IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^ 


// 


^/ 


^ 


.^*% 


A 


J 


K. 


^ 


^. 


li 

11.25 


^1^  U^ 


u 


140 


—    6" 


|22 

I 


2.0 


U   11.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


s. 


'A^ 


iV 


<v 


<^ 


[V 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  •72-4503 


^■^ 

^V' 


"^ 


"•b^ 


o 


4> 


^ 


^. 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/iCrVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiquos 


Technical  and  Bibliofiraphic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibiiographiques 


The 
toth 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checited  below. 


n 
n 

n 
n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommag^e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  peiliculie 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g6ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  blacic)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pns  6t6  fiimdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  it6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  d6tails 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  fiimage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 


v/ 


\/ 


D 
D 


The 
posa 
of  ti^ 
filmi 


Orig 
begi 
the  I 
sion, 
othe 
first 
sion, 
or  ill 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcoiordes,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in^gale  de  I'impression 

I     I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film6es  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


The 
shall 
TINl 
whiz 

Map 
diffe 
entir 
begii 
right 
requ 
metl 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous 

10X                            14X                            18X                            22X 

26X 

90X 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

r                             ■           - 

The  copy  filmed  here  hae  been  reproduced  thanks 

L'exemplaire  filmA  f ut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 

to  the  generoaity  of: 

ginArositA  de: 

re 

Library  of  the  Pubiic 

La  bibliothdque  des  Archives 

i6tail8 
88  du 

Archives  of  Canada 

publiques  du  Canada 

modifier 
er  une 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quaiity 

Las  images  suivantes  ont  it^  reproduites  avec  le 

Filmage 

possibie  considering  the  condition  and  iegibiiity 

plus  grand  soin.  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 

of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 

de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  film«,  et  en 

filming  contract  specifications. 

conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  film^s  en  commenyant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  fiimis  en  commengant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comportb  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  uno  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaTtra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmte  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  11  est  filmi  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


;        t  , 

2 

3 

32X 


j    t 

2 

3 

4 

• 

6 

#•' 


(■ 


/"    \ 


■♦=. 


( 


l 


VALUABLE    WORKS 

PVBUSHKD  BY 

^  A  J.  HARPER,  No.  82  OLIFF-STREET,  NEW-YORK. 


A  DICTIONARY  OF  THE  HOLY  BIBLE  ;   containing 

an  Hiatorical  and  Geographical  Account  of  the  Penonc  and  Places ;  a  literal,  crit- 
ical, and  syatematical  Description  of  other  Objects,  whether  natural,  artificial,  eiidl, 
religious,  or  militaiy ;  and  an  Explanation  of  the  AppellRtive  Terms  mentioned  in 
the  Old  and  New  Testaments.  By  the  Rev.  JOHN  BROWN.  From  the  last 
Edinburgh  Edition.    To  which  is  prefixed  a  Biographical  Sketch  of  the  Author,  Sec 

EVIDENCE  OF  THE  TRUTH  OF  THE  CHRISTIAN 

RELIGION,  derived  from  the  literal  Fulfihnent  of  PROPHECY;  particulariy 
illustrated  by  the  History  of  the  Jews,  and  by  the  DiscoTeries  of  recent  Travellers. 
By  the  Rev.  ALEXANDER  KEITH.     ISmo.    From  the  sixth  Edinburgh  Edition. 

SERMONS  ON  SEVERAL  OCCASIONS.    By  the  Rev. 

JOHN  WESLEY,  M.A.,  sometime  Fellow  of  Lincohi  College,  Oxford.  From 
the  last  London  Edition.  Containing  a  number  of  Sermons  never  before  published 
an  this  Country.    8  vols.  Svo. 

THE  MISCELLANEOUS  WORKS  op  the  Rev.  JOHN 

WESLEY.  Containing  a  Plain  Account  of  Christian  Perfection ;  the  Appeals  to 
Men  of  Reason  and  Relipon ;  Principles  of  the  Methodists ;  Letters,  «c  Ja 
3  vols.  Svo. 

THE  WORKS  OF  THE  REV.  ROBERT  HALL.    Com- 

flete.     With  a  brief  Memoir  and  a  Sketch  of  his  literary  Character,  by  the  Right 
[on.  Sir  James  Mackintosh,  LL.D.,  M.P.    And  a  Sketch  of  his  Character  as  a 
Theologian  and  a  Preacher,  by  the  Rev.  John  Fonter.     In  3  vols.  Svo. 

A  CONCORDANCE  to  the  Holy  Scriptures  of  the  Old  and 

New  Testaments.    By  the  Rev.  JOHN  BROWN,  of  Haddington.    82mo. 

PRESENT  STATE  OF  CHRISTIANITY,  and  of  the  Mis- 

sionary  Establishments  for  its  Propagation  in  all  Parts  of  the  Worid.  Edited  by 
FREDERIC  3H0BERL.     ISmo. 

THE   HISTORY  OF  THE  JEWS.     From  the  earliest 

Period  to'the  present  Time.  By  Rev.  H.  H.  MILMAN.  In  3  vols.  ISmo.  [With 
Maps  and  Woodcuts.] 

THE  LIFE  OF  MOHAMMED,  Founder  of  the  Religion  of 

Islam,  and  of  the  Empire  o'the  Saracens.  By  the  Rev.  GEORGE  BUSH,  A.M. 
{With  a  Plan  of  the  Temple  of  Mecca.]     ISmo. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  BIBLE.     By  the  Rev.  G.  R. 

GLEIG,  M.A.,  M.R.S.D.,  &c.  dec  In  2  vols.  ISmo.  [With  Maps  of  Palestine 
and  the  Travels  of  St.  Paul.] 

VIEW  OF  ANCIENT  AND  MODEN  EGYPT ;  with  an 

Outline  of  its  Natural  History.  By  Rev.  M.  RUSSELL,  LL.D.  With  En- 
gravings.    ISmo. 

PALESTINE ;  or,  THE  HOLY  LAND.    From  the  earliest 

Period  to  the  present  Time.  By  Rev.  M.  RUSSELL,  LL.D.  ISmo.  [With  a 
Map  and  wood  Engravings.] 

-  1*^ 


/ 


t 


I 

f 


By  JAMES  EMER- 


8  WORKS   PVBU8HED   BY   J.    it    J.   HARPER. 

THE  BOOK  OF  NATURE.  By  JOHN  MASON  GOOD, 

M.D.,  F.R.S.,  F.R.S.L.,  Mem.  Am.  Phil.  Soc.  and  F.R.S.  of  Philadelphia.  From 
the  laat  London  Edition.  To  which  it  now  prefixed,  A  Sketch  of  ue  Author*! 
Life.    8vo.        < 

THE  LIFE  OF  SIR  ISAAC  NEWTON.    By  DAVID 

BREWSTER,  LL.D.     With  a  Portrait.     18mo. 

THE  HISTORY  OF   CHIVALRY   AND   THE  CRU- 

SAOES.    By  O.  P.  R.  JAMES,  Esq.     18mo.    [With  a  Plate.] 

THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  INSECTS.  [Withnume- 

rous  Woodcute.]     18mo. 

ENGLISH  SYNONYMES,  with  copious  Illustrations  and 

Explanations,  drawn  from  the  best  Writers.  A  new  Edition,  enlarged.  By 
GEORGE  CRABB,  M.A.  Author  of  the  Universal  Technological  ISctionary, 
and  the  Universal  Historical  Dictionary.    8vo. 

LETTERS  FROM  THE  iEGEAN. 

SON,  Esq.    8vo. 

DOMESTIC  DUTIES  ;  or,  Instructions  to  Youn^  Married 

Ladies,  on  the  Manavement  of  their  Households,  and  the  Regulation  of  their 
Conduct  in  the  vo  nous  Relations  and  Duties  of  Married  Life.  By  Mrs.  WILLL^M 
PARKES.     [Ttiird  Edition.]    12mo. 

THE  HISTORICAL  WORKS  OF  THE  REV.  WILLIAM 

ROBERTSON,  D.D.  Complete  Edition.  Including  his  History  of  AMERICA ; 
CHARLES  V.  i  SCOTLAND,  INDIA,  &.c.    In  3  vols.  8vo.     [With  Plates,  Ac] 

FAMILY  LIBRARY.    Of  this  work,  which  is  intended  to 

combine  the  two  objects  of  instruction  and  amusement,  comprising  as  much  enter- 
taining matter  as  can  be  given  along  with  useful  knowledge,  several  volumes  are 
already  published. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  MODERN  EUROPE ;  with  a  View 

of  the  Progress  of  Society  from  the  Rise  of  the  modem  Kingdoms  to  the  Peace  of 
Paris,  in  1763.  By  WILLIAM  RUSSELL,  LL.D.  And  a  Continuation  of  the 
History  to  the  present  Time.  By  WILLIAM  JONES,  Esq.  With  Annotations 
by  an  American.     In  3  vols.  8vo.     [With  Portraits.] 

THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  DECLINE  AND  FALL  OF 

THE  ROMAN  EMPIRE.  By  EDWARD  GIBBON,  Esq.  Fiah  American 
from  the  last  London  Edition.  In  4  vols.  8vo.  [With  a  Portrait  of  the  Author, 
and  Maps.] 

LETTERS  ON  DEMONOLOGY  AND  WITCHCRAFT. 

Addressed  to  J.  G.  LOCKHART,  Esq.  By  Sir  WALTER  SCOTT,  Bart 
[With  a  copperplate  Engraving.]     18roo. 

XENOPHON.    The  ANABASIS,  translated  bv  EDWARD 

SPELMAN,  Esq.  The  CYROP^DIA,  translated  by  the  'Hon.  ASHLEY 
COOPER.     In  2  vols.  18mo.     [Portrait.] 

SALLUST.    Translated  by  WM.  ROSE,  M.A.    With  Im- 

provements  and  Notes.     [Portrait.]     18mo. 

THE  ORATIONS  OF  DEMOSTHENES.    Translated  by 

THOMAS  LELAND,  D.D.    In  2  vols.  18mo.     [Portrait.] 


.* 


i 


ADVENTURES   *  :\ 


«* 

K 


ON   TBI 


COLUMBIA   RIVER, 


i    '*    *• 


•-? 


INCLVDINQ 


'f;      .       -•  THE  NARRATIVE  OF  A  RESIDENCE  '^_ 

OF    SIX    YEARS    ON   THE    WESTERN    SIDE    OP 


»■¥ 


■*■  <t^ 


:he  rocky  mountains, 


AMONG 


•'Jbff 


VARIOUS  tribes  OF   INDIANS 


*  f 


HITHERTO  UNKNOWN! 


f 


TOOKTHBR    WITH 


A  JOURNEY  ACROSS  THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT. 


BY    ROSS    COX. 


NEW-YORK: 

PRINTED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY  J.  *  J.  HARPER,  82  CLIFF-STREET. 
AND   •OI.B  BT  TH*   PRINCIPAL   BOOXSULBBS  TKBOffeHOWT  THB   VNITBB   STATB*. 


1832. 


.% 


^' 


• 


y-   •-^^ 


■%r-*<S(|> 


^- 


«-.«"•- 


•  r 


«?*■ 


7- 
•  \ 


m 


t  -' 


'■*- 


PAAP 


/r^2 

■*»   J* '7. 


1     !       ! 


** 


i  U 


■  *. 


M 


.'iirfcr. 


^J^i£L. 


^Of9S- 


_,.,v..  _^_^4^QjnJ-' 


I  / 


-  .#. 


V  jv»  fej: 


•    -% 


P  R  E  F  A  C  E. 


•< 


•»• 


The  following  Narrative  embraces  a  period  of  h\x  years,  five  of 
which  were  spent  among  various  tribes  on  the  banks  of  the 
Columbia  River  and  its  tributary  streams ;  and  the  remaining 
portion  was  occupied  in  the  voyage  outwards,  and  the  journey 
across  the  continent. 

'  During  this  period  the  author  ascended  the  Columbia  nine 
times,  and  descended  it  eight ;  wintered  among  various  tribes ; 
was  engaged  in  several  encounters  with  the  Indians;  was  lost 
fourteen  days  in  a  wilderness,  and  had  many  other  extraordinary 
esca^s.  ;.- 

He  kept  journals  of  the  principal  events  which  occurred  during 
the  greater  part  of  this  period,  the  substance  of  which  will  be 
found  imbodied  in  the  following  pages.  Those  who  love  to  read 
of  "  battle,  riiurder,  and  sudden  death,"  will,  in  his  description  of 
the  dangers  and  privations  to  which  the  life  of  an  Indian  trader  is 
subject,  find  much  to  gratify  their  taste ;  while  to  such  as  are  fond 
of  nature,  in  its  rudest  and  most  savage  forms,  he  trusts  his  sketches 
of  the  wild  and  wandering  tribes  of  Western  America  may  not 
be  found  uninteresting. 

They  cannot  lay  claim  to  the  beautiful  colouring  which  the  roman- 
tic pen  of  a  Chateaubriand  has  imparted  to  his  picture  of  Indian 
manners ;  for  the  author,  unfortunately,  did  not  meet  with  any 
tribe  which  approached  that  celebrated  writer's  splendid  descrip- 
ti(m  of  savage  life.    He  has  seen  many  of  them  before  the  con- 


VI 


PREFACE. 


tamination  of  white  men  could  have  deteriorated  their  native 
character ;  and,  while  he  records  with  pleasure  the  virtues  and 
braveiy  of  some,  truth  compels  him  to  give  a  different  character 
to  the  majority. 

The  press  has  of  late  years  teemed  with  various  '*  Recollec- 
tions," "  Reminiscences,"  &c.  of  travels,  scenes,  and  adventures 
in  well-knoum  countries ;  but  no  account  has  been  yet  published  of 
a  great  portion  of  the  remote  regions  alluded  to  in  this  work. 
They  are  therefore  new  to  the  world ;  and,  if  the  author's  unpre- 
tending narrative  possesses  no  other  claim  to  the  public  favour,  it 
cannot  at  least  be  denied  that  of  novelty. 


.J^->  ..^ 


"^ 


? 


^V'  ^'^  *' 


■tr-  - .     .  .   I 


■  <"■     i       .1 :'  •■ 


*. 

i 


:^ 


itt^ 


r  .,     }    fy.    . 


INTRODUCTION. 


In  the  year  1870  a  charter  was  granted  by  Charlea  the  Sec- 
ond to  the  HudHon's-Bay  Company,  whose  first  governor  was 
Prince  Rupert,  by  which  the  Company  was  allowed  the  exclu> 
sive  privilege  of  establishing  trading  factories  on  the  shores  of 
that  noble  bay  and  its  tributary  rivers.  Owing  to  this  charter, 
the  fur-trade,  which  forms  an  important  and  extensive  branch  of 
American  commerce,  was  for  a  long  period  monopolized  by  the 
Company ;  but,  from  the  peculiar  nature  of  its  constitution,  little 
progress  was  made  by  its  officers  in  extending  its  trading  posts, 
or  exploring  the  interior,  until  the  year  1770,  when  Mr.  Heame 
was  sent  on  an  expedition  to  the  Arctic  Sea,  for  an  account  of 
which  I  beg  to  refer  the  render  to  that  gentleman's  simple  and 
interesting  narative. 

While  Canada  belonged  to  France  the  Canadian  traders  had 
advanced  many  hundred  miles  beyond  lioke  Superior,  and  es- 
tablished several  trading  posts  in  the  heart  of  the  country,  some 
of  which  thevoyageurs  still  call  by  their  original  names  ;  such  as 
Fort  Dauphin,  Fort  Bourbon,  and  others. 

The  conquest  of  that  province  opened  a  new  source  of  trade 
to  British  enterprise ;  and  while  the  officers  of  the  Hudson's* 
Bay  Company  fancied  their  charter  had  secured  them  in  the 
undisturbed  possession  of  their  monopoly,  an  active  and  enter- 
prising rival  was  gradually  encroaching  on  their  territories,  and 
imperceptibly  undermining  their  influence  with  the  Indians ;  I 
allude  to  the  North-West  Fur  Company  of  Canada,  which  ori- 
ginally consisted  of  a  few  private  traders,  but  subsequently  be- 
came the  first  commercial  establishment  in  British  America. 

It  is  not  here  necessary  to  enter  into  a  detail  of  the  forhiation 
and  increase  of  this  Company.  Its  first  members  were  British 
and  Canadian  merchants ;  among  whom  Messrs.  Rocheblave, 
Frobisher,  Fraser,  M'Tavish,  Mackenzie,  and  M'Gillivray  were 
the  most  prominent.  Their  clerks  were  chiefly  younger  branches 
of  respectable  Scottish  families,  who  entered  the  service  as  ap- 
prentices for  seven  years ;  for  which  period  they  were  allowed 
one  hundred  pounds,  and  suitable  clothing.  At  the  expiration 
of  their  apprenticeship  they  were  placed  on  yearly  salaries,  va- 
rying from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds,  and  accord- 
ing to  their  talents  were  ultimately  provided  for  as  partners ; 


'* 


,-*■*■ 


^, 


V 


VIII 


INTRODUCTION. 


lome,  perhaps  in  a  vear  or  two  after  the  termination  of  their 
cngagemcntH ;  while  others  remained  ten,  twelve,  or  sixteen 
years  in  a  state  of  probation. 

This  system,  by  creating  an  identity  of  interest,  produced  a 
spirit  of  emulation  nmonu  the  clerks  admirably  calculated  to 
promote  the  general  cood;  for,  as  each  individual  was  led  to 
expect  that  the  period  for  his  election  to  the  proprietary  depended 
on  his  own  exertions,  every  nerve  was  strained  to  attain  the 
lonff-desired  object  of  his  wishes. 

Courage  was  an  indispcn^nblc  quiilification,  not  merely  for 
the  casual  encounters  with  the  Indians,  but  to  intimidate  any 
competitor  in  trade  with  whom  he  might  happen  to  come  in 
collision.  Success  was  looked  upon  us  the  great  criterion  of  a 
trader's  cleverness ;  and  provided  he  obtained  for  his  outfit  of 
merchandise  what  was  considered  a  good  /cturn  of  furs,  the 
partners  never  stopped  to  inquire  about  the  means  by  which  they 
were  acquired. 

The  Hudson's-Biiy  Company,  on  the  contrary,  presented  no 
such  inducements  to  extra  exertion  on  tlie  part  of  its  ofHcers. 
Each  individual  had  a  fixed  salary,  without  any  prospect  of  be- 
coming a  proprietor;  ond  some  of  them,  whose  courage  was 
undouDted,  when  challenged  to  single  combat  by  a  North-Wester, 
refused ;  alleging  as  a  reason,  that  they  were  engaged  to  trade 
for  furs,  and  not  to  fight  with  fellow-subjects. 

Independently  of  the  foregoing  circumstances,  the  North- 
West  Company  in  the  selection  of  its  canoe-men,  or,  as  they  ore 
called,  engages,  had  another  great  advantage  over  its  chartered 
rivol.  These  men  were  French  Canadians,  remarkable  for 
obedience  to  their  superiors ;  and  whose  skill  in  managing  ca- 
noes, capability  of  enduring  hardships,  and  facility  of  adapting 
themselves  to  the  habits  and  peculiarities  of  the  various  tribes, 
rendered  them  infinitely  more  popular  in  the  eyes  of  Indians 
than  the  stubborn,  unbending,  matter-of-fact  Orkney  men,  into 
whose  ideas  a  work  of  supererogation  never  entered.* 

The  diminished  amount  of  their  imports,  joined  to  the  in- 
creased demand  of  goods  from  their  factories,  at  length  opened 
the  eyes  of  the  Hudson's-Bay  directors  to  the  success  of^  their 
formidable  opponents,  and  induced  them  to  attempt,  when  too 
late,  to  arrest  their  career.  By  their  charter  they  now  laid  claim 
to  the  exclusive  privilege  of  trading,  not  merely  on  the  Missis- 
sippi River  and  its  various  branches,  but  also  on  the  Saskacha- 
wan.  Red  River,  and  all  the  other  streams  which  empty  them- 
selves into  the  great  Lake  Winepic,  the  waters  of  which  are 
carried  to  Hudson's-Bay  by  the  rivers  Nelson  and  Severn. 

*  The  chief  part  of  the  boatmen,  and  several  of  the  officert  of  the  Hudson's- 
Bay  Company  were,  formerly,  natives  of  tlie  Orkney  Islands.         -^   -,■  «-.a^ 


m 


l 


■*1 


3 

X 


».  : 


.-u»*- 


INTRODUCTION.  B 

This  territorial  claim,  unsupported  by  any  physical  power,  had 
but  little  weight  with  their  pertievuring  rivals.  They  were  far 
beyond  the  reach  of  magisterial  authority ;  and  an  injunc- 
tion could  not  be  easily  served,  nor  obedience  to  it  enforced  in 
a  country  (iilcen  hundred  or  two  thousand  miles  beyond  the  lim- 
its of  any  recognised  jurisdiction. 

After  establishing  opposition  trading  |)08ts  adjoining  the  differ- 
ent factories  of  the  Hudson's-Bay  Company  in  the  interior,  the  in- 
defatigable North-Westcrs  contmucd  their  projo^ss  to  the  north- 
ward and  westward,  and  ibrtncd  numerous  trading  establishments 
at  Athabasca,  Peace  River,  Great  and  Lesser  Slave  I^kes,  Nevr 
Caledonia,  the  Columbia,  dec. ;  to  none  of  which  places  did  the 
officers  of  the  IIudson's-Bay  attempt  to  follow  them.  By  theae 
means  the  North- West  Company  became  undisputed  masters  of 
the  interior.  Their  influence  with  the  natives  was  all-powerful ; 
and  no  single  trader,  without  incurring  imminent  danger  from 
the  Indians,  or  encountering  the  risk  ofstarvation,  could  attempt 
to  penetrate  into  their  territories. 

A  few  independent  individuals,  unconnected  with  either  com- 
pany, the  chief  of  whom  w^  <«  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor,  a  wealthy 
merchant  of  New- York,  still  carried  on  a  fluctuating  trade  with 
the  Indians,  whose  lands  border  Canada  and  the  United  States ; 
but  their  competition  proved  injurious  to  themselves,  as  prices 
far  above  their  value  were  frequently  given  to  the  natives  for 
their  furs. 

With  the  interior  thus  inaccessible,  and  the  confines  not  worth 
disputing,  Mr.  Astor  turned  his  thoughts  to  the  opposite  side  of 
the  American  continent ;  and  accordingly  made  proposals  to  the 
North- West  Company  to  join  with  him  in  forming  an  establish- 
ment on  the  Columbia  River.  This  proposition  was  submitted 
to  the  consideration  of  a  general  meeting  of  the  wintering  pro- 
prietors ;  and,  after  some  negotiations  as  to  the  details,  rejected. 

Mr.  Astor  tlierefore  determined  to  make  the  attempt  without 
their  co-operation ;  and  in  the  winter  of  1809,  he  succeeded  in 
forming  an  association  called  the  "  Pacific  Fur  Company,"  of 
which  he  himself  was  the  chief  proprietor.  As  able  and  expe- 
rienced traders  were  necessary  to  ensure  success,  he  induced 
several  of  the  gentlemen  connected  with  the  North- West  Com- 
pany to  quit  that  establishment  and  join  in  his  speculation. 
Among  these  was  Mr.  Alexander  M'Kay,  an  old  partner,  who 
had  accompanied  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  his  perilous  jour- 
ney across  the  continent  to  the  Paci6c  Ocean. 

It  was  intended  in  the  first  instance  to  form  a  trading  establish- 
ment at  the  entrance  of  the  Columbia,  and  as  many  more  subse- 
ouently  on  its  tributary  streams  as  the  nature  and  productions  of 
the  country  would  admit.    It  was  also  arranged  that  a  vessel 


r  i-'i 


•   ■'^>~..K.^    • 


.tmmim 


'<mm^ 


WPWI 


T 


:'*^- 


ihtrodvction. 


laden  with  goods  for  the  Indian  trade  should  sail  every  year 
from  New- York  to  the  Columbia,  and  ader  dischargins  her  cargo 
at  tl^  establishment,  take  on  board  the  produce  of  the  year's 
trade,  and  thence  proceed  to  Canton,  which  is  a  ready  market 
for  furs  of  every  description.  On  disposing  of  her  stock  of 
peltries  at  the  latter  place,  she  was  to  return  to  New- York 
vested  with  the  productions  of  China. 

Ilie  first  vessel  fitted  out  by  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  was 
the  Tonquin,  commanded  by  Captain  Jonathan  Thome,  formerly 
a  lieutenant  in  the  service  of  the  United  States.  She  sailed 
fh>m  New-York  in  the  autumn  of  1810,  and  had  on  board  four 
partners,  nine  clerks,  with  a  number  of  mechanics  and  voyageurSf 
with  a  large  and  well  assorted  cargo  for  the  Indian  and  Chinese 
trades.  Much  about  the  same  period  a  party  under  the  com- 
mand of  Messrs.  W.  P.  Hunt,  and  Donald  Mackenzie,  left  Saint 
Louis  on  the  Missouri,  with  the  intention  of^roceeding  as  nearly 
as  possible  by  Lewis  and  Clarke's  route  across  the  continent  to 
th&  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  This  party  consisted,  besides  the 
above  gentlemen,  who  were  partners,  of  three  clerks,  and 
upwards  of  seventy  men. 

The  following  year,  1811,  another  vessel,  the  Beaver,  of  four 
hundred  and  eighty  tons,  commanded  by  Captain  Cornelius 
Sowles,  sailed  for  the  Columbia.  She  had  on  board  one  part- 
ner, SIX  clerks,  and  h  number  of  artisans  and  voyageurs,  with  a 
plentifiil  supply  of  every  thing  that  could  contribute  to  the  com- 
fort of  the  crew  and  passengers. 

The  exaggerated  reports  then  in  circulation  relative  to  the 
wealth  to  be  obtained  in  the  Columbia,  induced  merchants  of 
the  first  respectability  to  solicit  for  their  sons  appointments  in 
the  new  Company  ;  and  many  of  their  applications  were  unsuc- 
cessful. The  author,  who  was  at  this  penod  in  New- York,  cap- 
tivated with  the  love  of  novelty,  and  the  hope  of  speedily  realizing 
an  independence  in  the  supposed  El  Dorada,  exerted  all  his 
influence  to  obtain  a  clerkship  in  the  Company.  He  succeeded^ 
and  was  one  of  those  who  embarked  on  board  the  Beaver^ 

With  what  success  his  golden  anticipations  were  crowned, 
together  with  all  his  "  travels'  history,"  will  be  amply  detailed 
in  the  foUpwing  Narrative. 


^•#- 


.f,9i 


M 


'-'t 
i 


tss4t 


i*J  ^^--    ..  i'^:*iK 


■1»*'«'*y  *?•>■> 


:«: 


•'-f«My»-^ 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I.  '  •. 

Singularly  luminous  appearance  of  the  ocean — The  Equator — Ma- 
gellanic Clouds — Falkland  islands — Storm,  and  loss  of  two  men — 
Cape  Horn — Dreadful  storm — Islands  of  Juan  Fernandez  and  Massa- 
fuero — Trade  Winds  in  the  Pacific — A  shark — Arrival  at  Sandwich 
Islands 35 


.-.  .      CHAPTER  H.      . 

Whoahoo — Visit  from  a  chief — Nocturnal  excursion — King  and 
queens — Invasion  of  the  ship — White  men — Gardens — Foot  ra'ie,  and 
fiummanr  justice — Throwing  the  spear — Royal  residence,  and  iwdy 
guard — Mourning  for  a  chiefs  wife — Billy  Pitt,  George  Washing- 
ton, &c.  .       .  34 


CHAPTER  III. 

Tamaamah — The  Eooranee — Curious  custom — Fickleness  in  dress 
— Character  of  natives — Important  position  of  the  islands — Cow  hunt- 
ing— Complete  our  supplies — Take  a  number  of  natives — Departure — 
New  Discovery — Arrival  at  the  Columbia 4S 


re  unsuc- 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Account  of  the  Tonquin — Loss  of  her  chief  mate,  seven  men,  and 
two  boats — Extraordinary  escape  of  Weekes — Erection  of  Astoria — 
Mr.  Thompson  of  the  N.  W.  Company — Arrival  of  Messrs.  Hunt  and 
Mackenzie,  and  sketch  of  their  journey  over-land         .       .        .54 


■■-mr-  CHAPTER  V. 

Particulars  of  the  destruction  of  the  Tonquin  and  crew — Indians 
attack  a  party  ascending  the  river — Description  cf  fort,  natives,  and 
the  country 63 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Departure  from  Astoria — Description  of  our  party,  lading,  &c.— Ap- 
pearance of  river  and  islands — Fleas  and  mosquitoes — First  rapids, 
dangerous  accident— Indian  cemetery— Ugly  Indians— Gibraltar— Cap* 


-^■11^- 


■■i-V#?l 


MUftpmu .  inm-^mmimi 


III «*iii  I 


Ztt 


CONTENTS. 


.\       •■■ 


Horn — The  narrows  and  falls — Change  in  the  appearance  of  the  coun- 
try— Attempt  at  robbery — Mounted  Indians   .        .        ...        .79 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

Party  commence  eating  horses — Remarkable  escape  from  a  rattle- 
snake— Kill  numbers  of  them — Arrive  among  the  Wallah  Wallah  tribe 
— Description  of  the  (lountry — The  Pierced-nose  Indians — Author's 

farty  proceeds  up  Lewis  River — Purchase  horses  for  land-travelling — 
•rickly  pears — Awkward  accident — Leave  the  canoes,  and  journey 
inlaad 81 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Author  loses  the  party — Curious  adventures,  and  surprising  escapes 
from  serpents  and  wild  beasts  during  fourteen  days  in  a  wilderness — 
Meets  with  Indians,  by  whom  he  is  hospitably  received  and  conducted 
to  his  friends 88 


CHAPTER  IX.  ...... 

Remarkable  case  of  Mr.  Pritchard,  who  was  thirty-five  days  lost — 
Siiiiation  of  Spokan  House — Journey  to  the  Flat-head  lands,  and  de- 
cription  of  that  tribe — Return  to  Spokan  House — Christmas-day — Horse 
eating — Spokan  peculiarities — Articles  of  trade — A  duel        .        .    99 


-  ■(.:. 


CHAPTER  X. 


Execution  of  an  Indian  for  robbery — War  between  Great  Britain  and 
the  VJnited  States — Dissolution  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company — Author 
joins  the  North- West  Company,  and  proceeds  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains— Meets  a  party,  and  returns  lo  the  sea — Robbery  of  goods,  and 
succesi^ful  stratagem  to  recover  the  property — Attack' at  night — Dog- 
eating^'Author  and  three  men  pursued  by  Indians — Narrow  escape  106 


i  fe 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Author  proceeds  to  Oakinagan,  and  thence  to  the  Flat-heads,  where 
he  passes  the  winter — Cruel  treatment  of  the  Black-feet  prisoners  by 
the  Flat-heads — Horrible  Spectacle — Buffalo  the  cause  of  war  between 
the  two  tribes — Women — Government — Peace  and  war  chiefs — Wolves 
—Anecdote  of  a  dog — Syrup  of  birch — Surgical  and  medical  know- 
ledge of  the  Flat-heads — Remarkable  cure  of  rheumatism — Thsir  ideas 
of  a  future  state,  and  curious  tradition  respecting  the  beavers — Name 
of  Flat-head  a  misnomer — A  marriage 117 


CHAPTER  XII. 

'    EfTect  of  snow  on  the  eyes->-Description  of  a  winter  at  Oakinagan 
—News  from  the  sea— Capture  of  Astoria  by  the  Racoon  sloop  of  war 


■  -   -..^.-.nw..;^....--— .^^    .,1,^^ 


CONTENTS. 


XUI 


— Offer  of  Chinooks  to  cut  off  the  British — A  party  attacked;  Mr. 
Stewart  wounded;  two  Indians  killed — ^Arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt — Ship- 
wreck of  the  Lark — Massacre  of  Mr.  Read  and  eight  of  his  men — Ex- 
traordinary escape  of  Dorrieu's  widow  and  children    .       .       .129 

CHAPTER  Xm. 

Arrival  of  the  Isaac  Tod — Miss  Jane  Barnes,  a  white  woman — Mur- 
der of  one  of  our  men  by  Indians — Trial  and  execution  of  the  mur- 
derers— DeathofMr.  Donald  M'Tavish  and  five  men    .        .        .139 

u  CHAPTER  XIV. 

Sketch  of  the  Indians  about  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia — Process  of 
flattening  the  head — Thievish  disposition — Treatment  of  their  slaves 
— Suggestions  to  the  missionary  societies — Dreadful  ravages  of  the 
smadl-pox — Jack  Ramsay — Their  ideas  of  religion — Curious  super> 
stition — Marriage  ceremonies — Anecdote — Aversion  to  ardent  spirits — 
Government — War — Arms  and  armour — Canoes  and  houses — System 
of  cooking — Utensils — Gambling — Haiqua — Quack  doctors— Mode  of 
burial  146 


«t. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Voyage  to  the  interior — Party  attacked,  and  one  man  killed — Arrive 
at  Spokan  House — Joy  of  the  Indians  at  our  return — The  chiefs  speech 
— Sketch  of  Mr.  M'Donald — Duel  prevented  between  him  and  a  chief- 
Kettle  Indians  ;  their  surprise  at  seeing  white  icen — Curious  account 
of  an  hermaphrodite  chief— Death  of  Jacques  Hoole    .        .        .160 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


•-  Vtt .,  (^'  • 


The  party  attacked  by  the  natives  at  the  Wailah  Wallah  River — Two 
killed — Encamp  on  an  island  for  safety — Indians  demand  two  white 
men  as  a  sacrifice — Arrival  of  a  chieftain — His  speech,  and  peace  re- 
stored   173 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


iJmt, 


Author  and  party  lost  in  a  snow-storm — Curious  instance  of  mental 
abstraction — Poor  Ponto — Arrive  at  Spokan  House — A  marriage — 
Great  ravine — Agates — Hot-springs — Kitchen-garden — Indian  manner 
of  hunting  the  deer — Method  adopted  by  the  wolves  for  the  same  pur- 
pose— Horse-racing — Great  heat 183 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Letter  from  Mr.  Stewart — His  account  of  New  Caledonia — Naviga- 
tion of  the  Columbia  obstructed  by  ice — Miserable  situation  of  the  party 
during  the  winter — Author  frost-bitten— Amusements— Departure  of 


Si 


K 


*">'     '    WiHUPa^wi<*«jp|li|Ml^p««ppP!pwqp««M||M 


JIh 


CONTBNTI. 


Mr.  Keith — His  letters — Author  and  party  quit  their  winter  encamp- 
ment— Rapid  change  of  seasons— Arnve  at  Fort  George    .        .    193 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


m^ 


Author  placed  in  charge  of  Oakinagan — Erects  new  buildings  there 
—Mosquitoes — sagacity  of  the  horses — Rattlesnakes  good  food — Sar- 
saparilla — Black  snakes — Climate — Whirlwinds — Handsome  situation 
— Character  of  the  tribe — Manner  of  trading — Extraordinary  cures  of 
consumption 303 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Author  nearly  blinded  by  hawks — Foxes — Great  number  of  wolves 
— ^Their  method  of  attacking  horses — Lynxes — Bears — Anecdote  of  a 
kidnapping  bruin — Ingenious  plan  of  getting  off  bear-skins — Account  of 
the  horses  on  the  Columbia— Great  feat  performed  by  one  .    310 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


jitJ' 


Letter  fron^  the  proprietors — Author  winters  at  Oakinagan — Letter 
from  Mr.  Mackenzie — A  number  of  horses  stolen — Successful  plan  to 
recover  them — Description  of  soil,  climate,  productions,  &c.  of  the 
lowerpart  of  the  Columbia 218 


[\        i- 


,•     } 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Description  of  climate,  soil,  &c.  above  the  rapids — Sketch  of  va- 
rious tribes — the  Chohoptins — Yackamans — Oakinagans — Sinapoils — 
Spokans — Anecdote — Pointed-hearts — Cause  of  war^-Cootonais — Ket- 
tle Indians — I'amloops,  &c. 337 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Ascent  of  the  Columbia — Its  lakes — Dangerous  navigation — High  t 
water — Arrive  at  the  mountains — Melancholy  detail  of  the  death  of  six  - 
of  the  party 336 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Canoe  Valley  and  River — Appearance  of  Mountains — M'Gillivray's 
Rock — Dangerous  situation  of  party  on  a  raft — Arrive  at  Rocky  Moun- 
tain House — Volcanic  appearances — Animals,  &c. — Indian  tradition 
respecting  Mammoth — Difference  in  size  of  trees        .        .        .    346 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Descent  of  the  Athabasca  River — Party  disappointed  in  receiving 
provisions— Elk  River  and  Lake— Join  the  brigade  from  Lesser  Slave 


»TIIIU»fll»l 


conTKirn. 


xr 


Lake— Arrive  at  He  i  la  CrosRe — Dreadful  effects  of  the  opposition  be* 
tween  the  North-West  and  Hudson's-Bay  Companies — Sketch  of  Mr. 
Peter  Ogden 357 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

English  River — Pass  numerous  lakes  and  rapids — Arrive  at  Cumber* 
land  House — Sankachawaine  river — Lake  Winepic — Aurora  Borealis — 
River  Winepic — Meet  various  parties — Rainy  Lake  and  Fort — Death  of 
an  Indian 370 


CHAPTER  XXVn. 

Leave  Rainy  Lake — Messrs.  M'Gillivray  and  La  Rocque — Sketch  of 
Messrs.  Wentzel  and  M'Neill — Great  Falls  of  the  mountain — Descrip- 
tion of  Fort  William,  its  inhabitants,  &c .381 


CHAPTER  XXVIIl. 

Enter  Lake  Superior — St.  Mary's  Falls — Sketch  of  Mr.  Johnston— 
Lake  Huron — French  River — Lake  Nipising — Arriv^  a  the  Ottawa — 
A  back-woodsman — Chaudiere  Falls — Hull — Longue  Sault — Mr.  Grant 
— Laughable  mistake — Mr.  M'Donald  Le  Pretre — Mr.  M'Gilles — Sny- 
der's Tavern — Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains — La  Chine — Arrive  at  Mont- 
real  390 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Sketches  of  the  Canadian  Voyageurs — Anecdote  of  La  Libert^ — The 
Freemen,  or  Trappers — The  Half-breeds — Anecdote — Retired  Partners 
— Josephine — Frangaise — Amusing  Letter — Iroquois  Indians — Anec- 
dote       305 


4^' 


im 


i 


CONCLUSION. 


Coalition  of  the  two  Companies — New  Caledonia — Description  of 
the  Chilcotins,  Talkotins,  &c. — Soil,  produce,  lakes,  rivers,  animals,  cli- 
mate— Peculiarities  of  the  natives — Suicides — Cruelty  to  relatives — 
Horrible  treatment  of  prisoners — Sanguinary  quarrels — Extraordinary 
ceremonies  attending  the  dead — Barbarities  practised  on  widows,  &c. — 
Table  of  population 316 

Appenouc 333 


,jk^.m 


■Jjmtf 


■pPiWPWWWWPilWBIIP 


n 


'■!'   -f 


'/ 

r 

If: 
y 

1 

■\ 

1 

\ 

1     -^ 

nl* 


fi^ 


^' 


t 


^r»~     *      « 


^  '• 


% 


SIX  YEARS'  RESIDENCE 


OM 


THE  BANKS  OF 


THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER,  &c. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Singularly  luminous  appearance  of  tho  ocean — Tho  Equator — Magellanic 
clouda — Falkland  Islands — Storm,  and  loss  of  two  men — Cape  Horn — 
Dreadful  storm — Islands  of  Juan  Fernandez  and  Maasafuero — Trade-winds 
in  the  Pacific — A  shark — Arrival  at  Sandwich  Islands. 

On  Thursday  the  17th  of  October,  1811,  we  sailed  from  New- 
York,  with  a  gentle  breeze  from  thv  northward,  and  in  a  few 
hours  lost  sight  of  the  highlands  of  "  Never  Sink."  Our  cabin 
pas  .«engers  were,  Messrs.  (Marke,  Clapp,  Halsey,  Nicolls,  Seton, 
Ehui.tjpr, and  self;  with  Captain  Sowles,  and  Messrs.  Rhodes, 
Champenois,  and  Dean,  officers  of  the  ship. 

Nothing  particular  occurred  until  the  night  of  the  7th  of  No- 
vember, when  we  were  gratified  with  observing  the  ocean  as- 
sume that  fiery  appearance  mentioned  by  several  of  our  circum- 
navigators ;  to  account  for  which  has  not  a  little  perplexed  the 
most  erudite  inquirers  into  marine  phenomena.  During  our  pas- 
sage through  these  liquid  flames  we  had  what  sailors  term  a 
"  smacking  breeze"  of  eight  knots.  The  captain  declared  that 
he  had  never  witn'jssed  so  luminous  an  appearance  of  the  sea ; 
and  so  great  was  fhe  light  afforded  by  the  waves,  that  we  were 
thereby  enabled  to  peruse  books  of  a  moderate-sized  print ! 

On  the  follov  ing  day,  the  8tli,  we  made  the  Cape  de  Verds,  at 
which  place  it  was  the  captain's  intention  to  stop  for  a  day  or 
two ;  but  the  wind  being  favourable  he  relinquished  the  idea, 
and  kept  under  way.  We  had  fine  gales  and  pleasant  weather 
until  the  17th,  on  which  day  we  crossed  the  Equator,  in  longi- 
tude 30"  west,  with  a  light  northerly  breeze,  which  on  the  follow- 
ing day  subsided  into  a  dead  calm :  this  calm  continued  eight 
days,  during  which  period  we  did  not  advance  ten  miles. 

Vol.  I.— C 


fe.. 


'""'"■ilpflii 


89  FALKLAND   ISLANDS.       ^ 

On  the  26th  a  smart  breeze  sprang  up,  >vhich  drove  as  on 
nobly  at  the  rate  of  Irom  seven  to  ten  knots  an  liour.  The  '28th 
we  spoke  a  Portuguese  brig  bound  from  Rio  Grande  to  Pernam- 
buco.  The  captam  and  crew  of  this  vessel  were  all  negroes, 
the  lowest  of  whom  was  six  feet  high.  We  inquired  from  the 
sable  commander  what  was  his  longitude ;  but  he  could  not  give 
us  any  information  on  the  subject !  After  setting  this  unfortu- 
nate navigator  right,  we  pursued  our  course ;  and  the  wind  still 
continuing  fresh,  we  were  quickly  emancipated  from  the  scorch- 
ing influence  of  a  vertical  sun. 

On  the  10th  of  December,  in  latitude  39°,  we  spoke  the 
American  ship  Manilla,  Captain  M'Lean,  on  her  return  from  a 
whaling  voyage,  and  bound  to  Nantucket,  Rhode  Island.  The 
captain  came  on  board,  and  politely  waited  till  we  had  written 
a  few  letters,  of  which  he  took  charge.  A  few  days  after  this 
we  lost  sight  of  the  celebrated  Magellanic  clouds,  which  had 
been  visible  almost  from  the  time  we  crossed  the  Equator. 
That  these  nebulaj  should  be  so  immutable  in  their  form  and 
station,  has  been  a  source  of  no  trifling  perplexity  to  our  natu- 
ral philosophers.  As  so  much  ink  has  already  been  consumed 
in  speculations  respecting  these  phenomena,  and  such  various 
and  conflicting  opinions  elicited  from  the  most  learned  astrono- 
mers of  the  last  and  present  age,  I  conceive  it  would  be  pre- 
sumptuous in  me  to  offer  a  single  word  on  the  subject.  These 
clouds  are  white,  and  in  shape  nearly  resemble  an  equilateral 
triangle,  rounded  at  each  angular  point. 

On  the  2l8t  of  December,  at  5  a.  m.,  land  was  discovered  on 
our  weather-bow.  The  captain  pronounced  it  to  be  the  coast  of 
Patagonia;  and  acting  on  tliis  opinion,  we  kept  along-shore,  in 
order  to  pass  between  the  Falkland  Islands  and  the  mainland ;  but, 
strange  to  tell !  at  noon,  when  he  obtained  a  meridian  observa- 
tion, he  discovered  that  what  he  previously  conceived  to  be  the 
Patagonian  coast  was  in  reality  a  part  of  the  Falkland  Islands. 
To  account  for  this  mistake,  it  is  proper  to  mention,  that  during 
the  preceding  ten  days  the  haziness  of  the  weather  precluded 
the  possibility  of  our  obtaining  either  a  solar  or  lunar  observa- 
tion: we  therefore  were  compelled  to  sail  entirely  by  dead- 
reckoning.  To  this  may  be  added  the  effect  of  a  strong  west- 
erly current :  and  had  the  obscure  weather  continued  but  a  day 
longer,  the  consequences  might  have  proved  fatal. 

\s  the  wind  was  fair,  and  we  had  proceeded  so  far,  the  cap- 
tam abandoned  his  original  intention,  and  determined  to  sail  round 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  islands,  and  from  thence  to  shape 
his  course  for  Cape  Horn.  We  coasted  along  the  shore  until 
the  24th,  with  light  westerly  and  south-westerly  breezes. — 
Albatrosses,  penguins,  and  pintado  birds  were  very  numerous 


# 


A    STORM,   ANI>   LOSS   OF   TWO   MEN. 


around  the  ship.  We  shot  several,  and  took  others  >vlth  a 
hook  and  bait.  One  albatross  which  we  caught  in  this  manner 
received  but  httle  injury.  It  had  an  enormously  large  bill, 
measured  eleven  feet  from  wing  to  wing  when  exlcr.ded,  and 
kept  a  fierce  English  buli-dog  at  bay  for  half  an  hour. 

Although  the  Falkland  Islands  occupy  in  the  southern  hemi- 
sphere a  similar  degree  of  latitude  to  that  of  Ireland  in  the  north- 
ern, still  lliey  possess  none  of  the  characteristic  fertility  of  the 
"Emerald  Isle."  Of  grass,  pro|.erly  so  called,  there  is  none  in 
those  islands.  In  vegetable  and  animal  productions  they  are 
also  deficient ;  and  the  climate,  generally  speaking,  ia  cold,  va- 
riable, and  stormy  :  j  for  such  a  place  the  British  empire  was 
on  the  point  of  being  involved  in  a  war,  the  preparations  for 
which  cost  the  nation  some  millions  !* 

On  the  2 1th  we  took  leave  of  the  islands  with  a  gentle  breeze 
right  aft,  but  this  changed  ere  we  had  cleared  the  Sea-lion  rocks 
to  a  violent  head  gale.  All  the  lighter  sails  were  instantly  furled  ; 
in  the  hurry  of  doing  which,  the  gaskets  or  small  ropes  which 
bound  the  flying  jib  gave  way,  and  two  sailors  were  sent  out  to 
adjust  it.  While  they  were  in  the  act  of  performing  this  hazard- 
ous duty,  a  tremendous  wave  struck  the  forepart  of  the  ship,  car- 
ried away  the  jib-boom,  and  with  it  the  two  unfortunate  men  who 
were  securing  the  sail.  The  ship  was  immediately  hove  to,  and 
every  piece  of  timber,  empty  barrel,  or  hen-coop  on  deck  was 
thrown  over  to  afford  the  unfortunate  men  a  chance  of  escape. 
Unhappily,  all  our  efforts  were  unavailing ;  the  poor  fellows  re- 
mained in  sight  about  ten  minutes,  when  they  disappeared  amid 
the  raging  billows.  When  the  accident  occurred,  two  of  the 
ship's  company  jumped  into  the  jolly-boat,  and  with  all  the 
thoughtless  good-nature  of  sailors,  were  about  cutting  away  the 
lashings  to  go  to  the  assistance  of  their  ill-fated  messmates,  when 
the  captain  observing  them,  ordered  them  out  of  the  boat,  ex- 
claiming, "D — n  you,  have  you  a  mind  to  go  to  hell  also  ?" 

This  was  the  most  gloomy  Christmas-eve  I  ever  spent.  The 
above  melancholy  accident  had  thrown  a  cloud  over  every  coun- 
tenance ,  and  when  to  this  was  added  the  darkness  of  the  cabin 
(the  dead-lights  being  all  in),  with  the  loud  roaring  of  the  storm, 
and  the  Alpine  waves  threatening  every  instant  to  ingulf  us,  our 
situation  may  be  more  easily  imagined  than  described.  Home, 
with  all  its  mild  and  social  endearments  at  this  season  of  general 
festivity,  involuntarily  obtruded  itself  on  our  recollections.  The 
half-expressed  wish  of  being  once  more  on  terra  firma  was  un- 
consciously communicated  from  one  to  another.    But  when  we 


*:- 


*  It  may  be  remembered  that  our  ejection  from  these  islands  by  BuccarelH,  a 
Spanish  officer,  brought  the  celebrated  Samuel  Johnson  in  collision  with  Junius. 


CAPE   IIORIV. 


'■■4M 


looked  upon  the  wcathcr-bcatcn  fucc  of  our  veteran  captain,  and 
observed  the  careless,  if  not  contented  air  of  his  omccrs  and 
crew,  when  we  felt  that  they  wore  enduring  the  "  pchings  of  the 
pitiless  storm"  unmoved  and  wit^'  n  murmur ;  and  when  we 
reflected  on  the  immense  exp-^  f  ocean  through  which  we 
had  to  plough  our  way,  and  i.  *  iruitlcss  would  ba  the  indul- 
gence of  unmanly  apprehension, — "  to  the  wind  we  gave  our 
sighs,"  ascended  to  the  deck,  and  tendered  our  feeble  assistance 
to  the  captain. 

The  gale  continued  with  much  violence  utitil  the  29th  ;  when, 
at  two  p.  M.  we  made  Staten  I/and.  At  four  p.  m.  we  perceived 
the  "  snow-topped"  mountains  of  Terra  del  Fucgo,  rearing  their 
majestic  heads  above  the  clouds,  and  surveying  with  cold  indif- 
ference the  conflict  of  the  contending  oceans  that  on  all  sides 
surround  them.  As  we  approached  Capo  Horn  the  weather 
moderated,  and  the  captain  ordered  all  the  lighter  masts  and 
yards  again  to  be  rigged. 

January  1st,  ISl'i,  at  two  p.  m.,  on  this  day,  we  bade  adieu 
to  the  Atlantic,  and  sailed  round  the  long-dreaded  southern 
extremity  of  America,  with  a  gentle  breeze  from  the  N.N.W.  at 
the  rate  of  one  mile  per  hour,  and  under  top-gallant  studding- 
sails  ;  a  circumstance.  I  believe,  unparalleled  in  ti.e  history  of 
circumnavigation. 

Towards  evening  the  wind  died  away,  and 

Not  a  brooze  diaturb'd  tho  wido  aorene. 

Our  entrance  into  the  great  Pacific  was  marked  by  none  of 
those  terrible  concussions  of  the  "  vasty  deep,"  the  frequency  of 
•which  have  given  such  a  fearful  celebrity  to  Cape  Horn.  It 
seemed  as  if  the  two  mighty  oceans  had  ceased  for  a  p*^riod  their 
dreadful  warfare,  and  mingled  their  waters  in  the  blessed  calm 
of  peace.  On  our  right  rose  the  wild  inhospitable  shores  of 
Terra  del  Fuego ;  on  the  left  lay  the  low  desert  islands  of  Diego 
Ramarez ;  while  all  around  myriads  of  whales,  porpoises,  and 
other  marine  monsters,  emerging  at  intervals  from  the  deep,  and 
rolling  their  huge  bodies  over  the  placid  surface  of  the  surround- 
ingelement,  agreeably  diversified  the  scene. 

This  calm  was  of  short  duration.  On  the  following  day  the 
wind  shifted  once  more  ahead,  and  drove  us  as  far  as  61°  S.  be- 
fore we  cleared  Cape  Noire,  the  south-western  point  of  Terra  del 
Fuego.  During  this  period  v/e  had  a  succession  of  cold  boister- 
ous weather, and  occasionally  came  in  collision  with  large  masses 
of  floating  ice,  from  which  we  however  escaped  without  injury. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  mention  to  my  geographical  readers  that 
the  period  at  which  we  doubled  the  Cape  is  the  summer  season 
in  the  high  southern  latitudes;  and  if  such  be  its  attractions  in 


■(. 


DREADFUL   STORM. 


ury. 
that 


the  bulmy  season  of  the  year,  what  a  region  must  it  bo  on  tho 
arrival  of 

Barron  Winter,  witli  liin  nipping  culdi ! 

We  arc  informed  by  the  early  geo^rnphera  that  Terra  del 
Fuego  was  so  called  l'n)in  several  volcanoes  which  contrasted 
their  vivid  Humes  with  tiie  siirroimding  icy  wastes :  and  from 
the  same  authority  we  learn  that  I'utagonia,  which  i:^  on  tho 
opposite  side  of  the  Straits  of  Ma^'clliin,  was  inhabited  by  a 
race  of  people  of  inuncnsc  stature.  Modern  travellers,  however, 
have  obtained  a  more  correct  knowledge  of  that  country,  and 
have  reduced  the  wonderful  tdtitude  of  the  supposed  giants  to 
the  common  standard  of  humanity.  Young  trav  "jrs  should 
not  make  rashassertiony,  particularly  if  opposed  to  the  received 
opinions  of  the  world.  1  cannot  however  avoid  saying,  that  it 
is  my  belief  there  is  no  better  foundation  for  the  volcanoes  than 
there  was  for  the  accounts  of  the  giants.  For  several  days  that 
we  were  in  sight  of  this  sujjposcd  land  of  lire,  we  did  not  ob- 
serve the  smallest  apj)earance  of  smoke  ;  and  our  captain,  who 
had  made  many  voyages  round  Cape  Horn,  declared  he  had 
never  perceived  the  slightest  volcanic  ai)pearance  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood. 

On  the  12th  of  January,  the  wind  veered  in  our  favour,  and 
enabled  us  to  proceed  with  brisk  southerly  brr  ^zes  till  the  19th, 
on  which  day,  in  lat.  52",  long.  79"  W,  nearly  ab.  ast  of  tho  Straits 
of  Magellan,  we  encountered  a  most  dreadlul  gale  from  the  east- 
ward, which  lasted  eighteen  hours.  Our  ship  was  a  stout,  strong- 
built  vessel,  notwithstanding  which  she  sustained  considerable 
damage.  The  bulwarks  were  completely  washed  away;  the  head 
carried  off;  the  mainmast  and  bowsprit  sprung  ;  and  the  foresail, 
which  was  the  only  one  set,  was  blown  to  a  thousand  shivers.  We 
shipped  several  heavy  seas  in  the  cabin,  and  for  some  time  all  our 
trunks  were  floating.  The  violence  of  the  storm,  however,  mode- 
rated on  the  20th,  and  enabled  us  once  more  to  bring  the  vessel 
under  control:  had  it  continued  twelve  hours  longer,  we  should 
inevitably  have  been  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  iron-bound  shores  of 
Terra  del  Fuego ;  for,  at  the  period  the  hurricane  broke,  we  were 
not  twenty-five  leagues  from  shore ;  and  owing  to  the  unmanage- 
able state  of  the  vessel,  the  wind  was  driving  us  with  unopposed 
force  in  that  direction.  The  billows  made  sad  havoc  among  the 
remainder  of  our  live-stock.  The  sheep,  poultry,  and  most  of 
our  hogs  were  carried  away ;  and  a  few  only  of  the  last,  fortu- 
nately for  us,  escaped  drowning,  to  die  by  the  hands  of  the 
butcher. 

On  the  27th  a  young  man  named  Henry  Willetts,  who  had 
been  engaged  as  a  hunter  in  the  Company's  service,  died  of  the 


r 


t-     -1 


'  .'H 


MAssAFunno. 


( 
\ 


A- 


block  scurvy,  n  discnsc  wliich  it  is  supposed  he  lind  contracted 
previous  to  his  cinlxirkution,  us  iiootlifi-  person  on  l)oni°«i  had 
uny  flcorhiitic  iili'cction.  As  nitiny  of  my  reatl(  rs  niuy  not  liu 
aciiuaintcd  \vitli  the  moltuu'holy  cercniony  of  consigning  the 
body  of  u  fellow-hoing  to  tlic  deep,  1  sliiill  mention  it.  The  dc- 
coutiod  was  enveloped  in  his  hlimketH,  in  wliich  two  hirgc  pieces 
of  lead  were  sewed,  and  placed  immiuiiatcly  under  his  feet. 
The  body  was  then  laid  on  a  |)lan1i,  one  end  oi  which  rested  on 
the  railing;,  and  the  other  was  supported  ny  his  comrades,  the 
crew  and  passengers  forminj;  a  cu'cle  about  it.  The  beautiful 
and  sublime  l)urial  si;rvice  of  the  church  of  England  was  then 
r(;ad  in  un  nu«lil)!e  and  impressive  manner  by  Mr.  Nicolls,  who 
officiated  as  clioplain,  after  which  the  plank  was  raised,  the  body 
with  tiic  feet  downwanis  slidcd  gently  into  the  ocean,  and  in  a 
moment  we  lost  sij^lit  of  it  for  ever. 

On  the  4th  of  rebruary,  at  2  r.  M.,  wo  made  the  island  of 
Juan  Fernandez  ;  and  at  six,  that  of  Massafuero,  at  the  latter  of 
which  the  captain  determined  to  touch  for  a  supply  of  wood 
and  water.  It  was  on  the  former  island,  in  the  l)ejjjinning  of 
the  eighteenth  century,  that  Alexander  Selkirk,  a  Scotchman,  re- 
sided for  several  years,  and  fioin  whose  rude  indigested  story 
the  ingenious  De  Foe,  by  adding  the  fictitious  Friday,  «fcc.  has 
given  to  the  world  the  delightful  romance  of  Robinson  Crusoe. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5tli  wc  stood  in  to  about  five  miles  off 
nhore,  when  the  shij)  was  hove  to  ;  and  at  six  o'clock  wo  pro- 
ec  'led  for  the  island  in  the  pinnace  and  jolly-boat,  with  twenty- 
four  empty  water-casks.  Our  party,  including  mates,  passen- 
gers, and  sailors,  aiuounted  to  twenty-three.  A  heavy  surf 
broke  along  the  beach,  and  after  searching  in  vain  for  a  fair 
opening  to  disembark,  we  were  reduced  to  the  disagreeable 
necessity  of  throwing  ourselves  through  the  surf,  and  succeeded 
in  accomplishing  a  landing  at  the  imminent  risk  of  our  lives. 
After  making  a  cheering  fire  to  dry  our  clothes,  we  divided  into 
two  parties  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  island.  Messrs. 
Clarke,  Clapp,  and  Seton  formed  one  ;  and  Messrs.  Nicolls, 
Halsey,  and  myself  the  other ;  Messrs.  Rhodes,  Dean,  and 
Ehninger  remained  in  the  boats,  and  at  the  landing-place,  to 
superintend  the  watering  and  fishing  business. 

The  island  appears  to  be  one  vast  rock,  split  by  some  convul- 
sion of  nature  into  five  or  six  parts.  It  was  through  one  of  these 
chasms  that  our  party  determined  to  proceed  ;  and  accoutred 
each  with  a  fowling-piece,  horn  and  pouch,  we  set  forward  in 
quest  of  adventures.  The  breadth  of  the  aperture  at  its  en- 
trance did  not  exceed  fifty  feet,  and  it  became  narrower  as  we 
advanced ;  through  the  bottom  meandered  a  clear  stream  of 
fine  water,  from  which  the  boats  were  supplied,  and  which 


* 


MAflBAFVBno. 


f 

31 


mvul- 
Ithese 
itred 
Ird  in 
en- 
Is  we 
of 
I'hich 


proved  of  grcnt  «crvicc  U>  us  in  tin*  rourso  of  our  excursion. 
VVu  iiad  not  proceeded  more  tliiiu  titiH  u  mile  when  wo  en* 
countered  ho  muny  ditiieulties  in  eliml)ing  over  Hteep  rocks, 
passing  |)onds,  Wiiterfiills,  Air.,  that  we  were  compelled  to 
leave  our  guiiH  behind  us.  Thus  disemburraHsed,  we  continued 
our  course  for  upwards  of  two  miles  up  a  steep  ascent,  follow- 
ing the  dilferent  windingH  of  the  sitream,  whieh,  at  intervals, 
tumbling  over  large  rocks,  formed  cascades  which  greatly  im- 
peded our  progress. 

In  proportion  as  wo  advanced,  the  daylight  seemed  to  recede, 
and  for  some  time  we  were  involved  in  an  almost  gloiiuiy  dark- 
ness, on  accotuit  of  tlu;  mountain  tops  on  each  side  nearly  form- 
ing a  junction.  We  now  regretted  the  want  of  our  guns,  as 
we  observed  a  great  number  of  goats  on  the  surrouu<ling  preci- 
pices ;  and  the  dead  bodiesof  several,  in  a  PiOre  or  less  decayed 
state,  which  we  supposed  must  have  fallen  in  bounding  from 
clifl'to  clitf,  and  ascending  the  slip|)cry  and  almost  perpendicular 
hills  among  wiiich  they  vegetate.  A  little  further  on,  on  turning 
the  point  of  a  projecting  rock,  we  were  u^reoably  relieved  by 
the  oright  rays  of  the  siui,  which  shone  with  g»eat  splendour  on 
the  chaotic  »nus8  of  rocks  by  which  we  were  encompassed. 
Reanimated  by  the  presence  of  this  cheering  object,  we  redou- 
bled our  pace,  and  were  already  congratulating  ourselvos  with 
being  near  the  summit  of  the  mountain  (which  from  the  height 
we  had  ascended  must  have  been  the  ease),  when  our  progress 
was  arrested  by  a  large  pond,  upwards  of  twenty  fjct  deep  ; 
and  from  the  steepness  of  the  rocks  on  each  side,  it  was  im- 
possible to  pass  it  except  by  swimming.  We  therefore  deter- 
mined to  return  before  night  overtook  us  in  such  a  dreary  place ; 
and  after  encountering  fifty  hair-breadth  escapes,  reached  the 
watering-place  about  seven  o'clock,  hungry  os  wolves,  and 
almost  fatigued  to  death.  Here  we  found  tlie  other  party,  who 
had  arrived  a  short  time  before  us.  Messrs.  Clark  and  Clapp 
shot  two  fat  goats  ;  and  Mr.  Dean,  who  with  three  men  re- 
mained in  the  boats,  caught  between  three  and  four  hundred 
excellent  fish,  out  of  which  we  succeeded  in  making  an  excel- 
lent supper. 

Sixteen  of  the  casks  being  now  filled,  Mr.  Rhodes  judged  it 
expedient  to  proceed  with  them  to  the  ship,  and  to  return  the 
following  day  for  the  remainder.  Ten  were  made  fas  to  the 
pinnace  and  six  to  the  jolly  boat,  and  at  one  o'clock,  a.  m.,  on 
the  morning  of  the  Gth,  after  some  hoiu's'  hard  rowing,  we 
reached  the  ship,  amid  a  storm  of  thunder,  lightning,  and  ruin. 
During  that  day  it  blew  too  fresh  to  permit  the  boats  to  return, 
and  we  kept  standing  off  and  on  till  the  7th,  whon  the  breeze 
moderated,  and  enabled  us  to  bring  oil'  the  remaining  casks. 


32 


CAPTIIKE    OF  A   SHARK. 


•■I' 


Massafuero  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea,  and  1ms  but  n  narrow 
Btrij)  of  beach.  It  was  formerly  well  stocked  with  seals,  but 
these  animals  have  been  nearly  destroyed  by  American  whalers. 
The  goats  are  numeiTius,  but  too  rancid  to  be  used  for  food, 
except  in  cases  of  necessity.  The  island  also  appears  to  be 
devoid  of  wood.  The  carj)enter,  who  went  on  shore  for  the  pur- 
pose of  procuring  some  that  could  be  used  in  building  a  boat, 
found  only  a  few  pieces  with  a  close  grain,  very  hard,  and  in 
colour  resembling  box  :  it  was  fit  only  for  knees.  Mr.  Clapp's 
party,  in  their  tour,  whicli  was  along  the  beach,  around  the  west- 
ern extremity  of  the  island,  saw  none  of  this  necessary  article ; 
and  in  the  cleft  of  the  mountain  through  which  our  party  pro- 
ceeded, we  observed  only  a  few  trees  ot  the  kind  found  by  the 
carpenter,  growing  among  inaccessible  rocks.  The  most  valua- 
ble production  of  Massafuom  is  undoubtedly  its  fish,  of  which 
there  is  a  great  variety.  No  one  on  board  was  able  to  appro- 
priate names  to  all  we  took.  The  smallest  is  a  species  of  whit- 
nig,  and  very  delicate  when  fried.  The  largest  bears  a  strong 
resemblance  to  cod,  and  by  some  of  our  p.ople  was  deemed 
superior.  There  are  also  several  kinds  of  bass,  herring,  crabs, 
&c.  We  caught  a  few  conger  eels ;  the  most  disgusting  I  ever 
saw  ;  but,  as  a  counterbalance,  the  Massafuero  lobster,  for  large- 
ness of  size,  beautiful  variety  of  colours,  and  deliciousness  of 
tuste,  is,  I  believe,  unrivalled. 

With  the  cxreption  of  the  fish,  there  is  nothing  to  induce  a 
vessel  to  touch  at  this  place,  while  the  fruitful  island  of  Juan 
Fernandez  is  so  near,  but  a  desire,  as  was  our  case,  of  conceal- 
ing the  object  of  its  voyage  from  the  inquisitive  and  jealous  eyes 
of  the  Spanish  authorities,  who  were  stationed  at  the  latter 
island.* 

A  few  days  after  leaving  Massafuero  we  got  into  the  trade- 
winds,  which  wafted  us  on  at  an  even,  steady  rate,  varying  from 
four  to  seven  knots  an  hour. 

A  curious  incident  occurred  on  Sunday,  the  23d  of  February, 
eai'ly  on  the  morning  of  which  day  a  hog  had  been  killed ;  a  prac- 
tice which  had  been  generally  observed  every  Sabbath  morning 
during  the  voyage.  After  breakfast,  the  weather  being  calm,  a 
number  of  the  crew  and  passengers  amused  themselves  by  bathing 
around  the  vessel.  Some  of  them  had  returned  on  board,  when  a 
sailor  on  the  forecastle  discovered  a  large  shark  gliding  slowly  and 
cautiously  under  the  starboard  bow.  With  great  presence  of  mind 


*  VVhilo  Spain  heltl  possession  of  South  America  every  vossol  touching  at 
Juan  Feriiande/  was  8uliji»ctod  to  a  rigorous  search  ;  and  from  the  number  of 
our  iruns.  joined  to  the  jxroat  quantities  of  warlike  stores  on  board,  the  captain 
did  not  deem  it  prudent  In  run  the  risk  of  nn  iiiqnisitorial  inspection.  I  should 
lioi)e  the  oibcers  of  the  Cliilian  republic  stationed  hero  Jiavo  adopted  u  more 
liberal  policy. 


SANDWICH   ISLANDS. 


tradc- 
t  from 


bruary, 
a  prac- 


iching  at 
inbor  of 
captain 

T  ehould 
u  more 


ho  instantly  seized  a  small  rope  called  a  clew-line,  and  with  cha- 
racteristic despatch  made  a  niiining  knot,  which  he  silently  low- 
ered into  the  water :  the  monster  unwarily  passed  the  head  and 
upper  fin  through  the  noose;  on  observing  which,  the  sailor  jerked 
the  rope  round  the  cat-head,  and  with  the  assistance  of  some 
of  his  messmates,  succeeded  in  hauling  it  on  deck.  In  the  mean 
time,  those  who  were  still  spctrling  in  the  water  were  almost  par- 
alyzed on  hearing  the  cry  of  "  a  shark  !  a  shark  !"  and  not  know- 
ing on  which  side  of  them  lay  the  dreaded  danger,  some  made 
for  the  ship,  and  others  swam  from  it ;  each  momentarily  expect- 
ing to  come  in  contact  with 

His  jaws  horrific,  arniM  with  throofuld  fate, 

when  their  fears  were  dissipated  by  announcing  to  them  the  wel- 
come intelligence  of  his  ca|)tion.  On  dissecting  him,  the  entire 
entrails  of  the  hog  which  had  been  killed  in  the  morning  were 
found  in  his  belly  !  so  that  he  nmst  have  been  alongside  during 
the  whole  of  the  forenoon,  and  was  doubtless  intimidated  by  the 
number  of  the  swimmers  from  attacking  any  of  them  indi- 
vidually. 

On  the  4th  of  March  wc  crossed  the  Equator,  for  the  second 
time  this  voyage,  with  a  brisk  south-easterly  breeze  ;  and  on  the 
25th,  at  daybreak,  we  made  the  island  of  Owhyee,  the  largest 
in  the  group  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  It  was  the  captain's  ori- 
ginal intention  to  stop  at  this  place  for  his  supplies :  but  on  ap- 
proaching Karakakooa  bay  we  were  informed  by  some  natives, 
who  came  otf  in  canoes,  that  Tamaahmaah,  the  king,  then  resided 
in  Whoahoo.  As  we  were  anxious,  for  several  reasons,  to  have 
an  interview  with  his  majesty,  the  captain  relinquished  the  idea 
of  stopping  here,  and  stood  about  for  the  latter  island. 

As  we  sailed  along  Owhyee,  with  a  fine  easterly  breeze, 
nature  and  art  displayed  to  our  view  one  of  the  finest  prospects  I 
ever  beheld.  The  snow-clad  summit  of  the  gigantic  Mouna 
Roah,  towering  into  the  clouds,  with  its  rocky  and  dreary  sides, 
presented  a  sublime  coiij)  iVocil,  and  formed  a  powerful  contrast 
to  its  cultivated  base,  and  the  beautiful  plantations  interspersed 
along  the  shore.  Eternal  winter  reigned  above,  while  all  beneath 
flourished  in  the  luxuriance  of  perpetual  summer.  The  death, 
too,  of  the  ill-fated  and  memorable  Cook  will  attach  a  melancholy 
celebrity  to  this  island ;  as  it  was  hero  that  that  great  naviga- 
tor was  sacrificed  in  a  temporary  (>bullition  of  savage  fury,  and 
closed  a  brilliant  career  of  services,  which  relict  honour  on  his 
country,  and  will  perpetuate  his  name  to  the  latest  posterity. 

As  the  wind  continucil  fresh,  we  soon  cleared  Owhyee,  and 
passed  in  succession  the  islands  of  INIowee,  llanui,  Morotoi,  and 
in  the  evening  came  m  sight  of  Whoahoo.    While  we  sailed 


-¥■  * 


34 


VISIT   FKOM    A    CHIEF. 


1:  '^ 


along  this  interesting  group  of  islands  several  Indians  boarded 
us,  from  whom  we  purchased  a  few  hogs,  some  melons,  plan- 
tains, &c.  It  being  too  late  to  attempt  anchoring  this  evening, 
we  stood  off  and  on  during  the  night. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Whoahoo — Visit  from  a  chief— Nocturnal  excursion — King  and  Queens — In- 
vasion of  the  ship — White  men — Gardens — Foot  race,  and  summary  justice 
— Throwing  tlie  spear — Royal  residence,  and  body-guard — Mourning  for 
a  chief's  wife — Billy  Pitt,  George  Washington,  &c.  jt,^ 

On  Thursday  the  26th  of  March,  at  noon,  we  came  to  anchor 
outside  of  the  bar  in  Whytetee  bay,  about  two  miles  from  shore, 
and  nearly  abreast  of  a  village  from  which  the  bay  is  named. 

A  short  time  after  anchoring  we  were  visited  by  an  eree  or 
chief,  named  Tiama,  in  a  double  canoe,  who  was  sent  by  the  king 
to  learn  from  whence  the  ship  came,  whither  bound,  &c.  After 
obtaining  the  necessary  information,  and  taking  a  glass  of 
wine,  he  returned,  and  was  accompanied  by  the  captain,  who 
went  on  shore  in  order  to  acquaint  his  majesty  with  the  particu- 
lar object  he  had  in  touching  here.*  Tiama  informed  us  that  a 
taboo*  was  then  in  force,  which  accounted  for  our  not  being 
visited  by  any  of  the  natives.  At  ten  o'clock  the  captain  came 
back  with  Tiama.  He  had  met  with  a  favourable  reception 
from  Tamaahmaah,  who  promised  to  expedite  his  departure  as 
soon  as  possible. 

Mr.  Nicolls  observing  the  chief  preparing  to  return,  and  being 
impatient  to  go  on  shore,  proposed  that  the  passengers  should 
accompany  him :  this  was  opposed  by  others ;  upon  which  it 
was  put  to  the  vote,  when  four  appearing  in  its  favour,  the 
motion  was  of  course  carried.  The  ayes  were  Messrs.  Nicolls, 
Clapp,  Halsey,  and  myself:  the  minority  chose  to  remain  on 
board.  The  weather  was  calm,  and  we  took  with  us  a  couple 
of  flutes.  Our  canoe  went  on  briskly  until  we  passed  the  chan- 
nel of  the  bar,  when  a  most  delightful  nocturnal  prospect 
opened  on  us.  The  serenity  of  the  sky  and  the  brightness  of 
the  moon  enabled  us  to  discern  objects  distinctly  on  shore.  The 
village  of  Whytetee,  situated  in  an  open  grove  of  cocoanut- 
trees,  with  the  hills  rising  gently  in  the  rear,  presented  a  charm- 
ing perspective  by  moonlight,  while  the  solemn  stillness  of  the 
night,  interrupted  at  intervals  by  the  hoarse  murmurs  of  the  surges, 

*  See  Cook,  Vancouver,  &c. 


^1  fe 


KINO    AND    (.UEENS. 


8i 


as  they  broke  over  the  bar,  rendered  the  scene  in  the  highest 
degree  romantic.  On  landing  we  found  the  beach  covered 
with  a  concourse  of  natives,  whom  the  sound  of  our  flutes  had 
attracted  thither :  they  came  pressing  on  us  in  such  crowds,  that 
were  it  not  for  the  chief's  authority,  we  should  have  had  consi- 
derable difficulty  in  forcing  a  passage  through  them.  About 
midnight  we  reached  the  village,  and  Tiama  conducted  us  to  his 
house,  where  we  experienced  a  hospitable  reception  from  his 
family,  which  consisted  of  three  strapping  wives,  two  handsome 
daughters,  and  a  brother,  about  twenty  years  of  age.  A  young 
pig  lost  its  life  by  our  arrival,  on  which,  with  some  cocoanuts 
and  bananas,  we  made  an  excellent  supper.  Tiama's  brother 
was  our  major  domo :  he  attached  himself  particularly  to  Nicolls, 
who  called  him  Tom  ;  and  as  a  compensation  for  liis  trouble  and 
obliging  attention  to  us,  made  him  a  present  of  his  stockings, 
which,  unfortunately  for  poor  Tom,  were  silk  ones.  He  was  so 
proud  of  the  gift,  that  he  immediately  put  them  over  his  olive- 
coloured  calves,  and  without  any  shoes,  he  continued  walking 
and  working  about  the  house :  this  was  usage  to  which  silk  stock- 
ings were  not  accustomed,  and  the  consequence  was  that  before 
morning  their  soles  had  vanished.  Our  repast  being  finished, 
the  chief  ordered  a  bevy  of  young  females,  who  since  our  arri- 
val had  been  hovering  about  the  house,  to  entertain  us  with  one 
of  their  native  airs  :  they  at  once  complied,  and  having  formed 
themselves  into  a  semicircle,  sang  in  rather  an  harmonious  man- 
ner: their  languishing  eyes,  and  significant  pauses,  evidently 
showed  without  the  aid  of  an  interpreter  that  the  subject  was 
amatory.  This  over,  Tom  conducted  us  to  a  neat  lodge  which 
Tiama  had  allotted  for  our  use,  and  in  which  we  enjoyed  the  re- 
mainder of  the  night  in  undisturbed  repose  on  soft  beds  of  island 
cloth. 

On  the  following  morning  we  arose  early,  and  took  a  refresh- 
ing walk  on  the  seashore,  after  which  we  returned  to  the  ship 
in  Tiama's  canoe.  Our  appearance  was  a  subject  of  merriment 
to  those  on  board.  One  bare-legged,  another  without  his  cravat, 
the  coat  of  a  third  closely  buttoned  up  to  conceal  the  absence  of 
his  vest ;  all  in  fact  lighter  than  when  we  set  out ;  but  nothing 
was  purloined.  We  had  been  hospitably  entertained  by  the 
chieftain  and  his  family;  gratitude  demanded  a  return,  and  as 
we  had  omitted  to  furnish  ourselves  with  trinketf,  we  could  only 
supply  the  deficiency  by  parting  with  a  portion  of  our  least 
useful  clothing. 

As  the  taboo  had  ceased  to  operate  this  day,  we  found  the 
vessel  crowded  with  natives  bartering  their  produce  with  our 
people.  At  noon  we  were  honoured  by  a  visit  from  their  majes- 
ties, the  king  and  four  queens,  attended  by  Krimacoc,  the  prime 


^    11 


36 


KINO    AND   QUEENS. 


-VS. 


■  T 


minister,  and  leveral  of  the  principal  chiefs,  together  with 
Messrs.  Maninna  and  Hairbottle,  two  white  men,  the  former  a 
Spaniard,  who  held  the  oflice  of  chief  interpreter  to  the  king, 
and  the  latter  an  Englishman,  and  head  pilot  of  his  majesty's 
fleet. 

The  king  and  queens  came  in  a  large  double  canoe,  which 
was  formed  by  lashing  two  canoes  together,  separated  by  bars  of 
two  and  a  half  feet  in  length  from  each  other.  Each  canoe  had 
fourteen  chosen  men.  On  the  bars  was  raised  a  kind  of  seat  on 
which  the  queens  reposed,  and  above  all  was  placed  an  arm- 
chest  well  stored  with  muskets,  on  which  the  king 

Above  the  rest, 

In  shape  and  gesture  proudl/  eminent. 

Sat  like — a  tailor. 

Immediately  before  his  majesty  was  a  native  who  carried  a 
handsome  silver-hilted  hanger,  which  was  presented  to  him  by 
the  late  emperor  of  Russia,  and  which  on  state  occasions  he  had 
always  carried  before  him,  in  imitation,  as  we  supposed,  of 
European  sword-bearers.  Behind  the  royal  personage  sat 
another  native  who  carried  a  large  and  highly  polished  bowl  of 
dark-brown  wood,  into  which  his  majesty  ever  and  anon  ejected 
all  his  superabundant  saliva. 

After  he  had  arrived  on  the  deck,  Tamaahmaah  shook  hands 
in  the  most  condescending  manner  with  every  one  he  met  be- 
tween the  cabin  and  the  gangway,  exclaiming  to  each  person, 
"  Aroah,  Aroah  nuee"  (I  love  you,  I  love  you  much).  There 
was  a  degree  of  negligent  simplicity  about  his  dress,  which 
strongly  characterized  the  royal  philosopher.  His  head  was 
crowned  with  an  old  woollen  hat;  the  coat  was  formed  of 
coarse  blue  cloth  in  the  antique  shape,  with  large  metal  buttons  ; 
the  waistcoat  of  brown  velvet,  which  in  its  youthful  days  had 
been  black ;  a  pair  of  short,  tight,  and  well  worn  velveteen 
pantaloons  displayed  to  great  edvantuge  coarse  worsted  ^tock- 
mgs  and  thick-soled  shoes,  all  admirably  adapted  for  the  tropics ; 
while  his  shirt  and  cravat,  which  had  forinerly  been  white, 
seemed  to  have  had  a  serious  misunderstanding  with  their  wash- 
erwoman. Such,  gentle  reader,  was  the  costume  of  Tamaah- 
maah the  First,  king  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  hereditary  prince 
of  Owhyee,  and  protector  of  a  confederation  of  escaped  con- 
victs from  New  South  Wales  i* 

The  royal  party  remained  on  board  to  dine.     The  king  only 

*  Tamaahmaah  was  hereditary  king  of  Owhyee  only  ;  he  subsequently 
conquered  all  the  other  islands.  A  number  of  convicts  are  at  Whoahoo,  who 
•scaped  from  Botany  Bay  by  means  of  American  vessels,  and  who  reside  here 
in  security. 


KINO   AND   QUEENS. 


37 


[  only 


«at  at  table.and  was  placed  at  the  right-hand  of  the  captain,  with 
the  attendant  who  carried  his  saliva  reservoir  behind  him.  He 
ate  voraciously,  and  in  a  very  commendable  manner  wasited 
down  the  solids  with  a  fair  quantum  of  Madeira,  to  the  virtues 
of  which  he  appeared  by  no  means  to  be  a  stranger.  On  filling 
the  first  glass  he  drank  our  healths  individually  ;  after  which  he 
plied  away  nobly,  and  apparently  unconscious  of  the  presence  of 
any  of  the  company.  lie  did  not  touch  the  port,  but  finished 
between  two  and  three  decanters  of  the  Madeira.  As  the  ladies 
are  prohibited  from  eating  with  the  men,  we  were  of  course 
deprived  of  the  pleasure  of  their  society  at  our  repast;  butai\er 
we  had  ([uitted  the  table  they  were  graciously  permitted  to  oc- 
cupy our  seats.  Their  dinner  had  been  dressed  on  shore  by 
their  own  cooks,  and  was  brought  by  them  on  board  ;  it  con- 
sisted of  small  raw  fish,  roasted  dogs,  and  a  white  mixture 
called  pooah,  of  the  consistence  of  flummery  :  this  last  they  take 
by  dipping  the  two  forefingers  of  the  right  hand  into  the  dish 
which  contains  the  pooah,  and  after  turning  them  round  in  the 
mixture  until  they  are  covered  with  three  or  four  coats,  they 
raise  the  hand,  and  giving  the  fingers  a  dexterous  twist,  to 
shake  oflf  the  fag-ends,  bring  them  forward  rapidly  to  the  mouth, 
which  is  ready  open  for  their  reception,  and  by  a  strong  labial 
compression,  they  are  quickly  cleared  of  their  precious  burden  I 
But  m  plain  unadorned  simplicity  of  dress,  they  far  exceeded 
their  royal  consort.  It  merely  consisted  of  a  long  piece  of 
their  country  cloth  wrapped  in  several  folds  round  the  waist, 
and  reaching  only  to  the  knees,  leaving  the  breasts  aiid  legs  ex- 
posed to  the  criticisms  of  amateurs  in  female  beauty ;  to  this 
they  occasionally  add  a  scarf  of  the  same  material,  which  is  neg- 
ligently thrown  over  the  shoulders,  and  fiills  behind.  They  are 
very  corpulent :  the  favourite  measured  nearly  nine  feet  in  cir- 
cumference round  the  waist ;  and  the  others  were  not  much  in- 
ferior in  size.    We  may  say  of  the  royal  taste,  that 

They  were  chosen  as  we  choose  old  plate, 
Not  for  their  beauty,  but  their  weight. 

Still  they  possess  mild  engaging  countenances,  with  that  "soft 
sleepiness  of  the  eye"  by  which  Goldsmith  distinguishes  the 
beauties  of  Cashmere.  Their  conduct  is  under  strict  surveil- 
lance. Mr.  Hairbottlo  informed  us  that  a  few  days  previous  to 
our  arrival,  an  intrigue  had  been  discovered  between  the  favour- 
ite queen  and  one  of  the  king's  body-guard.  As  their  guilt  ad- 
mitted of  no  doubt,  the  unfortunate  paramour  was  strangled  on 
the  same  night ;  but  as  Tamaahmaah  still  cherished  a  lingering 
aflfection  for  his  frail  favourite,  he  pardoned  her,  with  the  short 
but  pithy  expression, "  If  you  do  it  again.  — ." 


h'\ 


1 


38 


INVASION    OP    THE    i?UIP — WHITE   MEN. 


-  S 


iM 


M 


ti    * 


"I  * 


During  the  afternoon  tlie  king  employed  himself  in  taking  the 
dimensions  of  the  ship,  examining  the  cabin,  state-rooms,  &c. 
Scarcely  an  object  escaped  the  royal  scrutiny :  observing  Mr. 
Seton  writing,  he  approached  him,  and  began  to  examine  the  va- 
rious little  knicknacks  with  which  the  desk  was  furnished.  Seton 
showed  him  a  handsome  penknife  of  curious  workmanship,  con- 
taining a  number  of  blades,  not  with  an  intent'on  of  bestowing 
it :  with  this  he  appeared  particularly  pleased,  and  putting  it 
into  one  of  the  pockets  of  his  capacious  vest,  said,  "  M ytye,  nue 
nue  mytye"  (good,  very  good),  and  walked  away.  It  was  in 
vain  for  Seton  to  expostulate  ;  his  majesty  did  not  understand 
EngUsh,  and  all  entreaties  to  induce  him  to  return  the  penknife 
were  ineffectual.  On  the  following  day,  however,  a  chief 
brought  Seton  a  handsome  present  from  the  king,  of  mats, 
cloth,  and  other  native  productions,  with  two  hundred  fine 
cocoanuts. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening  the  queens  played  draughts  with 
some  of  our  most  scientific  amateurs,  whom  they  beat  hollow ; 
and  such  was  the  skill  evinced  by  them  in  the  game,  that  not 
one  of  our  best  players  succeeded  in  making  a  king. 

Late  in  the  evening  our  illustrious  guests  took  their  departure, 
accompanied  by  all  their  attendants  ;  but  they  had  scarcely 
embarked  in  their  canoes  when  the  ship  was  boarded  on  all 
sides  by  numbers  of  women,  who  had  come  off  in  small  canoes 
paddled  by  men  or  elderly  females,  and  who,  after  leaving  their 
precious  cargo  on  deck,  returned  quickly  to  the  island,  lest  the 
captain  should  refuse  his  sanction  to  their  remaining  in  the  vessel. 
They  crowded  in  such  numbers  about  the  crew  as  to  obstruct 
the  performance  of  their  duty,  and  the  captain  threatened 
to  send  them  all  on  shore  in  the  ship's  boats  if  they  did  not 
behave  themselves  with  more  propriety.  This  had  the  desired 
effect,  and  while  they  remained  on  board  they  gave  no  further 
cause  for  complaint. 

On  the  following  morning,  the  28th,  we  weighed  anchor,  and 
worked  the  sh'p  a  few  miles  higher  up,  exactly  opposite  the  vil- 
lage of  Honaroora,  where  the  king  resided.  We  spent  the  day 
on  shore,  at  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Holmes,  a  white  man,  and  a 
native  of  the  United  States,  by  whom  we  were  sumptuously 
entertained.  He  had  been  svittled  here  since  the  year  1793,  and  at 
the  period  I  speak  of  was,  next  to  the  king,  the  greatest  chief 
on  the  island.  He  had  one  hundred  and  eighty  servants,  or 
under-tenants,  whom  he  called  slaves,  and  who  occupied  small 
huts  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  his  house.  He  had  also 
extensive  plantations  on  Whoahoo,  and  on  the  island  of  Morotoi, 
from  whence  he  derived  a  considerable  income.  lie  was  mar- 
ried to  a  native  wife,  by  whom  he  had  several  children.     The 


WHITE   MEN. 


39 


eldest  was  a  most  interesting  girl,  aged  about  fifteen  years,  with 
a  peculiarly  soft  and  expressive  countenance.  Nature,  in  her 
freaks,  had  bestowed  upon  this  island  beauty  an  extraordinary 
profusion  of  hair,  in  which  the  raven  tresses  of  the  mother  were 
strangely  intermingled  with  the  flaxen  locks  of  the  father.  She 
spoke  tolerably  good  English,  and  always  sat  near  him.  He 
appeared  to  watch  her  conduct  with  all  the  parental  solicitude 
of  a  man  who,  from  long  experience,  well  knew  the  danger  to 
which  she  was  exposed  from  the  genera!  demoralization  of  man- 
ners that  prevailed  about  her.  Mr.  Holmes  is  greatly  respected 
by  the  natives,  by  whom  he  is  entitled  Eree  Homo,  or  the  Chief 
Holmes. 

As  we  met  hei-e  several  other  respectable  white  men,  I  shall 
mention  their  names  ;  and  first,  Mr.  Maninna.  This  gentleman 
had  been  a  Spanish  officer,  and  in  consequence  of  having  while 
stationed  at  Mexico  killed  a  superior  officer  in  a  quarrel,  he  fled 
to  California,  from  whence  he  escaped  to  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
where,  having  acquired  the  language  witli  wonderful  facility,  he 
was  appointed  to  the  office  of  chief  interpreter.  He  was  a  man 
of  general  information,  spoke  French  and  English  fluently,  and 
from  his  easy  manners  and  insinuating  address,  shortly  became 
a  general  favourite.  He  had  built  a  handsome  stone  house,  the 
only  one  on  the  island,  in  which  he  resided  with  his  wife,  who 
was  the  daughter  of  a  chief:  her  sister  lived  also  in  the  same 
house ;  and  the  busy  tongue  of  scandal,  which  even  here  has 
found  an  entrance,  did  not  hesitate  to  say  that  the  two  sisters 
equally  participated  in  his  aflections.  His  drawing-room  was 
decorated  with  a  number  of  Chinese  paintings,  which  he  obtained 
from  Canton,  of  the  crucifixion,  the  Madonna,  different  saints, 
&c. ;  but  on  removing  a  sliding  pannel  from  the  opposite  side, 
subjects  of  a  far  different  nature  were  represented  ! 

Mr.  Davis,  the  king's  gardener,  was  a  Welshman,  and  at  this 
period  had  been  settled  on  the  island  twelve  years.  He  had  also 
considerable  plantations,  and  had  a  native  wife,  who  was  a  most 
incontinent  jade.  He  had  just  returned  from  a  distant  part  of 
the  island,  whither  he  had  been  in  pursuit  of  his  faithless  cava 
sposa,  who  had  eloped  a  few  days  before  with  one  of  her  native 
beaux.  Poor  Davis  felt  rather  sore  on  being  bantered  by  old 
Holmes  on  this  affair.  "  Tarn  the  strap,"  said  he,  "1  cot  her  snug 
enough  to  be  sure  with  her  sweetheart ;  but  I  think  she'll  remem- 
per  the  pasting  I  gave  her  all  the  tays  of  her  life."  We  were 
informed  he  might  have  easily  parted  from  her,  and  procured  a 
more  suitable  niatch,  but  he  was  unfortunately  too  much  attached 
to  her  to  think  of  taking  another. 

Mr.  Hairbottle,  the  chief  pilot,  is  a  native  of  Berwick,  and  was 
formerly  boatswain  of  an  English  merchant  ship.    He  had  resi- 


*-.     =». 


40 


WHITE   MBN. 


ii 


>rf 


dcd  upwards  of  fourteen  years  on  the  diflerent  islands,  and  had 
been  married  to  a  native  wife,  who  was  dead  for  some  years. 
He  was  a  quiet,  unassuminc;  old  man,  whose  principal  enjoy- 
ments consisted  in  a  glass  of  rum  grog  and  a  j)ipe  of  tobacco. 

Mr.  Wadsworth,  an  American.  This  gentleman  had  been 
chief  mate  of  a  ship  which  had  touched  here  about  six  years 
before.  Having  quarrelled  with  his  captain,  they  separated,  and 
he  took  up  his  residence  in  the  island.  The  king,  who  gave  par- 
ticular encouragement  to  white  men  of  education  to  settle  here, 
immediately  presented  Wadsworth  with  a  belle  brunette  for  a 
wife,  together  with  a  house  and  some  hogs. 

Here  we  also  found  a  gentleman  from  New- York,  under  the 
assumed  name  of  Cook ;  but  who  was  recognized  by  Mr.  Nicolls 
as  a  member  of  a  highly  respectable  family  in  that  city,  named 

S s.     He  had,  like  Wadsworth,  been  also  chief  officer  of 

an  American  East  Indiaman,  which  had  touched  here  about  three 
months  previous  to  our  arrival ;  and  in  consequence  of  a  misun- 
derstanding with  the  captain,  he  left  the  ship,  and  took  up  his 
abode  with  Mr.  Holmes.  On  hearing  of  this  circumstance, 
Tamaahmaah,  as  an  encouragement  to  his  settling  permanently 
on  the  island,  gave  him  the  daughter  of  a  principal  chief  for  a 

wife,  some  land,  and  a  number  of  hogs.     S s,  however, 

did  not  appear  to  relish  his  situation  :  he  had  been  too  long  ac- 
customed to  the  refinements  of  civilization  at  once  to  adapt 
himself  to  Indian  habits,  and  received  with  apathy  the  fond 
caresses  of  his  olive-coloured  spouse.  He  expressed  a  desire  to 
return  in  our  ship,  but  the  captain's  arrangements  could  not 
permit  it. 

While  on  this  subject  1  may  as  well  mention  that  the  example 

of  Wadsworth  and   S s  seemed  to  be  contagious  ;  for  a 

few  days  after  our  arrival  Mr.  Dean,  our  third  officer,  had  a  se- 
rious altercatioii  with  the  captain,  which  ended  in  his  quitting  the 
ship ;  and  on  its  coming  to  the  king's  knowledge,  he  sent  for  him, 
and  told  him  if  he  would  remain,  and  take  charge  of  his  fleet, 
he  would  give  him  a  house  and  lands,  plenty  of  hogs,  and  a  beau- 
tiful daughter  of  a  chief  for  a  wife.  Dean  told  him  he  had  not 
yet  made  up  his  mind  on  the  subject,  and  requested  time  to  con- 
sider the  often  The  king  did  not  object,  and  the  interview  ended. 
I  believe,  however,  that  Dean  subsequently  quitted  the  island, 
and  returned  to  New- York. 

Mr.  Holmes  gave  us  a  plentiful  dinner  of  roast  pork,  roast  dog, 
fowl,  ham,  fish,  wine,  and  rum,  with  a  profusion  of  excellent  tro- 
pical fruit.  A  number  of  native  servants  attended  at  table,  each 
holding  a  napkin  :  they  performed  their  duty  in  a  very  expert 
manner,  and  appeared  to  be  well  acquainted  with  all  the  domestic 
economy  of  the  table.    Their  livery  was  quite  uniform,  and 


:J-  ,•*■ 


WHITE   IfSN. 


41 


consisted  merely  of  a  cincture  of  country  cloth  round  the  Mraist, 
from  which  a  narrow  piece  of  the  same  stuff  passed  between  the 
legs,  and  was  fastened  to  the  belt,  leaving  the  remainder  of  the 
b<Kly  totally  uncovered !  Our  noble  commander  was  vice-presi- 
dent, and  undertook  to  carve  the  dog ;  which  duty  he  performed 
in  a  manner  quite  unique.  He  was  the  only  one  of  our  party 
who  partook  of  it.  The  idea  of  eating  so  faithful  an  animal 
without  even  the  plea  of  necessity  effectually  prevented  any  of 
us  joining  in  this  part  of  the  feast ;  although,  to  do  the  meat  jus- 
tice, it  really  looked  very  well  when  roasted.  The  islanders 
esteem  it  the  greatest  luxury  they  possess ;  and  no  one  under 
the  dignity  of  an  eree  of  the  first  class  is  permitted  to  partake 
of  this  delicious  food.  However  singular  their  taste  may  be 
regarded  in  this  respect  by  modem  civilization,  my  classical  read- 
ers may  recollect  that  the  ancients  reckoned  dogs  excellent  eat- 
ing, particularly  when  young  and  fat ;  and  we  have  the  authority 
of  Hippocrates  for  saying  that  their  flesh  is  equal  to  pork  or  mut- 
ton :  he  also  adds,  that  the  flesh  of  a  grown  dog  is  both  whole- 
some and  strengthening,  and  that  of  puppies  relaxing.  The  Ro- 
mans, too,  highly  admired  these  animals  as  an  article  of  food,  and 
thought  them  a  supper  in  which  the  gods  themselves  would  have 
delighted ! 

Independently  of  the  white  men  whose  names  I  have  men- 
tioned, there  were  about  fourteen  others,  belonging  to  all  nations, 
the  majority  of  whom  were  convicts  who  had  effected  their 
escape  from  Botany  Bay,  and  were  held  in  no  estimation  by  the 
natives.  They  are  supremely  indolent,  and  rum  and  women 
seemed  to  constitute  their  only  enjoyment. 

On  the  29th  we  made  an  excursion  into  the  interior  with 
Davis.  His  gardens  were  extensive,  and  pleasantly  situated  at 
the  foot  of  the  hills,  between  four  and  five  miles  from  Honaroora. 
They  were  laid  out  with  taste,  and  kept  in  excellent  order.  Ex- 
clusive of  the  indigenous  productions  of  the  country,  with  which 
they  were  plentifully  stocked,  he  planted  a  few  years  before 
some  Irish  potatoes,  and  the  crop  more  than  equalled  his  expec- 
tations. We  also  observed  some  prime  plantations  of  sugai'- 
cane.  A  few  of  those  we  measured  had  fourteen  feet  eatable, 
and  were  one  foot  in  circumference,  which,  I  am  informed,  far 
exceeds  the  best  Jamaica  canes.  The  climate  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands  is,  however,  more  propitious  to  the  growth  of  the  cane 
than  that  of  the  West  Indies,  at  which  latter  place  it  has,  besides, 
many  enemies  to  encounter  which  are  strangers  to  the  islands 
in  the  Pacific ;  such  as  monkeys,  ants,  bugs,  the  blast,  &c.,  one  or 
other  of  which  often  destroys  the  fairest  hopes  of  the  planter. 
The  islanders  distil  an  inferior  spirit  from  it,  which  the  resident 
white  people  have  dignified  by  the  title  of  "  country  rum."*    It 

£ 


^ 


f\ 


43 


KINO  8  OARDF.N8 — FOOT  RACEH. 


I 

iJ 


ii  weak,  and  has  a  smoky,  insipid  taste,  and  docs  not  produce  in 
toxication  except  taken  in  large  quantities. 

On  our  way  back  we  visited  the  king's  gardens,  which  were 
contiguous  to  Davis's.  They  were  much  more  extensive  than 
his,  pithough  tar  inferior  in  neatness,  and  contained  nothing  par- 
ticularly deserving  notice.  Davis  was  the  only  white  man  who 
superintended  his  own  plantations :  the  others  were  left  to  the 
management  of  their  servants,  and  were  seldom  visited  by  the 
proprietors ;  and  as  he  was  a  good  practical  agriculturist,  his 
gardens  were  superior  to  any  we  saw  on  the  island.  In  the 
course  of  this  tour  we  did  not  observe  a  spot  that  could  be  turned 
to  advantage  left  unimprov  J.  The  country  all  around  the 
bay  exhibits  the  highest  state  of  cultivation,  and  presents  at  one 
view  a  continued  range  of  picturesque  plantations,  intersected 
by  small  canals,  and  varied  by  groves  of  cocoanut-trees ;  the 
whoJe  be  uiided  on  the  background  by  gently  sloping  hills,  and 
in  the  front  by  the  ocean.  We  returned  late  in  the  evening, 
highly  delighted  with  our  day's  excursion,  and  sat  down  to  an 
excellent  dinner  prepared  for  us  by  the  worthy  Cambrian,  in 
whose  hospitable  mansion  we  spent  the  night. 

On  the  30th  we  were  present  at  a  grand  pedestrian  racing 
match,  between  Krikapooree,  the  king's  nephew,  and  an  Ameri- 
can black  named  Anderson,  who  was  his  armourer :  the  latte** 
won,  after  a  well  contested  struggle.  The  race-course  presented 
a  novel  and  striking  appearance.  At  the  upper  end  was  erected 
a  covered  platform  about  twenty  feet  from  the  ground,  on 
which  the  king  sat  cross-legged,  and  without  any  covering  what- 
ever, save  the  waistband  commonly  worn  by  the  natives :  his 
guards,  armed  with  muskets,  paraded  around  the  platform  ; 
while  on  each  side,  and  close  to  the  guards,  were  assembled 
an  immense  concourse  of  natives  of  all  classes,  mingled  together 
without  any  regard  to  rank,  age,  or  sex.  The  two  favourite 
queens  were  richly  dressed :  one  wore  a  light-blue  satin  gown, 
trimmed  with  broad  gold  lace ;  the  other  had  on  a  cream-coloured 
riding-habit  of  cassimere,  ornamented  with  silver  lace,  and  a 
profusion  of  sugar-loaf  buttons,  &c.  These  dresses  were  made 
for  them  in  England,  fitted  them  admirably,  and  set  off  their 
persons  to  great  advantage.  They  walked  through  the  crowd 
along  with  several  chiefs'  wives,  and  seemed  in  a  high  degree  to 
enjoy  the  bustling  scene  before  them.  Betting  was  very  spirited 
on  the  issue  of  the  race.  Money  of  course  was  out  of  the 
question  ;  but  among  the  lower  classes  its  place  was  supplied 
by  axes,  beads,  knives,  scissors,  handkerchiefs,  and  various  kinds 
of  trinkets ;  and  among  the  erees  of  the  first  and  second  grades 
we  could  distinguish  scarlet  and  blue  cloths,  silks,  Chinese  shawls, 
calicoes,  ribands,  &c.     Several  quarrels  occurred  among  the 


SUMMARY   JUBTICK — TmtOWINO   TlIE   SPEAR. 


43 


men,  which  were  settled,  (i  TAnglaise,  by  the  fist.  One  of  the 
natives  had  a  dispute  about  a  bet  with  an  Enghsh  sailor,  who 
had  been  left  here  a  short  time  before  by  hiH  captain,  for  mutiny. 
The  Indian  felt  he  was  richt,  and  refused  to  yield  to  the  chicanery 
of  the  sailor,  who  in  order  to  intimidate  him,  drew  from  hii 
pocket  a  small  pistol,  which  he  cocked,  and  presented  in  a  men- 
acing manner  at  the  islander's  breast,  swearing  if  he  did  not 
submit  he  would  shoot  him :  this  however  was  disregarded  by 
the  other,  who  seemed  determined  not  to  flinch  ;  but  tho  kin^, 
who  had  observed  the  whole  transaction  from  his  elevated  posi- 
tion, ordered  tho  sailor  to  be  brought  up  to  him,  which  was  in- 
stantly complied  with.  lie  then  took  the  pistol,  and  delivered 
it  to  one  of  his  attendants  to  be  placed  in  the  roynl  armory ; 
and  addressing  the  sailor,  told  him  the  only  punishment  he 
should  then  inflict  on  him  would  be  the  forfeiture  of  the  pistol ; 
but  in  case  he  ever  otiended  in  the  same  manner  again,  he  would 
have  him  put  to  death.  We  were  quite  delighted  with  this  sum- 
mary administration  of  justice,  for  the  sailor  appeared  to  be  a 
quarrelsome  rascal,  and  bore  an  infamous  character  among  his 
associates. 

After  the  race  was  over,  several  wrestling  and  boxing  matches 
took  place,  on  which  there  was  also  considerable  betting.  Some 
of  our  party,  who  were  amateur  pugilists,  declared  their  style  of 
hitting  to  be  admirable  ;  but  as  I  unfortunately  never  studied 

hazard  an  opinion  on  the  subject.  I  will  however  say,  that  no 
unfair  play  was  used,  and  that  no  blow  was  struck  while  a  man 
was  down.  At  the  termination  of  these  encounters  a  large  space 
was  formed,  for  two  natives  to  display  their  skill  in  throwing  the 
spear.  A  full  account  of  this  wonderful  performance  is  given  in 
Cook's  Voyages  ;  and  I  can  only  add,  that  the  amazing  activity 
evinced  in  avoiding  each  other's  weapons,  by  leaping  to  the 
right  or  left,  or  allowing  them  to  pass  under  their  arms,  oetween 
their  legs,  &c. ;  and  their  surprising  dexterity  and  self-possession 
in  a  situation  in  which  a  European  would  be  transfixed  ere  he 
had  time  to  look  about  him,  must  be  seen  to  be  credited.  This 
exercise  forms  the  amusement  of  their  earliest  years,  and  is  the 
neplus  ultra  of  their  education.  No  islander  can  take  a  wife 
until  he  is  able  to  withstand  the  attacks  of  any  old  wEu*rior 
whom  the  chief  of  his  tribe  may  appoint  to  try  him  ;  so  that 
this  condemnation  to  celibacy,  among  a  people  so  notoriously 
amorous,  contributes,  I  should  imagine,  more  than  any  other 
cause,  to  the  wonderful  perfection  at  which  they  have  arrived  in 
this  exercise. 

In  front  of  the  royal  residence  there  are  planted  thirty  pieces 
of  cannon ;  fifteen  on  each  side ;  chiefly  six  and  nine  pounders 


J»'.,J 


44        MOURNING  FOn  A  CHIIP's  WIFE— BILIY  PITT,  dcC. 


i* 


a  body-guard  of  hnndsomo  athletic  young  men  are  ntationcd 
cloM  to  tho  houic ;  two  of  whom  arc  placed  as  sontinelfl  at  the 
door,  and  are  rcHcved  with  as  much  regularity  as  at  any  garrison 
in  England.  In  the  daytime  their  muskets  gencrully  remain 
piled  before  tho  door,  but  are  taken  in  at  night.  Thes"  gardes- 
du-corpa  have  no  particular  dress  to  distinguish  them  from  civiN 
ians ;  and  nf\cr  the  amusements  just  mentioned  had  ended,  the 
king  ordered  them  to  go  through  tiie  manual  and  platoon  exer- 
cises ;  which,  considcrmg  the  limited  means  they  have  had  for 
learning,  they  performed  with  tolerable  precision. 

Shortly  after  quitting  this  noisy  and  bustling  scene  of  mirth 
and  festivity,  we  were  attracted  by  the  sounds  of  mourning 
voices,  to  a  large  house  in  a  retired  corner  of  the  village  ;  in 
front  of  which  sat  eight  women,  in  a  circle,  all  in  a  state  of  mtoxi* 
cation.  At  times  their  voices  died  away  to  a  low  mournful  tone ; 
when,  suddenly  changing,  they  vented  tho  wildest  and  most 
frantic  cries,  tearing  their  hair,  beating  their  breasts,  and  gnawing 
the  ends  of  their  fingers  :  in  the  intervals  they  moistened  their 
parched  throats  from  a  bottle  which  was  passed  round  from  one 
to  the  other;  andader  all  had  partaken  of  the  libation,  they  re- 
newed their  cries  with  redoubled  vigour.  Their  hanging  breasts, 
dishevelled  hair,  and  fierv  eyes,  presented  more  the  appearance 
of  furies  than  of  human  Ibeings ;  and  we  were  at  first  afraid  to 
approach  them,  apprehensive  of  an  attack  in  the  heicht  of  one 

ancl  they  would  injure  no  one  save  themselves.  On  inquiry, 
ascertained  that  the  dead  body  of  a  chief's  wife  of  the 
second  class  lay  in  an  adjoining  house,  and  that  these  women 
were  her  friends  and  relatives  mourning  her  death.  This  cere- 
mony, although  possessing  a  degree  of  rude  lachrymose  comi- 
cality, had  nothing  peculiarly  interesting,  and  we  quickly  left  the 
scene. 

Several  of  the  chiefs  ha\  ^  unctured  on  their  arms  the 
names  of  celebrated  Englirh  and  American  statesmen,  cap- 
tains of  ships,  &c.  At  the  race-course  I  obseived  Billy  Pitt, 
George  Washington,  and  Billy  Cobbett,  walking  together  in  the 
most  familiar  manner,  and  apparently  engaged  in  confidential 
conversation ;  while  in  the  centre  of  another  group,  Charley 
Fox,  Thomas  Jeflferson,  James  Madison,  Bonaparte,  and  Tom 
Paine,  were  to  be  seen  on  equally  friendly  terms  with  each 
other.  They  seem  to  be  proud  of  these  names,  and  generally 
prefer  them  to  their  own.  Krimacoo,  the  prime  minister,  is 
called  Billy  Pitt,  from  the  great  influence  he  possesses.  He  is 
consulted  by  the  king  on  all  subjects  of  importance ;  and  in 
cases  of  particular  emergency,  Mr.  Holmes  is  sent  for  to  give 
his  advice. 


.r^L. 


ger, 
we 


TAMAAIIMAAII — Tlir    ROnnANCF:. 


45 


CHAPTER  III. 

Ttmathmtah— Tho  Fooranoc— Curioiu  cimloin— FicklnnoM  in  dreit— Cht- 
ractor  of  nativoi — Important  ponitioriof  tlio  iilandu— Cow  huntin*— Com- 
pletoour  aupplioi — Tuko  a  number  of  ualivca— U«parlure— Now  aitcovar/ 
— Arriral  at  the  Columbia. 

FnoM  this  period  until  our  dcparturo  wc  were  honoured  with 
levcrul  visits  from  the  royal  family,  principally  connected  with 
the  business  of  procuring  our  supplies.  The  kmg  was  a  hard 
bargain  maker,  and  although  he  had  several  pipes  of  Madeira  in 
his  stores,  he  would  not  barter  a  single  article  until  he  obtained  a 

?uarter-ca8k  of  that  wine,  of  which  he  was  passionately  fond, 
le  was  by  no  meons  as  generous  as  many  ot  his  subjects,  and 
he  seldom  committed  an  act  of  liberality  without  having  a 
particular  object  in  view.  Ho  had  upwards  of  forty  small 
schooners  built  by  the  natives,  which  were  quite  useless  to 
him  from  their  ignorance  of  navigation  ;  and  when  he  made  the 
presents  which  I  have  already  mentioned  to  the  officers  who 
had  quarrelled  with  their  captains,  he  had  in  view  their  settling 

on  the  island,  and  availing  himself  of  their  services  in  teachina 
.1         .•       .  ^^  tUn„r^  ,.„„,.„i.      'ni  .  <_4^.^o  yji    iamaaii- 

iiiuuii  were  oiien  mnuenced  by  his  dreams  ;  one  of  which  gave 
rise,  while  we  remained  here,  to  an  extraordinary  proclamation, 
which  ordered,  that  during  the  space  of  one  day,  "  no  native 
should  leave  the  island  ;  and  that  no  dogs  should  bark,  hogs 
grunt,  or  cocks  crow  !"  This  whimsical  prohibition  was  strictly 
complied  with  by  the  islanders  ;  but  I  need  scarcely  state  that 
the  three  last-mentioned  classes  of  his  majesty's  subjects  did  not 
yield  it  the  same  ready  obedience.  This  was  called  a  dreaming 
tabco,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  established  ones,  which  occur  at 
stated  periods,  and  are  regulated  by  the  high-priest. 

At  this  time  Tamaahmaah  had  only  three  children  living,  two 
sons  and  one  daijghter.  They  were  rather  homely  in  their 
appearance,  and  afforded  a  bad  specimen  of  royal  beauty.  The 
eldest  son  was  about  twenty  years  of  age,  and  was  called  the 
Eooranee.  He  possessed  considerable  authority,  and  was  more 
feared  than  his  father,  though  not  so  much  beloved.  The  follow- 
ing anecdote  will  show  the  dread  in  which  he  was  held  by  the 
natives.  Some  of  the  men  engaged  in  the  Company's  employ- 
ment had  received  permission  to  spend  a  day  on  shore :  as  they 
did  not  return  that  night,  I  accompanied  Mr.  Clarke  the  following 
morning  in  search  of  them ;  and  after  wandering  about  for  some 
time  we  discovered  the  party  descending  a  hill  near  the  village, 


♦     i' 


46 


TUE   KOOnANEE. 


■':■% 


"^■. 


■■S" 


'■!! 


each  with  a  lass  under  his  arm,  their  hats  decorated  with  flowers, 
ribands,  and  handkerchiefs,  and  a  fifer  and  fiddler  at  their  head, 
playing  away  merrily.  They  were  all  nearly  "  half-seas  over," 
and  were  on  their  way  to  the  ship  when  they  perceived  us. 
They  insisted  in  an  humble  good-natured  manner  on  our  taking 
the  lead ;  and  as  we  were  anxious  to  get  them  on  board,  we 
accordingly  joined  them,  and  marched  on  at  their  head.  We 
had  not  proceeded  far  when  the  Eooranee  met  us,  and  he  ap- 
peared so  much  pleased  with  the  procession  that  he  fell  into  the 
ranks.  As  we  approached  the  wharf,  several  of  the  natives,  who 
had  been  drawn  by  the  sound  of  the  music  to  the  party,  retired 
on  seeing  the  young  prince ;  but  one  unfortunate  rascal,  who  was 
quite  drunk,  annoyed  us  as  we  passed  him,  by  pushing  us  and 
pulling  our  clothes  ;  and  as  the  king's  son  was  dressed  like  a 
European,  he  treated  him  in  the  same  manner ;  but  I  never  saw 
consternation  so  strongly  depicted  as  when  the  poor  wretch 
looked  up,  and  beheld  the  frowning  countenance  of  the  dreaded 
Eooranee  :  the  effect  was  instantaneous ;  he  fell  prostrate,  as  if 
thunderstruck,  and  remained  perfectly  motionless  until  we  lost 
sight  of  him.  We  however  did  not  part  with  the  prince  until 
he  had  promised  that  no  punishment  should  be  inflicted  on  the 
offending  Islander. 

The  male  branches  of  the  royal  family  are  held  in  peculiar 
veneration,  n.wxv.  ,.^.1  .  v  ->--:_  u.  j_  tu^  indiyiduah  with 
the  exception  of  the  domestics  specially  appointed  for  tnai  pur- 
pose, is  permitted  to  touch  that  part  of  their  sacred  person,  or 
any  covering  that  has  ever  been  on  it,  upon  pain  of  death.  My 
ignorance  of  this  law  was  near  embroiUng  me  in  a  serious 
scrape.  A  few  days  after  our  arrival,  while  strolling  on  the 
outskirts  of  the  village,  I  observed  an  individual  walliing  before 
me  dressed  in  a  handsome  green  frockcoat,  well-made  panta- 
loons, and  Hessian  boots,  followed  by  a  native  carrying  the  tail 
of  a  white  cow,  which  he  used  in  driving  away  the  flies  that 
annoyed  his  master.  As  I  was  given  to  understand  that  I  had 
been  introduced  to  all  the  white  men  of  respectability  on  the 
island,  I  felt  anxious  to  ascertain  who  this  important  personage 
was,  and  therefore  took  a  circuitous  turn  in  order  to  have  a  front 
view  of  him.  It  was  the  Eooranee.  He  called  me  to  him,  and 
we  sat  down  under  the  shade  of  some  plantain-trees.  He  then 
began  to  examine  my  clothes  very  minutely,  and  took  off  nriy 
hat,  which  was  a  handsome  one  of  Portuguese  willow.  While 
this  examination  was  going  on,  I  felt  a  desire  to  look  at  his, 
which  was  of  a  peculiarly  fine  texture,  and  therefore  uncovered 
the  head  of  his  highness  with  as  little  ceremony  as  he  had 
observed  towards  me  ;  but  I  had  scarcely  touched  the  forbidden 
covering  when  I  received  a  warm  soufiet  on  the  right  cheek 


fr 
I 

th 


^l' 


DEATH   OF  THE   KINd. 


47 


from  the  attendant.  Not  knowing  the  cause  of  this  aggression, 
1  determined  on  instant  retaliation,  and  seizing  a  stone,  was  in 
the  act  of  hurling  it  at  the  fellow's  head,  when  my  arm  was 
arrested  by  the  Eooranee,  who  begged  of  me,  in  broken  Eng- 
lish, to  desist,  and  at  the  same  time  turned  to  his  domestic,  whom 
he  reprimanded  with  marks  of  evident  displeasure,  after  which 
he  ordered  him  to  retire. 

While  this  was  going  on  I  observed  Anderson  the  armourer 
pass,  to  whom  I  related  the  circumstance.  The  king's  son  then 
spoke  to  him  for  some  time,  after  which  Anderson  told  me  that  if 
any  islander  had  committed  such  an  offence,  instant  death  would 
have  followed ;  and  added,  that  the  prince  begged  h^m  to  assure 
me  that  he  deeply  regretted  the  conduct  of  Tus  domestic,  who 
should  have  distinguished  between  a  stranger  and  a  native,  and 
that  he  had  dismissed  him  with  disgrace.  When  Anderson  had 
finished,  the  Eooranee  grasped  my  hand  in  the  most  friendly 
manner ;  and  a"  I  felt  satisfied  with  the  explanation  he  had  given, 
I  returned  its  pressure  with  equal  warmth.  At  this  peri^  the 
resident  white  people  looked  to  his  succession  with  considerable 
apprehension,  as  he  was  supposed  to  entertain  views  hostile  to 
their  interests.  They  might  have  been  led  to  form  this  conclu- 
sion from  his  distant  habits,  and  capricious  tyranny  towards  his 
immediate  followers. ;  but  I  am  happy  to  state  their  fears  were 
groundless ;  for  on  his  accession  to  the  supreme  power  at  his 
father's  death,  he  treated  them  with  marked  indulgence,  and  held 
out  the  greatest  encouragement  to  white  people  to  settle  on  the 
island.  The  day  afler  the  circumstance  above  detailed  I  met 
him  near  the  king's  house  in  a  state  of  nudity,  conversing  with 
some  of  the  guards,  and  the  same  evening  I  again  saw  him  in 
the  loose  light  dress  of  a  West  India  planter.  His  father  and 
himself  were  very  fickle  in  their  clothing.  I  saw  the  old  man 
one  day  in  the  full  dress  of  an  English  general,  which  had  been 
sent  to  him  by  his  late  majesty,  George  III. ;  but  he  felt  so  awk- 
ward in  the  cocked-hat,  boots,  &c.,  that  he  quickly  got  rid  of 
them,  and  a  few  hours  afterward  we  saw  him  lounging  about 
the  village,  sans  hat,  sans  coat,  sans  shirt,  sans  culottes,  sans 
every  thmg !  On  the  death  of  the  old  king  the  Eooranee  suc- 
ceeded by  the  title  of  Tamaahmaah  the  Second.*  At  the 
period  of  our  visit  they  knew  nothing  of  the  Christian  reli- 
gion ;  and  the  white  professors  of  it  who  were  resident  among 
them  were  badly  calculated  to  inculcate  its  divine  precepts. 
Since  then,  however,  thanks  to  the  indefatigable  and  praise- 
worthy exertions  of  the  missionaries,  this  rude,  but  noble-hearted 

*  This  unfortunate  prince  is  the  same  who,  with  his  young  queen,  lately  fell 
victims  to  misjudged  British  hospitality,  joined  to  a  climate  to  which  they  wero 
unaccustomed. 


:   if 


*- 


^ 


CHARACTER  OF  TIIE   NATIVES. 


i.v    -^ 


race  of  people,  have  been  rescued  from  their  diabolical  super- 
stitions, and  the  greater  part  of  them  now  enjoy  the  blessings  of 
Christianity. 

Cook,  Vancouver,  Perouse,  and  others,  have  already  written 
BO  ably  on  the  manners,  customs,  amusements,  laws,  religion, 
and  natural  productions  of  these  islands,  that  I  might  very  pro- 
bably subject  myself  to  the  charge  of  plagiarism,  or  book- 
makmg,  if  I  touched  on  them.  To  those  therefore  who  feel 
anxious  for  further  information  on  these  subjects,  I  would  recom- 
mend the  above  authorities,  in  which  they  will  have  their 
curiosity  amply  gratified. 

The  vice  of  thieving,  attributed  to  the  male  inhabitants,  is 
rather  exaggerated.  It  is  certainly  true  that  numbers  of  those 
who  visit  trading  ships  are  not  scrupulous  in  appropriating  to 
their  own  use  every  trifling  article  on  which  they  can  conve- 
niently lay  their  hands ;  but  it  should  be  observed  they  do  not 
consider  such  abstractions  in  the  same  light  as  if  they  robbed 
each  other.  This  circumstance  I  think  it  necessary  to  mention, 
without  attempting  to  justify  it ;  for  were  we  to  consider  all  their 
petty  thefls  in  the  same  point  of  view  that  we  are  accustomed 
to  regard  such  oflences  in  civilized  countries,  we  should  form  a 
very  poor  opinion  of  their  honesty. 

The  women,  too,  have  been  generally  accused  of  lascivious- 
ness ;  but  from  what  I  saw,  joined  to  the  information  I  obtained, 
I  am  induced  to  think  the  charge  too  general.  It  must,  indeed, 
be  admitted,  that  the  deportment  of  those  who  are  in  the  habit 
of  frequenting  trading  ships  is  not  calculated  to  impress  a 
stranger  with  a  high  idea  of  their  virtue  :  but  why  make  the 
censure  general  ?  If  a  native  of  Owhyee  were  to  form  his 
opinion  of  the  morality  of  our  countrywomen  from  the  disgusting 
conduct  of  the  unfortunate  females  who  crowd  our  seaports  and 
ships,  I  should  imagine  he  would  entertain  a  very  poor  estimate 
of  English  chastity.  In  the  interior  of  the  islands,  and  at  a  dis- 
tance from  seaports,  I  am  informed  that  in  the  relative  situations 
of  wife  and  mother,  their  conduct  is  irreproachable.  It  is  true 
that  in  the  places  at  which  ships  are  accustomed  to  touch,  a  uni- 
versal depravity  seems  to  pervade  all  classes  ;  for  it  is  no  uncom- 
mon sight  to  see  parents  bring  their  daughters,  brothers  their 
sisters,  and  husbands  their  wives,  to  earn  the  wages  of  prosti- 
tution. These  vices  cannot,  I  fear,  be  totally  eradicated ;  but  it 
is  pleasing  to  learn,  that  through  the  active  agency  of  the  mission- 
aries, their  frightful  predominancy  has  been  greatly  diminished. 
In  other  respects,  the  natives  are  brave,  active,  hospitable,  true 
to  their  word,  confiding,  cleanly  in  their  domestic  economy, 
easily  satisfied  at  their  meals,  obedient  to  proper  authority,  ex- 
cellent agriculturists,  quick  in  learning,  with  an  aptitude  fyr  im- 


■m 


POSITION   OF   THE   ISLANDS. 


49 


provement  that  is  really  astonishing ;  and  on  the  whole  I  would 
»ay  that  their  character  presents  a  fairer  field  for  success  to  the 
exertions  of  the  moral  cultivator  than  that  of  any  untutored 
people  whom  I  ever  met. 

Recent  events  seem  destined  to  place  the  Sandwich  Islands  in 
a  much  more  important  situation  on  the  political  map  of  the 
world  than  they  occupied  fifteen  or  twenty  years  ago.  While 
Spain  had  possession  of  Mexico,  California,  and  the  southern 
continent,  they  were  seldom  visited  but  by  fur  traders,  for  the 
purpose  of  refitting,  or  obtaining  fresh  provisions;  and  were 
regarded  by  the  world  more  as  objects  of  v^uriosity  than  as  places 
from  which  any  political  advantages  were  likely  to  be  derived. 
But  now  that  the  Mexicans  and  Southern  Americans  have  suc- 
ceeded in  emancipating  themselves  from  the  slothful  despotism 
of  their  ancient  rulers,  the  native  energies  of  their  character  will 
shortly  begin  to  develop  themselves ;  and  uncontrolled  by  the 
trammels  which  so  long  fettered  their  commercial  prosperity,  a 
few  years  may  see  their  fleets,  in  imitation  of  their  bold  and  en- 
terprising brethren  of  the  northern  continent,  ploughing  their 
way  through  the  Pacific,  and,  in  exchange  for  their  precious 
metals,  bringing  back  to  their  country  the  luxurious  productions 
of  China  and  the  Indies.  The  Sandwich  Islands  are  nearly 
equidistant  from  the  western  coast  of  Mexico  and  the  eastern 
boundaries  of  China,  and  consequently  lie  nearly  in  the  track  of 
vessels  passing  between  the  two  continents.  But  the  circum- 
stance of  all  others  calculated  to  raise  them  to  the  highest  degree 
of  importance,  is  the  stupendous  enterprise  lately  set  on  foot  of 
forming  a  junction  between  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic,  by  cutting 
a  canal  through  the  Isthmus  of  Darien.  If  this  magnificent 
undertaking  succeed,  the  long  and  dangerous  voyages  round 
Cape  Horn  and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  will  be  avoided,  and 
comparatively  short  and  safe  passages  made  to  the  western  coast 
of  America,  Japan,  China,  our  East  Indian  possessions,  &c. 

In  the  course  of  these  voyages,  particularly  to  the  East,  the 
Sandwich  Islands  must  be  touched  at  for  fresh  supplies,  or  at 
least  closely  passed.  In  either  case  they  will  become  an  impor- 
tant acquisition  to  a  maritime  power.  With  the  assistance  of 
science  they  can  be  rendered  impregnable  ;  and  when  we  take 
into  consideration  their  great  natural  capabilities  of  defence, 
their  noble  harbours,  productive  soil,  and  temperate  climate, 
joined  to  the  inoffensive  deportment  of  the  inhabitants,  we  may 
safely  conclude  that  their  present  state  of  independence  will  not 
be  of  long  duration.  It  is  probable  they  will  ultimately  become 
tributary  to  Great  Britain,  Russia,  or  America ;  and  in  the  event 
of  war  between  any  of  these  nations,  the  power  in  possession  of 
the  islands,  from  their  commanding  position,  will  be  able  during 


*' 


f^) 


cow   HUNTING. 


V, 


|i '   •!■■ 


the  continuation  of  hostilities  not  only  to  control  the  commerce 
of  the  Pacific,  but  also  neutralize  in  a  great  degree  the  advan- 
tages likely  to  be  derived  from  the  Grand  Junction  Canal. 

Several  of  our  domestic  quadrupeds  are  now  reared  on  the 
islands  ;  such  as  cows,  sheep,  goats,  and  horses.  The  last  are 
brought  from  California,  and  are  a  small  hardy  race.  The  cows 
at  Woahoo  are  the  descendants  of  those  left  there  by  our  navi- 
gators, and  are  perfectly  wild.  We  purchased  two  of  them  from 
the  king ;  and  he  ordered  upwards  of  one  hundred  men  of  his 
body-guard,  with  several  chiefs,  to  proceed  to  the  place  where 
the  ani'.jials  were  grazing,  to  assist  us  in  catching  those  we  bad 
bought.  It  was  situated  a  few  miles  from  the  village,  in  a  hand- 
some valley,  studded  with  cocoanut-trees ;  a  couple  of  hundred 
additional  natives  volunteered  io  join  us.  They  proceeded  cau- 
tiously in  the  first  instance,  until  they  surrounded  the  herd,  which 
they  succeeded  in  driving  into  an  enclosure.  One  more  expert 
than  the  rest  then  advanced  under  the  cover  of  some  irees  with 
a  long  rope,  at  the  end  of  which  was  a  running  noose.  Having 
quietly  waited  for  some  time  until  a  proper  opportunity  offered, 
he  at  length  threw  the  rope,  and  succeeded  in  catching  a  young 
cow.  On  feeling  the  noose  round  her  neck,  she  became  quite 
furious,  and  made  a  desperate  plunge  at  him,  which  he  skilfully 
avoided  by  running  up  a  cocoanut-tree ;  having  previously  fast- 
ened one  end  of  the  rope  round  the  trunk.  We  had  intrenched 
ourselves  with  the  chiefs  behind  a  stone  wall,  close  to  the  herd  ; 
and  being  apprehensive  that  the  captive  might  break  loose,  we 
fired  and  shot  her.  Upon  hearing  the  report,  the  herd  i  ushed 
furiously  out  of  the  enclosure  and  ran  at  the  natives ;  but  as 
they  had  anticipated  such  a  result,  each  man  secured  a  retreat 
behind  a  tree ;  and  in  a  moment  after  the  furious  animals  had 
gained  their  freedom  three  hundred  cocoanut-trees  might  have 
been  seen,  each  manned  with  a  native,  who  looked  down  with 
the  full  confidence  of  security  on  the  enraged  herd  below. 
Finding  it  impossible  to  catch  another,  we  were  obliged  to  fire 
among  them,  and  killed  a  second.  A  few  shots  without  ball 
were  then  discharged,  which  drove  them  to  their  own  pasture, 
and  enabled  the  natives  to  descend.  The  king  preserved  these 
cattle  for  the  purpose  of  bartering  with  ships  touching  there  for 
provisions ;  and  although  he  killed  none  for  the  royal  table,  he 
very  condescendingly  accepted  from  us  a  present  of  a  sirloin. 

As  we  intended  to  engage  some  of  the  natives  for  the  Com- 
pany's service  at  the  Columbia,  and  as  the  captain  also  required 
some  to  assist  in  working  the  ship  (several  of  the  crew  being 
indifferent  sailors),  he  demanded  permission  from  Tamaahmaan 
to  engage  the  number  that  should  be  deemed  nf  ,essary :  this 
was  at  once  granted ;  and  Messrs.  Holmes  and  Maninna  were 


COMPLETION   or   STORES DISCOVEHY. 


61 


requested  to  act  as  recruiting  sergeants  on  the  occasion,  which 
duty  they  kindly  undertook  to  perform.  On  the  intelligence 
beine  announced,  the  vessel  was  crowded  with  numbers,  all 
offer.ng  to  •*  take  on."  With  the  assistance  of  the  above  gentle- 
men we  selected  twenty-six  of  the  most  able-bodied  of  these 
volunteers :  sixteen  for  the  Company's  service,  and  ten  for  the 
ship's.  We  agreed  to  pay  each  man  ten  dollars  a  month,  and  a 
suit  of  clothes  annually.  An  old  experienced  islander,  who 
was  called  Boatswain  Tom,  and  who  had  made  several  voyages 
both  to  Europe  and  America,  was  engaged  to  command  them  : 
he  got  fifteen  dollars  a  month,  and  was  to  have  the  sole  control 
of  his  countrymen.  Several  of  the  females  also  volunteered  to 
accompany  u.  but  we  were  obliged  to  decline  their  kind  offers. 
Mr.  Wadswortti,  of  whom  I  have  already  spoken,  was  "-.Iso 
engaged  for  the  Company's  service,  to  act  as  an  officer  on  sea  or 
land,  as  occasion  should  require.  He  brough*  his  lady  with 
him,  not  being  accustomed,  as  he  declared,  to  live  in  a  state  of 
single  blessedness. 

On  the  5th  of  April  we  got  all  our  supplies  on  board.  They 
consisted  of  sixty  hogs,  two  boats  full  of  sugarcane  to  feed 
them,  some  thousand  cocoanuts,  with  as  much  bananas,  plan- 
tains,, taro,  melons,  &c.,  as  could  be  conveniently  stowed  in  the 
ship.  The  same  evening  we  took  leave  of  the  king  and  royal 
family,  and  bade  adieu  to  our  kind  white  friends  ;  after  which 
we  embarked  ;  and  on  the  following  morning,  Tuesday,  April 
the  6th,  we  weighed  anchor  and  set  sail  for  the  Columbia. 
Krikapooree,  the  king's  nephew,  and  several  young  chiefs, 
accompanied  us  three  or  four  leagues  from  land,  and  took  leave 
of  us  with  tears  in  their  eyes.  The  addition  we  received  to  our 
numbers  in  live-stock,  joined  to  the  cargo  of  fruit,  &c.,  lumbered 
our  deck  greatly  and  annoyed  the  crew  in  working  the  ship. 
When  any  number  of  the  natives  were  wanted  to  perform  a  par- 
ticular duty,  word  was  passed  to  Boatswain  Tom ;  who,  to  do 
him  justice,  betrayed  none  of  the  softer  feelings  of  national  par- 
tiality to  his  countrymcii.  The  moment  he  gave  "  the  dreadful 
word"  it  was  followed  by  a  horrid  yell ;  and  with  a  rope's  end 
he  laid  on  the  back  and  shoulders  of  every  poor  devil  who  did 
not  happen  to  be  as  alert  as  he  wished,  accompanied  by  a  laugh- 
able melange  of  curses  in  broken  English,  and  imprecations  in 
his  own  language. 

We  had  tolerably  good  easterly  breezes,  and  nothing  particu- 
lar occurred  until  the  18th,  at  four  p.  m.,  \,  hen  a  man  ahead  cried 
out  "Land  on  the  weather-bow!"  As  we  were  then  not  more 
than  half-way  between  the  islands  and  the  American  continent, 
we  eagerly  rushed  on  deck  to  feast  our  eyes  with  a  view  of  our 
new  discovery. 


DISCOVEIIY — DISAPPOINTMENT. 


H^-^ 


After  looking  at  it  for  ^ome  time  very  attentively  through  hia 
glass,  the  captain  pronounced  it  to  be  an  island,  with  a  dark-brown 
soil,  and  apparently  destitute  of  vegetation;  and  added,  with 
marks  of  evident  exultation,  that  he  always  felt  certain  we 
should  fall  in  with  unknown  islands  in  these  latitudes  (about  35° 
north);  and  in  that  expectation  had  diverged  materially  from  the 
usual  course  of  vessels  proceeding  to  the  North-west  Coast.  We 
now  sounded,  but  get  no  bottom  with  one  hundred  fathoms:  and 
while  this  was  going  on  we  were  all  busy  in  forming  conjectures 
respecting  this  terra  incognita.  The  first  thing  to  be  decided  on 
was  the  name.  One  thought  that  Mr.  ^«tor,  being  the  owner  of 
the  ship,  and  the  founder  of  the  company,  had  the  best  claim, 
and  therefore  moved  that  it  be  called  "Astor's  Island:"  this  having 
been  seconded,  an  amendment  was  moved  by  another  person, 
who  argued  that  the  ship  had  a  prior  right  to  the  honour, 
and  stated  he  would  have  it  called  "  Beaver  ls]a.nd  :"  the  amend- 
ment having  been  seconded,  was  about  to  be  put,  when  the 
captain  declared  that,  fond  as  he  was  of  his  ship,  and  highly 
as  he  respected  his  owner,  he  thought  the  claims  of  their 
President  superior  to  either,  and  that  he  would  therefore,  with- 
out consulting  the  v/ishes  of  any  one,  call  it"  Madison's  Island." 
Although  there  were  few  admirers  of  the  president  on  board, 
the  captain's  decision  settled  the  controversy ;  for  on  such  occa- 
sions he  is  always  the  high-oriest.  Mr.  Clarke  said,  if  it  proved 
anywise  fruitful,  he  would  colonize  it,  and  appoint  Wadsworth, 
with  his  island  beauty,  king  and  queen.  Some  hoped  the 
inhabitants  would  not  be  afraid  of  white  men;  while  others 
cursed  the  inhabitants,  particularly  the  females,  and  expressed  a 
wish  that  the  new  discovery  would  contain  some  cooling  simples. 
In  the  mean  time,  we  kept  standing  under  easy  sail  for  this  un- 
known paradise;  but  in  proportion  as  we  advanced  the  hills 
seemed  to  ascend,  and  blend  their  craggy  summits  with  the 

{)assing  clouds:  a  pale  bright  opening  appeared  to  divide  the 
and:  and  the  sad  conviction  was  at  length  forced  on  us,  tbdt 
Madison's  Island  was  based  on  a  nebulous  foundation:  in  fact,  it 
turned  out  what  sailors  call  "  a  Cape  Flyaway  island ;"  and  all 
our  glorious  speculations  dissolved  literally  in  nubihus. 

This  disappointment  chagrined  us  much;  but  none  felt  it  more 
sansiMy  than  the  captain,  who  was  quite  chapfallen  on  the  occa- 
sion. However,  on  the  1st  of  May,  we  made  the  real  terra  firma 
in  lat.  41°  N.,  Cape  Orford  in  sight.  We  coasted  along-shore 
imtil  the  5th,  when  we  had  the  happiness  of  beholding  the 
entrance  of  the  long-wished-for  Columbia,  which  empties  itself 
into  the  Pacific  in  lat.  46°  19'  N.,  and  long.  124°  W.  Light  baf- 
fling winds,  joined  to  the  captain's  timidity,  obliged  us  to  stand 
off  and  on  until  the  8th,  on  which  day  we  descried  a  white  flag 


VISITS  FROM   SnORB. 


68 


hoisted  on  Cape  Disappointment,  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
land  at  the  entrance  of  the  river.  A  large  fire  was  also  kept 
burning  on  the  cape  all  night,  which  served  as  a  beacon.  A  dan- 
gerous bar  runs  across  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia ;  the  channel 
for  crossing  it  is  on  the  northern  side  close  to  the  cape,  and  is 
very  narrow,  and  from  thence  to  the  opposite  point  on  the  south- 
ern side,  which  is  called  Point  Adams,  extends  a  chain  or  reef 
of  rocks  and  sandbanks,  over  which  the  dreadful  roaring  of  the 
mighty  waters  of  the  Columbia,  in  forcing  their  passage  to  the 
ocean,  is  heard  for  miles  distant. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  9th,  Mr.  Rhodes  was  ordered  out 
in  the  cutter,  on  the  perilous  duty  of  sounding  the  channel  of  the 
ba/,  and  placing  the  buoys  necessary  for  the  safe  guidance  of  the 
ship.     While  he  was  performing  this  duty  we  fired  several  guns; 
and,  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  were  delighted  with 
hearing  the  report  of  three  cannon  from  the  shore  in  answer  to 
ours.    Towards  noon  an  Indian  canoe  was  discovered  making  for 
us,  and  a  few  moments  after  a  barge  was  perceived  following  it. 
Various  were  the  hopes  and  fears  by  which  we  were  agitated,  as 
we  waited  in  anxious  expectation  the  arrival  of  the  strangers  from 
whom  we  were  to  learn  the  fate  of  our  predecessors,  and  of  the 
party  who  had  crossed  the  continent.     Vague  rumours  had 
reached  the  Sandwich  Islands  from  a  coasting  vessel,  that  the 
Tonquin  had  been  cut  oflf  by  the  Indians,  and  every  soul  on  board 
destroyed ;  and,  since  we  came  in  sight  of  the  river,  the  captain's 
ominous  forebodings  had  almost  prepared  the  weaker  part  of  our 
people  to  hear  that  some  dreadful  fatality  had  befallen  our  infant 
establishmehi.     Not  even  the  sound  of  the  cannon,  and  the  sight 
of  the  flag  and  fire  on  the  cape  were  proofs  strong  enough  to 
shake  his  doubts.    "An  old  bird  was  not  to  be  caught  with 
chaff:"  he  was  too  well  acquainted  with  Indian  cunning  and 
treachery  to  be  deceived  by  such  appearances.     It  was  possible 
enough  that  the  savages  might  have  surprised  the  fort,  murdered 
its  inmates,  seized  the  property,  fired  the  cannon  to  induce  us  to 
cross  the  bar,  which,  when  once  effected,  they  could  easily  cut 
us  off  before  we  could  get  out  again.    He  even  carried  his  cau- 
tion so  far  as  to  order  a  party  of  armed  men  to  be  in  readiness 
to  receive  our  visiters.    The  canoe  arrived  first  alongside :  in  it 
was  an  old  Indian,  blind  of  an  eye,  who  appeared  to  be  a  chief, 
with  six  others,  nearly  naked,  a:.d  the  most  repulsive-looking 
beings  that  ever  disgraced  the  fair  form  of  humanity.     The  only 
intelligence  we  could  obtain  from  them  was,  that  the  people  in 
the  barge  were  white  like  ourselves,  and  had  a  house  on  shore. 
A  few  minutes  afterward  it  came  alongside,  and  dissipated  all 
our  fearful  dreams  of  murder,  &c.,  and  we  had  the  delightful,  the 
inexpressible  pleasure  of  shaking  hands  with  Messrs.  Duncan 


'    i 


■  7 
I 


l^f  il 


M 


LANDING. 


M'Dongall  and  Donald  M'Lenniin;  the  former  a  partner,  and 
the  latter  a  clerk  of  the  Company,  with  eight  Canadian  boat- 
men. After  our  congratulations  were  over,  they  informed  ug, 
that  on  receiving  intelligence  the  day  before  from  the  Indians 
that  a  ship  was  oil'  the  river,  they  came  down  from  the  fort,  a 
distance  of  twelve  miles,  to  Cape  Disappointment,  on  which  they 
hoisted  the  flag  we  had  seen,  and  set  fire  to  several  trees  to  serve 
in  lieu  of  a  lighthouse. 

The  tide  was  now  making  in,  and  as  Mr.  Rhodes  had  returned 
from  placing  the  buoys,  Mr.  M'Lennan,  who  was  well  acquainted 
with  the  channel,  took  charge  of  the  ship  as  pilot;  and  at  half- 
past  two  p.  M.,  we  crossed  the  bar,  on  which  we  struck  twice 
without  sustaining  any  injury ;  shortly  after  which  we  dropped 
anchor  in  Baker's  Bay,  after  a  tedious  voyage  of  six  months  and 
twenty-two  days.  Mr.  M'Dougall  informed  us  that  the  one-eyed 
Indian  who  had  preceded  him  in  the  canoe  was  the  principal 
chief  of  the  Chinook  nation,  who  reside  on  the  northern  side  of 
the  river  near  its  mouth  ;  that  his  name  was  Comcomly,  and  that 
he  was  much  attached  to  the  whites  :  we  therefore  made  him  a 
present,  and  gave  some  trifling  articles  to  his  attendants,  afler 
which  they  departed. 


sd 
cl 
b| 
al 
hi 


Pi 
dj 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Account  of  the  Tonquin — Loss  of  her  chief  niatei  seven  men,  and  two  boats- 
— Extraordinary  escape  of  Weekes — Erection  of  Astoria — Mr.  Thompson 
of  the  N.  W.  Company — Arrival  of  Messrs.  Hunt  and  Mackenzie,  and 
sketch  of  their  journey  ovsr-land. 

After  the  vessel  was  securely  moored.  Captain  Sowles  joined 
our  party,  and  we  took  our  leave  of  the  good  ship  Beaver  ;  in 
which,  after  a  voyage  of  six  months  and  three  weeks,  we  had 
travelled  upwards  of  twenty  thousand  miles. 

In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  the  Company's  establishment, 
which  was  called  Fort  Astoria,  in  honour  of  Mr.  Astor.  Here 
we  found  five  proprietors,  nine  clerks,  and  ninety  artisans  and 
canoj-men,  or,  as  they  are  commonly  called  in  the  Indian  coun- 
try, voyageurs.  We  brought  an  addition  of  ^hirty-six,  including 
the  islanders;  so  that  our  muster-roll,  including  officers,  &c. 
amounted  to  one  hundred  and  forty  men. 

The  accounts  which  we  received  from  our  friends  at  Astoria 
were  highly  discouraging  as  to  our  future  prospects,  and  deeply 
melancholy  as  tO  the  past.    But  that  my  readers  may  under- 


ACCOUNT  OP  ma  tonqvin. 


stand  the  situation  of  affairs  at  tlic  time  of  our  arrival,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  take  a  short  retrospect  of  the  transactions  that 
occurred  aiitecedent  to  that  period. 

The  ship  Tonquin,  to  whicii  I  have  alluded  in  the  introduction, 
sailed  from  New- York  on  the  6th  September,  1810.  She  was 
commanded  by  Captain  Jonathan  Thorn,  a  gentleman  who  had 
been  formerly  a  first  lieutenant  in  the  navy  of  the  United  States ; 
and  while  in  that  service,  during  their  short  war  with  Algiers, 
had  distinguished  himself  as  a  bold  and  daring  officer.  His 
manners  were  harsh  and  arbitrary,  with  a  strong  tincture  of  that 
peculiar  species  of  American  amor  patrice,  the  principal  ingre- 
dient of  which  is  a  marked  antipathy  to  Greai  Britam  ai:<.  its 
subjects. 

Four  partners,  namely,  INIessrs.  Alexander  M'Kay,  Duncan 
M'Dougall,  David  and  Robert  Stuart,  embarked  in  her,  with 
eight  clerks,  and  a  numbci-  of  artisans  find  voyageurs,  all  destined 
for  the  Company's  establishment  at  the  Columbia.  Those  gen- 
tlemen were  all  British  subjects ;  and,  although  engaged  with 
Americans  in  a  commercial  speculation,  and  sailing  under  the 
flag  of  the  United  States,  were  sincerely  attached  to  their  king  and 
the  country  of  their  birth.  Their  patriotism  was  no  recommen- 
dation to  Captain  Thorn,  who  adopted  every  means  in  his  power 
to  annoy  and  thwart  them.  To  any  person  who  has  been  et  sea 
it  is  unnecessary  to  mention  how  easy  it  is  for  one  of  those  nau 
tical  despots  to  play  the  tyrant,  and  the  facilities  which  their  situ* 
tion  affords,  and  of  which  they  too  often  avail  themselves,  of 
harassing  every  one  who  is  nof.  slavishly  subservient  to  thsir 
wishes. 

Messrs.  M'Kay,  M'lougall,  and  the  Stuarts,  had  too  much 
Highland  blood  in  their  veins  to  submit  patiently  to  the  haughty 
and  uncivil  treatment  of  the  captain ;  and  the  consequence  was, 
a  series  of  quarrels  and  disagreeable  recriminations,  not  merely 
in  the  cabin,  but  on  the  quarter-deck. 

They  touched  at  the  Falkland  Islands  foi-  a  supply  of  water ; 
and  while  Mr.  David  Stuart  and  Mr.Franchere,with  aparty,  were 
on  shore,  the  captain,  without  any  previous  intimation,  suddenly 
gave  orders  to  weigh  .  ..chor,  and  stood  out  to  sea,  leaving  the 
party  on  one  of  the  most  desert  and  uninhabitable  islands  in  the 
world.  The  gentlemen  on  board  expostulated  in  vain  against 
this  act  of  tyrannic  cruelty,  when  Mr.  Robert  Stuert,  nephew  to 
the  gentleman  who  had  been  left  on  shore,  seized  a  brace  of  pis- 
tols, and  presenting  one  at  the  captain's  head,  threatened  to  blow 
out  his  brains  if  he  did  not  instantly  order  the  ship  to  lay  to 
and  wait  for  his  uncle's  party.  Most  part  of  the  crew  and  offi- 
cers witnessed  this  scene  ;  and  as  they  appeared  to  sympathize 
deeply  with  young  Stuart,  the  captain  thought  it  more  prudent 


■.  i 


'      M 


/^/ 


56 


MELANOIIULY   ACCIDENT. 


F  i 


■/  '■ 


!'     ( 


■■■■■  i 


to  submit,  and  gave  orders  accordingly  to  shorten  sail  and  wait 
the  arrival  of  Mr.  Stuart's  party. 

The  determined  resolution  evinced  by  young  Mr.  Stuart  on 
this  occasion,  and  the  apparent  apathy  of  his  officers,  who 
stood  nuietly  by  while  a  pistol  was  presented  to  his  head,  were 
never  forgiven  by  Captain  Thorn. 

The  Tonquin  doubled  Cape  Horn  in  safety,  and  arrived  in 
the  middle  of  February  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  from  which 
place  they  took  ten  natives  for  the  establishment,  and  sailed  for 
the  coast  on  the  1st  of  March. 

On  the  23d  of  March  they  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia ;  and  although  it  blew  a  stiff  breeze,  the  captain  ordered 
Mr.  Fox,  the  chief  mate,  with  two  American  sailors  and  two 
Canadian  voyageurs,  to  proceed  in  the  long-boat  towards  the 
bar,  for  the  purpose  of  sounding  the  channel. 

From  the  threatening  appearance  of  the  sky  and  the  violence 
of  the  gale,  Mr.  M'Kay  thought  this  a  most  hazardous  under- 
taking, and  implored  Captain  Thorn  to  postpone  it  until  the 
weather  became  more  moderate.  His  orders  however  were 
peremptory;  and  finding  all  remonstrance  useless,  Mr.  Fox 
with  his  little  crew  embarked,  and  proceeded  to  fulfil  his 
instructions.  That  unfortunate  officer  seemed  to  have  a  pre- 
sentiment of  his  approaching  fate,  for  on  quitting  the  vessel  he 
took  an  affectionate  farewell  of  all  his  friends ;  to  some  of 
whom  he  mentioned  he  was  certain  they  would  never  see  him 
again.  His  prediction  was  verified  ;  but  we  could  never  ascer- 
tain correctly  the  particulars  of  their  fate.  It  is  supposed, 
however,  that  the  tide  setting  in,  joined  to  the  violence  of  the 
wind,  drove  the  boat  among  the  breakers,  where  it  and  its 
unfortunate  crew  must  have  been  dashed  to  pieces. 

The  ship  stood  off  and  on  during  the  24th,  and  on  the  25th, 
the  wind  having  moderated,  she  stood  in  for  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment. Mr.  Aikin,  one  of  the  officers,  accompanied  by  Weekes, 
the  smith,  Coles,  the  sailmaker,  and  two  Sandwich  islanders, 
were  sent  ahead  in  the  jolly-boat  to  ascertain  the  lowest  depth 
of  water  in  the  channel  ;  the  ship  in  the  mean  time  following 
afler,  under  easy  sail.  Aikin  reported  by  signal  that  there  was 
water  sufficient ;  upon  which  the  captain  ordered  all  sail  to  be 
crowded,  and  stood  in  for  the  bar.  The  jolly-boat  was  now 
ordered  to  fall  back  and  join  the  ship  ;  but  having  unfortunately 
got  too  far  to  the  southward,  it  was  drawn  within  the  influence 
of  the  current,  and  carried  with  fearful  rapidity  towards  th" 
breakers.  It  passed  ithin  pistol  shot  of  the  vessel,  its  devoted 
crew  crying  out  in  the  wildest  accents  of  despair  for  assistance. 
This,  however,  was  impossible,  for  at  that  moment  the  Tonquin 
struck  on  the  bar  ;  and  the  apprehension  of  instant  destruction 


IXTBAOBDOfARY  KBCAPB  OF  WCEXBS. 


Erecluded  the  possibility  of  making  any  attcmnt  to  save  the  jolly* 
oat)  which  by  this  time  was  carried  out  ot  sight.  The  wind 
now  moderated  to  a  gentle  breeze ;  but  owing  to  the  tide  setting 
out  strongly,  the  water  became  so  low  that  the  ship  struck  seve* 
ral  times ;  and  to  add  to  the  horror  of  their  situation,  they  were 
(juickly  surrounded  by  the  darkness  of  night.  During  an  awful 
interval  of  three  hours  the  sea  beat  over  the  vessel ;  and  at 
times  some  of  the  crew  imagined  they  heard  the  screams  of 
their  lost  companions  borne  by  the  night  winds  over  the  foaming 
billows  of  tho  bar.  A  little  after  twelve  o'clock,  however,  the 
tide  set  in  strongly,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  westward  ;  and 
all  hands  having  set  to  work,  they  providentially  succeeded  in 
extricating  themselves  from  their  perilous  situation,  and  worked 
the  chip  in  Baker's  Bay,  inside  Cape  Disappointment,  where  they 
found  a  safe  asylum.  It  blew  a  perfect  gale  the  remainder  of 
the  night. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th  some  of  the  natives  came  on 
board.  They  appeared  to  be  very  friendly,  and  betrayed  no 
symptoms  of  fear  or  distrust.  Parties  were  immediately  des* 
patched  towards  the  northern  shore,  and  round  the  cape,  in  order 
to  ascertain,  if  possible,  the  fate  of  the  two  boats. 

Shortly  after  one  of  them  returned,  accompanied  by  Weekes, 
who  gave  the  following  account  of  his  miraculous  escape  from  a 
watery  grave.  "  When  we  passed  the  vessel,  the  boat,  owing 
to  the  wont  of  a  ruddor,  became  quite  unmanageable,  and  not« 
withstanding  all  our  exertions,  we  were  carried  into  the  northern 
edge  of  the  great  chain  of  breakers.  The  tide  and  current, 
however,  were  setting  out  so  strongly  that  we  were  absolutely 
carried  through  the  reef  without  sustaming  any  injury,  but  imme- 
diately on  the  outer  edge  a  heavy  sea  struck  us,  and  the  boat 
was  upset.  Messrs.  Aikin  and  Coles  disappeared  at  once,  and  I 
never  saw  them  afterward.  On  recovering  my  first  shock,  I 
found  myself  close  to  the  Sandwich  islanders,  who  had  stripped 
off  their  clothes  with  extraordinary  despatch.  We  all  seized 
the  boat,  and  after  much  difficulty  succeeded  in  righting  it.  We 
then  got  out  a  little  of  the  water,  which  enabled  one  of  the 
islanders  to  enter  the  boat,  and  he  quickly  bailed  out  the  re- 
mainder. His  companion  also  recovered  the  oars,  and  we  then 
embarked.  I  endeavoured  to  persuade  the  two  poor  islanders 
to  row,  well  knowing  the  e:  ertion  would  keep  them  alive  ;  but 
it  was  quite  useless,  they  were  so  spent  from  fatigue,  and  be- 
numbed by  the  cold,  that  they  refused  to  do  any  thing,  ani 
threw  themselves  down  in  the  boat,  apparently  resigned  to  meei 
their  fate.  I  had  no  notion,  however,  of  giving  up  my  life  in 
that  manner,  and  therefore  pulled  away  at  the  oars  with  all  my 
strength.    About  midnight,  one  of  my  unfortunate  companion" 

O 


4:  ! 


FORT   ASTORIA — ■XOURIIOIV. 


f 


died,  Olid  hit  surviving  countryman  flung  himself  on  the  body, 
from  which  I  found  it  im[K)8Bihlc  to  ditiMgo  him.  I  continued 
hard  at  work  during  tUo  night,  taking  care  to  keep  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  bar,  and  at  dayliglit  found  myself  close  to  a  sandv 
beach,  on  which  the  surf  beat lieavily.  I  was  nearly  exhausted, 
and  therefore  determined  to  run  all  risks  to  get  ashore.  I  for- 
tunatcly  succeeded,  and  ran  the  boat  on  the  beach.  I  then 
assisted  the  islander,  who  hud  some  signs  of  life  still  in  him,  to 
land  ;  but  the  poor  fellow  was  too  weak  to  follow  me.  I  wai 
therefore  obliged  to  leave  him,  and  shortly  aller  fell  on  a  well- 
beaten  path,  which  in  a  few  hours  brought  mo  in  sight  of  tho 
ship,  when  I  met  the  party  who  conducted  me  on  board. 
Thanks  to  the  Almighty  for  my  wonderful  escape  I" 

The  people  who  went  in  search  of  the  surviving  islander  did 
not  find  him  until  the  following  morning,  when  they  discovered 
him  in  a  deplorable  state,  close  to  some  rocks.  They  carried 
liim  to  the  ship ;  and  in  a  few  days,  by  the  proper  andf  humane 
treatment  of  Mr.  Franchere,  he  was  perfectly  restored  to  hii 
health. 

Some  time  was  occupied  alitor  their  arrival  in  looking  out  for 
a  proper  place  to  build  their  fort ;  and  at  length,  on  the  12th  of 
April,  they  selected  a  handsome  and  commanding  situation,  called 
Point  George,  twelve  miles  from  the  caj)e,  and  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river.  The  keel  of  a  schooner  of  thirty  tons'  burden 
was  also  laid  at  the  same  time,  the  skeleton  of  which  had  been 
brought  out  from  New-York. 

During  the  month  of  May,  Messrs.  M'Kay,  Stuart,  Franchere, 
and  Matthews  made  several  excursions  up  the  river  as  far  as  the 
first  rapids,  in  which  they  were  well  received  by  the  natives, 
from  whom  they  collected  a  quantity  of  furs. 

It  having  been  arranged  that  the  Tonquin  was  to  make  a 
coasting  excursion  as  far  as  Cook's  River,  and  touch  at  the  vari- 
ous harbours  between  that  place  and  the  Columbia,  she  weighed 
anchor  on  the  first  of  June,  and  dropped  down  to  Baker's  Bay. 
Mr.  M'Kay,  and  Mr.  Lewis,  one  of  the  clerks,  embarked  in  her 
for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a  correct  knowledge  of  the  various 
tribes  on  the  coast,  it  being  intended  that  after  her  cruise  to  the 
northward  the  ship  was  to  return  to  the  Columbia,  take  what 
furs  they  might  have  purchased  during  her  absence,  which  the 
captain  was  to  dispose  of  in  Canton,  from  whence  he  was  to 
return  to  New- York  with  a  cargo  of  Chinese  goods. 

Mr.  Mumford,  the  chief  mate,  in  consequence  of  a  dispute 
with  Captain  Thorn,  refused  to  proceed  farther  with  him,  and 
was  engaged  by  the  Company  to  take  the  command  of  the  little 
schooner  when  finished. 


ABRivAM — NiMTs  rROM  tUM  unrinioR. 


00 


3d, 


I 


The  Tonquin  took  her  finnl  departure  from  the  Columbia  on 
te  5th  of  June,  with  a  fuir  wind,  and  passed  the  bar  in  safety. 

In  the  month  of  July,  Mr.  David  Ihompson,  astronomer  to 
the  Northwest  Company,  of  which  he  was  also  a  proprietor, 
arrived  with  nine  men  m  a  canoe  at  Astoria,  from  the  interior. 
This  gentleman  came  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  Columbia* 
preparatory  to  the  Northwest  Company  forming  a  settlement 
at  the  entrance  of  the  river.  He  remamcd  ut  Astoria  until  the 
latter  end  of  July,  when  ho  took  his  departure  for  the  interior ; 
Mr.  David  Stuart,  with  three  clerks  and  a  party  of  Canadians, 
accompanying  him,  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  a  prop)er  place 
on  the  upper  parts  of  the  river  for  a  trading  establishment. 

Early  in  the  month  of  August  n  party  of  Indians  from  Gray'g 
Harbour  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  for  the  purpose 
of  fishing.  They  told  the  Chinooks  that  the  Tonquin  had  been 
cut  off  by  one  of  the  northern  tribes,  and  that  every  soul  on 
board  had  been  massacred.  This  intelligence  was  nut  at  first 
believed ;  but  several  other  rumours  of  a  similar  nature  having 
reached  Astoria,  caused  considerable  uneasiness,  particularly  as 
the  month  passed  away  without  any  nows  of  a  satisfactory 
nature  having  been  received. 

During  the  mot  h  of  September,  the  people  at  the  fort  were 
kept  in  a  state  of  'bveriah  alarm  by  various  reports  of  an  inten< 
tion  on  the  part  of  the  natives  to  surprise  and  destroy  them. 
October  commenced,  and  the  period  fixed  for  the  return  of  the 
Tonquin  had  long  since  elapjed,  still  no  intelligence  of  her  arrival, 
with  the  exception  of  farther  reports  of  her  destruction,  accom- 
panied  by  additional  evidence,  of  a  nature  so  circumstantial  ai 
to  leave  little  doubt  but  that  some  di  mdiiil  fatality  had  occurred. 

On  the  5th  of  October,  Messrs.  Pillet  and  M'Lennan,  two  of 
the  clerks  who  had  gone  to  the  interior  with  Mr.  D.  Stuart, 
returned  to  Astoria,  accompanied  by  a  free  hunter  named  Bru- 
guier,  and  two  Iroquois  hunters.  They  stated  that  Mr.  Stuart 
had  chosen  a  place  for  a  trading  post  about  seven  hundred  miles 
up  the  Columbia,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  called  Oakinagan,  and 
among  a  friendly  tribe,  who  appeared  to  be  well  furnished  with 
beaver.  About  this  period  the  schooner  was  completed  and 
launched.  She  was  called  the  Dolbj,  in  honour  of  Mrs.  Astor  ; 
and  as  provisions  at  the  fort  became  scarce,  she  was  despatched 
up  the  river  for  a  supply,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  R.  Stuart 
and  Mr.  Mumford. 

The  dark  and  dismal  months  of  November  and  December 
rolled  over  their  heads  without  bringing  them  any  certain  intel- 
ligence of  the  Tonquin.  During  this  period  it  rained  incessantly; 
and  the  Indians  had  withdrawn  themselves  from  the  banks 


OVER-LAMD  JOVBNBY. 


!l» 


of  the  Columbia  to  their  winter-quarters  in  the  sheltered  recessei 
of  the  forests,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  springs  or  small  rivulets. 

They  continued  in  this  state  of  disagreeable  anxiety  until  the 
18th  of  January,  1812,  when  their  drooping  spirits  were  some- 
what raised  by  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Donald  M'Kenzie,  with  two 
canoes  from  the  interior.  This  gentleman  was  accompanied  by 
Mr  M'Lellan,  a  proprietor,  Mr.  Read,  a  clerk,  and  ten  men.  He 
had  left  St.  Louis  in  the  month  of  August,  1810,  in  company 
with  Mr.  Hunt.  They  passed  the  winter  of  that  year  at  a  place 
called  Nadwau,  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  where  they  were 
joined  by  Messrs.  M'Lellan,  Crooks,  and  Miller,  three  American 
traders,  connected  with  Mr.  Astor. 

In  the  spring  of  1811  they  ascended  the  Missouri  in  two  large 
barges,  until  they  arrived  on  the  lands  of  a  powerful  tribe 
named  the  Arikaraws.  Here  they  met  a  Spanish  trader,  Mr. 
Mnnuel  Lisa,  to  whom  they  sold  their  barges  and  a  quantity  of 
th'HT  merchandise. 

Having  purchased  one  hundred  and  thirty  horses  from  the 
Indians,  they  set  off  in  the  beginning  of  August  on  thv..r  land 
jom'ney,  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Apprehensive  of  coming 
m  contact  with  the  Black  Feet,  a  warlike  and  savage  tribe,  who 
have  a  strong  antipathy  to  the  white  men,  they  were  obliged  to 
proceed  as  fa!  south  as  the  latitude  of  40° ;  from  whence  they 
turned  into  a  north-west  course.  This  brought  them  to  an  old 
trading  post,  situated  on  the  banks  of  a  small  river ;  and  as  they 
had  no  doubt  it  would  bring  them  to  the  Columbia,  they  imme- 
diat'^ly  set  about  making  canoes  for  the  purpose  of  descending 
that  river. 

Mr.  Miller,  not  liking  the  aspect  of  ffairs  at  this  place, 
requested  permission  to  return  to  the  United  States,  which  was 
granted  ;  and  a  few  men  were  allowed  to  accompany  him  on 
his  way  back. 

The  party,  which  now  consisted  of  about  sixty  people,  com- 
menced their  voyage  downwards ;  but  from  the  rapidity  of  the 
current,  and  the  number  of  dangerous  rapids,  they  determined, 
after  having  lost  one  man  and  a  portion  of  their  baggage,  to 
abandon  such  a  perilous  navigation,  and  undertake  the  remainder 
of  their  journey  on  foot. 

In  pursuance  of  this  resolution  they  divided  into  four  parties, 
under  the  commands  of  Messrs.  M'Kenzie,  Hunt,  M'Lellan,  and 
Crooks  ;  still  keeping  in  view  their  original  intention  of  follow- 
ing the  course  of  the  river.  Messrs.  M'Kenzie  and  M'Lellan 
took  the  right  bank,  and  Messrs.  Hunt  and  Crooks  the  left. 
They  were  under  a  strong  impression  that  a  few  days  would 
bring  them  to  the  Columbia,  but  they  were  miserably  disap- 
pointed.   For  three  weeks  they  followed  the  course  of  the  river, 


OVER-LARD  JOVKNET. 


61 


which  was  one  continued  torrent;  and  the  banks  of  which,  par- 
ticularly the  northern,  consisted  of  high  precipitous  rocks,  rising  ^ 
abruptly  from  the  water's  edge.  The  gret- >>r  nnrt  of  this  period  i 
was  one  of  extreme  suffering.  Their  provisions  became  shortly 
exhausted,  and  they  were  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  broiling 
even  the  leather  of  their  shoes  to  sustain  nature :  while,  to  com- 
plete their  misfortunes,  they  were  often  unable  to  descend  the 
steep  declivities^  of  the  rocks  for  a  drink  of  the  water  which 
th^  saw  flowing  beneatlA  their  feet. 

From  the  tormenting  privations  which  they  experienced  in 
following  the  course  of  this  stream,  they  called  it  Mad  River ; 
and  in  speaking  of  it  afterward,  the  Canadians,  from  the  bitter- 
ness of  their  recollections,  denominated  it  la  maudite  riviere 
enragee.  Mr.  Hunt's  party  did  not  suffer  so  much  as  those  on 
the  right  bank,  in  consequence  of  occasionally  meeting  some  of 
the  natives ;  who,  although  they  always  fled  on  perceiving  them 
left  their  horses  behind  The  party  were  obliged  to  kill  a  few 
of  these  animals,  and  in  payment  for  them  left  some  goods  near 
their  owners'  huts. 

After  a  separation  of  some  days  the  two  parties  came  in  sight 
of  each  other ;  and  Mr.  Hunt  had  a  canoe  made  out  of  the  skin 
of  a  horse,  in  which  he  sent  some  meat  over  to  his  famishing 
friends.  He  also  suggested  the  idea  of  their  crossing  over 
in  the  canoe  one  by  one  to  the  south  side,  where  they  would  at 
all  events  have  a  better  chance  of  escaping  death  by  starvation. 
This  was  readily  agreed  to  ;  but  the  attempt  was  unfortunately 
unsuccessful.  One  of  the  best  swimmers  embarked  in  the 
canoe ;  but  it  had  scarcely  reached  the  centre  of  the  river  when, 
owing  to  the  impetuosity  of  the  current,  it  upset,  and  the  poor 
voyageur  sunk  to  rise  no  more. 

Finding  the  impracticability  of  their  reunion  by  this  means, 
they  continued  to  pursue  their  respective  courses,  and  in  a  few 
days  after  M'Kenzie's  party  fell  on  a  considerable  river,  which 
they  subsequently  ascertained  to  be  Lewis's  River.  Here  they 
met  a  tribe  of  friendly  Indians,  from  whom  they  purchased 
several  horses,  and  with  renovated  spirits  they  pursued  their 
journey  along  the  banks  of  the  principal  river.  Among  this 
tribe  tney  found  a  young  white  man  in  a  state  of  mental  derange- 
ment. He  had,  however,  lucid  intervals,  and  informed  them 
that  his  name  was  Archibald  Petton,  and  that  he  was  a  native 
of  Connecticut ;  that  he  had  ascended  the  Missouri  with  Mr. 
Henry,  an  American  trader,  who  built  the  house  our  people  saw 
at  the  upper  part  of  Mad  River  ;  that  about  three  years  ago  the 
place  was  attacked  by  the  savages,  who  massacred  every  man 
belonging  to  the  establishment,  with  the  exception  of  himself; 
and  that  having  escaped  unperceived,  he  wandered  about  for 


"  r  'I 


63 


DEPABTVRBf. 


i  •    .' 


several  weeks,  until  he  met  the  friendly  tribe  with  whom  we 
found  him.  The  dreadful  scenes  he  had  witnessed,  joined  to 
the  sufferings  he  had  gone  through,  produced  a  partial  derange- 
ment of  his  iiitellect.  His  disorder  was  of  a  harmless  nature ; 
and  as  it  appeared  probable  that  civilized  companionship  would 
in  the  course  of  time  restore  him  to  his  reason,  Mr.  M'Kenzie 
very  humanely  brought  him  along  with  the  party. 

On  arriving  at  the  entrance  of  Lewis'  River,  they  obtained 
canoes  from  the  natives  in  exchange  for  their  horses  ;  and  meet- 
ing with  no  obstruction  from  thence  downwards,  arrived  at 
Astoria  on  the  18th  of  January,  1812.  Their  concave  cheeks, 
protuberant  bones,  and  tattered  garments,  strongly  indicated  the 
dreadful  extent  of  their  privations ;  but  their  health  appeared 
uninjured,  and  their  gastronomic  powers  unimpaired. 

From  the  day  that  the  unlucky  attempt  was  made  to  cross  in 
the  canoe,  Mr.  M'Kenzie  had  seen  nothing  of  Mr.  Hunt's  party, 
and  he  was  of  opinion  they  would  not  be  able  to  reach  the  fort 
until  the  spring  was  far  advanced.  He  was  however  mistaken ; 
for  on  the  15th  of  February  Mr.  Hunt,  with  thirty  men,  one 
woman,  and  two  children,  arrived  at  Astoria. 

This  gentleman  stated  that  shortly  aflor  his  last  separation 
from  the  northern  party  he  arrived  among  a  friendly  tribe,  whose 
village  was  situated  in  the  plains.  They  treated  him  and  his 
party  with  great  hospitality;  in  consequence  of  which  he 
remained  ten  days  with  them,  for  the  double  purpose  of  recruit- 
ing his  men,  and  looking  for  one  of  his  hunters,  who  had  been 
lost  for  some  days.  Havmg  received  no  intelligence  of  the 
man,  Mr.  Hunt  resumed  his  journey,  leaving  Mr.  Crooks,  with 
five  men  who  were  much  exhausted,  among  the  Indians,  who 
promised  to  pay  every  attention  to  them,  and  conduct  them  part 
of  the  way  downwards  on  their  recovery. 

Mr.  Hunt  in  the  mean  time  fell  on  the  Columbia,  some 
distance  below  its  junction  with  Lewis'  River;  and  having  also 
obtained  canoes,  arrived  safely  on  the  day  above  mentioned. 
The  corporeal  appearance  of  his  party  was  somewhat  superior  to 
that  of  Mr.  M'Kenzie's,  but  their  outward  habiliments  were 
equally  ragged. 

The  accession  of  so  many  hungry  stomachs  to  the  half-starved 
garrison  at  Astoria  would  have  produced  serious  inconvenience 
had  not  the  fishing  season  fortunately  commenced  earlier  than 
was  anticipated,  and  supplied  them  with  abundance  of  a  small 
delicious  fish  resembling  pilchard,  and  which  is  the  same  men- 
tioned by  Lewis  and  Clarke  as  anchovy. 

On  the  30th  of  March,  the  following  departures  took  place : 
Mr.  Read  for  New  York,  charged  with  despatches  to  Mr.  Astor, 
accompanisd  by  Mr.  M'Lellan,  who  quitted  the  country  in 


di 
m 

hi) 


I 


M 

fo 


I'  ' 


▲copuirr  OF  the  vonqvin. 


63 


diflgiMtt  This  gentleman  had  fancied  that  a  fortune  was  to  be 
made  with  extraordinary  celerity  on  the  Columbia ;  but  finding 
his  calculations  had  evceedtid  the  bounds  of  probability,  he 

{•referred  renewing  his  addresses  to  the  fickle  jade  in  a  country 
ess  subject  to  starvation  and  fighting. 

Messrs.  Farnham  and  M'Gillis,  with  a  party,  also  embarked 
for  the  purpose  of  proceeding  to  the  head  of  Mad  River,  for  the 
trading  goods  which  Mr.  Hunt  had  deposited  there  en  cache ;  and 
Mr.  Robert  Stuart  set  off  at  the  same  time  with  a  fresh  supply 
for  his  uncle's  establishment  at  Oakinagan. 


w 


CHAPTER  V. 


m 


PaTticuIara  of  the  doBtruction  of  the  Tonquin   and  crew — Indians  attack 
a  party  ascending  the  river — Description  of  fort,  natives,  and  the  country. 

It  is  now  time  to  return  to  the  Tonquin,  of  which  no  news 
had  been  heard  during  the  winter,  with  the  exception  of  the 
flying  rumours  already  alluded  to.  That  vessel,  as  mentioned  in 
the  preceding  chapter,  sailed  from  the  Columbia  on  the  5th  of 
June,  1811,  on  a  trading  speculation  to  the  northward ;  and  Mr. 
M'Kay  took  on  board,  as  an  interpreter,  a  native  of  Gray's 
Harbour,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  the  various  dialects  of 
thu  tribes  on  the  coast.  From  this  Indian  the  following  melan- 
choly particulars  were  learned. 

A  few  days  after  their  departure  from  the  Columbia  they 
anchored  opposite  a  large  village,  named  New  Whitty,  in  the 
vicinity  of  iSfootka,  where  Mr.  M'Kay  immediately  opened  a 
smart  trade  with  the  natives.  He  went  on  shore  with  a  few 
men ;  was  received  in  the  most  friendly  manner,  and  slept  a 
couple  of  nights  at  the  village.  During  this  period  several  of 
the  natives  visited  the  vessel  with  furs.  The  unbending  manners 
of  the  captain  were  not  calculated  to  win  their  esteem ;  and 
having  struck  one  of  their  principal  men  whom  he  had  caught  in 
a  theft,  a  conspiracy  was  formed  by  the  friends  of  the  chief  to 
surprise  and  cut  off  the  vessel.  The  faithful  interpreter,  havinj; 
discovered  their  designs,  lost  no  time  in  acquainting  Mr.  M'Kay, 
vi\vo  instantly  hurried  on  board  for  the  purpose  of  warning  the 
captain  of  the  intended  attack.  That  evening  Mr.  M'Kay  told 
the  interpreter  that  the  captain  only  laughed  at  the  information, 
and  said  he  could  never  believe  that  a  parcel  of  lazy,  thieving 
Indians  would  have  the  courage  to  attack  such  a  ship  as  his.  The 


64 


ATTACK  ON  THE  TOKQTIIN. 


u 


natives,  in  the  mean  time,  apprehensive  from  Mr.  M'Kay's 
sudden  return  that  their  plans  were  suspected,  visited  the  ship 
in  small  numbers,  totally  unarmed,  in  order  to  throw  our  people 
off  their  guard.  Even  the  chief  who  had  been  struck  by  Cap- 
tain Thorn,  and  who  was  the  head  of  the  conspiracy,  came  on 
board  in  a  manner  seemingly  friendly,  and  apparently  forgetful 
of  the  insult  he  had  received. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  day  previous  to  that  on  which 
the  ship  was  to  leave  New  Whitty,  a  couple  of  large  canoes,  each 
containing  about  twenty  men,  appeared  alongside.  They  brought 
several  small  bundles  of  furs  ;  and,  as  the  sailors  imagined  they 
came  for  the  purpose  of  trading,  were  allowed  to  come  on  deck. 
Shortly  after  another  canoe,  with  an  equal  number,  arrived  also 
with  furs  ;  and  it  was  quickly  followed  by  two  others,  full  of 
men  carrying  beaver,  otter,  and  other  valuable  skins.  No  oppo- 
sition was  made  to  their  coming  on  board ;  but  the  officer  of  the 
watch  perceiving  a  number  of  other  canoes  pushing  off,  became 
suspicious  of  their  intentions,  and  warned  Captain  Thorn  of  the 
circumstance.  He  immediately  came  on  the  quarter-deck, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  M'Kay  and  the  interpreter.  The  latter,  on 
observing  that  they  all  wore  short  cloaks  or  mantles  of  skins, 
which  was  by  no  means  a  general  custom,  at  once  knew  their 
designs  were  hostile,  and  told  Mr.  M'Kay  of  his  suspicions. 
That  gentleman  immediately  apprized  Captain  Thorn  of  the 
circumstances,  and  begged  of  him  to  lose  no  time  in  clearing 
the  ship  of  the  intruders.  This  caution  was  however  treated 
lightly  by  the  captain,  who  remarked,  that  with  the  arms  they 
had  on  board  they  would  be  more  than  a  match  for  three  times 
the  number.  The  sailors  in  the  mean  time  had  all  come  on  deck, 
which  was  crowded  with  the  Indians,  who  completely  blocked 
up  the  passages,  and  obstructed  the  men  in  the  performance  of 
their  various  duties.  The  captain  requested  them  to  retire,  to 
which  they  paid  no  attention.  He  then  told  them  he  was  about 
going  to  sea,  and  ha;'  given  orders  to  the  men  to  raise  the  anchor ; 
that  he  hoped  they  would  go  away  quietly ;  but  if  they  refused 
he  should  be  compelled  to  force  their  departure.  He  had 
scarcely  finished,  when  at  a  signal  given  by  one  of  the  chiefs,  a 
loud  and  frightful  yell  was  heard  from  the  assembled  savages, 
who  commenced  a  sudden  and  simultaneous  attack  on  the  officers 
and  crew  with  knives,  bludgeons,  and  short  sabres,  which  they 
had  concealed  under  their  robes. 

Mr.  M*Kay  was  one  of  the  first  attacked.  One  Indian  gave 
him  a  severe  blow  with  a  bludgeon,  which  partially  stunned  him  ; 
upon  which  he  was  seized  by  five  or  six  others,  who  threw  him 
overboard  into  a  canoe  alongside,  where  he  quickly  recovered, 
and  was  allowed  to  remain  for  some  time  uninjured. 


Wi 


( 


DESTRUCTION   OF   THE    TONQVIN. 


65 


they 


Captain  Thorn  made  an  incirectual  attempt  to  reach  the  cabin 
for  his  firearms,  but  was  overpowered  by  numbers.  His  only 
weapon  was  a  jack-knife,  with  which  he  killed  four  of  his  savage 
assailants  by  ripping  up  their  bellies,  and  mutilated  several  others. 
Covered  with  wounds,  and  exhausted  from  the  loss  of  blood,  he 
rested  himself  for  a  moment  by  leaning  on  the  tiller  wheel, 
when  he  received  a  dreadful  biow  from  a  weapon  called  a 
pautumaugan,*  on  the  back  pait  of  the  head,  which  felled  him 
to  the  deck.  The  death-dealing  knife  fell  from  his  hand ;  and  his 
savage  butchers,  after  extinguishing  the  few  sparks  of  Ufe  that 
still  remained,  threw  his  mangled  body  overboard. 

On  seeing  the  captain's  fate  our  informant,  who  was  close 
to  him,  and  who  had  hitherto  escaped  uninjured,  jumped 
into  the  water,  and  was  taken  into  a  canoe  by  some  women, 
who  partially  covered  his  body  with  mats.  He  states  that  the 
original  intention  of  the  enemy  was  to  detain  Mr.  M'Kay  a 
prisoner  ;  and  after  securing  the  vessel,  to  give  him  his  liberty, 
on  obtaining  a  ransom  from  Astoria ;  but  on  finding  the  resist- 
ance made  by  the  captain  and  crew,  the  former  of  whom  had 
killed  one  of  the  principal  chiefs,  their  love  of  gain  gave  way  to 
revenge,  and  they  resolved  to  destroy  him.  The  last  time  the 
ill-fated  gentleman  was  seen,  his  head  was  hanging  over  the  side 
of  a  canoe,  and  three  savages,  armed  with  jjautumaugans,  were 
battering  out  his  brains. 

In  the  mean  time  the  devoted  crew,  who  had  maintained  the 
unequal  conflict  with  unparalleled  bravery,  became  gradually 
overpowered.  Three  of  them,  John  Anderson,  the  boatswain 
John  Weekes,  the  carpenter,  and  Stephen  Weekes,  who  had  so 
narrowly  escaped  at  the  Columbia,  succeeded,  after  a  desperate 
struggle,  in  gaining  possession  of  the  cabin,  the  entrance  to 
which  they  securely  fastened  inside.  The  Indians  now  became 
more  cautious,  for  they  well  knew  there  were  plenty  of  firearms 
below ;  and  they  had  already  experienced  enough  of  the  prowess 
of  the  three  men  while  on  deck,  and  armed  only  with  hand- 
spikes, to  dread  approaching  them  while  they  had  more  mortal 
weapons  at  their  command. 

Anderson  and  his  two  companions  seeing  their  commander 
and  the  crew  dead  and  dying  about  them,  and  that  no  hop^  of 
escape  remained,  and  feeling  moreover  the  uselessness  of  any 
farther  opposition,  determined  on  taking  a  terrible  revenge. 
Two  of  them  therefore  set  about  laying  a  train  to  the  powder 
magazine,  while  the  third  addressed  some  Indians  from  the 
cabin  windows,  who  were  u\  '.  anoes,  and  gave  them  to  under- 

*  A  Bpccies  of  half  sabre,  half  club,  from  two  to  throe  feet  in  length,  six 
inches  in  breadth,  and  double  edged. 

H 


i 


f 

m 

m  f. 
^   11 

11 

i    < 


}'  ' 


PATE   OP   THE   SURVIVORS. 


Stand  that  if  they  were  permitted  to  depart  unmolested  in  one 
of  the  ship's  boats,  they  would  give  them  (juiet  possession  of  the 
vessel  without  firing  a  shot ;  stipulating  however  that  no  canoe 
should  remain  near  them  while  gettmg  into  the  boat.  The 
anxiety  of  the  barbarians  to  obtain  possession  of  tlie  plunder, 
and  their  disinclination  to  risk  any  more  lives,  induced  them  to 
embrace  this  proposition  with  eagerness,  and  tha  pinnace  was 
immediately  brouglit  astern.  The  three  heroes  having  by  this 
time  perfected  their  dreadful  arrangements,  and  ascertained  that 
no  Indian  was  watching  them,  gradually  lowered  themselves 
from  the  cabin  windows  into  the  boat ;  and  having  fired  the 
train,  quickly  pushed  (.If  towards  the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  no 
obstacle  being  interposed  to  prevent  their  departure. 

Hundreds  of  the  enemy  now  rushed  on  deck  to  seize  the  long- 
expected  prize,  shouting  yells  of  victory  •  but  their  triumph  was 
of  short  duration.  Just  as  they  had  burst  open  the  cabin  door, 
an  explosion  took  place,  which  in  an  instant  hurled  upwards  of 
two  hundred  savages  into  eternity,  and  dreadfully  injured  as  many 
more.  The  interpreter,  who  had  by  this  time  reached  land, 
states  he  saw  many  mutilated  bodies  floating  near  the  beach,  while 
heads,  arms,  and  legs,  together  with  fragments  of  the  ship,  were 
thrown  to  a  considerable  distance  on  the  shore. 

The  first  impression  of  the  survivors  was,  that  the  Master  of 
Life  had  sent  forth  the  Evil  Spirit  from  the  waters  to  punish 
them  for  their  cruelty  to  the  white  people.  This  belief,  joined 
to  the  consternation  occasioned  by  the  shock,  and  the  reproaches 
and  lamciitaiions  of  the  wives  and  other  relatives  of  the  suffer- 
ers, paralyzed  for  a  time  the  exertions  of  the  savages,  and 
favoured  the  attempt  of  Anderson  and  his  brave  comra^'ts  to 
escape.  They  rowed  hard  for  the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  with 
the  intention,  as  is  supposed,  of  coasting  along  the  shore  to  the 
Columbia ;  but  after  passing  the  bar,  a  head  wind  and  flowing 
tide  drove  them  back,  and  compelled  them  to  land  late  at  night 
in  a  small  cove,  where  they  fancied  themselves  free  from  danger ; 
and  where,  weak  from  the  loss  of  blooJ,  and  the  harassing 
exertions  of  the  day,  they  fell  into  a  profound  sleep. 

In  the  mean  time  the  terror  of  the  Indians  had  in  some  degree 
subsided,  and  they  quickly  discovered  that  it  was  by  human 
agency  so  many  of  their  warriors  had  been  destroyed.  They 
therefore  determined  on  having  the  lives  of  those  who  caused 
the  explosion  ;  and  being  aware,  from  the  state  of  the  wind  and 
tide,  that  the  boat  could  not  put  to  sea,  a  party  proceeded  after 
dark  cautiously  along  the  shore  of  the  bay,  until  they  arrived  at 
the  spot  where  their  helpless  victims  lay  slumbering.  Bleeding 
and  exhausted,  they  opposed  but  a  feeble  resistance  to  their 
savage  conquerors;  and  about  midnight  their  heroic  spirits 
mingled  with  those  of  their  departed  comrades. 


^ 


^X-v 


INl  'AN  ATTACK. 


67 


no 


legree 
luman 

They 
caused 
id  and 

after 
i^ed  at 
ceding 

their 
■spirits 


Thus  perished  th'  last  of  the  gallant  crew  of  the  Tonquin : 
and  in  reflecting  on  their  melancholy  fate,  it  is  deeply  to  be  re- 
gretted that  there  was  no  person  of  sufficient  influence  at  Astoria 
to  bring  about  a  reconciliation  between  Captain  Thorn  and 
Mr.  M'Kay ;  for  were  it  not  for  the  deplorable  hostility  and  con- 
sequent want  of  union  that  existed  between  these  two  brave 
men,  it  is  more  than  probable  this  dreadful  catastrophe  would 
never  have  occurred.* 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th  of  May,  the  day  after  our  arrival, 
while  walking  with  some  of  my  companions  in  front  of  the  fort, 
indulging  in  gloomy  reflections  on  the  fate  of  the  Tonquin,  and 
the  unpromising  appearance  of  our  general  affairs,  we  were 
surprised  by  the  arrival  of  two  canoes  with  Messrs.  Robert 
Stuart,  M'Lellan,  Reod,  and  Farnham,  tc^ether  with  Messrs. 
David  Stuart,  and  R.  Crooks.  The  unexpected  return  of  the 
four  first  individuals,  who  had  only  left  the  fort  on  the  30th 
March,  was  caused  by  a  serious  rencounter  which  they  had  with 
the  natives  in  ascending.  On  arriving  at  the  portage  of  the  falls, 
which  is  very  long  and  fatiguing,  several  of  the  Indians  in  a  friendly 
manner  tendered  their  horses  to  transport  the  goods.  Mr. 
Stuart,  having  no  suspicion  of  their  dishonesty,  gladly  accepted 
the  offer,  and  entrusted  a  few  of  them  with  several  small  pack- 
ets of  merchandise  to  carry.  On  arriving,  however,  in  a  rocky 
and  Folitary  part  of  the  portage,  the  rascals  turned  their  horses' 
heads  into  a  narrow  pathway  and  galloped  off"  with  the  goods, 
with  which  they  escaped.  Their  comrades  on  foot  in  the  mean 
time  crowded  about  the  vcyageurs  who  were  carrying  the  pack- 
ages, and  as  Mr.  Stuart  observed  the  necessity  of  greater  pre- 
caution, he  took  his  post  at  the  upper  end  of  the  portage,  leaving 
Messrs.  Reed  and  M'Lellan  in  charge  of  the  rear -guard.  Mr. 
Reed  was  the  bearer  of  the  despatches,  and  had  a  tin  case,  in 
which  they  were  contained,  flung  over  his  shoulder?.  Its  bright- 
ness attracted  the  attention  of  the  natives,  and  they  resolved  to 
obtain  possession  of  the  prize.  A  group  therefore  patiently 
watched  his  motions  for  some  time,  until  they  observed  he  had 
separated  himself  from  M'Lellan,  and  gone  ahead  a  short 
distance.  The  moment  they  supposed  he  was  alone  they  sprung 
on  him,  seized  his  arms,  and  succeeded  in  capturing  the  tin  case 
after  a  brave  resistance,  in  the  course  of  which  he  was  knocked 
down  twice,  and  nearly  killed.  Mr.  M'Lellan,  who  had  been  an 
attentive  observer  of  the  whole  transaction,  instantly  fired,  and 
one  of  the  robbers  fell ;  upon  which  his  companions  fled,  not, 

•  ^rom  the  particular  description  given  by  our  informant  of  the  dress  and 
pf.donal  appearance  of  Anderson  and  the  two  Weekes's,  we  had  no  doubt  of 
their  identity. 


68 


INDIAN   ATTACK. 


I 


Tit 


.1 


i»l 


however,  without  securing  the  plunder.  Mr.  M'Lcllan,  imagin- 
ing that  Mr.  Reed  had  been  killed,  immediately  joined  Mr. 
Stuart,  and  urged  that  gentlemen  to  fly  from  a  place  so  preg- 
nant with  danger.  This,  however,  he  refused,  until  he  was 
satisfied  respecting  Mr.  Reed's  fate  ;  and  taking  a  few  men  with 
him,  he  repaired  towards  the  spot  where  Reed  had  been  attacked. 
The  latter  had  in  the  mean  time  somewhat  recovered  from 
the  effects  of  his  wounds,  and  was  slowly  dragging  himself 
along  when  Mr.  Stuart's  part,  came  to  his  assistance,  and  con- 
ducted him  to  the  upper  end  of  the  portage  in  satisty.  The 
loss  of  the  despatches  determined  Mr.  Stuart  to  postpone  Mr. 
Reed's  journey  to  New- York,  and  the  whole  party  proceeded  to 
Oakinagan,  the  post  established  by  Mr.  David  Stuart.  They 
remained  here  only  a  few  days,  and  early  in  May  left  it  on  their 
return  to  Fort  Astoria.  On  their  way  down,  near  the  entrance 
of  the  Shoshone  river,  they  fell  in  with  Mr.  R.  Crooks  and  a 
Kentucky  hunter,  named  Jolm  Day,  in  a  state  of  miserable  des- 
titution. 

1  have  already  mentioned  that  this  gentleman,  with  five  of  his 
men,  owing  to  their  inability  to  continue  the  journey  from 
excessive  fatigue,  had  been  left  by  Mr.  Hunt  among  a  tribe  of 
friendly  Indians,  supposed  to  be  a  branch  of  the  extensive  Snake 
nation.  Finding,  however,  that  they  had  nothing  to  expect  from 
the  strangers,  these  savages,  shortly  after  the  departure  of  Mr. 
Hunt,  robbed  them  of  every  article  in  their  possesc,ion,  even  to 
their  shirts,  in  exchange  for  which  they  gave  them  a  few  old 
skins  to  cover  their  nakedness. 

The  miserable  party,  thus  attired,  and  without  any  provisions, 
recommenced  their  journey  to  the  Columbia,  on  the  banks  of 
which  they  arrived  a  few  days  previous  to  the  descent  of  Mr. 
Stuart's  party. 

Here  was  a  frightful  addition  to  our  stock  of  disasters.  Fight- 
ing, robbery,  and  starvation  in  the  interior,  with  drownings, 
massacres,  and  apprehensions  of  farther  attacks  from  the  Indians 
on  the  coast,  formed  a  combination  sufficient  to  damp  the  ardour 
of  the  youngest,  or  the  courage  of  the  most  enterprising.  The 
retrospect  was  gloomy,  and  the  future  full  of  "  shadows,  clouds, 
and  darkness."  The  scene  before  us,  however,  was  novel,  and 
for  a  time  our  ideas  were  diverted  from  the  thoughts  of  "  battle, 
murder,  and  sudden  death,"  to  the  striking  peculiarities  connected 
with  our  present  situation. 

The  spot  selected  for  the  fort  was  on  a  handsome  eminence 
called  Point  George,  which  commanded  an  extensive  view  of 
the  majestic  Columbia  in  front,  bounded  by  the  bold  and  hickly- 
wooded  northern  shore.     On  the  right,  about  three  miles  dis- 


THE   FOni' — niE   NATIVES. 


tant,  a  long,  high,  and  rocky  peninsula  covered  with  timber, 
called  Tongue  Point,  extended  a  considerable  distance  into  the 
river  from  the  southern  side,  with  which  it  was  connected  by  a 
narrow  neck  of  land  ;  while  on  the  extreme  left,  Cape  Disap- 
pointment, with  the  bar  and  its  terrific  chain  of  breakers  were 
distinctly  visible. 

The  buildings  consisted  of  apartments  for  the  proprietors  and 
clerks,  with  a  capacious  dinin<;;-hall  for  both,  extensive  ware- 
houses for  the  trading  goods  and  furs,  a  provision  store,  a  trading 
shop,  smith's  forge,  carpenter's  workshop,  &c.  The  whole  sur- 
rounded by  stockades  forming  a  square,  and  reaching  about 
fifteen  feet  above  the  ground.  A  gallery  ran  round  the  stock- 
ades, in  which  loopholes  were  pierced  sufficiently  large  for  mus- 
ketry. Two  strong  bastions,  built  of  logs,  commanded  the  four 
■ides  of  the  square:  each  bastion  had  two  sfoiies,  in  which  a 
number  of  chosen  men  slept  every  night.  A  six-pounder  was 
placed  in  the  lower  story,  and  tiiey  were  both  well  provided 
with  small  arms. 

Immediately  in  front  of  the  fort  was  a  gentle  declivity  sloping 
down  to  the  river's  side,  which  had  been  turned  into  an  excellent 
kitchen  garden  ;  and  a  few  hundred  yards  to  the  left,  a  tolerable 
wharf  had  been  run  out,  by  which  bateaux  and  boats  were  ena- 
bled at  low  water  to  land  their  cargoes  without  sustaining  any 
damage.  An  impenetrable  forest  of  gigantic  pine  rose  in  the 
rear ;  and  the  ground  was  covered  with  a  thick  underwood  of 
brier  and  huckleberry,  intermingled  with  fern  and  honeysuckle. 

Numbers  of  the  natives  crowded  in  and  about  the  fort.  They 
were  most  uncouth-looking  objects ;  and  not  strongly  calculated 
to  impress  us  with  a  favourable  opinion  of  aboriginal  beauty,  or 
the  purity  of  Indian  manners.  A  few  of  the  men  were  partially 
covered,  but  the  greater  number  were  unannoyed  by  vestments 
of  any  description.  Their  eyes  were  black,  piercing,  and 
treacherous  ;  their  ears  slit  up,  and  ornamented  with  strings  of 
beads ;  the  cartilage  of  their  nostrils  perforated,  and  adorned 
with  pieces  of  hyaquau  placed  horizontally  ;  while  their  heads 
presented  an  inclined  plane  from  the  crown  to  the  upper  part  of 
the  nose,  totally  unlike  our  European  rotundity  of  cranium  ;  and 
their  bodies  besmeared  with  whale  oil,  gave  them  an  ap- 
pearance horribly  disgusting.  Then  the  women, — Oh  ye  gods ! 
With  the  same  auricular,  olfactory,  and  craniological  peculiari- 
ties, they  exhibited  loose  hanging  breasts,  short  dirty  teeth,  skin 
saturated  with  blubber,  bandy  legs,  and  a  waddling  gait ;  while 
their  only  dress  consisted  of  n  ^  jnd  of  petticoat,  or  rather  kilt, 
formed  of  small  strands  of  cedar  bark  twisted  into  cords,  and 
reaching  from  the  waist  to  the  knee.  This  covering  in  calm 
weather,  or  in  an  erect  position,  served  all  the  purposes  of  con- 


' 


'i 


;i 


rii 


n 


70 


THE   PINE-TnEE. 


cealmcnt  ;  but  in  a  breeze,  or  when  indulging  their  favourite 
position  of  scjuatting,  formed  a  miserable  sliield  in  defence  of 
decency :  and  worse  than  all,  their  repulsive  familiarities  ren- 
dered them  objects  insiij)[)ortably  odious;  particularly  when 
contrasted  with  the  lively  eyes,  handsome  features,  fine  teeth, 
open  countenance,  and  graceful  carriage  of  the  interesting 
islanders  whom  wo  had  lately  loft. 

From  these  ugly  specimens  of  mortality  we  turned  with 
pleasure  to  contemplate  the  productions  of  their  country,  among 
the  most  wond(;rful  of  which  are  the  fir-trees.  The  largest 
species  grow  to  an  inuiiense  size,  and  one  immediately  behind 
the  fort,  at  the  height  of  ten  i'eet  from  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
measured  forty-six  feet  in  circumference  !  The  trunk  of  this 
tree  had  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  free  from  branches. 
Its  top  had  been  some  time  before  blasted  by  lightning ;  and 
to  judge  by  comparison,  its  height  when  perfect  must  have 
exceeded  three  hundred  feet !  This  was  however  an  extraor- 
dinary tree  in  that  country,  and  was  denominated  by  the  Cana- 
dians Le  Roi  de  Fins.* 

The  general  size,  however,  of  the  different  species  of  fir,  far 
exceeds  any  thing  on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains : 
and  prime  sound  pine  from  two  hundred  to  two  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  in  height,  and  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, are  by  no  means  uncommon. 

Buffon  asserts  that  "  living  nature  is  less  active,  less  energetic 
in  the  new  world  than  the  old,"  which  he  attributes  to  the  pre- 
valence of  moisture  and  deficiency  of  heat  in  America.  This 
assertion  was  ably  combated  by  the  late  Mr.  Jefferson ;  but 
without  entering  into  the  arguments  of  these  celebrated  philoso- 
phers, we  may  safely  state,  that  if  America  be  inferior  to  the  old 
continent  in  the  animal  world,  she  can  at  least  assert  her  supe- 
riority in  the  vegetable. 

En  passant,  I  may  here  remark,  that  although  constant  rains 
prevail  eight  months  out  of  the  twelve,  and  during  the  remaining 
four,  which  are  the  summer  months,  the  heat  is  far  from  exces- 
sive, the  large  and  stately  elk,  which  are  numerous  about  the 
lower  shores  of  the  Columbia,  are  equal,  if  not  superior  in  size 
to  those  found  in  the  hottest  and  driest  parts  of  the  world. 

There  are  five  or  six  different  species  of  fir,  with  the  peculiar 
qualities  of  which  I  am  unacquainted.  They  split  even,  make 
good  canoes,  yield  little  ashes,  produce  scarcely  any  gum,  and 
are  excellent  for  building  and  other  domestic  purposes. 


m- 


*  A  pine-tree  has  been  subsequently  discovered  in  the  Umpqua  country,  to 
the  southward  of  the  Columbia,  the  circumference  of  which  is  57  feet ;  itB 
height  216  feet  without  branches ! 


i 


PRODUCnONB  OF  THE  COUNTRY EXCURSION. 


71 


far 


Our  tabic  was  daily  supplied  wilh  elk,  wild  fowl,  and  fish.  Of 
the  last,  we  feasted  on  the  royal  Htiirgoon,  which  in  here  larKO, 
white,  and  Hrm ;  unrivulled  salmon  ;  and  abundance  of  tlio 
awect  little  anchovy,  which  is  taken  in  such  quantities  by  the 
Indiana,  that  we  have  seen  their  houses  garnished  with  several 
hundred  strings  of  them,  dry  and  drying.  We  had  them  gene- 
rally twice  a  day,  at  breakfast  and  dinner,  and  in  a  few  weeks 
got  such  a  surfeit,  that  few  of  us  for  years  afterward  tasted  an 
anchovy. 

We  remained  upwards  of  sis  weeks  at  the  fort,  preparing 
for  our  grand  expedition  into  the  interior.  During  this  period  1 
went  on  several  short  excursions  to  the  villages  of  various  tribes 
up  the  river  and  about  the  bay.  The  natives  generally  received 
us  with  friendship  and  hospitality.  They  vary  little  in  their 
habits  or  language ;  and  the  perfect  unif(jrmity  in  the  shape  of 
their  heads  would,  I  fancy,  puzzle  the  phrenological  skill  of  the 
most  learned  disciples  of  Gall  or  Spurzhcim.  I  made  a  few 
midnight  visits  to  their  cemeteries,  from  which  I  abstracted  a 
couple  of  sculls,  which  ai)peared  totally  devoivd  of  any  peculiar 
organic  development.  I  regret  that  our  travelling  arrangements 
prevented  me  from  bringing  them  across  the  mountains ;  for, 
without  ocular  proof,  I  fear  the  faculty  could  not  be  brought  to 
believe  that  the  human  head  was  capable  of  being  moulded  to  a 
shape  so  unlike  the  great  mass  of  mankind.  This  however  is 
dangerous  ground ;  and  I  shall  not  pursue  the  subject  farther, 
lest  I  might  provoke  the  gall  of  the  believers  in  the  theory  of 
craniology,  among  whom,  I  am  aware,  may  be  reckoned  some 
of  the  most  eminent  men  in  the  literary  world. 

We  also  visited  Fort  Clatsop,  the  place  whore  Captains  Lewis 
and  Clarke  spent  the  winter  of  1805-6 ;  an  accurate  description 
of  which  is  given  in  the  journal  of  those  enterprising  travellers. 
The  logs  of  the  house  were  still  standing,  and  marked  with  the 
names  of  several  of  their  party. 

The  most  striking  peculiarity  of  the  immense  forests  which 
we  observed  in  the  course  of  these  excursions,  was  the  total 
absence  of  tht  "  wood  notes  wild"  of  the  feathered  tribe  ;  and, 
except  in  the  vicinity  of  a  village,  their  deep  and  impervious 
gloom  resembles  the  silence  and  solitude  of  death. 


%i 


and 


'-^ 


c 


^1 


ir- 


7S  DErAUTVItU    FOK   TUE    hNTUllIOR. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Oeparturo  from  Aitoria — DuBcription  of  our  jmrty,  lading,  &n. — Appearanc* 
of  river  and  iRiands — Hvan  an<i  nio«(iiiitoi'8 — Fir»t  rn|)idH,  dun)(i<roui  at'ci- 
•         dont — Indian  coinotery — I'jj'y  Indiann — (libraltar— Capo  Horn — The  nar- 
row! and  falls — (>'haii)j;o  in  Iho  appaaranco  of  the  country — Attempt  at  rub- 
bery— Muuntod  Indiana. 

In  travellin<T  through  the  Fndian  country  several  days  must 
necessarily   elapse  devoid   of  interesting  matter;  and  tf  the 

f;eneral  reader  a  succinct  detail  of  the  diurnal  proceedings  of 
ndian  traders  would  he  rather  dry.  I  do  not  profess  to  write  a 
journal,  and  shall  therelore  make  no  apology  for  sparing  my 
readers  the  trouble  of  j)erusing  in  every  page  the  verbose 
accuracy  which  details,  that  in  summer  journeys  we  rise  eaeji 
morning  between  three  and  foiu'  o'clock,  breakfast  between  nine 
and  ten,  and  encamp  between  six  and  seven  in  the  evening ;  and 
that,  while  on  the  water,  few  days  elapse  in  which  we  are  not 
obliged  to  put  ashore  several  times  to  repair  the  damage 
sustained  by  our  canoes  in  passing  rajjid?,  portages,  or  sunken 
trees. 

On  the  29th  of  June,  1812,  all  the  necessary  arrangements 
having  been  perfected,  we  took  our  departure  from  Astoria  for 
the  interior.  Our  party  consisted  of  three  proprietors,  nine 
clerks,  fifty-five  Canadians,  twenty  Sandwich  Islanders,*  and 
Messrs.  Crooks,  M'Lelland,  and  R.  Stuart,  who,  with  eight  men, 
were  to  proceed  with  despatches  to  St.  Louis.  Messrs.  Hunt, 
M'Dougall,  Clapp,  Halsey,  and  Franchcre,  remained  at  the  fort. 
The  Beaver  had  previously  sailed  for  Canton,  whence  it  was 
intended  she  should  return  to  New- York. 

We  travelled  in  bateaux  and  light-built  wooden  canoes :  the 
former  had  eight,  and  the  latter  six  men.  Our  lading  consisted 
of  guns  and  ammunition,  spears,  hatchets,  knives,  beaver  traps, 
copper  and  brass  kettles,  white  and  green  blankets,  blue,  green, 
and  red  cloths,  calicoes,  beads,  rings,  thimbles,  hawk-bells,  &c. ; 
and  our  provisions  of  beef,  pork,  flour,  rice,  biscuits,  tea,  sugar, 
with  a  moderate  quantity  of  rum,  wine,  &c. :  the  soft  and  hard 
goods  were  secured  in  bales  and  boxes,  and  the  liquids  in  kegs, 
holding  on  an  average  nine  gallons :  the  guns  were  stowed  in 
long  cases.  From  thirty  to  forty  of  these  packages  and  kegs 
were  placed  in  each  vessel,  and  the  whole  was  covered  by  an 
oil-cloth  or  tarpaulin,  to  preserve  them  from  wet.     Each  canoe 

♦  The  Tonquin  had  brought  fifteen  of  the  Sandwich  islanders  from 
Whoahoo,  which,  joined  with  those  we  brought,  amounted  to  thirty-one. 
Eleven  remained  at  the  fort. 


1 


mDNIOHT   ADVBNTtJRB. 


in 

:egs 


and  barge  had  from  six  to  eight  men  rowing  or  paddling,  inde- 
pendent of  the  pnflHcngerft. 

The  Columbia  is  a.  noble  river,  uninterrupted  by  rapids  for 
one  hundred  and  seventy  miles ;  one  hundred  or  which  are 
navigable  for  vesscln  of  three  hundred  tons.  It  is  seldom  less 
than  a  mile  wide  ;  but  in  Home  places  its  breadth  varies  from 
two  to  five  miles.  The  shores  ore  generally  bold  and  thickly 
wooded.  Pine  in  all  its  varieties  predominates,  and  is  mixed 
with  white  onk,  ash,  beech,  poplar,  aider,  crab,  o  nd  cotton- wood, 
with  an  undergrowth  of  briers.  Ate,  through  which  our  hunters 
made  many  ineffectual  attempts  to  pnss.  The  navigation  ii 
often  obstructed  by  sand-banks,  which  are  scattered  over 
different  parts  of  the  river  below  the  rapids,  and  are  dry  at 
low  water.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  these  sand-banks  the 
shores  arc  generally  low,  and  present  some  fine  flat  Inittoms  of 
rich  meadow  ground,  bordered  by  a  profusion  of  blackberry 
and  other  wild  fruit  shrubs :  in  the  deep  and  narrow  parts  of 
the  channel  the  shores  are  bolder.  Tho  river,  up  to  the  rapids, 
is  covered  with  several  islands,  froir  one  to  three  miles  in 
length ;  some  o^"  which  are  fine  meadows,  and  others  well 
wooded.  Great  caution  is  required  to  avoid  sunken  trees, 
called  snags  or  planters,  and  by  the  Canadians  chicots,v/h\chare 
eenerally  concealed  under  the  surface  of  the  water ;  and  which, 
if  they  come  in  contact  with  canoes  sailing  rapiJIy,  may  cause 
them  to  sink  if  assistance  be  not  at  hand. 

About  three  miles  abo%  e  the  fort  a  long  and  narrow  point  of 
land,  rather  high,  runs  near  half  a  mile  into  the  river  from  the 
south  side :  it  is  called  Tongue  Point,  and  in  boisterous  weather 
is  very  difficult  to  double.  On  quitting  Astoria  it  blew  pretty 
fresh,  and  we  took  in  a  good  deal  of  water  in  doubling  this  point. 
We  stopped  for  the  night  about  six  miles  above  Tongue  Point, 
on  the  south  side,  close  to  an  old  uninhabited  village,  but  having 
no  lack  of  animated  beings  of  another  description — I  mean  fleas, 
with  which  the  place  was  completely  alive  ;  and  we  had  not 
been  on  shore  five  minutes  when  we  were  obliged  to  strip,  get 
a  change  of  clothes,  and  drown  the  invaders  of  our  late  suit  oy 
dipping  them  in  the  river.*  We  had  to  pitch  our  tents  on  the 
sandy  oeach  to  avoid  their  attacks;  but  this  was  only  "out  of 
the  fryingpan,"  &c. ;  for  about  midnight  the  tide  came  on  us 
unawares ;  and  the  first  intimation  we  received  of  our  danger 
was  the  noise  of  the  water  beating  against  the  canoes  and 
bageage ;  and  when  the  alarm  was  given,  it  was  nearly  up  to 
ourknees  on  the  beach.    It  was  a  spring-tide,  on  which  the  men 


*  During  the  warm  months  of  Bummer  it  i«  diificuit  to  Mlect  a  tpot  for  an 
•Bcampmant  free  from  theia  aunojing  inncts. 


74' 


ARRIVAL  AT  THE   RAF1D6. 


L*^ 


did  not  calculate,  and  therefore  kept  no  watch ;  added  to  which, 
every  man  was  nearly  drunk  on  quitting  the  fort. 

We  had  immediately  to  set  about  getting  the  goods  on  the 
grass,  and  dressing  ourselves.  On  examination  the  following 
morning,  we  found  several  bales  were  wet,  which  we  were 
obliged  to  open  for  the  purpose  of  drying.  This  detained  us 
late,  and  we  only  made  about  ten  miles  on  the  second  day,  and 
landed  on  a  small  bottom,  free  from  the  tide,  but  somewhat 
infested  by  fleas  and  mosquitoes.  On  the  1st  of  July  it  blew 
rather  stiffly  from  the  south-east,  which  retarded  our  progress 
considerably,  and  we  did  not  make  more  than  fifteen  miles  ;  but 
on  the  2d  we  had  a  good  run,  and  encamped  on  a  fine  meadow 
island,  where  we  hoped  to  spend  a  pleasant  night,  free  from 
fleas.  Our  hopes  were  partly  realized :  none  of  the  little  agile 
backbiters  attacked  us  ;  but  their  absence  was  more  than  amply 
compensated  by  myriads  of  mosquitoes,  from  which  we  suffered 
the  most  painful  torments  all  night ;  the  face,  ears,  neck,  and 
hands  were  peculiar  objects  of  their  affection;  and  what 
between  them  and  their  brethren  of  the  blanket,  we  scarcely 
had  an  unpunctured  spot  in  our  bodies.  I  was  particularly 
honoured  with  their  preference ;  and  in  the  morning  my  eyes 
were  completely  closed  up  from  the  eflfects  of  their  infernal 
stings. 

We  arrived  on  the  evening  of  the  4th  at  the  foot  of  the  first 
rapids,  where  we  encamped.  The  Indians  so  far  had  been 
always  friendly,  and  were  in  the  habit  of  occasionally  trading  at 
Astoria;  but  as  the  tribe  who  reside  at  the  rapids  had  previously 
manifested  hostile  feelings,  it  was  deemed  necessary  to  prepare 
for  action.  Each  man  was  provided  with  a  musket,  and  forty 
rounds  of  ball-cartridge,  with  pouch,  belts,  &c. ;  and  over  his 
clothes  he  wore  leathern  armour :  this  was  a  kind  of  shirt  made 
out  of  the  skin  of  the  elk,  which  reached  from  the  neck  to  the 
knees.  It  was  perfectly  arrow-proof;  and  at  eighty  or  ninety 
yards  impenetrable  by  a  musket  bullet.  Besides  the  muskets, 
numbers  had  daggers,  short  swords,  and  pistols ;  and,  when 
armed  cap-a-pie,  we  presented  a  formidable  appearance. 

A  council  of  war  was  then  called,  in  which  it  was  arranged 
that  five  officers  should  remain  at  each  end  of  the  portage,  and 
the  remainder,  wiih  twenty-five  men,  be  stationed  at  short 
distances  from  each  other.  Its  length  was  between  three  and 
four  miles,  and  the  path  was  narrow  and  dangerous ;  one  part 
greatly  obstructed  by  slippery  rocks  ;  and  another  ran  through 
a  thick  wood,  from  whicn  a  skilful  enemy  could  have  attacked 
us  with  advantage.  We  only  made  one  half  of  the  portage  the 
first  day,  and  encamped  near  an  old  village  ;  with  the  river  in 
font ;  a  deep  wood  in  the  rear ;  at  one  end  a  natural  intrench- 


\  I 


N 


■    I  »■ 


(-1  » 

I  Hi 


ALARM — WARLIKE   PREPARATIONS. 


T5 


ment  of  rocks ;  and  at  the  other  a  barrier  formed  by  the  canoes 
and  bateaux.  The  M^hole  brigade  was  divided  into  three 
watches,  with  five  officers  to  each. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  in  the  most  gloomy  part  of  the  wood, 
we  passed  a  cemeteiy,  materially  different  from  those  belonging 
to  the  lower  tribes.  There  were  nine  shallow  excavations  closely 
covered  with  pine  and  cedar  boards,  and  the  top  boards  sloping  to 
let  off  the  rain.  Each  place  was  about  seven  feet  square,  and 
between  five  and  six  feet  in  height.  They  contained  numbers  of 
dead  bodies;  some  in  a  state  of  greater  or  less  decomposition,  and 
a  few  quite  fresh  :  they  were  all  carefully  enveloped  in  mats  and 
skins.  Several  poles  were  attached  to  these  burial-places,  on 
which  were  suspended  robes,  pieces  of  cloth,  kettles,  bags  of 
trinkets,  baskets  of  roots,  wooden  bowls,  and  several  ornaments  ; 
all  of  which  the  survivors  believed  their  departed  friends  would 
require  in  the  next  world.  Their  veneration  is  so  great  for  these 
offerings,  that  it  is  deemed  sacrilege  to  pilfer  one  of  them ;  and 
although  these  Indians  are  not  remarkable  for  scrupulous  honesty, 
I  believe  no  temptation  would  induce  them  to  touch  these  articles. 
Several  of  the  boards  are  carved  and  painted  with  rude  repre- 
sentations of  men,  bears,  wolves,  and  animals  unknown.  Some 
in  green,  others  in  white  and  red,  and  all  most  hideously  unlike 
nature. 

About  midnight  we  were  thrown  into  a  state  of  frightful 
confusion  by  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  the  cries  of  Mr.  Pillet, 
one  of  the  clerks,  that  he  was  shot.  Every  one  instantly 
seized  his  arms,  and  inquired  on  which  side  was  the  enemy ; 
but  our  apprehensions  were  quickly  appeased,  on  learning  it 
was  merely  an  accident.  One  of  the  gentlemen,  in  examining 
the  musket  of  a  Sandwich  Islander,  to  see  if  it  was  primed, 
handed  it  to  him  at  full  cock  ;  and  just  as  the  islander  had  taken 
it,  the  piece  went  off,  and  the  contents  lodged  in  the  calf  of  poor 
Fillet's  leg,  who  naturally  enough  exclaimed  he  was  shot.  This 
was,  however,  in  our  present  circumstances,  a  disagreeable  event, 
as  it  rendered  Mr.  Pillet  not  only  incapable  of  fighting,  but 
required  three  or  four  men  to  carry  him  in  a  litter  over  the 
various  portages.  The  wound  was  dressed  with  friar's  balsam 
and  lint ;  the  ball  extracted  the  next  day ;  and  in  about  a  month 
afterward  he  was  able  to  walk. 

We  commenced  proceedings  at  four  o'clock  on  the  morning 
of  the  6th,  and  finished  the  portage  about  two  in  the  afternoon. 
During  our  progress  the  Indians  occasionally  hovered  about  the 
loaded  men,  and  made  two  or  three  trifling  essays  to  pilfer 
tiiem  ;  but  the  excellent  precautions  we  had  adopted  com- 
pletely kept  thorn  in  check,  and  deterred  them  from  attempting 
any  thing  like  forcible  robbery.    At  the  upper  end  of  the  portage 


! 


^1*; 


76 


THE  NATIVES — PROVUION — ITA5UI8  OF  PLACES. 


n 


'I 


i  i 


and  while  we  were  reloading  the  canoes,  a  number  of  the  natives, 
several  of  whom  were  armed,  assembled  about  us :  they  con- 
ducted themselves  peaceably;  but  our  numbers  and  warlike 
arrangements  enforced  respect.  The  dress  of  th^i  men  does 
not  differ  materially  from  that  of  the  lower  Indians ;  but  they 
are  incontestabl}^  more  filthy  and  ugly.  Their  teeth  arte  almost 
worn  away.  The  greater  number  have  very  sore  eyes :  several 
have  only  one ;  and  ^-'e  observed  a  few  old  men  and  women 
quite  blind.  The  men  are* generally  naked,  and  the  women 
merely  wear  a  leathern  belt,  with  a  narrow  piece  of  the  same 
material  joined  to  the  front,  which  very  imperfectly  answers  the 
purposes  intended.  Some  wear  leathern  robes  over  the  breast 
and  shoulders ;  but  others  allow  these  parts  to  remain  naked. 
We  observed  no  one  who  appeared  to  assume  the  authority  of 
a  chief.  Each  seemed  quite  independent  of  the  other,  and 
complete  master  in  his  own  house  and  family.  Their  unfeeling 
brutality  to  the  few  old  blind  people  I  have  mentioned  was 
really  shocking;  and  I  may  safely  say,  a  more  unamiable  race 
of  democrats  are  not  to  be  found  in  that  country  of  republics. 
We  distributed  a  quantity  of  tobacco  among  them,  with  which 
they  appeared  satisfied ;  after  which  we  embarked,  and  proceeded 
on.  The  upper  part  of  this  chain  of  rapids  is  a  perpendicular 
fall  of  nearly  sixteen  feet ;  after  which  it  continues  down  nearly 
one  uninterrupted  rapid  for  three  miles  and  a  half.  The  river 
here  is  compressed  by  the  bold  shore  on  each  side  to  about  two 
hundred  yards  or  less  in  breadth.  The  channel  is  crowded  with 
large  rocks,  over  which  the  water  rushes  with  incredible  velocity 
and  with  a  dreadful  noise.  Above  the  portage  the  river  widens 
to  about  half  a  mile,  and  is  studded  for  some  distance  with  several 
rocky  and  partially  wooded  islands.  We  encamped  about  five 
miles  from  the  portage,  in  a  pretty  little  creek  on  the  north  side. 
The  pine  declines  considerably  in  size  above  the  rapids,  and  is 
more  equally  mixed  with  other  trees  :  among  which,  on  the  left 
shore,  from  the  portage  up  to  our  encampment,  the  hazel  is 
predominant.  We  purchased  some  salmon  on  our  way  up,  by 
which  we  were  enabled  to  husband  our  own  provisions  with  more 
economy.  I  omitted  to  mention  that  below  the  rapids  we  also 
cot  a  quantity  of  excellent  roots,  called  by  the  Indians  wappittoo : 
m  size  they  resemble  a  small  potato,  for  which  it  is  a  good 
substitute  when  roasted  or  boiled ;  it  has  a  very  slight  tinge  of 
bitterness,  but  not  unpleasantly  so ;  and  is  highly  esteemed  by 
the  natives,  who  collect  vast  quantities  of  it  for  their  own  use 
and  for  barter :  none  of  it  grows  above  the  rapids.  On  the 
evening  of  the  8th  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  narrows,  or,  as 
the  Canadians  call  them,  les  dalles.  The  river  from  the  first 
rapids  to  the  narrows  is  broad,  deep,  and  rapid,  with  several 


( 
I 


COVRSE   OP   TIIE    C0LVMB7A INDIAN  DECKIT. 


77 


by 

use 

the 

as 


lunken  rocks,  scattered  here  and  there,  which  often  injure  the 
canoes.     The   Canadians,  who  are  very  fertile   in  baptizing 
remarkable  places,  called  an  island  near  our  encampment  of  the 
6th  Gibraltar,  from  the  rocky  steepness  of  its  shore  :  and  about 
half-way  between  the  first  rapids  and  narrows   a  bold  pro- 
montory of  high  black  rock  stretches  a  considerable  distance 
into  the  river,  which,  from  the  difficulty  we  experienced  in 
-doubling  it,  received  the  name  of  Cape  Horn.    The  current 
here  is  very  strong  and  full  of  whirlpools ;  so  that,  except  in 
calm  weather,  or  with  a  fair  wind,  it  is  rather  a  dangerous  under- 
taking to  "  double  the  cape."     The  islands  in  the  distance  are 
crowded  with  great  numbers  of  seals,  which  afforded  excellent 
sport  to  our  marksmen.    As  we  approached  the  narrows  the 
shores  on  each  side  were  less  covered  with  wood,  and  imme- 
diately close  to  them  it  had  entirely  disappeared.     The  land  on 
the  north  side  was  bold  and  rocky,  and  about  our  encampment 
rather  low,  mixed  with  rocks,  a  sandy  soil,  and  totally  devoid  of 
vegetation,  except  loose  straggling  bushes  some  distance  inland. 
The  Columbia  at  the  narrows,  for  upwards  of  three  miles  is 
compressed  into  a  narrow  channel,  not  exceeding  sixty  or 
seventy  yards  wide ;  the  whole  of  which  is  a  succession  of 
boiling  whirlpools.    Above  this  channel,  for  four  or  five  miles, 
the  river  is  one  deep  rapid,  at  the  upper  end  of  which  a  large 
mass  of  high  black  rock  stretches  across  from  the  north  side, 
and  nearly  joins  a  similar  mass  on  the  south :  they  are  divided 
by  a  strait  not  exceeding  fifty  yards  wide ;  and  through  this 
narrow  channel,  for  upwards  of  half  a  mile,  the  immense 
waters  of  the  Columbia  are  one  mass  of  foam,  and  force  their 
headlong  course  with  a  frightful  impetuosity,  which  cannot  at 
any  time  be  contemplated  without  producing  a  painful  giddiness. 
We  were  obliged  to  carry  all  our  lading  from  the  lower  to  the 
upper  narrows,  nearly  nine  miles.     The  canoes  were  dragged 
up  part  of  the  space   between  the  narrows.     This  laborious 
undertaking  occupied  two  entire  days,  in  consequence  of  the 
number  of  armed  men  we  were  obliged  to  keep  as  guards  to 
protect  those  who  carried  the  goods.     It  was  a  little  above  this 
place  where  our  party  had  been  recently  attacked,  and  we  were 
therefore  obliged  to  be  doubly  cautious.     The  chief  and  several 
of  the  Indians  kept  about  us  during  the  portage.     We  gave  them 
some  tobacco  and  trifling  presents  to  cultivate  their  friendship, 
in  return  for  which  they  brought  us  some  salmon.     They  had 
the  discrimination  to  see  from  our  numbers,  and  the  manner  we 
were  prepared  to  receive  them,  that  an  attack  would  be  attended 
with  rather  doubtful  success ;  and  therefore  feigned  an  appear- 
ance of  friendship,  which  we  affected  to  believe  sincere.     The 
propriety  of  "  assuming  a  virtue  if  you  have  it  not,"  however 


lil 


'^ 


w 


ATTEMPTSn  ROBBERY — INDIAN  VISITERS. 


^1 


i  ;• 


I  i  ^• 


questionable  in  morals,  must  be  oflen  practised  among  Indians ; 
for  they  are  such  thorough-bred  hypocrites  and  liars,  that  we 
found  it  often  necessary  to  repose  apparent  confidence  in  them 
when  we  well  knew  they  were  exerting  their  utmost  skill  to 
impose  on  and  deceive  us.  Even  here,  while  the  chief  and 
some  of  his  tribe  were  smoking  with  us  at  one  of  the  resting- 
places,  a  few  of  the  gentlemen  who  were  at  the  upper  end  of 
the  portage,  seeing  no  symptoms  of  danger,  wandered  a  short 
distance  among  the  rocks  to  view  the  narrows,  leaving  part  of 
the  goods  unguarded :  this  was  instantly  observed  by  two 
fellows  who  were  lurking  close  to  the  place,  and  who  availed 
themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  attempt  carrying  off  an  entire 
bale ;  but  finding  it  rather  heavy,  were  about  rifling  its  contents 
when  two  of  the  loaded  men  arrived,  and  gave  the  alarm.  The 
robbers  had  the  audacity  to  attack  the  men,  one  of  whom  they 
knocked  down ;  when  the  officers,  on  seeing  what  occurred, 
returned  back  quickly,  upon  which  the  savages  fled.  A  shot  was 
fired  at  them  by  our  best  marksman,  who  was  told  merely  to  wing 
one,  whicli  he  did  with  great  skill,  by  breaking  his  left  arm,  at 
upwards  of  a  hundred  yards  distance.  The  fellow  gave  a 
dreadful  shout  on  receiving  the  ball,  but  still  continued  his  flight 
with  his  comrade,  until  we  lost  sight  of  them.  This  piece  of 
severity  waa  deemed  necessary,  to  prevent  repetitions  of  similar 
aggressions.  The  chief,  in  strong  terms,  declared  his  ignorance 
of  any  previous  intention  on  the  part  of  these  fellows  to  commit 
robbery,  which  we  appeared  not  to  doubt ;  at  the  same  time 
giving  him  to  understand,  that  in  case  any  farther  attacks  were 
made,  our  balls  would  be  directed  to  a  more  mortal  part. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th  we  embarked,  and  proceeded  a 
few  miles  with  great  labour,  by  dragging  the  canoes  Bgainst  the 
current,  which  is  verj'  strong  between  the  upper  narrows  and 
the  falls.  The  passengers  all  walked,  and  at  some  ugly  rocky 
points  part  of  the  lading  had  to  be  taken  out :  this  consume  J  the 
greater  portion  of  the  day ;  and  we  encamped  that  evening  on 
the  south  side  near  the  foot  of  the  falls.  Here  several  Indians 
visited  us  ;  some  armed,  and  on  horseback,  others  unarmed,  and 
on  foot.  In  language,  dress,  and  manners,  they  appeared  to 
belong  to  distinct  nations.  The  horsemen  were  clean,  wore 
handsome  leathern  shirts  and  leg/^'ings,  and  had  a  bold  daring 
manner,  which  we  did  not  observe  with  any  of  the  tribes  from 
the  sea  upwards.  The  more  humble  pedestrians  were  the 
natives  of  the  place  ;  they  were  r  early  naked ;  and  rather  dirty 
in  their  persons,  and  professed  to  be  friendly :  but  from  several 
attempts  they  made  at  pilfering,  we  entertained  strong  doubts  of 
their  sincerity ;  and  were  obliged  to  order  them  to  remove  some 
distance  from  the  camp.    They  seemed  to  regard  the  mounted 


RAPIDS  AND   FALLS. 


79 


on 


..uians  with  a  suspicious  degree  of  apprehension,  for  which  we 
were  for  some  time  at  a  loss  to  account ;  but  which  we  subse- 
quently learned  was  caused  by  their  having  been  lately  at  war, 
in  which  they  were  vanquished,  and  several  of  their  tnbe  killed 
by  the  equestrians.  The  latter  remained  on  horseback  most  part 
01  the  time,  making  observations  on  our  party,  by  which  they 
apparently  intended  to  regulate  their  futixe  proceedings :  they 
made  no  show  of  friendship,  were  rath  jr  cold  and  distant  in 
their  manners,  and  appeared  to  be  a  reconnoitring  party  sent  out 
by  the  main  body  to  watch  our  progress.  As  a  precautionary 
measure,  we  judged  it  expedient  to  show  them  we  were  fully 
prepared  for  action,  and  accordingly  assembled  all  the  men  in 
the  evening,  each  encased  in  his  coat  of  mail,  and  armed  with  a 
musket  and  bayonet.  They  remained  looking  at  us  very  atten- 
tively, while  our  officers  proceeded  to  examine  each  man's  fire- 
lock with  all  due  military  solemnity :  one-half  of  the  men  were 
then  ordered  to  form  a  barrier  with  the  canoes  on  our  rear  and 
flanks,  which,  with  the  river  in  front,  effectually  served  to  pre- 
vent a  surprise  during  the  night.  The  whole  brigade  was 
equally  divided  ;  and  one-half  of  the  men  having  retired  to  rest, 
the  remainder  were  posted  as  sentinels  about  the  camp.  Owing 
to  the  extreme  heat,  the  Sandwich  islanders  had  thrown  off  their 
jackets  and  shirts  during  the  day,  and  their  swarthy  bodies  deco- 
rated with  buff  belts,  seemed  to  excite  the  particular  attention  of 
the  Indians,  who  repeatedly  pointed  towards  them,  and  then 
spoke  to  each  other  with  considerable  animation.  Having  com- 
pleted our  arrangements  for  the  night,  we  offered  them  some 
tobacco,  which  they  accepted,  and  then  left  us.  It  is  necessary 
to  observe  that  in  the  course  of  the  day  a  calumet  was  presented 
to  some  of  the  horsemen,  which  they  refused ;  from  which  cir- 
cumstance, joined  to  their  general  deportment,  we  were  led  to 
believe  their  visit  was  not  of  a  pacific  nature.  We  passed  the 
night  without  any  interruption  to  our  repose,  and  commenced 
the  portage  of  the  falls  early  on  the  morning  of  the  12th ;  but 
as  the  ground  over  which  the  men  were  obliged  to  carry  the 
baggage  was  covered  with  a  deep  bed  of  dry  loose  sand,  which 
fatigued  them  extremely,  they  did  not  finish  their  laborious  duty 
before  night.  We  encamped  late  at  the  upper  end  of  the  falls, 
near  a  village  of  the  Eneeshurs,  from  whom  we  purchased  some 
salmon.  A  few  of  the  horsemen  occasionally  reconnoitred  us 
during  the  day ;  but  as  our  men  made  short  resting-places,  or 
pauses  in  the  portage,  by  which  the  entire  party  were  always  in- 
view  of  each  other,  the  natives  made  no  hostile  attempt ;  and 
on  observing  the  manner  we  had  fortified  our  camp,  and  placed 
our  K-entineis  for  the  night,  they  departed.  The  principal  fall 
does  not  exceed  fifteen  feet  in  height ;  but  at  low  water  it  is 


I-   .  ! 


.     ( 

1  , 


It 


80 


COURSE   OF  THE   COLUMBIA. 


much  higher.  The  descent  of  the  Cohimbia  from  above  this 
fall  to  the  end  of  the  lower  narrows  exceeds  severity  feet,  and 
throughout  the  whole  distance  (about  ten  miles)  the  river  is 
strewed  with  immense  masses  of  hard  black  rock,  mostly  honey- 
combed, and  worn  into  a  variety  of  fantastic  shapes  by  the  per- 
petual friction  of  the  water  in  its  fearful  course  downwards. 
The  appearance  of  the  country  here  is  high,  rocky,  barren,  and 
without  timber  of  any  kind.  We  found  this  a  sensible  inconve- 
nience ;  for  we  were  obliged  to  purchase  some  drift-wood  from 
the  Indians  for  the  purposes  of  cooking. 

On  quitting  this  place  the  following  morning,  a  number  of 
natives  collected  about  us,  among  whom  we  distributed  a  quan- 
tity of  tobacco.  The  river  for  some  distance  above  this  place 
is  deep  and  rapid,  and  the  banks  steep  and  rocky.  The  canoes 
were  dragged  up  several  miles,  and  some  of  them  damaged  by 
the  rocks.  About  four  or  five  miles  above  the  fall,  a  high  rocky 
island,  three  miles  in  length,  lies  in  thp  centre  of  the  river,  on 
which  the  Indians  were  employed  drying  salmon,  great  quantities 
of  which  were  cured  and  piled:  under  broad  boards  in  stacks. 
We  encamped  on  the  north  sice  opposite  the  island,  and  were 
visited  by  some  Indians,  from  whom  we  purchased  salmon  :  they 
appeared  friendly,  and  belonged  to  the  Eneeshur  tribe  at  the 
falls. 

Here,  and  for  several  hundred  miles  farther  upwards,  the 
country  assumes  a  new  aspect :  it  is  free  from  any  rising  grounds 
or  timber,  and  on  each  side  nothing  is  to  be  seen  but  immense 
plains  stretching  a  great  distance  to  the  north  and  south :  the  soil 
is  dry  and  sandy,  and  covered  with  a  loose  parched  grass,  grow- 
ing in  tufts.  The  natives  reside  solely  on  the  northern  side : 
they  have  plenty  of  horses,  and  are  generally  friendly.  Here 
also  rattlesnakes  are  first  seen,  and  are  found  for  four  or  five 
hundred  miles  farther  on.  Between  this  place  and  Lewis  River 
the  Columbia  is  interrupted  by  several  rapids ;  some  of  which 
are  trifling,  others  dangerous ;  but  there  are  long  intervals  of 
smooth  current  which  occasionally  allowed  us  to  hoist  small  sails, 
and  thereby  diminish  the  laborious  duty  of  the  canoe-men  in 
paddlirg. 


rnOVXBIONS nCMARKABLi:   ESCAPE. 


«•«:« 


■'   .-^tV -,■■.«'.*. 


HI 


of 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Party  commonco  eating  horses — Ilemarkalilo  escape  from  a  rattloanake — Kill 
numbers  of  them — Arrive  among  the  Wallaii  Wallah  tribe — Uescription  of 
the  country — The  Pierced-nose  Indians — Autiior's  parly  proceeds  up  Lewis 
River — Purchase  horses  for  the  land-lravelling — Prickly  pears — Awkward 
accident — Leave  the  canoes,  and  journey  inland. 

"  -      i,  ■ .-  ■  " 

The  day  after  quitting  the  encampment  at  tlie  end  of  the  rocky 
island,  we  stopped  about  one  o'clock  at  a  village,  where  we  pur- 
chased five  horses.  The  value  of  the  goods  we  paid  for  each 
in  England  would  not  exceed  five  shillings.  As  these  horses 
were  intended  for  the  kettle,  they  were  doomed  to  instant 
destruction.  Our  comparatively  recent  separation  from  the  land 
of  "  bread  and  butter"  caused  the  idea  of  feeding  on  so  useful 
and  noble  an  animal  to  be  at  first  highly  repugnant  to  our  feel- 
ings ;  but  example,  and  above  all,  necessity,  soon  conquered 
these  little  qualms  of  civilization ;  and  in  a  few  days  we  almost 
brought  ourselves  to  believe  that  the  animal  on  which  we  fed 
once  carried  horns,  was  divided  in  the  hoof,  and  chewed  the  cud. 
A  curious  incident  occurred  at  this  spot  to  one  of  our  men  named 
La  Course,  which  was  nearly  proving  fatal,  This  man  had 
stretched  himself  on  the  ground,  after  the  fatigue  of  the  day, 
with  his  head  resting  on  a  small  package  of  goods,  and  quickly 
fell  asleep.     While  m  this  situation  I  passed  him,  and  was  almost 

{)etrified  at  i^ieeing  a  large  rattlesnake  moving  from  his  side  to  his 
eft  breast.  My  fi:'st  impulse  was  to  alarm  La  Course  ;  but  an 
old  Canadian  whom  I  had  beckoned  to  the  spot  requested  me  to 
make  no  noise,  alleging  it  would  merely  cross  the  body,  and  go 
away.  He  was  mistaken  ;  for  on  reaching  the  man's  left  shoulder, 
the  serpent  deliberately  coiled  itself,  but  did  not  appear  to  medi- 
tate an  attack.  Having  made  signs  to  several  others,  who  joined 
us,  it  was  determined  that  two  men  should  advance  a  little 
in  front,  to  divert  the  attention  of  the  snake,  while  one  should 
approach  La  Course  behind,  and  with  a  long  stick  endeavour  to 
remove  it  from  his  body.  The  snake,  on  observing  the  men 
advance  in  front,  instantly  raised  its  head,  darted  out  its  forked 
tongue,  and  shook  its  rattles ;  all  indications  c^f  anger.  Every 
one  was  now  in  a  state  of  i'everish  agitation  as  to  the  late  of 
poor  La  Course,  who  still  lay  slumbering,  unconscious  of  hia 
danger  ;  when  the  man  behind,  who  had  procured  a  stick  seven 
feet  in  length,  suddenly  placed  one  end  of  it  under  the  coiled 
reptile,  and  succeeded  in  pitching  it  upwards  of  ten  feet  from 
the  man's  body.    A  shout  of  jov  was  the  first  intimation  La 

K 


1 


^1 


r 


82 


MOSQUITOES — nATTLESNAKES. 


Hi ' 


3il 


.M 


l«li* 


1^ 


Course  received  of  his  wonderful  escape,  while  in  the  mean 
time  the  man  with  the  stick  pursued  the  snake,  which  he  killed. 
It  was  three  feet  six  inches  long,  and  eleven  years  old,  which  I 
need  not  inform  my  readers  we  easily  ascertained  by  the  number 
of  rattles.     A  general  search  was  then  commenced  about  the 
encampment,  and  under  several  rocks  we  found  upwards  of 
fifty  of  them,  all  of  which  we  destroyed.     There  is  no  danger 
attending  their  destruction,  provided  a  person  has  a  long  pliant 
stick,  and  docs  not  approach  them  nearer  than  their  length,  for 
they  r.  anoi  spring  beyond  it,  and  seldom  act  on  the  onensive 
iX''   ,     closely  pursued.     They  have  a  strong  repugnance  to  the 
■iii'jil  '"f  tobacco,  in  consequence  of  which  we  opened  a  bale  of 
v\  :u;       rewed  a  quantity  of  loose  leaves  about  the  tents,  by 
Vi  'i^^Ai  m«'"'  .f  we  avoided  their  visits  during  the  night.     We  had 
hoivever  lu  ..  v  as  bad  visiters — the  mosquitoes,  which,  from  the 
falls  upwards,  annoyed  us  dreadfully.     We  were  obliged  to 
make  a  slight  fire  of  rotten  wood  in  the  cul-de-sac  of  our  tents, 
which  merely  caused  a  smoke  without  flame,  and  which  effect- 
ually drove  them  away :  but  the  remedy  was  as  bad  as  the 
disease,  as  we  were  nearly  blinded  and  suffocated  by  the  smoke. 
Owing  to  the  many  accidents  which  befell  our  canoes  in  the 
rapids,  and  the  time  consequently  employed  in  repairing  them, 
and  drying  damaged  goods,  our  progress  was  greatly  retarded, 
and  we  did  not  reach  the  Wallah  Wallah  river  until  the  28th. 
During  tY  ^  period  we  generally  encamped  on  the  northern  banks 
of  the  r'lver :  purchased  a  number  of  horses  for  eating ;  and 
were  several  times  without  wood  for  cooking  them.     The 
Indians  behaved  in  the  most  peaceable  manner,  and  freely  barter- 
ed with  us  such  other  provisions  as  they  could  spare.     A  few 
miles  below  the  Wallah  Wallah  the  land  on  the  other  side  rises 
into  rocky  cliffs,  near  two  hundred  feet  high,  which  extend  some 
distance  inland.     There  is  a  long  and  very  dangerous  rapid  at 
their  base,  which,  by  way  of  pre-eminence,   the   Canadians 
call  the  Grande  Rapide.     We  landed  on  the  south  side,  up  which 
the  canoes  were  dragged  with  great  difficulty.     We  observed 
immense  numbers  of  rattlesnakes  here,  basking  in  the  sun,  and 
under  the  rocks,  several  of  which  we  killed.     Half  a  dozen  of 
us  fired  together  at  a  batch  lying  under  one  rock,  and  killed  or 
wounded  thirty-seven!     Our  guns  were  charged  with  goose 
shot.     There  was  scarcely  a  stone  in  this  place  which  was  not 
covered  with  them.     All  the  time  we  walked  we  were  con- 
stantly on  the  qui  vive ;  and,  I  need  not  say,  picked  our  steps 
very  cautiously.     From  the  friendly  character  of  the  natives  we 
had  thrown  by  our  armour  for  some  days,  which  relieved  us 
greatly ;  the  heat,  while  we  were  obliged  to  wear  it,  being  almost 
insupportable.    Above  this  rocky  emmence  the  country  opened 


\l 


TUB   WALLAH   WALLAH. 


/ 


again  into  an  extended  plain.  The  river  here,  and  for  several 
miles  lower  down,  is  occasionally  bordered  with  straggling 
clusters  of  willow,  cotton-wood,  stunted  red  cedar,  and  sumach, 
with  quantities  of  sarsaparilla.  There  is  also  abundance  of  furze 
bushes  and  wormwood,  througli  which  we  observed  several 
hares  running,  some  of  which  we  killed. 

In  the  evening  we  encamped  at  the  entrance  of  the  Wallah 
Wallah  river :  a  number  of  that  tribe  visited  us,  and  remained 
for  some  time  smoking.  We  informed  Tamtappam,  their  chief, 
that  we  wanted  good  horses  fit  to  carry  luggage,  and  others  to 
eat,  and  requested  he  would  procure  for  us  as  many  as  he  could 
the  following  day :  this  he  promised  to  do,  and  departed. 

On  the  29th  wc  purchased  twenty  horses  for  Mr.  Robert 
Stuart's  party ;  which  being  deemed  sufficient  for  them,  he,  with 
Messrs.  Crooks  and  M'Lelland,  and  eight  men,  1*"     is  the  next 
morning  under  a  salute  of  three  cheers,  to  pursue   hei.     anger- 
ous  journey  across  the  mountains,  and  thence  by  ♦he  ft'     ourito 
St.  Louis.     The  Wallah  Wallahs  were  deci  cJ'v  i.'.e   most 
friendly  tribe  we  had  seen  on  the  river  ;  they  h    '  aV;  air  of  open 
unsuspecting  confidence  in  their  manner,  that  at       ce  banished 
suspicion,  and  ensured  our  friendship.     There  was  a  degree  of 
natural  politeness,  too,  evinced  by  them  on  en       nc  their  lodges,  i 
which  we  did  not  see  practised  by  any  oti.  iS.     We  visited  I 
several  families  in  the  village  ;  and  the  moment  we  entered,  the , 
best  place  was  selected  for  us,  and  a  clean  mat  spread  to  sit  on  ;  ( 
while  the  inmates,  particularly  the  women  and  the  children, 
remainded  at  a  respectful  distance,  without  manifesting  any  of 
the  obtrusive  curiosity  about  our  arms  or  clothing,  by  vvhich  we 
were  so  much  annoyed  among  the  lower  tribes.     The  females, 
also,  were  distinguished  by  a  degree  of  attentive  kindness,  totally 
removed  from  the  disgusting  familiarity  of  the  kilted   ladies 
below  the  rapids,  and  equally  free  from  an  affection  of  prudery ; 
prostitution  is  unknown  among  them ;  and  I  believe  no  induce- ' 
ment  would  tempt  them  to  commit  a  breach  of  chastity. 

The  Wallah  Wallah  is  a  bold,  rapid  stream,  about  fifty-five 
yards  wide,  and  upwards  of  six  feet  deep :  the  water  is  clear, 
and  rolls  over  a  bed  of  sand  and  gravel.  On  the  31st  we 
moved  up  to  the  north  side  of  the  mouth  of  Lewis  River,  which 
is  about  fourteen  miles  above  the  Wallah  Wallah  :  its  course  is 
nearly  due  west,  and  at  its  junction  with  the  Columbia  it  is 
upwards  of  six  hundred  yards  wic'e.  The  current  is  very  rapid ; 
its  waters  deep,  whitish,  and  slightly  tepid,  in  which  respect  it 
forms  a  marked  contrast  to  the  Columbia,  the  waters  of  which 
are  quite  clear  and  cool :  the  latter  river  at  this  place  is  upwards 
of  one  thousand  yards  wide,  and  the  current  descends  at  an  even 
rate  of  about  four  miles  an  hour.    A  little  below  the  junction, 


i    . 


1 


!  h    i 


1  (I 


'M 


11  THE   PIRnCED*N09E!   INDIANS — INDIAN    CLOTHIfrO. 

however,  it  widens  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  linlf,  and  ha» 
geveral  islands,  two  of  which  arc  low  an<l  sandy,  and  arc  nearly 
three  miles  in  length.     lielovv  these  islands  a  ranirc  of  high  hills 
arc  seen  on  each  side  of  the  river,  running  nearly  fio.ii  S.  W, 
to  N.  E.,  and  uncovered  hy  any  timber :  hut  at  an  immense  dis- 
tance, in    a   southeasterly  direction,  a  chain  of  high  craggy 
mountains  arc  visible,  from  which  it  is  supposed  the  Wallah 
Wallah  takes  its  rise.     From  their  colour  the  Canadians  called 
this  chain  Les  Montagues  Bleues.     The  banks  of  both  rivers, 
at  their  junction,  are  low,  with  a  gentle  rise  on  each  side.     The 
plains  are  covered  with  immense   cjuantitics  of  prickly-pear, 
which  was  a  source  of  great  annoyance.     Above  Lewis  River 
the  Columbia  runs  in  a  northerly  direction :  below  it,  in  a  west- 
erly.    We  remained  here  three  days,  purchasing  horses  for  our 
journey  inland.     Mr.  David  Stuart  and  a  party  proceeded  in 
their  canoes  up  the  Columbia,  to  the  trading  establishment  which 
he  had  formed  at  Oakinagan  river,  which  falls  into  the  Columbia, 
from  the  northward,  about  two  hundred  and  eight  miles  above 
this  place.     Mr.  Donald  M'Kenzie  and  his  party  proceeded  up 
Lewis  River  in  order  to  establish  a  trading  post  on  the  upper 
parts  of  it,  or  in  the  country  of  the  Snake  Indians;  his  choice 
to    be    regulated  according  to  the  appearances  of  beaver  in 
either  place.     The  natives  of  this  district  are  called  the  Pierced- 
nose  Indians ;  but  as  French  is  the  language  in  general  use 
among  traders  in  this  country,  owing  to  most  part  of  their  work- 
ing men  being  Canadians,  we  commonly  called  them  Lez  Nez 
Percen.     They  do  not  differ  much  from  the  Wallah  Wallahs  in 
their  dress  or  language,  but  arc  not  so  friendly,  and  demand 
higher  pi'iccs  for  thoir  horses.     Their  habitations  are  covered 
with  large  mats,  fixed  on  poles ;  some  are  square,  others  oblong, 
and  some  conical :  they  are  of  various  sizes,  from  twenty  to 
seventy  feet  long,  and  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  brond.     There  are 
no  interior  divisions,  and  an  opening  in  the  top  serves  the  double 
purpose  of  a  window  and  chimney.     These  dwellings  are  pretty 
free  from  vermin,   and    arc  easily  changed   when  occasion 
requires.     The  women  wear  leathern  robes,  which  cover  the 
shoulders,  part  of  the  arms,  the  breasts,  and  reach  down  to  their 
legs.     The  men  have  robes  nearly  similar,  but  not  so  long,  with 
leggings  which  reach  up  half  the  thigh,  and  are  fastened  to  a 
belt  round  the  waist  by  leathern  thongs.     They  are  clean,  active, 
and  smart-looking,  good  hunters,  and  excellent  horsemen.    They 
enjoy  good  health,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  sore  eyes, 
did  not  appear  to  have  any  disorder.     They  are  fond  of  their 
children,  and  attentive  to  the  wants  of  their  old  people.     Their 
saddles  are  made  of  dressed  deer-skin  stuffed  with  hair:  the 
stirrups  are  wooden,  with  the  bottom  broad  and  flat,  and  covered 


LEWIS    RIVEIl — PANOEROIS    I'ASS. 


8» 


over  with  raw  skin,  which  wlicn  dry  becomes  hard,  and  lasts  a/ 
long  time.     The  bridles  are  merely  rope.s  made  out  of  the  hair/ 
of  the  horses'  tails,  and  are  tied  round  their  under  jaw.     Thc^ 
women  ride  like  the  men :  their  saddles  are  high  in  front  audi 
rear,  and  formed  somcthin<r  like  the  humps  of  a  camel's  back ; 
and  they  must  brinj?  their  horses  to  a  rock  or  old  tree  to  enable 
them  to  mount.     The  men  are  hard  and  unfeeling  riders :  the 
rope  bridles  cut  the  corners  of  the  poor  horses'  mouths  ;  and  tho 
■saddles  generally  leave  their  bucks  (juite  raw :  yet  in  this  state 
tljey  ride  them  for  several  days  successively  without  the  least 
pity  for  the  torture<l  animals.     We  got  plenty  of  salmon  while 
we  remained  here,  and  some  lamprey  eels,  the  latter  of  which 
were  oily  and  very  strong.     Having  purchased  twenty-five 
horses,  wo  took  our  departure  on  the  3d  of  August^  and  pro- 
ceeded up  Lewis  River ;  some  on  land  with  the  horses,  but  the 
greater  part  still  in  the  canoes.     The  water  was  very  high  and 
rapid,  and  in  many  places  the  banks  steep  and  shelving,  which 
made   the  process  of  dragging   up   the  canoes  very  (hflicult. 
Poling  was  quite  impossible  ;  for  on  the  oti",  or  outer  side,  the 
men  could  not  find  bottom  with  their  poles.     I  remained  on 
shore  part  of  the  time  with  the  horses.     In  some  places  the  path 
wound  along  the  almost  perpendicular  declivities  of  high  hills,  on 
the  banks  of  the  river,  and  was  barely  wide  enough  for  one 
horse  at  a  time.     Yet  along  these  dangerous  roads  the  Indians 
galloped  with  the  utmost  composure  ;  while  one  false  step  would  ' 
have  hurled  them  down  a  precipice  of  three  hundred  feet  into; 
the  torrent  below.     Even  M^alking  along  these  dangerous  decli-, 
vities,  leading  my  horse,  I  experienced  an  indescribable  sensation) 
of  dread  on  looking  down  the  frightful  abyss. 

On  the  7th  we  reached  a  small  stream,  which  falls  into  the 
Lewis  River  from  the  north :  the  mouth  is  wide,  and  forms  a 
kind  of  semicircular  bay,  but  suddenly  narrows  to  about  ten  or 
twelve  yards.  A  village  of  about  forty  mat-covered  tents  was 
situated  at  its  junction  with  the  main  river.  The  inhabitants 
were  busily  employed  in  catching  and  drying  salmon  for  their 
winter  and  spring  stock ;  and  as  it  was  here  we  intended  to 
leave  the  canoes,  and  proceed  to  our  destination  by  land,  we 
encamped  on  the  west  side  of  the  little  bay,  and  immediately 
commenced  a  trade  witli  the  natives  for  horses.  This  place  is 
not  more  than  fifty  miUs  from  the  Columbia ;  but  owing  to  the 
rapidity  of  the  current,  and  the  many  rapids  with  which  it  was 
interrupted,  our  progress  was  slow.  The  business  of  collecting 
and  catching  the  horses,  which  generally  occupied  until  eleven 
or  twelve  o'clock  each  day,  also  contributed  to  cause  this  delay. 
With  the  exception  of  small  willow  and  cotton- wood,  there  are 
no  trees  from  the  Columbia  upwards.    The  ground  is  covered 


H 


¥ 


/ 


8G 


Tiir.  rRirKLV-i'KAR — Tiien'i. 


a 


with  loose  grans,  and  abonndM  in  great  qunnlitieH  of  the  prickly- 
pear,  the  tliurns  of  wlii(;li  are  reinarkaWly  Nliarp,  uiul  Htrong 
cnougii  to  penetrate  the  leather  of  the  thiekest  inoceaHins. 

On  the  third  day.  while  riding  u  short  dintance  ahead  of  the 
men,  my  horse  hapnened  to  stand  on  a  bunch  of  the  prickly- 
pear.s,  which  pained  liini  so  much  that  he  c()mm(;nce(l  plunging 
and  kicking,  and  nllimatciy  threw  me  into  a  cluster  of  them.  My 
face,  neck,  and  body  were  severely  pierccti  ;  and  every  ellbrt 
to  rise  only  increased  the  painfulness  uf  my  situation,  for  whcro- 
eVer  I  placed  my  hands  to  assist  in  raising  my  body,  they  came 
in  contact  with  the  same  torttienting  thorns.  In  fact  I  could  not 
move  an  inch  ;  and  to  add  to  my  disaster,  I  observed  three  rattle- 
snakes within  n  few  feet  of  my  head.  The  men  who  were  in 
the  rear  driving  the  horses,  hearing  my  cries,  (juickly  came  to  my 
assistance,  and  with  considerable  difliculty  disentangled  mo  from 
my  painful  situation ;  the  snakes  in  the  mean  time  had  disap- 
peared. I  immediately  hailed  the  cnnocs,  and  resumed  my  old 
place  on  board,  firmly  resolved  never  again  to  ride  while  a 
prickly-pear  was  visible. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  fishing  village  were  part  of  the 
Pierced-nosc  Indians.  We  remainerl  here  seven  days,  endea- 
vouring to  complete  our  number  of  horses,  which  we  nt  length 
cfTected.  The  natives  were  hard  to  deal  with,  and  we  had  to 
raise  our  prices.  Several  trilling  articles  were  stolen  from  us, 
which  the  chief  promised  to  recover ;  but  he  either  made  no 
attempt,  or  the  means  he  used  were  inefl'ectual.  He  apologized 
for  his  want  of  success,  by  saying  that  the  thieves  belonged  to 
another  tribe  higher  up  the  river,  and  that  they  had  departed 
with  the  stolen  property.  In  their  dress,  language,  and  dwell- 
ings, these  people  differed  little  from  those  at  the  mouth  of 
Lewis  River.  On  the  evening  of  the  14th  we  laid  up  our 
bateaux  and  canoes  in  a  snug  spot  covered  with  willow  and 
loose  shrubs,  and  recommended  them  to  the  care  of  the  chief, 
who  promised  that  they  should  be  carefully  preserved  until  our 
return  the  following  spring.  We  made  him  a  present  of  a 
fathom  of  blue  cloth,  an  axe,  and  a  knife  ;  to  his  wife  we  gave  a 
few  strings  of  white  and  blue  beads,  and  three  dozen  of  hawk- 
bells  for  her  chemise  dc  cuir ;  and  among  the  remainder  we 
distributed  a  few  heads  of  leaf-tobacco. 

We  purchased  altogether  fifty  horses  to  carry  the  goods  and 
baggage  ;  and  from  the  difficulty  we  experienced  in  procuring 
that  number,  we  were  not  able  to  obtain  enough  for  our  own 
use.  M'Lennan  and  I,  however,  succeeded  in  purchasing  one 
for  our  joint  use ;  and  Farnham  and  Pillet  got  another.  The 
men  also  obtained  a  few,  which  occasionally  served  to  relieve 
them  in  the  progress  of  their  journey.    Our  destination  was 


H  i  I 


OVIB-LAND  JOITRNBY— riiEAUANT   HALT. 


;  a 


fixed  for  the;  Snokan  trilM;  o(  IiuIiaiiH,  whose  lands  lay  about  ono 
hundred  und  fiiiy  miles  from  Lewis  Uivcr.iri  ii  north-cast  direction, 
and  among  whom  we  were  given  to  understand  th»)  North-west 
Company  had  already  estahlished  a  trading  post  front  the  'jost 
side  of  the  Uocky  Mountains.  We  also  engaged  an  Indian 
guide  to  conduct  us  to  the  Npokan  lands. 

On  the  15th  of  August,  at  five  a.  m.,  we  took  our  departure 
from  Lewis  River.  Our  party  consisted  of  one  proprietor,  four 
clerks,  twenty-one  Canadians,  and  six  Sandwich  islanders,  with 
the  Indian  guide.  We  proceeded  nearly  due  north  along  tho 
banks  of  tho  small  river,  lor  some  miles,  through  an  open  plain, 
which  was  bounded  by  a  range  of  steep  rugged  hills,  running 
from  the  westward,  over  which  we  had  to  cross.  In  somo 
places  the  path  led  over  steep  and  slippery  rocks,  and  was  so 
narrow,  that  the  horses,  which  were  loaded  with  large  bales, 
could  not  pass  without  running  the  risk  of  falling  down  tho 
craggy  precipices;  and  the  men  were  obliged  tt*  unload  them, 
and  place  the  bales  singly  on  the  to|)  of  the  pack-saddles. 
Aller  we  had  passed,  us  we  imagined,  the  most  dangerous 
part  of  the  pathway,  and  had  commenced  our  descent  into 
the  plain,  one  of  the  horses  missed  his  footing,  and  rolled 
down  a  declivity  of  two  hundred  feet,  loaded  with  two  cases  of 
axes :  the  cases  were  broken,  und  their  contents  scattered  about 
the  rocks ;  but,  with  the  exception  of  his  sides,  the  skin  of 
which  was  scraped  oil",  the  horse  received  no  material  injury. 
We  arrived  on  the  north  side  of  these  hills  about  eleven  o'clock, 
when  we  stopped  to  breakfast  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  which 
here  turns  to  the  eastward.  Wc  resumed  our  journey  at  two 
o'clock,  and  suffered  severely  during  the  day  from  the  intense 
heat,  and  the  want  of  water.  The  country  was  a  continued 
plain,  with  sandy  and  rocky  bottom,  mixed  with  loose  tufls  of 
grass.  About  seven  in  the  evening  we  reached  a  cool  stream, 
on  the  banks  of  which  were  a  profusion  of  wild  chcrriea,  currants, 
and  blackberries,  which  atibrded  us  an  unexpected  and  welcome 
treat.  We  encamped  here  for  the  night ;  and  did  not  hobble 
the  horses,*  as  we  were  certain  the  luxurious  herbage  of  the 
prairie  would  prevent  them  from  wandering. 

At  four  A.  M.,  on  the  I6th,  we  set  off  from  our  encampment, 
still  pursuing  a  northerly  course.  The  country  still  champaign, 
ttDd  the  grass  long  and  coarse,  but  loosely  imbedded  in  a  sandy 
Mil.  About  eight  we  came  to  a  fine  spruig,  at  which  we  bi^eak- 
fasted,  as  our  guide  told  us  we  should  not  find  water  beyond  it 
for  n  c;reat  distance.  After  waiting  here  a  few  hours,  we  reloaded, 
and  pursued  our  journey  in  the  same  direction.     During  the 

*  When  we'  wore  apprehensive  that  the  horses  might  wander  from  an 
encampment,  their  two  fore  legs  were  tied  together.    This  we  called  hobbling^ 


88 


INDIAN    PRECISION — JOURNEY    CONTINUED. 


I  remainder  of  the  day  no  "  green  spot  bloomed  on  the  desert" 
f  around  us.     The  country  was  completely  denuded  of  wood  ; 
I  and  as  far  as  the  eye  extended,  nothing  was  visible  but  immense 
j  plains  covered  with  parched  brown  grass,  swarming  with  rattle- 
I   snakes.    The  horses  suffered  dreadfully,  as  well  us  their  masters, 
I    from  heat  and  thirst.    Two  fine  pointers  belonging  to  Mr.  Clarke 
I    were  so  exhausted  that  we  More  compelled  to  leave  them  behind, 
and  never  saw  them  afterward.     Several  of  the  horses  being 
'    on  the  point  of  giving  up,  and  numbers  of  the  men  scarcely  able 
to  walk,  Mr.  Clarke  sharply  questioned  the  guide  as  to  his  know- 
ledge of  the  country,  and  the  probable  time  we  might  expect  to 
fall  in  with  water ;  the  latter  saw  his  doubts,  and  calmly  replied, 
pointing  to  the  sun,  that  when  it  should  have  gained  a  certain 
distance  we  might  expect  relief.     We  knew  half  an  hour  would 
not  elapse  before  it  should  attain  the  desired  point,  and  every 
watch  was  out  to  judge  of  the  Indian's  accuracy.     He  was 
right ;  and  about  half-past  five  v.  m.  we  reached  a  small  siream, 
by  the  side  of  which  we  encamped  for  the  night.     The  guide 
gave  us  to  understand  we  should  find  plenty  of  water  the  follow- 
ing day. 


CHAPTER  Vni. 

Author  Ingea  the  party — Curious  adventures,  and  surprising  escapes  from  ser- 
pents and  wild  boasts,  during  fourteen  day^  in  a  wilderness — Meets  with 
Indians,  by  whom  he  is  hospitably  received,  and  conducted  to  his  friends. 


nji}      ( 


* 


1 

1 

^ 

\    '';' 

ij'     i. 

r,  1  i ' 

1 

'i 

1     • 

i!Li^- 


On  the  17th  of  August  we  left  our  encampment  a  little  after 
four  A.  M.  During  the  forenoon  the  sun  was  intensely  hot. 
Occasional  bright  green  patches,  intermixed  with  wild  flowers, 
and  gently  rising  eminences,  partially  covered  with  clumps  of 
small  trees,  gave  an  agreeable  variety  to  the  face  of  the  country ; 
which  we  enjoyed  the  more,  from  the  scorched  and  sterile 
uniformity  of  the  plains  through  which  we  had  passed  on  the 
two  preceding  days.  We  got  no  water,  however,  until  twelve 
o'clock,  when  we  arrived  in  a  small  valley  of  the  most  delightful 
verdure,  through  which  ran  a  clear  stream  from  the  northward, 
over  a  pebbly  bottom.  The  horses  were  immediately  turned 
loose  to  regale  themselves  in  the  rich  pasture  ;  and  as  it  was  full 
of  red  and  white  clover,  orders  were  given  not  to  catch  them 
until  two  o'clock,  by  which  time  we  thought  they  would  be  suffi- 
ciently refreshed  for  the  evening's  journey. 


H'-. 


\r 


AUTHOR   LOSFS   THE   PARTY. 


89 


w 


e  after 


After  walking  and  riding  eight  hours,  I  need  not  say  we  made 
a  hearty  breakfost ;  after  which  I  wandered  some  distance  along 
the  banks  of  the  rivulet  in  search  of  cherries,  and  came  to  a 
sweet  little  arbour  formed  by  sumach  and  cherry  trees.  I 
pulled  a  quantity  of  the  fruit,  and  sat  down  in  the  retreat  to 
enjoy  its  refreshing  coolness.  It  was  a  charming  spot,  and  on  the 
opposite  bank  was  a  delightful  wildernesaof  crimson  haw,  honey- 
suckles, wild  roses,  and  currants :  its  resemblance  to  a  friend's 
summer-house,  in  which  I  had  spent  many  happy  days,  brought 
back  home,  with  all  its  endearing  recollections  ;  and  my  scattered 
thoughts  were  successively  occupied  with  the  past,  the  present, 
and  the  future.  In  this  state  I  fell  into  a  kind  of  pleasing,  soothing 
revery,  which,  joined  to  the  morning's  fatigue,  gradually  sealed 
my  eyelids  ;  and  unconscious  of  my  situation,  I  resigned  myself 
to  the  influence  of  the  drowsy  god.  Imagine  my  feelings  when 
I  awoke  in  the  evening,  I  think  it  was  about  five  o'clock  from 
the  declining  appearance  of  the  sun  !  All.  was  calm  and  silent 
as  the  grave.  I  hastened  to  the  spot  where  we  had  breakfasted : 
I  ran  to  the  place  where  the  men  had  made  their  fire :  all,  all 
were  gone,  and  not  a  vestige  of  man  or  horse  appeared  in  the 
valley.  My  senses  almost  failed  me.  I  called  out,  in  vain,  in 
every  direction,  until  I  became  hoarse  ;  and  I  could  no  longer 
conceal  from  myself  the  dreadful  truth  that  I  was  alone  in  a 
wild,  uninhabited  country,  without  horse  or  arms,  and  destitute 
of  covering. 

Having  now  no  resource  but  to  ascertain  the  direction  which 
the  party  had  taken,  I  set  about  examining  the  ground,  and  at 
the  north-east  point  of  the  valley  discovered  the  tracks  of  horses' 
feet,  which  I  followed  for  some  time,  and  which  led  to  a  chain 
of  small  hills,  with  a  rocky  gravelly  bottom,  on  which  the  hoofs 
made  no  impression.  Having  thus  lost  the  tracks,  I  ascended 
the  highest  of  the  hills,  from  which  I  had  an  extended  view  of 
many  miles  around  ;  but  saw  no  sign  of  the  party,  or  the  least 
indication  Of  human  habitations.  The  evening  was  now  closing 
fast,  and  with  the  approach  of  night  a  heavy  dew  commenced 
falling.  The  whole  of  my  clothes  consisted  merely  of  a  gingham 
shirt,  nankeen  trousers,  and  a  pair  of  light  leather  moccasins, 
much  worn.  About  an  hour  before  bici^kfast,  in  consequence 
of  the  heat,  I  had  taken  off"  my  coat,  and  placed  it  on  one  of  the 
loaded  horses,  intending  to  put  it  on  towards  the  cool  of  the 
evening ;  and  one  of  the  men  had  charge  of  my  fowling-piece. 
I  was  even  without  my  hat ;  for  in  the  agitated  state  of  my  mind 
on  awaking,  I  had  left  it  behind,  and  had  advanced  too  far  to 
think  of  returning  for  it.  At  some  distance  on  my  left,  I  observed 
a  field  of  high  strong  grass,  to  which  I  proceeded,  and  after 
pulling  enough  to  place  under  and  over  me,  I  recommended 


m 


m 


k 


% 


i!  ! 


90 


DESTITUTE    SITUATION FORTUNATE    ESCAPE. 


k    >      •»■., 


myself  to  the  Almighty,  and  fell  asleep.  During  the  night  con- 
fused dreams  of  warm  houses,  feather-beds,  poisoned  arrows, 
prickly-pears,  and  rattlesnakes,  haunted  my  disturbed  imagi- 
nation. 

On  the  18th  I  arose  with  the  sun,  quite  wet  and  chilly,  the 
heavy  dew  having  completely  saturated  my  flimsy  covering,  and 
proceeded  in  an  easterly  direction,  nearly  parallel  with  the  chain 
of  hills.  In  tbj  course  of  the  day  I  passed  several  small  lakes 
full  of  wild-fowl.  The  general  appearance  of  the  country  was 
flat,  the  soil  light  and  gravelly,  and  covered  with  the  same  loose 
grass  already  mentioned  ;  great  quantities  of  it  had  been  recently 
burned  by  the  Indians  in  hunting  the  deer,  the  stubble  of  which 
annoyed  my  feet  very  much.  I  had  tui'ned  into  a  northerly 
course,  where,  late  in  the  evening,  I  observed,  about  a  mile 
distant,  two  horsemen  galloping  in  an  easterly  direction.  From 
their  dresses  I  knew  they  belonged  to  our  party.  I  instantly  ran 
to  a  hillock,  and  called  out  in  a  voice,  to  which  hunger  had 
imparted  a  supernatural  shrillness;  but  they  galloped  on.  I  then 
took  off  m^'snirt,  which  I  waved  in  a  conspicuous  manner  over  my 
head,  accompanied  by  the  most  frantic  cries ;  still  they  continued 
on.  I  ran  towards  the  direction  they  were  galloping,  despair 
adding  wings  to  my  flight.  Rocks,  stubble,  and  brushwood  were 
passed  with  the  speed  of  a  hunted  antelope ;  but  to  no  purpose ; 
for  on  arriving  at  the  place  where  I  imagined  a  pathway  would 
have  brought  me  into  their  track,  I  was  completely  at  fault.  It 
was  now  nearly  dark.  I  had  eaten  nothing  since  the  noon  of 
the  preceding  day :  and,  faint  with  hunger  and  fatigue,  threw 
myself  on  the  grass,  when  1  heard  a  small  rustling  noise  behind 
me.  I  turned  round,  and,  with  horror,  beheld  a  large  rattle- 
snake cooling  himself  in  the  evening  shade.  I  instantly  retreated, 
on  observing  which  he  coiled  himself.  Having  obtained  a  large 
stone,  I  advanced  slowly  on  him,  and  taking  a  proper  aim, 
dashed  it  with  all  my  force  on  the  reptile's  head,  which  I  buried 
in  the  ground  beneath  the  stone. 

The  late  race  had  completely  worn  out  the  thin  soles  of  my 
moccasins,  and  my  feet  in  consequence  became  much  swollen. 
As  night  advanced,  I  was  obliged  to  look  out  for  a  place  to 
sleep,  and  after  some  time,  selected  nearly  as  good  a  bed  as  the 
one  I  had  the  first  night.  My  exertions  in  pulling  the  long 
coarse  grass  nearly  rendered  my  hands  useless,  by  severely 
cutting  all  the  joints  of  the  fingers. 

I  rose  before  tlic  sun  on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  and  pursued 
an  easterly  course  all  the  day.  I  at  first  felt  very  hungry,  but 
after  walking  a  few  miles,  and  taking  a  drink  of  water,  I  got  a 
httle  refreshed.  The  general  appearance  of  the  country  was 
still  flat,  with  burned  grass,  and  sandy  soil,  which  blistered  ray 
feet.    The  scorching  infiaence  of  the  sun  obliged  me  to  stop  for 


irsued 
but 
got  a 
was 
d  my 
■)p  for 


EXTREME    PRIVATION — MIDNIGHT   SERENADE. 


91 


some  hours  in  the  day  ;  during  whieh  I  made  several  ineffectual 
attempts  to  construct  a  covering  for  my  head.  At  times  I 
thought  my  brain  was  on  fire  from  the  dreadful  effects  of  the 
heat.  I  got  no  fruit  those  two  days,  and  towards  evening  felt 
very  weak  for  the  want  of  nourishment,  having  been  forty-eight 
hours  without  food  ;  and  to  make  my  situation  more  annoying,  I 
slept  that  evening  on  the  banks  of  a  j)retty  lake,  the  inhabitants 
of  which  would  have  done  honour  to  a  royal  table.  With  what 
an  evil  eye,  and  a  murderous  heart,  did  I  regard  the  stately 
goose,  and  the  plump  waddling  duck,  as  they  sported  on  the 
water,  unconscious  of  my  presence  !  Even  with  a  pocket- 
pistol  I  could  have  done  execution  among  them.  The  state  of 
my  fingers  prevented  me  from  obtaining  the  covering  of  grass 
which  I  had  the  two  preceding  nights ;  and  on  this  evening  I 
had  no  shelter  whatever  to  protect  me  from  the  heavy  dew. 

On  the  following  day,  the  20th,  my  course  was  nearly  north- 
east, and  lay  through  a  country  more  diversified  by  wood  and 
water.  I  saw  plenty  of  wild  geese,  ducks,  cranes,  curlews,  and 
sparrows,  also  some  hawks  and  cormorants,  and  at  a  distance 
about  fifteen  or  twenty  small  deer.  The  wood  consisted  of  pine, 
birch,  cedar,  wild  cherries,  hawthorn,  sweet-willow,  lioney- 
sucklc,  and  sumach.  The  rattlesnakes  were  very  numerous  this 
day,  with  horned  lizards,  and  grasshoppers :  the  latter  kept  me 
in  a  constant  state  of  feverish  alarm,  from  the  similarity  of  the 
noise  made  by  their  wings  to  the  sound  of  the  rattles  of  the 
snake,  when  preparing  to  dart  on  its  prey.  I  suffered  severely 
during  the  day  from  hunger,  and  was  obliged  to  chew  grass 
occasionally,  which  allayed  it  a  little.  Late  in  the  evening  I 
arrived  at  a  lake  upwards  of  two  miles  long,  and  a  mile  broad, 
the  shores  of  which  were  high,  and  v.'ell  wooded  with  large  pine, 
spruce,  and  birch.  It  was  fed  by  two  rivulets,  from  the  north 
and  north-east,  in  which  I  observed  a  quantity  of  small  fish  ;  but 
had  no  means  of  catching  any,  or  I  should  have  made  a  Sand- 
wich Island  meal.  There  was,  however,  an  abundant  supply  of 
■wild  cherries,  on  which  I  made  a  hearty  supper.  I  slept  on  the 
bank  of  the  nearest  stream,  just  where  it  entered  the  lake  ;  but 
during  the  night  the  howling  of  wolves,  and  growling  of  bears, 
broke  in  terribly  on  my  slumbers,  and  "  balmy  sleep"  was  almost 
banished  from  my  eyelids.  On  rising  the  next  morning,  the  21st, 
I  observed  on  the  opposite  bank,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the 
entrance  of  a  large  and  apparently  deep  cavern,  from  which  I 
judged  some  of  the  preceding  night's  music  had  issued.  1  now 
determined  to  make  short  journeys,  for  two  or  three  days,  in 
diffe"ent  directions,  in  the  hope  of  falling  on  some  fresh  horse 
tracks;  and  in  the  event  of  being  unsuccessful,  to  return  each  night 
to  the  lake,  where  I  was  at  least  certain  of  procuring  cherries 


92 


ATTACK   ON   A   WOLF — NOCTDRNAT    sKVBNAIii;. 


mi 


0 


I.      ,  w 


ii '    .  I 


n 


and  water  sufficient  to  sustain  nature.    In  pu;  suanr^  of  this 
resolution  I  set  out  early,  in  a  southerly  direction,  from  the  head 
of  the  lake,  through  a  wild  barren  country,  without  any  water, 
or  vegetation,  save  loose  tufts  of  grass,  like  those  already 
described.     I  had  armed  myself  with  a  long  stick,  with  which, 
during  the  day,  I  killed  several  rattlesnakes.     Having  discovered 
no  fresh  tracks,  I  returned  late  in  the  evening  hungry  and  thirsty, 
and  took  possession  of  my  berth  of  the  preceding  night.     I 
collected  a  heap  of  stones  from  the  water-side ;  and  just  as  I 
was  lying  down  observed  a  wolf  emerge  from  the  opposite 
cavern,  Emd  thinking  it  safer  to  act  on  the  offensive,  lest  he  should 
imagine  I  was  afraid,  I  threw  some  stones  at  him,  one  of  which 
struck  him  on  the  leg :  he  retired  yelling  into  his  den ;  and  after 
waiting  some  time  in  fearful  suspense,  to  see  if  he  would  reappear, 
I  threw  myself  on  the  ground,  and  fell  asleep  •;  but,  like  the 
night  bsfore,  it  was  broken  by  the  same  unsocial  noise,  and  for 
upwards  of  two  hours  I  sat  up  waiting  in  anxious  expectation  the 
return  of  daylight.     The  vapours  from  the  lake,  joined  to  the 
heavy  dew,  had  penetrated  my  frail  covering  ot  gingham  ;  but 
as  the  sun  rose,  1  took  it  off,  and  stretched  it  on  :.*.  rock,  where  it 
quickly  dried.    My  excursion  to  the  southward  having  proved 
abortive,  I  now  resolved  to  try  the  east,  and  vjler  eating  my 
simple  breakfast,  proceeded  in  that  direction :  JiUd  on  crossing 
the  two  small  streams,  had  to  penetrate  a  country  full  of  "  dark 
woods  and  rankling  wilds,"  through  which,  owing  to  the  immense 
quantities  of  underwood,  my  progress  was  slow.     My  feet  too 
were  uncovered,  and,  from  the  thorns  of  the  various  prickly 
plants,  were  much  lacerated ;  in  consequence  of  which,  on 
returning  to  my  late  bivouack,  I  was  obliged  to  shorten  the  legs 
of  my  trousers  to  procure  bandages  for  them.     The  wolf  did 
not  make  his  appearonce  ;  but  during  the  night  I  got  occasional 
starts  from  severa^  >.:i  h>   brethren  of  the  forest. 

I  an  cipated  tae  ii  'g  of  the  sun  on  the  morning  of  the  23d, 
and  having  been  unsuccessful  the  two  preceding  days,  deter- 
mined to  shape  my  course  due  north,  and  if  possible  not  return 
again  to  the  lake.  During  the  day  I  skirted  the  wood,  and  fell 
on  some  old  tracks,  which  revived  my  hopes  a  little.  The  country 
to  the  westward  was  chiefly  plains,  covered  with  parched  grass, 
and  occasionally  enlivened  by  savannas  of  refreshing  green, 
full  of  wild  flowers  and  aromatic  herbs,  among  which  the  bee 
and  humming-bird  banqueted.  1  slept  this  evening  by  a  small 
brook,  where  I  collected  cherries  and  haws  enough  to  make  a 
hearty  supper.  I  was  obliged  to  make  farther  encroachments 
on  the  legs  of  my  trowsers  for  fresh  bandages  for  my  feet. 
During  the  night  I  was  serenaded  by  music  which  did  not 
resemble  "  a  concord  of  most  sweet  sounds ;"  in  which  the 


R'TDNIGUT   WATCUINQS. 


93 


e23d, 
deter- 
return 
id  fell 
)untry 
grass, 
en, 
bee 
small 
ake  a 
Iments 
feet 
Id  not 
h  the 


grumbling  bass  of  the  bears  was  at  times  drowned  by  the  less 
pleasing  sharps  of  the  wolves.  I  partially  covered  my  body  this 
night  with  some  pieces  of  pine  bark  which  I  stripped  off  a  sap- 
less tree. 

The  country  through  which  I  dragged  my  tired  limbs  on  the 
24th  was  thinly  wooded.  My  course  was  north  and  north-east. 
I  suffered  much  from  want  of  water,  having  got  during  the  day 
only  two  tepid  and  nauseous  draughts  from  stagnant  pools  which 
the  long  drought  had  nearly  dried  up.  About  sunset  I  arrived 
at  a  small  stream,  by  the  side  of  which  I  took  up  my  quarters 
for  the  night.  The  dew  fell  heavily ;  but  I  was  too  much 
fatigued  to  go  in  quest  of  bark  to  cover  me  ;  and  even  had  I 
been  so  inclined,  the  howling  of  the  wolves  would  have 
deterred  me  from  making  the  dangerous  attempt.  There  must 
have  been  an  extraordinary  nursery  of  these  animals  close  to 
the  spot ;  for  between  the  weak,  shrill  crie?  of  the  young,  and 
the  more  loud  and  dreadful  howling  of  the  old,  I  never  expected 
to  ?3ave  the  place  alive.  I  could  not  sleep.  My  only  weapons 
of  defence  were  a  heap  of  stones  and  a  stick.  Ever  and  anon 
some  more  daring  than  others  approached  me.  I  presented  the 
stick  at  them  as  if  in  the  act  of  levelling  a  gun,  upon  which  they 
retired,  vented  a  few  yells,  advanced  a  little  farther ;  and  after 
sui'veying  p  for  some  time  with  their  sharp,  fiery  eyes,  to 
which  the  partial  glimpses  of  the  moon  had  imparted  additional 
ferocity,  retreated  into  the  wood.  In  this  state  of  fearful 
agitation  I  passed  the  night ;  but  as  day-light  began  to  break, 
Nature  asserted  her  supremacy,  and  I  fell  into  a  deep  sleep, 
from  which,  to  judge  by  the  sun,  I  did  not  awake  until  between 
eight  and  nine  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  25th.  My  second 
bandages  having  been  worn  out,  I  was  now  obliged  to  bare  my 
knees  for  fresh  ones  ;  and  afier  tying  them  rouml  my  feet,  and 
taking  a  copious  draught  fron'  the  adjoining  brook  for  breakfast, 
I  recommenced  my  joyless  journey.  My  course  was  nearly 
north-north-east.  I  got  no  water  during  the  day  or  any  ot  che 
wild  cherries.  Some  slight  traces  of  men's  fee'  md  a  few  old 
horse  tracks  occasionally  crossed  my  path:  tin  y  proved  that 
human  beings  sometimes  at  least  viriitod  that  part  of  the  country, 
and  for  a  moment  served  to  cheer  ;.ny  drooping  spirits. 

About  dusk,  an  immense -sized  wolf  rushed  out  of  a  thick 
copse  a  short  distance  from  the  pathwav,  planted  himself 
directly  before  me,  in  a  threatening  posi  >on,  and  appeared 
determined  to  dispute  my  passage.  He  w^is  not  more  than 
twenty  feet  from  me.  My  situation  was  desperate,  and  as  I 
knew  that  the  least  symptom  of  fear  would  be  the  signal  for 
attack,  I  presented  my  stick,  and  shouted  as  loud  as  my  weak 
voice  would  permit.    He  appeared  somewhat  startled,  and 


*  ■ ' 

V 

%■ 

€ 

.# 

t 

■■'■ 

-■■^.■A 

f ' 

1 

1| 

1 

"VI 


;) 


04 


RETREAT   OF   THE   WOLF — APPALLING   SITUATION. 


<^ 


v 


f  i; 


retreated  a  few  steps,  still  keeping  his  piercing  eyes  firmly  fixed 
on  me.  1  advanced  a  little,  when  he  commenced  howling  in  « 
most  appalling  manner ;  and  supposing  his  intention  was  to 
collect  a  few  of  his  comrades  to  assist  in  making  an  afternoon 
repast  on  my  halt-famished  carcass,  I  redoubled  my  cries,  until 
1  had  almost  lost  the  power  of  utterance,  at  the  same  time 
calling  out  various  names,  thinking  1  might  make  it  appear 
I  was  not  alone.  An  old  and  a  young  lynx  ran  close  past  me, 
but  did  not  stop.  The  wolf  remained  about  fifteen  minutes  in 
the  same  position  ;  but  whether  my  wild  and  fearful  exclama- 
tions deterred  any  others  from  joining  him,  I  cannot  say. 
Finding  at  length  my  determination  not  to  flinch,  and  that  nc 
assistance  was  likely  to  come,  he  retreated  into  the  wood,  and 
disappeared  in  the  surrounding  glcom. 

The  shades  of  night  were  nov/  descending  fast,  when  I  came 
to  a  verdant  spot  surrounded  by  small  trees,  and  full  of  rushes, 
which  induced  me  to  hope  for  w^tcr  ;  but  after  searching  for 
some  time,  I  was  still  doomed  to  bitter  disappointment.  A 
shallow  lake  or  pond  had  been  there,  which  the  long  drought 
and  heat  had  dried  up.  I  then  pulled  a  quantity  of  the  rushes 
and  spread  them  at  the  foot  of  a  large  stone,  which  I  intended 
for  my  pillow ;  but  as  I  was  about  throwing  myself  down,  a 
rattlesnake  coiled,  with  the  head  erect,  and  the  forked  tongue 
extended  in  a  state  of  frightful  oscillation,  caught  rny  eye 
immediately  unde;'  the  stone.  I  instantly  retreated  a  short 
distance  ;  but  assunnng  fresh  courage,  soon  despatched  it  with 
my  stick.  On  examining  the  spot  more  minutely,  a  large 
cluster  of  thern  appeared  under  the  stone,  the  wiiole  of  which 
I  rooted  out  and  destroyed.  This  was  hardly  accomplished 
when  upwards  of  a  dozen  snakes  of  differeni  descriptions, 
chiefly  dark  brown,  blue,  and  green,  made  their  appearance : 
they  were  much  quicker  in  their  movements  than  their  raitla- 
tailod  brethren ;  and  1  could  only  kill  a  few  of  them. 

This  was  a  peculiarly  soul-trying  moment.  I  had  tasted  no 
fruit  since  the  morning  before,  and  after  a  painful  day's  march 
under  a  burning  sun,  could  not  procure  a  drop  of  water  to  allay 
my  feverish  thirst.  I  was  surrounded  by  a  murderous  brood  of 
serpents,  and  ferocious  beasts  of  prey,  and  without  even  the 
consolation  of  knowing  when  such  misery  might  have  a  probable 
termination.  I  might  truly  say  with  the  royal  psalmist  that  "  the 
anares  of  death  compassed  me  round  about." 

Hav^ing  collected  a  freeh  supply  of  rushes,  which  I  spread 
some  distance  from  the  spot  where  I  massacred  the  reptiles,  I 
threw  myself  on  them,  and  was  permitted,  through  Divine 
goodness,  to  enjoy  a  night  of  undisturbed  repose. 

I  arose  on  the  morning  of  the  26th  considerably  refreshed ; 


UNPLEASANT  INTlllISION — AWKVVATID  UENCOt'NTEK. 


95 


[spread 
kiles,  I 
iDivine 

3  shed ; 


and  took  a  northerly  course,  occasionally  diverging  a  little  to 
the  east.  Several  times  during  the  day  I  was  induced  to  leave 
the  path  by  the  appearance  of  rushes,  which  I  imagined  grew 
in  the  vicinity  of  lakes ;  but  on  reaching  them  my  faint  hopes 
vanished :  there  was  no  water,  and  I  in  vain  essayed  to  extract 
a  little  moisture  from  them.  Prickly  thorns  and  small  sharp 
stones  added  greatly  to  the  pain  of  my  tortured  feet,  and  obliged 
me  to  make  farther  encroachments  on  my  nether  garments  for 
fresh  bandages.  The  want  of  water  now  rendered  me 
extremely  wefik  and  feverish  ;  and  I  had  nearly  abandoned  all 
hopes  of  relief,  when,  about  half-past  four  or  five  o'clock,  the 
old  pathway  turned  from  the  prairie  grounds  into  a  thickly 
wooded  country,  in  an  easterly  direction ;  through  which  I  had 
not  advanced  half  a  mile  when  I  heard  a  noise  resembling  a 
waterfall,  to  which  I  hastened  my  tottering  steps,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  was  delighted  at  arriving  Oii  ilic  banks  of  a  deep  and 
narrow  rivulet,  which  forced  its  way  with  great  rapidity  over 
some  large  stones  that  obstructed  the  channel. 

After  offering  up  a  short  prayer  of  thanksgiving  for  this 
providential  supply,  1  threw  myself  into  the  water,  forgetful  of 
the  extreme  state  of  exhaustion  to  which  I  was  reduced  :  it  had 
nearly  proved  fatal,  for  my  weak  frame  could  not  withstand  the 
strength  of  the  current,  which  forced  me  down  a  short  distance, 
until  I  caught  the  bough  of  an  overhanging  tree,  by  means  of 
which  I  regained  the  shore.  Here  were  plenty  of  hips  and 
cherries ;  on  which,  with  the  water,  I  made  a  most  delicious 
repast.  On  looking  about  for  a  place  to  sleep,  I  observed  lying 
on  the  ground  the  hollow  trunk  of  a  large  pine,  which  had  been 
destroyed  by  lightning.  I  retreated  into  the  cavity ;  and  having 
covered  myself  completely  with  large  pieces  of  loose  bark, 
quickly  fell  asleep.  My  repose  was  not  of  long  duration  ;  for 
at  the  end  of  about  two  hours  I  was  awakened  by  the  growling 
of  a  bear,  which  had  removed  part  of  the  bark  covering,  and 
was  leaning  over  me  with  his  snout,  hesitating  as  to  the  means 
he  should  adopt  to  dislodge  me  ;  the  narrow  limits  of  the  trunk 
which  confined  my  body  preventing  him  from  making  the  attack 
with  advantage.  I  instantly  sprung  up,  seized  my  stick,  and 
uttered  a  loud  cry,  which  startled  him,  and  caused  him  to  recede 
a  few  steps ;  when  he  stopped,  and  turned  about,  apparently 
doubtful  whether  he  would  commence  an  attack.  He  deter- 
mined on  an  assault ;  but  feeling  I  had  not  sufl^cient  strength 
to  meet  such  an  unequal  enemy,  I  thought  it  prudent  to  retreat, 
and  accordingly  scrambled  up  an  adjoining  tree.  My  flight 
gave  fresh  impulse  to  his  courage,  and  he  commenced  ascending 
after  me.  I  succeeded  however  in  gaining  a  branch,  which 
gave  me  a  decided  advantage  over  him  ;  and  from  which  I  was 


I',  >*' 


m 


I 


:,ii 


96 


AGREEABLE   DISCO\^RY — HOPE   RENEWED. 


if 


t         .   ;(■ 


enabled  to  annoy  his  muzzle  and  claws  in  such  a  manner  with 
my  stick  as  effectually  to  check  his  progress.  After  scraping  the 
bark  some  time  with  rage  and  disappointment,  he  gave  up  the 
task,  and  retired  to  ;ny  late  dormitory,  of  which  he  took 
possession.  The  fear  of  falling  off,  in  case  I  was  overcome  by 
sleep,  induced  me  to  make  several  attempts  to  descend ;  but 
each  attempt  aroused  my  ursine  sentinel;  and  after  many 
ineffectual  efforts,  I  was  obliged  to  remain  there  during  the  rest 
of  the  night.  1  fixed  myself  in  that  part  of  the  trunk  from  which 
the  principal  grand  branches  forked,  and  which  prevented  me 
from  falling  during  my  fitful  slumbers. 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th,  a  little  after  sunrise,  the  bear 
quitted  ihe  trunk,  shook  himself,  "  cast  a  longing,  lingering  look" 
towards  mo,  and  slowly  disappeared  in  search  of  his  morning 
repast.  After  waiting  some  time,  apprehensive  of  his  return,  I 
descended  and  resumed  my  journey  through  the  woods,  in  a 
north-north-east  direction.  In  a  few  hours  all  my  anxiety  of  the 
preceding  night  was  more  than  compenbated  by  falling  in  with 
a  well-beaten  horse  path,  with  fresh  traces  on  it,  both  of  hoofs 
and  human  feet ;  it  lay  through  a  clear  open  wood,  in  a  north- 
east course,  in  which  I  observed  numbers  of  small  deer.  About 
six  in  the  evening  I  arrived  at  a  spot  where  a  party  must  have 
slept  the  preceding  night.  Round  the  remains  of  a  large  fire 
which  was  still  burning,  were  Sv  attered  several  half-picked  bones 
of  grouse,  partridges,  and  ducks,  all  of  which  I  collected  with 
economical  industry.  After  devouring  the  flesh  1  broiled  the 
bones.  The  whole  scarcely  sufficed  to  give  me  a  moderate  meal, 
but  yet  afforded  a  most  seasonable  relief  to  my  famished  body. 
I  enjoyed  a  comfortable  sleep  this  night,  close  to  the  fire,  uninter- 
rupted by  any  nocturnal  visiter.  On  the  morning  of  the  28th  I 
set  off  with  cheerful  spirits,  fully  impressed  with  the  hope  of  a 
flpeedy  termination  to  my  sufferings.  My  course  was  northerly, 
and  lay  through  a  thick  wood.  Lfite  in  the  evening  I  arrived  at 
a  stagnant  pool,  from  which  I  merely  moistened  my  lips ;  and 
having  covered  myself  with  some  birch  bark,  slept  by  its  side. 
The  bears  and  wolves  occasionally  serenaded  me  during  the 
night,  but  I  did  not  see  any  of  them.  I  rose  early  on  the  morning 
of  the  29th,  and  followed  the  fresh  traces  all  day,  through  the 
wood,  nearly  north-east  by  north.  I  observed  several  deer, 
some  of  which  came  quite  close  to  me  ;  and  in  the  evening  I 
threw  a  stone  at  a  small  animal  resembling  a  hare,  the  leg  of 
which  I  broke.  It  ran  away  limping,  but  my  feet  were  too  sore 
to  permit  me  to  follow  it.  I  passed  the  night  by  the  side  of  a 
small  stream,  where  I  got  a  sufficient  supply  of  hips  and  cherries. 
A  few  distant  growls  awoke  me  at  intervals,  but  no  animal 
appeared.  On  the  30th  the  path  took  a  more  easterly  turn,  and  the 


'  l!  '■■ 


h 


INDIAN    UECEPTION — PLUASUIIES    OF    SOCIETY. 


97 


woods  became  tliickor  and  more  gloomy.  I  had  now  nearly  con- 
sumed tho  remnant  ot"  my  trousers  in  bandages  for  my  wretched 
feet ;  and,  with  the  exception  of  my  siiirt,  was  almost  naked. 
The  horse-tracks  every  moment  appeared  more  fresh,  and  fed 
my  hopes.  Late  in  the  evening  I  arrived  at  a  spot  where  the 
path  branched  oft'  in  different  c' "octions  ;  one  led  up  rather  a 
steep  hill,  the  other  descended  into  a  valley,  and  the  tracks  on 
both  were  equally  recent.  I  took  the  higher ;  but  after  pro- 
ceeding a  few  hunc'red  pares  through  a  deep  wood,  which 
ippi:;ared  more  dark  from  tho  thick  foliage  which  shut  out  the 
rays  of  the  sun,  I  returned,  apprehensive  of  not  procuring  water 
for  my  supper,  and  descended  the  lower  path.  I  had  not 
advanced  far  when  I  imagined  I  hoard  the  neighing  of  a  horse. 
I  listened  with  breathless  attention,  and  became  convinced  it  was 
no  illusion.  A  few  paces  farther  brought  me  in  sight  of  several 
of  those  noble  animals  sporting  in  a  lumdsome  meadow,  from 
which  I  was  separated  by  a  rapid  stream.  With  some  dilHculty 
I  crossed  over,  and  ascended  the  opposite  bank.  One  of  the 
horses  approached  me  :  I  thought  him  the  "  prince  of  palfreys  ; 
his  neigh  was  like  the  bidding  of  a  monarch,  and  his  counte- 
nance enforced  homage." 

On  advancing  a  short  distance  into  the  meadow,  the  cheering 
sight  of  a  small  column  of  gracefully  curling  smoke,  announced 
my  vicinity  to  human  beings,  and  in  a  moment  after  two  Indian 
women  perceived  me :  they  instantly  fled  to  a  hut  which 
appeared  at  the  farther  end  of  the  meadow.  This  movement 
made  me  doubt  whether  I  had  arrived  among  friends  or  ene- 
mies ;  but  my  apprehensions  were  quickly  dissipated  by  the 
approach  of  two  men,  who  came  running  to  me  in  the  most 
friendly  manner.  On  seeing  the  lacerated  state  of  my  feet,  they 
carried  me  in  their  arms  to  a  comfortable  dwelling  covered  with 
deer-skins.  To  wash  and  dress  my  torn  limbs,  roast  some  roots, 
and  boil  a  small  salmon,  seemed  but  the  business  of  a  moment. 
After  returning  thanks  to  that  great  and  good  Being  in  whose 
hands  are  the  issues  of  life  and  death,  and  who  had  watched 
over  my  wandering  steps,  and  rescued  me  from  the  many 
perilous  dangers  I  encountered,  I  sat  down  to  my  salmon,  of 
which  it  is  needless  to  say  I  made  a  hearty  supper. 

The  family  consisted  of  an  elderly  man,  and  his  son,  with  their 
wives  and  children.  I  collected  from  their  signs  that  they  were 
aware  of  my  being  lost,  and  that  they,  Vvith  other  Indians  and 
white  men,  had  been  out  several  days  scouring  the  woods  and 
plains  in  search  of  me.  I  also  understood  from  them  that  our 
party  had  arrived  at  their  destination,  which  was  only  a  few 
hours'  march  from  their  habitation.  They  behaved  to  nie  with 
atFectionate  solicitude  ;  and  while  the  old  woman  was  carefully 

M 


* 


I-  1^1 


a 


JOYFUL   MEETING. 


I 


;  I ,  .'.> 


drcssinfT  my  font,  tho  inon  worn  ondoavourinp;  to  mnko  mc  com- 
preliciid  tlM'ir  mcmiiriff.  1  had  been  fourteen  dnys  in  a  wilder- 
ness witliont  holding  "  cominnnion  kind"  with  any  human  being; 
and  1  need  not  say  I  Hstened  with  a  thousand  times  more  real 
dehght  to  the  harsh  and  guttural  voiees  of  those  poor  Indians, 
than  was  ever  experienced  by  the  most  enthusiastic  admirer  of 
melody  from  the  thrilling  tones  of  a  (.'atalani,  or  the  nidtiug 
sweetness  of  a  Stephens.  As  it  was  too  late,  after  finishing  my 
supper,  to  proceed  farther  that  night,  I  retired  to  rest  on  aeom- 
foriablo  couch  of  bull'alo  and  deer-skins.  1  slept  soundly :  and 
the  morning  of  the  31st  was  far  advanced  before  I  awoke. 
After  breakfasting  on  the  remainder  of  the  salmon,  I  prepared 
to  join  my  white  friends.  A  considerable  stream,  about  ninety 
yards  broad,  called  Caiir  (rAlenc  River,  flowed  close  to  the  hut. 
The  old  man  and  his  son  accompanied  mc.  We  crossed  the 
river  in  a  canoe  ;  after  which  they  brought  over  three  horses, 
and  having  enveloped  my  body  in  an  Indian  mantle  of  deer-skin, 
•we  mounted,  and  set  oil'  at  a  smart  trot  in  an  easterly  direction. 
We  had  not  proceeded  more  tlu'ii  seven  miles  when  I  felt  the  bad 
effects  of  having  eaten  so  much  salmon  after  so  long  a  fast.  I  had 
a  severe  attack  of  indigestion,  and  for  two  hours  suflered  extreme 
agony;  and,  but  for  the  great  attention  of  the  kind  Indians,  I 
think  it  would  have  proved  fatal.  About  an  hour  after  recom- 
mencing our  journey  we  arrived  in  a  clear  wood,  in  which,  with 
joy  unutterable,  I  observed  our  Canadians  at  work  hewing 
timber.  I  rode  between  the  two  natives.  One  of  our  men 
named  Francois  Gardcpic,  who  had  been  on  a  trading  excursion, 
joined  us  on  liorseback.  My  deer-skin  robe  and  sunburnt  fea- 
tures completely  set  his  powers  of  recognition  at  defiance,  and 
he  addressed  me  as  an  Indian.  I  replied  in  French,  by  asking 
him  how  all  our  people  were.  Poor  Fran(;ois  appeared 
electrified,  exclaimed  "  Sainte  Vkrgc !"  and  galloped  into  the 
wood,  vociferating  "  O  mes  amis  !  vies  amis !  il  est  trouve  ! — 
Oui,  oui,  il  est  trouve  !" — "  Qui  ?  qui  ?"  asked  his  comrades. 
"  Monsieur  Cox !  Monsieur  Cox  /"  replied  Franqois.  "  Lc 
voild  !  lc  voild !"  pointing  towards  me.  Away  went  saws, 
hatchets,  and  axes,  and  each  man  rushed  forward  to  the  tents, 
where  we  had  by  this  time  arrived.  It  is  needless  to  say  that 
our  astonishment  r;nd  delight  at  my  miraculous  escape  were 
mutual.  The  friendly  Indians  were  liberally  rewarded ;  the  men 
were  allowed  a  holyday,  and  every  countenance  bore  the  smile 
of  joy  and  happiness. 


li 


EXPliANATION. 


99 


ClIAl'TER  IX. 


uve  ! — 
irades. 
"  Le 
saws, 
[e  tents, 
;ay  that 
were 
the  men 
le  smile 


Heniarknhle  cnwe  of  Mr.  Pritcliard,  who  war  tliirty>tivo  iliiyv  lost.  Situation 
of  Spokmi  lli)iihti — .loiiriity  to  tlui  I'Mat-liuad  IumcIn,  iiiicI  (l(^•<l■ri[)ti(lll  cil'  that, 
triliu — liilurn  to  Siiokiiii  Ilousi) — CluistiiiuH  day — llor.sf-mlinjj— ypukiiii 
peculiarities — Articles  of  t»'ado — A  duel. 

ApTF.n  |>aitiikinii  of  some  rcfresliment  we  iiattirally  rcvertofl 
to  the  eause  of"  my  iirant/iciis.  It  was  easily  cxplaiiicd.  iM'IiOn- 
nan  anti  I,  as  iih'eady  montioned,  cotild  only  trvi  <iiie  horse 
between  iis.  On  tiie  moniin<i  of  the  17th  1  hixi  ridd'Mi  lioin 
teno'cloek  tinfil  twelve,  at  whieh  hfxir  we  breaid'asled.  It  wa.s 
then  M'Lennaii's  fiirii  to  mount.  The  party  were  divided  info 
three  divisions,  and  kept  tip  rather  a  stra<ii;lin<i  inareh  while  in 
the  plains.  Every  one  hiid  his  own  btisiness  to  mind.  Those 
who  set  otT  first  thoti<rht  I  was  with  the  second  or  third  division  ; 
while  they  imagined  1  was  with  the  first.  In  this  manner  they 
continued  on  for  upwards  of  twf)  hours,  until  it  became  my  ttirn 
to  ride,  when  M'Lennan,  after  galloping  up  ;md  down  the  line 
of  march  missed  me.  On  communicating  the  intelligence  to 
Mr.  Clarke,  he  at  once  ordered  the  whole  to  stop,  and  sent  the 
Indian,  with  several  men,  back  in  search  of  me.  In  the  mean 
time  I  had  recovered  from  my  summer-house  dream,  and  had 
crossed  the  track  by  which  tliey  returned,  and  by  tluit  means 
missed  them.  On  comparing  the  ])laces  where  we  slept 
the  first  night,  we  could  not  have  heen  more  than  three  miles 
asunder  -,  and  although  they  fired  shots  repeatedly,  I  was  not 
fortunate  enough  to  hear  any  of  them.  The  direction  I  took 
the  second  morning  separated  us  fiirther ;  for  tl>ey  went  north, 
and  I  nearly  due  east ;  and  the  two  horsemen  I  saw  on  that 
evening  were  part  of  those  who  were  scouring  the  cotmtry  in 
quest  of  me.  The  arrangements  made  for  my  recovery  were 
hastily  adopted,  badly  carried  into  execution,  and  too  soon  aban- 
doned ;  for  after  the  third  night,  they  imagined  I  had  fallen  a 
prey  to  the  wolves,  and  continued  on  their  course.  On  arriving 
at  Spokan  several  other  parties  were  sent  out,  l)ut  with  what 
success  it  is  needless  to  tell.  From  my  youth,  and  consequent 
inexperience  in  the  Indian  country,  the  oldest  rnyagturs  had  given 
me  up  after  the  sixth  day.  A  better  knowledge  of  the  produc- 
tions of  the  soil  would  have  enabled  me  to  obtain  other  wild-fruit 
and  roots,  which,  by  contributing  to  my  sustenance,  would  have 
greatly  alleviated  my  sufferings  ;  but  my  ignorance  of  such  as 
were  wholesome  and  nutritious  prevented  me  from  tasting  any 
thing  with  which  I  had  not  been  oreviously  acquainted.    On  the 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


140    12.0 


lU 


IL25  il.4 


I 

1.6 


^ 


71 


^;. 


'/ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  S72-4S03 


%. 


S: 


^^ 


<> 


rv 


^ 


'4^.^ 


'4^ 


i^o 


^ 


\ 


% 


<> 


100 


SIMILAR   AnVBNTUnE — TRADING   POSTS. 


Si:. 


day  before  my  arrival,  my  clothes,  &c.,  had  been  sold  by  auc- 
tion ;  all  of  wh'cli  were,  however,  returned  by  the  purchasers. 
After  a  few  days'  rest,  and  proper  attention,  I  became  nearly 
renovated  in  health,  and  before  the  end  of  a  fortnight  every 
trace  of  my  painful  privations  had  disappeared. 

To  such  as  may  feel  disposed  to  doubt  the  accuracy  of  the 
foregoing  statement,  I  beg  leave  to  say,  that  Mr.  Clarke,  who 
then  commanded  the  party,  and  who  is  now  a  member  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  other  gentlemen  who  were 
with  him,  are  still  alive ;  and  although  they  cannot  vouch  for 
the  truth  of  each  day's  detail,  they  can  for  my  absence  and  the 
extent  of  my  suflerings,  as  evinced  by  my  emaciated  appearance 
on  rejoining  them.  I  can  with  truth  assert  that  I  have  rather 
softened  down  than  overcharged  the  statement,  and  therefore 
trust  my  candid  readers  will  acfjuit  me  of  any  intention  to  prac- 
tise on  their  credulity.  Mine,  however,  was  not  a  solitary  case ; 
and  the  skeptical  no  doubt  will  be  more  surprised  to  learn,  that 
a  few  years  prior  to  this  occurrence  a  gentleman  named  Prit- 
chard,  who  belonged  to  the  North-west  Company,  while  sta- 
tioned in  the  neighbourhood  of  English  River,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  mountains,  lost  himself,  and  was  thirty  Jive  days  wandering 
through  the  woods  before  he  was  found  !  In  some  respects  he 
was  better  off  than  I ;  for  he  was  well  clothed,  and  from  his 
experience  of  the  country  had  recourse  to  expedients  to  procure 
food  of  which  I  never  should  have  thought.  He  supported  him- 
self for  some  time  by  setting  traps  for  hares,  a  few  of  which  be 
took  in  the  Indian  manner.  He  likewise  made  snares  out  of 
the  hair  of  his  head,  with  which  he  caught  some  small  fish ;  and 
he  also  occasionally  succeeded  in  killing  a  bird.  These  ht^  wag 
obliged  to  eat  raw ;  and  when  all  other  resources  failed,  he  was 
reduced  to  the  necessity  of  eating  grass,  and  a  kind  of  moss, 
called  by  the  Canadians  ti'ipe  de  rocher.  He  was  found  by 
Indians  close  to  a  small  stream,  endeavouring  to  crawl  on  his 
hands  and  feet,  in  a  state  of  utter  helplessness  and  exhaustion ; 
and  for  some  days  previous  to  his  being  discovered  he  had  eaten 
nothing  whatever.  On  being  brought  to  the  fort  he  quickly 
recovered  his  ordinary  health,  the  possession  of  which,  I  ara 
happy  to  say,  he  enjoys  to  the  present  moment. 

The  spot  selected  for  forming  our  establishment  was  a  hand- 
some point  of  land,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Pointed  Heart 
and  Spokan  rivers,  thinly  covered  with  pine  and  other  trees, 
and  close  to  a  trading  post  of  the  North-west  Company,  under 
the  command  of  Mr.  M'Millan,  one  of  their  clerks,  who  had  ten 
men  with  him.  He  had  two  other  posts  detached  from  this : 
one  about  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  from  it  in  a  north-east- 
erly direction,  among  a  tribe  called  the  Flat-heads,  whose  lands 


I, 


I>ErAUTUIlE MODE   OF    XnAVELLlNG. 


101 


lie  at  the  feet  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  are  well  stocked 
with  buffaloes  ;  the  other  about  two  hundred  miles  nearly  due 
north,  among  a  tribe  called  the  Cootonais,  in  whose  country 
there  are  plenty  of  beavers,  deer,  mountain  sheep,  and,  at  times, 
buil'aloes.  Mr.  Finan  M'Donald,  of  the  North-west  Company, 
had  charge  of  the  post  among  the  Flat-heads ;  and  a  Mr.  Mon- 
tour was  stationed  among  the  Cootonais.  Mr.  Pillet  was  des- 
patched with  six  men  to  op|)ose  the  latter  ;  and  Farnham  and  1 
were  destined  for  the  Flat-heads.  Owing  to  the  length  of  time 
our  men  were  detained  at  Spokan  to  assist  in  cutting  down 
timber  for  the  fort,  we  did  not  set  out  until  the  I7th  of  October. 
We  had  twelve  men  and  fourteen  loaded  horses.  On  leaving 
Spokan,  our  course  for  four  days  was  north-east,  and  lay  through 
a  handsome  open  country,  well  watered,  and  bounded  by  hills 
rather  thickly  wooded.  On  the  evening  of  the  20th  we  en- 
camped on  the  banks  of  a  fine  river,  which  rises  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  flows  through  the  lands  of  the  Flat-heads,  Pointed 
Heart,  Spokan,  and  Chaudiere  Indians,  and  falls  into  the  Colum- 
bia about  nine  hundred  miles  from  the  sea.  Its  general  course 
is  westerly,  and  it  is  commonly  called  the  Flat-head  River.  The 
part  at  which  we  had  arrived  was  about  four  hundred  yards 
wide,  with  an  easy  current.  As  this  was  the  spot  for  crossing 
to  proceed  to  the  Flat-head  country,  we  had  io  construct  rafts 
for  that  purpose ;  which  being  prepared  on  the  21st,  we  crossed 
over,  and  passed  all  our  goods  and  horses  in  safety,  with  the 
exception  of  one  of  the  latter,  which  was  drowned  by  the  awk- 
wardness of  the  man  who  held  the  reins.  The  day  after,  the 
weather  set  in  very  cold,  accompanied  by  snow,  which  continued 
almost  incessantly  for  fourteen  days.  During  this  period  our 
route  lay  nearly  due  east,  through  thick  woods  of  lofty  pine  and 
cedar.  The  horses  suffered  dreadfully  from  the  want  of  grass, 
the  deep  snow  having  completely  covered  the  ground,  and  their 
only  nourishment  was  obtained  by  plucking  and  chewing  the 
branches  of  the  adjoining  trees.  A  detail  of  each  day's  pro- 
ceedings would  be  a  cold  and  unnecessary  repetition.  We 
rose  each  morning  at  daybreak,  loaded  the  horses,  travelled  two 
or  three  hours,  when  we  stopped  for  breakfast ;  waited  an  hour 
for  this  meal,  and  then  continued  on  until  four  or  five  o'clock  in 
the  evening,  when  we  stopped  for  the  night.  The  path  was 
narrow,  and  the  trees  covered  with  snow,  which,  from  the  loaded 
horses  constantly  coming  in  collision  with  the  branches  on  either 
side,  fell  down  at  every  moment  in  immense  masses,  annoyed 
us  considerably,  and  greatly  impeded  our  progress.  Where  the 
pine  pvedominated,the  undergrowth  was  so  thick  that  we  could 
not  obtain  sufficient  space  for  our  tent ;  but  where  the  cedar 
prevailed,  we  occasionally  were  enabled  to  pitch  it.    This  cheer- 


;*, 


102 


INDIAN   nWELIilNOS LOO-HOUSfi. 


)      ! 


■h 


less  and  gloomy  march  continued  for  fourteen  days,  during  which 
period  w  seldom  had  a  dry  article  of  clothing  on  us. 

On  the  4th  of  November  we  cleared  the  woods,  and  arrived 
in  a  large  meadow  of  prime  grass,  in  which  we  immediately 
pitched  our  tent,  and  remained  for  three  days  to  refresh  the 
horses.  Our  principal  subsistence  while  in  the  woods  was  horse- 
flesh and  boiled  rice ;  but  here  our  hunters  supplied  us  with 
some  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep  called  big-horns,  the  flesh 
of  which  is  delicious,  and  resembles  in  taste  Welsh  mutton,  but 
at  this  season  is  more  delicate.  From  the  time  we  quitted 
Spokan  we  had  not  seen  a  native.  On  the  7th  we  recommenced 
our  journey  eastward  :  the  weather  became  more  moderate,  and 
the  recent  snows  quickly  vanished  from  the  surrounding  trees. 
For  three  days  and  a  half  our  progress  was  through  undulating 
meadows,  thinly  wooded,  in  which  our  hunters  killed  some  deer. 
On  the  10th  we  came  to  a  small  village  of  the  Flat-head  nation, 
chiefly  consisting  of  old  men,  women,  and  children.  We  were 
quite  charmed  with  their  frank  and  hospitable  reception,  and 
their  superiority  in  cleanliness  over  any  of  the  tribes  we  had 
hitherto  seen.  Their  lodges  were  conical,  but  very  spacious, 
and  were  formed  by  a  number  of  buffalo  and  moose  skins 
thrown  over  long  poles  in  such  a  manner  as  to  keep  them  quite 
dry.  The  fire  was  placed  in  the  centre,  and  the  ground  all 
around  it  was  covered  with  mats  and  clean  skins  free  from  the 
vermin  we  felt  so  annoying  at  the  lower  parts  of  the  Columbia. 
They  had  a  quantity  of  dried  buft'alo,  of  which  we  purchased  a 
good  deal ;  and  as  they  gave  us  to  understand  that  the  great 
body  of  their  tribe  were  in  the  mountains  hunting,  we  deter- 
mined to  stop  here ;  and  accordingly  set  about  constructing  a 
log-house.  The  cold  now  became  more  severe,  and  the  snow 
began  again  to  fall  heavily,  which  induced  the  men  to  work 
hard ;  and  before  three  weeks  we  had  erected  the  frame  of  a 
good  substantial  building,  which  in  another  week  was  roofed  in, 
and  afforded  a  welcome  shelter  to  the  poor  fellows,  whose  only 
covering  was  their  blankets. 

While  the  house  was  being  built  many  of  the  tribe  arrived, 
from  whom  we  purchased  a  number  of  beaver-skins.  Their 
hunt  had  been  rather  unsuccessful,  and  attended  with  disastrous 
results ;  for  they  informed  us,  that  after  killing  buffalo  sufficient 
for  the  winter,  they  were  surprised  by  their  old  enemies  the 
Black-feet  Indians  (whose  lands  lie  on  the'east  side  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains),  who  killed  several  of  their  warriors,  and  took  many 
prisoners.  They  appeared  much  dejected  at  their  misfortunes ; 
and  one  of  the  chiefs  seemed  deeply  to  lament  the  loss  of  his 
wife,  who  had  been  captured  with  some  other  women  by  the 
enemy.    Part  of  the  tribe  pitched  their  tents  some  distance 


1  'I 


FLAT-READ   BIVER — RETROSPECTIONS. 


103 


had 


above  us  at  the  north-west  estahlisfimcnt.  They  were  passion- 
ately fond  of  tobacco,  and  while  they  remained  with  us  never 
ceased  smoking.  Having  bought  all  th^^ir  skins,  and  given  thcut 
credit  for  some  articles  until  the  spring,  the  greater  part  of  them 
set  off  to  make  their  winter's  hunt,  whicli  their  recent  misfortunes 
had  protracted  to  a  very  late  period.  When  the  house  was 
finished  I  got  a  good  canoe  built  of  cedar  planks,  in  which  I 
embarked  with  six  men,  and  taking  leave  of  Farnham,  on  the 
18th  of  December,  descended  the  Flat-head  river  on  my  return 
to  Spokan.  Our  progress  was  slow  and  full  of  danger,  from  the 
great  number  of  rapitls,  and  the  force  of  the  current.  The  land 
on  each  side  was  high,  and  the  banks  in  some  places  so  precipi- 
tous, that  for  three  nights  we  could  not  find  room  enough  to 
make  our  beds  on  shore,  and  were  constrained  to  sleep  in  a 
standing  position,  rolled  up  in  our  cloaks  and  blankets  ;  leaving 
the  canoe  in  the  water,  fastened  to  poles  driven  some  distance 
into  the  ground.  On  the  25th  wc  arrived  at  a  place  where  the 
river  forked  into  four  or  five  small  channels,  which  afterward 
united  and  formed  a  lake  about  five  miles  long  and  two  broad. 
We  took  the  centre  channel ;  but  it  was  full  of  snags,  which 
broke  several  of  the  ribs  of  our  canoe,  and  we  were  forced  to 
land  on  a  marshy  island,  full  of  small  willows,  and  without  a  bit 
of  dry  wood  to  make  a  fire.  This  was  a  horrible  situation ;  and 
the  state  of  our  canoe  prevented  us  from  proceeding  to  the  main- 
land ;  so  that  we  had  no  alternative  but,  seatetl  on  fallen  trees 
and  covered  with  our  blankets,  to  pass  the  night  in  water  up  to 
our  ankles.  About  midnight  it  commenced  snowing,  which 
continued  until  morning.  1  thought  of  my  preceding  Christmas 
off  Cape  Horn,  and  was  puzzled  to  decide  which  was  the  most 
enviable, — a  tempestuous  storm  in  the  high  southern  latitudes, 
after  Iok  ng  a  couple  of  men — or  a  half-inundated  island,  without 
fire,  at  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  covered  with  sheets  of 
snow.  In  my  slumbers  I  imagined  I  was  sitting  at  my  father's 
table  surrounded  by  the  smiling  domestic  group,  all  anxious  to 
partake  of  a  smoking  sirloin  and  a  richly  dotted  plum-pudding, 
while  the  juvenile  members  I'ecounted  to  each  other  with  tri- 
umphant joy  the  amount  of  their  Christmas-boxes ;  but,  alas  ! 


Sorrow  return'd  with  the  dawning  of  morn,  

And  tho  voice  in  my  dreaming  ear  molted  away. 

The  5i6th  opened  on  us  with  snow-clad  mountains  and  forests. 
With  much  difficulty  we  succeeded  in  patching  our  battered 
canoe  sufficiently  tight  to  bring  us  to  terra  firma,  where  we 
struck  up  a  fire  of  pine,  spruce,  and  cedar,  that  would  have 
roasted  a  solid  square  of  oxen.     We  remained  here  all  the  day, 


^ 


104 


IIOBSE-FIiESII — INTOXICATION. 


t 


::l 


and  repaired  t'nc  canoe  so  as  to  enable  us  to  proceed  on  the 
27th.  The  day  after,  we  reached  the  place  at  which  we  crossed 
on  our  way  upwards  :  here  we  left  the  canoe,  set  off  by  land 
on  foot,  and  reached  Spokan  in  time  to  partake  of  the  new 
year's  festivities.  During  my  absence  Mr.  Clarke  had  con- 
structed a  snug  and  commodious  dwelling  house,  containing 
four  rooms  and  a  kitchen ;  together  with  a  comfortable  house  for 
the  men,  and  a  capacious  store  for  the  furs  and  trading  goods ; 
the  whole  surrounded  by  paling,  and  flanked  by  two  bastions 
with  loopholes  for  musketry.  I  passed  the  remainder  of  the 
winter  at  this  place  ;  and  between  hunting,  fishing,  reading,  &c. 
we  contrived  to  spend  the  time  agreeably  enough.  We  lived 
principally  on  deer,  trout,  and  carp,  and  occasionally  killed  a 
fat  horse,  as  a  substitute  for  beef.  Custom  had  now  so  far 
reconciled  us  to  the  flesh  of  this  animal,  that  we  often  preferred 
it  to  what  in  Europe  might  be  regarded  as  luxuries.  Foals  or 
colts  are  not  good,  although  a  few  of  our  men  preferred  them. 
A  horse  for  the  table  should  not  be  under  three  years,  nor  above 
seven.  The  flesh  of  those  which  are  tame,  well-fed,  and 
occasionally  worked,  is  tender  and  firm,  and  the  fat  hard  and 
w  hite :  it  is  far  superior  to  the  wild  horse,  the  flesh  of  which  is 
loose  and  stringy,  and  the  fat  yellow  and  rather  oily.  We 
generally  killed  the  former  for  our  own  table  ;  and  I  can  assure 
my  readers,  that  if  they  sat  down  to  a  fat  rib,  or  a  rump-steak 
off  a  well-fed  four-year-old,  without  knowing  the  animal,  they 
would  imagine  themselves  regaling  on  a  piece  of  prime  ox  beef. 
In  Fel  ruary  we  took  immense  quantities  of  carp  in  Spokan 
river  above  its  junction  with  the  Pointed-heart,  and  in  a  few 
weeks  after  the  trout  came  in  great  abundance. 

The  Spokans  we  found  to  be  a  quiet,  honest,  inoffensive  tribe  ; 
and  although  we  had  fortified  our  establishment  in  the  manner 
above  mentioned,  we  seldom  closed  the  gates  at  night.  Their 
country  did  not  abound  in  furs,  and  they  were  rather  indolent 
in  hunting.  Their  chief,  Illimspokancc,  or  the  Son  of  the  Sun, 
was  a  harmless  old  man,  who  spent  a  great  portion  of  his  time 
between  us  and  Mr.  M'Millan.  We  entered  into  a  compact  with 
that  gentleman  to  abstain  from  giving  the  Indians  any  spirituous 
liquors,  to  which  both  parties  strictly  adhered.  Mr.  Clarke, 
who  was  an  old  trader  himself,  had  often  witnessed  the  baneful 
effects  of  giving  ardent  spirits  to  Indians,  while  he  was  in  the 
service  of  the  North-west  Company,  at  all  whose  establishments 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  it  was  an  almost 
invariable  custom.  When  in  a  state  of  intoxication  it  is  quite 
impossible  to  check  their  savage  propensities,  and  murder 
frequently  is  the  consequence  ;  a  remarkable  instance  of  which 
I  subsequently  witnessed  in  my  journey  across  the  continent. 


■■•* 


SPOKAN  DIDIAMS— CBMBTEHIE8. 


105 


By  this  arrangement  both  parties  saved  themselves  much  trouble 
and  expense,  and  kept  ttie  poor  natives  in  a  state  of  blissful 
^orance.  In  other  respects  also  we  agreed  very  well  with 
our  opponent,  and  neither  party  evinced  any  of  the  turbulent 
or  lawless  spirit  which  gave  so  ferocious  an  aspect  to  the 
opposition  ot  the  rival  companies  on  the  east  side  of  the 
mountains.  The  great  object  of  every  Indian  was  to  obtain  a 
gun.  Now  a  good  gun  could  not  be  had  under  twenty  beaver- 
skins  ;  a  few  short  ones  we  gave  for  fifteen :  and  some  idea  of 
the  profit  may  be  formed,  when  I  state  that  the  wholesale  price 
of  tne  gun  is  about  one  pound  seven  shillings,  while  the  average 
value  of  twenty  beaver-skins  is  about  twenty-five  pounds  I  Two 
yards  of  cloth,  which  originally  cost  twelve  snillings,  would 
generally  bring  six  or  eight  beavers,  value  eight  or  ten  pounds  I 
and  so  on  in  proportion  for  other  articles; — but  they  were 
satisfied,  and  we  had  no  cause  to  complain.  The  Spokans  are 
far  superior  to  the  Indians  of  the  coast  in  cleanliness ;  but  by 
no  means  equal  in  this  respect  to  the  Flat-heads.  The  women 
are  good  wives,  and  most  affectionate  mothers :  the  old,  cheerful, 
and  complete  slaves  to  their  families;  the  young,  lively  and 
confiding ;  and  whether  married  or  single,  free  from  the  vice 
of  incontinence.  Their  village  was  situated  at  the  point 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers.  Some  houses  were 
oblong,  others  conical ;  and  were  covered  with  mats  or  skins 
according  to  the  wealth  of  the  proprietor.  Their  chief  riches 
are  their  horses,  which  they  generally  obtain  in  barter  from  the 
Nez  Perces,  in  return  for  the  goods  they  obtain  from  us  for  their 
furs:  each  man  is  therefore  the  founder  of  his  own  fortune,  and 
their  riches  or  poverty  are  generally  proportioned  to  their 
activity  or  indolence.  The  vice  of  gambling,  however,  is 
prevalent  among  them,  and  some  are  such  slaves  to  it  that  they 
irequently  lose  ^1  their  horses.    The  spot  where 

The  rude  forefathers  of  the  hamlet  aleep  ' 

if  about  midway  between  the  village  and  the  fort,  and  has  rather 
a  picturesque  effect  at  a  distance.  When  a  man  dies,  several 
horses  are  killed,  and  the  skins  are  attached  to  the  end  of  long 
poles,  which  are  planted  in  the  graves :  the  number  of  horses 
sacrificed  is  proportioned  to  the  wealth  of  the  individual.  Besides 
the  horse-skins,  buffalo  and  deer  robes,  leather  shirts,  blankets, 
pieces  of  blue,  green,  and  scarlet  cloth,  strips  of  calico,  moccasins, 
provisions,  warlike  weapons,  &x.  are  placed  in  and  about  the 
cemetery ;  all  of  which  they  imagine  will  be  more  or  less  ne- 
cessary for  the  deceased  in  the  world  of  spirits.  As  their  lands 
are  much  infested  by  wolves,  which  destroy  the  foals,  they 

N 


f 


« 


5. 

«: 


■!%■ 


106 


DVEL — RBTVnN   TO   ASTORIA — ROBBERY. 


cannot  rear  horses  in  such  numbers  as  the  Nez  Percys,  from 
whom  they  are  obliged  to  purchase  them  annually.  They  never 
kill  any  for  their  own  use,  but  felt  no  repugnance  to  eat  the  flesh 
at  our  place.  As  I  may  herea<\er  have  occasion  to  speak  more 
of  this  tribe,  I  shall  for  the  present  revert  to  the  contmuation  of 
our  proceedings.  In  the  beginning  of  May,  Messrs.  Farnham 
and  Fillet  returned  from  their  wintering  posts.  Their  success 
exceeded  our  anticipations.  Both  Flat-heads  and  Cootonais 
made  excellent  winter  hunts,  and  returned  in  the  spring  loaded 
with  beaver.  Mr.  Fillet  fought  a  duel  with  Mr.  Montour  of  the 
North-west,  with  pocket  pistols,  at  six  paces ;  both  hits ;  one  in 
the  collar  of  the  coat,  and  the  other  in  the  leg  of  the  trousers. 
Two  of  their  men  acted  as  seconds,  and  the  tailor  speedily 
healed  their  wounds. 


I 


n  if 


■ 

ir 


CHAPTER  X. 

Ezecation  of  an  Indian  for  ro^'  -▼ — War  between  Great  Britain  and  the 
United  States — Dissolution  ' '  '  aclfic  Fur  Company — Author  joins  tha 
North-west  Company,  and  pi  '  -o  tl  e  Rocky  Mountains — meets  a  party 
and  returns  to  the  sea— Rob.  ..  goods,  and  successful  stratagem  to  re- 
cover the  property — Attack  ai  night — Dog-eating — Author  and  Uiree  men 
pursued  by  Indians — Narrow  escape. 

The  different  parties  having  now  assembled  at  Spokan  House, 
we  took  our  departure  from  that  establishment  on  the  25th  of 
May,  on  our  return  to  Astoria,  with  the  produce  of  our  winter's 
trade.  Mr.  Fillet  was  left  in  charge  of  the  fort  with  four  men. 
We  had  twenty-eight  loaded  horses ;  and  on  the  30th  of  May 
reached  the  entrance  of  the  creek  off  Lewis  River,  where  we 
had  lefl  our  barge  and  canoes. 

In  the  course  of  this  journey  we  passed  some  of  the  places  at 
which  I  had  slept  during  my  wanderings  in  the  preceding 
August.  I  pointed  out  to  my  fellow-travellers  several  heaps  of 
stones  which  I  had  piled  together,  and  on  which  I  had  scratched 
my  name. 

We  were  detained  a  couple  of  days  at  the  entrance  of  the 
creek  to  repair  the  bai^e  and  canoes,  in  consequence  of  the 
Indians  having  taken  a  quantity  of  nails  out  of  the  former.  Our 
tents  were  pitched  close  to  the  village,  and  not  suspecting  any 
dishonesty  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  we  kept  no  watch  the  first 
night.  Our  confidence,  however,  was  misplaced,  for  in  the 
morning  we  discovered  that  a  daring  robbery  had  been  com- 


mit 


3^ 


ii     f 


■** 


OFTENDBS   DUCOVBRBD— CONDEMNATION. 


107 


mitted  during  the  nisht.  In  the  tent  in  which  Mr.  Clarke  slept 
he  kept  a  laree  garae-viii,  which  he  had  locked  on  retiring  to 
rest,  but  the  key  of  which  he  had  omitted  tu  tuke  out ;  the  tent 
was  closely  fastened,  and  while  he  was  asleep,  the  strings  were 
untied,  \\m  garde-vin  opened,  and  a  valuable  silver  goblet  stolen 
thereout  I  Several  loose  articles  were  also  taken,  and  bundles 
belonging  to  many  of  the  men  were  carried  away.  Mr.  Clarke 
immediately  assembled  the  principal  Indians ;  told  them  of  the 
robbery;  declared  if  the  stolen  property  were  returned  he 
would  pardon  the  offender ;  but  added,  if  it  were  not,  and  that 
he  should  find  the  thief,  he  would  hang  him.  The  chief,  with 
several  others,  promised  they  would  use  their  be<.t  exertions  to 
discover  the  delinquent  and  bring  back  the  property ;  but  the 
day  passed  over  without  tidings  oieither.  On  the  second  night, 
the  olst,  two  sentinels  were  placed  at  each  end  of  the  camp, 
with  orders  to  conceal  themselves,  and  keep  a  sharp  look  out. 
Shortly  afler  midnight  they  observed  the  figure  of  a  man  creep- 
ing slowly  out  of  one  of  the  tents,  and  carrying  with  him  a 
bundle  of  clothes,  a  powder-horn,  &c.  They  silently  watched 
his  progress,  until  they  saw  him  in  the  act  of  jumping  into  a  small 
canoe  which  he  had  in  the  creek,  upon  which  they  sprung  for- 
ward, stopped  the  canoe,  and  seized  him.  We  were  instantly 
alarmed  ;  and  a  general  search  taking  place,  a  quantity  of  articlt." 
belonging  to  the  men  were  missed,  together  with  a  pistol  of 
Farnham's,  and  a  dagger  of  mine,  all  of  which  were  stolen  that 
niffht  Most  of  the  property  was  found  in  the  canoe  ;  but  he 
refused  to  give  any  account  of  the  remainder.  We  had  not  the 
slightest  suspicion  of  this  man,  who  had  been  remarkably  well 
treated  W  us ;  in  consequence  of  which,  and  the  aggravated 
nature  of'^ the  robber}..  Mr.  Clarke  determined  to  put  his  threat 
into  execution.  He  accordingly  ordered  a  temporary  gallows  to 
be  erected,  and  had  the  arms  and  legs  of  the  culprit  pinioned. 
About  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  June  he 
assembled  the  chief  and  all  the  Indians  of  the  village,  and  made 
a  short  speech,  in  which  he  told  the:n  that  the  prisoner  had 
abused  his  confidence,  violated  the  rights  of  hospitality,  and  com- 
mitted an  offence  for  which  he  ought  to  suffer  death ;  that  from 
an  anxiety  to  keep  on  good  terms  with  all  their  nation  he  had 
overlooked  many  thefts  committed  while  he  had  been  there  last 
Au^st,  which  lenity,  he  was  sorry  to  say,  had  only  led  to  more 
danng  acts  of  robbery  ;  and  that,  as  a  terror  to  others,  and  in 
order  to  show  that  it  was  not  fear  that  prevented  him  from  taking 
an  earlier  notice  of  such  aggressions,  he  had  now  resolved  that 
this  robber  should  be  hanged.  The  Indians  acquiesced  in  this 
decisinn ;  and  the  chief  declared  that  the  prisoner  did  not  belong 
to  their  tribe,  but  was  a  kind  of  outlaw,  of  whom  they  were  m 


*■■; 


# 


108 


EXBCimON — AUTHOR  JOIJfS   TUB   N.  W.  COMPAITV. 


\^. 


afraid.  The  gallows  being  now  prepared,  Mr.  Clarke  gave  the 
signal,  ond  after  great  resistance,  during  which  he  screamed  in 
the  most  frightfulmanner,  the  wretched  criminal  was  launched 
into  eternity.  Mis  countrymen  looked  on  the  whole  proceeding 
with  the  greatest  unconcern ;  but  the  unfortunate  bemg  himaelf 
exhibited  none  of  that  wonderful  self-command,  or  stoicaTindiifer- 
ence  to  death  which  we  observed  in  others,  and  for  which  Indians 
in  general  are  so  celebrated.  By  the  time  it  was  supposed  life 
was  extinct,  Mr.  M'Lonnan,  with  three  men,  set  off  with  the 
horses  on  his  return  to  Spokan,  and  we  embarked  in  the  canoes. 
The  current  was  swift,  and  we  arrived  early  the  following  day 
at  the  mouth  of  Lewis  River,  a  little  below  which  we  found  the 
parties  of  Messrs.  M'Kenzie  and  Stuart,  where  we  had  appointed 
to  meet  them  on  our  separation  the  preceding  autumn.  From 
this  place  we  proceeded  together,  and  arrived  at  Astoria  on  the 
11th  of  June,  1813,  without  incurring  any  material  accident. 
We  found  all  our  friends  in  good  health ;  but  a  total  revolution 
had  taken  place  in  the  affairs  of  the  Company.  Messrs.  John 
George  M'Tavish,  and  Joseph  La  Rocque,  of  the  North-west 
Company,  with  two  canoes  and  sixteen  men,  had  arrived  a  few 
days  before  us.  From  these  gentlemen  we  learned  for  the  first 
time,  that  war  had  been  declared  the  year  before  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States ;  and  that  in  consequence  of  the 
strict  blockade  of  the  American  ports  by  British  cruisers,  no 
vessel  would  venture  to  proceed  to  our  remote  establishment 
during  the  continuation  of  hostilities :  added  to  which,  a  trading 
vessel  which  had  touched  at  the  Columbia  in  the  early  part  of 
the  spring,  had  informed  our  people  that  the  ship  Beaver  was 
blocked  up  in  Canton. 

These  unlucky  and  unexpected  circumstances,  joined  to  the 
impossibility  of  sustaining  ourselves  another  year  in  the  country 
without  fresh  supplies,  which,  in  the  then  posture  of  affairs,  it 
would  be  hopeless  to  expect,  induced  our  proprietory  to  enter 
into  negotiations  with  Mr.  M'Tavish,  who  had  oeen  authorized 
by  the  North-west  Company  to  treat  with  them.  In  a  few  weeks 
an  amicable  arrangement  was  made,  by  which  Mr.  M'Tavish 
agreed  to  purchase  all  the  furs,  merchanHise,  provisions,  &c.,  of 
our  company  at  a  certain  valuation,  stipi iating  to  provide  a  safe 
passage  back  to  the  United  States,  either  by  sea,  or  across  the 
continent,  for  such  members  of  it  as  chose  to  return  ;  and  at  the 
same  time  offering  to  those  who  should  wish  to  join  the  North- 
west Company  and  remain  in  the  country  the  same  terms  as  if 
they  had  originally  been  members  of  that  Company.  Messrs. 
Ross,  M'Lennon,  and  I,  took  advantage  of  these  liberal  propo> 
sals,  and  some  time  after  Mr.  Duncan  M'Dougall,  one  of  the 
directors,  also  joined  the  North-west.  The  Americans  of  course 


li' 


DBSPATCIIB* — MEKTINO. 


109 


preferred  retnming  to  thtir  own  country,  hs  did  also  Mr.  Gabriel 
Froncherc,*  and  a  few  olhor  Cnnndinn  clerkH. 

The  pleasure  I  experienced  in  joining  an  cstahlishment,  every 
member  of  which  was  a  fellow-subject,  was  minded  with  deep 
regret  at  parting  from  so  many  of  my  late  associates,  for  some 
of  whom  I  entertained  a  sincere  regard, — a  regard  which  I  feel 
pleasure  in  saying  was  mutual,  and  which  tlio  difl'erence  of 
country  could  not  diminish.  My  friends  Clapp,  Ilalsey,  and 
Matthews  were  genuine  Americans  of  the  Washingtonian  school, 
and  consequently  untinctured  by  any  of  the  acrimonious  hatred 
to  the  land  of  their  forefathers,  which,  among  a  large  portion  of 
their  countrymen,  was  so  prevalent  at  that  angry  period.  And 
though  the  smguine  hopes  they  had  entertained  of  sealizing  in 
a  few  years  an  independence,  were  destroyed  by  the  war,  I 
feel  pleasure  in  being  able  to  add  that  they  arc  now  happily 
flourishing  in  their  native  country. 

As  Mr.  M'Tavish  expected  despatches  over-land  from  the 
directors  at  Montreal,  and  as  it  was  necessary  to  acquaint  the 
gentlemen  inland  with  the  change  that  affairs  had  taken  at  Astoria, 
Mr.  La  Rocque  and  I  proceeded  with  two  canoes  and  sixteen 
men  well  armed,  to  the  interior,  with  orders  to  leave  letters  at 
Oakinagan  and  Spokan,  explanatory  of  these  circumstances, 
and  thence  continue  on  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  Fort 
William  (the  great  central  depot  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior), 
unless  we  met  an  express,  in  which  case  we  were  to  return  to 
the  sea.  We  left  Astoria  on  the  5th  of  July,  and  having  no 
lading  in  our  canoes,  except  provisions,  we  passed  in  safety  the 
hostile  Indians  at  the  great  rapids  and  falls.  They  were  very 
numerous  at  the  latter  place  :  but  seeing  our  men  well  armed, 
and  our  canoes  empty,  they  had  no  idea  of  risking  their  lives 
when  no  plunder  could  be  obtained.  As  I  shall  have  occasion 
hereafter  to  give  a  particular  description  of  the  country  about 
the  upper  parts  of  the  Columbia,  I  shall  now  merely  mention 
that  we  passed  the  navigable  part  of  it,  and  reached  the  place 
where  one  of  its  sources  issues  out  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  on 
the  2d  of  September,  after  a  tedious  and  laborious  voyage  of 
two  months,  against  a  strong  current.  We  laid  up  our  canoe, 
and  were  preparing  to  set  out  on  foot,  when  we  were  agreeably 
surprised  by  the  arrival  of  Messrs.  John  Stuart,  Alexander 
Stewart,  and  Joseph  M'Gillivray,  partners  of  the  North-west 
Company,  who,  with  twenty  men,  were  on  their  way  to 
Astoria,  armed  with  full  powers  to  join  Mr.  M'Tavish  in  pur- 
chasing the  ijtock  of  the  American  Company.     They  acquainted 

*  From  thia  gentlem&n's  knowledge  of  the  Chinook  language,  Mr.  M'Tavish 
made  him  handsome  offers  to  join  the  North-west  Company,  which  he  refused. 
Ha  how0Ter  ramained  until  the  following  spring. 


k 


110 


I7BW8— DTLAIfD  KXPEDITION. 


1    '<    >.4 


i''' 


4 


ui  that  the  North-west  Company's  ship  called  the  "  laaac  Tod** 
sailed  from  I^ndon,  under  the  convoy  of  a  sloop  of  war,  for  the 
Columbia,  and  would  arrive  early  in  the  autumn,  with  a  hrgp 
cargo  for  the  Indian  trade.  These  gentlemen  brought  several 
newspapers  ;  and  having  heard  nothing  from  the  civilized  world 
for  two  years,  we  devoured  their  contents.  Mr.  M'Gillivray 
had  served  the  preccdinj|;  campaign  in  the  American  war  as  a 
lieutenant  in  the  Canadian  chasHCurs,  a  corps  commanded  by 
his  father  the  Hon.  William  M'Gillivray,  nnu  composed  chiefly 
of  the  gentlemen  and  voyageurs  of  the  North-west  Company. 
He  had  been  engaged  in  several  smart  affairs  with  the  enemy, 
and  was  at  the  taking  of  Michilimackinnc,  nt  which,  and  other 
places,  ho  had  considerably  distinguished  himself.  He  was 
therefore  our  great  chronicler  of  recent  eve..t.s,  and  during  our 
passage  downwards  our  thousand  and  one  interrogatories  seldom 
allowed  his  tongue  half  an  hour's  rest.  None  but  those  who 
have  been  so  long  debarred  from  the  passing  scenes  of  the  great 
world  can  form  an  idea  of  the  greedy  voracity  with  which 
exiles  so  circumstanced  swallow  the  most  trifling  news.  A 
remnant  of  a  newspaper  is  invaluable ;  and  even  an  auction- 
eer's advertisement,  or  a  quack-doctor's  pufl*  is  read  with  in« 
terest. 

We  reached  Astoria  on  the  11th  of  October,  having  travelled 
from  the  5th  of  July  upwards  of  two  thousand  three  hundred 
miles.  We  remained  here  till  the  latter  ena  of  «hc  month,  in  the 
expectation  of  set- in^  the  "  Isaac  Tod ;"  li<it  as  that  vessel  did 
not  arrive,  the  proprietors  determined  to  lend  a  strong  party  to 
the  interior  with  a  supply  of  such  goods  as  the  fort  coula  furnish 
for  the  winter's  trade.  The  necessary  arrangements  being  com- 
pleted, we  set  off*  on  the  29th  of  October.  Our  party  consisted 
of  Messrs.  John  Stuart,  Donald  Mackenzie,  Joseph  M'Gillivray, 
La  Rocque,  M'Donald,  Read,  and  the  author,  with  flfly-five  men. 
On  arriving  at  the  flrst  rapids  few  Indians  made  their  appearance ; 
and  from  their  peaceable  demeanour,  we  did  not  think  it  neces- 
sary to  observe  our  usual  caution  in  guarding  the  portages.  We 
passed  the  first  unmolested,  and  had  carried  about  one-third  of 
the  ^oods  over  the  second  when  we  were  alarmed  by  a  loud  cry, 
and  immediately  afler  one  of  the  men  appeared,  and  stated  that 
he  and  another  man  had  been  attacked  by  a  large  party  of  the 
natives,  who  had  knocked  them  down,  and  robbed  them  of  two 
bales  of  dry  goods,  with  which  they  made  off*  into  the  woods, 
and  that  he  ^ared  others  of  the  men  would  also  be  attacked. 
Orders  were  immediately  despatched  to  Messrs.  La  Rocque  and 
M'Gillivray,  who  were  at  the  foot  of  the  portage,  to  advance 
with  a  few  of  their  men,  while  Mr.  John  Stuart  and  I,  with  ten 
men,  proceeded  from  the  upper  end.    Mr.  M'Donald  remained 


INDIAN   ATTACK^PARLEY — STRATAGEM. 


Ill 


ten 
ained 


in  charge  at  one  end,  and  Mr.  Donuld  Mackenzie  at  the 
other. 

On  arriving  about  the  middle  of  thu  |K>rtflgo,  whore  the  village 
vras  situated,  wc  found  the  pathway  guarded  by  (idy  or  sixty 
Indians,  with  their  war-shirts  on,  and  fully  armed,  apparently 
determined  to  dispute  the  piiHHtige.  The  moment  they  perceived 
our  approach  they  placed  their  arrows  in  their  bows,  which  >ney 

S resented  at  us,  at   the   same  time  jumping  like  kangarooi 
ackwordn  and  forwards,  and  from  right  to  left,  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  render  it  almost  inifKiflsible  to  take  a  steady  aim  at  any  of 
them.     In  our  hu.  ry  wn  had  not  time  to  put  on  our  leathern 
armour,  and  from  the  hostile  appcaraixo  of  the  savages,  some  of 
our  men  declared  they  would  not  advance  a  step  farther.     Mr. 
Stuart  shortly  addressed  them,  pointing  out  the  dangerous  situa- 
tion in  which  we  were  placed,  between  two  portages ;  that  if 
the  enemy  observed  the  least  symptom  of  fear,  they  would 
become  the  assailants,  in  which  case  we  could  neither  advance 
nor  retreat,  and  must  ultimately  be  cut  off,  adding  at  the  same 
time  he  would  do  every  thing  in  his  power  to  avoid  coming  to 
extremities ;  but  that,  above  all  ti'nga,  it  was  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  show  them  the  most  determmcd  front.     The  men  here- 
upon consented  to  fight.     He  then  informed  the  Indians  that  he 
did  not  wish  to  fight — but  that  if  the  stolen  goods  were  not 
returned,  the  white  men  would  destroy  their  village  and  take  oil 
their  property.    We  were  imperfectly  acquainted  with  their 
language,  and  they  either  did  not,  or  affected  not  to  understand 
the  meaning  of  his  address  *,  for  they  still  continued  their  kan- 
garoo movements  with  their  arrows  presented,  preserving  at  the 
same  time  the  strictest  silence.     We  were  somewhat  puzzled  at 
this  conduct ;  but  as  we  were  anxious  to  avoid  bloodshed,  and 
at  the  same  time  to  recover  the  stolen  property,  Mr.  Stuart 
judged  it  prudent  to  wait  the  arrival  of  the  other  party.     In  a 
few  seconds  Messrs.  La  Rocque  and  M'Gillivray  with  their  men 
appeared  at  the  rear  of  the  Indians,  who  wore  thus  placed 
between  two  fires :  but  they  had  the  sagacity  to  perceive  that 
we  could  not  act  on  the  offensive  without  endangering  our  own 
lives.    About  one-half  of  them,  therefore,  quickly  turned  round, 
and  by  this  movement  presented  a  hostile  front  to  each  of  our 
small  parties.     During  tnis  time  none  of  their  old  men,  women, 
or  children,  made  their  appearance ;  and  as  Mr.  Stuart  supposed 
they  had  been  conveyed  from  the  village,  he  requested  Mr.  La 
Rocque  to  advance  with  a  few  of  his  men  into  the  wood  on  his 
right,  and  at  the  same  time  sent  me  with  five  of  our  party  to  the  lefi, 
ordering  each  of  us  to  seize  all  men^  women,  and  children  we  could 
find,  for  the  purpose  of  detaining  them  as  hostages  until  the  pro- 
perty should  oe  returned.  .  Messrs.  Stuart  and  M'Gillivray,  witli 


il 


1  'i 


112 


CAFnVES — RESTITITTION. 


I 


if  I 

i"      ! 


r  \  ■  '  I 


I 


% 


the  remainder  of  the  men,  still  kept  possession  of  the  pathway 
in  front  and  rear  of  the  village,  and  the  enemy  for  some  time 
were  ignorant  of  the  ruse  de  guerre  we  had  adopted.  I  pro- 
ceeded about  forty  yards  in  an  oblique  direction  to  the  left, 
with  my  party,  when  we  imagined  we  heard  voices  before  us : 
we  therefore  advanced  slowly  and  cautiously  a  few  paces  farther, 
until  we  arrived  at  a  large  rock.  I  sent  three  men  ro;md  one 
end  of  it;  and  proceeded  myself  with  the  remaining  two  round 
the  other ;  and,  as  we  turned  the  left  corner,  we  perceived  three 
old  men,  with  several  women  and  children,  sitting  round  a  fire ; 
some  of  whom  were  sharpening  iron  and  flint  heads  for  arrows, 
which,  after  being  heated  in  the  fire,  were  dipped  into  a  wooden 
bowl  containing  a  thick  blackish  liquid.  On  observing  us  they 
attempted  to  escape,  when  the  other  three  men  appeared.  We 
instantly  seized  their  armory,  and  took  two  of  the  old  men,  three 
women,  and  some  children  prisoners.  They  were  much  fright- 
ened, and  thought  we  would  put  them  to  death,  but  on  our 
explaining  that  they  would  sustain  no  injury  if  our  goods  were 
returned,  they  appeared  more  tranquil,  and  came  with  us  quietly 
until  we  reached  Mr.  Stuart,  who  was  still  in  the  same  situation. 
La  Kocque  was  equally  fortunate,  and  had  captured  an  old  man, 
four  women,  and  five  children,  on  his  side  of  the  wood,  with 
whom  he  had  just  appeared  in  sight  as  my  party  arrived. 

The  warriors  were  quite  staggered  at  finding  we  had  made  so 
many  prisoners,  and  fearing  we  might  follow  their  own  mode, 
which  was  either  to  kill  them  or  make  them  slaves,  they  at  once 
laid  down  their  arms,  and  offered  to  go  in  search  of  the  bales, 
provided  we  would  liberate  the  prisoners.  Mr.  Stuart  replied 
that  none  of  them  would  be  injured,  but  that  they  should  remain 
in  custody  until  the  property  was  restored  and  our  people  safely 
over  the  portage.  A  guard  was  then  stationed  over  the  prison- 
era,  and  word  was  sent  to  M'Donald  to  order  his  men  to 
recommence  the  carriage  of  the  goods ;  during  the  progress  of 
which  wc  kept  up  a  chain  of  sentinels  en  route.  By  the  time  we 
had  nearly  finished,  three  of  the  Indians,  whose  wives  were  cap- 
tives, brought  a  great  part  of  the  contents  of  the  bales,  which 
they  alleged  they  took  by  force  from  the  thieves,  who  had  cut 
open  the  envelopes  and  concealed  the  remainder;  and  they 
therefore  hoped  we  would  allow  their  relations  to  return  home. 
Mr.  Stuart  told  them  he  was  determined  not  to  allow  one  of 
them  to  stir  until  every  article  that  had  been  stolen  was  brought 
back.  The  eldest  of  the  three  declared  that  it  was  very  unjust 
of  the  white  men  to  punish  him  and  his  relations  for  the  dishon- 
esty of  others,  and  that  when  he  expected  a  reward  for  his 
exertions  ui  bringing  back  so  much  property,  he  found  his  wife 
and  children  were  to  be  detained  as  slaves.    All  this  appeared 


M 


MIDNIGHT  ATfACK ENEMY  KBPULSED. 


113 


very  plausible  ;  but  we  recognised  this  very  fellow  as  one  of  the 
most  prominent  and  active  of  the  armed  band,  and  apparently 
their  leader. 

He  made  some  farther  remonstrances  to  the  same  effect ;  but 
finding  we  were  inflexible,  he  went  away  with  his  two  com- 
panions ;  and  in  about  half  an  hour  after  returned,  accompanied 
by  several  others,  with  the  remainder  of  the  stolen  property. 
They  alleged  the  thieves  had  run  away,  and  on  asking  them  for 
their  chief,  they  said  he  was  absent.  The  canoes  having  been 
now  laden,  Mr.  Stuart  told  them  that  he  should  release  their 
friends  and  relations  for  this  time,  but  that  if  another  attempt 
was  ever  made,  the  white  people  would  punish  them  severely ; 
and  as  a  mark  of  his  anger  at  their  late  conduct,  he  would  not 
then  give  them  the  usual  gratuity  of  tobaccc.  The  prisoners 
were  then  released,  and  we  pushed  oil".  As  it  was  rather  late, 
we  could  not  advance  more  than  three  miles,  when  we  encamped 
in  a  small  cove  on  the  left  side,  behind  which  was  a  thick  wood 
of  hazel,  beech,  and  pine.  We  had  a  large  fire  at  each  end  of 
the  camp  ;  and  the  party  was  divided  into  two  watches.  The 
forepart  of  the  night  passed  olf  quietly  ;  but  about  two  o'clock 
in  the  morning  we  were  alarmed  by  one  of  the  flank  sentinels 
being  brought  to  the  centre  wounded.  He  stated  that  he  and 
two  of  his  comrades  had  approached  the  fire  for  the  purpose  of 
lighting  their  pipes,  when  several  arrows  were  discharged  at 
them  from  the  wood,  one  of  which  wounded  him  in  the  left 
arm :  upon  hearing  which  Messrs.  La  Rocque  and  M' Donald, 
who  commanded  the  watch,  fired  into  the  wood.  The  tents 
were  immediately  struck,  and  the  men  ordered  to  withdraw 
from  the  fires  and  concentrate  themselves  behind  the  canoes. 
About  ten  minutes  afterward  a  shower  of  arrows  was  dis- 
charged from  the  same  place,  followed  by  loud  yells  ;  but  some 
passed  over  our  heads,  while  others  were  intercepted  by  the 
canoes,  in  which  they  remained  fast.  The  two  watches  were 
now  ordered  to  fire  a  volley  alternately,  and  load  immediately. 
The  first  discharge  caused  much  rustling  among  the  leaves  and 
branches;  the  second,  as  we  supposed,  completely  dislodged 
them,  and  from  moans  heard  from  the  retreating  savages  we 
had  reason  to  think  that  some  of  our  balls  took  effect.  It  was  a 
cold  damp  morning,  and  what  between  the  fatigues  and  dangers 
of  the  preceding  day,  fear,  chillness,  and  the  want  of  sleep,  our 
men  did  not  seem  much  disposed  for  fighting.  Mr.  Stuart 
therefore  ordered  each  man  a  double  allowance  of  rum,  "  to 
make  his  courage  cheerie,"  and  the  moment  daylight  began  to 
dawn  the  canoes  were  thrown  into  the  water,  and  the  lading 
immediately  commenced. 

The  canoe-men  embarked  first,  and  we  followed.    The  last 

O 


r- 


i   • 

1 

■ 

1 

1 

H 

B 

1    1 

■r 

1 

11 

H 

114      SCARCITY  OF  PROVISIONS — SXFERIMENTAL  BXCVRSIOIV. 


man  on  shore  was  a  celebrated  half-bred  hunter,  named  Pierre 
Mic  :el,  and  just  as  he  was  about  stepping  into  his  canoe,  one  of 
the  men  perceived  a  tall  Indian  emerge  from  the  wood,  and 
bend  his  bow :  he  had  scarcely  time  to  warn  Michel  of  his 
danger  ere  the  arrow  winged  its  flight,  and  completely  pierced 
his  hat,  in  which  it  remained  fixed.  Michel  instantly  turned 
round,  and  as  the  savage  retreated  into  the  wood,  fired,  and  hit 
him  somewhere  about  the  knee.  He  then  sprung  into  the  canoe ; 
we  discharged  a  few  more  shots,  pushed  off,  and  paddled  quickly 
to  the  opposite  side.  From  the  grayish  twilight  of  the  morning 
we  had  only  an  imperfect  view  of  the  Indian ;  but  the  men  who 
had  the  best  opportunity  of  seeing  him  were  of  opinion  that  he 
was  the  same  who  had  expostulated  the  day  before  about  the 
detention  of  his  wife,  after  he  had  brought  back  part  of  the 
goods.  We  landed  about  ten  miles  farther  up  on  the  right  side, 
on  an  open  point ;  and  as  the  canoes  wanted  repairing,  and  the 
men  stood  in  need  of  repose,  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  remain 
there  during  the  day.  I  forgot  to  mention  that  one  of  our 
Iroquois  hunters  sucked  the  wound  which  the  man  had  received 
from  the  arrow  in  the  arm  :  this  probably  saved  the  poor  fellow's 
life,  as  ve  had  reason  to  think  the  arrow  was  poisoned.  The 
day  after  the  arm  became  quite  black  from  the  wrist  lo  the 
shoulder ;  but,  by  the  use  of  caustic  applications,  the  dangerous 
symptoms  were  dispersed,  and  in  a  few  we  ks  he  recovered  his 
ordinary  health. 

From  this  place  to  the  narrows  and  falls  we  saw  no  Indians ; 
but  at  the  latter  we  found  about  fifleen  lodges  of  the  Eneeshurs. 
As  our  provisions  were  nearly  consumed  we  were  obliged  to 
purchase  iwenty  dogs  from  them.  It  was  the  first  time  I  had 
eaten  any  ^f  the  flesh  of  this  animal,  and  nothing  but  stern 
necessity  could  have  induced  me  to  partake  of  it.  The  president 
of  our  mess  called  it  mutton,  which  it  somewhat  resembles  in 
taste.  We  generally  had  it  roasted,  but  the  Canadians  preferred 
it  boiled,  and  the  majority  of  them  seemed  to  think  it  superior 
to  horse-flesh.  In  this,  however,  I  entirely  differ  from  them,  for 
the  latter  is  a  cleaner  animal,  and  in  taste  bears  a  stronger 
resemblance  to  beef  than  the  dog  does  to  mutton.  The  natives 
behaved  themselves  quietly,  and  did  not  show  any  disposition  to 
pilfer. 

From  hence  to  the  Wallah  Wallah  river  we  obtained  no  horses, 
and  our  chief  support  consisted  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  dogs, 
which  we  purchased  at  the  different  villages.  The  Wallah 
Wallahs  'received  us  in  their  usual  friendly  manner,  and  we 
purchased  from  them  about  twenty  good  horses. 

Mr.  Read,  accompanied  by  eight  men  (excellent  hunters), 
left  us  here  on  an  experimental  journey  to  the  country  of  the 


VORtlTNATB   ESCAPE. 


115 


Shoshone  or  Snake  Indians,  on  ^hose  lands  he  had  seen  great 
quantities  of  beaver  in  the  course  of  his  journey  across  the 
continent  with  Mr.  Hunt.    His  party  took  sixteen  of  the  horses 
with  them. 
After  leaving  this  place  the  weather  set  in  very  cold,  accom- 

Eanied  by  occasional  showers  of  snow,  and  we  became  appre- 
ensive  that  we  should  encounter  much  difficulty  in  reaching 
our  various  wintering  posts.  We  therefore  stopped  at  a  village 
a  short  distance  above-  Lewis  River,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Columbia;  where,  with  hard  bargaining,  and  after  giving  an 
exorbitant  price,  we  obtained  six  horses.  With  these  and 
three  men  I  was  ordered  to  proceed  across  the  country  to 
Spokan  House,  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  down  a  sufficient 
number  of  the  Company's  horses  to  Oakinagan,  where  the 
canoes  were  to  stop,  the  trading  goods  having  to  be  conveyed 
from  thence  by  land-carriage  to  their  respective  winter  desti- 
nations. 

Two  of  the  horses  carried  our  provisions  and  blankets  ;  and 
as  we  learned  from  the  Wallah  Wallahs  that  the  relations  of  the 
Indian  who  had  been  hanged  by  Mr.  Clarke  in  the  spring  were 
in  the  plains,  and  had  declared  their  determination  to  have 
satisfaction  for  his  death,  we  got  particular  orders  not  to  separate, 
or  on  any  account  to  tire  our  horses  by  deer-hunting.  I  made 
the  men  change  their  muskets  for  short  trading  guns,  about  the 
size  of  carbines ;  with  which,  a  brace  of  pistols,  nnd  a  dagger 
each,  we  set  out  on  our  over-land  journey.  The  two  first  days 
we  passed  in  hard  galloping,  without  meeting  any  thing  worth 
noticing ;  but  about  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  third  day, 
as  we  were  preparing  to  remount  after  breakfast,  we  observed 
three  Indians  about  a  mile  distant,  advancing  from  the  direction 
of  Lewis  River.  They  were  mounted,  and,  on  perceiving  us, 
stopped  a  few  minutes  in  order  to  ascertain  our  numbers.  We 
did  not  like  this :  and  made  signs  to  them  to  approach,  which 
they  affected  not  to  understand :  but  after  reconnoitring  us  some 
time,  and  making  themselves  certain  that  our  number  did  not 
exceed  four,  they  wheeled  about  and  galloped  back  in  the  same 
direction.  Being  now  of  opinion  that  their  intentions  were  not 
friendly,  we  increased  our  speed,  and  for  upwards  of  three  hours 
none  of  them  made  their  appearance.  Our  horses  being  nearly 
exhausted,  we  slackened  the  reins  for  about  half  an  hour,  after 

Eutting  two  of  the  most  jaded  under  the  saddle-bags.  This  rest 
rought  them  to  again,  and  probably  saved  us ;  for  about  two 
o'clock  we  observed  large  clouds  of  dust  in  a  south-westerly 
direction,  which,  on  clearing  away,  displayed  to  our  view 
between  thirty  and  forty  of  the  savages  on  horseback  in  pursuit 
of  us.     Sauve  qui  pent  was  now  the  cry ;  and  as  the  two  spare 


■! 


^1 


^^1 


116 


SKIRMISH — ^FORTUNATE  RELIEF. 


l'«, 


K,         Vi 


r!:. 


horses  with  the  saddle-bags  retarded  our  escape,  we  left  them 
behind,  and  galloped  away  for  our  lives.  The  enemy  gradually 
gained  on  us ;  but  we  observed  that  the  greateV  number  had 
fallen  back,  or  given  up  the  pursuit,  and  at  the  end  of  two  hours 
only  ten  were  in  sight.  Still  we  did  not  think  ourselves  a  match 
for  them ;  but  shortly  after  their  numbers  were  reduced  to  eight, 
apparently  well  mounted  and  armed.  Our  horses  began  to 
totter,  and  it  became  quite  evident  could  not  proceed  much 
farther  at  such  a  rate.  I  knew  the  men  were  made  of  good 
materials,  and  therefore  proposed  to  them  to  dismount,  take  our 
station  behind  the  horses,  and  when  our  pursuers  came  whhin 
the  range  of  our  shot,  each  to  cover  his  man,  and  fire ;  after 
which,  if  we  had  not  time  to  reload,  we  could  work  with  our 
pistols.  They  all  agreed  ;  but  the  moment  the  enemy  perceived 
us  dismount  and  take  up  our  position,  they  at  once  guessed  our 
object,  and  turned  about  for  the  purpose  of  retreating.  We 
instantly  fired,  and  two  of  their  horses  fell :  their  riders  quickly 
mounted  behind  their  companions,  and  in  a  short  time  disap- 
peared. We  wer  now  quite  overjoyed  at  seeing  the  horse  with 
our  provisions  gallop  up  to  us  ;  but  the  other,  which  carried  our 
blankets  was,  1  suppose,  captured.  The  report  of  our  firearms 
brought  us  much  more  important  relief,  by  the  appearance  of 
ten  young  hunters  belonging  to  the  Spokan  nation,  with  every 
one  of  whom  we  were  well  acquainted,  and  on  whose  hunting- 
grounds  we  then  were.  On  telling  them  of  our  escape,  they 
were  quite  indignant,  and  declared  that,  although  they  were 
not  at  war  with  the  Nez  Perces  Indians,  they  would  willingly 
join  us  in  pursuit  of  them,  and  chastise  them  for  their  presump- 
tion in  following  their  white  friends  to  their  hunting-grounds  ; 
adding  that  they  knew  their  chief's  heart  would  be  glad  at  any 
assistance  they  could  render  us.  I  thanked  them  for  their 
friendly  offer,  which  I  declined ;  assigning  as  a  reason,  that  we 
wished  to  live  on  gooc  terms  with  all  the  nations,  and  that  I  had 
no  doubt  we  should  be  able  to  convince  the  foolish  people  who 
had  lately  pursued  us  of  the  impolicy  of  their  conduct  towards 
the  whites.  We  p/oceeded  about  ten  miles  farther  that  evening, 
and  slept  in  company  with  the  Spokans,  who  kept  watch  in  turn 
during  the  night.  The  following  day,  the  21st  of  November, 
two  of  them  accompanied  us,  and  we  arrived  at  the  fort  about 
four  in  the  evening,  without  meeting  any  farther  danger. 


:?, 


^ 


JOVRNET   TO  OAKINAOAK — INSTRUCTIONS. 


117 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Author  proceeds  to  Oakinagan,  and  thcnco  to  the  Flat-heads,  where  he  passea 
the  winter — Cruel  treatment  of  the  Black-feet  prisoners  by  the  Flat-heads 
— Horrible  spectacle — Buft'alo  the  cause  of  war  between  the  two  tribes — 
Women — Government — Peace  and  war  chiefs — Wolves — Anecdote  of  a  dog 
— Sjrup  of  birch — Surgical  and  medical  knowledge  of  Flat-heads — Re- 
markable cure  of  rheumatism — Their  ideas  of  a  future  state  ;  and  curious 
tradition  respecting  the  beavers — Name  of  Flat-head  a  misnomer — A  mar- 
riage. 

As  despatch  was  necessary,  owing  to  the  lateness  ot  /he  season, 
I  remained  only  one  night  at  Spokan  House,  and  set  off  early 
in  the  morning  of  the  'i2d  November  for  Oakinagan.  I  took 
two  additional  men  with  me  and  fifty  horses.  The  road  was 
good,  the  distance  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  no 
danger  to  be  apprehended  from  Indians.  Having  i^'.jnty  of 
horses  to  change,  we  went  on  briskly ;  and  on  the  evening  of 
the  25th  arrived  at  the  Columbia,  opposite  the  entrance  o*"  Oak- 
inagan river,  where  the  fort  was  built.  On  crossing  over  I  found 
that  the  northern  parties  had  set  off  for  their  wintering  quarters ; 
and  as  I  was  appointed  to  take  charge  of  those  intended  for  the 
eastern  posts,  I  slept  only  that  night  at  Oakinagan,  and  the  next 
morning  (the  26th)  had  all  the  goods  transported  across  the 
river.  The  following  is  an  extract  from  the  letter  of  instructions 
directed  to  me  on  this  occasion,  the  whole  of  which  is  rather 
lengthy  and  uninteresting  for  insertion : — 

"  On  your  arrival  here,  you  will  assume  the  immediate  man- 
agement of  the  brigade,  and  every  thing  else  during  the  voyage  ;* 
and  make  the  best  of  your  way  to  Spokan  House,  where  you 
will  make  as  little  delay  an  possible.  From  thence  you  will 
proceed  to  join  Mr.  M'Millan  at  the  Flat-heads ;  and  if  you  are 
reduced  to  eat  horses,  either  at  Spokan  or  farther  on,  they  ought 
to  be  the  worst."  The  liberal  writer  of  this  economical  advice 
was  in  other  respects  a  very  worthy,  good-natured  indiNidual, 
and  in  his  own  person  evinced  the  most  Spartan  contempt  for 
the  good  things  of  the  table.  Tobacco  was  his  mistress  ;  and 
from  the  moment  he  rose  until  he  retired  to  rest,  his  calumet 
was  seldom  allowed  to  cool.  I  was  not,  however,  philosopher 
enough  to  prefer  the  intoxicating  fumes  of  the  Virginian  weed 
to  the  substantial  enjoyment  of  fat  and  lean ;  and  candidly  con- 

*  This  word  is  used  generally  in  the  Indian  country  for  all  terraqueotu 
journeys ;  and  voj/ageun  is  the  term  applied  to  the  Canadian  canoemen. 


118 


TIMBLY   AHRIVAL— TREATMENT  OP   CAPTIVES. 


Hi 


If 


fess,  that  in  my  choice  of  horses  for  the  kettle,  I  wilfully  de- 

i)arted  from  my  instructions  by  selecting  those  whose  ribs  were 
east  visible. 

We  arrived  safely  at  Spokan,  at  which  place  I  slept  one  night, 
and  then  continued  on  for  the  Flat-heads  with  eight  men  and 
twelve  loaded  horses.  We  pursued  the  same  route  I  had  fol- 
lowed the  preceding  winter  with  my  friend  Farnham,  through 
the  thick  woods  along  the  banks  of  the  Flat-head  river ;  and 
after  suffering  great  hardships  from  cold  and  snow,  reached  Mr. 
M'Millan  on  the  24th  of  December,  with  the  loss  of  two  horses, 
which  we  were  obliged  to  leave  in  the  woods  from  exhaustion. 
The  fort  was  about  forty  miles  higher  up  in  an  easterly  direction 
than  the  place  Farnham  and  I  had  chosen  for  the  log-house.  It 
had  a  good  trading  store,  a  comfortable  house  for  the  men,  and 
a  snug  box  for  ourselves ;  all  situated  on  a  point  formed  by  the 
junction  of  a  bold  mountain  torrent  with  the  Flat-head  river,  and 
surrounded  on  all  sides  with  high  and  thickly  wooded  hills,  cov- 
ered with  pine,  spruce,  larch,  beech,  birch,  and  cedar.  A  large 
band  of  the  Flat-head  warriors  were  encamped  about  the  fort. 
They  had  recently  returned  from  the  buffalo  country,  and  had 
revenged  their  defeat  of  the  preceding  year  by  a  signal  victory 
over  their  enemies  the  Black-feet,  several  of  whose  warriors, 
with  their  women,  they  had  taken  prisoners.  M'Millan's  tobacco 
and  stock  of  trading  goods  had  been  entirely  expended  previous 
to  my  arrival,  and  the  Indians  were  much  in  want  of  ammuni- 
tion, &c.  My  appearance,  or  I  should  rather  say,  the  goods  I 
brought  with  me,  was  therefore  a  source  of  great  joy  to  both 
parties.  The  natives  smoked  the  much-loved  weed  for  several 
days  successively.  Our  hunters  killed  a  few  mountain  sheep, 
and  I  brought  up  a  bag  of  flour,  a  bag  of  rice,  plenty  of  tea  and 
coffee,  some  arrowroot,  and  fifteen  gallons  of  prime  rum.  We 
spent  a  comparatively  happy  Christmas,  and  by  the  side  of  a 
blazing  fire  in  a  warm  room,  forgot  the  sufferings  we  endured 
in  our  dreary  progress  through  the  woods.  There  was,  how- 
ever, in  the  midst  of  our  festivities,  a  great  drawback  from  the 
pleasure  we  should  otherwise  have  enjoyed.  I  allude  to  the 
unfortunate  Black-feet  who  had  been  captured  by  the  Flat- 
heads.  Having  been  informed  that  they  were  about  putting 
one  of  their  prisoners  to  death,  I  went  to  their  camp  to  witness 
the  spectacle.  The  man  was  tied  to  a  tree ;  after  which  they 
heated  an  old  barrel  of  a  gun  until  it  became  red  hot,  with  which 
they  burned  him  on  the  legs,  thighs,  neck,  cheeks,  and  bellv. 
They  then  commenced  cutting  the  flesh  from  about  the  nails, 
which  they  pulled  out,  and  next  separated  the  fingers  from  the 
hand  joint  by  joint.  During  the  performance  of  these  cruelties 
the  wretched  captive  never  winced,  and  instead  of  suing  for 


HORIIIBI.E  CRUELTIES — REMONSTRANCE. 


119 


mercy,  he  added  fresh  stimulants  to  their  barbarous  ingenuity 
by  the  most  irritating  reprooches,  part  of  which  our  interpreter 
translated  as  follows : — "  My  heart  is  strong. — You  do  not  hurt 
me. — You  can't  hurt  mo. — You  are  fools. — You  do  not  know 
how  to  torture. — Try  it  again. — I  don't  feel  any  pain  yet. — We 
torture  your  relations  a  great  deal  better,  because  we  make 
them  cry  out  loud,  like  little  children. — You  are  not  brave :  you 
have  small  hearts,  and  you  are  always  afraid  to  fight."  Then 
addressing  one  in  particular,  he  said,  "  It  was  by  my  arrow  you 
lost  your  eye ;"  upon  which  the  Flat-head  darted  at  him,  and 
with  a  knitc  in  a  moment  scooped  out  one  of  his  eyes ;  at  the 
same  time  cutting  the  bridge  of  his  nose  nearly  in  two.  This 
did  not  stop  him :  with  the  remaining  eye  he  looked  sternly  at 
another,  and  said,  "  I  killed  your  brother,  and  I  scalped  your  old 
fool  of  a  father."  The  warrior  to  whom  this  was  addressed 
instantly  sprung  at  him,  and  separated  the  scalp  from  his  head. 
He  was  then  about  plunging  a  knife  in  his  heart,  until  he  was 
told  by  the  chief  to  desist.  The  raw  scull,  bloody  socket,  and 
mutilated  nose  now  presented  an  horrific  appearance,  but  by  no 
means  changed  his  tone  of  defiance.  "  It  was  I,"  said  he  to  the 
chief,  "  that  made  your  wife  a  prisoner  last  fall ; — we  put  out 
her  eyes ; — we  tore  out  her  tongue  ; — we  treated  her  like  a  dog. 
Forty  of  our  young  warriors — " 

The  chieftain  became  incensed  the  moment  his  wife's  name 
was  mentioned :  he  seized  his  gun,  a.  .d,  before  the  last 
sentence  was  ended,  a  ball  fro  r  it  passed  through  the  brave 
fellow's  h  art,  and  terminated  hifj  frightful  sufferings.  Shocking, 
however,  as  iMs  dreadful  exhibition  v/as,  it  was  far  exceeded  by 
the  atrocious  cruelties  practised  on  the  female  prisoners;  in  which, 
I  am  sorry  to  say,  the  Flat-hr,ad  women  assisted  with  more  savage 
fury  than  the  men.  I  only  witnessed  part  of  what  one  wretched 
young  woman  suffered,  a  detail  of  which  would  be  too  revolting 
for  publicity.  We  remonstrated  against  the  exercise  of  such 
horrible  cruelties.  They  replied  by  saying  the  Black-feet  treated 
their  relations  in  the  same  manner;  that  it  was  the  course 
adopted  by  all  red  warriors ;  and  that  they  could  not  think  of 
giving  up  the  gratificatim  of  their  revenge  to  the  foolish  and 
womanish  feelings  of  w  lite  men.  Shortly  after  this  we  observed 
a  young  female  led  foUh,  apparently  not  more  than  fourteen  or 
iifleen  years  of  age,  surrounded  by  some  old  women,  who  were 
conducting  her  to  one  end  of  the  village,  whither  they  were  fol- 
lowed by  a  number  of  young  men.  Having  learned  the  infamous 
intentions  of  her  conquerors,  and  feeling  interested  for  the  unfor- 
tunate victim,  we  renewed  our  remonstrances, but  received  nearly 
the  same  answer  as  before.  Finding  them  still  inflexible,  and 
wishing  to  adopt  every  means  in  our  power  consistent  with  safety 


-»1 


m 


•,±%. 


130 


DECREASE   OF   POPULATION ANNUAL   CONrLICVS. 


in  the  cause  of  humanity,  we  ordered  our  interpreter  to  acquaint 
them,  that,  highly  as  we  valued  their  friendship,  and  much  as  we 
eBteemedtheirfurs,we  would  quit  their  country  forever  unless  they 
discontinued  their  unmanly  and  disgraceful  cruelties  to  their  pri- 
soners. This  had  the  desired  cflect,  and  the  miserable  captive  was 
led  back  to  her  sorrowing  group  of  friends.  Our  interference 
was  nearly  rendered  inetlectual  by  the  furious  reproaches  of  the 
infernal  old  priestesses  who  had  been  conducting  her  to  the  sacri- 
fice. They  told  the  young  warriors  they  were  cowards,  fools, 
and  had  not  the  hearts  of  fleas ;  and  called  upon  them  in  the 
names  of  their  mothers,  sisters,  and  wives,  to  follow  the  steps  of 
their  forefathers,  and  have  their  revenge  on  the  dogs  of  Black- 
feet.  They  began  to  waver ;  but  we  aflected  not  to  understand 
what  the  old  women  had  been  saying.  We  told  them  that  this 
act  of  self-denial  on  their  part  was  peculiarly  grateful  to  the 
white  men ;  and  that  by  it  they  would  secure  our  permanent 
residence  among  them,  and  in  return  for  their  furs  be  always 
furnished  with  guns  and  ammunition  suflicient  to  repel  the 
attacks  of  their  old  enemies,  and  preserve  their  relations  from 
being  made  prisoners.  This  decided  the  doubtful ;  and  the  chief 
promised  faithfully  that  no  mr  re  tortures  should  be  inflicted  on 
the  prisoners,  which  I  believe  was  rigidly  adhered  to,  at  least 
for  that  winter. 

The  Flat-heads  were  formerly  much  more  numerous  than  they 
were  at  this  period  ;  but  owing  to  the  constant  hostilities  between 
them  and  the  Black-feet  Indians,  their  numbers  had  been  greatly 
diminished.  While  pride,  policy,  ambition,  self-preservation,  or 
the  love  of  aggrandizement,  often  deluges  the  civilized  world 
with  Christian  blood  ;  the  only  cause  assigned  by  the  natives  of 
whom  I  write,  for  their  perpetual  warfare,  is  their  love  of  buf- 
falo. There  are  extensive  plains  to  the  eastward  of  the  moun- 
tains frequented  in  the  summer  and  autumnal  months  by  nume- 
rous herds  of  buffaloes.  Hither  the  rival  tribes  repair  to  hunt 
those  animals,  that  they  may  procure  as  much  of  their  meat  as 
will  supply  them  until  the  succeeding  season.  In  these  excursions 
they  often  meet,  and  the  most  sanguinary  conflicts  follow. 

The  Black-feet  lay  claim  to  all  that  part  of  the  country  imme- 
diately at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  which  is  most  frequented  by 
the  buffalo ;  and  allege  that  the  Flat-heads,  by  resorting  thither 
to  hup',,  are  intruders  whom  they  are  bound  to  oppose  on  all 
occasions.  The  latter,  on  the  contrary,  assert,  that  their  fore- 
fathers had  always  claimed  and  exercised  the  right  of  hunting 
on  these  "  debateable  lands  ;"  and  that  while  one  of  their  war- 
riors remained  alive  the  right  should  not  be  relinquished.  The 
consequences  of  these  continual  wars  are  dreadful,  particularly 
to  the  Flat-heads,  who,  being  the  weaker  in  numbers,  were  gene- 


Hl; 


IMDIAN  WAMTASB— TRK  rhAT'UUAM. 


121 


rally  the  greater  sufTerera.  Independently  of  their  inferiority  in 
thif  respect,  their  enemy  had  another  great  advantage  in  the  use 
of  firearms,  which  they  obtained  from  the  Company's  trading  posts 
Mtablished  in  the  department  of  Forts  des  Prairies.  To  these 
the  Flat-heads  had  nothing  to  oppose  but  arrows  and  their  own 
undaunted  bravery.  Every  year  previous  to  our  crossing  the 
mountains  witnessed  the  gradual  diminution  of  their  numbers ; 
and  total  annihilation  would  shortly  have  been  the  consequence, 
but  for  our  arrival  with  a  plentiful  supply  of  "villanous  salt- 
petre."  They  were  overjoyed  at  having  an  opportunity  of  pur- 
chasing arms  and  ammunition,  and  quickly  stocked  themselves 
with  a  sufficient  quantity  o^  both. 

From  this  moment  atfa;.-s  took  a  decided  change  in  their 
favour ;  and  in  their  subsequent  contests  the  numbers  of  killed, 
wounded,  and  prisoners  were  more  equal.  The  Black-feet 
became  enraged  at  this,  and  declared  to  our  people  at  Forts 
des  Prairies,  that  all  white  men  who  might  happen  to  fall  into 
their  hands,  to  the  westward  of  the  mountains,  would  be  treated 
by  them  as  enemies,  in  consequence  of  their  furnishing  the  Flat- 
heads  with  weapons,  which  were  used  with  such  deadly  effect 
against  their  nation.  This  threat,  as  will  appear  hereafter,  was 
strictly  put  in  execution.  The  lands  of  the  Flat-heads  are  well 
stocked  with  deer,  mountain  sheep,  bears,  wild-fowl,  and  fish ; 
and  when  we  endeavoured  to  induce  them  to  give  up  such  dan- 
gerous expeditions,  and  confine  themselves  to  the  produce  of  their 
own  country,  they  replied,  that  their  fathers  had  always  hunted 
on  the  buffalo  grounds ;  that  they  were  accustomed  to  do  the 
same  thing  from  their  infancy ;  and  they  would  not  now 
abandon  a  practice  which  had  existed  for  several  generations 
among  their  people. 

With  the  exception  of  the  cruel  treatment  of  their  prisoners 
(which,  as  it  is  general  among  all  savages,  must  not  be  imputed 
to  them  as  a  peculiar  vice),  the  Flat-heads  have  fewer  failings 
than  any  of  the  tribes  I  ever  met  with.  They  are  honest  in 
their  dealings,  brave  in  the  field,  quiet  and  amenable  to  their 
chiefs,  fond  of  cleanliness,  and  decided  enemies  to  falsehood  of 
every  description.  The  women  are  excellent  wives  and  mothers, 
and  their  character  for  fidelity  is  so  well  established,  that  we 
never  heard  an  instance  of  one  of  them  proving  unfaithful  to  her 
husband.  They  are  also  free  from  the  vice  of  backbiting,  so 
common  among  the  lower  tribes;  and  laziness  is  a  stranger 
among  them.  Both  sexes  are  comparatively  very  fair,  and  their 
complexions  are  a  shade  lighter  than  the  palest  new  copper  after 
being  freshly  rubbed.  They  are  remarkably  well  made,  rather 
slender,  and  never  corpulent.  The  dress  of  the  men  consists 
solely  of  long  leggings,  called  mittasses  by  the  Canadians,  which 


^y 


# 


CIIARACTEB   AND   DRB88 — SVBORDINATION. 


Mj 


reach  from  tho  ancles  to  the  hips,  and  are  fastened  by  strings  to 
a  leathern  belt  round  the  waist,  and  a  shirt  of  dressed  deer-skin, 
with  loose  hanging  sleeves,  which  falls  down  *o  their  knees.  The 
outside  scams  of  the  leggings  and  shirt  <cd  have  fringes  of 
leather.    The  women  are  covered  by  je  robe  of  tlie  same 

material  reaching  from  the  neck  to  the  tv.et,  and  ornamented  with 
fringes,  beads,  hawk-bells,  and  thimbles.  The  dresses  of  both 
are  regularly  cleaned  with  pipe-clay,  which  abounds  in  parts  of 
the  country;  and  every  individual  has  two  or  three  changes. 
They  have  no  permanent  covering  for  the  head,  but  in  wet  or 
stormy  weather  shelter  it  by  part  of  a  buffalo  robe,  which  com- 
pletely answers  all  the  purposes  of  a  surtout,  The  principal 
chief  of  the  tribe  is  hereditary;  but  from  their  constant  wars, 
they  have  adopted  the  wise  and  salutary  custom  of  electing,  as 
their  leader  in  battle,  that  warrior  in  whom  the  greatest  portion 
of  wisdom,  strength,  and  bravery  are  combined.  The  election 
takes  place  every  year ;  and  it  sometimes  occurs  that  the  general 
in  one  campaign  becomes  a  private  in  the  next.  This  "  war-chief," 
as  they  term  him,  has  no  authority  whatever  when  at  home,  and 
is  as  equally  amenable  as  any  of  the  tribe  to  the  hereditary  chief; 
but  when  the  warriors  sot  out  on  their  hunting  excursions  to  the 
buffalo  plains,  he  assumes  the  supreme  command,  which  he 
exercises  with  despotic  sway  until  their  reiurn.  He  carries  a 
long  whip,  with  a  thick  handle,  decorated  with  scalps  and  feathers, 
ana  generally  appoints  two  active  warriors  as  aides-dc-camv. 
On  their  advance  towards  the  enemy  he  always  takes  the  leaa ; 
and  on  their  return  he  brings  up  the  rear.     Great  regularity  is 

£  reserved  during  the  march ;  and  1  have  been  informed  by  Mr. 
f'Donald,  who  accompanied  some  of  these  war  parties  to  the 
field  of  action,  that  if  any  of  the  tribe  fell  out  of  the  ranks,  or 
committed  any  other  breach  of  discipline,  he  instantly  received 
a  flagellation  from  the  whip  of  the  chieftain.  He  always  acted 
with  the  most  perfect  impartiality,  and  would  punish  one  of  his 
subalterns  for  disobedience  of  orders  with  equal  severity  as  any 
other  offender.  Custom,  however,  joined  to  a  sense  of  pubhc 
duty,  had  reconciled  them  to  these  arbitrary  acts  of  power,  which 
the^  never  complained  of  or  attempted  to  resent.  After  the 
conclusion  of  the  campaign,  on  their  arrival  on  their  own  lands, 
his  authority  ceases ;  when  the  peace-chief  calls  all  the  tribe 
together,  and  they  proceed  to  a  new  election.  There  is  no 
canvassing,  caballing,  or  intriguing ;  and  should  the  last  leader 
be  superseded,  he  retires  from  office  with  apparent  indifference, 
and  without  betraying  any  symptoms  of  discontent.  The  fighting 
chief  at  this  period  had  been  five  times  re-elected.  He  was 
about  thirty-five  years  of  age,  and  had  killed  twenty  of  the  Black- 
feet  in  various  battles,  the  scalps  of  whom  were  suspended  in 


;,k 


•^ '-- 


THR   WAR-CHIEF. 


133 


triumphal  pride  from  a  pole  at  the  door  of  his  lodge.  Hii  wife 
had  been  captured  by  the  enemy  the  year  before,  and  her  lou 
made  a  deep  impression  on  him.  Ho  was  highly  respected  by 
all  the  warriors  for  his  superior  wisdom  und  bravery ;  a  coit- 
sciousness  of  which,  joined  to  the  lencth  of  time  he  had  been 
accustomed  to  cotnmand,  imparted  to  Ills  manners  a  degree  of 
dignity  which  we  never  remarked  in  any  other  Indian.  He 
would  not  take  a  second  wife ;  and  when  the  recollection  of  the 
one  he  had  lost  came  across  his  mind,  he  retired  into  the  deepest 
solitude  of  the  woods  to  indulge  his  sorrow,  where  some  of 
the  tribe  informed  us  they  oflcn  found  him  calling  on  her  spirit 
to  appear,  and  invoking  vengeance  on  her  conquerors.  When 
these  bursts  of  grief  subsided,  his  countenance  assumei  ..  tinge 
of  stern  melancholy,  strongly  indicating  the  mingled  emotions  of 
sorrow  and  unmitigated  hatred  of  the  Black-feet.  We  invited 
him  sometimes  to  the  fort,  upon  which  occasions  we  sympathized 
with  him  on  his  loss ;  but  at  the  same  time  acquainted  him  with 
the  manner  in  which  civilized  nations  made  war.  We  told  him 
that  warriors  only  were  made  prisoners,  who  were  never  tortured 
or  killed,  and  that  no  brave  white  man  would  ever  injure  a  female 
or  a  defenceless  man ;  that  if  such  a  custom  had  prevailed  among 
them,  he  would  now  by  the  exchange  of  prisoners  be  able  to 
recover  his  wife,  who  was  by  tlieir  barbarous  system  lost  to  him 
for  ever;  and  if  it  were  impossible  to  bring  about  >  peace  with 
their  enemies,  the  frightful  horrors  of  war  might  at  ^ast  be  con- 
siderably softened  by  adopting  the  practice  of  Europeans.  We 
added  that  he  had  now  a  glorious  opportunity  of  commencing 
the  career  of  magnanimity,  by  sending  home  uninjured  the  cap- 
tives he  had  made  during  the  last  campaign;  that  our  friends  on 
the  other  side  of  the  mountains  would  exert  their  influence  with 
the  Black-feet  to  induce  them  to  follow  his  example;  and  that 
ultimately  it  might  be  the  means  of  uniting  the  two  rival  nations 
in  the  bonds  of  peace.  lie  was  at  first  opposed  to  making  any 
advances ;  but  on  farther  pressing  he  consented  to  make  the  trial, 
provided  the  hereditary  chief  and  the  tribe  started  no  objections. 
On  quitting  us  he  made  use  of  the  following  words ;  "  My  white 
friends,  you  do  not  know  the  savage  nature  of  the  Black-feet ; 
they  hope  to  exterminate  our  tribe  ;  they  are  a  great  deal  more 
numerous  than  we  are ;  and  were  it  not  for  our  bravery,  their 
object  would  have  been  long  ago  achieved.  We  shall  now, 
according  to  your  wishes,  send  back  the  prisoners ;  but  remem- 
ber, I  tell  you,  that  they  will  laugh  at  the  interference  of  your 
relations  beyond  the  mountains,  and  never  spare  a  man,  woman, 
or  child,  that  they  can  take  of  our  nation.  Your  exertions  to 
aave  blood  show  you  are  good  people.    If  they  follow  oujr 


134 


PACirio  ovr.RTunE — cRnss*DnED  noo. 


.    I 


example,  wc  Himll  kill  no  moro  pritioncri ;  but  I  tell  you,  they 
will  lougli  at  you  and  call  you  fools." 

Wc  were  much  iilcuHod  at  Imvinff  carried  our  point  lo  far ; 
while  he,  true  to  his  word,  asscinbleu  the  elders  and  warriora, 
to  whom  he  rcprcsentud  the  subject  of  our  discourse,  and  after 
a  long  speech,  iidviacd  them  to  make  the  trial,  which  would 
please  their  white  friends,  and  show  their  readiness  to  avoid 
unnecessary  cruelty.  Such  un  unoxficcted  proposition  gave 
rise  to  an  animated  debate,  which  continued  for  some  time; 
but  being  supported  by  n  man  for  whom  they  entertained  lo 
much  rcHpect,  it  was  finally  carried  ;  and  it  was  determined  to 
send  home  the  Bhick-fcct  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  winter. 
We  undertook  to  furnish  them  with  horses  und  provisions  for 
their  journey,  or  to  pay  the  Flat-heads  a  fair  price  for  so  doing. 
This  wan  agreed  to,  und  about  thn  middle  of  March  the  prisoners 
took  their  d<.;parturc  tolerably  well  mounted,  and  with  dried 
meat  enough  to  bring  them  to  thuir  friends.  Mr.  M'Millan, 
who  had  passed  three  years  in  their  country,  and  was  acquainted 
with  their  language,  informed  them  of  the  exertions  we  had  used 
to  save  their  lives,  and  prevent  farther  repetitions  of  torture ; 
and  re(|uested  them  particularly  to  mention  the  circumstance  to 
their  countrymen,  in  order  thai  they  might  adopt  a  similar  pro- 
ceeding. We  olso  wrote  letters  by  them  to  the  gentlemen  in 
charge  of  the  different  establishments  at  Forts  des  Prairies, 
detailing  our  success,  and  impressing  on  them  the  necessity  of 
their  attempting  to  induce  the  Black-feet  in  their  vicinity  to 
follow  the  example  set  them  by  the  Flat-heads.  The  lands  of 
this  tribe  present  a  pleasing  diversity  of  woods  and  plains, 
valleys  and  mountains,  lakes  and  rivers.  Besides  the  animals 
already  mentioned,  there  are  abundance  of  beavers,  otters, 
martens,  wolves,  lynxes,  &c. 

The  wolves  of  this  district  are  very  large  and  daring;  and 
were  in  great  numbers  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  fort,  to 
which  they  often  approached  closely  for  the  purpose  of  carrying 
away  the  offals.  We  had  r.  fine  dog  of  mixed  breed,  whose 
sire  was  a  native  of  Newfoundland,  and  whose  dam  was  a  wolf, 
which  had  been  caught  young,  and  domesticated  by  Mr.  La 
Rocque,  at  Lac  la  Ronge,  on  the  English  River.  He  had  many 
rencounters  with  his  maternal  tribe,  m  which  he  was  generally 
worsted.  On  observing  a  wolf  near  the  fort,  he  darted  at  it 
with  great  courage  :  if  it  was  a  male,  he  fought  hard  ;  but  if  a 
female,  he  either  allowed  it  to  retreat  harmless,  or  commenced 
fondling  it.  He  sometimes  was  absent  for  a  week  or  ten  days ; 
and  on  his  return,  his  body  and  neck  appeared  gashed  With 
wounds  inflicted  by  the  tusks  of  his  male  rivals  in  theif  hltmtcnii 


rilARMACY — rOLI)    OATIIINO. 


105 


oncounteni  in  tlio  woocIh.  Ho  wm  n  noblo  nniriial,  Init  olwayi 
appeared  iiioro  ready  to  attack  a  wolf  than  a  lynx. 

Our  itock  of  flugar  and  niolaHscH  havinff  failed,  mto  were 
obliged  to  have  rucourHO  to  tliu  extract  of  Circh  to  aupply  the 
deficiency.  This  was  obtained  by  perforating  the  trunks  of  the 
birch-trees  in  diflerent  places.  Htnull  HJips  of  bark  were  then 
introduced  into  each  j)erforation,  and  underneath  kettles  were 
placed  to  receive  the  juice.  This  was  ailurward  trailed  down 
to  the  consistency  of  molasses,  und  was  used  witii  our  tea  aa  a 
substitute  for  sugar  :  it  is  a  bitter  sweet,  and  answered  its  pur- 
pose tolerably  well. 

The  Flat-heads  are  a  healthy  tribe,  and  subject  to  few  dis- 
eases. Common  fractures,  caused  by  an  occasional  pitch  off*  a 
horse,  or  a  fall  down  a  declivity  in  the  ardour  of  hunting,  are 
cured  by  tight  bundngcs  and  pieces  of  wood  liko  staves  placed 
longitudinally  around  the  |)art,  to  which  they  ore  secured  by 
leathern  thongs.  For  contusions  they  generally  bleed,  either  in 
the  temples,  urms,  wrists,  or  ankles,  with  pieces  of  sharp  flint, 
or  heads  of  arrows :  they  however  preferred  being  bled  with 
the  lancet,  and  frequently  brought  us  patients,  who  were  much 
pleased  with  that  mode  of  operation.  Very  little  snow  fell  after 
Christmas ;  but  the  cold  was  intense,  with  a  clear  atmosphere. 
I  experienced  some  acute  rheumatic  attacks  in  the  shoulders 
and  knees,  from  which  I  suHered  much  annoyance.  Au  old 
Indian  proposed  to  relieve  mo,  provided  I  consented  to  follow 
the  mode  of  cure  practised  by  him  in  similar  cases  on  the  young 
warriors  of  the  tribe.  On  inquiritig  the  method  he  inter.ded  to 
pursue,  he  replied  that  it  merely  consisted  in  getting  up  early 
every  morning  for  some  weeks,  und  plunging  into  the  river,  and 
to  leave  the  rest  to  him.  This  was  a  most  chilling  proposition, 
for  the  river  was  firmly  frozen,  and  an  opening  to  be  made  in 
the  ice  preparatory  to  each  immersion.  I  asked  him,  "  Would 
it  not  answer  equally  well  to  have  the  water  brought  to  my  bed- 
room ?"  But  he  shook  his  head,  and  replied,  he  was  surprised 
that  a  young  white  chief,  who  ought  to  be  wise,  should  ask  so 
foolish  a  question.  On  reflecting,  however,  that  rheumatism 
was  a  stranger  among  Indians,  while  numbers  of  our  people 
were  martyrs  to  it,  and,  above  all,  that  I  was  upwards  of^  three 
thousand  miles  from  any  professional  assistance,  I  determined 
to  adopt  the  disagreeable  expedient,  and  commenced  operaf  ions 
♦he  following  morning.  The  Indian  first  broke  a  hole  m  the  ic^ 
sufficiently  large  to  admit  us  both,  upon  which  he  made  a  r'gnal 
that  all  was  ready.  Enveloped  in  a  large  buffalo  robe,  I  pro- 
ceeded to  the  spot,  and  throwing  off  my  covering,  we  both 
jumped  into  the  frigid  orifice  together.  He  immediately  com- 
menced rubbing  my  shoulders,  back,  and  loins :  my  hair  in  the 


t  1 

1 

^   m 

'i 

ul 

f 

126 


MKDICAL   TREATMENT — BELIEF. 


fffl 


,'^ 


^■! 


\\, 


mean  time  became  ornamented  wiih  icicles;  and  while  the  lower 
joints  were  undergoing  their  friction,  my  luce,  neck,  and  shoul- 
ders were  encased  in  a  thin  covering  of  ice.  On  getting 
released  I  rolled  a  blanket  about  me,  and  ran  back  to  the  bed- 
room, in  which  I  had  previously  ordered  a  good  fire,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  I  experienced  a  warm  glow  all  over  my  body. 
Chilling  and  disagreeable  as  these  matinal  ablutions  were,  yet, 
as  I  found  them  so  beneficial,  I  continued  them  for  twenty-five 
days,  at  the  expiration  of  which  my  physician  was  pleaiied  to 
say  that  no  more  were  necessary,  and  that  I  had  done  my  duty 
like  a  wise  man.  I  was  never  after  troubled  with  a  rheumatic 
pain !  One  of  our  old  Canadians,  who  had  been  labouring 
many  years  under  a  chronic  rheumatism,  asked  the  Indian  if  he 
could  cure  him  in  the  same  manner :  the  latter  replied  it  was 
impossible,  but  that  he  would  try  another  process.  He  accord- 
ingly constructed  the  skeleton  of  a  hut  about  four  and  a  half 
feet  high  and  three  broad,  in  shape  like  a  beehive,  which  he 
c-overed  with  deer-skins.  He  then  heated  some  stones  in  an 
adjoining  fire,  and  having  placed  the  patient  insico  in  a  state  of 
nudity,  the  hot  stones  were  thrown  in,  and  water  poured  on 
them :  the  entrance  was  then  quickly  closed,  and  the  man  kept 
in  for  some  time  until  he  begged  to  be  released,  alleging  that  he 
was  nearly  suffocated.  On  coming  out  he  was  in  a  state  of 
profuse  perspiration.  The  Indian  ordered  him  to  be  imme- 
diately enveloped  in  blankets  and  conveyed  to  bed.  This  ope- 
ration was  repeated  several  times,  and  although  it  did  not  effect 
a  radical  cure,  the  violence  of  the  pains  was  so  far  abated  as  to 
permit  the  patient  to  follow  his  ordinary  business,  and  to  enjoy 
his  sleep  in  comparative  ease. 

The  Flat-heads  believe  in  the  existence  of  a  good  and  evil 
spirit,  and  consequently  in  a  future  state  of  rewards  and  punish- 
ments. They  hold,  that  after  death  the  good  Indian  goes  to  a 
country  in  which  there  will  be  perpetual  summer ;  that  he  will 
meet  his  wife  and  children ;  that  the  rivers  will  abound  with 
fish,  and  the  plains  with  the  much-loved  buffalo ;  and  that  he 
will  spend  his  time  in  hunting  and  fishing,  free  from  the  terrors 
of  war,  or  the  apprehensions  of  cold  or  famine.  The  bad  man, 
they  believe,  will  go  to  a  place  covered  with  eternal  snow ;  that 
he  will  always  be  shivering  with  cold,  and  will  see  fires  at  a 
distance  which  he  cannot  enjoy ;  water  which  he  cannot  pro- 
cure to  quench  his  thirst,  and  buffalo  and  deer  which  he  cannot 
kill  to  appease  his  hunger.  An  impenetrable  wood,  full  of 
wolves,  panthers,  and  serpents,  separates  these  "  shrinking 
slaves  of  winter"  from  their  more  fortunate  brethren  in  the 
"  meadows  of  ease."  Their  punishment  is  not  however  eternal, 
and  according  to  the  different  shades  of  their  crimes  they  are 


'r 


li  ' 


BEAVERS. 


127 


sooner  or  later  emancipated,  and  permitted  to  join  their  friends 
in  the  Elysian  fields. 

Their  code  of  morality,  although  short,  is  comprehensive. 
They  say  that  honesty,  bravery,  love  of  truth,  attention  to 
parents,  obedience  to  their  chiefs,  and  affection  for  their  wives 
and  children,  are  the  principal  virtues  which  entitle  them  to  the 
place  of  happiness,  while  the  opposite  vices  condemn  them  to 
that  of  misery.  They  have  a  curious  tradition  with  respect  to 
beavers.  They  firmly  believe  that  these  animals  are  a  fallen 
race  of  Indians,  who,  in  consequence  of  their  wickedness,  vexed 
the  Gk)od  Spirit,  and  were  condemned  by  him  to  their  present 
shape ;  but  that  in  due  time  they  will  be  restored  to  their 
humanity.  They  allege  that  he  beavers  have  the  powers  of 
speech;  and  that  they  have  heard  them  talk  with  each  other, 
and  seen  them  sitting  in  council  on  an  offending  member. 

The  lovers  of  natural  history  are  already  well  acquainted 
with  the  surprising  sagacity  of  these  wonderful  animals ;  with 
their  dexterity  in  cutting  down  trees,  their  skill  in  constructing 
their  houses,  and  their  foresight  in  collecting  and  storing  pro< 
visions  sufficient  to  last  them  during  the  winter  months:  but 
few  are  aware,  I  should  imagine,  of  a  remarkable  custom  among 
them,  which,  more  than  any  other,  confirms  the  Indians  in  be- 
lieving them  a  fallen  race.  Towards  the  latter  end  of  autumn 
a  certain  number,  varying  from  twenty  to  thirty,  assemble  for 
the  purpose  of  building  their  winter  habitations.  They  imme- 
diately commence  cutting  down  trees  ;  and  nothing  can  be  more 
wonderful  than  the  skill  and  patience  which  they  manifest  in 
this  laborious  undertaking ;  to  see  them  anxiously  looking  up, 
watching  the  leaning  of  the  tree  when  the  trunk  is  nearly 
severed,  and,  when  its  creaking  announces  its  approaching  fall, 
to  observe  them  scampering  off  in  all  directions  to  avoid  being 
crushed. 

When  the  tree  is  prostrate  they  quickly  strip  it  of  its  branches; 
after  which,  with  their  dental  chisels,  they  divide  the  trunk  into 
several  pieces  of  equal  lengths,  which  they  roll  to  the  rivulet 
across  which  they  intend  to  erect  their  house.  Two  or  three 
old  ones  generally  superintend  the  others  ;  and  it  is  no  unusual 
sight  to  see  them  beating  those  who  exhibit  any  symptoms  of 
laziness.  Should,  however,  any  fellow  be  incorrigible,  and 
persist  in  refusing  to  work,  he  is  driven  unanimously  by  the 
whole  tribe  to  seek  shelter  and  provisions  elsewhere.  These 
outlaws  are  therefore  obliged  to  pass  a  miserable  vv  inter,  half- 
starved  in  a  burrow  on  the  banks  of  some  stream,  where  they 
are  easily  trapped.  The  Indians  call  them  "  lazy  beaver,"  and 
their  fur  is  not  half  so  valuable  as  that  of  the  other  animals, 
whose  persevering  indr^uy  and  pretxn/ance  secure  them  pro- 


Ji 


138 


INDIAN   DESIGNATIONS— PIERRE   MICHEL. 


;*i 


It:  I 


visions   and  a  comfortable    shelter   during   the    severity  of 
winter. 

I  could  not  discover  why  the  Black-feet  and  Flat-heads  re- 
ceived their  respective  designations ;  for  the  feet  of  the  former 
are  no  more  inclined  to  sable  than  any  other  part  of  the  body, 
while  the  heads  of  the  latter  possess  their  fair  proportion  of 
rotundity.  Indeed  it  is  only  below  the  falls  and  rapids  that  real 
flat-heads  appear,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  that  they 
flourish  most  supernaturally. 

Pierre  Michel,  the  hunter,  was  the  son  of  a  respectable 
Canadian  by  an  Indian  mother.  He  also  held  the  situation  of 
interpreter,  and  was  a  most  valuable  servant  of  the  Company. 
Michel  accompanied  the  Flat-heads  on  two  of  their  war  cam- 
paigns, and  by  his  unerring  aim  and  undaunted  bravery  won  the 
affection  of  the  whole  tribe.  The  war-chief  in  particular  paid 
great  attention  to  his  opinion,  and  consulted  him  in  any  diflicult 
matter.  Michel  wanted  a  wife ;  and  having  succeeded  in 
gaining  the  affections  of  a  handsome  girl  about  sixteen  years 
of  age,  and  niece  to  the  hereditary  chieftain,  he  made  a  formal 
proposal  for  her.  A  council  was  thereupon  called,  at  which  her 
uncle  presided,  to  take  Michel's  offer  into  consideration.  One 
young  warrior  loved  her  ardently,  and  had  obtained  a  previous 
promise  from  her  mother  that  she  should  be  his.  He,  therefore, 
with  all  his  relations,  strongly  opposed  her  union  with  Pierre,  and 
urged  his  own  claims,  which  had  been  sanctioned  by  her  mother. 
The  war-chief  asked  him  if  she  had  ever  promised  to  become 
his  w'fe  :  he  replied  in  the  negative.  The  chief  then  addressed 
the  council,  and  particularly  the  lover,  in  favour  of  Michel's 
suit ;  f>ointing  out  the  great  services  he  had  rendered  the  tribe 
by  his  bravery,  and  dwelling  strongly  on  the  policy  of  uniting 
him  more  firmly  to  their  interests  by  consenting  to  the  proposed 
marriage,  which  he  said  would  for  ever  make  him  as  one  of  their 
brothers.  His  influence  predominated,  and  the  unsuccessful 
rival  immediately  afler  shook  hands  with  Michel,  and  told  the 
young  woman,  as  he  could  not  be  her  husband,  he  hoped  she 
would  always  regard  him  as  a  brother.  This  she  readily  pro- 
mised to  do,  and  so  ended  the  opposition.  The  happy  Pierre 
presented  a  gun  to  her  uncle,  some  cloth,  calico,  and  ornaments 
to  her  female  relatives ;  with  a  pistol  and  handsome  dagger  to 
his  friend.  He  proceeded  in  the  evening  to  the  chiefs  lodge, 
where  a  number  of  her  friends  had  assembled  to  smoke.  Here 
she  received  a  lecture  from  the  old  man,  her  mother,  and  a  few 
other  ancients,  on  her  duty  as  a  wife  and  mother.  They  strongly 
exhorted  her  to  be  chaste,  obedient,  industrious,  and  silent ;  and 
when  absent  with  her  husband  among  other  tribes,  always  to 
stay  at  home,  and  have  no  intercourse  with  strange  Indians. 


•  t  ■• 


HARRIAQB    RITES — JOURNEY    RENEAVEU. 


129 


of 


She  then  retired  with  the  old  women  to  an  adjoining  hut,  where 
she  underwent  an  ablution,  and  bade  adieu  to  her  leathern 
chemise,  the  place  of  which  was  supplied  by  one  of  gingham, 
to  which  was  added  a  calico  and  green  cloth  petticoiit,  and  a 
gown  of  blue  cloth.  After  this  was  over,  she  was.^  conducted 
Back  to  her  uncle's  lodge,  when  she  received  sc-me  farther 
advice  as  to  her  future  conduct.  A  procession  was  then 
formed  by  the  two  chiefs,  and  several  warriors  carrying  blazing 
flambeaux  of  cedar,  to  convey  the  bride  and  her  husband  to  the 
fort.  They  began  singing  war-songs  in  praise  of  Michel's 
bravery,  and  of  their  triumphs  over  the  Black-feet.  She  was 
surrounded  by  a  group  of  young  and  old  women,  some  of  whom 
were  rejoicing,  and  others  crying.  The  men  moved  on  first,  in  a 
slow  solemn  pace,  still  chanting  their  warlike  epithalamium.  The 
women  followed  at  a  short  distance  ;  and  when  the  whole  party 
arrived  in  front  of  the  fort,  they  formed  a  circle,  and  commenced 
dancing  and  singing,  which  they  kept  up  about  twenty  minutes. 
After  this  the  calumet  of  peace  went  round  once  more,  and 
when  the  smoke  of  the  last  whiff'  had  disappeared,  Michel  shook 
hands  with  his  late  rival,  embraced  the  chiefs,  and  conducted  his 
bride  to  his  room.  While  I  remained  in  the  country  they  lived 
happily  together ;  and  as  I  mean  to  finish  this  chapter  here,  I 
may  as  well  state  that  he  was  the  only  person  of  our  party  to 
whom  the  Flat-heads  would  give  one  of  their  women  in  marriage. 
Several  of  our  men  made  applications,  but  were  always  refused. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Effect  of  snow  on  the  eyes — Description  of  a  winter  at  Oakinagan — News  from 
thesea — Capture  of  Astoria  by  the  Racoon  sloop  of  war — Offer  of  Chinooks 
to  cut  off  the  British — A  party  attacked  ;  Mr.  Stewart  wounded  ;  two  In- 
dians killtd — Arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt — Shipwreck  of  the  Lark — Massacre  of 
Mr.  Road  and  eight  of  his  men — Extraordinary  escape  of  Dorrien's  widow 
and  children. 

On  the  4th  of  April,  1814,  we  took  leave  of  our  Flat-head 
friends,  on  our  way  to  Spokan  House,  while  they  proceeded  to 
make  preparations  for  the  ensuing  summer's  campaign.  We 
pursued  our  route  partly  by  land,  and  partly  by  water.  In 
some  places  the  snow  had  entirely  disappeared  ;  but  in  others, 
particularly  the  dense  forests,  it  was  covered  with  a  slight  in- 
crustation. 

The  sun  was  very  hot,  and  where  its  rays  were  reflected  from 


130 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


■   I-  r 


the  congealed,  or  partly  dissolved  masses  of  snow,  it  caused  a 
very  painful  sensation  in  the  eyes  of  all,  and  nearly  blinded  half 
the  party.  My  sight  was  partially  injured,  and  my  nose,  lips, 
and  cheeks  so  severely  scorched,  that  I  did  not  recover  from 
the  effects  for  more  than  a  month  after.  We  arrived  safely  at 
Spokan  House  on  the  15th,  where  I  found  a  couple  of  letters 
which  had  been  written  to  me  by  my  friend  M'Gillivray  from 
Oakinagan,  at  which  place  ha  had  'vintered  ;  but  which,  from 
''  ■'nt  of  a  conveyance,  could  not  be  forwarded  to  me  from 
Spokan.  Although  accustomed  to  the  style  of  living  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  mountains,  and  well  acquainted  with  Indians, 
this  was  his  first  winter  on  the  Columbia ;  and  for  the  information 
of  some  of  my  readers,  I  shall  give  an  extract  from  one  of  his 
letters;  viz. 

"  Oakinagan,  Feb.  1814. 

"  This  is  a  horribly  dull  place.    Here  I  have  been,  since  you 
parted  from  us,  perfectly  solus.    My  men,  half  Canadians  and 
half  Sandwich  Islanders.     The  library  wretched,  and  no  chance 
of  my  own  books  till  next  year,  when  the  Athabasca  men  cross 
the  mountains.     If  you,  or  my  friends  at  Spokan,  do  not  send 
me  a  few  volumes,  I  shall  absolutely  die  of  ennui.     The  Indians 
here  are  incontestably  the  most  indolent  rascals  I  ever  met ; 
and  I  assure  you  it  requires  no  small  degree  of  authority,  with 
the  few  men  I  have,  to  keep  them  in  order.     Montignier  left  me 
on  the  23d  of  December  to  proceed  to  Mr.  M'Donald    at 
Kamloops.     On  his  way  he  was  attacked  by  the  Indians  at 
Oakinagan  Lake,  and  robbed  of  p  number  of  his  horses.     The 
natives  in  that  quarter  seem  to  entertain  no  great  friendship  for 
us,  as  this  is  not  their  first  attempt  to  trespass  on  our  good-nature. 
My  two  Canadians  were  out  hunting  at  the  period  of  the  rob- 
bery ;  and  the  whole  of  my  household  troops  merely  consisted 
of  Bonaparte !    Washington !!  and  Cesar !!!  *     Great  nam  s, 
you  will  say  ;  but  I  must  confess,  that  much  as  I  think  of  the 
two  great  moderns,  and  highly  as  I  respect  the  memory  of  the 
immortal  Julius,  among  these  thieving  scoundrels  'a  rose,  by  any 
■^ther  name,  would  smell  as  sweet.'    The  snow  is  between  two 
and  three  feet  deep,  and  my  trio  of  Owhyee  generals  find  a 
sensible  difference  between  such  hyperborean  weather  and  the 
pleasing  sunshine  r  f  their  own  tropical  paradise.     Poor  fellows ! 
they  are  not  adapted  for  these  latitudes,  and  I  heartily  wish 
they  were  at  home  in  their  own  sweet  islands,  and  sporting  in 
the  '  blue  summer  ocean'  that  surrounds  them. 


1':'+ 


*  The  individuals  bearing  these  formidable  names  were  merely  three  uni ophii- 
ticited  native!  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 


t 


AJtRIVAI.3 — NAVAL  AFFAIRS. 


131 


lophit- 


*•  I  have  not  as  yet  made  a  pack  of  beaver.  The  lazy  Indians 
won't  work ;  and  as  for  the  emperor,  president,  and  dictator, 
they  know  as  much  about  trapping  as  the  monks  of  La  Trajrpe. 
I  have  hitherto  principally  subsisted  on  horse-flesh.  I  cannot 
say  it  agrees  with  me,  for  it  nearly  produced  a  dysentery.  I 
have  had  plenty  of  pork,  rice,  arrow-root,  flour,  taro-root,  tea, 
and  coflTee ;  no  sugar.  With  such  a  variety  of  bonnes  choses 
you  will  say  1  ought  not  to  complain  ;  but  want  of  society  has 
destroyed  my  relish  for  luxuries,  and  the  only  articles  I  taste 
above  par  are  souchong  and  molasses.  What  a  contrast  between 
the  manner  I  spent  last  year  and  this  !  In  the  first,  with  all  the 
pride  of  a  newly-created  subaltern,  occasionally  fighting  the 
Yan\i>iea,  a  la  mode  du  pays ;  and  anon,  sporting  my  silver  wings 
betbre  some  admiring  paysanne  along  the  frontiers.  Then  what 
a  glorious  winter  in  Montreal,  with  captured  Jonathans,  trium- 
phant Britons,  astonished  Indians,  gaping  habitans,  agitated 
beauties,  balls,  routs,  dinners,  suppers ;  parades,  drums  beating, 
colours  flying,  with  all  the  other  '  pride,  pomp,  and  circumstance 
of  glorious  war !' — but '  Othel  o's  occupation's  gone  i'  and  here 
I  am,  with  a  shivering  guard  of  poor  islanders,  buried  in  snow, 
sipping  molasses,  smoking  tobacco,  and  masticating  horse-flesh  I 
But  I  am  sick  of  the  contrast." 

On  the  24th  of  April  Messrs.  David  Stuart  and  Clarke  arrived 
on  horseback  with  three  men.  They  informed  us  that  they  had 
left  Fort  George  on  the  4th,  in  company  with  Mr.  John  George 
M'Tavish  and  the  gentlemen  lately  belonging  to  the  Pacific  Fur 
Company,  who  were  British  subjects,  and  who  were  on  their 
return  home  to  Canada.  They  left  the  main  party  about  a  day's 
march  above  Lewis  River,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  provi- 
sions at  Spokan,  with  which  they  were  to  meet  the  canoes  at  the 
Kettle  Fails,  and  from  thence  proceed  up  the  Columbia  on  their 
route  to  Canada.  The  intelligence  brought  by  these  gentlemen 
was  by  no  means  of  a  pleasing  description.  At  the  period  of 
their  departure  from  the  sea  the  Isaac  Tod  had  not  arrived,  nor 
had  any  accounts  been  received  of  her.  That  vessel  sailed  from 
London  in  March,  1813,  in  company  with  the  Phoebe  frigate  and 
the  Cherub  and  Racoon  sloops  of  war.  They  arrived  safe  at 
Rio  Janeiro,  and  thence  proceeded  round  Cape  Horn  to  the 
Pacific,  having  previously  made  arrangements  to  meet  at  Juan 
Fernandez.  The  three  men-of-war  reached  the  latter  island  after 
encountering  dreadful  gales  about  the  Cape.  They  waited  here 
some  time  for  the  arrival  of  the  Isaac  Tod ;  but  as  she  did  not 
make  her  appearance,  Commodore  Hillier  did  not  deem  it  pru- 
dent to  remain  any  longer  inactive.  He,  therefore,  in  company 
with  the  Cherub,  proceeded  in  search  of  Commodore  Porter, 


^ 


I 


132 


ABRIVAIi   OF  THE   RACOON — PROPOSED   AliUANCB. 


who,  in  the  American  frigate  Essex,  was  clearing  the  South  Sea 
of  English  whalers,  and  inflicting  other  injuries  of  a  serious 
nature  on  our  commerce.* 

At  the  same  tiiue  he  ordered  Captain  Black  in  the  Racoon  to 
proceed  direct  to  the  Columbia,  for  the  purpose  of  destroying 
the  American  establishment  at  Astoria.  The  Racoon  arrived  at 
the  Columbia  on  the  1st  of  December,  1813.  The  surprise  and 
disappointment  of  Captain  Black  and  his  officers  were  extreme 
on  learning  the  arrangement  that  had  taken  place  between  the 
two  companies,  by  which  the  establishment  had  become  British 
property.  They  had  calculated  on  obtaining  a  splendid  prize  by 
the  capture  of  Astoria,  the  strength  and  importance  of  which 
had  been  much  magnified  if  and  the  contracting  parties  were 
therefore  fortunate  in  having  closed  their  bargain  previous  to  the 
arrival  of  the  Racoon.  ;' 

Captain  Black,  however,  took  possession  of  Astoria  in  the  name 
of  his  Britannic  Majesty,  and  rebaptised  it  by  the  name  of"  Fort 
George."  He  also  insisted  on  having  an  inventory  taken  of  the 
valuable  stock  of  furs,  and  all  other  property  purchased  from  the 
American  company,  with  a  view  to  the  adoption  of  ulterior  pro- 
ceedings in  England  for  the  recovery  of  the  value  from  the 
North-west  Company;  but  he  subsequently  relinquished  this 
idea,  and  we  heard  no  more  about  his  claims.  The  Indians  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  knew  well  that  Great  Britain  and 
America  were  distinct  nations,  and  that  they  were  then  at  war, 
but  were  ignorant  of  the  arrangement  made  between  Messrs. 
M'Dougall  and  M'Tavish,  the  former  of  whom  still  continued  as 
nominal  chief  at  the  fort.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Racoon,  which 
they  quickly  discovered  to  be  one  of  "  King  George's  fighting 
ships,"  they  repaired  armed  to  the  fort,  and  requested  an  audi- 
ence of  Mr.  M'Dougall.  He  was  somewhat  surprised  at  their 
numbers  and  warlike  appearance,  and  demanded  the  object  of 
such  an  unusual  visit.  Comcomly,  the  principal  chief  of  the 
Ghinooks,  thereupon  addressed  him  in  a  long  soeech ;  in  the 
course  of  which  he  said  that  King  George  had  sent  a  ship  full 
of  warriors,  and  loaded  with  nothing  but  big  guns,  to  take  the 
Americans,  and  make  them  all  slaves ;  and  that  as  they  (the 
Americans)  were  the  first  whi:e  men  who  settled  in  their  countiy, 
and  treated  the  Indians  like  good  relations,  they  had  resolved  to 
defend  them  from  King  George's  warriors,  and  were  now  ready 
to  conceal  themselves  in  the  woods  close  to  the  wharf,  from 


Mill 


*  He  shortly  after  met  the  Essex  at  Valparaiso,  and  after  a  severe  contest 
captured  her.     She  i»  now  the  convict  hulk  at  Kingatown  near  Dublin. 

t  On  lookinp  at  tho  wooden  fortifications,  Captain  Black  exclaimed,  "  Is  this 
the  fort  about  which  I  have  heard  bo  much  ?  0 — n  me,  but  I'd  batter  it  down 
in  two  hours  with  a  four-pounder !" 


audi- 
their 
ect  of 
the 
the 
full 
e  the 
(the 
intiy, 
ed  to 
eady 
from 

lonteat 

Ib  this 
down 


:>VEIITURE8   REJECTED — ATTACK — CONTEST. 


133 


whence  they  would  be  able  with  their  guns  and  arrows  to  shoot 
all  the  men  that  should  attempt  to  land  irom  the  English  boats ; 
while  the  people  in  the  fort  could  fire  at  them  with  their  big  guns 
and  rifles.  This  proposition  was  uttered  with  an  earnestness  of 
manner  that  admitted  no  doubt  of  its  sincerity:  two  armed 
boats  from  the  Racoon  were  approaching ;  and  had  the  people 
in  the  fort  felt  disposed  to  accede  to  the. wishes  of  the  Indians, 
every  man  in  them  would  have  been  destroyed  by  an  invisible 
enemy.  Mr.  M'Dougall  thanked  them  for  their  friendly  offer; 
but  added  that,  notwithstanding  the  nations  were  at  war,  the 
people  in  the  boats  would  not  injure  him  or  any  of  his  people, 
and  therefore  requested  them  to  throw  by  their  war-shirts  and 
arms,  and  receive  the  strangers  as  their  friends.  They  at  first 
seemed  astonished  at  this  answer ;  but  on  assuring  them  in  the 
most  positive  manner  that  he  was  under  no  apprehensions,  they 
consented  to  give  up  their  weapons  for  a  few  days.  They  after- 
ward declared  they  were  sorry  for  having  complied  with  Mr. 
M'DougalFs  wishes ;  for  when  they  observed  Captain  Black,  sur- 
rounded by  his  officers  and  marines,  break  the  bottle  of  port  on 
the  flag-staff,  and  hoist  the  British  ensign  after  changing  the  name 
of  the  fort,  they  remarked  that,  however  we  might  wish  to  con- 
ceal the  fact,  the  Americans  were  undoubtedly  made  slaves ;  and 
they  were  not  convinced  of  their  mistake  until  the  sloop  of  war 
had  departed  without  taking  any  prisoners. 

Mr.  Stuart  further  informed  us,  that  a  party  of  seventeen  men, 
under  the  command  of  Messrs.  James  Keith  and  Alexander 
Stewart,  which  had  left  Fort  George  early  in  January  with 
merchandise  for  the  interior,  had  been  attacked  by  the  natives 
between  the  first  and  second  portages  of  the  first  rapids ;  that 
Mr.  Stewarf  was  dangerously  wounded  by  two  arrows,  one  of 
which  entered  his  left  shoulder,  and  the  other  penetrated  between 
his  ribs  close  to  the  heart,  notwithstanding  which  he  succeeded 
in  shooting  two  of  the  savages  dead.  By  this  time  some  of  the 
men  came  to  his  assistance,  and  for  a  while  succeeded  in  keeping 
back  their  assailants,  who  every  moment  became  more  daring, 
and  evinced  not  merely  a  determination  to  revenge  the  death  of 
their  countrymen,  but  to  seize  and  carry  away  all  the  merchan- 
dise in  the  portage.  Mr.  Keith  having  observed  a  large 
reinforcement  of  the  savages  from  the  opposite  side  approach  in 
their  war-canoes,  to  join  those  by  whom  Mr.  Stewart  was 
surrounded,  and  seeing  that  gentleman's  wounds  bleeding  pro- 
fiisely,  felt  that  it  would  have  been  foolish  obstinacy,  and  would 
have  produced  an  unnecessary  sacrifice  of  lives  to  remain  longer 
in  such  a  dangerous  situation.  He  therefore  determined  to 
abandon  the  goods;  and  having  embarked  Mr.  Stewart,  the 
whole  party  pushed  off  in  one  canoe,  leaving  the  other,  with  all 


134 


WARLIKE   EXPEDITION — STRATAGEM. 


■*■ 


the  property,  to  the  mercy  of  the  Indians.  The  latter  were  lo 
overjoyed  at  becoming  masters  of  such  an  unexpected  quantity 
of  plunder,  that  they  allowed  the  party  to  effect  their  retreat 
unmolested;  and  on  the  second  day  the  canoe  reached  Fort 
George. 

Among  the  goods  thus  abandoned  were  upwards  of  fifly  guns, 
and  a  considerable  quantity  of  ammunition,  which,  if  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  hands  of  the  savages,  might  have  been  turned 
against  us  on  a  future  occasion ;  and  as  this  was  the  first  attack 
which  had  proved  successful,  the  proprietors  at  once  determined 
not  to  allow  it  to  pass  with  impunity.  They  accordingly  sent 
Mr.  Franchere  to  the  principal  friendly  chiefs  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  fort  for  the  purpose  of  acquainting  them  with  the  late  occur- 
rence, and  inviting  them  to  join  our  people  in  their  intended 
expedition  against  the  enemy.  They  readily  consented,  and  on 
the  following  morning  a  brigade  of  six  canoes,  containing  nixty- 
two  men,  under  the  command  of  Messrs.  M'Tavish,  Keith, 
Franchere,  Matthews,  &c.  took  their  departure  from  Fort  George. 

Having  no  lading,  they  quickly  reached  the  rapids.  Every 
thing  there  appeared  hostile.  The  warriors  lined  the  beach  at 
different  places  well  armed,  and  the  old  men,  women,  and  children 
were  invisible.  A  council  of  war  was  immediately  held,  at  which 
two  chiefs  of  the  Clatsops  (one  of  whom  was  an  old  female)  were 
present.  They  advised  the  gentlemen  to  assume  the  appearance 
of  friendship ;  and  afler  entering  into  a  parley  with  the  natives, 
and  inviting  them  to  smoke,  to  seize  one  of  their  chiefs,  and 
detain  him  as  a  hostage  until  the  property  should  be  restored. 
This  advice  was  followed,  and  succeeded  to  perfection.  Having 
by  some  coaxing,  and  repeated  offers  of  the  calumet,  collected 
a  number  of  the  natives  about  them,  to  whom  they  made  triflins 
presents  of  tobacco,  they  were  at  length  joined  by  the  principal 
chief  of  the  place,  who  had  for  some  time  cautiously  kept  out  of 
view.  He  was  instantly  seized,  bound  hand  and  foot,  ana  thrown 
into  a  tent,  with  two  men  to  guard  him  armed  with  drawn 
swords.  The  others  were  then  sent  away,  with  directions  to 
acquaint  their  countrymen  of  their  chief's  captivity,  and  were 
told  that  if  the  entire  property  was  not  forthwith  restored,  he 
should  be  put  to  death.  This  had  the  desired  effect,  and  shortly 
afler  all  the  guns,  part  of  the  kettles,  and  nearly  one  half  of  the 
other  goods  were  brought  back.  They  declared  they  could  not 
recover  any  more,  and  asked  our  gentlemen,  "  would  they  not 
allow  them  any  thing  to  place  over  the  dead  bodies  of  their  two 
relations,  who  had  been  killed  by  Mr.  Stewart  ?" 

The  most  important  object  of  the  expedition  having  been  thus 
attained  without  bloodshed,  and  as  the  aggressors  had  been  pretty 
severely  punished  in  the  first  instance,  the  party  deemed  it  both 


>(i  ' 


SHIPWRECK   or  THI   LARK. 


135 


humane  and  prudent  to  rest  satisfied  with  what  they  had  recov- 
ered. They  also  felt  that  an  unnecessary  waste  of  human  blood 
inig[ht  prove  ultintately  prejudicial  to  their  own  interests,  by 
raising  up  a  combined  force  of  natives,  against  whom  their  limited 
numbers  would  find  it  impossible  to  contend.     They  therefore 

gave  the  chief  his  liberty,  and  presented  him  with  a  flag,  telling 
im  at  the  same  time,  that  whenever  that  was  presented  to  them 
unfurled  they  would  consider  it  as  a  sign  of  friendship ;  but  that 
if  any  of  his  tribe  ever  approached  them  without  displaying  this 
emblem  of  peace,  it  would  be  taken  as  a  symptom  of  hostility, 
and  treated  as  such.  The  chief  promised  faithfully  to  abide  by 
this  engagement,  and  the  parties  then  separated. 

Mr.  Hunt,  late  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  arrived  at  Fort 
George  early  in  February  this  year,  in  a  brig  which  he  had  pur- 
chased at  the  Sandwich  Islands.  When  the  Beaver  had  left  the 
Columbia,  this  gentleman  embarked  in  her  on  a  trading  voyage 
to  the  northward,  which  proved  very  successful.  At  the  ter- 
mination of  her  northern  trip  the  season  was  too  far  advanced  to 
permit  her  returning  to  the  Columbia,  in  consequence  of  which 
Mr.  Hunt  sent  her  on  to  Canton,  and  embarked  on  board  an 
American  trading  vessel  on  the  coast.  Shortly  after,  the  unwel- 
come intelligence  of  the  war  reached  him  ;  and  finding  no  vessel 
bound  for  the  Columbia,  he  proceeded  in  the  trader  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands.  He  did  not  remain  long  here,  when  he 
re-embarked  on  board  another  trader,  and  after  traversing  an 
immense  space  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  in  the  course  of  whidi  he 
encountered  many  dangers,  returned  again  to  the  islands.  At 
Whoahoo  he  purchased  a  brig  called  the  Pedler,  and  was  pre- 

Earing  to  come  in  her  to  the  Columbia,  when  he  was  informed 
y  some  of  the  natives  that  an  American  vessel  had  been  wrecked 
on  the  island  of  Tahoorowa.  He  instantly  repaired  thither,  and 
found  Captain  Northrop,  late  commander  of  the  ship  Lark,  with 
several  of^his  crew,  all  in  a  state  of  great  destitution.  The  Lark 
had  been  despatched  from  New- York  by  Mr.  Astor,  frieghted 
with  provisions  and  merchandise  for  the  establishment  at  the 
Columbia.  After  escaping  various  British  cruizers,  she  made  an 
excellent  passage,  until  she  arrived  within  about  three  hundred 
miles  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  when  a  sudden  squall  threw  her 
on  her  beam  ends.  By  this  unfortunate  accident  the  second 
mate  and  four  men  perished.  The  captain,  hovever,  and  the 
rest  of  the  crew,  by  cutting  away  the  masts,  succeeded  in  righting 
her;  but  she  was  completely  water-k)gged.  With  much  difficulty 
they  hoisted  a  sail  on  a  small  jury-foremast.  They  fortunately 
got  out  of  the  cabin  a  box  containing  a  few  dozen  of  wine ;  ot> 
which,  with  the  raw  flesh  of  a  shark  they  had  caught,  they  sup- 
ported nature  thirteen  days !    At  the  end  of  this  period  the 


136 


MASSACRE   OF    MR.    niSAD  8    PARTV. 


■€i 


trade-winds,  which  hntl  been  for  some  lime  favourable,  drove  the 
vessel  on  the  rocky  coast  of  Talioorowa,  where  she  went  to 
pieces.  The  captain  and  liis  surviving  crew  were  saved  and 
kindly  treated  by  the  natives,  who  however  plundered  the  wreck 
of  all  the  property  they  could  find. 

Mr.  Hunt  took  Capt.  Nortliron  and  his  men  on  board  the  brig, 
and  sailed  forthwith  for  the  Columbia,  which  he  reached  in  the 
beginning  of  February.  Being  ignorant  of  the  events  that  had 
occurred  during  his  absence,  he  was  confounded  at  the  intelli- 
gence he  received  ;  and  censured  in  strong  terms  the  precipi- 
tate manner  in  which  the  sale  had  been  effected.  It  was,  how- 
ever, irrevocable,  and  he  was  obliged  to  submit. 

Having  uo  farther  business  at  Fort  George,  Mr.  Hunt  deter- 
mined on  returning  to  the  United  States  without  loss  of  time. 
He  took  on  hf^'  .d  such  American  citizens  as  preferred  returning 
home  by  sea  to  crossing  the  continent,  and  after  rather  a  tedious 
voyage  they  all  arrived  safely  at  New-York.* 

We  also  learned  from  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clarke  the  follow- 
ing melancholy  intelligence  : — On  their  way  up,  a  few  miles 
above  the  Wallah  Wallah  river,  they  were  followed  by  some  In- 
dian canoes,  from  one  of  which  a  voice  hailed  them  in  French, 
and  requested  them  to  stop.  They  accordingly  put  ashore,  and 
were  joined  by  the  Indians,  among  whom  they  were  surprised 
to  find  the  widow  of  Pierre  Dorrien  (a  half-bred  hunter,  who 
had  accompanied  Mr.  Read  to  the  country  of  the  Shoshones  the 
preceding  autumn,  as  already  mentioned),  with  her  two  children. 
She  told  them,  that  shortly  after  Mr.  Read  had  built  his  house, 
she  proceeded  with  her  husband  and  two  other  hunters,  named 
Peznor  and  Le  Clerc,  between  four  and  five  days'  march  from 
the  post  to  a  part  of  the  country  well  stocked  with  beaver,  ot 
which  they  succeeded  in  trapping  a  considerable  quantity.  One 
evening  about  the  beginning  of  January,  while  the  poor  fellows 
were  thus  occupied,  Le  Clerc  staggered  into  her  hut  mortally 
wounded.  He  had  merely  strength  sufficient  to  acquaint  her 
that  the  savages  had  suddenly  fallen  on  them  while  they  were  at 
their  traps,  and  had  killed  her  husband  and  Peznor : — he  was 
then  proceeding  to  give  her  directions  as  to  the  best  means  of 
effecting  her  escape ;  but  ere  he  hac^  concluded,  death  termi- 
nated his  existence. 

With  that  courage  and  self-possession  of  which  few  Indian 
women  are  devoid  in  times  of  necessity,  she  at  once  determined 


|i  ! 


*  Mr.  Hunt  Bubsequently  returned  to  St.  Louis,  at  the  entrance  of  tho 
Missouri,  in  which  neighbourhood  lie  possessed  extensive  property,  and  from 
accounts  which  I  have  recently  received,  I  feel  pleasure  in  stating,  has  been 
elevated  to  the  important  office  of  governor  of  the  state.  A  more  estimable 
individual  could  not  bo  selected  for  the  situation. 


-iHWi-  • 


■#'■ 


rBMALB    UARDUIOOD. 


137 


bf  tho 

Ifrom 

been 

lable 


on  flying  from  a  spot  so  dangerous.  With  considerable  difficulty 
•he  succeeded  in  catching  two  horses.  On  one  she  placed 
ber  clothes,  a  small  quantity  of  dried  Huhnoii,  and  some  l)cavur 
meat  which  remained  in  the  hut.  She  mounted  on  the  other 
with  her  two  children,  the  elder  of  whom  was  only  three  years 
old,  and  the  other  did  not  exceed  four  montliH.  Thus  provided, 
■he  commenced  her  journey  towards  Mr.  Read's  establishment. 
On  the  third  day  she  observed  a  number  of  Indians  on  horse- 
back galloping  in  an  easterly  direction :  she  immediately  dis- 
mounted with  the  children,  and  was  fortunate  enough  to  escape 
unnoticed.  That  night  she  slept  without  fire  or  water.  Late 
in  the  evening  of  the  fourth  day,  on  which  she  expected  to  have 
arrived  at  Mr.  Read's  house,  she  came  in  sight  of  the  spot  on 
which  it  had  stood  ;  but  was  horror-struck  at  beholding  there 
only  a  smoking  ruin,  with  fresh  murks  of  blood  scattered  all 
around.  Her  fortitude,  however,  did  not  forsake  her,  and  she 
determined  to  ascertain  whether  any  of  the  party  were  still  living. 

Having  concealed  the  children  and  horses  in  an  adjoining  clus- 
ter of  trees,  she  armed  herself  with  a  tomahawk  and  a  large 
knife,  and  afler  night-fall  she  cautiously  crept  towards  the 
scene  of  carnage.  All  was  silent  and  lonely,  and  at  every 
step  fresh  traces  of  blood  met  her  view.  Anxious  to  ascertain 
if  any  had  escaped  the  massacre,  she  repeatedly  called  out  the 
various  names  of  the  party,  but  no  voice  responded.  By  the 
expiring  glare  of  the  smouldering  timbers  she  observed  a  band 
of  prairie  wolves  engaged  in  a  sanguinary  banquet.  The  sound 
of  ner  voice  scared  them,  and  they  fled.  Fearful  tliat  they  might 
bend  their  way  to  the  spot  in  which  she  had  deposited  her  pre- 
cious charge,  she  hastened  thither,  and  arrived  just  in  time  to 
save  her  children  from  three  of  those  ferocious  animals  which 
were  then  approaching  them. 

From  thence  she  proceeded  the  following  morning  towards  a 
range  of  mountains  not  far  from  the  upper  parts  of  the  Wal- 
lah Wallah  river,  where  she  intended  to  remain  the  rest  of  the 
winter.  This  place  she  reached  on  the  next  day  in  a  state  of 
ffreat  exhaustion  from  the  want  of  food.  Fortunately  she  had  a 
Dufialo  robe  and  two  or  three  deer-skins,  with  which,  aided  by 
some  pine  bark  and  cedar  branches,  she  constructed  a  wigwam 
that  served  to  shelter  her  tolerably  well  from  the  inclemency  of 
the  weather.  The  spot  she  chose  was  a  rocky  recess  close  by  a 
mountain  spring.  She  was  obliged  to  kill  the  two  horses  for  food, 
the  meat  of  which  she  smoke-dried,  and  the  skins  served  as  an 
additional  covering  to  her  frail  habitation.  In  this  cheerless  and 
melancholy  solitude  the  wretched  widow  and  her  two  poor  or- 
phans dragged  on  a  miserable  existence  during  a  severe  season. 
Towards  the  latter  end  of  March  she  had  nearly  consumed  the 

R 


^m 

1 

f 

1 

m  i' 

"m  li ' 

JH  1 

s  ii 

I 


ins 


FEMALE    HARDIHOOD. 


la§t  of  her  horsctl<!8li,  in  conHcquenco  of  'which  «he  found  it 
necessary  to  change  her  qnnrtcrs.  Durii)g  the  whole  of  this 
period  she  saw  none  of  the  nntivoH,  or  any  indication  of  human 
habitations.  Having  packed  u|)  as  much  covitring  and  dried 
meat  as  she  could  carry,  she  placed  it  with  her  younger  child  on 
her  back,  and  taking  the  ehlcr  by  the  hnnd,  she  Imde  adieu  to 
her  wintry  encampment.  After  crossing  the  ridge  of  mountains 
she  fell  on  the  vV  diah  Wallah  river,  olong  the  banks  of  which 
she  continued  until  she  arrived  at  its  junction  with  the  Colum- 
bia. Her  reception  and  treatment  by  the  tribe  at  that  place 
v/BB  of  the  most  cordial  and  hospitable  description  ;  and  she  had 
been  living  with  them  about  a  fortnight  when  the  canoes  passed, 
and  took  her  up  to  Oakinagan. 

The  house  tna(  had  been  built  by  Mr.  Read  had  no  paling  or 
defence  of  any  kind  ;  and  as  the  men  were  constantly  out  hunt- 
ing, or  procuring  provisions,  she  supposed  he  had  not  more  than 
one  or  two  with  him  at  the  time  they  were  attacked,  and  that 
the  others  had  been  cut  off  in  the  snnu!  manner  as  her  husband 
and  his  companions.  She  could  not  assign  any  reason  for  this 
butchery,  and  up  to  the  period  I  quitted  the  country  the  cause  of 
it  was  never  satisfactorily  ascertamed.  Some  imagined  that  it 
was  committed  by  the  tribe  to  which  the  man  belonged  that  had 
been  hanged  by  Mr.  Clarke,  in  revenge  for  his  death;  but  this 
could  not  have  been  the  case  ;  for,  leaving  the  policy  or  impolicy 
of  that  execution  out  of  the  question,  we  subsequently  learned 
that  his  tribe  inhabited  the  upper  parts  of  Lewis  River,  and 
never  crossed  the  mountains  beyond  which  Mr.  Read  had  formed 
his  establishment. 

From  the  quantity  of  blood  Dorrien's  widow  saw,  she  thinks 
that  several  of  the  savages  must  have  been  killed  or  wounded 
before  their  bloodthirsty  efforts  were  crowned  with  such  fatal 
success. 

Mr.  Read  was  a  rough,  warm -hearted,  brave  old  Irishman. 
Owing  to  some  early  disappointments  in  life  he  had  quitted  his 
native  country  while  a  young  man,  in  search  of  wealth  among 
regions 

Where  beasts  with  man  divided  empire  claim,  "      ' 

And  the  brown  Indian  marks  with  murd'rous  aim ; 

and  after  twenty-five  years  of  toils,  dangers,  and  privations, 
added  another  victim  to  the  long  list  of  those  who  have  fallen 
sacrifices  to  Indian  treachery. 


4!- 


ARRIVAL    AT  rORT   flCOROE. 


139 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

ArriTkl  of  the  Itnac  Tod — Miat  J  me  Bnrnrx,  n  while  woman — Murder  of  one  of 
our  men  Ivy  Indinna — Triiil  pad  cxi-ruiion  of  the  niurdrrcri — Death  of  Mr. 
Donald  M'TavUh  and  livi>  ::;oii. 

We  left  Spoknn  House  on  the  25th  of  May,  and  reached 
Oakinogan  on  the  '29th,  where  I  found  my  disconsolate  friend, 
the  ex-subaltern,  just  recovering  from  the  melancholy  into  which 
his  hibernal  solitude  had  thrown  him.  The  different  parties 
having  now  assembled,  we  all  Hturted  for  the  sea  on  the  30th  of 
May,  and  on  the  llth  of  Juno  arrived  at  Fort  George.  We 
were  highly  gratified  at  finding  the  so  long  expected  Isaac  Tod 
safe  at  anchor.  Aller  parting  company  with  the  men-of-war  oflf 
Cape  Horn,  she  touched  at  Juan  Fernandez  and  the  Galiipagos 
Islands,  from  whence  she  proceeded  to  Monterey,  a  Spanish  set- 
tlement on  the  coast  of  California,  for  provisions.  Here  the 
captain  was  informed  that  a  British  man-of-war  had  put  into 
San  Francisco  in  distress,  and  was  unable  to  leave  it.  This  latter 
place  is  also  a  Spanish  establishment,  and  is  situate  lat.  38"  N., 
about  two  degrees  to  the  southward  of  Monterey.  Captain 
Smith,  of  the  Isaac  Tod,  immediately  proceeded  thither,  and 
found  the  vessel  alluded  to  was  the  Racoon  sloop  of  war,  com- 
manded by  Captain  Black.  This  vessel,  on  quitting  the  Colum- 
bia, struck  several  times  on  the  bar,  and  was  so  severely  damaged 
in  consequence,  that  she  was  obliged  to  make  for  San  Francisco, 
which  port  she  reached  in  a  sinking  state,  with  seven  feet  water 
in  her  hold.  Finding  it  impossible  to  procure  the  necessary 
materials  there  to  repair  the  damage,  Captain  Black  and  his 
officers  had  determined  to  abandon  the  vessel,  and  proceed 
over-land  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  whence  they  could  have 
obtained  a  passage  to  England  ;  but  when  the  Isaac  Tod  arrived 
they  succeeded,  with  her  assistance,  in  stopping  the  leaks,  and 
putting  the  Racoon  in  good  sailing  order  ;  af\er  which  the  Isaac 
Tod  weighed  anchor,  and  on  the  17th  of  April  crossed  the 
bar  of  the  Columbia,  after  a  voyage  of  thirteen  months  from 
England. 

She  brought  out  the  following  passengers ;  viz.,  Messrs.  Don- 
ald M'Tavish  and  John  M'Donald,  proprietors ;  and  Messrs. 
Alexander  and  James  M'Tavish,  Alexander  Frazer,and  Alexan- 
der M'Kenzie,  clerks,  with  Doctor  Swan,  a  medical  gentleman 
engaged  as  resident  physician  at  the  fort. 


M: 


f 


4'         3^ 


Iti 


!i 


'I  \' 


!sM 


1'     I 


(I  .. 
ii, 


Ml 


<  .! 


140 


MISS   JAKB   BARNES. 


The  two  first-named  gentlemen,  from  their  long  experience  of 
Indian  living,  knew  well  the  little  luxuries  that  would  be  most 
grateful  to  men  so  long  debarred  from  the  enjoyments  of  civilized 
life ;  and  they  accordingly  brought  out  a  few  casks  of  bottled 
porter,  some  excellent  cheese,  and  a  quantity  of  prime  English 
beef,  which  they  had  dressed  and  preserved  in  a  peculiar  manner 
in  tin  cases  impervious  to  air  ;  so  that  we  could  say  we  ate  fresh 
beef  which  had  been  killed  and  dressed  in  England  thirteen 
months  before !  Acceptable  as  were  these  refreshers  to  our 
memory  of  "lang  sync,"  they  brought  out  another  object  which 
more  strongly  recalled  to  our  semi-barbarized  ideas  the  thoughts 
of  our  "  dear  native  home,"  than  all  the  other  bonnes  chases  con- 
tained in  the  vessel.  This  was  neither  more  nor  less  than  a 
flaxen-haired,  blue-eyed  daughter  of  Albion,  who,  in  a  tempo* 
rary  fit  of  erratic  enthusiasm,  had  consented  to  become  le  c&m* 

pagnon  du  voyage  of  Mr.  Mac .    Miss  Jane  Barnes  had 

been  a  lively  bar-maid  at  an  hotel  in  Portsmouth,  at  which  Mr. 

Mac had  stopped  preparatory  to  his  embarkation.    This 

gentleman  being  rather  of  an  amorous  temperament,  proposed 
the  trip  to  Miss  Jane,  who,  "  nothing  loath,"  threw  herself  on  his 
protection,  regardless  of  consequences,  and  after  encounterii^ 
the  perils  of  a  long  sea-voyage,  found  herself  an  object  of  interest 
to  the  residents  at  the  fort,  and  the  greatest  curiosity  that  ever 
gratified  the  wondering  eyes  of  the  blubber-loving  aboriginals  of 
the  north-west  coast  of  America.  The  Indians  daily  thronged 
in  numbers  to  our  fort,  for  the  purpose  of  gazing  on  and  admirinff 
the  fair  beauty,  every  article  of  whose  dress  was  exammed  witK 
the  most  minute  scrutiny.  She  had  rather  an  extravagant  ward- 
robe, and  each  day  exhibited  her  in  a  new  dress,  which  she 
always  managed  in  a  manner  to  display  her  figure  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage. One  day,  her  head  decorated  with  feathers  and  flowers, 
produced  the  greatest  surprise ;  the  next,  her  hair,  braided  and 
unconcealed  by  any  covering,  excited  equal  wonder  and  adnEU- 
ration.  The  youn^  women  felt  almost  afraid  to  approach  her, 
and  the  old  were  highly  gratified  at  being  permitted  to  touch  her 
person.  Some  of  the  chiefs  having  learned  that  her  protector 
mtended  to  send  her  home,  thought  to  prevent  such  a  measure 
by  making  proposals  of  marriage.  One  of  them  in  particular, 
the  son  of  Comcomly,  the  principal  chief  of  the  Chinooks,  came 
to  the  fort  attired  in  his  richest  dress,  his  face  fancifully  bedaubed 
with  red  paint,  and  his  body  redolent  with  whale  oil.  He  was 
young,  and  had  four  native  wives.  He  told  her,  that  if  she 
would  become  his  wife,  he  would  send  one  hundred  sea-otters 
to  her  relations  ;  that  he  would  never  ask  her  to  carry  wood, 
draw  water,  dig  for  roots,  or  hunt  for  provisions ;  that  he  would 
make  her  mistress  over  his  other  wives,  and  permit  her  to  rit  9l 


iir^ 


PROPOSALS   OF   MARRIAOK. 


141 


her  ease  from  morning  to  night,  and  wear  her  own  clothes;*  that 
she  should  always  have  abundance  of  fat  salmon,  anchovies,  and 
elk,  and  be  allowed  to  smoke  as  many  pipes  of  tobacco  during 
the  day  as  she  thought  proper ;  together  with  many  other  flatter- 
ing inducements,  the  tithe  of  which  would  have  shaken  the  con- 
stancy  of  a  score  of  the  chastest  brown  vestals  that  ever  flou- 
rished among  the  lower  tribes  of  the  Columbia. 

These  tempting  oflfers,  however,  had  no  charms  for  Jane. 
Her  long  voyage  had  not  yet  eradicated  certain  Anglican  pre- 
dilections respecting  mankind,  which  she  had  contracted  in  the 
country  of  her  birth,  and  among  which  she  did  not  include  a 
flat  head,  a  half-naked  body,  or  a  copper-coloured  skin  be- 
smeared with  whale  oil. 

Her  native  inamorato  made  several  other  inefiectual  pro- 
posals ;  but  finding  her  inflexible,  he  declared  he  would  never 
more  come  neai*  the  fort  while  she  remained  there.  We 
shortly  afterwaru  learned  that  he  had  concerted  a  plan  with 
some  daring  young  men  of  his  tribe  to  carry  her  oflT  while  she 
was  walking  on  the  beach  (her  general  custom  every  evening 
\7hile  the  gentlemen  were  at  dinner),  a  practice  which,  after 
this  information,  she  was  obliged  to  discontinue. 

Mr.  Mac at  fir  ji  intended  to  have  brought  her  with  him 

across  the  continent  to  Montreal ;  but  on  learning  the  impracti- 
cability of  her  performing  such  an  arduous  journey,  he  aban- 
doned that  idea,  and  made  arrangements  with  the  captain  for 
her  return  to  England  by  way  of  Canton.  A  few  words  more, 
and  I  shall  have  done  with  Miss  Barnes.  On  the  arrival  of  the 
vessel  at  Canton,  she  became  an  object  of  curiosity  and  admi- 
ration among  the  inhabitants  of  the  "  Celestial  Empire."  An 
English  gentleman  of  great  wealth,  connected  with  the  East 
India  Company,  oflered  her  a  splendid  establishment.  It  was 
infinitely  superior  to  any  of  the  proposals  made  by  the  Chinook 
nobility,  and  far  beyond  any  thing  she  could  ever  expect  in 
England:  it  was  therefore  prudently  accepted,  and  the  last 
account  I  heard  of  her  stated  that  she  was  then  enjoying  all  the 
luxuries  of  eastern  magnificence,  f 


\' 


^;l 


*  Meaning  that  he  would  not  inRist  on  her  wearing  the  light  covering  of  the 
Indian  females. 

t  Mias  Barnes  was  fond  of  quotations ;  but  she  was  no  Blue,  One  of  the 
clerks  was  one  day  defending  the  native  and  half 'ired  women,  whoso  char- 
acters she  had  violently  attacked,  and  he  recriminated  in  no  very  measured 
language  on  the  conduct  of  the  white  ladies  : — "  O,  Mr.  Mac  !"  said  she,  "  I 
suppose  you  agree  with  S/uikspeare,  that  '  Every  woman  is  at  heart  a  rake  ?' " 
^"  Pope,  ma'am,  if  you  please." — '*  Pope  !  Pope !"  replied  Jane.  "  Bless 
me,  sir  !  you  must  be  wrong  ;  rake  is  certainly  the  word.  I  never  heard  of 
but  one  Mmala  pope."  Then,  in  order  to  terminate  the  argument,  she  pre- 
tended to  read  an  old  newspaper  which  she  held  in  her  hand.    He  quickly 


n<i 


142 


DREADFUL  MURDER. 


)  HP 


i  ':■ 


About  a  month  after  the  arrival  of  the  Isaac  Tod  a  circum- 
Btance  occurred  which,  as  it  caused  a  considerable  sensation  for 
some  time,  I  shall  fully  relate. 

About  two  miles  in  the  rear  of  the  fort,  on  the  Clatsop  river, 
a  place  had  been  established  for  making  charcoal.  One  of  the 
men  employed  at  this  business  was  a  poor  half-witted  American 
from  Boston,  named  Judge,  who  had  crossed  the  continent  with 
Mr.  Hunt's  party,  and  whose  sufferings  during  that  journey  had 
partially  deranged  his  intellect.  He  was  however  a  capital 
woodsman  ;  and  few  men  could  compete  with  him,  as  he  said 
himself,  in  hewing  down  forests  "  by  the  acre."  His  comrade 
had  been  absent  one  day  selecting  proper  wood  for  charcoal, 
and  on  returning  to  the  lodge  in  the  evening,  he  found  the  body 
of  the  unfortunate  Judge  lying  stretched  on  the  ground,  with  his 
scull  completely  cleft  in  two  oy  the  blow  of  an  axe  which  was 
lying  beside  him  steeped  in  blood.  He  instantly  repaired  to 
the  fort,  and  communicated  the  dreadful  intelligence ;  upon 
which  a  party  was  despatched  for  the  mangled  remains  of  poor 
Judge. 

Mr.  M'Tavish  forthwith  summoned  all  the  neighbouring  chiefs 
to  attend  at  the  fort ;  and  on  the  following  day  there  was  a  con- 
gress of  representatives  from  the  Chinooks,  Chilts,  Clatsops, 
Killymucks,  and  Cathlamahs.  They  could  not  assign  any  reason 
for  the  murder ;  nor  indeed  could  any  one,  for  Judge  was  the 
most  harmless  individual  belonging  to  our  establishment.  They 
promised,  however,  that  every  exertion  should  be  made  on  their 
part  for  the  discovery  of  the  perpetrators ;  and  Mr.  M'Tavish 
offered  a  large  reward  for  their  apprehension.  Some  time 
elapsed  in  vain  inquiry  ;  but,  through  the  agency  of  the  Clatsop 
chief,  we  received  private  information  that  the  murderers  were 
two  of  the  Killymucks  ;  and  that  if  we  sent  a  party  well  armed 
to  his  village,  he  would  render  every  assistance  to  take  them 
into  custody.  Mr.  Matthews  and  seven  men  were  accordingly 
ordered  on  this  dangerous  duty.  They  proceeded  early  in  the 
day  in  a  canoe  up  the  Clatsop  river,  as  if  on  a  hunting  excursion, 
and  stopped  late  in  the  evening  at  a  place  previously  agreed  on, 
where  they  were  joined  by  three  Clatsops  and  a  Killymuck, 
who  was  the  informer.    After  nightfall  they  continued  on  until 


diacovered  by  hor  keeping  the  wrong  end  uppermost  that  she  did  not  know  a 
■yllable  of  its  contents.  He  quitted  hor  abruptly  ;  and  as  ho  was  coming  out 
I  met  him  at  the  door,  a  wicked  and  malicious  grin  ruffling  his  sunburnt 
features.  "  Well,  Mac,"  said  I,  "  what's  the  matter  ?  You  seem  annoyed." 
— "What  do  you  think  ?"  he  replied ;  "  I  have  just  had  a  conversation  with 
that  fine-looking  damsel  there,  who  looks  down  with  such  contempt  on  our 
women,  and  may  I  be  d — d  if  she  understands  B  from  a  buffalo  !" 

Her  supposed  education  was  the  only  excuse  in  his  opinion  to  juatify  her 
uaurpation  of  auperiority ;— that  gone,  he  judg«d  her  ^*  poor  indeed." 


V 


* 


CAPTURE    OF   THE   MURDERERS. 


143 


with 
our 


they  arrived  at  the  Killymuck  village,  when  they  landed.  The 
informer,  having  pointed  out  the  lodges  in  which  the  murderers 
slept,  and  told  their  names,  separated  from  the  party.  Mr. 
Matthews  immediately  proceeded  to  the  chiefs  dwelling,  and 
made  him  acquainted  with  the  object  of  his  visit.  He  appeared 
somewhat  surprised  ;  but  stated,  that  having  promised  to  assist 
in  discovering  them,  he  would  not  oppose  their  apprehension, 
provided  they  were  allowed  a  fair  trial,  arid  that  nothing  should 
befall  them  but  on  the  clearest  testimony.  This  was  of  course 
agreed  to  ;  and  Mr.  Matthews,  with  his  party,  then  cautiously 
approached  the  habitations  of  the  two  delinquents,  which  were 
adjoining  each  other ;  and  having  divided  his  men,  leaving  the 
Clatsops  to  mind  the  canoe,  they  entered  the  houses,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  seizing,  binding,  and  hurrying  the  prisoners  on  board 
before  the  village  was  alarmed.  The  men  paddled  hard  until 
they  arrived  at  the  Clatsop  village,  where  they  stopped  to  rest, 
and  the  following  morning  at  daybreak  they  reached  Fort 
George  in  safety.  The  day  subsequent  to  that  of  our  arrival 
was  fixed  for  the  trial.  It  was  held  in  the  large  dining-hall ; 
and  the  jury  was  composed  of  the  gentlemen  belonging  to  the 
Company,  with  an  equal  number  of  Indians,  consisting  of  chiefs 
and  chieftainesses,  for  among  these  tribes  old  women  possess 
great  authority.  It  appeared  in  the  course  of  the  investigation 
that  revenge  was  the  cause  of  the  murder.  About  two  years 
before  this  period,  while  houses  were  being  built  for  the  men, 
the  greater  number  of  them  were  lodged  in  tents  and  huts  about 
the  fort,  from  which  the  Indians  were  constantly  in  the  practice 
of  pilfering  whatever  they  could  lay  their  hands  on  ;  particularly 
at  night,  when  the  workmen  were  buried  in  sleep  after  the 
labour  of  the  day. 

Judge  and  three  others  were  lodged  together ;  and  one  night, 
when  it  was  supposed  they  were  fast  asleep,  one  of  them  heard 
the  noise  of  footsteps  outside  approaching  the  tent.  Through 
8  slit  in  the  canvass  he  ascertained  they  were  natives,  and  with- 
out awaking  his  comrades,  he  cautiously  unsheathed  his  sword, 
and  waited  a  few  minutes  in  silence,  watching  their  motions, 
until  they  at  length  reached  the  tent,  the  lower  part  of  which  they 
were  in  the  act  of  raising,  when,  by  a  desperate  blow  of  the 
sword,  he  severely  cut  one  of  their  arms.  The  savage  gave  a 
dreadful  yell,  and  the  Canadian  rushed  out,  when  he  distinctly 
perceived  two  Indians  running  away  quickly,  and  disappear  in 
the  gloom  of  the  forest  behind.  This  circumstance  made  some 
noise  at  the  time  ;  the  parties  were  not  discovered,  and  in  a  few 
weeks  the  event  was  forgotten  by  our  people  ;  but  it  was  not  so 
with  the  savages.  They  harboured  the  most  deep  and  deadly 
revenge ;  and  thinking  that  Judge  was  the  person  who  had  in- 


'  I 


^ 


# 


■m' 


'M 


u\ 


144 


CONVICTION — SENTENCE — EXECUTTON. 


V- 


fUcted  the  wound,  thfty  determined  to  wreak  their  vengeance  on 
him.  For  this  purpose  they  had  been  for  nearly  two  years  oc- 
casionally lurking  about  the  fort,  until  the  fatal  opportunity  pre- 
sented  itself  of  gratifying  their  demoniacal  passion.  On  the 
day  of  the  murder,  after  Judge's  comrade  had  quitted  the  lodge, 
they  stole  unperceived  on  him,  and  while  he  was  engaged  at  the 
fire  they  felled  him  to  the  ground  with  a  blow  of  his  own  axe, 
afler  which  they  split  his  scull,  and  made  their  escape.  All  these 
facts  were  brought  out  during  the  trial,  which  lasted  the  greater 
part  of  the  day.  Several  of  the  witnesses  underwent  a  strict 
cross-examination,  particularly  by  the  old  women,  who  evinced 
i^nuch  more  acuteness  than  was  displayed  by  the  chiefs. 

The  prisoners  made  no  defence,  and  observed  a  sulky  tacitur- 
nity during  the  whole  of  the  proceedings.  They  were  found 
guilty  by  the  unanimc  us  verdict  of  the  jury,  and  sentenced  to 
be  shot  the  following  morning.  They  snowed  no  signs  of  re- 
pentance or  sorrow ;  and  on  being  led  out  of  the  hall,  the  fel- 
low whose  arm  had  been  cut  held  it  up,  and  exclaimed,  "  Were 
I  now  free,  and  he  alive,  I  would  do  the  same  thing  again  I" 

About  nine  o'clock  the  next  morning  they  were  brought  from 
the  guard-house  pinioned,  and  conducted  to  the  fai-ther  end  of 
the  wharf,  at  which  place  it  was  arranged  they  were  to  suffer. 
Twenty-four  men  were  selected  by  ballot  to  carry  the  dreadful 

sentence  into  execution  under  the  command  of  Mr.  M ,  to 

whom  the  lot  fell.  Immense  numbers  of  Indians  belonging  to 
the  various  surrounding  nations  were  in  attendance  ;  some  on 
shore,  and  others  in  canoes.  The  guns  on  the  battery  and  in 
the  bastions  were  loaded  with  grape,  and  attended  by  men  with 
slow  matches.  The  remainder  of  our  people  were  drawn  up 
in  front  of  the  fort,  all  armed  with  muskets  and  bayonets.  The 
culprits  made  considerable  opposition  to  their  being  tied  to- 
gether, end  refused  to  kneel,  or  allow  the  caps  to  be  drawn  over 
their  eyes.  At  length,  between  force  and  entreaty,  these  pre- 
liminaries were  accomplished,  and  orders  were  given  to  fire. 
Afler  the  discharge  a  loud  and  frightful  yell  was  sent  forth  from 
the  surrounding  savages ;  but  they  remained  tranquil.  On  the 
smoke  clearing  away,  it  was  perceived  that  both  the  unfortunate 
men  were  still  alive,  although  several  balls  had  taken  effect. 

Mr.  M ordered  the  party  to  reload  quickly,  and  a  second 

volley  was  discharged :  one  only  was  killed ;  and  as  the  other^ 
made  repeated  attempts  to  rise,  and  appeared  to  suffer  great 
agony,  he  was  despatched  by  one  of  the  men,  who  fired  a  ball 
through  his  head.  The  party  then  gave  three  cheers,  and  re- 
tired to  the  fort,  while  the  friends  and  relatives  of  th'^  deceased 
took  away  their  bodies  amid  the  greatest  lamentations ;  durii^ 
whic^  pot  a  inurrour  was  heard,  or  the  slightest  symptom  of 


w 


:!■' 


■t-^' 


1 11. 1  t  I 


'II 


m  ,* 


*■■■ 


') 


f/, 


FATAL  ACCIDENT. 


145 


to- 
over 
pre- 
fire. 
I  from 

the 

mate 

Iffect. 

]cond 

rther^ 

treat 

ball 

re- 

kased 

jring 

Imof 


disapprobation  expressed.  Shortly  after  a  number  of  the  chiefs 
and  elders  came  up  to  the  fort,  when  Mr.  M'Tavish  invited 
them  into  the  hall,  to  thank  them  for  their  assistance;  and 
having  paid  the  promised  rewards,  and  made  various  pre- 
sents, they  smoked  the  calumet  of  peace,  and  departed  for 
their  respective  villages,  apparently  much  gratified  with  the 
manner  they  had  been  treated. 

Scarcely  was  this  tragedy  ended  when  one  more  fatal  to  the 
interests  of  the  Company  occurred  by  tho  melancholy  and  un- 
timely death  of  Mr.  Donald  M'Tavish.  This  gentleman  had 
embarked  in  an  open  boat,  with  six  voijageurs,  to  proceed  to  the 
opposite  side  of  t  e  Columbia.  It  blew  a  stiff  gale  ;  and  about 
the  middle  of  the  liVer,  owing  to  some  mismanagement  of  the 
sail,  a  heavy  wave  struck  the  boat,  which  instantly  filled  and 
went  down.  With  the  exception  of  one  man  they  a''  perished : 
he  succeeded  in  gaining  a  snag  which  was  a  few  feet  above  the 
water,  and  on  which  he  remained  for  nearly  two  hours,  until  he 
was  rescued  when  in  a  state  of  great  exhaustion  by  two  Chi- 
nooks,  who  proceeded  to  his  assistance  in  a  small  canoe.  Thus 
perished  the  respected  Mr.  Donald  M'Tavish,  one  of  the  oldest 
propriet;^rs  of  the  North-west  Company,  and  for  many  years 
the  principal  director  for  managing  the  affairs  of  the  interior. 
He  had  realized  an  independent  fortune ;  and  had,  in  fact,  retired 
from  the  Company,  when  he  volunteered  his  services  to  organ- 
ize the  new  department  of  Columbia ;  after  effecting  which  ob- 
ject it  was  his  intention  to  have  crossed  the  continent  to  Canada, 
and  from  thence  to  proceed  to  Scotland,  where  he  had  purchased 
an  estate,  on  which,  after  a  life  of  fatigues  and  hardships,  he  had 
hoped  to  spend  an  old  age  of  ease  and  comfort.  Mr.  M'Tavish 
was  a  man  of  bold  decided  character.  His  enmity  was  open 
and  undisguised ;  his  friendship  warm  and  sincere.  Sprung 
from  a  comparatively  humble  origin,  he  was  the  founder  of  his 
own  fortune ;  and  merit  with  him  was  sure  to  be  appreciated 
without  reference  to  a  man's  family  or  connexions. 

The  day  after  this  melancholy  event,  the  body  of  the  lamented 
gentleman,  with  those  of  four  of  the  men,  were  found,  and  in- 
terred in  a  handsome  spot  behind  the  north-east  bastion  of  Fort 
(reorge,  where  a  small  monument,  tolerably  well  engraved,  points 
to  the  future  Indian  trader  the  last  earthly  remains  of  thg 
enterprising  Donald  M'Tavish, 


! 


"*■• 


S 


j^        ^ 


m 


msi 


i 


146 


THE  NATIVES — DISTCRTION   OF  THE   BEAD. 


i*'. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


i, 


Sketch  of  the  Indians  about  vhe  mou"-.  of  tho  Columbia — ProcMi  of  flat- 
tening the  heaH.— Thievish  disposition — Treatment  of  their  slaves — Sug- 
gestions to  the  missionary  societies— Dreadful  ravages  of  the  smallpox — 
Jack  Ilanisay — Their  ideas  of  religion — Curious  superstition — Marriage 
ceremonies — Anecdote — Aversion  to  ardent  spirits — Government — War- 
Arms  and  armour — Canoes  and  houses — System  of  cooking — Utensili — 
Gambling — Haiqtia — Quack  doctors — Mode  of  burial. 


1814. 


i^-^t 


We  remained  a  couple  of  months  this  summer  at  Fort  George, 
making  the  necessary  arrangements  for  our  winter's  campaign. 
During;  this  period  we  made  several  excursions  on  pleasure  or 
business  to  the  villages  of  thd  various  tribes,  from  one  to  three 
days'  journey  from  the  fort.     They  differ  little  from  each  other 
in  laws,  manners,  or  customs,  and  were  I  to  make  a  distinction, 
I  would  say  the  Cathlamahs  are  the  most  tranquil,  the  Killymucks 
the  most  roguish,  the  Clatsops  the  most  honest,  and  the  Chinooks 
the  most  incontinent.     The  Ciilts,  a  small  tribe  who  inhabit  the 
coast  to  the  northward  oF  Cape  Disappointment,  partake  in  some 
degree  of  these  various  qualities.     The  abominable  custom  of 
flattening  their  heads  prevails  among  them  all.     Immediately 
after  birth,  the  infant  is  placed  in  a  kind  of  oblong  cradle  formed 
like  a  trough,  with  moss  under  it.     One  end,  on  which  the  head 
reposes,  is  more  elevated  than  the  rest.    A  padding  is  then  placed 
on  the  forehead,  with  a  piece  of  cedar-bark  over  it,  and  by  means 
of  cords  passed  through  small  holes  on  each  side  of  the  cradle, 
the  padding  is  pressed  against  the  head.    It  is  kept  in  this  man- 
ner upwards  of  a  year,  and  is  not,  I  believe,  attended  with  much 
pain.     The  appearance  of  the  infant,  however,  while  in  this 
state  of  compression,  is  frightful,  and  its  little  black  eyes,  forced 
out  by  the  tightness  of  the  bandages,  resemble  those  of  a  mouse 
chokec'  in  a  trap.    When  released  from  this  inhuman  process, 
the  head  is  perfectly  flattened,  and  the  upper  part  of  it  seldom 
exceeds  an  inch  in  thickness.    It  never  afterward  recovers  its 
rotundity.    They  deem  this  an  ec,i>ential  point  of  beauty,  and  the 
most  devoted  adherent  of  our  first  Charles  never  entertained  a 
stronger  aversion  to  a  Round-head  than  these  savages.* 

*  Doctor  Swan,  on  examining  the  sculls  I  had  taken,  canitidly  confessed  that 
nothing  short  of  ocular  demonstration  could  have  convinced  him  of  the  pos- 
sibility of  moulding  the  human  head  into  such  a  form. 


t  If      K 


^ 


^f 


( 


CHARACTBR   OP   NATIVES — TIIIEVINO   PnOPENSITIES.       147 

They  allege,  as  an  excuse  for  this  custom,  that  all  their  slaves 
have  round  heads  ;  and  accordingly  every  child  of  a  bondsman, 
who  is  not  adopted  by  the  tribe,  inherits  not  only  his  father's 
degradation,  but  his  parental  rotundity  of  cranium. 

This  deformity  is  unredeemed  by  any  peculiar  beauty  either 
in  features  or  person.  The  height  of  the  men  varies  from  five 
feet  to  five  feet  six  inches ;  that  of  the  women  is  generally  six 
or  eight  inches  less.  The  nose  is  rather  fiat,  with  distended 
nostrils;  and  a  mouth,  seldom  closed,  exposes  to  view  an 
abominable  set  of  short,  dirty,  irregular  teeth.  The  limbs  of 
the  men  are  in  general  well  shaped  ;  but  the  women,  owing  to 
tight  ligature?  which  they  wear  on  the  lower  part  of  their  legs, 
are  quite  bandy,  with  thick  ankles,  and  broad  fiat  feet.  They 
have  loose  hanging  breasts,  slit  ears,  and  perforated  noses, 
which,  added  to  greasy  heads,  and  bodies  saturated  with  fish-oil, 
constitute  the  sum  total  of  their  personal  attractions. 

The  good  qualities  of  these  Indians  are  few  ;  their  vices  many. 
Industry,  patience,  sobriety,  and  ingenuity  nearly  comprise  the 
former;  while  in  the  latter  may  be  classed,  thieving,  lying, 
incontinence,  gambling,  and  cruelty.  They  are  also  perfect 
hypocrites.  Each  tribe  accuses  the  other  of  "  envy,  hatred, 
malice,  and  all  uncharitableness."  Even  the  natives  of  the 
same  village,  while  they  feign  an  outward  appearance  of  friend- 
ship, indulge  in  a  certain  propensity  called  backbiting ;  in  this 
respect  differing  but  little  from  the  inhabitants  of  more  civilized 
countries,  among  whom  the  prevalence  of  such  ill-natured 
practices  has  by  certain  envious  and  satirical  cofiee-drinkers 
been  unjustly  aiL  '^mted  to  the  scandalizing  influence  of  tea. 

Their  bravery  is  rather  doubtful;  but  what  they  want  in 
courage  they  make  up  in  eflfrontery.  Fear  alone  prevents  them 
firom  making  any  open  or  violent  attempt  at  robbery ;  and  their 
offences  under  this  head,  in  legal  parlance,  may  more  strictly 
be  styled  petty  larcenies.  I  have  seen  a  fellow  stopped  on 
suspicion  of  stealing  an  axe.  He  denied  the  charge  with  the 
most  barefaced  impudence;  and  when  the  stolen  article  was 

EuUed  from  under  his  robe,  instead  of  expressing  any  regret,  he 
urst  out  laughing,  and  alleged  he  was  only  joking.  One  of  the 
men  gave  him  a  few  kicks,  which  he  endured  with  great  sang 
froid ;  and  on  joining'  his  companions,  they  received  him  with 
smiling  counten..iices,  and  bantered  him  on  the  failure  of  his 
attempt.  They  seldom  make  any  resistance  to  these  summary 
punishments ;  and  if  the  chastisement  takes  place  in  the  presence 
of  a  chief,  he  seems  delighted  at  the  infliction. 

They  purchase  slaves  from  the  neighbouring  tribes  for  beaver, 
otter,  beads,  &c.  I  could  never  learn  whether  any  were  taken 
by  them  in  war.    While  in  good  health,  and  able  to  work^  they 

1*^ 


m 


■  f 


t 


♦, 


W-'  — 


.^'i 


<I1    *" 


m 


INCONTINENCE — PHOSTITUTIOJf. 


are  well  treated  ;  but  the  moment  they  fall  sick,  or  become  unfit 
for  labour,  the  unfortunate  slaves  are  totally  neglected,  and  left 
to  perish  in  the  most  miserable  manner.  After  death,  their  bodies 
are  tlirown  without  any  ceremony  at  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  or  into 
an  adjoining  wood.  It  sometimes  happens  that  a  slave  is  adopted 
by  a  family ;  in  which  case  he  is  permitted  to  marry  one  of  the 
tribe,  and  his  children,  by  undergoing  the  flattening  process,  melt 
down  into  the  great  mass  of  the  community. 

Chastity  is  an  item  seldom  inscribed  on  the  credit  side  of  their 
account  current  with  futurity.  Indeed  a  strict  observance  of  it 
before  marriage  is  not  an  article  of  their  moral  code. 

Formerly  an  act  of  post-nuptial  incontinence  subjected  the 
woman  to  the  loss  of  life  ;  but  in  latter  times  infractions  of  con- 
jugal rights  are  often  connived  at,  or  if  committed  sans  permis- 
sion, only  slightly  punished.* 

Numbers  of  the  women  reside  during  certain  periods  of  the 
year  in  small  huts  about  the  fort,  from  which  it  is  difficult  to 
keep  the  men.  They  generally  retire  with  the  fall  of  the  leaf 
to  their  respective  villages,  and  during  the  winter  months  seldom 
visit  Fort  George.  But  on  the  arrival  of  the  spring  and  autumn 
brigades  from  the  interior  they  pour  it)  from  all  parts,  and  besiege 
our  voyageurs  much  after  the  manner  which  their  frail  sisters  at 
Portsmouth  adopt  when  attacking  the  crews  of  a  newly  arrived 
India  fleet.  Mothers  participate  with  their  daughters  in  the  pro- 
ceeds arising  from  their  prostitution ;  and,  in  many  instances, 
husbands  share  with  their  wives  the  wages  of  infamy.  Disease 
is  the  natural  consequence  of  this  state  of  general  demoralization, 
and  numbers  of  the  unfortunate  beings  suffer  dreadfully  from  the 
effects  of  their  promiscuous  intercourse. 

Now  that  the  North-west  and  Hudson's  Bay  Companies  have 
become  united,  and  that  rivalship  in  trade  cannot  be  brought 
forward  as  an  excuse  for  corrupting  Indians,  it  would  be  highly 
desirable  that  the  missionaries  would  turn  their  thoughts  to  this 
remote  and  too  long  neglected  corner  of  the  globe.  Their  pious 
labours  have  already  effected  wonders  in  the  comparatively 
small  islands  of  the  Pacific,  where  idolatry,  human  sacrifices,  and 
other  crimes  more  revolting  to  humanity,  have  been  abolished. 
I  would  therefore  respectfully  suggest  to  the  consideration  of  the 
benc7olent  individuals  who  i  onstitute  the  missionary  societies, 
the  propriety  of  extending  the  spheie  of  their  exertions  to  the 
North-west  coast  of  America,  and  from  tl.cnce  through  the 
interior  of  that  vast  continent ;  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of 
which,  with  the  exception  of  Canada  and  a  very  trifling  part  of 

*  We  were  tolc*  by  an  old  man  that  he  knew  but  of  one  instance  in  which 
a  hujband  killed  hit  wife  for  infidelity. 


€^ 


INDIAN  CONVBRHON — RBLIOTjirS  INSTRUCTION. 


U9 


the  frontiers,  are  still  buried  in  the  deepest  ignorance.    During 
the  period   :hat  France  held  possession  of  the  Canadas,  the 
Jesuits  made    vondert'ul  progress  in  converting  the  Indians,  and 
most  of  the  nitives  of  the  two  provinces  are  now  Christians. 
In  my  journey  across  the  continent  small  wooden  huts,  orna- 
mented with  crucifixes  and  other  symbols  of  Christianity,  situated 
from  five  to  seven  hundred  miles  beyond  the  limits  of  civilization 
were  pointed  out  to  me,  which  had  been  Ibrmerly  inhabiteu  by 
these  enterprising  missionaries  in  their  progress  through  the 
wilderness.     Tiiese  dwellings  are  now  deserted  ;  but  are  still 
regarded  with  pious  reverence  by  the  thoughtless  voyageurs ; 
and  even  the  poor  Indians,  who  by  the  cessation  of  the  Jes^ut 
missions,  have  relapsed  into  their  former  habits,  pay.  the  utmost 
respect  to  the  houses,  which  were  inhabited,  as  they  say,  by  "the 
good  white  fathers,  who,  unlike  other  white  men,  never  robbed 
or  cheated  them."     Since  the  annexation  of  Canada  to  the 
British  crown,  Indian  conversion  has  almost  ceased  ;  or  has 
made,  at  most,  a  slow  and  sickly  progress.     Their  moral  ame- 
lioration is  completely  neg!«^cldcl  by  both  English  and  Americans ; 
and  it  is  only  in  periods  of  war  that  we  pay  them  any  attention. 
The  first  settlers  of  the  United  States  did  not  act  so.     They 
fought  their  way  through  the  country  with  the  Bible  in  one  hand 
and  the  sword  in  the  other ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  former 
ceased  to  convince  that  recourse  was  had  to  the  latter.     Objec- 
tionable, however,  as  this  system  undoubtedly  was,  the  plan 
adopted  by  the  modern  Americans  is  more  so.     Their  anti-re' 
publican  love  of  aggrandisement,  by  the  continual  extension  ol' 
their  territorial  possessions,  must  sooner  or  later  destroy  the  unity 
of  their  confederation ;  and  it  is  a  subject  deeply  to  be  lamented 
that,  in  their  gradual  encroachments  on  the  Indian  lands,  Chris- 
tianity is  forgotten,  the  word  of  God  does  not  now,  as  in  the 
time  of  their  forefathers,  keep  in  check  the  sanguinary  sword 
of  man ;  and  extermination,  instead  of  regeneration,  seems  to 
be  their  motto.     To  return  to  the  Columbia.     It  u  the  only 
situation  on  the  north-west  coast,  to  the  nort'award  of  California, 
free  from  danger ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  by  a  proper  appli- 
cation the  Hudson's  B;     Company,  wi;o  tiave  now  possession  of 
Fort  George,  would  give  a  passage,  and  afford  every  facility  to 
resident  missionaries.     Odious  as  the  vices  are  to  which  I  have 
referred,  the  few  good  qualities  which  the  Indians  possess  would 
materially  assist  in  bringing  them  to  a  knowledge  of  the  true 
religion.    Independently  of  the  bene/icial  results  which  we 
might  naturally  expect  to  flow  from  thoir  exertions  among  the 
natives,  there  is  another  consideration  which  induces  me  to  think 
that  the  Company  would,  for  its  own  interest,  render  them 
every  assistance  in  its  power.    I  allude  to  the  situation  of  a 


160 


MISSIONARIES THE  SMALLPOX. 


number  of  men  in  its  employment  whose  knowledge  of  Chris- 
tianity,  owing  to  a  long  ubsence  from  their  native  country,  hai 
fallen  into  a  kind  of  abeyance,  and  which  would  undoubtedly  be 
revived  by  the  cheering  presence  of  a  minister  of  God.  Can- 
nibalism, although  unknown  among  the  Indians  of  the  Columbia, 
is  practised  by  the  savages  on  the  coast  to  the  northward  of  that 
river ;  so  that  by  the  progressive  labours  of  the  missionaries,  this 
dreadful  custom,  with  the  others,  might  be  gradually  abolished. 
The  settlement  formed  by  Lord  Selkirk  on  Red  River,  which 
falls  into  the  great  Lake  Wincpic,  and  which  suffered  so  much 
in  its  infancy  from  interested  enemies,  is  at  present,  I  am  happy 
to  hear,  in  a  thriving  condition.  A  missionary  has  been  establisned 
here,  whose  labours  have  already  been  productive  of  much  good. 
Numbers  of  the  surrounding  natives  have  become  converts,  and 
they  are  yearly  increasing.  The  progress  of  civilization  will 
gradually  gain  ground  among  the  western  tribes ;  and  we  may 
mdulge  the  pleasing  hope  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when 
the  missionaries,  in  their  glorious  career  eastward  and  westward, 
from  the  St.  Lawrence  and  tlie  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  despite 
iiie  many  difficulties  and  dangers  they  must  unavoidably  encoun- 
ter, may  meet  on  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  from  their  ice-cov- 
ered summits  proclaim  to  the  benighted  savages  "  Glory  to  God 
in  the  highest,  and  on  earth  peace  and  good- will  towards  men." 
About  thirty  years  before  this  period  the  smallpox  had  com- 
mitted dreadful  ravages  among  these  Indians,  the  vestiges  of 
which  are  still  visible  on  the  countenances  of  the  elderly  men 
and  women.  It  is  believed  in  the  north-west  that  this  disease 
was  wilfully  introduced  by  the  American  traders  among  the 
Indians  of  the  Missouri,  as  a  short  and  easy  method  of  reducing 
their  numbers,  and  thereby  destroying  in  a  great  measure  their 
hostility  to  the  whites.  The  Americans  throw  the  blame  on  the 
French ;  while  they  in  turn  deny  the  foul  imputation,  and  broadly 
charge  the  Spaniards  as  the  original  delinquents.  Be  this  as  it 
may,  the  disease  first  proceede  i  from  the  banks  of  the  Missouri, 
and  the  British  are  free  from  having  had  any  participation  in  the 
detestable  act.  It  travelled  with  destructive  rapidity  as  far 
north  as  Athabasca  and  the  shores  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake, 
crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  Missouri, 
and  having  fastened  its  deadly  venom  on  the  Snake  Indians, 
spread  its  devastating  course  to  the  northward  and  westward, 
u'  til  its  frightful  progress  was  arrested  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
&ome  of  the  old  voyageurs  who  were  stationed  at  English 
■River  and  Athabasca,  wh'^n  this  scourge  made  its  first  appear- 
ance, give  the  most  harrowing  details  of  its  ravages.  The 
unfortunate  Indians,  when  in  the  height  of  the  fever,  would 
plunge  into  a  river,  which  generally  caused  instant  death ;  and 
(thousands  of  the  miserable  wretches,  by  suicide,  anticipated  its  * 


■%*■>•. 


'm 


■*iM 


IMPOSITION — ANGLO-INDIAIV. 


151 


V 


fatal  termination.     Whole  villages  were  depopulated,  and  nn  old 
man  well  known  in  the  Indian  country,  named  Louis  La  Libert6, 
told  me  that  one  morning  during  its  height  ho  saw  between  two 
and  three  hundred  bodies  of  men,  women,  and  children,  sus- 
pended from  trees,  close  to  an  adjoining  village  of  the  Cree 
nation,  the  surviving  inhabitants  of  which  did  not  exceed  forty 
persons.    They  befieved  that  the  "  Grout  Master  of  Life  had 
delivered  them  over  to  the  Evil  Spirit  for  their  wicked  courses  ;" 
rind  for  many  yours  afterward  those  who  escaped,  or  survived 
the  deadly  contagion,  strictly  conformed  themselves  to  their  own 
code  of  moral  laws.     The  recollection  of  it,  however,  is  now 
fast  wearing  away  from  their  memory.     Those  who  bore  any 
traces  of  it  are  nearly  extinct ;  and  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
mountains,  intoxication  and  its  attendant  vices  are  becoming  too 
prevalent.     The  western  tribes  still  remember  it  with  a  super- 
stitious dread,  of  which  Mr.  M'Dougall  took  advantage,  when  he 
learned  that  the  Tonquin  had  been  cut  off.     He  assembled 
several  of  the  chieftains,  and  showing  thnm  a   small   bottle, 
declared  that  it  contained  the  smallpox ;  that  although  his  force 
was  weak  in  number,  he  was  strong  in  medicine ;  and  that  in 
consequence  of  the  treacherous  cruelty  of  the  Northern  Indians, 
he  Wv.  'M  open  the  bottle  and  send  the  smallpox  among  them. 
The  chiefs  strongly  remonstrated  against  his  doing  so.     They 
told  him  that  they  and  their  relations  were  always  frienaly  to  the 
white  people  ;  that  they  would  remain  so ;  that  if  the  smallpox 
was  once  let  out,  it  would  run  like  6re  among  the  good  people 
as  well  as  among  the  bad  ;  and  that  it  was  inconsistent  with 
justice  to  punish  friends  for  the  crimes  committed  by  enemies. 
Mr.  M'Dougall  appeared  to  be  convinced  by  these  reasons,  and 
promised,  that  if  the  white  people  were  not  attacked  or  robbed 
for  the  future,  the  fatal  bottle  should  not  be  uncorked.     He  was 
greatly  dreaded  by  the  Indians,  who  were  fully  impressed  with 
tne  idea  that  he  held  their  fate  in  his  hands,  and  they  called  him 
by  way  of  pre-eminence,  "  the  great  smallpox  chief." 

An  Indian,  belonging  to  a  small  tribe  on  the  coast  to  the  south- 
ward of  the  Clatsops,  occasionally  visited  the  fort.  He  was  a 
perfect  lusus  natures,  and  his  history  was  rather  curious.  His 
skin  was  fair,  his  face  partially  freckled,  and  his  hair  quite  red. 
He  was  about  five  feet  ten  inches  high,  was  slender,  but  remark- 
ably well  made;  his  head  had  not  ndergone  the  flattening  process^ 
and  he  was  called  Jack  Ramsay,  in  consequence  of  tnat  name 
having  been  punctured  on  his  left  arm.  The  Indians  allege  that 
his  father  was  an  English  sailor,  who  had  deserted  from  a  trading 
vessel,  and  had  lived  many  years  among  their  tribe,  one  of  whom 
he  married  ;  that  when  Jack  was  born  he  insisted  on  preserving 
the  child's  head  in  its  natural  state,  and  while  young  had  punc« 


1^ 

IP 


m 


153 


SUPKRBTlTIOtJS  OBIBIIVANCES. 


4- 


I'    ■ 


o:v 


turod  the  arm  in  the  uIkivo  manner.  Old  Rnmsny  had  died 
about  twenty  ycurs  before  this  period  :  ho  hud  several  more  chil- 
dren, but  Juck  wus  the  only  red-headed  one  nmong  them.  He 
was  the  only  half-bred  I  ever  saw  with  red  hair,  as  that  race  in 
general  partake  of  the  swarthy  hue  derived  from  their  maternal 
ancestors.  Poor  Jack  was  fond  of  his  father's  countrymen,  and 
had  the  decency  to  wear  trousers  whenever  he  came  to  the  fort. 
We  therefore  made  a  collection  of  old  clothes  for  his  use,  suffi- 
cient to  last  him  for  many  years. 

The  ideas  of  these  Indians  on  the  subject  of  a  future  state  do 
not  diflcr  much  from  the  opinions  entertained  by  the  natives  of 
the  interior.  They  believe  that  those  who  have  not  committed 
murder ;  who  have  fulfilled  the  relative  duties  of  son,  father,  and 
husband :  who  have  been  good  fishermen,  &c.,  will  after  their 
death  go  to  a  place  of  happiness,  in  which  they  will  find  an 
abundant  supply  of  fish,  fruit,  &c. ;  while  those  who  have  foU 
lowed  a  contrary  course  of  life  will  be  condemned  to  a  cold  and 
barren  country,  in  which  bitter  fruits  and  salt  water  will  form 
their  principal  means  of  subsistence.  Mr.  Franchere,  who  was 
stationed  permanently  at  Fort  George,  and  who  obtained  an  ac- 
curate knowledge  of  their  language,  &c.,  states  that  they  have 
a  tradition  relative  to  the  origin  of  mankind,  of  which  the  follow-, 
ing  is  the  substance : — Man  was  at  first  created  by  a  divinity 
named  Etalapass ;  but  he  was  originally  imperfect.  His  mouth 
'Was  not  divided,  his  eyes  were  closed,  and  his  hands  and  feet 
immoveable ;  in  short,  he  was  rather  a  statue  of  flesh,  than  a 
living  being.  A  second  divinity,  named  Ecannurn,  less  power- 
ful than  Etalapass,  but  more  benevolent,  seeing  man  in  this  im- 
Eerfect  state,  took  pity  on  him,  and  with  a  sharp  stone  opened 
is  mouth,  unclosed  his  eyes,  and  imparted  motion  to  his  hands 
and  feet.  Not  satisfied  with  these  gifts,  the  compassionate  deity 
taught  mankind  how  to  make  canoes,  paddles,  nets,  and  all  their 
domestic  utensils.  He  also  overturned  rocks  into  the  rivers, 
which,  by  obstructing  the  progress  of  the  fish  through  the  waters, 
enabled  them  to  take  sufficient  to  satisfy  their  wants.  We 
observed  no  idols  among  them ;  and  although  they  had  some 
small  grotesque-looking  figures,  carved  out  of  wood,  they  seemed 
to  pay  them  no  respect,  and  often  offered  to  barter  them  for 
trifles. 

Civilized  countries  are  not  exempt  from  superstition;  it  is 
therefore  not  surprising  to  find  it  exist  among  untutored  savages. 
They  believe  that  if  salmon  be  cut  cross-wise  the  fishery  will  be 
unproductive,  and  that  a  famine  will  follow.  In  the  summer  of 
181 1,  they  at  first  brought  but  a  small  quantity  to  the  people  who 
were  then  building  the  fort.  As  Mr.  M'Dougall  knew  there  was  no 
scarcity,  he  reproached  the  chiefs  for  furnishing  such  a  scanty  sup- 


™*:, 
P-^- 


-*   '.^; 


MAftUAOl — RBCOOIfinON    AND   RIPVLflB. 


113 


ply !  thoy  admitted  tho  charge,  but  anflignod  as  a  reason  their  Fears 
that  the  white  peo|>le  would  cut  it  tho  unlucky  way.  Mr. 
M'Dougall  promised  to  follow  their  plan,  u[)on  which  they  brought 
a  tolerable  good  quantity,  but  all  roasted ;  and  which,  in  order  to 
avoid  displeasing  them,  our  people  were  obliged  to  eat  before 
■unset  each  day. 

The  negotiations  preceding  a  marriage  are  short,  and  tho 
ceremony  itself  simple.  Wiicn  a  young  man  has  made  his 
choice,  he  commisnions  his  parents  or  other  relations  to  open  tho 
business  to  the  girl's  relations.  They  are  to  receive  a  certain 
quantity  of  proscntH;  and  wlion  these  are  ngrood  on,  they  all 
repair  to  the  house  intended  for  the  future  residence  of  the  young 
couple,  to  which  nearly  all  tho  inhabitants  of  the  village  are 
invited.  The  presents,  which  consist  of  Hlavcs,  oxes,  oeods, 
kettles,  haiquu,  orass  and  copper  bracelets,  &c.,  are  now  dis- 
tributed by  the  young  man,  who  in  his  turn  receives  an  equal  or 
perhaps  greater  quantity,  from  the  girl's  relations.  The  bride, 
decorated  with  the  various  ornaments  common  among  the  tribe, 
is  then  led  forth  by  a  few  old  women,  and  presented  to  the 
bridegroom.  He  receives  her  as  his  wife  ;  and  the  elders,  after 
wishing  them  plenty  of  fish,  fruit,  roots,  and  children,  retire  from 
the  house,  accompan^  [  by  nil  the  strangers.  I'he  marriage  tie 
-•^.  is  not  indissoluble.  A  nan  may  repudiate  his  wife,  who  is  then 
at  liberty  to  take  another  husband.  Infidelity  is  the  general 
cause  of  these  separations,  which  however  are  of  rare  occurrence. 

A  man  may  have  as  many  wives  as  his  means  will  permit  him 
to  keep.     Some  have  four  or  five.     They  live  together  in  the 

Seatest  harmony ;  and  although  their  lord  may  love  one  more 
an  another,  it  causes  no  jealousy  or  disunion  among  the  rest. 
Many  of  these  women,  who  have  followed  a  depraved  course 
of  life  before  marriage,  become  excellent  and  faithful  wives 
afterward ;  an  instance  of  which  I  shall  here  relate : — In  the 
early  part  of  this  summer  one  of  the  clerks,  who  had  been  out 
on  a  trading  excursion,  happened  to  be  present  at  a  marriage  in 
the  Clatsop  village.  He  was  surprised  at  recognising  in  the  bride 
an  old  chere  amie,  who  the  preceding  year  had  spent  three  weeks 
with  him  in  his  tent,  actually  decorated  with  some  of  the  baubles 
he  had  then  given  her.  His  eye  caught  hers  for  a  moment ;  but 
his  appearance  excited  not  the  least  etnotion,  and  she  passed  him 
by  as  one  whom  she  had  never  seen.  A  few  days  afterward 
she  came  to  tho  fort  accompanied  by  her  husband  and  other 
Indians.  She  remained  at  the  gate  while  the  men  were  selling 
some  fish  in  the  trading  store.  Her  old  Iciver,  observing  her 
alone,  attempted  to  renew  their  former  acquaintance ;  but  she 
betrayed  no  symptom  of  recognition,  and  in  a  cold  distant  man- 
ner told  him  to  go  about  his  business. 


•I 


N 


# 


i 

if 


154 


GOVERNMENT — INDIAN   WARFARE. 


J 


All  the  Indians  on  the  Columbia  entertain  a  strong  aversion 
to  ardent  spirits,  which  they  regard  as  poison.  They  allege  ihat 
slaves  only  drink  to  excess ;  and  that  drunkenness  is  degrading 
to  free  men.  On  one  occasion  some  of  the  gentlemen  at  Fort 
George  induced  a  son  of  Comcomly  the  chief  to  drink  a  few 
glasses  of  rum.  Intoxication  quickly  followed,  accompanied  by 
sickne  ;  in  which  condition  he  returned  home  to  his  father's 
house,  and  for  a  couple  of  days  remained  in  a  state  of  stupor. 
The  old  chief  subsequently  reproached  the  people  at  the  fort  for 
having  degraded  his  son  by  making  him  drunk,  and  thereby 
exposing  him  to  the  laughter  of  his  slaves. 

Each  village  is  governed  by  its  own  chief.  He  possesses  little 
authority,  and  is  respected  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  wivcis, 
slaves,  &;c.  which  he  may  keep.  The  greater  number  of  these, 
the  greater  the  chief     He  is  entitled,  however,  to  considerable 

Cost;  imous  honour ;  for  at  his  death  the  tribe  go  into  mourning 
y  ceding  their  hair,  and  for  some  months  continue  to  chant  a 
kmd  of  funeral  dirge  to  his  mcnnory.  As  each  village  forms  a 
petty  sovereignty,  governed  by  independent  chieftains,  lifTer- 
ences  often  arise  between  them.  These  differences  are  generally 
settled  by  giving  compensation  for  the  injury  inflicted ;  but  in 
the  event  of  a  serious  offence,  such  as  murder  (which  is  very 
rare),  or  the  aL  Juction  of  a  woman  (which  is  not  imcommon), 
the  parties  prepare  for  war. 

The  great  mass  of  the  American  Indians,  in  their  warlike 
encounters,  fall  suddenly  on  their  enemies,  and  taking  them 
unprepared,  massacre  or  capture  men,  women,  and  children. 
The  plan  adopted  by  the  Chinooks  forms  an  honourable  excep- 
tion to  this  system.  Having  once  determined  on  hostilities,  they 
give  notice  to  the  enemy  of  the  day  on  which  they  intend  to 
make  the  attack :  and  having  previously  engaged  as  auxiliaries  a 
number  of  young  men  whom  they  pay  for  that  purpose,  they 
embark  in  their  canoes  for  the  scene  of  action.  Several  of  their 
women  accompany  them  on  these  expeditions,  and  assist  in 
working  the  canoes. 

On  arriving  at  the  enemy's  village  they  enter  into  a  parley, 
and  endeavour  by  negotiation  to  terminate  the  quarrel  amicably. 
Sometimes  a  third  party,  who  preserves  a  strict  neutrality, 
undertake,  the  office  of  mediator ;  but  should  their  joint  efibrts 
fail  in  procuring  redress,  they  immediately  prepare  for  action. 
Should  the  day  be  far  advanced,  the  combat  is  deferred,  by 
mutual  consent,  till  the  following  morning ;  and  they  pass  the 
intervening  night  in  frightful  yells,  and  making  use  of  abusive 
and  insulting  language  to  each  other.  They  generally  fi^ht  from 
their  canoes,  which  they  take  care  to  incline  to  one  side,  pre- 
senting the  higher  flank  to  the  enemy ;  and  in  this  position,  with 


"^r 


mgiiiiupiniiy 


ilS- 


ARMOVR — CANOES. 


15$ 


pre- 
with 


their  bodies  quite  bent,  the  battle  commences.  Owing  to  the 
cover  of  their  canoes,  and  their  impenetrable  armour,  it  is  seldom 
bloody ;  and  as  soon  as  one  or  two  men  fali,  the  puny  to  whom 
they  belonged  acknowledge  themselves  vanquished  and  the 
combat  ceases.  If  the  assailants  be  unsuccessful,  they  return 
without  redress ;  but  if  conquerors,  they  receive  various  presents 
from  the  vanquished  party  in  addition  to  their  original  demand. 
The  women  and  children  are  always  sent  away  before  the 
en^gement  commences. 

Their  warlike  weapons  are  the  bow  and  arrow,  with  a  cut 
rious  kind  of  short  double-edged  sword  or  club,  two  and  a  half 
feet  in  length,  by  six  inches  in  breadth.  They  seldom,  however, 
fight  near  enough  to  make  use  of  this  formidable  instrument. 

Their  armour  consists  of  a  shirt  of  elk-skin,  remarkably  thick, 
doubled,  and  thrown  over  the  shoulders,  with  holes  for  the 
arms.  It  descend'?  to  the  ankles,  and  from  the  thickness  of  the 
leather  is  perfectly  arrow  proof.  The  head  is  covered  by  a 
species  of  helmet  made  of  cedar  bark,  bear  grass,  and  leather, 
and  is  also  impenetrable  by  arrows.  The  neck,  therefore,  is 
the  only  vital  part  of  the  body  exposed  to  danger  in  action.  In 
addition  to  the  above,  they  have  another  kind  of  armour,  which 
they  occasionally  wear  in  place  of  the  leathern  shirt.  It  is  a 
species  of  corset,  formed  of  thin  slips  of  hard  wood  ingeniously 
laced  together  with  bear  grass,  and  is  much  lighter  and  more 

E liable  than  the  former,  but  it  does  not  cover  so  much  of  the 
ody.  They  have  a  few  guns,  which  they  seldom  use.  They 
are  not  good  hunters,  and  their  chief  dependence  for  support  is 
on  the  produce  of  the  water.  It  is  unnecessary  to  mention  that 
in  their  warlike  expeditions  their  faces  and  bodies  are  painted 
in  various  colours,  and  with  the  most  grotesque  figures. 

Their  canoes  are  of  various  forms  and  sizes.  The  following 
description  of  the  largest  kind  of  these  vessels  I  take  from  Lewis 
and  Clarke.  It  is  perfectly  accurate,  and  more  technical  than  I 
could  give  it.  "  They  arc  upwards  of  fifty  feet  long,  and  will 
carry  from  eight  to  ten  thousand  pounds  weight,  or  from  twenty 
to  thirty  persons.  Like  all  the  canoes  we  have  mentioned,  they 
are  cut  out  of  a  single  trunk  of  a  tree,  which  is  generally  white 
cedar,  though  the  fir  is  sometimes  used.  The  sides  are  secured 
by  cross  bars  or  round  sticks,  two  or  three  inches  in  thickness, 
which  are  inserted  through  holes  made  just  below  the  gunwales, 
and  made  fast  with  cords.  The  upper  edge  of  the  gunwale 
itself  is  about  five-eighths  of  an  inch  thick,  and  four  or  five  in 
breadth ;  and  folds  outwards  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  rim,  which 
pi'events  the  water  from  beating  into  the  boat.  The  bow  and 
stern  are  about  the  same  height,  and  each  provided  with  a  comb 
reaching  to  the  bottom  of  the  boat.    At  each  end  also  are  pedes- 


•^fi' 


'% 


1 


f-  4>*'' 


m 


%       156 


NAVIGATION — ROUSES. 


m 


talsjformedof  the  same  solid  piece,on  which  are  placed  strange  gro- 
tesque figures  of  men  or  animals,  rising  sometimes  to  the  height  of 
five  feet,  and  composed  of  small  pieces  of  wood  firmly  united  with 
ereat  ingenuity,  by  inlaying  and  morticing,  without  a  spike  of  any 
kind.  The  paddle  is  usually  from  four  and  a  half  to  five  feet  in 
length ;  the  handle  being  thick  for  one  third  of  its  length,  when  it 
widens  and  is  hollowed  and  thinned  on  each  side  of  the  centre, 
which  forms  a  sort  of  rib.  When  they  embark,  one  Indian  sits  in 
the  stern  and  steers  with  a  paddle ;  the  others  kneel  in  pairs  in 
the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  and  sitting  on  their  heels  paddle  over 
the  gunwale  next  to  them.  In  this  way  they  ride  with  perfect 
safety  the  highest  waves,  and  venture  without  the  least  concern 
in  seas  where  other  boats  and  seamen  could  not  live  an  instant 
They  sit  quietly  and  paddle,  with  no  other  movement,  except 
when  any  large  wave  throws  the  boat  on  her  side,  and  to  the 
eye  of  tne  spectator  she  seems  lost :  the  man  to  windward 
tnen  f.teadies  her  by  throwing  his  body  towards  the  upper  side, 
and  sinking  his  paddle  deep  into  the  waves,  appears  to  catch 
the  water,  and  force  it  under  the  boat,  which  the  same  stroke 
pushes  on  with  great  velocity." 

The  description  of  their  houses,  and  their  manner  of  building 
them,  I  also  extract  from  the  same  authority : 

*'  The  houses  in  this  neighbourhood  are  all  large  wocden 
buildings,  varying  in  length  ^om  twenty  to  sixty  feet,  and  from 
fourteen  to  twenty  in  width.*  They  are  constructed  in  the 
following  manner :  Two  or  more  posts  of  split  timber,  agree- 
ably to  the  number  of  partitions,  are  sunk  in  the  ground,  above 
which  they  rise  to  the  height  of  fourteen  or  eighteen  feet.  They 
are  hollowed  at  the  top  so  as  to  receive  the  ends  of  a  round 
beam  or  pole,  stretching  from  one  end  to  the  other,  and  forming 
the  upper  point  of  the  roof  for  the  whole  extent  of  the  building. 
On  each  side  of  this  range  is  placed  another,  which  forms  the 
eaves  of  the  house,  and  is  about  five  feet  high ;  but  as  the  build- 
ing is  often  sunk  to  the  depth  of  four  or  five  feet,  the  eaves  come 
very  near  the  surface  of  the  earth.  Smaller  pieces  of  timber 
are  now  extended  by  pairs  in  the  form  of  rafters,  from  the  lower 
to  the  upper  beam,  where  they  are  attached  at  both  ends  with 
cords  of  cedar  bark.  On  these  rafters  two  or  three  ranges  of 
small  poles  are  placed  horizontally,  and  secured  in  the  same 
way  with  strings  of  cedar  bark.  The  sides  are  now  made  with 
a  range  of  wide  boards  sunk  a  small  distance  into  the  ground, 
with  the  upper  ends  projecting  above  the  poles  at  the  eaves,  to 
which  they  are  secured  by  a  beam  passing  outside,  parallel  with 
the  eave  poles,  and  tied  by  cords  of  cedar  bark  passing  through 

"■  I  hare  leen  some  of  their  housei  upwards  of  90  feet  long,  and  from  30  to 
40  broad. 


•ar 


CULINARY   OPERATIONS. 


157 


1 30  to 


holes  made  in  the  boards  at  certain  distances.  The  gable  ends 
and  partitions  are  formed  in  the  same  way,  being  fastened  by 
beams  on  the  outside,  parallel  to  the  rafters.  The  roof  is  then 
covered  with  a  double  range  of  thin  boards,  except  an  aperture 
of  two  or  three  feet  in  the  centre,  for  the  smoke  to  pass  through. 
The  entrance  is  by  a  small  hole  cut  out  of  the  boards,  and  just 
\aTge  enough  to  admit  the  body.  The  very  largest  houses  only 
are  divided  by  partitions;  for  though  three  or  more  families  re- 
side  in  the  same  room,  there  is  quite  space  enough  for  all  of  them. 

"  In  the  centre  of  each  room  is  a  space  six  or  eight  feet  square, 
sunk  to  the  depth  of  twelve  inches  below  the  rest  of  the  floor, 
and  enclosed  by  four  pieces  of  square  timber.  Here  they  make 
the  fire,  for  which  purpose  pine  bark  is  generally  preferred. 
Around  this  fireplace  mats  are  spread,  and  serve  as  seats  during 
the  day,  and  very  frequently  as  beds  at  night :  there  is,  however, 
a  more  permanent  bed  made,  by  fixing  in  two,  or  sometimes  three 
sides  of  the  room,  posts  reaching  from  the  roof  down  to  the 
ground,,  and  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  from  the  wall.  From 
these  posts  to  the  wall  itself  one  or  two  ranges  of  boards  are 
placed,  so  as  to  form  shelves,  on  which  they  either  sleep,  or  stow 
their  various  articles  of  merchandise.  The  uncured  fish  is  hung 
in  the  smoke  of  their  fires,  as  is  also  the  flesh  of  the  elk,  when 
they  are  fortunate  enough  to  procure  any,  which  is  but  rarely." 

Their  culinary  articles  consist  of  a  large  square  kettle  made 
of  cedar  wood,  a  few  platters  made  of  ash,  and  awkward  spoons 
ma«^e  of  the  same  material.  Their  mode  of  cooking  is,  how- 
ever, more  expeditious  than  ours.  Having  put  a  certain  quantity 
of  water  into  the  kettle,  they  throw  in  several  hot  stones,  which 
quickly  cause  the  water  to  boil ;  the  fish  or  meat  is  then  put  in, 
and  the  steam  is  kept  from  evaporating  by  a  small  mat  thrown 
over  the  kettle.  By  this  system  a  large  salmon  will  be  boiled 
in  less  than  twenty  minutes,  and  meat  in  a  proportionable  short 
space  of  time.  They  are  not  scrupulously  clean  in  their  cook- 
ing.  A  kettle  in  which  salmon  is  boiled  in  the  morning  may  have 
elk  dressed  in  it  the  same  evening,  and  the  foUowmg  day  be 
doomed  to  cook  a  dish  of  sturgeon,  without  being  washed  out, 
or  scarcely  rinsed.  They  occasionally  roast  both  their  meat 
and  fish  on  small  wooden  brochettes,  similar  to  those  used  by  the 
upper  Indians. 

It  will  no  doubt  be  regarded  as  a  subject  of  surprise,  that  in 
foiling  the  timber  for  their  houses,  and  in  the  laborious  operation 
of  forming  their  canoes,  they  had  not,  previous  to  our  arrival, 
an  axe.  Their  only  instruments  consisted  of  a  chisel,  generally 
formed  out  of  an  old  file,  a  kind  of  oblong  stone,  which  they 
used  as  a  hammer,  and  a  mallet  made  of  spruce  knot,  well  oiled  and 
hardened  by  the  action  of  fire.  With  these  wretched  tools  they  cut 
down  trees  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  in  circumference ;  and  with 

m 


M 


^' 


fft'^ 


18 


7 


•*• 


^ 


158 


GAMING — IIAIQUA — MBDICAL  TREATMENT. 


I*' 


unparalleled  patience  and  perseverance  continued  their  tedious 
and  laborious  undertaking  until  their  domicile  was  roofed,  or  their 
canoe  fit  to  encounter  the  turbulent  waves  of  the  Columbia. 

As  their  chief  source  of  subsistence  depends  on  their  fisheries, 
they  pay  great  attention  to  their  nets,  in  the  manufacture  of  which 
they  exhibit  their  usual  ingenuity.  They  occasionally  fish  with 
the  hook  and  line.  They  make  use  of  the  common  straight  net, 
the  scooping  or  dipping  net,  and  the  gig.  Lewis  and  Clarke 
mention  that  "  the  first  is  of  different  lengths  and  depths,  and 
used  in  taking  salmon,  carr,  and  trout,  in  the  deep  inlets  among 
the  marshy  grounds,  and  the  mouths  of  deep  creeks.  The 
scooping  net  is  used  for  small  fish  in  the  spring  and  summer 
season  ;  and  in  both  kinds  the  net  is  formed  of  silk  grass,  or  the 
bark  of  white  cedar.  The  gig  is  used  at  all  seasons,  and  for  all 
kinds  of  fish  they  can  procure  with  it ;  so  too  is  the  hook  and 
line ;  of  which  the  line  is  made  of  the  same  material  as  the  net, 
and  the  hook  generally  brought  by  the  traders ;  though  before 
ihe  whites  came  they  made  hooks  out  of  two  small  pieces  of 
bokte,  resembling  the  European  hook,  but  with  a  much  more 
acute  angle,  where  the  two  pieces  were  joined."  ,.  i 

Gambling  is  one  of  their  most  incorrigible  vices ;  and  so  invetC'- 
rately  are  they  attached  to  it,  tiiat  the  unfortunate  gamester  often 
finds -himself  stripped  of  slaves,  beads,  haiqua,  and  even  nets. 
Their  common  game  is  a  simple  kind  of  hazard.  One  man 
takes  a  small  stone  which  he  changes  for  some  time  from  hand 
to  hand,  all  the  while  humming  a  slow  monotonous  air.  The 
bet  is  then  made ;  and  according  as  his  adversary  succeeds  in 

Siessing  the  hand  in  which  the  stone  is  concealed,  he  wins  or 
ses.  They  seldom  cheat ;  and  submit  to  their  losses  with  the 
most  philosophical  resignation. 

Haiqua,  which  I  have  so  often  mentioned,  is  a  white  round  shell 
of  extreme  hardness,  varying  from  one  to  four  inches  in  length, 
and  from  three-eighths  to  half  an  inch  in  circumference.  It  is 
hollow,  slightly  curveu,  and  tapers  a  little  towards  the  ends. 
These  shells  are  highly  estimated,  the  longest  being  the  most 
valuable.  They  are  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Nootka,  and 
form  an  important  article  of  local  traffic.  The  Indians  regulate 
the  prices  of  their  various  articles  by  haiqua ;  a  fathom  of  the 
best  description  being  equal  in  value  to  ten  good  beaver  skins. 

The  most  enlightened  nations  are  inundated  with  charlatans ; 
it  is  therefore  not  surprising  they  should  flourish  among  rude 
barbarians.  Every  Indian  village  has  its  quack  doctor ;  or,  as 
they  call  him,  "  the  strong  man  of  medicine."  The  moment  a 
native  is  attacked  with  sickness,  no  matter  of  what  desciiption, 
the  physician  is  sent  for.  He  immediately  commences  opera- 
tions by  stretching  the  patient  on  his  back ;  while  a  number  of  his 
friends  and  relations  eurround  him,  each  carrying  a  long  and  a 


iM; 


■■■■miKj'^wii^ 


NMP<L|IK,!'pttl^.* 


t^ 


QUACKERY — FUNERAL  RITES. 


159 


short  8tick,'with  which  they  beat  time  to  a  mournful  air  which  the 
doctor  chants,  and  in  which  they  join  at  intervals.  Sometimes 
a  slave  is  despatched  to  the  roof  of  the  house,  which  he  bela- 
bours most  energetically  with  his  drum-sticks,  joining  at  the  same 
time  with  a  loud  voice  the  chorus  inside.  The  man  of  medicine 
then  kneels,  and  presses  with  all  his  force  his  two  fists  on  the 
patient's  stomach.     The  unfortunate  man,  tortured  with  the  pain 

Eroduced  by  this  violent  operation,  utters  the  most  piercing  cries ; 
ut  his  voice  is  drowned  by  the  doctor  and  the  bystanders,  who 
chant  loud  and  louder  still  the  iiighty  "  song  of  medicine." 

At  the  end  of  each  stanza  the  operator  seizes  the  patient's 
hands,  which  he  joins  together  and  blows  on.  lie  thus  continues 
alternately  pressing  and  blowing  until  a  small  white  stone,  which 
he  had  previously  placed  in  the  patient's  mouth,  is  forced  out. 
This  he  exhibits  with  a  triumphant  air  to  the  man's  relations ; 
and  with  all  the  confidence  and  pomposity  of  modem  quackery, 
assures  them  the  disease  is  destroyed,  and  that  the  patient  must 
undoubtedly  recover.  Mr.  Franchere  states  he  has  seen  some 
of  them  carefully  envelop  the  small  stone,  which  they  call  the 
source  of  evil,  in  a  piece  of  cedar  bark,  and  throw  it  into  the 
fire. 

It  frequently  happens  that  a  man,  who  might  have  been  cured 
by  a  simple  dose  of  medicine,  is  by  this  abominable  system  de- 
stroyed ;  but  whether  recovery  or  death  be  the  consequence,  the 
quack  is  equally  recompensed.  Some  of  the  more  intelligent 
undoubtedly  perceive  the  imposition  which  these  fellows  prac- 
tise ;  but  the  great  faith  which  the  ignorant  and  superstitious 
multitude  have  in  their  skill  deters  any  man  from  exposing  their 
knavery.  Latterly,  however,  numbers  of  their  sick  have  applied 
for  relief  and  assistance  at  Fort  George ;  and  as  our  prescrip- 
tions have  been  generally  attended  with  success,  their  belief  m 
the  infallibility  of  those  jugglers  has  been  considerably  weak- 
ened. 

From  the  doctor  to  death,  the  charlatan  to  the  coffin,  the 
transition  is  not  unnatural.  When  a  Chinook  dies,  it  matters 
not  whether  from  natural  causes  or  the  effects  of  quackery,  his 
remains  are  deposited  in  a  small  canoe,  the  body  being  p/e- 
viously  enveloped  in  skins  or  mats.  His  bow,  arrows,  and  oth<?r 
articles  are  laid  by  his  side.  The  canoe  is  then  placed  on  a  high 
platform  near  the  river's  side,  or  on  rocks  out  of  the  reach  of 
the  tide,  and  other  mats  tied  over  it.  If  the  relations  of  the 
deceased  can  afibrd  it,  they  place  a  larger  canoe  reversed  over 
the  one  containing  his  body,  and  both  are  firmly  tied  together. 
His  wives,  relatives,  and  slaves  go  into  mourning  by  cutting  their 
hair ;  and  for  some  time  after  his  death  repair  twice  a  day,  at  the 
rising  and  setting  of  the  sun,  to  an  adjoining  wood,  to  chant  his 
funeral  dii^e. 

m 


■-^1 


:^^ 


100 


BIVOVACfK — PILFBRINO« 


IF" 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Voyage  to  the  interior — Party  attaclced,  and  one  man  killed — Arrive  at 
Spokan  House — Joy  of  the  Indians  at  our  return — The  chiePs  speech — 
Sketch  of  Mr.  M'Donald — Duel  prevented  between  him  and  a  chief — 
Kettle  Indians ;  their  surprise  at  seeing  white  men — Curious  account  of  an 
hermaphrodite  chief— Death  of  Jacques  Hoole. 

On  the  5th  of  August,  1814,  we  left  Fort  George.  Our  party, 
including  proprietors  and  clerks,  consisted  of  sixty  men,  in  nine 
heavily  loaded  canoes.  We  arrived  early  the  third  day  at  the 
foot  of  the  rapids.  It  vv^as  here  our  men  had  been  robbed  the 
preceding  autumn  ;  and  here  also  Mr.  Stewart's  party  had  been 
attacked,  and  himself  wounded  the  following  winter.  We 
therefore  took  more  than  usual  precautions,  and  formed  t  strong 
guard  to  protect  the  carriers.  The  natives  were  numerous,  but 
evinced  no  disposition  to  be  troublesome.  As  the  chief  did  not 
appear  with  the  flag,  a  party  proceeded  to  the  village  and 
inquired  for  him.  They  were  told  he  was  absent  from  home. 
The  Indian  whom  we  suspected  of  having  fired  at  Michel  was 
also  invisible.  Their  nonappearance  looked  rather  suspicious, 
and  induced  us  to  be  douoiy  cautious.  By  hard  labour  we 
finished  the  portage  in  one  day,  and  encamped  at  the  upper  end. 
We  arranged  the  goods  and  canoes  in  such  a  manner  as  to  pre- 
vent a  surprise,  and  the  whole  party  was  divided  into  tvo 
watches.  At  intervals  during  the  night  we  heard  footsteps 
among  the  rocks,  and  in  the  woods ;  but  it  passed  over  quietly, 
and  at  daybreak  we  commenced  reloading.  A  few  of  the 
natives  came  to  us  unarmed,  and  brought  with  them  some  fish 
and  roots,  which  we  purchased ;  and  having  distributed  some 
tobacco  among  them,  pushed  off.  The  day  after  we  raached 
the  narrows  and  falls  in  safety. 

When  the  last  portage  had  been  nearly  finished,  numbers  of 
the  Eneeshurs  collected  about  us,  and  became  very  troublesome. 
They  made  several  attempts  to  pilfer,  and  we  were  constrained 
to  use  some  violence  to  keep  them  in  check.  We  asked  repeat- 
edly for  the  chief;  but  were  answered  that  he  was  in  the  plains 
hunting :  this  we  did  not  believe,  and  finding  that  they  still  per- 
severed in  seizing  every  loose  article  they  could  pick  up,  we 
were  obliged  to  order  corporeal  punishment  to  be  inflicted  on 
three  of  the  ringleaders.  They  went  away  followed  by  a  nu- 
merous party  of  their  friends.  Their  looks  betokened  revenge ; 
and  the  few  who  remained  told  us  to  be  on  oar  guard,  as  they 


# 
.* 


"t:, 


NIOHT    ATTACK LOS8   OP   LIFE. 


161 


heard  the  others  talking  m  a  threatening  manner.  We  there- 
fore reloaded  quickly,  and  crossed  over  to  the  opposite  side.  It 
was  high  and  rocky,  and  possessed  many  points  Irom  which  an 
enemy  could  attack  us  with  effect.  The  daylight  was  fast 
receding ;  every  one  lent  a  hand  to  work  the  canoes,  and  still 
no  place  presented  itself  at  which  we  could  land  with  safety. 
With  much  difficulty  and  labour  we  at  length  reached  the  long 
rocky  island  already  mentioned ;  and  as  it  was  then  quite  dark, 
we  had  no  alternative  but  to  land  in  a  small  sandy  bay,  sur- 
rounded by  high  craggy  rocks,  of  which  the  island  was  chiefly 
composed.  We  could  not  procure  any  wood,  and  were  obliged 
to  dine  and  sup  on  some  cold  boiled  rice  which  had  been  left 
from  morning.  It  was  judged  advisable  not  to  pitch  the  tents ; 
and  we  slept  on  the  beach  behind  the  bales  and  cases  of  mer- 
chandise in  rather  an  irregular  manner.  The  first  watch,  to 
which  I  belonged,  passed  over  tranquilly ;  and  we  retired  to 
sleep  at  midnight,  on  being  relieved  by  the  second. 

Our- repose  was  not  of  long  continuance.  About  half  an 
hour  before  daybreak  the  cry  of  Les  sauvages  nous  Jlcchent ! 
lies  sauvages  nousjlechent  !*  rung  in  our  ears,  followed  by  the 
report  of  several  shots.  Every  man  instantly  seized  his  arms, 
and  W8  discharged  a  volley  at  a  rocky  eminence  which  com- 
manded the  little  bay, and  fiom  which  the  enemy  had  fired  down 
on  our  sentinels.  This  dislodged  the  savages ;  but  owing  to  the 
darkness  of  the  morning,  and  our  ignorance  of  the  interior  of 
the  island,  we  did  not  think  it  prudent  to  pursue  them. 

It  was  impossible  to  ascertain  whether  any  of  our  balls  had 
taken  effect  on  the  enemy  ;  and  apprehensive  of  another  attack 
in  a  spot  so  badly  calculated  for  defence,  and  in  which  we  were 
completely  exposed,  orders  were  given  to  load  the  canoes.  In 
the  hurry  attendant  upon  this  operation  we  did  not  at  first  miss 
one  of  our  men,  named  Baptiste  L'Amoureux,  whom  A^e  found 
lying  wounded  at  the  farther  end  of  the  bay,  at  which  he  had 
been  posted  as  a  sentinel.  His  moans  conducted  us  to  tlie  spot. 
A  ball  had  passed  through  the  left  breast,  and  came  out  near  the 
shoulder.  Every  assistance  was  rendered  him,  but  in  vain  ;  he 
never  uttered  a  word ;  and  ere  the  morning  dawned  he  had 
ceased  to  breathe.  We  did  not  before  imagine  these  savages 
had  any  fire-arms  among  them  ;  but  this  event  showed  ive  had 
been  mistaken. 

No  other  fatality  occurred,  although  several  of  the  party  had 
w(  iderful  escapes.  An  arrow  passed  through  the  collar  of  one 
man's  coat,  and  the  nightcap  of  another  was  pierced  through. 
Mr.  I^  Rocque  and  I  slept  together,  and  an  arrow  penetrated 


*" 


The  savages  are  shooting  at  as  with  arrow*. 

u 


t 


■^p* 


102 


JOURNEY   RESUMED — EXAOOERATION0. 


six  inches  into  the  ground  between  our  necks.  Our  safety  may 
in  a  great  degree  be  attributed  to  a  number  of  the  arrows  having 
been  intercepted  by  the  bales  and  cases  of  trading  goods. 

The  canoes  were  quiciily  loaded,  and  at  daybreak  we  pushed 
off  from  this  dangerous  spot.  As  we  paddled  up  the  south  side 
of  the  river,  some  arrows  were  discharged  at  us  from  the  island. 
We  fired  u  few  shots  in  return  ;  but  from  the  manner  the  assail- 
ants were  covered,  we  conjectured  our  balls  fell  harmless. 

On  nearing  the  upper  end  of  t..j  island,  we  caught  a  passing 
view  of  forty  or  fifty  of  the  savages  not  more  than  two  hundred 
yards  distant.  Orders  were  immediately  given  to  those  who 
had  their  guns  ready  to  fire ;  but  before  a  trigger  was  pulled 
they  had  vanished.  We  landed  at  the  spot ;  and  a  few  of  us, 
who  ascended  the  rocks,  observed  them  at  a  considerable  distance 
running  like  hunted  deer.  We  discharged  a  few  random  shots 
after  them,  upon  which  we  re-embarked,  and  proceeded  on  our 
voyage.  At  half  past  eight  we  put  ashore  at  a  low  sandy  point 
covered  with  willows  and  cotton  wood,  for  the  purpose  of  break- 
fasting and  interring  the  body  of  L'Amoureux.  The  men  were 
immediately  set  to  work  to  dig  a  grave,  into  which  were  lowered 
the  remains  of  the  unfortunate  Canadian.  A  few  short  prayers 
were  said  in  French ;  and  after  the  earth  was  thrown  in,  to  a  level 
with  the  surface,  it  was  covered  over  with  dry  sand  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  keep  the  natives  in  ignorance  of  the  occurrence. 

We  remained  here  a  few  hours  to  refit,  at  the  end  of  which 
we  resumed  our  journey.  We  saw  no  Indians  during  the 
remainder  of  the  day,  and  encamped  late  on  a  low  stony  island, 
above  a  rapid,  on  which  we  found  plenty  of  drift  wood.  The 
following  day  we  passed  a  few  villages  of  the  friendly  tribes, 
from  whom  we  purchased  some  horses  for  the  kettle.  From 
hence  to  the  Wallah  Wallahs,  with  whom  we  stopped  one  day, 
nothing  particular  occurred.  They  received  us  m  their  usual 
friendly  manner ;  and  on  inquiring  from  them  to  what  tribe  the 
Indians  belonged  who  had  given  my  small  party  such  a  chase 
the  preceding  autumn,  they  replied  that  they  were  relatives  of 
the  man  who  had  been  hanged  by  Mr.  Clarke  on  Lewis  River, 
and  were  part  of  the  Upper  Nez  Perces ;  that  they  were  very 
bad  people,  much  addicted  to  thieving,  and  that  we  should  be 
very  cautious  how  we  fell  in  their  way,  as  they  had  .vowed  to 
kill  a  white  man  as  a  satisfaction  for  the  death  of  their  relation. 

We  met  a  few  of  the  Nez  Perces  at  the  mouth  of  Lewis  ^ 
River :  they  appeared  friendly,  and  sold  us  some  horses.  From 
this  place  nothing  particular  occurred  until  the  23d  of  August, 
on  which  day  we  arrived  at  Oakinagan.  The  news  of  the  attack 
had  preceded  us,  accompanied  by  the  usual  exaggerations  of 
Indians.    Mr.  Ross,  who  was  in  charge  of  that  establishment. 


I    . 


'^^IL 


INDIAN   HARANGUE. 


163 


informed  us  that  the  first  intelligence  he  received  stated  that  ten 
white  men  and  twenty  Indiana  had  been  killed.  By  other 
accounts  our  loss  was  varied  from  fifleen  to  twenty,  and  one 
statement  destroyed  half  the  party,  and  sent  the  remainder  back 
to  the  sea,  with  the  loss  of  all  the  goods. 

From  this  place  Mr.  Keith  proceeded  with  despatches  to  the 
other  side  of  the  mountains ;  and  the  various  parties  separated 
for  their  summer  destinations.  Mine  was  Spokan  House,  in 
company  with  Messrs.  Stewart,  M'Millan,  and  M'Donald.  We 
left  Oakinagan  on  the  27th,  and  reached  Spokan  on  the  31st  of 
August.  The  trading  goods  had  been  exhausted  long  before, 
ana  the  Indians  had  been  upwards  of  two  months  without  ammu- 
nition.    Our  arrival,  therefore,  was  hailed  with  great  joy. 

The  whole  tribe  assembled  round  the  fort,  and  viewed  with 
delight  the  kegs  of  powder  and  the  bales  of  tobacco  as  they  were 
unloaded  from  the  horses.  A  large  circle  was  formed  in  the 
court-yard,  into  the  centre  of  which  we  entered ;  and  having  lit 
the  friendly  calumet,  smoked  a  few  rounds  to  celebrate  the 
meeting.  A  quantity  of  tobacco  was  then  presented  to  each  of 
the  men,  and  the  chief  delivered  a  long  oration ;  part  of  which, 
addressing  us,  ran  as  follows : — 

"  My  heart  is  glad  to  see  you :  my  heart  is  glad  to  see  you. 
We  were  a  long  time  very  hungry  for  tobacco ;  and  some  of  our 
young  men  said  you  would  never  come  back.  They  were  angry, 
and  said  to  me, '  The  white  men  made  us  love  tobacco  almost 
as  much  as  we  love  our  children,  and  now  we  are  starving  for 
it.  They  brought  us  their  wonderful  guns,  which  we  traded 
from  them ;  we  threw  by  our  arrows  as  useless,  because  we 
knew  they  were  not  so  strong  to  kill  the  deer  as  the  guns ;  and 
now  we  are  idle  with  our  guns,  as  the  white  men  have  no  fire- 
powder,  or  balls,  to  give  us,  and  we  have  broken  our  arrows,  and 
almost  forgotten  how  to  use  them :  the  white  men  are  very  bad, 
and  have  deceived  us.'  But  I  spoke  to  theni,  and  I  said.  You 
are  fools ;  you  have  no  patience.  The  white  men's  big  canoes 
are  a  long  time  coming  over  the  Stinking  Lake*  that  divides 
their  country  from  ours.  They  told  me  on  going  away  that  they 
would  come  back,  and  I  know  they  would  not  tell  lies."  Then 
turning  to  his  countrymen,  he  continued, "  Did  I  not  tell  you  that 
the  white  men  would  not  tell  lies  ?  You  are  fools,  great  fools, 
and  have  no  patience.  Let  us  now  show  our  joy  at  meeting 
our  friends ;  and  to-morrow  let  all  our  hunters  go  into  the  plains, 
and  up  the  hills,  and  kill  birds  and  deer  for  the  good  white  men." 
They  then  commenced  dancing,  jumping,  and  crying  out  in  a 
most  discordant  manner. 

>.jm      ■.  >i         »  The  Sea.    So  called  from  its  saline  qualitiej. 


-»«-*«M-«._JU  .  -i.^'rtti^ 


164 


LIVE-STOCK nF.TEROGGNEOUS  UNOVIST. 


The  good  white  men,  the  good  while  men, 
Our  hearts  aro  glad  for  the  good  white  men. 

Tlie  good  whilo  men,  the  good  white  men, 
Danco  and  sing  for  the  good  white  men. 


Then  giving  three  chet^rs,  something  like  the  "  Hip,  hip,  hurra  T 
of  our  domestic  bacchanalians,  they  retireil  to  the  village. 

The  next  morning  the  hunters  procured  a  fresh  stock  of  am- 
munition, and,  for  some  weeks  following,  our  table  was  plenti- 
fully supplied  with  excellent  grouse,  wild  geese,  and  ducks,  in 
prime  order.  We  had  planted  the  year  before  some  turnips, 
potatoes,  cabbage,  and  other  esculents,  which  yielded  a  pretty 
good  crop.  The  quantity  was  increased  the  following  spring ; 
and  this  autumn  \ve  had  an  abundance  of  these  vegetables. 
We  had  brought  up  a  cock,  three  hens,  three  goats,  and  three 
hogs.  The  Indians  were  quite  astonished  at  beholding  them. 
They  called  the  fowl  "  the  white  men's  grouse ;"  th^  goats  were 
denominated  "  the  white  men's  deer ;"  and  the  swine  *'  the  white 
men's  bears."  They  inquired  if  animals  of  the  above  descrip- 
tion were  all  tame  in  our  country  ;  and  on  being  answered  in  the 
afHrmativc,  they  asked,  if  they  caught  some  of  those  to  which 
they  compared  them,  could  we  tame  them  in  a  similar  manner  ? 
we  told  them  to  catch  a  few  young  ones,  and  we  would  make 
the  attempt.  A  young  bear  was  shortly  secured  :  he  was  tied  in 
the  stye  with  the  pigs,  and  fed  daily  by  one  of  our  Canadians, 
of  whom  he  became  very  fond,  and  who  in  a  short  time  taught 
him  to  dance,  beg,  and  play  many  tricks,  which  delighted  the 
Indians  exceedingly. 

While  we  were  here  a  curious  incident  occurred  between 
Mr.  M' Donald  and  an  Indian ,  which  I  shall  preface  by  a  short 
account  of  the  former.  He  belonged  to  a  highly  respectable 
family,  which  emigrated  from  Inverness-shire  to  Canada  while 
he  was  a  lad.  His  first  accents  were  lisped  in  Gaelic  ;  but  in 
the  capital  of  the  Highlands,  so  celebrated  for  its  pure  English,  he 
made  considerable  progress  in  our  language.  On  arriving  in 
Canada  he  was  obliged  to  learn  French,  in  which  he  had  made 
some  proficiency,  when  he  joined  the  North-west  Company  as 
on  apprentice-clerk.  At  the  period  I  speak  of  he  had  been  ten 
years  absent  from  Canada,  and  had  travelled  over  an  immense 
extent  of  Indian  country.  He  seldom  remained  more  than  one 
winter  at  any  particular  place,  and  had  a  greater  facility  of  ac- 
quiring than  01  retaining  the  language  of  the  various  tribes  with 
whom  he  came  in  contact.  He  was  subject  to  temporary  fits 
of  abstraction,  during  which  the  country  of  his  auditory  was 
forgotten,  and  their  lingual  knowledge  set  at  defiance  by  the 
most  strange  and  ludicrous  melange  of  Gaelic,  English,  French, 
and  half  a  dozen  Indian  dialects.    Whenever  any  thing  occur- 


/ 


// 


i( 


f 


: 


// 


SQUABBLE — CVltlOVfl   DIALOOVB. 

red  to  ruflle  his  temper,  it  was  highly  amusing  to  hear  him  sive 
vent  to  his  passion  in  Diiiouls,  God  i — s,  Sacrvs,  and  invocation* 
of  the  "evil  spirit"  in  Indian  :  he  was,  however,  a  good-natured, 
inoffensive  companion,  easily  irritated,  and  as  easily  appeased. 
His  appearance  was  very  striking :  in  height  he  was  six  feet 
four  inches,  with  broad  shoulders,  large  bushy  whiskers,  and  red 
hair,  which  for  some  years  hud  not  felt  the  scissors,  and  which 
sometimes  falling  over  his  face  and  shoulders,  gave  to  his  coun* 
tenanco  a  wild  and  uncouth  appearance.  He  had  taken  a  Spo- 
kan  wife,  by  whom  he  had  two  children.  A  great  portion  of 
his  leisure  time  was  spent  in  the  company  of  her  relations,  by 
whom,  and  indeed  by  the  Indians  in  general,  he  was  highly  be- 
loved :  their  affection,  however,  was  chastened  by  a  moderate 
degree  of  fear,  with  which  his  gigantic  body  and  indomitable 
bravery  inspired  them. 

One  day  as  we  were  sitting  down  to  dinner,  one  of  our  men, 
followed  by  a  native,  rushed  into  the  dining-room,  and  requested 
we  would  instantly  repair  to  the  village  to  prevent  bloodshed, 
as  Mr.  M'Donald  was  about  to  fi^ht  a  duel  with  one  of  the 
chiefs.  We  ran  to  the  scene  of  action,  and  found  our  friend  sur- 
rounded by  a  number  of  Indians,  all  of  whom  kept  at  a  respect- 
ful distance.  He  had  his  fowling-piece,  which  he  changed 
from  one  hand  to  the  other,  and  appeared  violently  chafed. 
The  chief  stood  about  twenty  yards  from  him,  and  the  follow- 
ing colloquy  took  place  between  them,  which,  for  the  information 
01  my  unlearned  readers,  I  shall  translate. 

M'D.— "Come  on,  now,  you  rascal!  you  toad!  you  dog! 
Will  you  fight?" 

Indian. — "  I  will : — but  you  're  a  foolish  man.  A  chief  should 
not  be  passionate.  I  always  thought  the  white  chiefs  were  wise 
men." 

M'D. — "I  want  none  of  your  jaw:  I  say  you  cheated  me. 
You're  a  dog !     Will  you  fight  ?" 

Indian. — "  You  are  not  wise.  You  get  angry  like  a  woman ; 
but  I  will  fight      Let  us  go  to  the  wood.    Are  you  ready?" 

M'D. — "Why,  you  d — d  rascal,  what  do  you  mean  ?  I'll 
fight  you  here.  Take  your  distance  like  a  brave  man,  face  to 
face,  and  we  'II  draw  lots  for  the  first  shot,  or  fire  together,  which- 
ever you  please." 

Indian. — "  You  are  a  greater  fool  than  I  thought  you  were. 
Who  ever  heard  of  a  wise  warrior  standing  before  his  enemy's 
gun  to  be  shot  at  like  a  dog  ?  No  one  but  a  fool  of  a  white  man 
would  do  so." 

M'D. — "What  do  you  mean  ?  What  way  do  you  want  to  fight?** 

Indian. — "  The  way  that  all  red  warriors  fight.  Let  us  take 
our  guns,  and  retire  to  yonder  wood  ;  place  yourself  behind  one 


// 


« 


jtlw... 


166 


AKETCII   OF    CIIARACTKR. 


tree,  and  I  will  tnko  my  stand  behind  another,  and  then  v/e  shall 
■ee  who  will  shoot  the  otiier  first !" 

M*D. — "  You  are  nfraid,  und  you're  n  coward." 

Indian. — "  I  am  not  afraid  ;  and  you're  a  fool." 

M*I). — "  Come  then,  d — n  my  eyes  if  I  care.  Here's  at  you 
your  own  way."  And  he  was  about  proceeding  to  the  wood, 
when  we  interfered,  had  the  combatants  disarmed,  and  after 
much  entreaty  induced  our  brave  Gael  to  return  to  the  fort. 

The  quarrel  originated  in  a  gambling  transaction,  in  which 
M'Donald  imagined  he  had  been  cheated,  und  under  that  im- 
pression struck  the  chief,  and  called  him  a  rogue.  The  latter 
told  him  he  took  advantage  of  his  si/.c  and  strength,  and 
that  he  would  not  meet  him  on  equal  terms  with  his  gun.  This 
imputation  roused  all  his  ire.  lie  instantly  darted  into  the  field 
with  his  fowling-piece,  followed  by  the  chief,  when  by  our  arri- 
val we  prevented  an  encounter  which  in  all  probabdity  would 
have  proved  fatal  to  i/ur  friend. 

The  gigantic  figure,  long  red  flowing  locks,  foaming  mouth, 
and  violent  gesticulation  of  M'Donald,  presented  a  striking  ond 
characteristic  contrast  to  the  calm  and  immutable  features  of 
the  chieftain.  His  inflexible  countenance  was,  for  a  moment, 
disturbed  by  something  like  a  smile,  when  he  told  his  opponent 
that  no  one  but  a  fool  would  stand  before  a  gun  to  be  shot  at  like 
a  dog.  In  fact,  M'Donald's  proposition  appeared  to  him  so 
much  at  variance  with  his  received  notions  of  wisdom,  that  he 
could  not  comprehend  how  any  man  in  his  senses  could  make 
such  an  offer.  On  explaining  to  him  afterward  the  civilized 
mode  of  deciding  gentlemanly  quarrels,  he  manifested  the  utmost 
incredulity,  and  declared  that  he  could  not  conceive  how  people 
so  wise  in  other  respects,  should  be  guilty  of  such  foolishness. 
But  when  we  assured  him  in  the  most  positive  manner  that  we 
were  stating  facts,  he  shook  his  head,  and  said,  "  I  see  plainly 
there  are  fools  every  where." 

M'Donald  was  a  most  extraordinary  and  original  character. 
To  the  gentleness  of  a  lamb  he  united  the  courage  of  a  lion. 
He  was  particularly  affectionate  to  men  of  small  size,  whether 
equals  or  inferiors,  and  would  stand  their  bantering  with  the 
utmost  good-humour :  but  if  any  man  approaching  his  own 
altitude  presumed  to  encroach  too  far  on  his  good-nature,  a 
lowering  look  and  distended  nostrils  warned  the  intruder  of  an 
approaching  eruption. 

One  of  our  Canadian  voyageurs,  named  Bazil  Lucie,  a  re- 
markably strong  man,  about  six  feet  three  inches  high,  with  a 
muscular  frame,  and  buffalo  neck,  once  said  something  which  he 
thought  bordered  on  disrespect.  Any  man  under  five  feet  ten 
might  have  made  use  of  the  same  language  with  impunity,  but 


.:       d 


y-'- 


FisTY-curra — indian  war»aii£. 


1«7 


from  such  a  man  uh  Lucie,  who  was  n  kind  of  bully  over  his 
comraden,  it  could  not  bu  borne ;  ho  uccordinuly  told  him  to 
hold  his  tongue,  and  threatened  to  chastise  him  if  he  said 
another  woni.  This  was  said  before  several  of  the  men,  and 
Lucie  replied  by  saying  that  he  mifht  thank  the  situation  ho 
held  for  tiis  safety,  or  he  should  have  satisfaction  sur  Ic  cluimp. 
M'Donald  instantly  fired,  and  asked  him  if  he  would  fight  with 
musket,  sword,  or  pistol ;  but  Lucie  declared  he  had  no  notion 
of  fighting  in  that  manner,  ailding  that  his  only  weapons  wert 
his  fists.  The  pugnacious  Celt  resolving  not  to  leave  him  any 
chance  of  cjcape,  stripped  otT  his  coat,  culled  him  un  enfant  He 
chiennc,  and  challenged  him  to  fig'it  coinmc  un  jxUissun.  Lucio 
immediately  obeyed  the  call,  and  *o  work  they  fell.  I  was  not 
present  at  the  combat ;  but  some  of  the  men  told  me  that  in  less 
than  ten  minutes  Bazil  was  completely  disabled,  and  was  unfit 
to  work  for  some  weeks  after. 

M'Donald  frequently,  for  the  mere  love  of  fighting,  accom- 
panied the  Flat-heads  in  their  war  excurs'  ins  against  the  Black- 
feet.  His  eminent  bravery  endeared  l^m  to  the  whole  tribe, 
and  in  all  matters  relating  to  warfare  his  word  was  a  law.  The 
folowing  anecdote,  which  was  related  to  me  by  several  Indians, 
will  at  once  show  his  steady  courage  and  recklessness  of  danger. 
In  the  summer  of  1812,  at  the  bufl'alo  plains,  they  fell  in  with  a 
strong  party  of  the  Black-feet,  and  a  severe  co.:test  ensued. 
M'Donald  was  to  be  seen  in  eveiy  direction,  in  the  hottest  of 
the  fire,  cheering  and  animating  his  friends ;  and  they  at  len^h 
succeeded  in  driving  the  Black-feet  to  take  shelter  in  a  thick 
cluster  of  trees,  from  whence  they  kept  up  a  constant  and  galling 
fire  on  the  Flat-heads,  by  which  a  few  were  killed,  and  several 
wounded.  In  vain  he  exerted  all  his  influence  to  induce  his 
friends  to  storm  the  trees,  and  drive  the  enemy  from  their  cover. 
Their  mode  of  attack  was  extremely  foolish,  and  productive  of 
no  benefit  ;  for  each  warrior  advanced  opposite  to  the  spot 
from  whence  the  Black-feet  fired,  and  after  discharging  a 
random  shot  into  the  group  of  trees,  instantly  galloped  away. 
M'Donald,  vexed  at  this  puerile  method  of  fighting,  offered  to 
take  the  lead  himself  to  dislodge  the  enemy :  but,  with  the 
exception  of  the  war-chief,  they  all  refused  to  join  him.  He 
therefore  resolved  to  try  the  effect  of  example,  and  putting  his 
horse  into  a  smart  trot,  rode  opposite  to  the  place  from  whence 
the  chief  fire  of  the  Black-feet  proceeded  :  he  then  dismounted, 
took  a  deliberate  aim  at  the  head  of  a  fellow  which  had  just 

Sopped  from  behind  a  tree,  and  let  fly.  The  bullet  entered  the 
llack-foot's  mouth,  and  he  fell.  A  shower  of  balls  instantly 
whizzed  about  M'Donald  and  his  horse ;  but  he,  undismayed, 
reloaded}  while  his  friends  cried  out  and  besought  him  to  retire. 


'V.\'  >  m  m   «•>!' 


168 


NARROW   ESCAPE — THE   CHAUDIERE8. 


V- 


J"' 


He  covered  another  in  the  same  manner,  who  also  fell,  after 
which  he  calmly  remounted,  and  galloped  to  his  party  uninjured. 
A  prisoner,  who  was  subsequently  taken,  declared  that  the  only 
two  killed  of  those  who  had  taken  refuge  among  the  trees,  were 
both  shot  in  the  head  by  the  "  big  white  chief,"  as  they  termed 
our  friend.  His  friends  at  Forts  des  Prairies  repeatedly  wrote 
to  him  that  the  Black-feet  complained  greatly  of  his  having  joined 
the  Flat-heads,  who  had,  by  his  assistance  and  that  of  Michel, 
become  powerful,  and  that  they  vowed  vengeance  against  them 
if  ever  they  fell  in  their  way ;  but  M' Donald  paid  no  attention 
either  to  their  warning  or  our  entreaties.  War  was  his  glory, 
and  "piping  peace"  his  aversion.  Up  to  the  period  I  quitted  the 
Columbia  he  escaped  harmless  ;  but  I  regret  to  state  that  a  few 
years  afterward,  one  of  the  enemy's  balls  brought  him  to  the 
ground :  half-a-dozen  savages  instantly  rushed  on  him,  and  com- 
menced hacking  his  scull  with  their  tomahawks :  the  scalping- 
knife  was  in  the  act  of  beginning  its  dreadful  operation,  and  m 
a  moment  all  would  have  been  over,  had  not  the  war-chief, 
accompanied  by  a  few  friends,  dashed  to  his  assistance,  killed 
three  of  the  Black-feet,  and  rescued  their  benefactor  from 
impending  death.  He  subsequently  recovered ;  but  I  under- 
stand the  wounds  he  then  received  have  left  evident  traces 
of  their  violence  on  his  bold  and  manly  front. 

About  seven  hundred  miles  from  Fort  George,  and  ninety 
from  Spokan  House,  there  is  an  immense  fall  in  the  Columbia, 
between  sixty  and  seventy  feet  perpendicular  at  low  water,  and 
about  forty-five  in  the  spring  and  early  part  of  the  summer, 
when  the  melting  of  the  snow  contributes  to  swell  the  mighty 
torrent.  The  basin  at  the  foot  of  the  cascade  resembles  a  boil- 
ing cauldron,  in  consequence  of  which  the  fall  is  called  "  La 
Chaudi^re."  A  small  tribe,  called  "  Les  Chaudi^res,"  reside  at 
this  place :  their  village  is  situated  on  the  north  side,  just  below 
the  fall,  where  they  remain  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  They 
take  little  beaver ;  but  their  lands  are  well  stocked  with  game 
and  fish ;  there  is  also  abundance  of  wild  fruit,  such  as  choke- 
cherries,  currants,  small  strawberries,  with  black  and  blue 
berries.  They  take  vast  quantities  of  salmon,  which  they  dry 
and  preserve  for  use  during  the  winter  and  spring  months. 
Cleanliness  cannot  be  ranked  amongst  their  virtues.  Their 
habitations  are  filthy  in  the  extreme,  and  the  surrounding  atmo- 
sphere is  impregnated  with  the  most  noxious  effluvia,  produced 
by  the  piscatory  offals  which  lie  scattered  about  their  dwellings. 
I  visited  their  village  in  September  in  company  with  my  friend 
M'Donald,  his  wife,  some  of  her  relations,and  two  of  our  own  men. 
They  received  us  in  a  friendly  manner,  and  treated  us  to  abun- 
dance of  roast  and  boiled  salmon.    A  small  branch  of  this  tribe 


INDIAN  CURIOSITY — CHIEF. 


169 


reside  in  the  interior,  about  a  day  and  a  half's  march  to  the 
northward.  A  family  of  them,  consisting  of  a  father,  mother, 
and  several  children,  arrived  at  the  falls  the  day  before  us. 
They  had  never  seen  white  men,  and  their  astonishment  was 
extreme  at  the  great  contrast  exhibited  between  the  tall  raw- 
boned  figure,  and  flowing  red  hair  of  my  friend,  compared  to  the 
cropped  head,  John-Bumsh  face,  low,  and  somewhat  corpulent 
person  of  the  author.  The  old  woman  requested  to  see  my 
arms  uncovered ;  and  having  gratified  her,  she  begged  to  see 
my  breast.  I  accordingly  opened  my  shirt,  and  she  at  length 
became  satisfied  that  the  skin  was  all  white,  of  which  she  ap- 
peared previously  to  entertain  some  doubts.  Her  curiosity  was 
next  directed  to  what  she  looked  upon  as  the  supernatural  colour 
of  M'Donal»''s  hair,  and  expressed  a  wish  to  have  a  close 
examination  of  it:  he  complied,  and  having  sat  down,  she 
commenced  an  inquisitorial  search  about  its  radical  terminations, 
after  certain  animalculi,  which  shall  be  nameless.  She  appeared 
much  disappointed  at  not  finding  a  solitary  "  ferlie,"  the  absence 
of  which  she  attributed  to  the  extraordinary  colour  of  his  hair, 
which  she  said  frightened  them  away.  Then  turning  to  me, 
and  observing  mine  was  of  a  darker  hue,  she  asked  if  I  would 
allow  her  to  take  a  "  look."  I  immediately  consented ;  but  her 
eyes  and  digits  having  for  some  time  toiled  in  vain,  she  appeared 
annoyed  at  her  want  of  success,  and  rose  up  quite  vexed,  de- 
claring we  were  altogether  "  too  clean." 

We  visited  a  small  tribe,  consisting  of  not  more  than  fifteen 
families,  who  occupied  a  few  hunting  lodges  about  midway 
between  Spokan  House  and  the  Chaudiere  falls :  their  language 
is  a  dialect  of  that  spoken  by  the  natives  of  the  above  places,  but 
approaching  more  nearly  to  the  Spokan.  Their  immediate 
lands  consist  of  beautiful  open  prairies,  bounded  by  clear  woods, 
and  interspersed  with  small  rivulets  and  lakes.  The  latter  are 
visited  in  the  autumnal  months  by  numbers  of  wild  geese  and 
ducks,  and  their  hills  are  well  stocked  with  grouse.  They  are 
an  inoffensive  race,  and  received  us  with  every  demonstration 
of  friendship.  We  remained  a  week  among  them,  during  which 
period  we  had  excellent  sport.  The  aquatic  birds  were  large 
and  fat ;  and  the  grouse  much  beyond  ours  in  size  ;  and  so  tame, 
that  they  seldom  took  wing  until  we  approached  within  a  few 
yards  of  them. 

The  chief  of  this  tribe  is  an  extraordinary  being.  The  In- 
dians allege  that  he  belongs  to  the  epicene  gender.  He  wears  a 
woman's  dress,  overloaded  with  a  profusion  of  beads,  thimbles, 
and  small  shells ;  add  to  which,  the  upper  part  of  the  face  and 
the  manner  of  wearing  the  hair  are  quite  feminine ;  but  these 
appearances  are  more  than  counterbalanced  by  a  rough  beard, 


(fi ' 


f:. 


h 


170 


MORAL  PHILOSOPHT. 


and  a  masculine  tone  of  voice,  which  would  seem  to  set  his 
virility  beyond  dispute.  He  never  gambles  or  associates  with 
either  sex,  and  he  is  regarded  with  a  certain  portion  f  fear  and 
awe  by  both  men  ^'^nd  women,  who  look  upon  him  as  something 
more  than  human.  He  has  a  calm  and  ^^ather  stern  countenance, 
and  I  never  observed  any  tendency  towards  a  relaxation  of  his 
risible  muscles.  He  is  usually  attended  by  two  or  three  children, 
to  whom  he  pays  great  attention.  Their  chief  occupation  is  to 
catch  his  horses,  collect  provisions,  make  fires,  and  cook  his 
meals.  When  they  attain  a  proper  age,  he  gives  them  a  portion, 
gets  them  married,  and  dismisses  them  ;  after  which  he  selects 
from  the  largest  and  poorest  families  a  fiesh  set  of  juvenile  do- 
mestics :  their  parents  make  no  opposition,  and  are  glad  to  get 
them  so  well  provided  for. 

This  chief  possesses  a  large  number  of  horses,  some  of  which 
are  the  finest  in  the  country.  We  purchased  a  few,  and  found 
him  liberal  in  his  dealings.  He  is  free  from  the  canting  hypo- 
crisy so  common  among  Indians ;  and  if  he  finds  any  of  his 
young  attendants  tell  a  lie,  or  prevaricate  in  the  least,  the  offender 
IS  punished  by  a  flogging  and  sent  home,  after  which  no  consid- 
eration whatever  would  induce  him  to  take  back  the  delinquent. 

He  seldom  visited  our  fort ;  but  whenever  we  called  on  him 
we  were  received  with  a  degree  of  courteous  hospitality  which 
I  never  experienced  elsewhere.  He  was  communicative,  and 
inquisitive,  and  ridiculed  the  follies  of  the  Indians  in  the  most 
philosophical  manner.  Of  these  he  inveighed  principally  against 
gambling,  and  their  improvident  thoughtlessness  in  neglecting  to 
provide,  during  the  summer  and  autumnal  months,  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  dried  salmon  for  the  spring,  which  is  the  season  of 
scarcity ;  by  which  neglect  they  have  been  frequently  reduced 
to  starvation.  He  had  heard  of  M'Donald's  quarrel  with  the 
Indian,  which  he  adduced  as  one  of  the  bad  effects  resulting 
from  gambling,  and  added,  "  had  the  Spokan  been  mad  enough 
to  follow  the  foolish  custom  of  your  countrymen,  it  is  probable 
one  of  you  would  have  been  killed  about  a  foolish  dispute  arising 
out  of  a  bad  practice,  which  every  wise  man  should  avoid." 

He  inquired  particularly  about  our  form  of  government,  laws, 
customs,  marriages,  our  ideas  of  a  future  life,  &c.  Our  answers 
proved  generally  satisfactory ;  but  the  only  two  things  he  could 
not  reconcile  to  wisdom,  was  the  law  of  primogeniture,  and  the 
custom  of  duelling :  the  first,  he  said,  was  gross  injustice  ;  and 
he  thought  no  one  but  a  man  bereft  cf  his  senses  could  be  guilty 
of  the  latter.  Our  knowledge  of  hi(  language  was  necessarily 
imperfect,  owing  to  which,  the  attempts  I  made  to  explain  to 
him  some  of  the  abstruse  doctrines  of  our  religion  were  rather 
bungling ;  but  he  appeared  much  pleased  whenever  he  ascer- 


%: 


INDIAN   PHILOSOPIIER — SINOVLAR   CHARACTER. 


171 


tained  that  he  comprehended  what  I  wished  to  convey ;  and,  at 
the  conclusion  of  our  discourse,  said  he  would  be  glad  to  con- 
verse with  some  of  the  wise  men  we  call  priests  on  these  mat- 
ters, and  more  particularly  on  the  subject  of  a  future  state. 

He  is  fond  of  tobacco ;  and  the  Indians  say  they  often  see 
him  sitting  late  at  night,  enjoying  his  calumet  at  tlie  door  of  his 
tent,  and  observing  the  various  revolutions  in  the  firmament.  On 
all  subjects,  therefore,  connected  with  the  changes  of  weather, 
his  opinion  is  deemed  oracular,  and  I  understand  he  is  seldom  or 
never  mistaken  in  his  prognostications. 

Although  clothed  in  the  garments  of  a  female,  I  have  hitherto 
classed  this  uncommon  being  among  the  masculine  portion  of  the 
human  race ;  and  from  his  muscular  frame,  bushy  beard,  and 
strong  decided  tone  of  voice,  I  conceive  myself  justified  in  so 
doing.  I  never  saw  him  angry  but  once,  and  that  was  occa- 
sioned by  observing  some  private  whispering  and  tittering  going 
on  in  his  presence,  which  he  suspected  had  some  allusion  to  his 
doubtful  gender.  His  countenance  instantly  assumed  a  savage 
fierceness ;  but  he  quickly  regained  his  composure  on  finding 
the  supposed  offenders  had  changed  their  conduct. 

His  dwelling  was  covered  with  large  deer-skins,  and  was 
completely  water-proof.  The  interior  was  remarkably  clean, 
and  spread  over  with  mats.  In  one  corner  he  had  a  stock  of 
dried  provisions,  stored  in  leather  and  mat  bags,  which  in  periods 
of  scarcity  he  shared  liberally  among  the  tribe ;  in  fact  he  wanted 
nothing  that  could  add  to  his  happiness  or  comfort,  and  possessed 
a  degree  of  calm  contentment  uncommon  among  savages,  and 
v/hicn  would  put  to  the  blush  much  of  the  philosophical  wisdom 
of  civilized  man. 

While  preparing  for  our  autumnal  journey  to  the  sea,  we 
learned  that  one  of  our  free  hunters,  named  Jacques  Hoole, 
had  been  murdered  by  the  Black-feet.  His  too  was  a  character 
hors  du  commun.  He  was  a  native  of  France,  and  had  been  a 
soldier.  He  began  his  military  career  in  Scotland  in  1745,  was 
slightly  wounded  and  made  prisoner  at  Culloden ,  after  being 
exchanged  he  was  sent  to  Canada,  and  was  actively  engaged  in 
the  old  American  war.  He  was  present  in  the  battle  on  Abra- 
ham's Plains,  when  the  gallant  Wolfe  lost  his  life,  and  was  one  of 
the  men  who  assisted  in  carrying  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm  into 
Quebec,  after  he  had  received  his  death-wound. 

The  conquest  of  Canada  induced  him  to  quit  the  army :  he 
married  and  became  a  farmer.  On  the  revolutionary  war 
breaking  out,  the  gallant  veteran  bade  adieu  to  the  plough, 
became  a  sergeant  of  militia,  and  for  the  second  time  stood  the 
siege  of  Quebec ;  in  a  sorte  from  which  he  received  a  wound  in 


m 


J* 


■  •>  I 


f 


¥ 


173 


JOCRNEY  RENEWED, 


the  knee,  which  caused  a  slight  lameness  during  the  remainder 
of  his  life. 

On  the  termination  of  the  war,  misfortunes  came  crowding  on 
him.  The  republicans  had  destroyed  his  farm ;  his  wife  proved 
faithless,and  his  children  disobedient.  He  therefore  determined  to 
proceed  with  some  traders  to  the  interior  of  the  Indian  country. 
He  would  not  engage  in  the  service  of  the  Company,  but  pre- 
ferred trapping  beaver  on  his  own  account,  which  he  afterward 
disposed  of  at  the  nearest  trading  post.  This  extraordinary  old 
man  was  ninety-two  years  of  age  at  the  period  of  his  death.  I 
saw  him  the  year  before,  and  he  then  possessed  much  of  the 
lightness  and  elasticity  of  youth,  with  all  the  volatility  of  a  French- 
man. His  only  luxury  was  tobacco,  of  which  he  consumed  an 
incredible  quantity.  From  his  great  age  he  was  called  "  P6re 
Hoole."  The  Canadians  treated  him  \"ith  much  respect,  and 
their  common  salutation  of  "  Bon  jour,per€"  was  answered  by 
"  Merci,  Mirci,  man  Jils."  His  body  was  found  by  the  Flat- 
heads,  closo  to  a  beaver  dam : — a  ball  had  penetrated  his  tem- 
ples, and  the  few  white  hairs  that  remained  on  his  aged  head  did 
not  prevent  his  inhuman  butchers  from  stripping  it  of  the  scalp. 
His  clothes  remained  on  him ;  but  his  horses,  traps,  and  arms 
had  been  taken  by  the  murderers. 


m 


I    i> 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


The  party  attacked  by  the  natives  at  the  Wallah  Wallah  river — Two  killad — 
Encamp  on  an  island  i'oi  safety — Indians  demand  tv.o  white  men  as  a  sac- 
rifice— Arrival  of  a  chieftain— His  speech,  and  peace  restored, 

On  the  24th  of  October  we  proceeded  over-land  with  the 
produce  of  the  summer's  trade  to  the  Oakinagan,  where,  being 
joined  by  the  people  of  that  district,  we  embarked  for  Fort 
George,  at  which  place  we  arrived  on  the  8th  of  November. 

There  were  few  natives  at  the  fslls  or  rapids,  and  they  con- 
ducted themselves  quietly.  We  examined  the  spot  in  which 
we  had  interred  poor  LAmoureux,  and  found  it  untouched. 
The  low  state  of  the  water  at  th  «i  advanced  season  caused  us 
to  make  a  few  decJiarges,  which  v  ould  not  have  been  necessary 
in  the  summer :  it  however  enabled  us  to  shoot  down  the  great 
narrows  below  the  falls  without  taking  out  a  pack.  W\e  re- 
mained only  a  few  days  at  Fort  George,  from  which  place  we 
took  our  departure  for  the  interior  on  the  18th  of  November, 


.,« 


ATTBJ(PT   TO   PLIJNDBR — ATTACK. 


173 


l^ort 


re- 
we 


We  had  eight  canoes,  and  our  party  consisted  of  Messrs.  Keith, 
Stewart,  La  Rocque,  M'Tavish,  M'Donald,  M'Millan,  M'Kay, 
M 'Kenzie,  Montour,  and  myself.  We  had  fifty-four  canoe-men, 
including  six  Sandwich  islanders.  We  passed  in  safety  the 
places  where  hostility  was  apprehended  ;  and  the  day  after  we 
had  passed  the  falls  we  threw  by  our  leathern  armour  as  no 
longer  necessary,  and  the  men  stowed  thci  muskets  into  long 
cases,  which  were  placed  under  the  trading  goods  in  the  bottom 
of  the  canoes. 

On  arriving  a  few  miles  above  the  entrance  of  the  Wallah 
Wallah  river,  at  a  place  about  e(|uidistant  between  that  and 
Lewis  River,  a  number  of  canoes  filled  with  natives  paddled 
down  on  our  biigade,  apparently  without  any  hostile  design. 
We  were  on  the  south  side,  anH  advancing  slowly  with  the  poles. 
Mr.  Keith  was  in  the  first  canoe,  Mr.  Stewart  in  the  second, 
Messrs.  La  Rocque  and  M'Millan  in  the  third,  Messrs.  M*I»on- 
ald  and  M'Kay  in  the  fourth,  M'Tavish  and  I  in  the  fifth, 
Montour  in  the  sixth,  M'Kenzie  in  the  seventh,  and  Pierre  Mi- 
chel, the  interpreter,  in  the  eighth. 

The  Indians  at  first  asked  a  little  tobacco  from  Mr.  Keith, 
which  he  gave  them :  they  then  proceeded  to  Mr.  Stewart,  who 
also  gave  them  a  small  quantity ;  after  which  they  dropped 
down  on  Messrs.  La  Rocque  and  M'Millan,  from  whose  canoe 
they  attempted  to  take  some  goods  by  force,  but  were  repulsed 
by  the  men,  who  struck  their  hands  with  the  paddles.  They 
next  came  to  M'Donald,  and  seized  a  bale  of  tobacco  which 
was  in  the  forepart  of  his  canoe,  which  they  attempted  to  take 
out.  At  the  same  time  my  canoe  was  stopped,  as  well  as  those 
in  the  rear,  and  a  determined  resolution  was  evinced  to  plunder 
us  by  force. 

We  were  awkwardly  circumstanced  :  the  only  arms  at  hand 
were  those  in  the  possession  of  the  officers ;  and  with  the  ex- 
ception of  paddles  the  men  had  no  weapons  ready.  Anxious 
to  avoid  coming  to  extremities  as  long  as  possible,  without 
compromising  our  character,  we  endeavoured  to  keep  them  in 
check  with  Lhe  paddles ;  but  our  eflTorts  were  unavailing,  and 
some  hard  blows  were  given  and  received.  Still  we  refrained 
from  the  dernier  ressort,  and  Mr.  Keith  gave  orders  not  to  fire 
while  there  was  t.  possibility  of  preserving  the  property.  The 
fellow  who  had  seized  the  bale  in  M'Donald's  canoe  was  a  tall 
athletic  man :  he  resisted  all  their  entreaties  to  let  it  go,  and 
had  taken  it  partly  out  of  the  canoe,  when  M'Kay  gave  him  a 
severe  blow  with  the  butt  end  of  his  gun,  which  obliged  him  to 
drop  tl.e  prize.  He  instantly  placed  an  arrow  in  his  bow,  which 
he  presented  at  M'Donald ;  but  the  latter  coolly  stretched  forth 
hia  brawny  arm,  seized  the  arrow,  which  he  broke  and  threw 


d 


■J 


174 


SKIRMISH — ENCAMPMEIVT. 


I  ' 


A 


m 


f 


into  the  fellow's  face.    The  savage,  enraged  at  being  thus  foiled 


a 


was 


the  act  of  letting 


ordered  ins  canoe  i 

fly  another  arrow  when  M'JV.ay  fired,  and  hit  him  m  the  lore- 
head.  He  instantly  fell ;  upon  which  two  of  his  companions 
bent  their  bows ;  but  before  their  an'ows  had  time  to  wing  their 
flight  McDonald's  double-barrelled  gun  stopped  them.  He  shot 
one  between  the  eyes,  and  the  ball  from  the  second  barrel 
lodged  in  the  shoulder  of  the  survivor.  The  moment  they  fell 
a  shower  of  arrows  was  discharged  at  us ;  but  owing  to  the 
undulating  motion  of  their  canoes,  as  well  as  ours,  we  escaped 
uninjured.  Orders  were  now  issued  to  such  as  had  their  arms 
ready  to  fire ;  but  in  a  moment  our  assailants  became  invisible. 
After  they  had  discharged  their  arrows,  they  had  thrown  them- 
selves prostrate  in  their  canoes,  which,  drifting  rapidly  down 
the  current,  were  quickly  carried  beyond  the  reach  of  our  shot. 

We  lost  no  time  in  putting  ashore  for  the  purpose  of  arming 
the  men,  and  distributing  ammunition.  The  f:;w  Indians  who 
were  on  our  side  of  the  river  fled  on  seeing  us  land,  and  those 
who  had  gained  the  opposite  bark  fired  several  shots  at  us ;  but 
owing  to  the  great  distance  their  balls  fell  short.  The  Colum- 
bia at  this  place  was  nearly  a  mile  wide  ;  night  was  fast  approach- 
ing, and  it  was  necessary  to  select  a  proper  place  for  an  en- 
campment, at  which  we  might  remain  until  measures  should  be 
adopted  for  bringing  about  a  reconciliation  with  the  natives.  A 
short  distance  higher  up  in  the  centre  of  the  river  lay  a  narrow 
island,  about  two  miles  in  length,  quite  low,  void  of  timber,  and 
covered  with  small  stones  and  sand.  It  was  deemed  the  safest 
place  to  withstand  an  attack  or  prevent  a  surprise  ;  and  orders 
were  therefore  given  to  collect  as  much  driftwood  as  possible 
on  the  main  shore  for  the  purpose  of  cooking.  This  was  speed- 
ily eflfected,  after  which  we  pushed  off";  but  had  not  proceeded 
more  than  one  hundred  yards,  when  several  arrows  were  dis- 
charged at  us  from  the  side  we  had  just  left,  although  at  the  time 
we  embarked  no  Indian  was  visible  for  miles  around.  One  man 
was  slightly  wounded  in  the  neck,  and  another  rather  severely 
in  the  shoulder.  A  few  of  the  arrows  struck  the  canoes,  but 
the  greater  part  did  not  reach  us.  We  however  gained  the 
island  without  further  injury,  and  forthwith  proceeded  to  in- 
trench ourselves  behind  a  line  of  sandbanks,  by  which  we  were 
effectually  covered  from  the  range  of  the  enemy's  shot  from 
cither  side. 

Tiie  brigade  was  divided  into  three  watches.  The  night  was 
dark,  cold,  and  stormy,  with  occasional  showers  of  rain.  It  was 
judged  prudent  to  extingui^li  the  camp  fires,  lest  their  light  might 
serve  as  a  beacon  to  the  Indians  in  attacking  us.  This  precau- 
tion, although  by  no  means  relished  by  the  men,  probably  saved 


I 


PBItlLOVS  8ITVATI0N— OMENS. 


175 


the  party ;  for,  about  an  hour  before  daybreak,  several  of  the 
savages  were  discovered  close  to  the  camp,  which  they  were 
silently  approaching  on  their  hands  and  feet ;  but  on  being  fired 
at  by  our  sentinels  they  quickly  retreated,  apprehensive  of  injur- 
ing  each  other  in  the  dark  ;  and  shortly  after  we  heard  the  sound 
of  their  paddles  quitting  the  island. 

Our  meditations  this  night  were  far  from  pleasing  ;  and  when 
we  reflected  on  the  hopelessness  of  our  situation,  in  the  centre 
of  a  great  river,  the  natives  on  each  side  of  which  were  brave, 
powerful,  and  hostile  ;  our  numbers  comparatively  few,  and  the 
majority  men  in  whose  courage  we  could  not  confide  ;  added  to 
which,  the  impossibility  of  procuring  the  least  assistance,  we 
almost  despaired  of  being  able  to  join  our  friends  in  the  interior. 
We  therefore  made  up  our  minds  for  the  worst ;  interchanged 
short  notes  directed  to  such  of  our  friends  as  we  felt  anxious 
should  know  our  fate,  and  resolved  to  sell  our  lives  dearly. 

Shortly  after  daybreak  a  council  of  war  was  held ;  and  afler 
some  discussion,  we  determined  to  quit  the  island,  demand  a 
parley,  and  ofier  a  certain  quantity  of  goods  to  appease  the  rela- 
tions of  the  deceased. 

The  only  dissentient  to  a  compromise  was  our  Highland  friend 
M'Donald,  whose  spirit  could  not  brook  the  idea  of  purchasing 
safety  from  Indians. 

It  blew  a  strong  gale  during  the  day,  which  prevented  us  from 
embarking,  and  constrained  us  to  pass  another  melancholy  night 
on  the  island,  without  wood  sufficient  to  make  a  solitary  fire. 

Towards  midnight  the  storm  subsided  ;  the  sky  was  dark,  and 
not  a  star  twinkled  through  the  gloomy  atmosphere.  Mr.  Keith 
commanded  the  sec0i:d  watch,  and  I  was  sitting  with  him  at  the 
extremity  of  the  camp,  when  we  observed  a  large  fire  on  a  hill 
in  a  north-west  direction.  It  was  immediately  answered  by  one 
in  the  opposite  point,  which  was  followed  by  others  to  the  east- 
ward and  westward  ;  while  the  indistinct  sounds  of  paddles  from 
canoes  crossing  and  recrossing,  afforded  strong  proofs  that  our 
enemies,  by  vigilant  watching  and  constant  communication,  had 
determined  that  we  should  not  escape  them  in  the  dark. 

Shortly  afler  these  threatening  indications  a  flight  of  ravens 
passed  quietly  over  our  heads,  the  fluttering  of  whose  wings  was 
scarcely  audible.  Some  of  the  Canadians  were  near  us,  and  one 
of  them,  named  Landreville,  in  rather  a  dejected  tone,  said  to 
his  comrades,  "  My  friends,  it  is  useless  to  hope.  Our  doom  is 
fixed :  to-morrow  we  shall  die."  "  Cher  frere,  what  do  you 
mean?"  eagerly  inquired  half-a-dozen  voices.  "Behold  yon 
ravens,"  he  replied;  "their  appearance  by  night  in  times  of 
danger  betokens  approaching  death.    I  cannot  be  mistaken. 


.^ 


,v' 


1T6 


RESOLUTION. 


•'''. 


\y 


i 


f] 


They  know  our  fate,  and  will  hover  about  us  until  the  arrows 
of  the  savages  give  them  a  banquet  on  our  blood." 

Landreville  in  other  respects  was  a  steady  sensible  man,  but« 
like  his  countrymen,  deeply  imbued  with  superstitious  ideas.  Mn 
Keith  saw  the  bad  impression  which  these  ominous  forebodings 
was  likely  to  produce  on  the  men,  and  at  once  determined  to 
counteract  it.  This  he  knew  it  would  have  been  useless  to 
attempt  by  reasoning  with  people  whose  minds  such  absurd 
notions  v  ouid  have  closed  against  conviction,  and  therefore 
iaougb!  .  better  to  combat  their  prejudices  with  their  own 
^v^■;»  p  tHfr.  "  I  havo  no  doubt,  my  friends,"  said  he,  "  that  the 
lk|>j|/V!fua;5  of  ravens  at  night  portends  either  death  or  some 
griif.  t  ii.  .'ts*.  ,c.  We  believe  the  same  thing  in  Scotland ;  the 
opini^m  prev  ^  'hroughout  all  Europe,  and  you  have  inherited 
it  from  your  French  ancestors ;  but  at  the  same  time,  I  must  tell 
you,  that  no  fatality  is  ever  apprehended,  except  their  appear- 
ance is  accompanied  by  croaking ;  then  indeed  the  most  direful 
consequences  are  likely  to  follow ;  but  when  their  flight  is  calm 
and  tranquil,  as  we  have  just  witnessed,  they  are  always  the 
harbingers  of  good  news."  This  well-timed  reply  completely 
dissipated  their  fears,  and  the  poor  fellows  exclaimed,  "  You  are 
right,  sir,  you  are  right.  We  believe  you,  sir;  you  speak 
reason.     Courage,  friends  ;  there's  no  danger." 

The  morr'ng  of  the  1st  of  December  rose  cold  and  bright 
over  the  plains  of  the  Columbia,  as  we  prepared  to  quit  our 
cheerless  encampment.  The  x^oyageurs  were  all  assembled 
by  Mr.  Keith,  who  told  them  that  every  exertion  consistent  with 
reason  should  be  adopted  towards  effecting  an  amicable  arrange* 
ment ;  but  that  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to  show  the  savages 
a  bold  front,  and  that  while  we  tendered  them  the  hand  of  peace, 
we  should  make  them  feci  that  we  were  not  influenced  by  the 
dread  of  war.  He  reminded  t!iem  of  the  many  glorious  deeds 
performed  in  Canada  by  their  gallant  French  ancestors,  a  few 
hundreds  of  whom  often  defeated  as  many  thousand  Indians  ; 
and  concluded  by  expressing  a  hope  that  they  would  not  degene- 
rate from  the  bravery  of  their  forefathers.  They  replied  by  three 
cheers,  and  declared  themselves  ready  to  obey  all  his  orders. 

He  next  addressed  the  Sandwich  islanders,  and  asked  them, 
would  they  fight  the  bad  people  who  had  attempted  to  rob  us, 
in  case  it  was  necessary  ?  Their  answer  was  laconic :  "  Missi 
Keit,  we  kill  every  man  you  bid  us."  So  far  all  was  satisfac- 
tory ;  and  after  having  examined  their  muskets,  and  giving  each 
man  an  additional  glass  of  rum,  we  embarked,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  reached  the  northern  shore,  where  we  landed.  Two 
men  were  left  in  each  canoe  ;  and  the  remainder  of  the  party. 


t. 


.r' 


}^  ■ 


.*. 


PARLBY — DEATH   BONO — INDIAN   CHARACTER. 


irr 


amounting  to  forty-eight,  including  all  the  known  shades  of 
humanity,  ascended  the  bunk.  None  of  the  natives  were  visible, 
and  we  remained  about  iialf  an  hour  undecided  as  to  what  course 
we  should  adopt,  when  a  few  mounted  Indians  made  their  ap- 
pearance at  some  distance.  Michel,  the  interpreter,  was  sent 
forward  alone,  currying  a  long  pole,  to  which  was  attached  a 
white  handkerchief,  and  hailed  them  several  times  without  ob- 
taining an  answer. 

They  appeared  to  understand  the  import  of  our  white  flag  ; 
and  after  a  little  hesitation  two  of  them  approached,  and  de* 
manded  to  know  what  we  had  to  say  1  Michel  replied  that  the 
white  chiefs  were  anxious  to  see  their  chiefs  and  elders,  and  to 
have  a  "  talk"  with  them  on  the  late  disagreeable  affair.  One 
of  them  replied  that  he  would  inform  his  friends,  and  let  us  know 
the  result;  upon  which  he  and  his  companion  f  jp«d  off. 
They  returned  in  a  short  time,  and  staied  that  the  ne.  »hh  ring 
chiefs,  with  the  friends  and  relatives  of  the  men  v '  o  h?  ^een 
killed,  would  join  us  immediately. 

In  less  than  half  an  hour  a  number  of  moun' ...  InJians  ap- 
peared, preceded  by  about  one  hundred  and  fi'ty  ,  rriors  on 
foot,  all  well  armed  with  guns,  spears,  tomaha'  'ks,  bows,  and 
well-furnished  quivers.  They  stopped  within  h  \*  -ifty  yards 
of  our  party.  Among  them  we  recognised  several  of  the 
Wallah  Wallahs ;  but  in  vain  looked  lor  our  old  friend  Tamtap- 
pam,  their  chief:  he  was  absent. 

A  group  of  between  thirty  and  forty  equally  well  armed  now 
approached  from  the  interior.  Their  hair  was  cut  short,  as  a 
sign  of  mourning ;  their  bodies  were  nearly  naked,  and  besmear- 
ed with  red  paint.  This  party  consisted  of  the  immediate  rela- 
tives of  the  deceased ;  and  as  they  advanced  they  chanted  a 
death-song,  part  of  which  ran  as  follows : 

"  Rest,  brothers,  rest !  You  will  be  avenged.  The  tears  of 
your  widows  shall  cease  to  flow,  when  they  behold  the  blood  of 
your  murderers ;  and  your  young  children  shall  leap  and  sing 
with  joy,  on  seeing  their  scalps.  Rest,  brothers,  in  peace ;  we 
shall  have  blood." 

They  took  up  iheir  position  in  the  centre ;  and  the  whole  party 
then  formed  themselves  into  an  extended  crescent.  Among 
them  were  natives  of  the  Chimnapum,  Yackaman,  Sokulk,  and 
Wallah  Wallah  tribes.  Their  language  is  nearly  the  same  ;  but 
they  are  under  separate  chiefs,  and  in  time  of  war  always  unite 
against  the  Shoshone  or  Snake  Indians,  a  powerful  nation,  who 
inhabit  the  plains  to  the  southward. 

'  From  Chili  to  Athabasca,  and  from  Nootka  to  the  Labrador, 
there  is  an  indescribable  coldness  about  an  American  savage  that 
checks  familiarity.    He  is  a  stranger  to  our  hopes,  our  fears,  our 


^  J 


i-'^sam^sfusts 


■MMP 


178 


NEGOTIATIONS — MR.  KEITH  8   ADDBBSS. 


\\ 


joys,  or  our  sorrows :  his  eyes  are  seldom  moistened  by  a  tear, 
or  his  features  relaxed  by  a  umile  ;  and  whether  he  basks  beneath 
a  vertical  sun  on  the  burning  plains  of  Amazonia,  or  freezes  in 
eternal  winter  on  the  ice-bound  shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  the 
same  piercing  black  eyes,  and  stern  immobility  of  countenance, 
equally  set  at  naught  the  skill  of  the  physiognomist. 

On  the  present  occasion,  their  painted  skin,  cut  hair,  and  naked 
bodies,  imparted  to  their  appearance  a  degree  of  ferocity  from 
which  we  boded  no  good  result.  They  remained  stationary  for 
some  time  and  preserved  a  profound  silence. 

Messrs.  Keith,  Stewart,  La  Rocque,  and  the  interpreter,  at 
length  advanced  about  midway  between  both  parties  unarmed, 
and  demanded  to  speak  with  them;  upon  which  two  chiefs, 
accompanied  by  six  of  the  mourners,  proceeded  to  join  them. 
Mr.  Keith  offered  them  the  calumet  of  peace,  which  they  refused 
to  accept,  in  a  manner  at  once  cold  and  repulsive. 

Michel  was  thereupon  ordered  to  tell  them  that,  as  we  had 
always  been  on  good  terms  with  them,  we  regretted  much  that 
the  late  unfortunate  circumstance  had  occurred  to  disturb  our 
friendly  intercourse;  but  that  as  we  were  anxious  to  restore 
harmony,  and  to  forget  what  had  passed,  we  were  now  willing 
to  compensate  the  relations  of  the  deceased  for  the  loss  they  had 
sustained. 

They  inquired  what  kind  of  compensation  was  intended ;  and 
on  being  informed  that  it  consisted  of  two  suits  of  chiefs  clothes, 
with  blankets,  tobacco,  and  ornaments  for  the  women,  &c.  it  was 
indignantly  refused ;  and  their  spokesman  stated  that  no  discus- 
sion could  be  entered  into  until  two  white  men  (one  of  whom 
should  be  the  big  red-headed  chief)  were  delivered  to  them  to 
be  sacrificed,  according  to  their  law,  to  the  spirits  of  the  departed 
warriors. 

Every  eye  turned  on  M'Donald,  who,  on  hearing  the  demand, 
"  grinned  horribly  a  ghastly  smile ;"  and  who,  but  for  our  inter- 
position, would  on  the  spot  have  chastised  the  insolence  of  the 
speaker.  The  men  were  hcrrified,  and  "  fear  and  trembling" 
became  visible  in  their  countenances,  until  Mr.  Keith,  who  had 
observed  these  symptoms  of  terror,  promptly  restored  their  con- 
fidence, by  telling  them  that  such  an  ignominious  demand  should 
never  be  complied  with. 

He  then  addressed  the  Indians  in  a  calm,  firm  voice,  and  told 
them  that  no  consideration  whatever  should  induce  him  to  deliver 
a  white  man  to  their  vengeance  ;  that  they  had  been  the  original 
aggressors,  and  in  their  unjustifiable  attempt  to  seize  by  force 
our  property,  the  deceased  had  lost  their  lives :  that  he  was  wil- 
ling to  believe  the  attack  was  unpremeditated,  and  under 
that  impression  he  had  made  the  offer  of  compensation.    He 


THREATEMNO   INDICATIONS. 


179 


assured  them  that  he  preferred  their  friendship  to  their  enmity ; 
but  that,  if  unfortunately  they  were  not  actuated  by  the  same 
feelings,  the  white  men  would  not,  however  deeply  they  ini^ht 
Jament  it,  shrink  fn)m  the  contest.  At  the  same  time  he  reminded 
them  of  our  superiority  in  arms  and  ammunition ;  and  that  for 
«very  man  belonging  to  our  party  who  might  fall,  ten  of  their 
friends  at  least  would  suffer ;  and  concluded  by  requesting  them 
calmly  to  weigh  and  consider  all  these  matters,  and  to  bear  in 
recollection,  that  upon  the  result  of  their  deliberation  would  in  a 
great  measure  depend  whether  white  men  would  remain  in  their 
country,  or  quit  it  for  ever. 

The  interpreter  having  repeated  the  above,  a  violent  debate 
took  place  among  the  principal  natives.  One  party  advised  the 
demand  for  the  two  white  men  to  be  withdrawn,  and  to  ask  in 
their  place  a  greater  quantity  of  goods  and  ammunition  ;  while 
the  other,  which  was  by  far  the  most  numerous,  and  to  which  all 
the  relatives  of  the  deceased  belonged,  opposed  all  compromise, 
unaccompanied  by  the  delivery  of  the  victims. 

The  arguments  and  threats  of  the  latter  gradually  thinned  the 
ranks  of  the  more  moderate ;  and  Michel  told  Mr.  Keith  that  he 
^as  afraid  an  accommodation  was  impossible.  Orders  were 
thereupon  issued  to  prepare  for  action,  and  the  men  were  told, 
when  they  received  from  Mr.  Keith  the  signal,  to  be  certain  that 
■each  'jhot  should  tell. 

In  the  mean  time  a  number  of  the  natives  had  withdrawn  some 
-distance  from  the  scene  of  deliberation,  and  from  their  fierce 
and  threatening  looks,  joined  to  occasional  whispers,  we  mo- 
mentarily expected  they  would  commence  an  attack. 

A  few  of  their  speakers  still  lingered,  anxious  for  peace ;  but 
their  feeble  efforts  were  unavailing  when  opposed  to  the  more 
powerful  influence  of  the  hostile  party,  who  repeatedly  called  on 
them  to  retire,  and  allow  the  white  men  to  proceed  on  their 
journey  as  well  as  they  could.  All  but  two  chiefs  and  an  elderly 
man,  who  had  taken  an  active  part  in  the  debate,  obeyed  the 
call,  and  they  remained  for  some  time  apparently  undecided 
what  course  to  adopt. 

From  this  group  our  eyes  glanced  to  an  extended  line  of  the 
enemy  who  were  forming  behind  them ;  and  from  their  motions 
it  became  evident  that  their  intention  was  to  outflank  us.  We 
therefore  changed  our  position,  and  formed  our  men  into  single 
files,  each  man  about  three  feet  from  his  comrade.  The  friendly 
natives  began  to  fall  back  slowly  towards  their  companions,  most 
of  whom  had  already  concealed  themselves  behind  large  stones, 
tufts  of  wormwood,  and  furze  bushes,  from  which  they  could 
have  taken  a  more  deadly  aim ;  and  Messrs.  Keith  and  Stewart, 


^^f 


( 


pr- 


fl-. 


twmm 


180 


FORTVNATB   ARRIVAT. — ELOQUENT   ADDRBSf. 


I'  I 


•I 


\i 


\ 

t 

I* 


■4 


^; 


1 


* 


who  had  now  abandoned  all  iiopca  of  nn  amicable  temnination, 
called  for  their  arms. 

An  awful  pause  ensued,  when  our  attention  was  arrested  by 
the  loud  trampina  of  horses,  and  immediately  after  twelve 
mounted  warriors  dashed  into  the  space  between  the  two  parties, 
where  they  halted  and  dismounted.  They  were  headed  by  a 
young  chief,  of  fine  ti|E;ure,  who  instantly  ran  up  to  Mr.  Keith,  to 
whom  he  presented  his  hand  in  the  most  friendly  manner,  which 
example  was  followed  by  his  companions.  He  then  commanded 
our  enemies  to  quit  their  places  of  concealment,  and  to  appear 
before  him.  His  orders  were  promptly  obeyed ;  and  having 
made  himself  acquainted  with  the  circumstances  that  led  to  the 
deaths  of  the  two  Indians,  and  our  eflbrts  towards  effecting  a 
reconciliation,  ho  addressed  them  in  a  speech  of  considerable 
length,  of  which  the  following  is  a  brief  sketch : 

"  Friends  und  relations  !  Tliree  snows  have  only  passed  over 
our  heads  since  we  were  a  poor  miserable  people.  Our  ene- 
mies, the  Shoshones,  during  the  summer,  stole  our  horses,  by 
which  we  were  prevented  from  hunting,  and  drove  us  from  the 
banks  of  the  river,  so  that  we  could  not  get  fish.  In  winter, 
they  burned  our  lodges  by  night ;  they  killed  our  relations  ;  they 
treated  our  wives  and  daughters  like  dogs,  and  left  us  either  to 
die  from  cold  or  starvation,  or  become  tneir  slaves. 

"  They  were  numerous  and  powerful ;  we  were  few,  and 
weak.  Our  hearts  were  as  the  hearts  of  little  children :  we 
could  not  fight  like  warriors,  and  were  driven  like  deer  about 
the  plains.  When  the  thunders  rolled,  and  the  rains  poured,  we 
had  no  spot  in  which  we  could  seek  a  shelter ;  no  place,  save 
the  rocks,  whereon  we  could  lay  our  heads.  Is  such  the  case 
to-day  1  No,  my  relations  I  it  is  not.  We  have  driven  the 
Shoshones  from  our  hunting-grounds,  on  which  they  dare  not  now 
appear,  and  have  regained  possession  of  the  lands  of  our  fathers, 
in  which  vhey  and  their  fathers'  fathers  lie  buried.  We  have 
horses  and  provisions  in  abundance,  and  can  sleep  unmolested 
with  our  wives  and  our  children,  without  dreading  the  midnight 
attacks  of  our  enemies.  Our  hearts  are  great  within  us,  and  we 
are  now  a  nation  ! 

"  Who  then,  my  friends,have  produced  this  change  ?  The  white 
men.  In  exchange  for  our  horses  and  for  our  furs,  they  gave  us 
guns  and  aiiimunition  ;  then  we  became  strong  ;  we  killed  many 
of  our  enemies,  and  forced  them  to  fly  from  our  lands.  And  are 
we  to  treat  those  who  have  been  the  cause  of  this  happy  change 
with  ingratitude  ?  Never !  Never  I  The  white  people  have 
never  robbed  us  ;  and,  I  ask,  why  should  we  attempt  to  rob 
them  ?  It  was  bad,  very  bad  ! — and  they  were  right  in  killing 
the  robbers."    Here  symptoms  of  impatience  and  dissatisfac- 


EXiOqUENT   ADDBBSS. 


181 


»*r 


tion  became  mnnifest  anions  a  group  consisting  chicHy  of  tlio 
relations  of  the  clecenscd  ;  on  oliscrving  which,  he  continued  in 
a  louder  tone  :  "  Yes !  I  sny  they  nc.ted  right  in  killing  i!»o  rob- 
bem;  and  who  among  you  will  dare  to  contradict  vu? 

"  You  know  well  my  father  was  killed  by  the  enemy,  when 
you  all  deserted  him  like  cowards  ;  and,  while  the  Great  Master 
of  Life  spares  me,  no  hostile  foot  shall  again  be  set  on  our  lands. 
I  know  you  all ;  and  I  know  that  those  who  are  afraid  of  their 
bodies  in  battle  are  thieves  when  they  are  out  of  it ;  but  the 
warrior  of  the  strong  arm  and  the  great  heart  will  never  rob  a 
friend."  After  a  short  pause,  ho  resumed :  "  My  friends,  the 
■white  men  are  brave  and  belong  to  a  great  nation.  They  are 
many  moons  crossing  the  great  lake  in  coming  from  their  own 
country  to  serve  us.  If  you  were  foolish  enough  to  attack  them, 
they  would  kill  a  great  many  of  you  ;  but  su{)pose  you  should 
succeed  in  destroying  all  that  are  now  present,  what  would  be 
the  consequence  f  A  greater  number  would  come  next  year  to 
revenge  the  death  of  their  relations,  and  they  would  annihilate 
our  tribe  ;  or  should  not  that  happen,  their  friends  at  home,  on 
hearing  of  their  deaths,  would  say  we  were  a  bad  and  a  wicked 
people,  and  white  men  would  never  more  come  among  us.  -^Wc 
should  then  be  reduced  to  our  former  state  of  misery  and  per- 
secution ;  our  ammunition  would  be  quickly  expended  ;  our 
guns  would  become  useless,  and  wc  should  again  be  driven  from 
our  lands,  and  the  lands  of  our  fathers,  to  wander  like  deer  and 
wolves  in  the  midst  of  the  woods  and  plains.  I  therefore  say 
the  white  men  mtist  not  be  injured !  They  have  offered  you 
compensation  for  the  loss  of  your  friends :  take  it ;  but,  if 
you  should  refuse,  I  tell  you  to  your  faces  that  I  will  join  them 
with  my  own  band  of  warriors ;  and  should  one  white  man  fall 
by  the  arrow  of  an  Indian,  that  Indian,  if  he  were  my  brother, 
with  all  his  family,  shall  become  victims  to  my  vengeance." 
Then,  raising  his  voice,  he  called  out,  "  Let  the  Wallah  Wallahs, 
and  all  who  love  me,  and  are  fond  of  the  white  men,  come  forth 
and  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace  !"  Upwards  of  one  hundred  of 
our  late  adversaries  obeyed  the  call,  and  separated  themselves 
from  their  allies.  The  harangue  of  the  youthful  chieftain  silenced 
all  opposition.  The  above  is  but  a  faint  outline  of  the  argu- 
ments he  made  use  of,  for  he  spoke  upwards  of  two  hours ; 
and  Michel  confessed  himself  unable  to  translate  a  great  por- 
tion f/f  his  language,  particularly  when  he  soared  into  the  wild 
flights  of  metaphor,  so  common  among  Indians.  His  delivery 
was  im,)a8sioned;  and  his  action,  ahhough  sometimes  violent, 
was  generally  bold,  graceful,  and  energetic.  Our  admiration  at 
the  time  knew  no  bounds ;  and  the  orators  of  Greece  or  Rome, 


ft 


h^ssamtim 


182 


'MOHNINO   STAR.' 


^ 


f! 


when  compared  with  him,  dwindled  in  our  estimation  into  insig- 
nificance. 

Through  this  chief's  mediation,  the  various  claimants  were  in 
a  short  time  fully  satisfied,  without  the  flaming  scalp  of  our  High- 
land hero  ;  after  which  a  circle  was  formed  by  our  people  and 
the  Indians  indiscriminately :  the  white  and  red  chiefs  occupied 
the  centre,  and  our  return  to  friendship  was  ratified  by  each 
individual  in  rotation  taking  an  amicable  whiflT  from  the  peace- 
cementing  calumet. 

The  chieftain  whose  timely  arrival  had  rescued  us  from  im- 
pending destruction  was  called  "  Morning  Star."  His  age  did 
not  exceed  twenty-five  years.  His  father  had  been  a  chief  of  great 
bravery  and  influence,  and  had  been  killed  in  battle  by  the  Sho- 
shones  a  few  years  before.  He  was  succeeded  by  Morning  Star, 
who,  notwithstanding  his  youth,  had  performed  prodigies  of 
valour.  Nineteen,  scalps  decorated  the  neck  of  his  war  horse,  the 
ownersof  which  had  been  all  killed  in  battle  by  himself  to  appease 
the  spirit  of  his  deceased  father.  He  wished  to  increase  the  num- 
ber of  his  victims  to  twenty ;  but  the  terror  inspired  by  his  name, 
joined  to  the  superiority  which  his  tribe  derived  by  the  use  of 
fire-arms,  prevented  him  from  making  up  the  desired  comple- 
ment, by  banishing  the  enemy  from  the  banks  of  the  Colum- 
bia.* 

His  handsome  features,  eagle  glance,  noble  bearing,  and 
majestic  person,  stamped  him  one  of  Nature's  own  aristocracy  ; 
while  his  bravery  in  the  field,  joined  to  his  wisdom  in  their  coun- 
cils, commanded  alike  the  involuntary  homage  of  the  young,  and 
the  respect  of  the  old. 

We  gave  the  man  who  had  been  wounded  in  the  shoulder  a 
chief's  coat ;  and  to  the  relations  of  the  men  who  were  killed 
we  gave  two  coats,  two  blankets,  two  fathoms  of  cloth,  two 
spears,  forty  bullets  and  powder,  with  a  quantity  of  trinkets, 
and  two  small  kettles  for  their  widows.  We  also  distributed 
nearly  half  a  bale  of  tobacco  among  all  present,  and  our  youth- 
ful deliverer  was  presented  by  Mr.  Keith  with  a  handsome  fowl- 
ing-piece, and  some  other  valuable  articles. 

Four  men  were  then  ordered  to  each  canoe,  and  they  pro- 
ceeded on  with  the  poles  ;  while  the  remainder,  with  the  passen- 
gers, followed  by  land.  We  were  mixed  pell-mell  with  the  na- 
tives for  several  miles :  the  ground  was  covered  with  large 
stones,  small  willows,  and  prickly-pears ;  and  had  they  been 
inclined  to  break  the  solemn  compact  into  which  they  had 
entered,  they  could  have  destroyed  us  with  the  utmost  facility. 

*  The  Indi&nB  consider  the  attainment  of  twenty  scalps  as  the  summit  of  a 
•rarrior's  glory. 


m 


EXPEDITION — SNOW    S"X)RM8. 


183 


At  dusk  we  bade  farewell  to  the  friendly  chieftain  and  his 
companions,  and  crossed  to  the  south  side,  where  wc  encamped, 
a  few  miles  above  Lewis  River,  and  spent  the  night  in  tran- 
quillity. 

It  may  be  imagined  by  some  that  the  part  we  acted  in  the 
foregoing  transaction  betrayed  too  great  an  anxiety  for  self- 

K reservation  ;  but  when  it  is  recollected  that  we  were  several 
undred  miles  from  any  assistance,  with  a  deep  and  rapid  river 
to  ascend  by  the  tedious  and  laborious  process  of  poling,  and 
that  the  desultory  Cossack  mode  of  fighting  in  use  among  the 
Indians,  particularly  the  horsemen,  would  have  cut  us  off  in 
piece-meal  ere  we  had  advanced  three  days,  it  will  be  seen 
that,  under  the  circumstances,  we  could  not  have  acted  other- 
wise. 

We  reached  Oakinagan  without  further  interruption  on  the 
12th  of  December,  at  which  place  we  remained  a  few  days,  to 
recruit  the  men,  and  prepare  for  the  land  journey  with  the 
horses. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Author  and  party  lost  in  a  snow-storm — Curious  instance  of  mental  abstrac- 
tion— Poor  Ponto — Arrive  at  Spokan  House — A  marriage — Great  ravine — 
Agates — Hot-springs — Kitchen  garden — Indian  manner  of  hunting  the 
deer — Method  adopted  by  the  wolves  for  the  same  purpose — Horce-racing 
— Great  heat. 

On  the  13th  of  December,  the  Spokan  brigade,  to  which  I 
was  attached,  took  its  departure  from  Oakinagan.  The  party 
consisted,  besides,  of  Messrs.  Stewart,  M'Tavish,  M'Millan,  and 
Montour ;  with  twenty-one  Canadians,  and  four  Sandwich 
islanders.  We  had  twenty-six  loaded  horses ;  and  in  addition 
to  our  ordinary  stock  of  provisions,  we  purchased  forty  dogs 
from  the  natives  at  Oakinagan,  which  were  killed,  after  we  had 
crossed  the  river,  and  formed  part  of  the  loading. 

The  cold  was  intense,  and  the  ground  covered  with  ten  or 
twelve  inches  of  snow.  This  necessarily  impeded  our  progress, 
and  prevented  us  from  advancing  more  than  twelve  miles  a  day. 

On  the  iCth,  which  was  the  fourth  day  of  our  journey,  it 
snowed  incessantly.  The  line  of  march  was  long  and  straggling, 
and  those  in  front  were  several  miles  in  advance  of  the  rear 
division,  of  which  I  had  charge  with  M'Tavish.  We  had  eight 
loaded  horses,  with  four  Canadians,  and  two  Sandwish  islanders. 

Towards  evening  a  heavy  storm  arose  from  the  north-east, 


I' 


I 


■1 

■■> 

; 
1    _ 

1^' 


Mlp 


184 


BIVOUACK   IN   THE   SNOW — MENTAIi   ABSTRACTION. 


. 


f  >? 


Mrhich,  added  lo  the  desolation  by  which  we  were  surrounded ; 
while  the  chillirig  monotony  of  the  wide  and  extended  plains 
was  partially  varied  by  immense  masses  of  drifting  snow,  which, 
l»ke  the  fitful  vapour  that  so  often  enshrouds  our  northern  moun* 
tains,  occasionally  concealed  from  our  view  the  cheerless  extent 
of  the  wintry  horizon.  On  the  approach  of  darkness  the  violence 
of  the  storm  subsider! ;  but  it  was  followed  by  one  of  those 
calm,  clear,  freezing  nights  so  common  in  the  interior  of  Ame- 
rica, and  from  the  death-benumbing  influence  of  which  it  is  nearly 
impossible  to  avoid  that  sleep  from  which  many  an  unfortunate 
wanderer  never  awakens.  We  were  now  completely  bewil- 
dered ;  all  traces  of  the  path  had  been  destroyed  by  the  drift ; 
the  cold  became  every  instant  more  painfully  intense,  and 

Horsemen  and  horse  confessed  tha  bitter  pang. 

Three  of  the  poor  animals  ha\  ing  at  length  given  up,  we  were 
reluctantly  oblige-i  to  stop  and  unload  them ;  and  after  searching 
in  vain  for  wood  to  make  a  fire,  we  were  conjpelled  to  make  a 
large  excavation  in  the  snow,  in  which  we  resolved  to  pass  the 
night. 

The  horses  which  carried  our  provisions  and  blankets  were 
ahead,  and  we  fired  several  shots  m  the  hope  of  obtaining  relief, 
but  without  success.  M'l'avish  and  I,  however,  fortunately 
obtained  a  blanket  from  one  of  the  men,  with  which,  and  some 
of  the  saddle-cloths,  we  contrived  to  guard  against  the  effects  of 
the  piercing  cold  during  the  night. 

We  arose  with  the  first  dawn  of  morning,  and  prepared  to 
renew  our  march  ;  but  on  mustering  the  horses  we  found  one  of 
them  dead,and  the  two  Sandwich  islanders  dreadfully  frostbitten. 
To  add  to  our  distress,  M'Tavish  and  I  had  omitted  the  wise 
precaution  of  placing  our  moccasins  under  our  bodies  (the 
warmth  of  which  would  have  preserved  them  from  being  con- 
gealed), in  consequence  of  which  we  found  them,  on  awaken- 
ing, frozen  as  hard  as  clogs.  All  our  endeavours  to  soften  them 
by  puffing,  rubbing,  &.c.  were  unavailing,  and  we  were  ulti- 
mately obliged  to  have  recourse  to  an  extraordinary  process, 
which  produced  the  desired  effect.  After  reloading,  we  re- 
sumed our  march,  which,  owing  to  the  depth  and  hardness  of 
the  snow,  was  painfully  tedious.  We  had  not  advanced  more 
than  three  miles,  when  I  missed  my  fowling-piece  ;  and  ima- 
gining that  I  had  left  it  at  the  place  where  we  had  passed  the 
night,  I  returned  to  look  for  it ;  but  on  arriving  at  the  spot  I  was 
much  annoyed  lo  find  the  object  of  my  search  lying  across  my 
arms  !  To  account  for  this  instance  of  mental  abstraction,  it  is 
necessary  to  remeniber  the  disagreeable  situation  in  which  I  ^^b 


PHOVI8IONS — POOR   PONTO. 


185 


placed  ; — in  ^.harge  of  a  party  who  had  lost  itself  in  a  trackless 
wilderness  of  snow,  and  unable  to  discover  any  vestiges  of  ita 
companions ;  two  of  the  number  disabled  from  walking,  and  both 
men  and  horses  almost  exhausted  from  cold  and  want  of  nourish- 
ment ;  in  addition  to  which  I  had  been  accustomed  for  some 
days  previously  to  carry  my  fowling-piece  over  the  left  shoulder, 
from  which  1  suddenly  missed  the  weight,  and,  without  men- 
tioning the  circumstance  to  any  of  the  men,  turned  back  on  my 
fool's  errand. 

Shortly  after  rejoining  tlie  party  we  came  in  view  of  a  cluster 
of  small  trees,  from  the  centre  of  which  arose  large  volumes  of 
friendly  vapour.  Here  we  found  Messrs.  Stewart  and  M'Millan, 
with  the  remainder  of  the  brigade,  comfortably  sealed  round  a 
cheering  fire,  partaking  of  a  plentiful  breakfast.  We  hastened 
to  join  them,  and  quickly  despatched  part  of  a  hind  quarter  and 
a  lew  ribs  of  roasted  dog. 

Mr.  Stewart  had  a  beautiful  English  water-spaniel,  called 
Ponto.  After  breakfast  he  asked  M'Tavish  how  he  liked  his 
fare,  to  which  the  latter  replied  that  he  thought  it  was  excellent. 
"  And  pray,  my  dear  Alick,"  said  Stewart,  "  do  you  know  what 
you  have  just  been  eating  ?" — "  Not  exactly,"  replied  he,  "  I  liked 
the  meat  so  well  that  I  never  thought  of  asking  its  name ;  but 
I  suppose  it  is  one  of  the  wild  sheep  that  I  hear  you  have  in 
these  parts." — "  No  indeed,"  said  Stewart :  "  finding  ourselves 
short  of  provisions,  we  were  obliged  to  kill  Ponto,  on  part  of 
which  you  have  made  so  hearty  a  breakfast." — *'  Poor  Ponto !" 
ejaculated  the  philosophical  Highlander;  "I  am  sorry  for  him, 
but  it  cannot  now  be  helped."  Ponto  was  a  fine  animal,  full  of 
vivacity,  and  had  become  a  general  favourite.  I  could  not  ac- 
count for  his  death,  seeing  there  was  no  necessity  to  justify  the 
murder  of  a  civilized  dog,  while  several  of  those  which  had 
been  purchased  at  Oakinagan  still  remained  untouched.  On 
inquiring  the  reason,  I  was  told  that  in  consequence  of  his  being 
in  excellent  condition,  he  was  deemed  a  fit  dish  pour  la  table 
d^un  bourgeois*  This  was  by  no  means  satisfactory,  as  I  ob- 
served at  the  men's  messes  several  prime  pieces  of  the  native 
dogs,  which  I  thought  ought  to  have  satisfied  people  more  fas- 
tidious than  we  had  a  right  to  be  on  such  an  occasion :  besides, 
I  would  have  preferred  picking  the  bones  of  the  most  maigre 
of  the  Indian  breed,  to  the  plumpest  of  our  own  faithful  com- 
panions. Their  keen  eye,  sharp  nose,  and  pointed  upright  ear, 
proclaim  their  wolfish  origin,  and  fail  to  enlist  our  sympathies 
m  their  behalf;  in  conse(iuencc  of  which  our  repugnance  to  eat 
them  in  periods  of  necessity  is  considerably  diminished. 

*  The  Canadians  call  every  proprietor  un  bourgeou. 

z 


\ 


ssyJKiei!. 


r- 


186 


ADVERTISING  FOR   A   WIPE — PUhniCA'noSfP 


I 


ill       I ' 


«•■ 


We  rested  at  this  encampment  the  remainder  of  the  day  to 
refresh  the  horses,  and  in  the  evening  I  was  highly  delighted  at 
again  seeing  the  animated  figure  of  poor  Ponto  as  lively  and 
playful  as  ever.  He  had  not  been  injured,  and  the  melancholy 
story  of  his  denth,  &c.  was  a  pure  invention  of  the  "  old  one's" 
to  work  on  our  juvenile  sympathies. 

From  hence  to  Spokan  we  had  a  tedious  and  misentble 
march  of  seven  days  in  deep  snow,  in  the,  course  of  whicii  we 
lost  five  horses ;  and  of  those  which  survived  the  journey,  sev- 
eral perished  during  the  winter. 

I  remained  at  Spokan  in  company  with  Messrs.  Stewart  and 
M'Tavish,  and  passed  rather  an  agreeable  winter.  The  deer 
were  not  so  numerous  as  in  former  seasons,  and  we  chiefly 
subsisted  on  horses.  Towards  the  latter  end  of  Janiiary  carp 
became  plentiful  in  Spokan  river,  and  about  a  month  later  the 
trout-fishing  commenced.  We  took  large  quantities  of  both, 
which  afforded  us  excellent  amusement ;  and  from  that  period 
until  late  in  the  spring,  we  generally  breakfasted  on  fish  and 
dined  on  horse. 

In  the  course  of  the  winter  an  incident  occuned  wit ,(,h  threat- 
ened at  the  time  to  interrupt  the  harmony  that  had  previously 
existed  between  our  people  and  the  Spokan  Indian;;.  One  of 
our  younger  clerks,  having  become  tired  of  celibacy,  resolved 
to  take  a  wife ;  and  as  none  of  the  Columbian  half-breeds  had 
attained  a  sufficiently  mature  age,  he  was  net;essitated  to  moke 
his  selection  from  the  Spokan  tribe.  He  therefore  requested 
the  interpreter  to  make  an  inquiry  in  the  village,  and  ascertain 
whether  any  unappropriated  comely  young  woman  was  willing 
to  become  the  partner  of  a  juvenile  chief.  A  pretty-looking 
damsel,  about  seventfjpn  years  of  age,  immediately  became  a 
candidate  for  the  pvl..  •  ^  her  father  had  died  some  years 
before,  sho  was  uncitr  >'  ■  guardianship  of  her  mother,  who, 
with  her  brother,  settled  the  terms  of  the  negotiation.  Blankets 
and  kettles  were  presented  to  her  principal  relations,  while 
beads,  hawk-bells,  &c.  were  distributed  among  the  remaining 
kindred.  About  nine  o'clock  at  night  the  bride  was  conducted 
to  the  fort  gate  by  her  mother,  and  after  an  apathetic  parting, 
she  was  consigned  to  the  care  of  one  of  the  men's  wives,  called 
"  the  scourer,"  conversant  in  such  aftairs,  who  had  her  head  and 
body  thoroughly  cleansed  from  all  the  Indian  paint  and  grease 
with  which  they  had  been  saturated.  After  this  purification  she 
was  handed  over  to  the  dressmaker,  who  instantly  discharged  her 
leathern  chemise,  and  supplied  its  place  by  more  appropriate 
clothing ;  and  the  following  morning,  when  she  appeared  in  her 
new  habiliments,  we  thought  her  one  of  the  most  engaging 
females  that  we  had  previously  seen  of  the  Spokan  nation. 


INDIA.)   IIARANOUE. 


187 


Matters  rolled  on  pleasantly  enough  for  a  few  days,  and  the 
youthful  couple  appeared  mutually  enamoured  of  each  other ; 
but  a  "  little  week"  had  scarcely  passed  over  their  heads  when, 
one  day  about  two  o'clock,  a  number  of  young  warriors  well 
mounted  galloped  into  the  court-yard  of  the  fort,  armed  at  all 
points.  Their  appearance  was  so  unusual,  and  unlike  the  gen- 
eral manner  of  the  Spokan  nation,  that  we  were  at  a  loss  to 
account  for  it,  and  vague  suspicions  of  treachery  began  to  flit 
across  our  imagination."  ;  but  ihe  mystery  was  shortly  cleared  up. 
The  bride,  on  perceiving  the  foremost  horseman  of  the  band 
enter  the  court,  instantly  fled  into  an  adjoining  store,  in  which 
.■"he  concealed  herself;  while  he  and  his  associates  dismounted, 
and  demandea  to  speak  with  the  principal  white  chief,  at  the 
same  time  requesting  the  other  chiefs  would  also  appear.  His 
wishes  having  been  complied  with,  he  addressed  us  in  substance 
to  ..he  following  effect :  "  Three  snow.?  have  passe.)  away  since 
the  white  men  came  from  their  own  country  to  live  among  the 
Spokans.  When  the  Evil  Spirit  thought  proper  to  distress  the 
white  pe  ">ple  by  covering  the  waters  of  the  rivers  with  ice,  so 
that  they  could  not  catch  any  fish,  and  sent  snow  all  over  the 
mountains  and  the  plains,  by  means  whereof  their  horses  were 
nearly  destroyed  by  the  wolves, — when  their  own  hunters  in 
fact  could  not  fii;  an  animal,  did  the  Spokans  take  advantage 
of  their  aflilictions  ?  Did  they  rob  them  of  their  horses  like 
Sinapoil  dogs  1  Did  they  say,  The  white  men  are  now  poor 
and  starving ;  they  are  a  great  distance  from  their  own  country 
and  from  any  assistance,  and  we  can  easily  take  all  their  goods 
from  them,  and  send  them  away  naked  and  hungry  ?  No  !  we 
never  spoke  or  even  thought  of  such  bad  things.  The  white  men 
came  among  us  witli  confidence,  and  our  hearts  were  glad  to  see 
them ;  they  paid  us  for  our  fish,  for  our  meat,  and  for  our  furs. 
We  thought  they  were  all  good  p-iople,  and  in  particular  their 
chiefs ;  but  I  find  we  were  wrong  in  so  thin'ung."  Here  he 
paused  for  a  short  period  ;  after  which  he  thui  recomrv  ^nced: 
"  My  relations  and  myself  left  our  village  some  days  n  for  '.he 
purpose  of  hunting.  We  returned  home  this  mornin^  Their 
wives  and  their  children  leaped  with  joy  to  meet  them,  and  all 
their  hearts  were  glad  but  mine.  I  vimi  to  my  hut  and  called 
on  my  wife  to  come  forth ;  but  she  did  not  appear.  I  was  sor- 
rowful and  hungry,  and  went  into  my  brother's  hut,  where  I 
was  told  that  she  had  gone  away,  and  had  becoi  e  the  wife  of 
a  white  chief.  She  is  now  in  your  house.  I  come,  therefore, 
white  men,  to  demand  justice.  I  first  require  that  my  wife  be 
delivered  up  to  me.  She  has  acted  like  a  dog,  and  I  shall  live 
no  more  with  her ;  but  I  shall  punish  her  as  she  deserves.  And 
in  the  next  place  I  expect,  as  you  have  been  the  cause  of  my 


■H 


■■  i* 


■11  !\ 


amfM-mm* 


T 

!« 


■t 


188 


A  wipe's  valur — nEcoomTioN. 


'i! 


If 


1 


losing  her,  that  you  will  give  ample  compensation  for  her  loss." 
Our  interpreter  immediately  explained  to  the  Indian  that  the 
girl's  relatives  were  the  cause  of  the  trick  that  had  been  played 
on  him,  and  added,  that  had  our  friend  been  aware  of  her 
having  been  a  married  woman,  he  never  would  have  thought  of 
making  her  his  wife.  That  he  was  willing  to  give  him  reason- 
able compensation  for  her  loss ;  but  that  she  should  not  be  de- 
livered to  him  except  he  undertook  not  to  injure  her.  He  re- 
fused to  make  any  promise,  and  still  insisted  on  her  restitution ; 
but  as  we  had  reason  to  fear  that  her  life  would  have  been  sacri- 
ficed, we  refused  to  comply.  The  old  chief  next  addressed  him 
for  some  time,  the  result  of  which  was,  that  he  agreed  to  accept 
of  a  gun,  one  hundred  rounds  of  ammunition,  three  blankets, 
two  kettles,  a  spear,  a  dcgger,  ten  fathoms  of  tobacco,  with  a 
quantity  of  smaUer  articles,  and  to  leave  his  frail  helpmate  in 
quiet  possession  of  her  pale-f^ced  spouse,  promising  never  more 
to  think  of  her,  or  do  her  any  harm.  Exorbitant  as  these  terms 
were,  it  was  judged  advisable  to  accede  to  them  rather  than 
disturb  the  good  feeling  that  had  hitherto  subsisted  between  us. 
After  we  had  delivered  the  above  articles  to  him,  we  all  smoked 
the  calumet ;  on  perceiving  which  the  fugitive,  knowing  that  it 
was  the  ratification  of  peace,  emerged  from  her  place  of  con- 
cealment, and  boldly  walked  past  her  late  lord.  She  caught  bis 
eye  for  a  moment,  but  no  sign  of  recognition  appeared,  and 
neither  anger  nor  regret  ^^emed  to  disturb  the  natural  serenity 
of  his  cold  and  swarthy  countenance. 

Shortly  after  the  arrival  of  the  parties  from  the  Cootonais 
and  Flat-heads,  we  took  our  departure  for  the  sea  ;  and  having 
joined  the  gentlemen  at  Oakinagan,  we  proceeded  together,  and 
arrived  without  accident  on  the  3d  of  April  at  Fort  George. 
Here  we  found  a  handsome  brig  belonging  to  the  Company, 
which  liad  arrived  some  time  before,  well  loaded  with  articles 
necessary  both  for  the  interior  and  coasting  trade. 

We  remained  only  a  fortnight  at  the  fort,  which  we  again  left 
on  the  16th  of  April  for  the  interior.  We  saw  few  Indians  on 
the  Columbia  until  we  reached  the  Wallah  Wallah  river,  at 
which  we  stopped  half  a  day  to  purchase  horses.  We  recog- 
nised several  of  the  party  who  had  attacked  us  the  preceding 
au'iimn,  particularly  the  relatives  of  the  Indians  who  had  been 
killf  tl,  and  who  were  easily  distinguished  by  their  short  cropped 
hair  They  came  however  among  us  unarmed,  and  all  recoUeo- 
'Aon  of  that  unpleasant  affair  seemed  to  have  vanished  from  their 
menkCirrss. 

Abort  forty  miles  above  Lewis  River,  Messrs.  Stewart, 
M'Millan,  and  I,  with  three  men,  quitted  the  canoes  to  proceed 
overland  to  Spokan  House.    During  this  journey,  which  occu- 


HAVINB— Hot  UPRINOfl— nonWCrLTUHE. 


189 


pied  five  or  six  days,  we  did  not  meet  a  single  native ;  and  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  stunted  red  cedar-trees,  and  some  juniper 
birch  and  willow,  the  country  was  divested  of  wood.  Early  on 
the  morning  of  the  second  day  we  entered  a  remarkable  ravine, 
with  high,  bold,  and  rocky  sides,  through  which  we  rode  upwards 
of  twenty  miles,  when  we  were  obliged  to  leave  it  in  order  to 
follow  our  direct  course.  The  soil  in  this  ravine  is  a  fine  whit- 
ish-coloured clay,  firm  and  hard.  There  is  but  little  vegetation, 
except  on  the  sides,  where  clusters  of  willow  and  choke-cherry 
are  occasionally  met  with.  While  we  rode  through  it  we  passed 
several  small  lakes,  round  the  shores  of  which  I  picked  up  some 
very  fine  pebbles  of  the  agate  species,  extremely  hard,  and  pos- 
sessing great  delicacy  and  variety  of  shading.  The  banks  of 
the  Columbia,  from  the  falls  up  to  Lewis  River,  abound  with 
pebbles  of  the  same  description;  some  of  which  I  brought 
home,  and  had  cut.  They  take  a  beautiful  polish,  and  in  the 
opinion  of  lapidaries  far  exceed  the  cornelian  in  value. 

It  is  a  curious  circumstance  that  we  observed  no  rattlesnakes 
in  this  valley ;  and  we  subsequently  learned  from  the  Indians 
that  they  never  saw  any ;  although  those  reptiles  are  very 
numerous  in  the  plains  on  each  side.  The  natives  were  unable 
to  assign  any  cause  for  this ;  and,  except  it  be  in  the  peculiarity 
of  the  soil,  we  were  equally  at  a  loss  to  account  for  it. 

The  following  day  we  passed  two  warm  springs,  one  of  which 
was  so  hot,  that  in  a  short  time  water  in  a  saucepan  might  be 
easily  boiled  over  it.  They  were  both  highly  sulphuric ;  but  we 
had  not  time,  nor  indeed  were  we  prepared  to  analyze  their 
properties.  The  soil  in  their  immediate  vicinity  was  firm  white 
clay,  and  the  grass  quite  brown. 

On  leaving  the  canoes  we  expected  to  have  reached  Spokan 
on  the  third  day ;  but  in  consequence  of  having  no  guide,  joined 
to  the  difficulty  of  finding  water,  we  took  double  the  time  on 
which  we  had  calculated.  Our  provisions  ht-d  failed,  and  "we 
were  about  killing  one  of  our  jaded  horses,  when  we  came  in 
sight  of  a  few  lean  deer,  two  of  which  we  shot.  This  supply 
brought  us  to  Spokan  House,  which  place  we  reached  on  the 
I2th  of  May.  The  party  with  the  trading  goods  arrived  a  few 
days  after  from  Oakinagan. 

I  passed  the  summer  at  Spokan  with  the  gentlemen  already 
mentioned,  in  addition  to  Messrs.  Mackenzie  and  Montour,  in  as 
agreeable  a  manner  as  men  possibly  could  in  such  a  country. 
Our  kitchen-garden  now  began  to  assume  a  thriving  appearance, 
and,  in  addition  to  a  fine  crop  of  potatoes,  we  reared  a  quantity  of 
other  excellent  esculents.  The  soil  was  deep  and  rich  ;  and  a  few 
melons  and  cucumbers  which  we  had  put  down  throve  adinirably. 
The  Indians,  who  at  first  would  not  touch  any  thing  which  we 


A 


m 

jRIK 

m 

'  ;t 


M 


I       ! 

It 


> 


sM^Mmmssmt 


190 


DANGEROUS   RAVINE' — DEER. 


planted,  began  at  length  to  have  such  a  relish  for  the  produce  of 
the  garden,  that  we  were  obliged  to  have  sentinels  on  the  watch 
to  prevent  their  continual  trespasses.  We  oftered  some  of  them 
potatoes  to  plant,  and  pointeu  out  the  good  effects  that  would 
result  from  their  cultivation  ;  but  they  were  too  thoughtless  and 
improvident  to  follow  our  advice.  We  strongly  impressed  on 
their  minds  that  if  the  system  was  generally  adopted  it  would 
prevent  the  recurrence  of  famine,  to  which  they  were  subject ; 
but  to  this  they  replied,  that  it  would  interfere  with  their  hunting 
and  fishing,  and  prevent  their  women  from  collecting  their  own 
country  fruits  and  roots  in  autumn,  and  thereby  render  them 
lazy.  All  our  arguments  were  unavailing,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  allow  them  to  continue  in  their  own  course. 

During  the  summer  we  made  several  excursions  of  from  one 
to  three  weeks'  duration  to  the  neighbouring  friendly  tribes,  for 
the  purpose  of  obtaining  a  more  accurate  knowledge  of  their  re- 
spective lands.  Of  the  information  thus  obtained  I  shall  have 
to  speak  hereafter.  In  some  of  these  journeys  we  had  to  cross 
the  great  ravine  already  mentioned.  It  is  computed  to  be  about 
eighty  miles  in  length,  and  presents  all  along  the  same  re  cky  and 
precipitous  sides.  The  pathways  are  so  steep  and  dangerous, 
that  even  Indians  in  passing  them  are  obliged  to  dismount,  and 
loaded  horses  must  be  partly  lightened.  Some  of  the  horses 
by  missing  their  footing  have  been  killed,  and  many  severely 
injured,  in  descending  these  precipices.  The  bottom  throughout 
consists  of  the  same  firm  white  soil,  interspersed  with  small 
lakes.  Several  bold  insulated  rocks  are  scattered  here  and  there 
throughout  the  ravine,  some  of  which  exceed  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  circumference,  and  are  partially  clothed  with  choke- 
cherry  and  other  inferior  kinds  of  vegetation. 

From  small  horizontal  channels  worn  on  the  sides  of  the 
rocks,  and  which  seemed  to  indicate  the  action  of  water,  we 
were  led  to  imagine  that  this  vallev  was  formerly  one  of  the 
channels  of  the  Columbia,  the  course  of  which  we  supposed 
must  have  been  changed  by  one  of  those  extraordinary  convul- 
sions in  the  natural  world,  the  causes  of  which  are  beyond 
human  knowledge. 

In  the  great  plains  between  Oakinagan  and  Spokan  there  are 
at  particular  seasons  numbers  of  small  deer.  The  editor  of 
Lewis  and  Clarke  classes  them  as  antelopes ;  but  how  much  so- 
ever they  may  resemble  those  animals  in  swiftness  and  shape, 
their  horns,  as  described  by  naturalists,  are  totally  different. 
Their  flesh  is  sweet  and  delicate,  and  they  generally  go  in  small 
herds.  Towards  the  latter  end  of  the  summer  they  are  in  prime 
condition,  and  at  that  season  we  had  some  excellent  sport  in 
hunting  them.    The  Indians,  however,  are  not  satisfied  with  our 


'  \ 


WOLVES — SUMMER  AMVSEMENT. 


101 


method  of  taking  them  in  detail.  On  ascertaining  the  direction 
the  deer  have  chosen,  part  of  their  hunters  take  a  circuit  in 
ortler  to  arrive  in  front  of  the  herd,  while  those  behind  set  fire  to 
the  long  grass,  the  flames  of  which  spread  with  great  rapidity. 
In  their  flight  from  the  devouring  element  they  are  intercepted  by 
the  hunters,  and,  while  they  hesitate  between  these  dangers, 
great  numbers  fall  by  the  arrows  of  the  Indians. 

The  wolves  almost  rival  the  Indians  in  their  manner  of  at- 
tacking the  deer.  When  impelled  by  hunger,  they  proceed  in 
a  band  t)  the  plains  in  quest  of  food.  Having  traced  the  direc- 
tion wh'.ch  a  herd  have  taken,  they  form  themselves  into  a  horse- 
shoe line,  the  extreme  points  of  which  they  keep  open  on  the 
^nd  ravine.  After  some  cautious  mariiceuvring  they  succeed 
m  turning  the  progress  of  the  deer  in  that  direction.  This  ob- 
ject eflfected,  they  begin  to  concentrate  their  ranks,  and  ulti- 
mately hem  in  their  victims  in  such  a  maniK^r  as  to  leave  them 
no  choice  but  that  of  being  dashed  to  pieces  down  the  steep  and 
rocky  sides  of  the  ravine,  or  falling  a  prey  to  the  fangs  of  their 
merciless  pursuers. 

During  this  summer  we  had  also  some  good  horse-racing  in 
the  plains  between  the  Pointed-Heart  and  Spokan  lands.  In 
addition  m  the  horses  belonging  to  those  tribes,  we  had  a  few 
from  the  Flat-heads,  and  several  from  the  Chaudiere  Indians. 
There  were  some  capital  heats,  and  betting  ran  high.  The 
horses  were  ridden  by  their  respective  owners,  and  I  have  some- 
times seen  upwards  of  thirty  running  a  five-mile  heat.  The 
course  was  a  perfect  plain,  with  a  light  gravelly  bottom,  and 
some  of  the  rearward  jockeys  were  occasionally  severely  pep- 
pered in  the  face  from  the  small  pepples  thrown  up  by  the  hoofs 
of  the  racers  in  front. 

Thus  passed  the  summer  of  1815,  decidedly  the  most  pleas- 
ant and  agreeable  season  I  enjoyed  in  the  Indian  country. 
Hunting,  fishing,  fowling,  horse-racing,  and  fruit-gathering, 
occupied  the  day;  while  reading,  music.backgammon,  &c.  formed 
the  evening  pleasures  of  our  small  but  friendly  mess.  The  heat 
was  intense  during  this  summer.  The  thermometer  averaged 
from  84°  to  96°,  and  on  one  occasion,  the  5th  of  July,  on  which 
day  we  had  a  horse-race,  it  rose  to  111°  in  the  shade.  The 
heat  was  however  generally  moderated  by  cooling  breezes; 
otherwise  it  would  have  been  quite  insupportable. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  August,  and  during  the  month  of 
September,  about  noon,  the  thermometer  generally  stood  at 
86°,  while  in  the  mornings  and  evenings  it  fell  to  35°,  or  36°. 


I 


ffi 


<    4 


t  ^t  vr 


I  •  p 


'r :  r 


<    f  :; 


■M 


192 


DEPARTURE — LETTER   FROM  MR.   STEWART. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


Letter  from  Mr.  Stewart — His  account  of  New  Caledonia — Navigation  of  the 
Columbia  obstructed  by  ico — Miserable  situation  of  the  party  during  the 
winter — Author  frostbitten — Amusements — Departure  of  Mr.  Koitli — His 
letters — Author  and  party  ({uit  tlieir  winter  encampment — ilapid  change  of 
■eaaons — Arrive  at  Fort  George. 


Mr.  Alexandcii  Stewart  with  his  family  left  us  early  in 
September  to  take  charge  of  Lesser  Slave  Lake,  an  important 
department  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains,  at  which  place  it 
had  been  arranged  he  was  to  pass  the  winter.  He  expected  to 
have  met  Mr.  Keith  at  the  portage  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  on  his 
way  to  the  Columbia  with  despatches  from  Fort  William ;  but  a 
month  elapsed  before  the  arrival  of  that  gentleman,  during  which 
period  himself  and  family  suffered  great  privations  from  want 
of  food,  &c. 

The  distracted  state  of  the  interior,  owing  to  the  disputes  be- 
tween the  North-West  and  Hudson's-Bay  Companies,  added  to 
other  unexpected  circumstances,  impeded  the  progress  of  Mr. 
Keith,  who  did  not  reach  the  portage  until  the  15th  of  October. 
He  parted  from  Mr.  Stewart  on  the  following  day,  and  reached 
the  Chaudifere  falls  on  the  22d,  where  he  left  his  canoes,  and 
arrived  at  Spokan  House  on  the  24th,  having  previously  ordered 
the  men  to  drop  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  Spokan  river,  at 
which  place  we  were  to  join  thom.  Among  others,  I  received 
a  letter  by  him  from  my  friend  Mr.  John  Stewart,  dated  New 
Caledonia,*  25th  April,  1815,  from  which  the  following  is  an 
extract : 

"  I  find  that  the  affairs  of  the  Columbia  appear  to  be  getting 
from  bad  to  worse ;  and  the  many  difficulties  and  hardships, 
added  to  the  dangers  peculiar  to  that  unfortunate  department,  are 
hard  to  bear,  and  will  keep  me  particularly  anxious  until  I  hear 
the  result  of  the  expedition  ot'  this  spring  to  and  from  Fort 
George.  Although  the  various  encounters  you  have  had  with 
the  natives  should  have  taught  them  to  respect  the  whites,  and 
convince  them  that  nothing  is  to  be  gained  by  force  ;  yet  as  the 
attack  of  last  autumnf  was  both  daring  and  premeditated,  I  am 


1/ 


*  This  district  is  very  extensive,  and  lies  on  the  west  side  of  the  Rock/ 
Mountains. — It  communicates  with  Athabasca  department  by  Peace  River, 
and  extends  from  lat.  52°  to  55°  North. 

t  Alluding  to  the  attack  at  the  Wallah  Wallah  river,  the  particulara  of 
which  &r«  already  detailed. 


I.BTTEK   TROM   MR.    8TEWA11T. 


193 


afraid  it  is  but  the  forerunner  of  greater  aggression.  You  will, 
however,  liavt  one  great  advantage  in  the  spring,  wl»ich  is,  that 
if  the  natives  be  at  that  season  numerous  along  the  communi- 
cation, it  must  be  with  a  hostile  design,  and  [)erha|)s  by  begin- 
ning the  assault  yourselves,  you  will  be  enabled  to  counteract  its 
eHects,  Plausible,  however,  as  this  may  appear  in  theory,  it 
plight  probably  have  a  very  different  effect  in  practice.  1  shall 
therefore  leave  off  my  advice,  Icsf  you  might  say  to  me  what  Han- 
nibal did  to  the  pedant.  Althoiio;h  1  deeply  regret  myabsence  from 
my  friends  on  the  Columbia,  I  have  no  cause  to  complain  of  ray 
lot;  for  here,  if  not  perfectly  quiet,  we  are  at  least  /lois dc  danger. 
Messrs.  M'Dougal  and  llarman  arc  with  me  in  the  department. 
They  are  not  only  excellent  traders,  but  (what  is  a  greater  nov- 
elty in  this  country)  real  Christians,  and  I  sincerely  wish  that 
their  steady  and  pious  example  was  followed  by  others.  Wo 
are  at  separate  posts ;  but  as  we  feel  great  delight  in  each  other's 
company,  we  visit  as  often  as  the  situation  of  the  coiuitry  and 
our  business  will  permit ;  and  in  their  conversation,  which  is 
always  rational  and  instructive,  I  enj<  >y  some  of  the  most  agree- 
able moments  of  my  life. 

"  The  salmon  failed  with  us  last  season.  This  generally  occurs 
every  second  year,  and  completely  so  every  fourth  year,  at  which 
periods  the  natives  starve  in  every  direction. 

"  They  are  of  a  lazy,  indolent  disposition,  and,  as  a  livelihood 
is  rather  easily  procured,  seldom  give  them«<^l  ves  much  trouble 
in  hunting  the  beaver  or  any  animal  of  the  fur  kind. 

"  We  have  no  buffalo  or  deer,  except  the  carilmux  (reindeer)  ; 
&nd  not  many  even  of  those ;  so  that,  properly  speaking,  we 
may  say  that  water  alone  supplies  the  people  of  New  Caledonia 
with  food. 

"  The  natives  are  numerous,  and  live  stationary  in  villages  of 
the  same  description  as  those  on  the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia. 
In  their  looks  and  manner  they  bear  a  great  affinity  to  the  Chi- 
nooks.  The  meaning  of  their  national  name  is  "  Carriers  ;"  but 
the  people  of  each  village  have  a  separate  denomination.  In  a 
north-eastern  direction  their  country  nearly  borders  the  Colum- 
bia ;  but  no  white  man  knows  how  far  it  extends  towards  the 
north-west.  Their  language  little  varies  from  that  spoken  on  the 
seacoast.  The  Carriers  are  naturally  of  an  open  and  hospita- 
ble disposition ;  but  very  violent,  and  subject  to  sudden  gusts  of 
passion,  in  which  much  blood  is  often  shed.  However,  those 
quarrels  are  soon  made  up,  and  as  soon  forgotten. 

"  They  seldom,  even  in  the  most  favourable  seasons,  kill  many 
beaver  in  winter,  the  depth  of  the  snow  being,  as  they  allege, 
too  great.     The  utmost  we  can  therefore  do  is  to  collect  the  *•" 
produce  of  their  summer  hunt ;  which,  as  we  have  to  go  in  dif- 

Aa 


mi 


^ 

^^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


m  12.5 


■90 

y£   12.0 


118 

u 


m 


6" 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


\ 


iV 


•s^ 


\\ 


V 


^ 


Ci^ 


^. 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


i^>^ 
> 


%-P 


194 


DBPART1TRE — FLOATING   ICE. 


ferent  and  distant  directions,  is  a  work  of  much  labour,  and  takes 
up  a  great  portion  of  our  men's  time.  We  have  no  cause  to 
complain  of  last  year's  trade  ;  and,  to  finish  my  letter  like  a  true 
North-wester,  I  have  great  pleasure  in  acquaintirig  you  that  our 
returns  are  about  ninety-five  packs,*  which  is  a  sufficient  proof 
that  the  country  is  worth  beuig  attended  to,  and  that  it  is  sus- 
ceptible of  great  improvement." 

We  left  Spokan  House  on  the  26th  of  October,  and  having 
joined  the  canoes,  proceeded  to  Fort  George,  at  which  place  we 
arrived  on  the  8th  of  November. 

Owing  to  the  advanced  season  of  the  year,  we  hastened  our 
departure  for  the  interior,  and  accordingly  succeeded  in  quitting 
the  fort  on  the  19th  of  November.  Our  party  upwards  consisted 
of  Messrs.  Keith,  Montour,  Mackenzie,  and  myself,  with  fifty 
voyageurs,  and  Rivet  the  interpreter.  Not  being  accustomed  to 
travel  at  such  a  late  period,  we  found  the  weather  rather  cool 
for  the  first  few  days.  Owing  to  the  absence  of  the  Indians, 
few  of  whom  were  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  we  were 
deprived  of  our  ordinary  supply  of  horses  and  dogs  for  the 
kettle,  and  were  forced  to  have  recourse  to  our  winter  stock  of 
flour,  pork,  and  rice. 

After  passing  the  second  falls  the  cold  became  more  severe ; 
and  occasional  pieces  of  ice  drifting  down  the  current,  made  us 
fear  that  our  progress  would  be  considerably  obstructed  in  pro- 
portion as  we  advanced.  Our  apprehensions  were  unfortunately 
ealized.  As  far  as  the  entrance  of  Lewis  river  the  navigation 
was  tolerably  free ;  but  from  thence  the  masses  of  floating  ice 
became  so  large  and  numerous,  that  our  frail  little  barks  were  in 
momentary  danger  of  being  stove  to  pieces,  and  it  required  all 
the  skill  and  labour  of  our  men  to  avoid  them,  and  prevent  the 
fatal  consequences  that  would  have  inevitably  followed  such  col- 
lisions. When  it  is  recollected  that  we  had  to  stem  a  strong 
current  in  vessels  built,  some  of  thin  cedar  plaivk.  aid  others  of 
the  bark  of  the  birch-tree,  and  all  heavily  laden,  it  may  naturally 
be  supposed  that  our  fears  were  not  sroundless. 

For  three  days  our  advance  was  slow  through  this  dangerous 
navigation ;  but  early  on  the  fourth  a  scene  presented  itself  which 
seened  likely  to  put  a  final  stop  to  our  progress.  Some  large 
masses  of  ice  in  their  descent  got  entangled  among  the  numerous 
rocks  of  a  long  and  crocked  rapid ;  these  were  quickly  followed 
by  others,  until  the  whole  presented  at  the  time  of  our  arrival  a 
line  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  extent,  of  hi^h,  sharp,  and  fan- 
tastically shaped  glaciers.    Our  men  immediately  commenced 

4ff/    *  Each  pack  weighs  ninetj  pounds,  and  contains  on  an  average  flrom  fifty  to 
sixty  beaver-skins. 


X 

( 

b 
a 

c 

t 

8 
S 
0 

c 

X 

] 

t 
I 
t 

< 

1 


BXUAUSnON— SPEECB  OF  BAZIL  LVCU. 


the  portage  with  the  greatest  good-humour,  and  finished  it  late 
in  the  evening,  when  we  were  r'}liged  to  encamp  in  the  dark, 
with  scarcely  wood  sufficient  to  cook  our  cheerless  supper.  The 
current  on  the  following  day  was  partially  free  from  ice,  and  we 
began  to  hope  that  we  had  passed  the  worst,  until  we  arrived  at 
a  particular  oend  of  the  river,  at  which  there  was  another  rapid, 
choked  up  with  a  similar  chain  of  glaciers,  but  of  greater  magni- 
tude. The  men,  who  had  endured  excessive  hardships,  still  did 
not  grumble,  and  began  the  portage  in  high  spirits.  We  had 
not  advanced  more  than  half  over  it  when  the  approach  of  dark- 
ness, joined  to  an  unexpected  supply  of  drift-wood,  induced  us 
to  stop  for  the  night,  which  we  passed  in  tolerable  comfort.  We 
finished  the  portage  the  following  morning  before  breakfast ;  and 
the  remainder  of  the  day  was  hard  labour,  between  rapids  and 
drifting  ice.  We  encamped  late  at  the  foot  of  a  long  rapid. 
The  men  were  greatly  fatigued,  and  some  of  them  knocked  up. 
Early  the  next  morning,  after  each  man  got  a  refreshing  glass  of 
rum,  thev  commenced  their  work,  and  finished  the  portage  at 
noon.  About  two  miles  above  this  we  were  again  obliged  to 
unload,  and  carry  the  goods  and  canoes  upwards  of  nine  hun- 
dred yards. 

The  exhaustion  of  the  men  this  evening  was  extreme,  and  it 
became  quite  apparent  that  they  could  not  much  longer  endure 
a  continuance  ot  such  dreadful  hardships. 

We  had  previously  ascertained  that  the  river  was  frozen  a 
considerable  distance,  and  during  a  walk  of  three  miles,  which  I 
took  with  Mr.  Keith,  it  was  one  firm  thick  body  of  ice. 

We  breakfasted  on  the  following  morning  at  our  encampment ; 
shortly  after  which  a  body  of  the  men  approached  the  tent,  and 
sent  in  word  that  they  wished  to  speak  to  Mr.  Keith.  He  came 
out,  when  their  spokesman,  Bazil  Lucie,  one  of  the  best  and  most 
obedient  men  in  the  brigade,  begged  leave  in  a  respectful  man- 
ner to  address  a  few  words  to  mm  on  their  present  situation. 
He  stated  that  he  and  his  comrades  were  reduced  to  the  lowest 
degree  of  weakness  from  the  excessive  and  unexpected  labour 
they  had  undergone  ;  that  while  there  was  the  least  possibility  of 
reaching  their  destination  they  did  not  repine ;  but  from  the  con- 
tinued mass  of  ice  and  chains  of  rapids  before  them,  that  object 
was  at  present  unattainable.  He  noped  Mr.  Keith  would  not 
consider  their  conduct  in  a  mutinous  point  of  view.  They  were 
ready  and  willing  to  attempt  all  that  men  could  achieve,  with 
even  the  slightest  prospect  of  success ;  but  worn  down  as  they 
were,  they  felt  themselves  quite  inadequate  to  make  any  further 
efforts  towards  extricating  us  from  our  disagreeable  situation. 

Mr.  Keith  glanced  at  the  group,  in  whose  features  he  read  a  # 
coincidence  of  sentiment  with  their  speaker,  joined  to  a  deter- 


li 


i 


196      REPLY— SCARCITY   OF  PROVISIONS MOUNT  NELSOW. 

.gL  mination  of  manner  which,  though  humble  and  respectful,  still 
^  evidently  showed  that  their  resolution  was  fixed,  and  was  the 
result  of  previous  deliberation. 

The  principles  of  passive  obedience  and  nonresistance  in 
Tf hich  the  Canadian  voyageurs  are  brought  up,  appeared  to  be 
endangered  by  this  combination  ;  and  the  idea  that  his  men  were 
the  first  that  ever  dared,  in  the  Indian  country,  even  to  remon- 
strate, gave  a  temporary  shock  to  his  pride  ;  it  was,  however, 
transient.  Justice  and  reason  triumphed,  and  dissipated  in  a 
moment  the  slight  symptoms  of  wounded  dignity  that  at  first 
rufiled  his  countenance. 

Mr.  Keith  told  them  that  he  had  no  wish  to  force  them  to  any 
labour  incompatible  with  their  strength ;  that  his  only  object  was 
if  possible  to  get  to  their  destinations,  which  at  present  he 
admitted  could  not  be  done  ;  that  he  did  not  find  fault  with  them 
for  the  expression  of  their  sentiments,  and  regretted  that  they 
had  not  all  a  more  comfortable  wintering  ground. 

Lucie,  after  a  short  consultation  with  the  men,  replied  that 
they  all  felt  particularly  grateful  for  the  kind  and  considerate 
manner  he  had  received  their  appeal,  and  promised  that  no  exer- 
tions on  their  part  should  be  wanting  to  contribute  to  the  comfort 
of  himself  and  the  other  gentlemen. 

There  was  fortunately  about  the  encampment  plenty  of  drift- 
wood, of  which,  in  a  short  time  they  collected  an  immense  quan- 
tity. The  trading  goods  were  piled  up  in  a  safe  situation ;  and 
with  the  assistance  of  the  canoes,  tarpaulins,  and  sails,  the  men 
constructed  tolerably  good  cots  for  themselves. 

We  had  a  large  tarpaulin  porch  erected  in  front  of  our  tent, 
to  which  it  was  joined.  In  this  porch  we  sat  to  enjoy  the  fire, 
the  sparks  from  which  we  feared  would  have  injured  the  canvass 
of  our  cold  habitation.  Our  situation  was  disagreeably  novel. 
About  three  hundred  miles  from  our  nearest  post,  with  no  means 
of  approaching  it,  and  no  provisions  save  the  scanty  supply  we 
had  brought  for  consumption  on  our  journey,  and  the  usual 
quantities  of  rice  and  flour  for  our  winter  holydays.  We  had 
seen  no  Indians  for  several  days,  and  our  hopes  of  succour  from 
them  were  consequently  very  weak.  Our  hunters  were  also 
unsuccessful,  and  reported  that  the  surrounding  country  was 
devoid  of  any  animals  that  could  be  made  subservient  to  our 
support.     Neither  did  they  in  their  different  trips  see  any  vesti- 

§es  of  the  natives ;  and  most  of  the  poor  fellows  returned  from 
leir  cold  and  hungry  journeys  with  frost-bitten  fingers  and  toes. 
About  ten  miles  from  our  encampment,  in  the  midst  of  the 
extensive  plains  on  the  north  side,  there  is  a  high  and  cou'cally- 
i^  shaped  hill,  which  has  been  honoured  with  the  name  of  Mount 
Nelson,  to  which  Mr.  Keith  and  I  determined  to  proceed,  for 


f 


s* 


AtTTnOR  VROST-BITTEN — TBAVELLINO   LIBRARY. 


197 


,^ 


the  purpose  of  surveying  the  surrounding  country.  The  ground 
was  covered  with  concealed  snow,  and  after  an  arduous  walk 
we  reached  the  summit  of  the  solitary  mountain  We  had  a 
widely-extended  prospect  of  the  great  plains  in  their  wintry 
clothing :  their  undulations  reminded  us  of  the  ocean,  when  the 
troubled  waves  begin  to  subside  after  a  storm  ;  while  the  occa- 
sional appearance  of  leafless  trees  in  the  distance,  partially  diver- 
sifying the  chilling  scene,  resembled  the  shattered  masts  of  ves- 
sels that  had  suffered  in  the  conflict  of  waters. 

In  vain  did  we  strain  our  eyes  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  any  thing 
in  human  or  animal  shape.  Neither  man,  nor  fowl,  nor  cattle, 
nor  beasts,  nor  creeping  thing,  met  our  longing  and  expectant 
gaze.  Animated  nature  seemed  to  have  abandoned  the  dreary 
solitude,  and  silent  desolation  reigned  all  around. 

We  reached  the  encampment  late  in  the  evening,  shortly  after 
which  I  felt  an  unusual  pain  under  the  ball  of  one  of  my  great 
toes.  On  examination,  I  ascertained  that  during  our  late  walk  a 
hole  had  been  worn  in  the  sole  of  my  moccasin,  which  caused 
the  toe  to  be  frost-bitten.  By  the  advice  of  our  experienced 
Canadians  I  had  it  immediately  rubbed  with  snow,  keeping  it,  at 
the  same  time,  some  distance  from  the  fire.  The  operation  was 
p&inful ;  but  it  preserved  the  joint.  After  a  few  days'  rubbing 
the  skin  became  white,  and  ultimately  peeled  off  like  that  of  a 
whitlow  when  it  begins  to  heal.  This  was  succeeded  by  a  new 
covering,  which  in  a  short  time  became  as  strong  as  formerly. 

A  few  years  before,  one  of  the  clerks,  named  Campbell,  while 
out  with  a  hunting  party,  met  with  a  similar  accident.  He  was 
a  novice  in  the  country,  and  contrary  to  the  advice  of  his  men, 
kept  the  frozen  part  at  the  fire,  and  refused  to  rub  it  with  snow. 
The  consequence  was  a  mortification,  which  in  a  few  days 

E roved  fatal ;  for  at  the  place  where  the  circumstance  occurred 
e  was  between  2000  and  3000  miles  from  medical  assistance. 
This  was  the  only  time,  during  my  residence  in  America,  that 
I  got  nipped  by  the  frost ;  indeed  the  inhabitants  of  our  islands 
in  general  bear  cold  better  than  the  Canadians,  several  of  whom 
belonging  to  our  parly,  although  they  weie  more  warmly  clothed, 
suffered  severely  in  their  extremities. 

Were  it  not  for  the  plentiful  supply  of  fuel,  our  situation 
would  have  been  insupportably  miserable  in  this  wretched 
encampment.  As  it  was,  our  time  passed  heavily  enough.  Our 
travelling  library  was  on  too  small  a  scale  to  afiord  much  intel- 
lectual enjoyment.  It  only  consisted  of  one  book  of  hymns, 
two  song-books,  the  latest  edition  of  Joe  Miller,  and  Darwin's 
Botanic  Garden.  The  Canadians  could  not  join  us  in  the  hymns, 
and  we  endeavoured  in  vain  to  tune  our  pipes  for  profane  har-j^ 
mony.    "Yankey  Doodle,"  the  "Frog's  Courtship,"  and  the 


108 


AMCSBMBNTC — RECOLLECTIONS  OF  CRRISTMAI. 


**  Poker,"  wCid  the  only  three  that  came  within  the  scope  of  our 
Tocal  abilities.  In  fine  weather  our  friend  Mackenzie  attempted 
with  tolerable  success  the  simple  ditty  of 

The  devil  flew  away  with  the  little  tailor 
And  the  broad-cloth  under  his  arm. 


m 


Our  constant  perusal  of  old  Joe  made  us  so  intimately 
acquainted  with  all  his  super-excellent  good  things,  that  we 
unconsciously  became  punsters,  and  were  noted  for  many  a  day 
thereafter  as  the  greatest  men  in  the  country  for  choice  hits  and 
double-entendres. 

As  for  Darwin,  we  were  almost  tempted  to  commit  him  to 
the  flames :  for  to  read  of  the  loves  of  the  plants,  when  we  knew 
they  were  all  buried  in  their  cold,  cold  grave,  and  waiting  like 
ourselves  for  the  renovating  influence  of  spring,  only  gave  addi- 
tional torment  to  our  situation. 

In  the  intervals  between  harmony,  joking,  and  botany,  as  we 
sat  striving  to  warm  ourselves  under  the  tarpaulin  porch,  half 
blinded  by  the  pufis  of  smoke  sent  in  by  cold  easterly  gusts,  we 
endeavoured  to  amuse  each  other  by  a  detail  of  each  schoolboy 
adventure,  each  juvenile  anecdote,  and  each 

Moving  accident  by  flood  or  field, 

that  had  ever  befallen  us.  But  on  the  arrival  of  dear  delightful 
Christmas, — thut  happy  season  of  festivity,  when  the  poor  man's 
table  displays  the  accumulated  savings  oi  an  economical  advent, 
and  the  rich  man's  groans  under  more  than  its  accustomed  pro- 
fusion ;  when  emancipation  from  the  birch  expands  the  youthful 
heart  into  joy  and  gladness,  and  the  partially-forgotten  friend- 
ships of  the  old  are  renewed  with  greater  fervency ;  when  all 
denominations  of  Christians  combine  social  pleasure  with  inno- 
cent amusement,  and  join  in  praise  and  thanksgiving  to  Him 
who  came  to  save  us ; — our  thoughts  wandered  towaras  home, 
and  the  happy  faces  surrounding  the  quiet  and  domestic  hearth : 
the  contrast  was  too  strong  for  our  philosophy,  and  we  were 
almost  tempted  to  call  down  inverted  benedictions  on  the  unfor- 
tunate beaver,  and  those  who  first  invented  beaver  hats,  beaver 
bonnets,  and  beaver  cloaks!  From  that  moment  I  began  to 
balance  between  the  comparatively  pleasing  uncertainties  of 
civilized  life,  and  the  sad  realities  to  which  the  life  of  an  Indian 
trader  is  exposed.  On  the  one  side  I  placed — exile,  starvation, 
Indian  treachery,  piercing  colds,  or  burning  heats,  with  the  damp 
earth  too  oflen  for  a  bed;  no  society  for  a  great  portion  of  the 
year,  except  stupid  Canadian  voyageurs,  or  selfish,  suspicious 


i  r 


■^ 


•4: 


fi,* 


MR.  Keith's  departvre — argument  on  cookery.    109 

natives :  ideas  semi-barbarized  by  a  long  estrangement  from  the  ^ 
civilized  world ;  and  should  I  even  survive  these  accumulated 
evils,  and  amass  a  few  thousands,  to  find,  on  returning  to  my 
native  country,  the  friends  of  my  youth  dead,  and  myself  for- 
gotten ;  with  a  broken-down  and  debilitated  constitution ;  an 
Indian  wife  and  a  numerous  offspring,  whose  maternal  tint, 
among  the  proud  and  the  unthinking,  too  oilen  subjects  them  to 
impertinent  insult  and  unmerited  obloquy. 

To  a  British  reader  it  would  be  useless  to  enumerate  the 
opposing  items,  or  to  mention  on  which  side  the  scale  preponde- 
rated :  it  is  enough  to  say  that  I  determined  on  the  earliest  oppor- 
tunity to  exchange  dog  for  mutton,  and  horse  for  beef;  icv 
winters  and  burning  summers  for  our  own  more  temperate  cli- 
mate ;  and  copper  beauties  for  fair  ones. 

1816. 

A  few  men  who  had  been  despatched  on  foot  to  Oakinagan 
succeeded  in  reaching  that  place,  and  returned  early  in  January 
with  sixteen  horses,  so  wretchedly  lean  that  they  were  quite 
unfit  for  the  kettle,  and  almost  unserviceable  for  any  purpose. 
However,  after  a  few  days'  rest,  Mr.  Keith  selected  eight  of  the 
strongest,  which  he  loaded ;  and  with  which,  accompanied  with 
Mr.  Montour  and  a  party  of  the  men,  he  set  off  for  Oakinagan. 
They  took  the  greater  portion  of  the  portable  vivres  with  them. 

Mr.  Keith's  departure  was  a  sensible  loss  to  our  little  society. 
Gifted  by  nature  with  faculties  of  no  ordinary  description,  he 
had  the  advantages  of  an  early  and  excellent  education,  which 
he  subsequently  improved  by  an  extensive  course  of  reading. 
He  also  possessed  a  sound,  vigorous  understanding,  with  a  strong 
memory;  and  had  not  fortune  cast  him  among  the  wilds  of 
savage  America,  1  have  no  doubt  he  would  have  attained  emi- 
nence in  any  profession  he  might  have  chosen  in  his  native 
country. 

Mackenzie  and  I  passed  six  more  melancholy  weeks  in  this 
spot,  during  which  period  we  did  not  see  an  Indian.  Our  time 
would  have  passed  heavily  enough,  only  that  we  fortunately 
agreed  on  no  single  subject.  Episcopacy  and  Presbyterianism^ 
with  all  their  onshoots,  formed  a  prolific  source  of  polemic 
recreation ;  and  when  we  became  tired  of  the  mitre  and  the 
kirk,  we  travelled  back  to  Ossian  and  the  Culdees.  We  argued 
on  the  immutability  of  the  Magellanic  clouds.  We  discussed 
the  respective  merits  of  every  writer  to  whom  the  authorship 
of  Junius  has  been  attributed.  We  differed  on  the  best  mode 
of  cooking  a  leg  of  mutton ;  and  could  not  agree  as  to  the  supe-  ^ 
riority  of  a  haggis  over  a  harico,  or  of  Ferintosh  overlnishowen. 
Plum-pudding  and  rice  each  had  its  champion ;  and  when  he 


i'^i^l 


LETTER   rnOM    MR.  KEITH. 


^Ilbpl 


i 


86  in  all  his  strength  and  thought  to  destroy  me  with  the  plen- 
tiful variety  of  a  Scotch  breakfast,  I  at  once  floored  him  with 
the  solid  substantiality  of  an  English  dinner.  Thus  with  empty 
stomachs  and  half-famished  bodies  we  argued  on  luxuries  while 
we  anticipated  starvation  ;  and  we  often  awoke  from  the  pleas- 
ing dream  of  a  fat  "  sirloin  "  to  attack  the  melancholy  ribs  of  a 
fleshless  horse.* 

Mr.  Keith  reached  Oakinagan  on  the  28th  January,  and  on 
the  following  day  addressed  me  a  letter,  an  extract  from  which 
may  not  be  uninteresting  to  the  reader. 

*'  The  loaded  horses  performed  the  journey  hither  in  about 
the  time  we  had  anticipated,  having  arrived  here  without  any 
material  accident  (except  drowning  Guenillon)  yesterday.  As 
for  myself,  having  left  them  on  the  26th,  accompanied  by  Fran- 
cois, with  the  intention  of  reaching  the  fort  that  day,  I  accom- 
plished my  object  at  the  expense  of  your  Foil  de  Souria  and  my 
Blond.  The  latter  gave  up  about  three  miles  from  the  end  of  his 
journey,  and  yours  brought  me  on  slowly.  Having  once  gone 
ahead,  I  had  no  alternative  but  to  push  on,  bon  gri  mal  ere,  or 
encamp  without  blanket  or  supper :  which  circumstance  I  hope 
you  will  receive  as  a  sufficient  excuse  for  the  rough  treatment  I 
gave  your  horse.  Grosses  Pattes  I  he  honour  of  carrying 
my  saddle-bags  for  two  days  and  .  .  both  as  a  punishment 
for  his  laziness,  and  as  a  relief  to  hard  .  »ing  horses.  Our  busi- 
ness here  has  been  considerably  retarded  in  consequence  of  our 
having  ^iven  a  regal  to  the  men  in  lieu  of  the  New-Year's  festivi- 
ties, which  you  know  were  douloureusement  triste.  The  party 
for  Thompson's  river  took  their  departure  the  day  before  yes- 
terday ;  and  owing  to  some  delay  about  procuring  Indian  canoes, 
the  Spokan  people  only  crossed  the  river  to-day.  I  have  settled 
with  Mr.  Ross  to  send  you  four  additional  horses  for  consump- 
tion, in  charge  of  two  men,  who  will  leave  this  on  the  1st  prox- 
imo. The  weather  here  has  been  latterly  very  mild,  which, 
coupled  with  other  circumstances,  induces  uie  to  think  that  you 
have  been  enabled  to  quit  your  encampment." 

Mr.  Keith  was  however  mistaken  as  to  his  hopes  of  a  favour- 
able change  in  the  navigation.  Another  letter,  dated  "  Spokan 
House,  February  10th,"  soys — "  After  a  very  unpleasant  and 
irksome  journey,  occasioned  by  bad  roads  and  the  low  and 
exhausted  state  of  our  horses,  I  arrived  here  on  the  8th,  and  the 
loaded  horses  yesterday.  We  left  several  of  the  poor  animals 
on  the  way.    Le  Gris  le  Galeaux  I  left  in  charge  of  a  middle- 

*  Poor  Mackenzie  !  In  1828  I  received  a  lelter  from  tha  Columbia  announ- 
cing the  melancholy  intelligence  that  ho  and  four  of  his  men  had  the  pre- 
ceding year  been  surprised  by  the  savsges  on  Fraser's  river,  who  barbarously 
murdered  the  entire  party. 


\ 


'i\ 


i 


RAPID   CHANGES. 


201 


a^ed  Indian,  with  a  note  addressed  to  you.  I  was  obliged  to 
give  six  others  in  charge  to  the  bearer,  whom  you  will  please 
to  reward.  They  were  quite  exhausted.  Their  names  arc, 
La  Gueule  de  trovers,  La  Tile  Plate,  La  Courtc  Oreille,  La 
Crime  de  la  petite  Chienne,  Le  Pail  de  Souria,  and  Gardepie. 
As  you  will  probably  bo  reduced  to  avail  yourself  of  the  same 
■hills,  I  should  hope  those  horses  will  be  tolerably  well  recruited 
bv  the  time  of  your  arrival.  Men  Petit  Gria,  IjQ  Queue  Coupee, 
De  la  Vallee,  with  La  Crhne  de  la  Come  f endue,  and  Iai  petite 
Rouge  (nez  blanc),  belonging  to  the  Company,  liavc  been  left  in 
charge  of  the  bearer's  brother.  Upwards  of  three  hundred 
beavers  have  been  picked  up  since  our  departure  for  the  sea  ;  bat 
starvation  is  staring  us  in  the  face,  unless  we  eat  the  melancholy 
remnant  of  our  lean  horses.     The  natives  are  abundantly  sup- 

E lied  with  c/iewrctij"/ ;  but  they  cannot  be  prevailed  on  to  risk 
illing  their  emaciated  and  worn-down  horses  bv  bringing  any 
meat  to  the  fort.  I  am  daily  flattering  myself  by  anticipation 
with  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  pop  in.  However,  as  this  is 
leap-year,  we  must  make  some  extra  allowance.  Were  all  leap- 
years  invariably  attended  with  the  same  difliculties  and  obstacles 
which  we  have  encountered  this  winter,  I  would  cheerfully  give 
up  one  day  quadrennially  of  my  life,  at  the  expense  of  shorten- 
ing my  existence,  provided  such  a  sacrifice  could  preserve  things 
in  their  natural  channel." 

About  the  middle  of  February  the  snow  and  ice  began  to  show 
strong  symptoms  of  solar  influence.  The  former  disappeared 
with  wonderful  rapidity,  and  the  loud  crackling  of  the  latter  gave 
notice  of  its  continual  disruption.  I  sent  a  few  men  a  day's 
march  ahead,  who  brought  back  word  that  .*he  ice  was  so  far 
broken  up  that  we  might  try  our  fortune  once  more  on  water. 
We  therefore  prepared  for  embarkation  ;  and  having  killed  our 
two  last  horses,  we  bade  adieu  on  the  16th  of  February  to  our 
hibernal  encampment,  without  experiencing  one  feeling  of  regret 
at  the  separation.  For  a  few  days  our  progress  was  slow,  and 
exposed  to  much  danger  from  the  immense  quantity  of  floating 
ice,  to  avoid  which  required  all  the  strength  and  ingenuity  of 
our  voyageurs. 

Afler  many  narrow  escapes  we  reached  Oakinagan  on  the 
28th  of  February,  with  empty  stomachs  and  exhausted  bodies. 
To  a  person  accustomed  to  the  gradual  revolutions  of  the 
seasons  in  Europe,  an  American  winter  changes  with  surprising 
rapidity.  In  less  than  a  week  from  the  first  appearance  of 
warmth, 


-subdued, 


The  iroat  resolves  into  a  trickling  thaw. 

Spotted  the  inountainii  shine  ;  loose'  tsleet  descends, 

Bb 


# 


i03 


P. 


ii 


ARRIVAL  AT   VORT   OEOROE — CARNTVAl. 

And  floodi  th«  counlry  round.    The  rtTen  twell, 
or  bonds  impatient.     Sudden  from  the  hille, 
0*er  rocks  and  woods  in  broad  brown  cataracts, 
A  thousand  snow-fed  torrenta  shoot  at  once  ! 


The  disappearance  of  the  snow  was  followed  by  the  most 
delightful  and  refreshing  verdure,  and  the  early  symptoms  of 
vegetation  gave  us  assurance  that 

Gentle  spring  in  ethereal  mildneM 

was  once  more  about  to  gladden  the  heart  of  man  ;  while  the 
light-hearted  Canadians  under  its  genial  influence  again  chanted 
forth  their  wild  and  pleasik?g  cliansons  a  Vaviron. 

We  remained  a  few  days  at  Oakinagan  to  recruit  the  men ; 
after  which  I  proceeded  with  my  party  to  Spokan  House,  at 
which  place  we  arrived  on  the  9tn  of  March. 

Mr.  JKeith  had  been  for  some  time  under  great  anxietv  as  to 
our  fate,  and  had  despatched  several  Indians  towards  the  Co- 
lumbia with  letters  to  me,  some  of  which  I  received  en  route. 

The  Flat-head  and  Cootonais  parties  had  arrived  a  few  days 
previously :  but  owing  to  their  want  of  a  sufficient  supply  of 
goods,  occasioned  by  our  stoppnse  on  the  ice,  they  made  an 
indiflerent  winter's  trade.  We  had  scarce!;^  time  to  recount 
to  each  other  the  various  uncos  we  had  experienced  during  the 
winter,  when  we  were  obliged  to  prepare  for  our  spring  voyage 
to  the  sea.  We  left  Spokan  House  on  the  20th  or  March,  and 
having  joined  the  other  parties  at  Oakinagan,  proceeded  with 
them  downwards.  The  Columbia  was  one  continued  torrent^ 
owing  to  the  thousand  little  rivulets  which  the  thaw  had  forced 
into  it,  and  the  beds  of  which  in  the  summer  season  are  quite 
dry,  or  hardly  visible.  Our  passage  was  consequently  rapid, 
and  we  arrived  at  the  sea  on  the  3a  of  April.  Our  friends  at 
Fort  George  were  all  in  prime  health,  and  had  weathered  out 
the  winter  in  a  much  more  comfortable  manner  than  we  had. 
Mr.  M'Tavish  had  made  a  trip  in  the  Company's  schooner  to 
the  southward,  and  touched  at  the  Spanish  settlements  of  Mon- 
terey and  St.  Francisco,  at  which  places,  in  exch'^ng*)  for  the 
produce  of  England,  he  obtained  a  plentiful  supply  of  an  article 
which  is  in  great  request  among  the  Chinese,  and  for  which  the 
unsophisticated  traders  of  Canton  will  barter  their  finest  com- 
modities ;  I  mean  hona-fide  silver  made  into  the  shape  of  Spanish 
dollars,  half-dollars,  or  pistareens. 

As  a  fresh  supply  of  trading  goods  was  required  in  the  interior, 
our  stay  at  Fort  George  was  necessarily  short.  It  was,  how- 
ever, a  complete  carnival  among  proprietors,  clerks,  interpreters, 
guides,  and  canoe-men.    Each  voyageur  received  a  liberal  extra 


(» 


ARKIVAL  AT  OAKCfAOAlT— IfBW  BUILDINOI. 


903 


allowance  of  rum,  suffar,  flour,  &c.,  and  a  fortnight  of  continual 
dissipation  obliterated  all  recollection  of  the  frozen  and  lenten 
severity  of  the  by-gone  winter. 


as  to 
c  Co- 


^  Canadians,  set  off 
mountains  to  Fort 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Aathor  placed  in  chargro  of  Oakinagan— ErecU  now  buildinga  thnre— MoaquU 
toea — Saaracity  of  the  horsui— Rattlesnakoa  good  food — Sanaparilla— Black 
■nakea — Climate — Whirlwinds — Handaome  aituation — Character  of  the 
tribe— Manner  of  trading — Extraordinary  curea  of  coniumption. 

On  the  I6th  of  April  we  took  our  departure  for  the  interior. 
Our  party  consisted  of  sixty-eight  men,  includmg  officers. 
Few  Indians  were  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  they  conducted 
themselves  peaceably.  We  arrived  at  Oakinagan  on  the  30th, 
from  whence  Mr.  John  George  M'Tavish,  accompanied  bjr 
Messrs.  La  Rocque,  Henry,  and  a  party  c 
for  the  purpose  of  proceeding  across  the 
William,  the  grand  central  depot  of  the  interior  on  the  east  side. 

Mr.  Ross,  who  had  been  for  the  last  two  years  in  chaige  of 
Oakinagan,  was  by  a  new  arrangement  detained  this  year  at 
Fort  George  as  one  of  the  staff  clerks ;  and  I  was  selected  as 
commandant  of  the  former  place.  Messrs.  M'Millan  and  Mon- 
tour were  sent  to  Spokan,  and  my  friend  M'Donald  proceeded 
to  Kamloops,  his  old  quarters.  A  sufficient  number  of  men 
were  lefl  with  me  for  all  purposes  of  hunting,  trading,  and 
defence ;  but,  for  the  first  time  since  I  entered  the  country,  I 
found  myself  without  a  colleague  or  a  companion. 

I  had  a  long  summer  before  me :  it  is  the  most  idle  season  of 
the  year;  and  as  it  was  intended  to  rebuild  and  fortify  Oakina- 
gan during  the  vacation,  I  lost  no  time  in  setting  the  men  to 
work. 

The  immediate  vicinitv  is  poorly  furnished  with  timber,  and 
our  wood-cutters  were  obliged  to  proceed  some  distance  up  the 
river  in  search  of  that  necessary  article,  which  was  floated  down 
in  rafls.  We  also  derived  considerable  assistance  from  the  im- 
munse  quantities  of  drifl-wood  which  was  intercepted  in  its  descent 
down  the  Columbia  by  the  great  bend  which  that  river  takes 
above  Oakinagan.  "  Many  nands  make  light  work ;"  and  our 
men  used  sucn  despatch,  that  before  the  month  of  September 
we  had  erected  a  new  dwelling-house  for  the  person  in  charge, 
containing  four  excellent  rooms  and  a  large  dining-hall,  two 
good  houses  for  the  men,  and  a  spacious  store  for  the  furs  and 


1^- 


■^  1 


i, 


/ 1» 


^ 


It 


I 


304 


MonqviToct.      *      '^  * 


4^ 


morchandifio,  to  which  was  attached  a  shop  for  tradins  with'the 
natives.  The  whole  was  surroiiiKled  by  stronff  palisades  fifteen 
feet  high,  anti  flanked  by  two  bastions.  Each  bastion  had,  in  its 
lower  story,  a  light  brass  four-pounder ;  and  in  tlie  upper,  loop- 
holes were  left  for  the  use  of  musketry. 

Our  living  consistecl  of  salmon,  horse,  wild-fowl,  grouse,  and 
small  deer,  with  tea  and  colVee  ;  but  without  the  usual  adjuncts 
of  milk,  bread,  or  butter.  However,  we  looked  upon  those 
articles  as  excellent  faie,  and  in  point  of  living,  th'.refore,  had 
no  cause  of  complaint  throughout  the  summer. 

I  brought  from  Fort  George  a  few  bottles  of  essence  of  spruce, 
and  by  Allowing  the  printed  directions  made  excellent  beer, 
which  in  the  warm  weather  I  found  a  delightful  an-*  healthy 
beverage. 

Owing  to  the  intense  heat  the  men  were  obliged  to  leave  off 
work  eveiy  day  at  eleven,  and  did  not  resume  until  between  two 
and  three  m  the  aflernoon,  by  which  period  the  burning  influ- 
ence of  the  sun  began  to  decline.  In  the  interval  they  generally 
slept. 

The  mosquitoes  seldom  annoyed  us  at  midday ;  but  when 
we  wished  to  enjoy  the  refreshing  coolness  of  a  morning  or 
evening's  walk,  they  fastened  on  us  with  their  infernal  stings, 
against  which  we  had  no  defence  except  leather.  By  smoking, 
we  might  indeed  keep  them  at  a  civil  distance  from  our  noses 
and  the  parts  thereunto  adjacent ;  but  this  was  a  preventive 
which,  if  constantly  practised,  would  have  in  a  short  time  redu- 
ced our  tobacco  to  a  small  quantity. 

The  annoyance  during  our  meals  was  worse.  We  were 
obliged  to  have  an  iron  pot  at  each  end  of  the  table,  filled  with 
saw-dust  or  rotten  wood  ;  which  substance,  when  ignited,  pro- 
duced a  quantity  of  thick  smoke  without  flame.  It  effectually 
drove  them  away ;  but  it  was  a  desperate  remedy ;  for  during 
the  process  of  mastication  we  were  nearly  suffocated  from  the 
dense  clouds  of  vapour  by  which  we  were  enveloped.  In  the 
mean  time  our  tormentors  hovered  about  the  doors  and  windows, 
watching  the  gradual  dispersion  of  the  smoke ;  and  the  moment 
the  atmosphere  became  sufficiently  clear  they  charged  in  from 
all  directions  on  our  heads,  necks,  ears,  face,  and  hands,  from 
whence  it  was  impossible  to  dislodge  them,  until  a  fresh  supply 
of  saw-dust,  thrown  over  the  dying  embers,  put  them  once  more 
to  flight. 

The  horses  also  suffered  severely  from  these  insects  and  the 
horse-flies.  We  caused  several  fires  of  rotten  wood  to  be  made 
in  the  prairie  in  which  they  were  grazing,  and  round  which  they 
instinctively  congregated  to  avail  themselves  of  the  protection 
afforded  by  the  smoke.    Those  which  had  short  tails  and  cropped 


f ,  f- 


.^™''*^ 


■  ATTLBINAKBI 


-INDIAN    nBLICACIM. 


905 


manea  auiTered  more  than  tho  others  ;  for  with  theao  wcaponi  of 
nature  (of  which,  in  America,  at  nil  events,  it  is  cruel  to  deprive 
them)  they  could  whisk  off  greiit  miinlMirfl  of  the  enemy  ;  while 
the  cropped  horses,  having  no  such  defence,  often  hud  their  hoofi 
and  legs  severely  l)urncd  by  standing  in  the  fires  to  avoid  the 
itings  of  their  asNuilunts.  I  have  often  observed  the  poor  ani- 
mals, when  the  smoke  began  to  evaporate,  gallop  up  to  the  fort, 
and  neigh  in  the  most  significant  manner  for  u  fresh  supply  of 
damp  fuel ;  and  onj>erceiving  the  men  unpointed  for  that  purpose 
proceed  to  the  ditlerent  fires,  they  followed  th<;m,  nnd  waited 
with  the  most  sagacious  patience  until  tho  smoke  began  to  ascend 
and  disperse  their  tormentors. 

The  point  of  land  upon  which  the  fort  is  built  is  formed  by 
thejunction  of  the  Oakinagan  River  with  the  Columbia. 

The  point  is  about  three  miles  in  length  and  two  in  breadth. 
At  the  upper  end  is  a  chain  of  hills,  round  the  bnse  of  which 
runs  a  rocky  pathway  leading  to  the  upper  part  of  the  river. 
Rattlesnakes  abound  beyond  these  hills,  and  on  the  opposite 
tides  of  the  Oakinagan  and  Columbia  risers:  they  are  also 
found  on  both  sides  of  the  Columbia,  belo  "  its  junction  with 
the  former  stream ;  but  it  is  a  curious  fact,  that  on  the  point 
itself,  that  is,  from  tho  rocks  to  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers, 
a  rattlesnake  has  never  yet  been  seen.  The  Indians  are  unable 
to  account  for  this  peculiarity ;  and  as  wc  never  rend  of  St. 
Patrick  having  visited  that  part  of  the  world,  we  were  equally 
at  a  loss  to  divine  the  cause.  The  soil  is  dry,  nnd  rather  sandy, 
and  does  not  materially  differ  from  that  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

Immense  quantities  of  sarsaparilla  grow  on  Oakinagan  Point, 
which  at  times  proved  very  beneficial  f^o  some  of  our  valetudi- 
narians.* There  are  also  scattered  over  it  a  profusion  of  wild 
flowers,  some  of  beautiful  hues,  but  scarcely  any  odour.  Among 
them  the  sun-flower,  for  height  and  luxuriance,  is  conspicu- 
ous. This  is  the  favourite  plant  of  the  delightfu  llittle  hum- 
ming-bird (called  by  the  Canadians  oiseau  des  dames),  in  the 
flowers  of  which  it  banauets  nearly  the  livelong  day. 

Numbers  of  black  snakes  are  found  on  the  point ;  but  they  are 
perfectly  harmless.  We  caught  some  of  them  in  the  rooms ; 
and  a  few  have  been  found  at  times  quietly  coiled  up  in  the 
men's  beds.  The  rattlesnakes  were  very  numerous  about  the 
place  where  the  men  were  cutting  the  timber.  I  have  seen 
some  of  our  Canadians  eat  them  repeatedly  !  The  flesh  is  very 
white,  and,  they  assured  me,  had  a  delicious  taste.  Their  man- 
ner of  dressing  them  is  simple.     They  at  first  skin  the  snake  in 


im  -i^ 


',1 


*■  *-. 


*  Some  of  oar  man  were  lalivated  by  taking  a  strong  decoction  of  this  root. 


^m- 


*?«L. 


206 


HOT   WINDS — NATIVB  TBIBE. 


< 


the  same  manner  as  we  do  eels,  after  which  they  run  through 
the  body  a  small  stick,  one  end  of  which  is  planted  in  the  ground, 
leaning  towards  the  fire :  by  turning  this  brocket  occasionally, 
the  snake  is  shortly  roasted.  Great  caution  however  is  required 
in  killing  a  snake  for  eating ;  for  if  the  first  blow  fails,  or  only 
partially  stuns  him,  he  instantly  bites  himself  in  different  parts 
of  the  body,  which  thereby  becomes  poisoned,  and  would  prova 
fatal  to  any  person  who  should  partake  of  it.  The  best  method 
is  to  wait  until  he  begins  to  uncoil  and  stretches  out  the  body, 
preparatory  to  a  spring ;  when,  if  a  steady  aim  be  taken  with  a 
stick  about  six  feet  long,  it  seldom  fails  to  kill  with  the  first  blow. 

The  ciimate  of  Oakinagan  is  highly  salubrious.  We  hnve  for 
weeks  together  observed  the  blue  expanse  of  heaven  unobscured 
foy  a  single  cloud.  Rain,  too,  is  very  uncommon  ;  but  heavy 
dews  fall  during  the  night. 

Several  dreadful  whirlwinds  occurred  during  the  summer, 
which  in  their  effects  more  resemble  the  sirocco  than  any  thing 
I  had  ever  experienctd  in  America.  When  the  men  observed 
those  sudden  and  dangerous  squalls  rising,  they  threw  them- 
selves prostrate  on  the  ground,  to  avoid  the  clouds  of  sand  and 
dust  which  otherwise  would  have  blinded  them.  They  were 
generally  most  violent  on  the  hottest  days ;  and  on  some  occa- 
sions they  forced  the  planks  which  were  piled  at  the  sawpit 
several  feet  into  the  air. 

The  situation  of  Oakinagan  is  admirably  adapted  for  a  trading 
town.  With  a  fertile  soil,  a  healthy  climate,  horses  in  abundance 
for  land  carriage,  an  opening  to  the  sea  by  the  Columbia,  and  a 
communication  to  the  interior  by  it  and  the  Oakinagan ;  the 
rivers  well  stocked  with  fish ;  and  the  natives  quiet  and  friendly ; 
it  will  in  my  opinion  be  selected  as  a  spot  pre-eminently  cal- 
culated for  the  site  of  a  town,  when  civilization  (which  is  at 
8 resent  so  rapidly  migrating  towards  the  westward)  crosses  the 
Locky  Mountains  and  reaches  the  Columbia. 

The  natives  of  Oakinagan  are  an  honest,  quiet  tribe.  They 
do  not  muster  more  than  two  hundred  warriors ;  but  as  they 
are  on  terms  of  friendship  with  the  Kamloops,  Sinapoils,  and 
other  small  tribes  in  their  rear ;  and  as  the  Columbia  in  front 
forms  an  impassable  barrier  against  any  surprise  from  their  old 
enemies  the  Nez  Perces,  they  have  in  a  great  degree  forgotten 
the  practice  of  "  glorious  war,"  and  are  now  settled  down  into 
a  peaceful  and  rather  slothful  tribe.  Their  principal  occupa- 
ti'  -IS  consist  in  catching  and  curing  salmon,  and  occasionally 
hunting  for  deer  and  beaver,  neither  of  which  abounds  on  their 
lands.  Acts  of  dishonesty  are  of  rare  occurrence  among  either 
men  or  women ;  and  breaches  of  chastity  among  the  latter  are 
equally  infrequent  .       ,       .,„^   .^i.- 


<6k 


GAMBLING MANNER  OF  TRADING. 


207 


n  through 
he  ground, 
casionally, 
s  required 
Is,  or  only 
rent  parts 
>uld  prove 
St  method 
the  body, 
:en  with  a 
first  blow. 
3  have  for 
lobscured 
>ut  heavy 

summer, 
any  thing 
observed 
ew  them- 
sand  and 
hey  were 
•me  occa- 
lie  sawpit 

a  trading 
Sundance 
)ia,  and  a 
gan;  the 
friendly ; 
sntly  c&U 
lich  is  at 
osses  the 

They 
as  they 
oils,  and 
in  front 
their  old 
brgotten 
)wn  into 
occupa- 
isionally 
on  their 
ig  either 
tter  are 


«  V4 


The  chief  is  an  old  man,  who  apparently  possesses  but  little 
power.  However,  from  their  settled  habits  of  living,  and  long 
abstinence  from  war,  I  should  imagine  there  is  very  Tittle  neces- 
sity for  the  exercise  of  his  authority. 

Their  principal  amusement  is  gambling,  at  which  they  are  not 
so  quarrelsome  as  the  Spokans  and  other  tribes ;  but  when  any 
doubtful  case  occurs,  it  is  referred  for  arbitration  to  one  of  their 
elders,  by  whose  decision  the  parties  strictly  abide. 

Mr.  M'Gillivray  passed  the  winter  of  1813-14  here,  and  had 
only  four  or  five  men  with  him,  two  of  whom  were  generally 
absent  hunting.  The  buildings  at  that  period  were  very  poorly 
defended  ;  and,  were  the  natives  actuated  by  feelings  of  hos- 
tility, they  could  have  easily  robbed  the  fort  and  destroyed  his 
little  party.  This  circumstance  will  show  in  the  strongest  point 
of  view  their  friendly  feelings  towards  us. 

Their  manner  of  trading  resembles  that  of  most  other  tribes. 
A  party  arrive  at  the  fort  loaded  with  the  produce  of  their  hunt, 
which  they  throw  down,  and  round  which  they  squat  themselves 
in  a  circle.  The  trader  lights  the  calumet  of  peace,  and  direct- 
ing his  face  first  to  the  east,  and  so  to  the  other  cardinal  points, 
gives  at  each  a  solemn  puff.  These  are  followed  by  a  few  short 
quick  whiffs,  and  he  then  hands  the  calumet  to  the  chief  of 
the  party,  who  repeats  the  same  ceremony.  The  chief  passes 
it  to  the  man  on  his  right,  who  only  gives  a  few  whiffs,  and  so 
on  through  the  whole  party  until  the  pipe  is  smoked  out.  The 
trader  then  presents  them  with  a  quantity  of  tobacco  to  smoke 
ad  libitum,  which  they  generally  finish  before  commencing  their 
barter,  being,  as  they  say  themselves,  "  A  long  time  very  hungry 
for  a  smoke." 

When  the  smoking  terminates,  each  man  divides  his  skins 
into  different  lots.  For  one,  he  wants  a  gun ;  for  another,  am- 
munition ;  for  a  third,  a  copper  kettle,  an  axe,  a  blanket,  a  toma- 
hawk, a  knife,  ornaments  for  his  wife,  &c.,  according  to  the 
quantity  of  skins  he  has  to  barter. 

The  trading  business  being  over,  another  general  smoking- 
match  takes  place  ;  after  which  they  retire  to  their  village  or 
encampment.  They  are  shrewd,  hard  dealers,  and  not  a  whit 
inferior  to  any  native  of  Yorkshire,  Scotland,  or  Connaught,  in 
driving  a  bargain. 

The  Oakinagan  mode  of  curing  some  of  our  diseases  would 
probably  startle  many  of  the  faculty.  The  following  case  in 
particular  passed  under  my  own  observation : 

One  of  the  proprietors  had,  in  the  year  1814,  taken  as  a  wife 
a  young  and  beautiful  girl,  whose  father  had  been  one  of  the 
early  partners,  and  whose  mother  was  a  half  breed  (her  grand- 
mother having  been  a  native  of  the  Cree  tribe) ;   so  that. 


'i  5 


I  I 


.I^..tl.l  ^.^:.^.^„^... 


208 


MEDICAL  TREATMENT. 


J)  :■. 


1 


f 


although  not  z  ture  white,  she  was  fairer  than  many  who  are  bo 
called  in  Europe.  He  proceeded  with  her  to  Fort  George ; 
but  the  change  of  climate,  from  the  dry  and  healthy  plains  of 
Forts  des  Prairies  to  the  gloomy  forests  and  incessant  rains  on 
the  north-west  coast,  was  too  much  for  her  delicate  frame,  and 
jhe  fell  into  a  deep  consumption.  As  a  last  resource,  her  hus- 
band determined  to  send  her  to  Oakinagan  to  try  the  change 
of  air,  and  requested  me  to  procure  her  accommodation  at  that 
place  for  the  summer.  This  I  easily  managed.  She  was  ac- 
companied by  a  younger  sister,  and  an  old  female  attendant. 

For  some  days  after  her  arrival  we  were  in  hourly  expectation 
of  her  death.  Her  legs  and  feet  were  much  swollen,  and  so 
hard  that  the  greatest  pressure  created  no  sensation :  her  hair 
had  fallen  off  in  such  quantities  as  nearly  to  cause  baldness  ;  a 
sable  shade  surrounded  her  deeply  sunk  eyes.  She  was  in  fact 
little  more  than  a  skeleton,  with  scarcely  any  symptoms  of 
vitality,  and  her  whole  appearance  betokened  approaching  disso- 
lution. Such  was  the  state  of  the  unfortunate  patient,  when  an 
old  Indian,  who  had  for  some  days  observed  her  sitting  in  the 
porch-door,  where  she  was  brought  supported  on  pillows  to 
enjoy  the  fresh  air,  called  me  aside,  and  told  me  he  had  no  doubt 
of  being  able  to  cure  her  provided  I  should  agree  to  his  plan ;  but 
added,  that  he  would  not  give  any  explanation  of  the  means  he 
intended  to  use,  for  fear  we  might  laugh  at  him,  unlebs  we  con- 
sented to  adopt  them.  We  accordingly  held  a  consultation ;  the 
result  of  which  wai^,  that  the  Indian  should  be  allowed  to  follow 
his  own  method,  h  could  not  make  her  worse,  and  there  was  a 
possibility  of  succes.^. 

Having  acquainted  him  with  her  acquiescence,  he  immediately 
commenced  operatioi.s  by  seizing  an  ill-looking,  snarling,  cur 
dog,  which  he  half  strangled ;  afler  which  he  deliberately  cut 
its  throat.  He  then  ripped  open  the  belly,  and  placed  the  legs 
and  feet  of  the  patient  inside,  surrounded  by  the  warm  intes- 
tines, in  which  position  he  kept  them  until  the  carcass  became 
cold.  He  then  took  them  out,  and  bandaged  them  with  warm 
flannel,  which  he  said  was  "  very  good."  The  following  day 
another  dog  lost  its  life,  and  a  similar  operation  was  performed. 
This  was  continued  for  some  time,  until  every  ill-disposed  cur  in 
the  village  had  disappeared  by  the  throat-cutting  knife  of  our 
dog-destroying  doctor,  and  we  were  obliged  to  purchase  some 
of  a  superior  breed.  While  she  was  undergoing  this  process 
she  took,  in  addition,  a  small  quantity  of  bark  daily  in  a  glass  of 
port  wine.  In  the  mean  time  the  swelling  gradually  decreased, 
the  fingers  lost  their  corpse-like  nakedness,  the  hectic  flushes 
became  rarer,  and  "  that  most  pure  spirit  of  sense,"  the  eye, 
gave  evident  tokens  of  returning  animation.    When  her  strength 


* 


^ 


EXTRAORDmAHir  BATH->WONDEKFUL  RECOVERY.        209 

pennittedt  she  was  placed  on  the  carriage  of  a  brass  field-piece» 
supported  by  bolsters,  and  drawn  occasionally  a  milb  or  two 
about  the  prairie.  The  Indian  continued  at  intervals  to  repeat 
^  this  strange  application,  until  the  swelling  had  entirely  disap^ 
peared,  and  enabled  her  once  more  to  make  use  of  her  limbs. 

Two-and-thirty  dogs  lost  their  lives  in  bringing  about  this  ex- 
traordinary recovery,  and  among  them  might  truly  be  numbered 

Mongrel,  puppy,  whelp,  and  hound,  '      . 

And  curs  of  low  degree. 

She  gradually  regained  possession  of  her  appetite ;  and  when 
her  husband  arrived  in  the  autumn  from  Fort  George,  for  the 
purpose  of  crossing  the  mountains,  she  was  strong  enough  to 
accompany  him.  The  following  summer,  on  my  journey  across 
the  continent,  I  met  them  at  Lac  la  Pluie.  She  was  in  the  full 
enjoyment  of  health,  and  "  in  the  way  which  ladies  wish  to  be, 
who  love  their  lords." 

Before  I  quit  this  subject  I  may  be  permitted  to  mention 
another  remarkable  cure  by  means  nearly  similar,  which  occur- 
red at  Fort  (Jeorge.  One  of  the  proprietors,  who  had  been  sta- 
tioned there  for  two  years,  had,  like  his  countryman  Burns,  an 
unconquerable  "penchant  a  radorable  moitie du  genre  humainJ* 
And  among  the  flat-headed  beauties  of  the  coast,  where  chastity 
is  not  classed  as  the  first  of  virtues,  he  had  unfortunateiv  too 
many  opportunities  of  indulging  his  passion.     His  excesses 

Seatly  impaired  his  health,  and  obliged  nim  to  have  recourse  to 
e  most  powerful  medicine  of  the  materia  medica.  His  con- 
stitution was  naturally  weak,  and  the  last  attack  was  of  so  serious 
a  nature,  as  to  deprive  him  for  many  days  of  the  powers  of  arti- 
culation. The  contents  -^f  the  medicine  chest  were  tried  in  vain, 
and  all  hopes  of  his  recovery  had  been  abandoned,  when  a 

Clatsop  Indian  undertook  to  cure  him.    Mr.  M consented, 

and  a  poor  horse,  having  been  selected  as  a  sacrifice,  was  shot. 
The  Indian  then  made  an  opening  in  the  paunch  sufficiently  wide 
merely  to  admit  the  attenuated  body  of  the  patient,  who  was 
plunged  in  a  state  of  nudity  into  the  foaming  mass  of  entrails 
up  to  the  chin.  The  orifice  was  tucked  in  tightly  about  his  neck 
to  prevent  the  escape  of  steam,  and  he  was  kept  in  that  situation 
until  the  body  of  the  animal  had  lost  its  warmth.  He  was  then 
■   conveyed  to  bed,  and  enveloped  in  well-heated  blankets. 

The  following  day  he  felt  considerably  better ;  and  in  a  few 
days  afterward  another  horse  suffered.  He  underwent  a  second 
operation,  which  was  attended  by  similar  results.  From  thence 
he  slowly  regained  his  strength ;  and  by  adhering  to  a  strict  regi- 
men, was  finally  restored  to  his  ordinary  health.    Horses  are 

Co 


-II 


"*■ 


no 


SJBOOTHrO  BXOVBilONS— kawka. 


acorce  at  Fort  George,  were  it  not  for  which  circumitance,  Mr. 
M— —  assured  me  he  would  have  killed  two  or  three  more 
from  the  beneficial  effects  they  produced  on  his  constitution. 
His  late  illness,  however,  was  so  dangerous,  and  his  recovery  so 
unexjpected.  that  it  checked  for  the  future  his  amatory  pro- 
pensities. 


,j»'>f»»'"(',     <nfi 


CHAPTER  XX. 


Author  nearly  blinded  by  hawks — Foxes — Great  number  of  wolves — Their 
method  of  attackingr  horses — Lynxes — Bears — Anecdote  of  a  kidnappingf 
bruin — ^Ingenious  plan  of  getting  off  bear-skins — ^Account  of  the  hones  on 
the  Columbia — Great  feat  performed  by  one. 

In  the  great  plains  on  the  east  side  of  the  Columbia,  between 
Oakinagan  and  the  Spokai^  lands,  there  are,  during  the  autumnal 
months,  plenty  of  deer,  grouse,  wild  ducks,  and  geese. 

I  spent  a  great  portion  of  this  period  with  a  few  of  my  men 
and  some  Indians,  on  shooting  excursions,  and  had  excellent 
sport. 

We  stopped  one  very  sultry  day  about  noon  to  rest  our  horses, 
and  enjoy  the  cooling  shade  afforded  by  a  clump  of  sycamore- 
trees  with  a  refreshing  draught  from  an  adjoining  ^ring.  Several 
large  hawks  were  flying  about  the  spot,  two  of  which  we 
brought  down.  From  their  great  size,  immense  claws,  and  large 
hooked  beaks,  they  could  have  easily  carried  off  a  common- 
sized  duck  or  goose.  Close  to  our  resting-place  was  a  small  hill, 
round  the  top  of  which  I  observed  the  hawks  assemble,  and 
judging  that  a  nest  was  there  without  communicating  my  inten- 
tion to  any  of  the  party,  I  determined  to  find  it  out. 

I  therefore  cautiously  ascended  the  eminence,  on  the  summit 
of  which  I  perceived  a  ne'^t  larger  than  a  common-sized  market- 
basket,  formed  of  branches  of  trees,  one  laid  regularly  over  the 
other,  and  the  least  of  which  was  an  inch  in  circumference. 
Around  it  were  scattered  bones,  skeletons,  and  half-mangled 
bodies  of  pigeons,  sparrows,-  humming-birds,  &c.  Next  to  a 
rattlesnake  and  shark,  my  greatest  aversion  is  a  hawk ;  and  on 
this  occasion  it  was  not  diminished  by  observing  the  remains  of 
the  feathered  tribe,  which  had,  from  time  to  time,  fallen  a  prey 
to  their  voracious  appetite.  I  therefore  determined  to  destroy 
the  nest,  and  disperse  its  inhabitants ;  but  I  had  scarcely  com- 
menced the  work  of  demolition  with  my  dagger,  when  old 
and  young  flew  out  and  attacked  me  in  every  durection,  but  par- 


1. 
a 

F 
a 

c 

tl 
s 

F 

q 


8 


< 

c 
11 

t 

fl 

B 


. 


WOLVSS. 


211 


4-1/ 


ticttlarly  about  my  face  and  eyes ;  the  latter  of  which,  as  a  pun- 
ishment  for  my  temerity,  they  seemed  determined  to  separate 
from  their  sockets. 

In  the  mean  time  I  roared  out  lustily  tor  assistance,  and  laid 
about  me  with  the  dagger.  Three  men  promptly  ran  up  the 
hill,  and  called  out  to  me  to  shut  my  eyes,  and  throw  myself  on 
the  ground,  otherwise  1  should  be  shortly  blinded,  promising  in 
the  mean  time  to  assist  me,  I  obeyed  their  directions ;  and  just 
as  I  began  to  kiss  the  earth,  a  bullet  from  one  of  their  nfles 
brought  down  a  large  hawk,  apparently  the  father  of  the  gang. 
He  fell  close  to  my  neck,  and  in  his  expiring  agonies  made  a 
desperate  bite  at  my  left  ear,  which  I  escaped,  and  in  return 

Save  him  the  coup  de  grace,  by  thrusting  about  four  inches  of  mv 
a^er  down  his  throat.  The  death  of  their  chieftain  was  fol- 
lowed by  that  of  two  others,  which  completely  dispersed  them; 
and  we  retired  after  breaking  up  their  den. 

Red  foxes  and  wolves  are  also  in  great  numbers  about  the 
plains ;  but  their  skins  are  not  now  purchased  by  the  Company, 
as  the  price  given  for  them  would  not  defray  the  expense  of  thei** 
carriage. 

The  prairie  wolves  are  much  smaller  than  those  which  inhabit 
the  woods.  They  generally  travel  together  in  numbers,  and  a 
solitary  one  is  seldom  met  with.  Two  or  three  of  us  have  often 
pursued  from  fifty  to  one  hundred,  driving  them  before  us  as 
quickly  as  our  horses  could  charge. 

Their  skins  are  of  no  value,  and  we  do  not  therefore  waste 
much  powder  and  ball  in  shooting  them.  The  Indians,  who  Bare 
obliged  to  pay  dear  for  their  ammunition,  are  equally  careful  not 
to  throw  it  away  on  objects  that  bring  no  remunerating  value. 
The  natural  consequence  is,  that  the  wolves  are  allowed  to  mul- 
tiply ;  and  some  parts  of  the  country  are  completely  overrun  by 
them.  The  Indians  catch  numbers  of  them  in  traps,  which  they 
set  in  the  vicinity  of  those  places  where  their  tame  horses  are 
sent  to  graze.  The  traps  are  merely  excavations  covered  over 
with  slight  switches  and  hay,  and  baited  with  meat,  &c.,  into 
which  the  wolves  fall,  and  being  unable  to  extricate  themselvet^ 
they  perish  by  famine,  or  the  knife  of  the  Indian.  These 
destructive  animals  annually  destroy  numbers  of  horses ;  parti- 
cularly during  the  winter  season,  when  the  latter  get  entangled 
in  the  snow ;  in  which  situation  they  become  an  easy  prey  to 
their  light-footed  pursuers,  ten  or  mee::  of  which  will  often 
fasten  on  one  animal,  and  with  their  long  fangs  in  a  few  minutes 
separate  the  head  from  the  body.  If,  however,  the  horses  are 
not  prevented  from  using  their  legs,  they  sometimes  punish  the 
enemy  severely ;  as  an  instance  of  this,  I  saw  one  morning  the 
bodiei  <^  Iwo  of  our  horses  which  had  been  killed  the  ni^ 


fl9 


WOLVBI. 


before,  and  around  were  lying  eight  dead  and  maimed  wolvei ; 
some  with  their  brains  scattered  about,  and  others  with  their 
limbs  and  ribs  broken  by  the  hoofs  of  the  furious  animals  in  their 
vain  attempts  to  escape  from  their  sanguinary  assailants. 

While  I  was  at  Spokan  I  went  occasionally  to  the  horse  prairie, 
which  is  nearly  surrounded  by  partiallv-wooded  hills,  tor  the 

Eurpose  of  watching  the  manoeuvres  of  the  wolves  in  their  com- 
ined  attacks.  The  first  announcement  of  their  approach  was 
a  few  shrill  currish  barks  at  intervals,  like  the  outpost  firing  of 
skirmishing  parties.  These  were  answered  by  similar  barking 
from  an  opposite  direction,  until  the  sounds  gradually  approxi< 
mated,  and  at  length  ceased  on  the  junction  of  the  different  parties. 
We  prepared  our  guns,  and  concealed  ourselves  behind  a  thick 
cover.  In  the  mean  time,  the  horses,  sensible  of  the  approach- 
ing danger,  began  to  paw  the  ground,  snort,  toss  up  their  heads, 
look  wildly  about  them,  and  exhibit  all  the  symptoms  of  fear. 
One  or  two  stallions  took  the  lead,  and  appeared  to  wait  with  a 
degree  of  comparative  composure  for  the  appearance  of  the 
enemy. 

The  allies  at  length  entered  the  field  in  a  semicircular  form, 
with  their  flanks  extended  for  the  evident  purpose  of  surround- 
ing their  prey.  They  were  between  two  and  three  hundred 
strong.  The  hordes,  on  observing  their  movement,  knew  from 
experience  its  object,  and  dreading  to  encounter  so  numerous  a 
force,  instantly  turned  round,  and  galloped  off  in  a  contrary 
direction.  Their  flight  was  the  signal  for  ttie  wolves  to  advance ; 
and  immediately  uttering  a  simultaneous  yell,  they  charged  after 
the  fugitives,  still  preserving  their  crescent  form.  Two  or  three 
of  the  horses,  which  were  not  in  the  best  condition,  were  quickly 
overtaken  by  the  advanced  guard  of  the  enemy.  The  former, 
finding  themselves  unable  to  keep  up  with  the  band,  commenced 
kicking  at  their  pursuers,  several  of  which  received  some  severe 
blows ;  but  these  being  reinforced  by  others,  they  would  have 
shortly  despatched  the  horses  had  we  not,  just  in  time,  emerged 
from  our  place  of  concealment,  and  discharged  a  volley  at  the 
enemy's  centre,  by  which  a  few  were  brought  down.  The 
whole  battalion  instantly  wheeled  about,  and  fled  towards  the 
hills  in  the  utmost  disorder ;  while  the  horses,  on  hearing  the  fire, 
changed  their  course  and  galloped  up  to  us.  Our  appearance 
saved  several  of  them  from  the  fangs  of  their  foes ;  and  by  their 
neighing  they  seemed  to  express  their  joy  and  gratitude  at  our 
timely  interference. 

Although  the  wolves  of  North  America  are  the  most  daring  of 
all  the  beasts  of  prey  on  that  continent,  they  are  by  no  means 
so  courageous  or  ferocious  as  those  of  Europe,  particularly  in 
Spain  or  the  south  of  France,  in  which  countries  they  commit 


ii 


BEARS — KIDNAPPIMQ. 


213 


dreadful  ravages  both  on  man  and  beast  :*  whereas  an  American 
wolf,  except  forced  by  desperation,  will  seldom  or  never  attack  a 
human  beme ;  a  remarkable  instance  of  which  is  mentioned  in 
the  detail  of  my  wanderings  in  the  eighth  chapter.  The  lynxes 
are  by  no  means  so  numerous  as  the  wolves,  but  they  are  equally 
destructive,  and  individually  more  daring.  They  generally  travel 
alone,  o*-  in  couples,  and  seldom  fly  as  tne  wolves  do  on  the  first 
approach  of  man.  The  largest  American  lynx  does  not  exce^U 
in  size  an  English  mastiff. 

Bears  are  scarce  about  the  plains,  but  they  are  found  in  con< 
siderable  numbers  in  the  vicinity  of  the  woods  and  lakes.  Their 
flesh  is  excellent,  particularly  in  the  summer  and  autumnal 
months,  when  roots  and  wild  fruit  are  had  in  abundance.  They 
are  most  dangerous  animals  to  encounter,  especially  if  they  are 
slightly  wounded,  or  that  any  of  their  cubs  are  in  danger,  in 
which  case  they  will  rush  on  a  man,  though  he  were  armed  at 
all  points ;  and  wo  to  him  if  Bruin  should  once  enfold  him  in 
his  dreadful  grasp. 

I  have  seen  several  of  our  hunters,  as  well  as  many  Indians, 
who  had  been  dreadfully  lacerated  in  their  encounters  with 
bears :  some  have  been  deprived  of  their  ears,  others  had  their 
noses  nearly  torn  ofl',  and  a  few  have  been  completely  blinded. 

From  the  scarcity  of  food  in  the  spring  months  they  are  then 
more  savage  than  at  any  other  season  ;  and  during  that  period 
it  is  a  highly  dangerous  experiment  to  approach  them. 

The  following  ai'-^cdote  will  prove  this ;  and,  were  not  the  fact 
confirmed  by  the  v- ji  "urrent  testimony  often  more,  I  would 
not  have  given  it  a  place  among  my  memorabilia. 

In  the  spring  of  this  year  (1816)  Mr.  M'Millan  had  despatched 
ten  Canadians  in  a  canoe  down  the  Fiat-head  River  on  a  trading 
excursion.  The  third  evening  after  quitting  the  fort,  while  they 
were  quietly  sitting  round  a  blazing  fire  eating  a  hearty  dinner 
of  deer,  a  large  half-famished  bear  cautiously  approached  the 
group  from  behind  an  adjacent  tree ;  and  before  they  were 
aware  of  his  presence,  he  sprang  across  the  fire,  seized  one  of 
the  men  ^who  had  a  well-furnish' :d  bone  in  his  hand)  round  his 
waist,  with  the  two  fore  paws,  anl  ran  about  fifty  yards  with  him 


*  During  the  late  FeninBular  war,  the  Duke  of  Wellington  had  occasion  to 
send  despatcbeB  by  a  mounted  dragoon,  to  a  general  of  division  not  quite  a 
day's  march  distant  from  head-quarters.  The  answer  not  having  arrived  at 
the  period  it  was  expected,  His  Grace  despatched  three  others  to  ascertain  the 
cause.  They  found  the  mangled  remains  of  their  unfortunate  comrade  lying 
beside  those  of  his  horse,  and  the  greiter  portion  of  the  flesh  eaten  oif  tLeir 
^odies.  His  sword  was  firmly  grasped  in  his  mutilated  hand,  and  the  dead 
caroasses  of  seven  or  eight  wolves  which  lay  about  him  exhibited  strong  mark* 
of  the  sabre,  and  of  the  desperation  with  which  he  fought  before  he  was  over- 
powered by  numbere. 


T 


914 


KIDNAPPING TRATmO   MAN<EWBE. 


i 

1 


J\ 


on  his  hind  legs  before  he  stopped.  His  comrades  were  so 
thunderstruck  at  the  unexpected  appearance  of  such  a  visiter, 
and  his  sudden  retreat  v/ith pauvre  Louisson,  that  they  for  some 
time  lost  all  presence  of  muid  i  and,  in  a  state  of  fear  and  con- 
fusion, were  running  to  and  fro,  each  expecting  in  his  turn  to  be 
kidnapped  in  a  similar  manner;  when  at  length  Baptiste  Le 
Blanc,  a  half-breed  hunter,  seized  his  gun,  and  was  in  the  act  of 
firing  at  the  bear,  but  was  stopped  by  some  of  the  others,  who 
toldliim  he  would  inevitably  kill  their  friend  in  the  position 
in  which  he  was  then  placed.  During  this  parley  Bruin  relaxed 
his  grip  of  the  captive,  whom  he  kept  securely  under  him,  and 
very  leisurely  began  picking  the  bone  which  the  latter  had 
dropped.  Once  or  twice  Louisson  attempted  to  escape,  which 
only  caused  the  bear  to  watch  him  more  closely ;  but  on  his 
making  another  attempt,  he  a^ain  seized  Louisson  round  the 
waist,  and  commenced  giving  him  one  of  those  infernal  embraces 
which  generally  end  in  death.  The  poor  fellow  was  now  in 
ereat  agony,  and  vented  the  most  frightful  screams ;  and  observ- 
mg  Baptiste  with  his  ^un  ready,  anxiously  watching  a  safe  oppor- 
tunity to  fire,  he  cried  out,  Tire  !  tire !  mon  cherfrere^  si  tu 
nCaimes.  Tire,  pour  V armour  du  bon  Dieu  I  Ala  t^e !  d  la  tSte  I 
This  was  enough  for  Le  Blanc,  who  instantly  let  fly,  and  hit  the 
bear  over  the  right  temple.  He  fell,  and  at  the  same  moment 
dropped  Louisson ;  but  he  gave  him  an  ugly  scratch  with  his 
claws  across  the  face,  which  for  some  time  afterward  spoiled 
his  beauty.  After  the  shot  Le  Blanc  darted  to  his  comrade's 
assistance,  and  with  his  couteau  de  chasse  quickly  finished  the 
sutTerings  of  the  man-stealer,  and  rescued  his  friend  from  im- 
pending death ;  for,  with  the  exception  of  the  above-mentioned 
scratch,  he  escaped  uninjured.  They  commenced  the  work  of 
dissection  with  right  good- will ;  but  on  skinning  the  bear,  they 
found  scarcely  any  meat  on  his  bones ;  in  fact,  the  animal  had 
been  famishing,  and  in  a  fit  of  hungry  desperation  made  one  of 
the  boldest  attempts  at  kidnapping  ever  heard  of  in  the  legends 
of  ursine  courage. 

The  skins  of  these  animals  are  not  at  present  held  in  the  same 
estimation  that  they  were  formerly,  particularly  the  brown  or 

frizzly  kind,  few  of  which  are  now  purchased.     Good  rich 
lack  ones  and  cubs  still  bring  a  fair  pnce  at  the  trading  posts 
nearest  to  Canuda  and  Hudson's  Bay. 

About  twenty-five  years  ago  the  Company  had  a  great  number 
of  bear-skins  lying  in  their  stores,  for  which  there  was  no  demand. 
One  of  the  directors,  a  gentleman  well  known  for  the  fertility 
of  his  expedients  as  an  Indian  trader,  hit  upon  a  plan  for  getting 
off  the  stock,  which  succeeded  beyond  his  most  sanguine  expec- 
tations.   He  selected  a  few  of  the  finest  and  largest  skins  in  the 


i,f 


HOMBB. 


'^M 


915 


■tore,  ivhich  he  had  made  into  a  hammercloth  splendidly  orna- 
mented in  silver  with  the  royal  arms.  A  deputation  of  the 
directors  then  waited  upon  a  late  Royai  Duke  with  the  hammer- 
cloth,  and  respectfully  recjuested  that  he  would  be  graciously 
6 leased  to  accept  it  as  a  slight  testimony  of  their  respect.  Hu 
loyal  Highness  returned  a  polite  answer,  and  condescendingly 
consented  to  receive  the  present.  A  few  days  afler  the  kmg 
held  a  levee,  and  his  illustrious  son  proceeded  to  court  in  his  state- 
coach  with  its  splendid  hammercloth.  It  attracted  universal 
attention ;  and  to  every  inquiry  as  to  where  the  skins  were 
obtained,  the  answer  was,  "  from  the  North- West  Company." 
In  three  weeks  afterward  there  wt  not  a  black,  or  even  n 
brown  bearskin  in  the  Company's  warehouse ;  and  the  unfortu- 
nate peer,  who  could  not  sport  a  hammercloth  of  bear,  was  voted 
a  bore  by  his  more  lucky  brethren. 

The  skin  of  the  red  fox  is  not  now  accounted  valuable ;  and 
scarcely  any  are  purchased.  The  Indians  therefore  seldom 
trouble  themselves  in  hunting  these  animals,  and  in  some  dis- 
tricts they  are  consequently  greatly  on  the  increase.  There 
are  no  black  foxes  on  the  Columbia ;  but  next  to  them  in  beauty 
and  value  are  the  silver  gray,  which  bring  a  high  price,  and  sev- 
eral of  which  are  purchased  at  Oakinagan  and  Spokan.  The 
mandarins  of  China  hold  them  in  great  estimation,  and  those 
which  we  sent  to  Canton  were  eagerly  purchased  for  their  use. 

The  number  of  horses  among  the  variop  bribes  on  the  Co- 
lumbia and  its  tributary  streams  differs  with  thti  circumstances  of 
the  country.  Among  the  Flat-heads,  Cootonais,  Spokans,  &c., 
whose  lands  are  rather  thickly  wooded,  there  are  not  more  than 
sufficient  for  their  actual  use,  and  every  colt,  on  arriving  at 
the  proper  age,  is  broken  in  for  the  saddle.  But  in  the 
countries  inhsubited  by  the  Wallah  Wallahs,  Nez  Perces,  and 
Shoshones,  which  chiefly  consist  of  open  plains,  well  watered 
and  thinly  wooded,  they  are  far  more  numerous,  and  thou- 
sands are  allowed  to  go  wild.  Their  general  hei^t  is  about 
fifteen  hands,  which  they  seldom  exceed ;  and  ponies  are  very 
scarce.  Those  reared  in  the  plains  are  excellent  hunters,  and 
the  swiftest  racers  ;  but  are  not  capable  of  enduring  the  some 
hardships  as  those  bred  in  the  vicinity  of  the  high  and  woody 
districts.  We  have  seen  from  seven  hundred  to  a  thousand 
wild  horses  in  a  band ;  and  some  of  the  party  who  crossed  the 
continent  by  the  Missouri  route,  told  me  that  in  parts  of  the 
country  belonging  to  the  Snake  Indians,  bands  varying  from 
three  to  four  thousand  were  frequently  seen ;  and  further  to  the 
southward  they  are  far  more  numerous.*     The  Indian  horses 

*  The  Spaniards  at  St.  Francisco  informed  our  traders  that  in  the  year  181S 
they  were  obliged  to  kill  upwards  of  30,000  horses  in  California,  in  order  to 


/ 


816 


nOH»8 — IXTXAORDIMABT  fVAT. 


are  never  shod ;  and,  as  we  were  equally  with  them  depriyed 
of  smith,  farrier,  and  iron,  we  were  unable  to  introduce  that 
valuable  practice  into  the  country.  Owing  to  th''  umstance, 
their  hoofs,  particularly  of  such  as  are  in  cr-  work,  are 

nearly  worn  away  before  they  are  ten  or  ele\  j  oars  old,  after 
whicn  they  are  unfit  for  any  labour  except  carrying  children. 
They  are  easily  managed,  and  are  seldom  vicious.  An  Indian 
horse  is  never  taught  to  trot.  The  natives  dislike  this  pace,  and 
prefer  to  it  the  canter  or  light  gallop.  They  are  hard  taskmas- 
ters ;  and  the  hair-rope  bricfles,  with  the  padded  deer-skin  saddles 
which  they  use,  lacerate  the  mouths  and  backs  of  the  unfortu- 
nate animals  in  such  a  manner  as  to  render  them  at  times  objects 
of  commiseration  to  men  of  harder  hearts  than  the  late  worthy 
member  for  Galway*  In  summer  they  have  no  shelter  from 
the  heat,  in  winter  no  retreat  from  the  cold ;  and  theii  only 
provender  throujghout  the  year  is  the  wild  loose  grass  of  the 
prairies,  which  m  the  latter  season  is  generally  covered  with 
■now ;  and  in  the  former  is  brown  and  arid,  from  the  intense 
heat  of  the  sun. 

I  have  already  given  some  details  of  the  hardships  to  which 
the  horses  in  this  country  are  subject,  and  shall  merely  add  one 
anecdote  more.  In  the  spring  of  1813,  before  the  dissolution  of 
the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  while  I  was  stationed  at  Spokan 
House  with  Mr.  Clarke,  he  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Farnham, 
who  had  the  charge  of  the  party  sent  to  the  Flat-heads,  stating 
that  he  had  arrived  at  the  Flat-head  portage,  a  distance  of  sev- 
enty-two miles  from  Spokan  House,  where  he  should  be  obliged 
to  remain  a  few  days  to  recruit  his  horses ;  that  his  trading 
goods  were  exhausted,  and  he  was  entirely  out  of  tobacco ;  that 
a  large  party  of  Flat-heads  were  following  them  with  a  quantity 
of  valuable  skins ;  that  his  rival,  Mr.  M' Donald,  was  also  unsup- 
plied  with  tobacco ;  that  whichever  of  them  got  the  first  supply 
of  that  article  would,  by  treating  the  Indians  to  a  grand  smokmg 
match,  succeed  in  getting  the  produce  of  their  hunt ;  and  that 
in  order  to  attain  that  object,  it  was  absolutely  necessary  the 
tobacco  req  Jred  should  be  with  him  that  night,  otherwise  the 
natives  would  all  go  over  in  a  body  to  Mr.  M'Donald,  with 
whom  they  had  been  longer  acquainted  than  with  him. 

It  was  eleven  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  when  this  letter  reached 
us,  and  Mr.  Clarke  thought  it  impossible  for  any  horse  to  go  a 
distance  of  seventy -two  miles  during  the  remainder  of  that  day ; 
at  all  events,  he  knew  that  none  of  the  Company's  horses  were 
fit  for  such  a  task ;  and  was  about  giving  up  the  idea  as  hope- 
less, when  I  offered  to  undertake  it  with  a  celebrated  horse  of 

preserve  sufficient  grus  for  the  buffalo,  the  fat  of  which  fbrtna  an  article  of 
ezportatioa.  ,^> 


COMPLLTK   IVOCBSB-^LB   BLBV. 


217 


hit  own,  called  "  Le  Bleu."  The  case  was  important :  a  blow 
was  necessary  to  bo  struck ;  and  aitliough  ho  prized  tlio  horse 
above  all  his  chattels  in  the  Indian  country,  he  nt  once  deter- 
mined to  sacrifice  his  private  feelings  to  the  interests  of  the  Com- 
pany. Two  men  were  selected  to  accompany  me,  and  orders 
were  given  to  catch  "  Le  Bleu."  He  was  a  noble  animal,  be- 
tween fifteen  and  sixteen  hands  high,  seven  years  of  age,  ad- 
mirably built,  and  derived  his  name  from  his  colour,  which  was 
a  dappled  white  and  sky-blue.  He  was  olso  a  prime  racer, 
and  had  beaten  all  competitors  on  the  turf. 

Owing  to  the  delay  occasioned  by  catching  the  horses  we 
did  not  start  till  twelve  o'clock.  1  remained  in  company  with 
the  men  for  the  first  two  hours  at  a  slight  canter,  after  which  I 
took  the  lead  in  a  hard  gallop,  and  quickly  lost  sight  of  them.  I 
followed  an  excellent  well-beaten  pathway  for  upwards  of  sixty 
miles  through  the  Pointed-heart  Plains  ;  but  late  in  the  evening 
it  brought  me  to  a  thick  wood,  through  wliicli  it  runs  for  a  dis- 
tance of  ten  miles,  when  it  terminates  at  the  portage. 

Shortly  after  entering  the  wood,  night  overtooK  me ;  and  I 
several  times  lost  the  pathway,  which,  owing  to  the  darkness, 
and  a  quantity  of  fallen  trees  and  brushwood,  became  extremely 
intricate.  The  sagacity  of  my  horse,  however,  extricated  me 
from  these  igaremens,  and  a  little  after  eight  o'clock  I  emerged 
from  the  forest,  and  was  delighted  at  the  cheering  appearan'  o 
of  a  range  of  fires  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  Ble  . 
which  had  been  for  some  time  drooping,  on  seeing  the  light, 
knew  his  task  was  at  an  end,  and  galloped  up  in  nne  style  to 
Famham's  tent,  when  he  was  immediately  let  loose  to  regale 
himself  in  the  prairie. 

I  had  brought  a  few  fathoms  of  thick  twist  tobacco  with 
me  ;  on  learning  which  the  Indians  crowded  about  us,  and  in  a 
few  seconds  eacn  man's  head  was  enveloped  in  clouds  of  smoke 
They  promised  that  we  should  have  all  their  skins ;  but  in  order 
to  maKe  assurance  doubly  sure,  we  requested  them  to  bring 
their  respective  packages  to  the  tent,  and  deposite  them  therein 
until  morning.  This  was  at  once  complied  with,  afler  which 
the  smoking  recommenced.  About  two  hours  after,  two  of  our 
rivals  arrived  with  a  quantity  of  tobacco.  They  had  started 
from  Spokan  shortly  after  me,  but  were  never  able  to  overtake 
the  pliant  Bleu.  They  were  much  better  acquainted  with  the 
intricacies  of  the  pathway  through  the  wood  than  I  was ;  and 
if  their  horses  had  been  equal  to  mine,  it  is  very  probable  the 
result  would  have  been  different.  They  were  much  chagrined 
at  our  success ;  and  on  taxing  the  Indians  with  having  deserted 
them  for  strangers,  they  replied,  that  being  the  first  to  satisf)^  their 
hungry  cravings  for  tobacco,  they  could  do  no  less  than  give  us 

Dd 


318 


THE    AUTHOR   WUHM   TO   LIAVC  THB    COI7NTKT. 


the  preference ;  but  added  that  they  would  punctually  pay  them 
any  debts  which  thev  had  contracted  with  Mr.  M* Donald,  which 
promise  they  fuithfully  kept. 

About  midnight  the  two  men,  whom  I  hnd  left  behind  me, 
reached  the  encampment.  They  uIho  were  for  some  time  loit 
in  the  wood,  and  like  myself  were  obliged  to  depend  on  the 
lacucity  of  their  horses  to  set  them  right. 

We  returned  to  Spokan  House  by  easy  stages ;  but  I  did  not 
ride  the  Bleu.  In  less  than  a  wcf;k  after  he  was  perfectly  recov- 
ered from  the  fatigue  of  his  journey,  and  in  the  summer  of  the 
same  year  beat  the  fleetest  horses  of  both  Compauiei  on  the 
race^course.  , 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


Letter  from  ths  proprietor*— Author  winters  at  Oaklnagan— Letter  from  Mr. 
Mackenzie — A  number  of  hones  itoien — Succeitful  plan  to  recover  them — 
Deauription  of  aoil,  climate,  productions,  &c.  of  the  lower  part  of  the  Co- 
lumbia. 

The  summer  of  1816  did  not  tend  to  diminish  my  growing 
aversion  to  the  *ndian  country.  Horse-racing,  deer-hunting, 
and  grouse-shootmg  were  pleasant  pastimes  enough,  but  the 
want  of  companionable  society  rendered  every  amusement 
"  stale,  flat,  and  unprofitable."  Zimmerman  in  vain  displayed 
the  charms  of  solitude ;  he  never  vegetated  among  savages. 
Bad  French  and  worse  Indian  began  to  usurp  the  place  oT  Eng- 
lish, and  I  found  my  conversation  gradually  becoming  a  bar- 
barous compound  of  various  dialects.  The  cherished  object, 
too,  of  a  young  man's  ambition  was  still  at  an  immeasurable 
distance,  and  I  felt  that  an  old  age  of  aflluence  could  only  be 

{mrchased  by  the  sacrifice  in  youtn  of  all  the  comforts  of  social 
ife.  In  the  midst  of  these  and  similar  reflections,  the  monotony 
of  my  life  was,  for  a  moment,  relieved  by  the  arrival  of  Mr. 
Donald  Mackenzie,  with  two  canoes  and  twenty  men  from  Fort 
William.  This  gentleman  had  been  one  of  tlie  proprietors  of 
the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  from  which,  after  its  dissolution,  he 
changed  to  the  North-west.  He  was  now  on  his  way  to  Fort 
George  with  despatches,  and  took  charge  of  the  autumn  brigade 
to  that  place.  By  Mr.  Mackenzie  1  received  letters  from  home, 
which  at  once  determined  me  to  apply  for  leave  to  quit  the 
country ;  and  having  written  to  the  proprietors  to  that  effect^ 
I  received  the  following  answer,  viz. — 


H 


KHIONATION    ACOBPTBO WINTER   ARRANOBMBNT. 


210 


"  Dear  Sir, 


Fort  George,  September  30th,  1816. 


*'  In  acceding  to  yoiir  moBt  earnest  request  of  being  Hisrhnrgcl 
from  our  service  ensuing  spring,  wo  give  wuy  to  the  voice  of 
nature  and  of  humanity,  wnich  cannot,  will  not  for  u  moment 
allow  us  to  hesitate  when  the  object  is  to  rennimatc  and  cheer 
up  the  drooping  spirits  of  vour  venerublu  und  aged  parents.  At 
the  same  time  rest  assured  that  on  no  other  consideration  could 
we  ever  be  induced  to  part  with  your  most  useful  services,  more 
particularly  at  a  period  when  we  are  on  the  eve  of  being  put  to 
such  shifls  to  fill  up  the  different  requisitions. 

"  As  to  your  character,  as  fur  an  prudence,  integrity,  and  per- 
severance, joined  to  an  unceasing  desire  to  please  and  render 
yourself  useful,  can  command  regord,  you  certainly  are  deserv- 
ingly  entitled  to  ours,  and  no  encomium  on  our  part  could  add 
to  our  high  opinion  of^  your  merit. 

"  In  expectation  of  seeing  you  next  spring  at  this  place,  prior 
to  your  taking  your  final  departure,  we  remain  with  sincere 
regard, 

"Dear  Sir, 

"  Your  most  obedient  servonts, 
"James  Keith, 
"Angus  Betiiune, 
'  "  Donald  Mackrnzie, 

"  For  North-west  Company.'* 

Mr.  Mackenzie  was  himself  the  bearer  of  this  letter.  He 
atrongly  urged  me  to  change  my  resolution,  and  declared  if  I 
consented  to  remain  in  the  country  my  promotion  should  take 

E'lace  in  a  short  time  after  the  expiration  of  my  engagement ; 
ut  as  my  mind  was  made  up  to  return  home,  I  refused  acceding 
to  his  friendly  wishes. 

It  was  arranged  I  should  pass  the  winter  in  my  present  post 
(Oakinagan),  in  which,  on  account  of  my  popularity  with  the 
natives,  1  had  succeeded  in  obtaining  more  furs  than  most  of 
my  predecessors.  Mr.  Mackenzie  went  to  Spokan  with  Messrs. 
M'Donald  and  Montour  for  the  outposts,  Mr.  Ross  proceeded  to 
Kamloops,  and  Mr.  M'Millan  to  his  old  post  at  the  Flat-heads. 

Mr.  Mackenzie  had  made  arrangements  with  the  chiefs  of  the 
various  tribes  for  the  transmission  of  an  express  from  Oakinagan 
to  Fort  Gfcorge,  promising  to  each  a  handsome  present,  provided 
it  reached  its  destination,  and  that  an  answer  was  brought  back. 
In  pursuance  of  this  plan,  he  forwarded  despatches  to  the  sea, 
to  which  he  received  an  answer,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  follow- 
ing letter : 


•  ?1 


^, 


230 


CORRESPONDENCE — SKETCH    OV    0HARACTER. 


Spokan  House,  February  12th,  1817. 
"  Dear  Cox, 

"  It  was  but  yesterday,  on  my  return  from  the  Nez  Peixes, 
that  I  had  the  pleasure  of  perusing  your  much  esteemed  letter 
of  the  29th  of  December.  My  despatches  reached  Fort  George 
in  thirty-six  days,  and  were  answered  on  the  1 2th  of  December; 
so  that  in  sixteen  days  from  the  fort,  they  reached  your  place. 
The  safety  of  this  conveyance  will,  1  hope,  do  away  with  the  ne- 
cessity of  the  usual  fall  voyage  to  the  sea.  On  arriving  here  I 
found  I  had  ninety  souls  to  provide  with  the  necessaries  of  life, 
and  therefore  determined  on  an  excursion  to  Lewis  River.  Your 
friend,  Mr.  M'Donald,  accompanied  me,  and,  besides  the  Cana- 
dians, I  took  ten  Sandwich  islanders,  whom  I  armed  and  accou- 
tred quite  en  militaire.  The  Nez  Perces  did  not  half  relish  the 
swarthy  aspect  of  these  invincibles,  and  fancied  I  intended  to 
resent  former  grudges.    However  we  did  not  see  them  all. 

"  My  trip  has  simply  answered  the  purpose  of  obtaining  pro- 
risions  for  the  passing  day,  which,  at  this  post,  I  assure  you  has 
been  no  contemptible  attainment.  The  horses  I  purchased  are 
already  nearly  consumed ;  you  will  therefore,  I  trust,  excuse  my 
sending  two  of  my  people  in  your  direction.  I  have  ordered 
them  to  encamp  in  your  environs ;  and  the  Nipising,  who  is 
chasseur,  is  to  supply  your  board  with  game.  It  will  prove  a 
seasonable  variety  to  your  dried  salmon. 

"  1  regret  the  frost  prevents  me  sending  you  potatoes :  they 
would  be  of  no  service.  I  have  received  accounts  from  Mr. 
M'Millan,  He  informs  me  he  was  nearly  surrounded  by  the 
Piegans  (the  Black-feet)  ;  but  they  were  prevented  by  hunger 
from  advancing  near  enough  to  the  fort.  He  has  had  a  lucky 
escape.  Should  you  be  induced  to  alter  your  mind  about  quit- 
ting the  Company,  I  shall  feel  very  happy  by  your  remaining 
with  us.  You  may  rely  on  all  I  have  told  you.  You  need  feel 
no  scruples  on  that  head.  I  passed  an  agreeable  time  with  our 
friend  Finan.  He  is  certainly  a  most  worthy  mortal,  and  desires 
to  be  remembered  to  you. 

"Yours,  &c.  I. 

"  Donald  Mackenzie."* 

Mr.  Mackenzie,  as  already  mentioned,  had  crossed  the  conti- 
nent with  Mr.  Hunt.  In  the  course  of  that  journey  he  passed 
through  the  lands  of  the  Snake  Indians,  in  which  he  observed 
great  numbers  of  beavers ;  and  his  chief  motive  in  coming  to 
the  Columbia  was  to  form  a  trading  establishment  in  that  dan- 
gerous district,  no  attempt  at  which  had  been  made  since  the 

*  This  gotitleman  is  now  governor  of  the  colony  established  at  Red  River. 


iii 


TEDIOUS  VmrtEA  RESIDENCE — ROBBERY. 


321 


,  1817. 

Perces, 
d  letter 
George 
member ; 
ir  place, 
t  the  ne- 
here  I 
s  of  life, 
r.  Your 
6  Cana- 
i  accou- 
ilish  the 
nded  to 
all. 

ing  pro- 
you  has 
ased  are 
cuse  my 
ordered 
who  is 
prove  a 

!s:  they 
rom  Mr. 
I  by  the 
^  hunger 
a  lucky 
^ut  quit- 
maining 
leed  feel 
(vith  our 
1  desires 


M 


"# 


HE. 

le  conti- 
3  passed 
bserved 
>ming  to 
bat  dan- 
ince  the 

d  River. 


massacre  of  Mr.  Read  and  his  party.  Mr.  Mackenzie  was  pecu-  • 
liarly  qualified  for  this  hazardous  undertaking.  He  was  an  expe- 
rienced trader,  and  possessed  an  accurate  knowledge  of  the 
localities  of  the  country.  He  could,  with  his  rifle,  drive  a  dozen 
balls  consecutively  at  one  hundred  paces  through  a  Spanish 
dollar,  which  accomplishment  alone  was  enough  to  secure  him 
the  respect  of  the  Indians.  To  the  most  cautious  prudence  he 
united  the  most  dauntless  intrepidity  ;  in  fact,  no  hardships  could 
fatigue,  no  dangers  intimidate  him.  As  we  had  many  reasons  to 
suspect  that  the  Pierced-noses,  through  whose  lands  a  party 
proceeding  to  the  country  of  the  Snakes  must  pass,  were  actu- 
ated by  feelings  of  hostility,  Mr.  Mackenzie  undertook  the  win- 
ter's trip  to  Lewis  llivcr,  not  so  much  for  the  purpose  of  pur- 
chasing horses  (for  that  Mr.  M'Donald  could  have  done),  as  to 
form  a  judgment  from  personal  observation  of  their  disposition. 
Although  his  reception  was  not  the  most  friendly,  he  was  satisfied 
there  was  little  danger  to  be  apprehended,  and  therefore  deter- 
mined to  make  the  attempt  early  in  the  summer. 

I  passed  five  weary  winter  months  at  Oakinagan  without  a 
friend  to  converse  with ;  and  the  severity  of  the  season  debarred 
me  from  the  exercise  of  field  sports,  which,  during  the  summer, 
partially  relieved  the  unsocial  tedium  of  my  existence.  Tea  and 
tobacco  were  my  only  luxuries ;  and  my  pipe  was  my  pot-com- 
panion. Dried  salmon  was  our  principal  article  of  food,  with  u 
bit  of  lean  deer,  with  which  the  natives  occasionally  supplied 
us,  like 

'  Angels'  visits,  few  and  far  between. 

Our  horses  were  too  few  and  too  poor  for  the  kettle ;  and 
scarcely  a  week  elapsed  that  one  did  not  fall  a  victim  to  the  vil- 
lanous  wolves  which  infested  the  siiow-covered  plains. 

One  morning  in  the  beginning  of  February,  the  men  whom  I 
had  sent  out  to  collect  the  horses  found  ten  missing,  and  the  fresh 
traces  of  human  feet  in  the  snow  convinced  them  they  must 
have  been  stolen.  I  immediately  sent  for  the  Oakinagan  chief, 
and  told  him  I  should  require  his  assistance  in  recovering  the 
horses.  This  he  readily  granted,  and  forthwith  ordered  five  of 
his  young  men  to  catch  their  horses  and  join  him  at  the  fort.  I 
selected  three  Canadians  and  two  Sandwich  islanders  to  accom- 
pany me,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  all  our  warlike  arrangements 
were  completed.  We  proceeded  in  the  first  instance  to  the 
prairie  ;  and  the  chief  having  made  his  observations,  declared  ut 
once  they  must  have  been  stolen  by  the  Sinapoils.  It  had  snowed 
hard  the  preceding  night ;  which  circumstance,  without  the 
assistance  of  the  Indians,  would  have  puzzled  our  men  to  find 
out  the  traces  of  the  robbers.    The  chief  however  quickly  dis- 


■ri 


I  ic 


222 


SEARCTT DISCOVERY LENITY. 


covered  their  route,  and  we  followed  his  guidance  until  late  in 
the  evening,  when  we  were  obliged  to  stop  to  rest  the  horses* 
and  take  a  little  refreshment.  He  told  me  we  were  within  a  few 
hours'  march  of  the  robbers,  and  advised  us  to  continue  on 
during  the  night,  by  M^hich  means  we  were  certain  of  catching 
them  unprepared,  when  ws  could  kill  them  all,  and  recover  our 
horses.  Ildving  no  relish  for  raising  scalps,  I  declined  his  san- 
guinary proposal ;  at  which  he  did  not  appear  too  well  pleased. 
We  resumed  our  journey  before  day-break  the  following  morn- 
ing ;  and  after  riding  about  two  hours,  the  chief  desired  us  to 
dismount,  and  lead  our  horses.  We  complied.  In  less  than 
half  an  hour  our  path  opened  into  a  small  glen,  in  the  bottom  of 
which  were  half  a  dozen  mat-covered  lodges,  and  around  them 
we  perceived  about  fifteen  horses  scraping  the  snow.  The  stolen 
ones  were  among  them.  We  instantly  mounted ;  and  before 
the  robbers  were  aware  of  our  approach  we  had  surrounded 
their  miserable  encampment.  On  hearing  the  war-whoop  of 
our  Oakinagan  allies,  they  rushed  out,  partly  armed ;  but  seeing 
our  numbers,  they  held  down  their  bows,  and  quietly  submitted! 
I  never  saw  such  a  group  of  meagre  wretches.  They  were 
quite  naked ;  and 

Sharp  misery  had  worn  them  to  the  bones. 

Their  wives  and  children  crouched  under  mats,  and  kept  up  a 
howling  cry,  while  the  Oakinagan  chief  thus  addressed  them : 

"  Sinapoils  !  you  are  dogs  ;  you  are  robbers.  You  stole  the 
horses  from  our  good  friends  the  white  men  ;  and  as  a  punish- 
ment we  shall  now  take  aiway  your  horses."  One  of  them 
replied :  "  We  are  dogs ;  we  are  robbers ;  we  did  steal  the 
good  white  men's  horses ;  but  we  are  poor,  and  cold,  and  hungry. 
The  wolves  destroyed  all  our  own  horsed  but  five ;  and  as  our 
dried  salmon  was  all  gone,  and  our  wives  and  children  starving, 
sooner  than  see  them  die,  we  took  the  houses  from  the  white 
men,  because  we  knew  they  were  good  people,  and  could  easily 
purchase  others.  We  are  sorry  for  what  we  have  done  ;  but  if 
you  take  our  five  remaining  horses,  we  shall  all  die  of  hunger." 

This  appeal  made  no  impression  on  the  flinty-hearted  chie^ 
who  counselled  us  to  take  the  five  horses  as  a  punishment  to  the 
robbers.  I  refused  however  to  adopt  his  advice  ;  for,  indepen- 
dently of  the  inhumanity  of  such  a  course,  I  did  not  deem  it 
prudent  to  resort  to  measures  of  severity  against  a  tribe  who 
might  have  many  opportunities  of  retaliating  on  our  hunters  in 
the  plains.  I  therefore  told  them  that  in  consequence  of  their 
starving  condition,  we  would  abstain  from  punishing  them  on 
that  occasion,  but  any  future  trespass  should  not  escape  with 


««S^v 


PERIODICAL  RAINS — NATURAL    PRODUCTIONS. 


223 


impunity.  As  they  all  appeared  to  want  something  to  eat,  I 
ordered  one  of  their  horses  to  be  shot,  and  leaving  the  body  for 
their  own  use,  we  returned  to  the  fort,  which  we  reached  late 
that  evening.  Our  forbearance  produced  no  expression  of  gra- 
titude from  the  Sinapoils ;  and  the  chief  reproached  us  for 
having  acted  in  such  a  mild  manner.  I  made  him  and  his  young 
men  a  suitable  present,  and  so  ended  this  pursuit  of  the  '  black  • 
mail'  drovers. 

As  this  was  the  last  winter  I  spent  in  the  Indian  country,  I 
shall,  before  commencing  (he  journal  of  my  voyage  across  the 
continent,  give  some  brief  remarks  on  the  soil  aiid  productions 
of  the  various  districts  on  the  Columbia,  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  the  different  tribes,  their  distinctive  peculiarities,  &c. 

The  climate  about  the  entrance  of  the  river,  and  thence  to  the 
first  rapids,  is  mild.  The  mercury  seldom  fails  below  the  freez- 
ing point ;  and  never  rises  above  80.  Westerly  winds  prevail 
during  the  spring  and  summer  months,  and  are  succeeded  by 
north-westers,  which  blow  pretty  freshly  during  the  autumn. 
October  ushers  in  the  south  wind  and  rain,  both  of  which  con- 
tinue without  intermission  until  January,  when  the  wind  begins 
to  veer  to  the  westward  ;  but  the  rain  seldom  ceases  until  the 
termination  of  April.  The  gentlemen  who  have  wintered  at 
Fort  George  tell  me  the  torrents  which  pour  down  during  this 
period  are  dreadful.  Fcr  weeks  together  the  sun  is  invisible ; 
and  the  only  protection  for  those  whose  duty  compels  them  to 
be  in  the  open  air,  is  a  shirt  made  from  the  intestines  of  the  sea- 
lion,  the  parts  of  which  are  ingeniously  sewed  together  with  fine 
threads  of  nerf.  A  kind  of  capuchJon,  or  hood,  is  attached  to 
the  collar ;  and  when  this  garde-pluie  is  on,  the  wearer  may  bid 
defiance  to  the  heaviest  rain.  These  shirts  are  made  by  the 
natives  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Russian  settlements  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  Columbia,  and  some  of  them  are  neatly  orna- 
mented. 

Nature  has  been  peculiarly  bountiful  to  the  natives  of  this 
district ;  and  nothing  but  the  grossest  neglect  of  her  gifts  can 
reduce  them  to  want.  The  spring  months  supply  them  with 
immense  quantities  of  small  fish  resemblins;  pilchard,  which  by 
Lewis  and  Clarke  are  called  anchovies.  These  are  smoke-driuJ, 
and  form  an  important  article  of  barter  with  the  upper  Indiani 
for  roots. 

From  June  to  the  latter  end  of  August  they  have  an  abund- 
ance of  deliciously  flavoured  salmon,  which,  from  its  richness,  at 
first  produced  a  general  dysentery  among  our  people. 

We  found  the  wild  raspberries  an  excellent  remedy  for  this 
disorder,  which  was  effectually  checked  by  their  astringent 
qualities. 


*f) 


4S 


824 


NATURAL   PnomiCTIONS. 


(     •, ... 


*'       >i 


The  months  of  August  and  September  furnish  a  plentiful 
supply  of  prime  sturgeon.  This  fish  attains  a  great  size.  Some 
of  those  we  took  were  eleven  feet  in  length ;  and,  with  the 
entrails  out,  weighed  from  three  to  four  hundred  pounds. 

This  period  also  produces  a  variety  of  wild  fruit : — in  June, 
small  white  strawberries  of  sweet  flavour;  these  are  followed  by 
red  and  amber  raspberries  of  the  ordint  ry  size:  but  somewhat 
sour.  Thi.j  are  found  in  moist  shady  grounds,  and  grow  on 
bushes  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  high. 

During  the  months  of  July,  August,  and  September,  the  fol- 
lowing kinds  of  fruit  are  obtained  in  considerable  quantities : 
viz.,  blue-berries,  wild-cherries,  gooseberries,  wild-pears,  and  a 
species  of  bitter  crab-apple,  which  cannot  be  used  unless  coddled 
or  boiled. 

Thero  is  an  evergreen  about  the  size  of  a  common  goose- 
berry bush,  and  with  small  thick  leaves  resembling  laurel.  In  the 
month  of  August  it  produces  abundance  of  fruit  of  a  small 
oblong  form,  which  grow  in  thick  clusters.  This  fruit  has  an 
insipid  taste,  but  is  looked  on  as  healthy,  and  great  quantities  of 
it  may  be  eaten  without  injury.  It  is  much  esteemed  by  the 
natives,  who  preserve  it  for  their  winter's  use,  by  making  it  into 
small  cakes,  which  are  gradually  dried  before  a  slow  fire. 

The  country  also  abounds  in  various  nutritive  roots,  of  which 
the  Indians  are  extremely  fond,  and  some  of  which  are  excellent 
antiscorbutics.  They  collect  large  quantities  of  a  kind  resem- 
bling young  onions,  which,  in  tho  first  instance,  they  dry  on  hot 
stones.  They  are  then  pulverised,  and,  being  worked  into  a 
paste,  are  formed  into  loaves  from  five  to  six  pounds  weight, 
which  they  lay  by  for  seasons  of  scarcity.  This  bread  has  a 
taste  resembling  liquorice.  An  inferior  description  of  fish  re- 
sembling salmon  is  taken  in  the  months  of  October  and  Novem- 
ber. It  is  poor,  dry,  and  has  an  insipid  taste  T!ie  flesh  is 
white,  the  teeth  long,  the  snout  bent  like  the  beak  of  a  parrot, 
and  it  contains  very  little  substance. 

The  principal  quadrupeds  are  the  elk,  red  deer,  black-tailed 
deer ;  the  black,  brown,  and  grizzly  bear,  the  last  of  which  is 
extremely  ferocious ;  the  wolf,  panther,  tiger-cat,  wild-cat,  mar- 
mot, beaver,  land-otter,  musk-rat,  wood-rat,  and,  the  most  valua- 
ble of  all  the  fur  tribe,  the  sea-otter.  White  bears  are  occu' 
sionally  killed  on  the  coast  to  the  northward  of  the  Columbia ; 
but  they  are  scarce. 

The  most  remarkable  of  the  feathered  tribe  are  the  black, 
brown,  and  nun  eagle  ;  the  hawk,  pelican,  and  cormorant ;  the 
swan,  heron,  crane,  bustard,  gray  and  white  goose,  and  various 
species  of  wild  ducks,  &c. 

The  soil  in  the  valleys  consists  of  a  bed  of  rich  black  mould, 


HABITS   AND  BfAMNBRS LAKOUAOB. 


225 


about  six  inches  in  depth,  which  covers  a  stratum  of  gray  earth 
extremely  cold.  The  latter  lies  on  a  layer  of  large  gravelly 
sand ;  and  under  all  is  a  bed  of  hard  flinty  stones.  On  the 
high  grounds,  under  a  thin  covering  of  black  mould,  are  found 
good  quarry  stones  well  adapted  for  building.  There  is  a  bank 
of  white  earth  resembling  chalk  to  the  southward  of  Point 
Adams ;  and  further  on,  in  the  same  direction,  the  Indians  find 
red,  green,  and  yellow  earths,  and  a  species  of  heavy  shining 
clay  resembling  lead-mine.  No  limestone  is  found  in  the  neigh« 
bourhood. 

Few  of  the  various  vegetable  seeds  which  were  planted  came 
to  perfection.  The  turnips  indeed  attained  a  prodigious  size. 
One  weighed  fift^jen  pounds  and  a  half,  and  was  thirty-three 
inches  in  circumference ;  they  were  in  flower  at  the  end  of 
December,  and  were  left  in  the  ground  ;  but  the  seeds  were 
destroyed  by  the  mice  which  infested  the  garden.  The  radishes 
throve  tolerably  well ;  but  owing  to  the  coldness  of  the  earth 
the  potatoes  failed  the  second  year. 

The  trees  most  common  in  the  neighbov^rhoodof  Fort  George 
are  the  cedar,  spruce,  pine,  aider,  &c.  The  cedars  are  from 
twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  circumference,  and  proportionably  high. 
The  alders  also  are  extremely  large,  some  of  them  measuring 
from  twelve  to  twenty  inches  in  diameter.  A  few  leagues 
above  the  fort,  ash  and  oak  are  found  ;  the  former  is  of  tolerable 
size  ;  but  the  latter,  compared  with  its  noble  brother  in  Eng- 
land, is  a  mere  dwarf. 

In  the  I4th  chapter,  I  have  referred  to  the  peculiarities, 
moral  qualities,  and  mechanical  ingenuity  of  the  natives  who 
reside  about  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  Little  therefore  re- 
mains to  be  said  on  these  subjects.  The  same  kind  of  houses 
and  canoes,  the  same  flattening  of  the  heads,  an  equal  love  of 
thieving  and  lying  on  the  part  of  the  men ;  shameless  profligacy 
among  the  women  ;  the  same  mode  of  living,  and  a  similaritv  in 
their  manner  of  burial,  are  observable  among  the  various  tribes, 
from  the  rapids  to  the  ocean.  They  all,  too,  speak  the  same 
language,  which  is  decidedly  the  most  unpronounceable  com- 
pound of  gutturals  ever  formed  for  the  communication  of  human 
thoughts,  or  the  expression  of  human  wants.  The  following 
are  a  few  of  their  words : 


Jcht,  one. 
Makutl,  two. 
Thlown,  three. 
Lakut,  four. 
^uannum,  five. 
Takut,  six. 
jSinebakwt,  seven. 
Slouktekane,  eight 


Q^uaiust,  nine. 
Itallilum,  ten. 
Ekoun  icht,  eleven. 
Ekoun  makuat,  tvi^elve- 
Makutt  thialt,  twentj. 
Moolak,  a  deer. 
EqiMnnet,  salmon. 
KaienouU,  tobacco, 

Ee 


m 


«• 


226 


THE  BIVBR8  WALLABIAT  AND  0OWKLI8KBV. 


^Wjft 


>« 


Pauitefiqua,  •  blanket. 
TiUikum,  men. 
Xamoo^r,  a  dog. 
SakqvuHal,  a*giin. 


Jdittaight  0  Ikolb,  lit  down  there. 
Tone  tte  fcooJama,  show  me  your  pip*' 
Patlach  nain  maika  ?  will  you  give  it 
to  me  ? 


Mr.  Franch^re,  who  attained  a  more  thorough  knowledge  of 
their  language  than  any  one  in  the  Company's  service,  states 
that  the  letters  F,  V,  and  others,  are  not  articulated  in  any  of 
their  words.  The  letter  R  is  also  wanting ;  but  some  words, 
pronounced  with  a  thick  guttural  lisp,  such  as  chreluU,  ap- 
proach its  sound.  The  combinations  thl,  tl,  k,  are  frequent,  and 
are  also  very  common  in  the  Mexican  langaage. 

In  proportion  aa  we  approach  the  rapids  from  the  sea,  female 
impurity  becomes  less  perceptible ;  beyond  this  point  it  entirely 
ceases.  I  think  it  necessary  to  menticm  this  fact,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  sweeping  censure  passed  by  Lewis  and  Clarke  on 
all  the  women  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  sea. 
The  reader  must  not  suppose  that  1  wish  to  cast  any  doubt  on 
the  general  accuracy  of  those  intelligent  travellers ;  indeed,  cb- 
cumstanced  as  they  were,  the  immense  fund  of  correct  and 
valuable  information  contained  in  their  journal  is  surprising; 
but  in  this  instance  they  have  wandered  from  the  fact. 

Having  ascended  the  Columbia  *^'ne  times ;  and  descended  ft 
eight,  I  had  better  opportunities  of  judging  of  the  manners  c^ 
the  natives  than  those  who  merely  passed  up  and  down ;  and 
during  those  various  journeys  I  never  saw  the  slightest  approxi- 
mation to  levity  of  manners  among  the  women  above  the  rapids. 

The  two  most  important  rivers  which  fall  into  the  Columbia 
below  the  rapids  are  the  Wallamat,  or  Multnomah,  and  the 
Coweliskee.  The  entrance  of  the  former  is  about  one  hundred 
miles  from  the  sea,  and  its  general  course  is  a  little  to  the  east- 
ward of  south.  I  was  merely  a  few  miles  above  its  junction 
with  the  Columbia ;  but  Messrs.  Clapp,  Franchere,  and  Halsey, 
who  ascended  it  a  considerable  distance,  state  that  it  runs 
through  a  low  well-wooded  country  for  upwards  of  sixty  miles, 
when  the  navigation  is  interrupted  by  a  considerable  fell,  above 
which  the  channel  contracts,  and  the  banks  become  higher  and 
less  woody.  The  cKmate  in  the  Wallamat  is  remarkably  mild, 
and  not  so  moist  as  that  on  the  coast.  It  possesses  a  rich  and 
luxuriant  soil,  which  yields  an  abundance  of  fruits  and  roots.* 
The  Indians  are  tranquil :  there  are  no  noxious  reptiles :  bea- 
ver, deer,  and  elk  are  plentiful ;  and  when,  in  the  course  of  time, 
the  improvements  of  scientific  cultivation  extend  to  the  Colum- 
bia, the  country  about  the  Wallamat  will  be  rendered  one  of  the 


1:^ 


w. 


*  A  few  years  since  tlio  tobacco  plant  was  discovered  in  the  Wallamat. 
The  lamplei  sent  home  are,  I  understand,  of  an  excellent  description. 


♦ 


"WAKlrARK — TEMPERATURE. 


1227 


most  deKchtful  districts  to  the  westward  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains.  We  know  little  of  the  Coweliskee.  It  enters  the  Co- 
lumbia about  half  a  day's  march  below  the  Wallamat  from  the 
northward :  its  banks  are  high,  and  thickly  wooded,  and  the 
current  much  interrupted  by  rapids.  Our  traders,  owing  to  the 
difficulty  of  the  navigation,  did  not  ascend  it  more  than  thirty 
miles.  The  tribe  who  inhabit  its  banks  are  called  the  Skilloots. 
They  are  friendly,  and  differ  little  from  the  lower  Indians. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


Deacription  of  climate,  aoil,  &a.  above  the  rapids — Sketch  of  various  tribci — 
The  Chohoptins — Yackamana — Oakinagans — SinapoiU — Spokans — Aneo- 
dote — Pointed-hearts — Cause  of  war — Cootoaais — Kettle  Indiaus — Kam- 
lopps,  Ac. 

I  HAVE  already  alluded  so  often  to  the  natives  about  the  first 
rapids,  and  the  great  falls,  that  I  may  here  pass  them  over  with 
a  few  words  explanatory  of  the  causes  that  induced  them  to 
commit  so  many  acts  of  hostility.  In  their  various  contests  with 
the  tribes  below  the  former,  and  above  the  latter,  they  were  gen- 
erally the  greatest  sufferers,  owing  to  the  fire-arms  which  those 
opposed  to  them  obtained  from  us  in  exchange  for  their  furs, 
horses,  &c. 

There  are  no  animals  of  the  fur  kind  in  the  nei^bourhood  of 
the  falls,  and  scarcely  any  about  the  rapids  :*  there  is  therefore 
nothing  to  induce  us  to  establish  a  trading  post  at  either  place;  and 
as  the  natives  are  aware  of  this,  and  of  tneir  consequent  inability 
to  procure  fire-arms,  &c.  they,  like  the  Black-feet,  identify  us 
with  their  old  enemies,  and  allow  no  opportunity  to  escape  of 
attacking  and  robbing  us.  A  small  party,  unencumbered  by  mer- 
chandise, may  pass  in  safety ;  otherwise,  as  has  been  already  seen, 
it  is  a  hazardous  experiment. 

From  the  falls  to  the  lands  of  the  Spokans  the  climate  is 
remarkably  healthy ;  in  summer,  excessively  hot ;  in  winter, 
intensely  cold  ;  but  subject  during  these  seasons  to  little  varia- 
tion.  A  cioud  is  seldom  seen ;  and  during  the  various  journeys 
I  have  made  up  and  down  the  Columbia,  I  did  not  witness  in 
the  above  space  ten  rainy  days. 

*  The  animals  which  Lewis  and  Clarke  saw  at  this  place,  and  which  they 
called  sea-otters,  are  seals.  We  have  killed  them  as  high  up  a«  the  Dalles 
ixalow  the  falls. 


■f 


I 


1 


Iff' 


838 


NATURAL  FBODVOTIONS— NATIVE   ANIMALS. 


The  soil  is  unproductive,  and  is  chiefly  a  light  yellowish  sandy 
clay.  The  plains  are  covered  with  a  short  kind  of  grass,  mixed 
with  prickly  pears,  wormwood,  and  tufls  of  long  coarse  grass 
from  three  to  four  feet  high.  Patches  of  clover  are  here  and 
there  visible,  and  in  their  vicinity  the  chappallel,  and  the  camas 
or  quamash  roots,  mentioned  bv  Lewis  and  Clarke,  are  found. 
Wild  onions  grow  in  considerable  quantities  along  the  banks  of 
the  river  above  the  falls.  They  are  small ;  and  from  March  to 
May  their  flavour  is  excellent ;  but  after  the  latter  month  they 
lose  their  relish,  and  become  dry  and  hard. 

Cotton-wood,  small  willow,  sumac,  furze,  and  sarsaparilla,  are 
also  found  occasionally  on  the  sides  of  the  Columbia ;  but  from 
the  falls,  until  we  approach  Spokan  River,  none  of  the  larger 
trees  are  visible.  Throughout  this  distance  (about  five  hundred 
miles)  our  only  fuel  was  derived  from  the  timber  drifted  down 
by  the  spring  freshes  from  the  upper  parts  of  the  Columbia,  and 
which  in  some  particular  bends  of  the  river  accumulates  in  great 
quantities.  In  other  places,  however,  it  is  very  scarce ;  and 
when  we  could  not  purchase  drift-wood  from  tne  Indians,  we 
were  often  obliged  to  encamp  without  any  fire. 

The  principal  animals  are  horses,  small  deer,  prairie  wolves, 
red  foxes,  badgers,  polecats,  hares,  and  dogs.  Otters  are  some- 
times seen,  but  the  great  staple  animal,  the  beaver,  is  a  stranger 
to  this  district.  The  Indians  allege  that  bufialoes  were  formerly 
numerous  about  the  plains,  and  assert  that  remains  of  these  ani- 
mals are  still  found.  Between  Lewis  River  and  Spokan  House 
we  saw  many  bleached  antlers  of  elk,  together  with  the  large 
curved  horns  of  the  sheep  which  are  now  found  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  These  animals  have  long  since  fled 
from  the  plams.  None  of  the  present  race  of  Indians  have  seen 
any  of  them,  and  are  unable  to  account  for  their  disappearance. 
We  were  equally  at  a  loss  to  divine  the  cause  ;  and  whether  the 
annual  burning  of  the  grass  by  the  natives  in  hunting  the  deer 
had  any  influence  in  driving  them  away,  I  shall  leave  to  the 
curious  in  animal  emigration  to  determine. 

No  rattlesnakes  are  seen  below  the  falls.  A  short  distance 
above  them  these  reptiles  make  their  first  appearance,  and  are 
numerous  as  far  as  the  Chaudiere  falls,  a  couple  of  days'  march 
above  which  they  totally  disappear.  There  is  in  some  places  a 
small  black  snake,  the  bite  of  which  causes  death  much  quicker 
than  that  of  the  rattlesnake.  An  old  Indian  near  Oakinagan 
told  me  that  a  child  of  his,  a  girl  about  five  years  old,  one  day 
looking  for  blue-berries  with  other  children,  was  bitten  by  a  very 
small  black  snake,  and  died  in  about  an  hour  afterward.  There 
are  numbers  of  dark-brown,  green,  and  garter  snakes,  but  they 
are  perfectly  innocuous.  . .    .i     » -..^, 


PERPBTVAL  WAAFARE — CLOTHING. 


299 


I  have  already  spoken  of  the  Wallah  Wallahs,  and  of  their 
friendly  disposition.  With  the  exception  of  the  attack  in  the 
autumn  of  1814,  they  never  manifested  any  hostility  to  our  peo- 
ple ;  and  we  had  reason  to  know  the  part  they  took  in  that  trans- 
action  was  compulsory.  The  entrance  of  their  river  is  in  lat. 
46°  4'.  There  is  scarcely  any  beaver  on  their  lands  ;  but  deer, 
wild  fowl,  and  roots,  are  obtained  in  plenty,  and  with  the  salmon, 
constitute  their  principal  food.  They  are  a  well-formed  race, 
cleanly  in  their  persons,  good  hunters,  and  excellent  horsemen. 
The  Chohoptins,  or  Nez-Perces,  differ  little  from  them  in  their 
language,  customs,  or  mode  of  living.  The  productions  of  their 
lands  are  nearly  similar  ;  and  they  have  immense  bands  of  wild 
and  tame  horses.  They  reside  principally  on  the  banks  of  Lewis 
River,  and  are  a  numerous  and  powerful  tribe.  They  and  the 
Wallah  Wallahs  are  constantly  at  war  with  the  Shoshones,  or 
Snake  Indians,  who  inhabit  the  great  plains  to  the  southward. 
The  only  cause  assigned  by  the  Wallah  Wallahs  for  this  war  is, 
that  the  Snakes  interdict  them  from  hunting  the  black-tailed 
deer,  which  are  numerous  on  their  lands,  and  in  retaliation  they 
oppose  the  latter  in  their  endeavours  to  catch  salmon  in  the  Co- 
lumbia. They  allege  that  this  opposition  would  cease  if  the 
Shoshones  abandoned  their  claim  to  the  exclusive  right  of  hunt- 
ing the  black-tailed  deer.  As  this  is  a  privilege,  however,  which 
the  latter  are  not  willing  to  concede,  their  warfare  may  be 
interminable. 

The  Yackamans  are  a  numerous  tribe,  who  inhabit  the  lands 
on  the  northern  banks  of  the  Columbia,  from  its  junction  above 
Ijewis  River  until  some  distance  above  a  river  which  flows  from 
the  northward,  and  is  called  after  the  name  of  the  tribe.  They 
are  on  friendly  terms  with  the  Chohoptins  and  Wallah  Wallahs, 
and  make  common  cause  with  them  against  the  Shoshones. 

From  the  falls  to  this  place  there  is  little  variation  in  the  dress 
of  the  natives.  The  men  wear  leathern  shirts  and  gaiters,  and 
the  women  are  covered  with  shifts  of  the  same  material ;  but  a 
short  distance  above  the  Yackaman  river,  and  from  thence  to 
Oakinagan,  we  met  during  the  fishing  season  some  straggling 
bands,  wretchedly  poor,  and  nearly  naked.  The  men  are 
without  any  garments.  The  women  wear  a  leathern  belt  round 
their  waist,  from  which  a  narrow  slip  passes  from  the  front,  and 
is  secured  behind,  something  in  the  manner  of  the  maro  worn  by 
the  male  natives  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  The  rest  of  their 
persons  is  quite  naked  ;  and  their  appearance,  particularly  that 
of  their  old  women,  is  extremely  disgusting.  They  have  few 
horses  ;  and  other  animals  are  scarce  on  their  land. 

Continuing  our  course  upwards,  we  arrive  among  the  Oakin- 
agans,  where  decency  in  covering  again  appears.    Of  this  tribe 


V 


'^1 

Hi 

'  .')*♦ 

Wi' 

.^1 

W&t\ 

*             ^ 

nUtt 

* 

^HB| 

IHwmI 

^^Bl  ^i  I  < 

MtKitt.  1 

I 

Jffiiij 

iim^ 

HKB! 

■^- 


Vi\ 


-*  % 


It' 


330 


TlIB   nNAPOILS — THE  8POKANB. 


I.')*- 


ir '.' 


m 


I  have  already  spoken  sufficiently ;  and  shall  therefore  merely 
remark,  that  although  far  from  cleanly  in  their  lodges,  they  keep 
their  persons  always  well  covered.  The  latitude  of  Oakinagan 
is  48°  6'  north,  and  the  longitude  about  117°  west. 

The  next  tribe  we  meet  are  the  Sinapoils,  who  occupy  a  dig* 
trict  on  the  northern  banks  of  the  Columbia,  between  the  Spo« 
kan  and  Oakinagan  rivers.  They  subsist  principally  on  salmon 
and  cammas,  and  sometimes  small  deer.  Beaver  is  scarce ;  and 
they  are  consequently  poorer  than  the  neighbouring  tribes,  on 
whose  lands  that  valuable  animal  abounds.  They  are  dirty  and 
slothful,  and,  from  their  habits  of  dishones*;, ,  are  regarded  by 
the  other  natives  wi'.'.:  the  utmost  contempt.  From  the  pov- 
erty of  their  territory  no  trading  post  has  been  hitherto  es- 
tablished among  them,  ''^his  circumstance  has  indisposed  them 
towards  the  white  men,  and  they  seized  every  opportunity  of 
committing  depredations  on  our  people.  They  are,  however, 
poor  in  arms,  and  poorer  in  spirit;  and  their  aggressions  were 
chiefly  confined  to  petty  pilfering  and  horse-steanng. 

The  Sinapoils  are  much  addicted  to  gambling,  and  its  con- 
comitant vice,  quarrelling.  We  could  never  rigntly  ascertain 
whether  they  had  a  chief;  but  from  their  insubordination,  local 
feuds,  and  love  of  thieving,  we  were  inclined  to  doubt  the  ex- 
istence of  any  controlling  authority.  They  never  committed 
any  open  act  of  hostility  on  us ;  but  this  we  had  good  reason  to 
know  was  occasioned  by  the  manner  in  which  they  were  kept 
in  check  by  the  friendly  tribes  of  Spokan,  Oakinagan,  and  Kam- 
loops ;  any  of  whom  would  not  only  willingly  take  our  part,  but 
would  punish  the  assailants  with  greater  severity  than  we  might 
be  inchned  to  use  if  left  to  our  own  discretion. 

In  justice,  however,  to  this  unfortunate  race,  it  must  be  borne 
in  mind  that  they  are  tantalized  by  seeing  in  the  possession  of 
their  neighbours  the  Oakinagans  and  Spokans  various  articles 
which  they  obtain  in  exchange  for  the  productions  of  their 
more  favoured  lands ;  and  the  Sinapoils  therefore  cannot  resist 
the  temptation,  when  opportunity  offers,  to  steal  from  the  traders 
what  the  poverty  of  their  country  prevents  them  from  obtaining 
honestly. 

About  forty-five  miles  above  the  Sinapoil  village,  Spokan 
river  joins  the  Columbia  from  the  eastward.    At  Oakinagan  the 

Elains  begin  to  disappear ;  and  from  thence  to  the  Sinapoil  lands 
igh  naked  bluffs  predominate.  A  short  distance  above  the 
latter  place  some  stra^ling  pines  become  visible,  which  increase 
thence  upwards  in  size  and  Quantity.  The  Spokans  have  a 
small  village  at  the  entrance  or  their  river,  but  their  chief  and 
permanent  place  of  residence  is  about  forty  miles  higher  up, 
vtrhere  we  built  our  fort,  and  where  the  Pointed-heart  River 


rji%£ 


imaMBMii'' 


►s' 


TBI   arOKANf. 


331 


joins  the  Spokan  from  the  aouth-east.    Their  landa  present  a 

E leading  variety  of  well-wooded  hills,  open  prairies,  ana  rich  flat 
ottoms,  which  produce  abundance  ot  nutritive  roots  and  wild 
fruit.  Benver,  deer,  and  various  kinds  of  wild  fowl,  dec.  ar« 
occasionally  plentiful,  while  their  river  supplies  them  with  excel- 
lent salmon,  trout,  and  carp.  Yet,  notwitlistunding  these  ad- 
vantages, such  is  their  improvidence,  that  they  are  often  reduced 
to  starvation.  In  times  of  scarcity  they  collect  a  quantity  of 
pine-moss,  which  they  boil,  and  form  into  a  kind  of  black  cake 
about  half  an  inch  thick.  It  is  a  horrible  preparation,  and  has 
a  bitter  saponaceous  taste. 

The  Spokans  are  an  honest  friendly  tnbe.  They  are  good 
hunters,  but  somewhat  indolent,  fond  of  gambling,  despotic 
husbands,  and  indulgent  fathers.  Their  women  are  great  slaves, 
and  most  submissive  to  marital  authority.  They  did  not  exhibit 
the  same  indiflference  to  the  superior  comforts  of  a  white  man's 
wife  as  that  displayed  by  the  Flat-head  women,  and  some  of 
them  consequently  became  partners  of  the  voyageurs.  They 
made  excellent  wives,  and  in  general  conducted  themselves  with 
propriety.  Although  the  Spokan  men  are  extremely  jealous, 
and  punish  with  severity  any  infidelity  on  the  part  of  their 
wives,  they  are  themselves  not  over-scrupulous  in  their  own 
conduct.  We  learned  from  the  wives  of  the  voyageurs  that 
female  violation  is  by  no  means  uncommon  among  them.  The 
frequent  journeys  which  the  women,  in  the  execution  of  their 
laborious  duties,  are  obliged  to  make  alone  into  the  woods  in 
search  of  fuel,  roots,  &c.  afford  great  facility  to  the  commission 
of  this  offence ;  and  the  ravisher  depends  on  impunity  from  the 
well-known  fear  of  the  woman  to  tell  her  husband,  who  might 
either  abandon  her,  or,  by  taking  the  offender's  life,  embroil 
their  respective  families  in  a  sanguinary  contest. 

Slavish  and  submissive  as  the  Spoken  women  are,  they  do 
not  tan  ;ly  submit  to  the  occasional  lapses  of  their  husbands; 
an  instance  of  which  occurred  in  the  summer  of  1815,  while  I 
was  at  Spokan  House.  One  of  the  tribe  named  Smghelsass- 
coghaght,  (or  the  horse),  from  his  great  swiflness  and  dexterity  in 
riding,  was  a  tall  and  rather  handsome  Indian.  He  was  re- 
markable for  his  gallantries,  and  it  was  whispered  among  the 
females  that  he  never  spared  a  woman  he  caught  unprotected  in 
the  woods.  His  wife  had  for  some  time  suspected  him  of  car- 
rying on  an  intrigue,  and  being  constantly  on  the  watch,  she 
soon  discovered  that  her  suspicions  were  not  groundless.  The 
very  ni^ht  of  the  discovery,  while  he  was  in  a  profound  sleep, 
she  inflicted  on  him  a  dreadful  injury,  of  which  he  died  before 
morning.  On  the  intelligence  becoming  public,  a  crowd  of  his 
relations  assembled  round  the  lodge,  to  whom  she  openly  avowed 


^ 


.1 


% 


i 


i 


Tni9   POIKTID-mARTS. 


herself  as  the  author  of  his  death,  stating  at  the  same  time  her 
reasons  for  committing  the  dreudfiil  act;  but  she  had  scarcely 
finished  when  an  arrow  from  her  husbimd's  brother  (|uivcrcd  in 
her  heart.  Her  relations  instantly  collected.  Guns,  arrows, 
and  tomahawks  were  in  immediate  requisition,  and  before  we 
coidd  arrive  to  check  the  bloody  conHict,  two  men  and  two 
women  had  fallen  victims.  Our  presence  restored  tran(iuillity  ; 
and  as  the  sufferers  on  each  side  were  e( lually  divided,  we  ex- 
perienced no  great  difficulty  in  brinjjing  about  a  reconciliation, 
and  each  party  rested  satisfied  with  its  respective  loss. 

The  Pointed-hearts,  or,  as  the  Canadians  call  them,  les  Creura 
d^AUnes  (Hearts  of  Awls),  arc  a  small  tribe  inhabiting  the 
shores  of  a  lake  about  fifty  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Spokan 
House.  Their  country  u  lolerobly  well  stocked  with  beaver, 
deer,  wild-fowl,  &c. ;  and  its  vegetable  productions  are  similar 
to  those  of  Spokan.  Some  of  this  tribe  occasionally  visited  our 
fort  at  the  latter  place  with  furs  to  barter,  and  we  made  a  few 
excursions  to  their  lands.  We  found  them  uniformly  honest  in 
their  traffic ;  but  they  did  not  evince  the  same  warmth  of  friend- 
ship for  us  as  the  Spokans,  and  expressed  no  desire  for  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  trading  post  among  them.  They  are  in  many 
respects  more  savage  than  their  neighbours,  and  I  have  seen 
some  of  them  oflen  eat  deer  and  other  meat  raw.  They  are 
also  more  unfeeling  husbands,  and  frequently  beat  their  wives 
in  a  cruel  manner. 

About  twenty  years  beforo  our  arrival,  the  Spokans  and 
Pointed-hearts  were  at  war,  caused  by  a  kind  of  Trojan  origin. 
A  party  of  the  former  had  been  on  a  hunting  visit  to  the  lands 
of  the  latter,  and  were  hospitably  received.  One  day  a  young 
Spokan  discovered  the  wife  of  a  Pointed-heart  alone,  some  dis- 
tance from  the  village,  and  violated  her  Although  she  might 
have  borne  this  in  silence  from  one  of  hf .  x>wn  tribe,  she  was 
not  equally  forbearing  with  regard  to  a  stianger,  and  immediately 
informed  her  husband  of  the  outrage.  He  lost  no  time  in  seek- 
ing revenge,  and  shot  the  Spokan  as  he  entered  the  village. 
The  others  fled  to  their  own  lands,  and  prepared  for  war.  A 
succession  of  sanguinary  conflicts  followed,  in  the  course  of 
which  the  greatest  warriors  of  both  sides  were  nearly  destroyed, 
at  the  end  of  a  year,  however,  hostilities  ceased ;  since  which 
period  they  have  been  at  peace.  The  two  nations  now  inter- 
marry, and  appear  to  be  on  the  best  terms  of  friendship. 

Leaving  the  Pointed-hearts,  we  cross  the  Fat-head  river,  and 
come  to  the  Cootonais,  who  inhabit  a  small  and  beautiful  district 
near  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  about  sixty  miles  to 
the  north-east  of  the  Flat-head  lands.  It  is  nearly  surrounded 
by  a  chain  of  lofly  and  thickly-wooded  mountains,  and  is  con- 


^M 


Tni  cooTONAia. 


<i33 


aequcntly  very  difiicuU  of  acceta.  Boavor  is  plentiful  in  thii 
country,  and  of  a  superior  doscription.  Otters,  martens,  and 
bears  are  also  found,  with  excellent  deer  and  mountain  sheep.* 

The  Cootonnis  aro  the  remnant  of  a  once  bravo  and  powerful 
tribe,  who,  like  the  Flat-heads,  were  perpetually  cngased  in  war 
with  the  Black-fcct  for  the  risht  of  hunting  on  the  buffalo 
grounds.  Previous  to  our  arrival  among  them  they  entertained 
tne  most  deadly  hatred  against  white  men,  to  whom  they  attributed 
all  their  misfortunes,  owing  to  the  asHiHlunce  which  their  enemies 
received  in  arms  and  ammunition  trom  the  North-west  Com- 
pany's people  to  the  eastward  of  the  mountains. 

Thev  appeared  to  be  perfectly  aware  that  beaver  was  the 
only  object  that  induced  us  to  visit  their  country  ;  and  they  ac- 
coraingly  exerted  themselves  to  procure  it,  not,  as  some  of  them 
candidly  declared,  for  our  interest,  but  for  the  purpose  of  obtain- 
ing fire-arms,  spears,  &c.  to  enable  them  to  meet  their  old  ene- 
mies the  Black-feet  on  more  equal  terms. 

They  are  a  very  peculiar  tribe.  Their  language  bears  no 
affinity  whatever  to  that  of  any  of  the  western  nations.  It  is 
infinitely  sofler  and  more  free  from  those  unpronounceable  gut- 
turals so  common  among  the  lower  tribes.  As  with  the  Flat* 
heads,  buffalo  is  the  cause  of  all  their  misfortunes ;  for  although, 
as  1  have  before  mentioned,  their  lands  abound  in  plenty  of  other 
animals,  their  hereditary  attachment  to  the  buffalo  is  so  uncon- 
querable, that  it  drives  them  every  year  to  the  plains,  where  they 
come  in  contact  with  the  Black- feet.  In  these  contests  they  are 
generally  victors,  but  they  always  return  with  diminished  num- 
bers. They  have  latterly  entered  into  a  kind  of  alliance,  offen- 
sive and  defensive,  with  the  Flat-heads,  by  which  they  have 
agreed  that  neither  party  shall  make  peace  with  the  Black-feet 
until  the  latter  shall  permit  them  to  hunt  without  molestation  on 
the  buffalo  plains.  As  this  is  a  concession  not  likely  to  be 
granted,  it  is  probable  that  the  war  will  terminate  only  with  the 
extermination  of  one  or  other  of  the  parties. 

The  Cootonais  are  by  no  means  so  warm-hearted  towards 
the  whites  as  their  neighbours  the  Flat-heads ;  but  Mr.  Montour, 
who  spent  some  years  among  them,  states,  that  they  are  strictly 
honest  in  all  their  dealings,  and  remarkable  for  their  adherence 
to  truth ;  a  virtue,  by-the-bye,  of  which  few  Indians  can  boast. 

Polygamy  is  unknown  among  them ;  and  he  never  knew  an 
instance  wherein  any  of  their  women  admitted  overtures  of  an 
improper  nature.  They  appear  to  be  jealous  of  white  men, 
and  studiously  conceal  their  females  whenever  any  of  the  traders 
approach  their  lodges. 

*  The  tobacco  plant  hat  lately  been  diecovered  in  this  dictrict. 

Ff 


' 


f, 


234 


THE   CHAVIHERE:;^—- THE  KAMLOOPS. 


:  ''i 


^     >!'■/ 


A  Cootonais  seldom  smiles.  He  thinks  that  sooner  or  later 
he  is  doomed  to  fall  in  the  field  of  battle ;  and  this  certainty  of 
death,  joined  to  the  number  of  relatives  annually  killed  in  ttieir 
constant  warfare,  imparts  to  his  features  a  settled  melancholy. 

The  greatest  cleanliness  and  neatness  are  observable  about 
their  persons  and  lodges.  They  are  rather  handsome,  above  the 
middle  size,  and,  compared  w^ith  other  tribes,  remarkably  fair. 
On  the  whole,  we  may  say  of  this  interesting  people,  that,  in 
their  intercourse  with  white  men  they  are  rather  haughty  and 
reserved ;  in  conversation,  candid ;  in  trade,  honest ;  brave  in 
battle ;  and  devotedly  attached  to  each  other  and  their  country. 
The  trading  post  established  among  the  Cootonais  is  situated  in 
about  49°  30'  north  latitude,  and  115°  west  longitude. 

The  Chaudi^res  or  Kettle  Indians,  and  the  small  band  under 
the  hermaphrodite  chief,  have  already  been  mentioned  together 
with  the  productions  of  their  respective  lands.  The  Chaudiere 
fall  is  situated  in  48°  37'  north  latitude,  and  the  longitude,  by 
chronometer,  is  about  116°  west. 

A  small  tribe  exists  on  the  upper  lakes  of  the  Columbia,  which 
wanders  about  in  straggling  parties  of  three,  four,  or  five  each. 
They  appear  to  be  timid  in  approaching  white  people,  but  are 
not  unfriendly.  They  have  no  horses,  are  poor  hunters,  go 
nearly  naked,  and  subsist  principally  on  fish. 

About  "one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the  north-west  of  Oakin< 
agan,  in  the  direction  of  Thompson's  River,  the  Company  has  a 
post  established  among  a  tribe  called  the  Kamloops,  to  which 
there  is  a  communication  by  land,  or  by  means  of  the  Oakinagan 
river  and  lake.  Beaver  is  rather  plentiful  in  this  quarter  ;  and, 
with  salmon,  constitutes  their  chief  riches.  They  have  few 
horses,  and  deer  are  scarce  on  their  lands.  Messrs.  La  Rocque 
and  M'Donald,  who  wintered  among  them,  state  that  the  Kam- 
loops  are  less  friendly  than  any  tribe  among  whom  we  had  posts 
established.  They  are  addicted  to  thieving  and  quarrelling, 
wear  little  covering,  and  are  extremely  dirty  in  their  persons. 
Like  other  tribes,  they  are  subject  to  occasional  famine,  owing 
to  their  neglecting  to  provide  in  the  fishing  season  a  sufi^ciency 
of  salmon  for  the  periods  of  scarcity. 

Beyond  Kamloops  to  the  northward  the  department  of  New 
Caledonia  commences,  inhabited  by  a  tribe  called  the  Carriers ; 
of  whom  I  have  given  a  sketch  in  a  letter  from  Mr.  John 
Stewart.  A  mo/e  comprehensive  description  of  their  country, 
its  productions,  &c.,  will  be  found  in  the  Appendix. 

From  the  upper  parts  of  the  Columbia  and  its  subordinate 
streams,  to  the  lower  falls,  the  natives  inter  their  dead  in  a 
similar  manner  to  that  which  I  have  described  among  the 
Spokans.    From  the  fiills  to  the  lower  rapids  the  bodies  of  the 


1  -i' 


INTOXICATION— O'REATMENT   OF  FEMALES. 


235 


.*. 


deceased  are  enveloped  in  mats  and  skins,  and  placed  in  ceme- 
teries in  a  retired  situation ;  one  of  Aviiich  is  described  in  the 
«arly  part  of  this  volume.  Thence  to  the  mouth  of  the  river 
the  dead  are  placed  in  canoes  in  the  manner  mentioned  in  my 
sketch  of  the  Chinooks. 

They  all  believe  in  a  future  state  of  rewards  and  punish- 
ments. Their  moral  code  differs  but  little  from  that  of  the  Flat- 
heads.  The  articles  of  food,  clothing,  &c.,  most  in  use  among 
them  while  living,  they  hope  also  to  enjoy  in  the  abodes  of 
future  happiness ;  while,  in  their  place  of  punishment,  cold,  hun- 
ger, and  thirst,  await  the  bad  people. 

There  is  one  item  in  the  Oakinagan  creed  relative  to  future 
torments,  which  is,  I  imagine,  peculiar  to  that  tribe.  An  evil 
spirit,  with  face,  arms,  and  legs  like  a  man,  and  a  long  tail  and 
ears  like  a  horse,  jumps  about  from  tree  to  tree  with  a  stick  in 
his  hand,  with  which  he  unmercifully  belabours  all  the  con- 
demned, who  are  prevented  by  the  agility  of  his  movements 
from  touching  him.  This  is  An  additional  punishment  to  what 
all  other  tribes  believe  their  wicked  will  have  to  suffer. 

We  never  brought  ardent  spirits  among  them  for  the  purposes 
of  barter,  and  therefore  cannot  say  how  far  an  abundance  of  it 
would  have  seduced  them  to  its  intemperate  use  ;  but  the  few 
whom  we  knew  to  have  tasted  a.iy  did  not  seem  to  relish  it, 
except  on  one  occasion  that  we  gave  a  few  glasses  to  old  Illim- 
spokanee,  the  chief  of  the  Spokans.  He  staggered  home  in  a 
state  of  intoxication,  and  in  a  couple  of  days  returned  and 
begged  for  a  little  more  of  the  "  strong  water"  (rum) ;  but  as 
we  did  not  wish  to  encourage  its  consumption  by  the  Indians, 
and  were  apprehensive  of  the  evil  effects  which  his  example 
might  produce,  we  refused  to  give  him  any  more,  alleging  that 
our  stock  was  exhausted. 

The  treatment  of  the  women  differs  materially  among  the 
various  tribes.  Where  food  is  principally  obtained  by  the  exer- 
tions of  the  men  (as  among  the  Cootonais,  Flat-heads,  Spokans, 
&c.)  the  women  are  condemned  to  great  drudgery.  When  a 
hunter  kills  a  deer,  he  merely  cuts  out  the  tongue,  or  takes 
enough  for  a  meal,  and  on  returning  to  his  lodge  despatches  his 
wife  for  the  body.  She  is  guided  to  the  spot  by  notches  which 
he  has  made  in  the  trees.  She  also  collects  fire-wood,  carries 
water,  cooks,  makes  and  cleans  his  shirts,  prepares  the  meat  and 
fish  for  curing,  &:c.  They  possess  little  or  no  influence,  and, 
notwithstanding  their  laborious  duties,  seem  perfectly  contented. 
Among  the  lower  tribes,  however,  where  their  exertions  in  col- 
lecting the  Wappitoo  roots  contribute  to  the  general  support, 
Ihefi  assume  an  air  of  liberty  and  independence  quite  unknown 


I 


1 


236 


DEPARTURE  FROM  FORT  OEOROE. 


f, 


i]     *', 


\ 


m 


among  the  upper  natives ;  and  in  all  cases  of  importance  the 
elderly  women  equally  with  the  men  are  consulted. 

From  the  foregoing  brief  sketch  it  will  be  seen  that  those 
qualities  which  may  be  ranked  among  the  virtues,  are  more 
conspicuous  among  the  warlike  tribes  of  the  Cootonais  and  Flat- 
heads  than  among  those  lower  down.  With  the  exception  of 
slips  of  red  cloth,  or  a  few  feathers  adorning  their  heads,  they 
enter  the  field  of  battle  perfectly  naked, 

Pride  in  their  port,  defiance  in  tlieir  eye.  .  4    ' 

Their  bravery  is  pre-eminent : — a  love  of  truth  they  think  neces- 
sary  to  a  warrior's  character.  They  are  too  proud  to  be  dis- 
honest, too  candid  to  be  cunning.  Their  many  avocations  leave 
them  no  leisure  for  gambling ;  and  their  strict  subordination, 
joined  to  the  necessity  of  exerting  all  their  energies  against  the 
common  enemy,  prevents  them  from  quarrelling. 

Here  I  may  close  my  account  of  the  occurrences,  &c.  which 
came  under  my  observation  during  my  residence  on  the  Colum- 
bia and  its  tributary  streams.  A  few  characteristic  sketches  of 
the  Canadians,  half-breeds,  Iroquois,  &c.  will  appear  in  the  Ap- 
pendix ;  together  with  an  interesting  description  of  New  Cale- 
donia, and  a  statement  of  various  circumstances  which  occurred 
subsequent  to  my  quitting  the  Indian  country,  and  the  insertion 
of  which  here  would,  I  imagined,  have  broken  in  on  the  chro-  4^ 
nological  order  o."  my  narrative. 

Towards  the  latter  end  of  March,  1817,  the  other  wintering 
parties  joined  us  at  Oakinagan,  from  whence  we  all  proceeded 
to  Fort  George,  which  we  reached  on  the  3d  of  April. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


Aicent  of  the  Columbia — Ita  lakes — Dangerous  navigation — High  water- 
Arrive  at  the  mountains — Melancholy  detail  of  the  death  of  six  of  the  party. 

'  Wednesday,  April  16th,  1817.  At  one  p.  m.  on  this  day 
we  took  our  departure  from  Fort  George  under  a  salute  of 
seven  guns.  Our  party  consisted  of  eighty-six  souls,  and  was 
perhaps  the  largest  and  most  mixed  that  ever  ascended  the  Co- 
lumbia. In  it  were  five  Scotchmen,  two  English,  and  one 
Irish ;  thirty-six  Canadians,  twenty  Iroquois  Indians,  two  Nipis- 
in^s,  one  Cree,  and  three  half-breeds ;  nine  natives  of  the  9ind- 
wich  Islands ;  with  one  boy,  a  servant,  two  women,  and  two 


!*S 


ASCENT  OF  THE  COLUMBIA — ENCAMPMENT. 


237 


ance  the 

at  those 
re  more 
md  Flat- 
eption  of 
ids,  they 


ik  neces* 
be  dis- 
>ns  leave 
dination, 
linst  the 

p.  which 
Colum- 
Iches  of 
the  Ap- 
w  Cale- 
►ccurred 
nsertion 
le  chro-. 

I  1* 

intering 
oceeded 


water — 
le  party. 

his  day 
ilute  of 
nd  was 
the  Co. 
nd  one 
>  Nipis- 
s8»nd. 
id  two 


children.  The  whole  embarked  in  two  barges  and  nine  canoes 
(two  of  which  were  of  bark),  each  containing  on  an  average 
twenty-two  packages,  each  weighing  ninety  pounds. 

Owing  to  a  strong  head-breeze,  we  were  unable  to  double 
Tongue  Point,  on  the  west  side  of  which  we  were  obliged  to 
encamp  in  view  of  the  fort.  We  remained  here  on  the  17th 
and  18th,  during  which  days  it  blew  a  perfect  hurricane  from 
the  eastward,  accompanied  by  heavy  showers.  Our  tents  were 
repeatedly  blown  down ;  and  we  might  have  suffered  severely 
from  the  incessant  rain,  had  not  the  governor  of  Fort  George 
considerately  despatched  to  us  an  additional  quantity  of  port 
and  rum,  with  which  we  succeeded  in  neutralizing  the  over- 
powering humidity  of  the  atmosphere. 

The  wind  having  moderated  on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  we 
resumed  our  voyage  after  breakfast.  We  had  occasional 
showers  during  the  day,  and  passed  some  scattered  lodges  of 
natives,  from  whom  we  purchased  a  quantity  cf  excellent  stur- 
geon.    Encamped  a  little  after  five  o'clock  on  Oak  Point. 

We  embarked  at  daybreak  on  the  20th,  with  calm  weather : 

Purchased  a  quantity  of  sturgeon.  Towards  evening  a  smart 
reeze  sprung  up  in  our  favour,  which  enabled  us  to  hoist  sail ; 
and  we  continued  on  in  fine  style  until  five,  when  we  encamped 
at  the  village  of  Kyeassino,  a  friendly  chief,  a  short  distance 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Multnomah  or  Wallamat.  We  had  a 
few  slight  showers  during  the  day. 

On  the  21st  we  arose  with  the  dawn,  and  embarked.  Some 
of  the  canoes  having  struck  on  sunken  trees,  we  were  obliged 
to  put  ashore  for  a  couple  of  hours  to  repair  the  damage  and 
dry  the  goods.  We  encamped  at  dusk  about  five  miles  above 
La  Prairie  du  The,  so  called  by  the  Canadians  from  a  species 
of  mint  which  grows  in  it,  and  which  they  are  fond  of  using  as 
a  substitute  for  tea.  Passed  a  few  lodges  of  Indians,  but  did 
not  stop.    Weather  same  as  yesterday. 

The  mo^-ning  of  the  22d  was  cloudy  and  chilly,  with  a  slight 
head-breeze,  which  lasted  nearly  the  entire  day.  We  however 
made  good  way  ;  and  at  three  p.  m.  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the 
rapids.  Made  two  discharges,  and  passed  them  sans  accident. 
Encamped  at  sunset  at  the  west  end  of  the  portage.  As  this 
was  the  scene  of  several  attacks,  we  formed  a  strong  barricade 
of  canoes  and  goods  about  the  encampment,  and  divided  the 
party  into  three  watches.  Several  of  the  natives  visited  us. 
The  men  were  unarmed  and  well-behaved ;  and  the  females 
appeared  solicitous  to  bestow  their  favours  on  some  of  our  peo- 
ple. They  appeared  somewhat  surprised  and  offended  to  find 
tint  love  had  no  influence  in  our  camp  ;  and  left  us  late  in  the 
evening,  evidently  chagrined  at  their  reception. 


238 


THE   FORTAOE. 


% 


i 


The  night  passed  over  quietly;  and  we  commenced  the  portage 
at  daybreak,  on  the  momins  of  the  24th,  with  cool  calm  weather. 
The  Indians  behaved  very  friendly,  and  offered  their  services  to 
assist  in  carrying  the  goods.  We  did  not  think  it  prudent  to 
refuse  them,  and  at  half-past  ten  the  portage  was  cleared.  We 
breakfasted  at  the  upper  end,  and  purchased  a  few  salmon  from 
the  natives,  to  whom  we  gave  the  usual  present  of  tobacco ; 
after  which  we  proceeded  on.  The  weather  during  the  day  was 
extremely  warm  for  the  season.  Put  ashore  once  to  repair  the 
canoes,  and  encamped  late  in  the  evening  at  the  point  of  the 
Mangy  Dog. 

The  weaiher  continuing  calm,  we  embarked  at  half-past  one 
on  the  morning  of  the  24th  ;  but  owing  to  the  darkness,  several 
of  our  canoes  struck  on  sunken  rocks  and  trees,  which  compel- 
led us  to  put  ashore  at  daylight  to  repair  the  damage.  At  nine 
we  proceeded  on,  and  doubled  Cape  Horn  in  calm  weather ;  a 
circumstance  of  very  raye  occurrence  in  voyages  on  the 
Columbia. 

At  three  p.  m.  arrived  at  the  Dalles  (narrows),  and  imme- 
diately began  the  portage,  but  were  only  enabled  to  get  half 
through  it,  when  we  encamped.  The  young  chief,  and  the  old 
chieftainess,  accompanied  by  several  Indians,  paid  us  a  visit. 
They  were  unarmed,  and  conducted  themselves  peaceably. 

We  finished  the  portc^e  at  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
25th,  and  breakfasted  berore  embarking ;  after  which  we  contin- 
ued on,  with  a  strong  breeze  in  our  favour.  Passed  several  dan- 
gerous points ;  and  with  much  difficulty,  owing  to  the  low  state 
of  the  water,  we  succeeded  in  making  our  way  without  unload- 
ing, through  the  narrow  channel  to  the  right  of  the  small  Dalles. 
At  four  p.  M.  we  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  Great  Falls  on  the 
Bouth  side.  A  few  Indians  crossed  over  to  our  encampment ;  but 
the  weather  being  wet  and  stormy,  they  shortly  afler  returned. 

26th.  It  blew  a  strong  gale  the  greater  part  of  last  night ; 
but  moderated  at  daybreak,  when  we  crossed  to  the  north  side, 
and  commenced  the  portage,  which  we  finished  in  two  pauses. 
We  purchased  twenty  dogs  for  the  kettle.  None  of  the  natives 
who  came  to  us  were  armed,  and  we  never  observed  them  so 
tranquil.  Our  number,  however,  was  sufficient  to  ensure  us  a 
respectful  reception  among  any  single  tribe  of  the  Columbia. 
Mr.  Mackenzie  wrote  a  letter  here  to  Fort  George,  which  he 
intrusted  to  one  of  the  chiefs,  who  promised  to  have  it  safely 
conveyed  to  its  destination.  On  quitting  this  place  we  dis- 
tributed a  quantity  of  leaf-tobacco  among  the  Indians,  who 
crowded  round  the  canoes,  eagerly  expecting  this  last  act  of  our 
fHendship.    It  was  past  eleven  when  we  embarked.    We  iMd 


I 


EXFEninOIl   CONTINUBD. 


239 


a  strong  breeze  in  our  favour  all  day,  and  passed  several  bad 
rapids.  Encamped  late,  a  short  distance  above  John  Day's 
River ;  so  called  from  its  having  been  the  place  at  which  that 
hunter  was  attacked. 

We  had  a  strong  aft  breeze  during  the  greater  part  of  the  27th, 
which  enabled  us  to  go  a  la  voile.  Purchased  seven  horses,  mod- 
erately cheap,  from  a  party  of  Shyatogoes  and  Wallah  Wallahs, 
who  followed  us  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  and  encamped  with 
us  at  night. 

28th.  Embarked  at  the  usual  hour  with  a  slight  aft  wind : 
about  noon,  it  inci'eased  to  a  double-reefed  topsail  gale,  which 
again  fell  away  at  four  lo  a  gentle  breeze.  Saw  veiy  few 
Indians,  and  encamped  at  six :  m.  a  little  below  the  Grand  Rapid, 
on  the  south  side.  The  weather  on  the  29th  was  clear,  and  the 
wind  favourable.  We  passed  the  Grand  Rapid  at  two  p.  m. 
without  injuring  a  canoe,  and  had  a  fine  breeze  all  the  afternoon. 
Shortly  after  sunset  we  made  our  beds  a  little  above  the  Wal- 
lah Wallah  River.  Tom  Tappam  the  chief,  and  several  of  his 
tribe,  visited  us,  and  promised  to  trade  some  horses. 

We  slept  until  nine  on  the  morning  of  the  30th,  and  began 
redividing  and  redistributing  the  men  and  baggage  for  Mr. 
Mackenzie's  tour  lo  the  Snoshone  Indians.  We  purchased 
nine  horses  from  Tom  Tappam,  and  gave  for  each  goods  to  the 
value  of  seven  beaver  skins,  by  the  north-west  tariif.  The 
weather  during  the  day  was  rather  warm  and  boisterous. 

Thursday,  1st  of  May.  Left  the  Wallah  Wallahs  after  break- 
fast, with  a  slight  breeze.  Between  twelve  and  one  we  put 
ashore  at  the  mouth  of  Lewis  River,  where  we  took  an  early 
dinner :  after  which  Mr.  Mackenzie,  with  twenty-two  men  and 
three  canoes,  left  us  under  a  salute  of  three  cheers.  We  con- 
tinued on,  up  the  Columbia,  and  encamped  after  sunset  two 
miles  above  the  Yackaman  River.  Passed  a  few  Indians,  from 
whom  we  traded  one  horse.  It  blew  pretty  fresh  during  the 
day. 

Nothing  particular  occurred  on  the  2d.  The  weather  was 
warm,  and  we  encamped  near  ihe  beginning  of  the  marl-banks, 
called  by  the  Canadians,  from  their  colour,  les  Terres  Jaunes. 

The  3d  was  equally  devoid  of  interest.  The  weather  was 
rather  windy;  and  we  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  Priest's 
Rapid.    We  saw  none  of  the  natives  for  the  last  two  days. 

After  breakfast  on  the  morning  of  the  4th,  the  party  who 
were  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains  bid  adieu  to  the  load^'d  canoes 
and  the  gentlemen  of  the  Columbia.  It  consisted  of  Messrs. 
Bethune,  M'Dougal,  Joseph  M'Gillivray,  Alexander  M'Tavish, 
and  myself;  with  sixteen  men,  Holmes  the  tailor,  and  the  boy 


I 


340 


R£b<CUE  FROM  DROWNINO — ^HIOH  FLOODS. 


I.  ! 


Perrault,  in  two  canoes.    Encamped  about  three  leagues  below 
Pacquin's  Rapid.    Fine  weather  all  day. 

5tn.  Breakfasted  at  the  above  rapid ;  at  which  we  were 
constrained  to  unload  part  of  the  lading,  and  about  noon  arrived 
at  the  portage  of  the  Rocky  Island  Rapid. 

Wlule  Gingras  and  Landrevill  3  were  getting  one  of  the  canoes 
up  the  rapid,  the  latter  made  a  false  stroke  of  nis  pole,  by  which 
it  missed  ^^ottom,  and  the  canoe  was  upset  in  the  middle  of  the 
waves.  Gingras  held  fast  by  the  bars  until  it  was  drawn  into 
an  eddy,  when  he  found  bottom,  and  got  ashore.  In  the  mean 
time  eight  men  leaped  into  the  other  canoe,  and  instantly  pushed 
to  the  assistance  of  Landreville,  who  was  for  a  couple  of  minutes 
invisible  ;  when  at  length,  appearing  above  the  surface  of  the 
water,  they  seized  him  by  the  hair,  and  drew  him  on  board 
nearly  lifeless.  All  our  baggage  was  subsequently  picked  up ; 
and  we  remained  here  the  remainder  of  the  day  to  dry  it  and 
repair  the  canoes.  A  few  poor  Indians  visited  us.  They  had 
no  provisions  to  t  'ade,  and  appeared  to  be  more  in  want  of  food 
and  clothing  than  any  I  had  ever  seen.  One  old  woman  in  par- 
ticular was  completely  naked,  and  presented  a  most  disgusting 
appearance. 

Nothing  of  consequence  occurred  on  the  6th  or  7th ;  and 
about  sunset  on  the  8th,  we  reached  Oakinagan  Fort,  where  we 
passed  the  night. 

At  four  p.  M.  we  bid  adieu  to  Oakinagan,  havinc  previously 
killed  two  horses,  the  flesh  of  which  we  took  with  us.  En- 
camped a  short  distance  above  the  road  leading  to  Spokan 
House.  The  weather,  for  the  last  few  days,  was  remarkably 
mild.  It  changed,  however,  on  the  10th  ;  on  which  day  we  had 
incessant  rain.  We  encamped  three  leagues  above  la  Rapide 
d'lgnace. 

On  Sunday  the  11th  we  embarked  at  daybreak.  The  late 
rain  gave  the  country  a  most  refreshing  appearance :  and  along 
the  banks  of  the  river  we  pulled  a  quantity  of  small  wild  onions, 
which  grew  in  great  abundance,  both  among  the  rocks  and  in 
the  low  bottoms.  Encamped  five  miles  below  the  entrance  of 
Si  ipoil  River,  a  small  stream  which  falls  into  the  Columbia 
from  the  north.    Weather  rather  sultry. 

The  men  had  hard  work  on  the  12th.  Owing  to  the  sudden 
rise  of  the  water,  caused  by  the  late  rain  and  melting  of  the 
snows,  we  were  obliged  to  disembark  several  times  during  the 
day,  to  allow  the  canoes  to  be  dragged  up  with  lines.  Encamped 
opposite  the  entrance  to  Spokan  River.  The  country  from  Oak- 
inagan to  this  place  is  quite  devoid  of  wood,  but  the  banks  of 
the  river  are  bold,  and  in  many  places  rocky.    This  naturally 


m 


UIGH   FLOODS. 


241 


contracts  the  river  into  a  more  narrow  compass,  and  makes  the 
current  much  more  difficult  to  stem. 

We  began,  the  morning  of  the  13th,  by  making  a  portage 
above  our  encampment ;  after  vrhich  we  breakfasted,  and  pur- 
sued our  route.  Vie  had  a  strong  smooth  current  all  day,  and 
encamped  on  the  south  side  a  few  leagues  below  the  Grand 
Rapid.  From  Spokan  River  upwards,  the  banks  of  the  Colum- 
bia are  rather  thickly  wooded,  and  present  a  very  picturesque 
appearance.  There  are  also  several  rich  bottoms  of  red  and 
white  clover,  and  some  aromatic  herbs. 

Wasting;  then-  Bweetness  on  the  desert  air. 

Met  a  couple  of  families  of  poor  beggarly  Indians.    Very  sultry 
weather  all  day. 

14th.  On  arriving  at  the  Grand  Rapid  we  were  forced  to 
carry  the  canoes,  as  well  as  the  baggage,  to  the  upper  end. 
This  occupied  the  greater  portion  of  the  day,  and  v/e  did  not 
finish  it  before  three  p.  m.  At  four  we  arrived  at  the  Great 
Kettle  Falls,  the  portage  of  which  we  completed  at  sunset 
Encamped  at  the  upper  end  of  the  falls ;  shortly  after  which  an 
Indian  arrived  from  Spokan  House  with  letters  from  Mr. 
McDonald,  which  contained  no  intelligence  of  interest. 

Embarked  at  the  usual  hour,  on  the  15th,  and  made  pretty 
good  way  until  one  p.  m.,  when  we  arrived  at  a  particular  part 
of  the  river  called  the  First  Dalles,  or  narrows,  above  the 
Kettle  Falls,  where  the  channel  is  confined  between  a  range  of 
high  and  dangerous  rocks,  ne  ^..ly  a  mile  in  extent ;  the  whole  of 
which  distance  the  men  were  obliged  to  carry  the  canoes  and 
baggage.  Encamped  at  la  Riviire  de  Belters,  so  called  from 
some  mountain  sheep  having  been  killed  near  the  spot  by  our 
hunters  some  years  before.  The  Indians  assert  that  no  rattle- 
snakes are  to  be  found  on  either  bank  of  the  Columbia  above 
this  river ;  and  all  our  men,  who  had  been  previously  in  the  em- 
ployment of  the  Company,  hunting  in  that  part,  fully  corrobo- 
rated this  statement.  The  Riviere  de  Beliers  comes  from  the 
north-west. 

About  seven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  16th  we  passed 
the  mouth  of  the  Flat-head  "iver,  whicii  falls  into  the  Columbia 
over  a  foaming  cascade,  caused  by  a  large  collection  of  immense 
rocks,  which  choke  up  the  entrance.  During  the  day  we  passed 
a  number  of  smail  rivers,  which,  owing  to  the  melting  of  the 
snow,  caused  by  the  excessive  heat,  had  been  swollen  into 
torrents.  The  force  of  the  current  rushing  out  from  these 
rivers  repeatedly  drove  the  canoes  back  with  great  violence, 
and  it  required  all  the  skill  and  strength  of  our  men  to  pass 

Gg 


043 


CAPTVR3   OF   A   BEAR. 


them.  Encamped  late,  near  M'Gillivray's  River,  a  fine  bold 
stream,  ^hich  takes  its  rise  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  run- 
nins  in  nearly  a  north-east  direction,  through  tiie  Cootonias 
lands,  here  joins  the  Columbia.  A  refreshing  breeze  from  the 
north  sprung  up  in  the  evening.  The  country  on  each  side, 
from  the  Kettle  Falls  to  this  place,  is  thickly  wooded,  principally 
with  pine,  spruce,  and  small  birch.  The  northern  shore  is 
rather  low ;  but  the  south  side  presents  a  bold  rocky  appear- 
ance. About  an  hour  before  we  encamped  we  observed  a 
large  black  bear  in  the  act  of  «wimming  across  the  river,  which 
Mr.  M'Gillivray  wounded.  The  enraged  animal  instantly 
changed  its  course  downwards,  and  came  in  contact  with  our 
canoe,  into  which  it  attempted  to  get,  by  seizing  the  gunwale 
with  its  fore-paws.  This  nearly  upset  us;  but  the  foreman 
aimed  a  well-directed  blow  at  his  head  with  his  pole,  which  com- 
pletely stunned  it,  and  we  succeeded  in  hauling  it  on  board.  It 
was  in  rather  good  condition,  and  proved  a  welcome  and  unex- 
pected treat. 

17th.  Set  off  a  little  before  sunrise ;  and  about  an  hour  after- 
Ward  entered  the  first  lake  formed  by  the  Tolumbia.  It  is 
between  eleven  and  twelve  leagues  long,  and  about  one  and  a 
half  in  breadth  ;  the  current  smooth  and  steady,  and  pretty  free 
from  snags  or  sunken  trees.  The  shores  are  bold  and  well 
wooded  with  a  variety  of  timber  of  fine  size  ;  and  in  the  dis- 
tance we  first  caught  a  view  of  the  most  western  chain  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  covered  with  snow.  A  head-wind,  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  day,  considerably  retarded  our  progress  ; 
and  we  encamped  late,  near  the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  where  a 
few  Indians  visited  us.  They  appeared  to  be  very  poor,  and 
brought  about  a  dozen  beaver-skins  to  trade,  which  we  told 
them  we  could  not  purchase,  as  we  were  obliged  to  cross  the 
mountains ;  but  that  our  party,  going  downwards  in  the  autumn, 
would  stop  a  few  days  with  them,  and  trade  all  the  skins  they 
had.  They  were  rather  disappointed  ;  but  a  little  tobacco, 
and  some  trifling  presents,  sent  them  away  in  good  humour. 

Shortly  after,  embarking  on  the  morning  of  the  I8th,  we  left 
the  lake,  5fid  entered  that  part  of  the  river  called  the  Straits, 
which  separates  the  upper  from  the  lower  lake.  It  is  only 
a  few  miles  in  length,  and  quickly  brought  us  to  the  upper  lake, 
which  is  not  so  long  as  the  first.  The  high  hills  in  its  immediate 
'vicinity  were  covered  with  snow,  the  chilling  influence  of  which 
we  sensibly  experienced  by  the  cold  blasts  from  shore.  En- 
camped at  sunset  at  the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  on  a  fine  sandy 
beach.  During  the  day  we  struck  on  two  sandbanks,  and 
wo.re  slightly  i..jured  by  a  sunken  tree.     Saw  no  Indians. 

19th,     About  two  miles  above  our  encampment  of  last  night 


DIFFICULTIES   IN   NAVIOATION. 


243 


IS 


the  Columbia  becomes  very  narrow,  with  steep  and  thickly 
wooded  banks,  covered  \"ith  immense  quantities  of  fallen  trees. 
The  current  is  very  stroi  t{,  and,  owing  to  the  great  height  of 
the  water,  the  men  at  inter 'ills  had  scarcely  any  beach  on  which 
to  walk  in  dragging  up  the  canoes.  Our  progress  was  conse- 
quently slow ;  and  we  put  ashore  for  the  night  about  fifleen 
miles  above  tlie  lake. 

At  nine  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  20th  we  reached  the 
Second  Dalles,  or  narrows,  which  are  formed  by  a  contraction 
of  the  channel  of  the  river  into  a  very  small  compass.  There 
are  high  and  slippery  rocks  on  each  side,  which  makes  it  a  work 
of  great  danger  and  difficulty  to  pass  them.  The  baggage  vrf.a 
all  carried  by  the  men,  and  the  cnnoes  were  towed  up  with 
strong  lines,  after  being  in  great  danger  of  filling  from  the  fright- 
ful whirlpools  close  along  the  shore.  The  weather  became 
much  cooler  from  the  proximity  of  the  mountains.  Several 
patches  of  snow  were  observable  on  the  beach  during  the  day, 
fmd  towards  evening  some  rain  fell. 

From  dawn  of  day  until  noon  on  the  2 1st  we  did  not  make 
three  miles,  owing  to  the  impetuosity  of  the  current,  the  shel- 
ving banks,  and  the  extreme  weakness  of  our  men,  several  of 
whom  were  knocked  up.  We  were  detained  at  one  place  up- 
wards of  four  hours  to  repair  our  shattered  canoes,  and  en- 
camped about  six  o'clock  on  a  low  gravelly  point.  We  had 
several  smart  showers  during  the  afternoon. 

22d.  About  two  p.  m.  arrived  at  a  place  called  the  Upper 
Dalles,  where  the  river  is  again  confined  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance between  a  line  of  high  slippery  rocks.  Got  about  half 
way  through  this  channel,  and  stopped  for  the  night  in  a  small 
nook  formed  by  the  rocks,  on  which  we  lay  scattered  and  ex- 
posed to  severe  rain  during  the  night. 

We  rose  wet  and  unrefreshed  on  the  morning  of  the  23d, 
and  in  five  hours  passed  the  Dalles,  the  upper  pr.rt  of  which 
consists  of  a  chain  of  whirlpools,  which  compelled  ua  to  carry 
both  canoes  and  baggage  some  distance  over  tho  rocks ;  in  the 
execution  of  which  duty,  some  of  the  men  narrowly  escaped 
with  their  lives.  Those  who  car  ;i  our  canoe,  from  mere  ex- 
haustion fell  several  times,  by  which  it  was  much  damaged ; 
and  we  were  detained  until  3  p.  h.  to  get  it  repaired.  Encamped 
at  dusk  on  a  sandy  beach,  for  which  we  had  been  some  time  on 
the  look-out.  The  rain  continued  during  the  evening  and  the 
night  to  pour  down  in  torrents. 

Our  progress  on  the  24th  was  equally  slow.  The  various 
tributary  streams  which  we  passed  on  this  and  the  last  two  days, 
and  which  take  their  rise  from  the  surroundmg  mountains,  had 
by  the  recent  rains  been  swollen  into  torrents,  the  waters  of 


,    i 


244 


EXIIAV8TED   STATE   OF  THE   MEN. 


m 


ki 


m 


which,  as  they  rushed  with  headlong  force  into  the  Columbia, 
repeatedly  drove  ua  back  with  irresistible  strencth,  and  at  times 
we  were  in  danger  of  filling.  On  two  occasions,  where  the 
opposite  shore  of  the  Columbia  consisted  of  perpendicular  rocks, 
we  were  obliged,  after  various  fruitless  attempts  to  pass  the 
minor  streams,  to  unload  and  carry  the  canoes  and  baggage  some 
distance  along  the  banks  until  we  reached  a  smooth  space  of 
current,  when  we  crossed,  and  by  that  means  surmounted  the 
difficulties  of  their  respective  embouchures.  It  rained  on  us 
all  the  afternoon. 

25th.  Nothing  of  importance  occurred  on  this  day  to  vary 
the  disagreeable  tedium  of  our  journey.  The  foreman,  steers- 
man, and  four  of  the  middlemen  of  our  canoe  were  quite  knocked 
up,  while  those  in  the  other  canoe  were  comparatively  strong 
and  healthy : — indeed  the  distribution  of  the  men  was  grossly 
partial,  and  was  productive  in  the  sequel  of  the  most  deplorable 
consequences.  It  rained  hard  all  day ;  and  on  retiring  to  rest 
we  had  not  a  dry  article  of  covering  about  us. 

On  the  26tli  we  only  made  three  miles,  in  the  course  of  which 
our  canoe  filled  in  a  dangerous  rapid,  and  we  were  near  perish- 
ing. We  succeeded  however  in  gaining  a  low  stony  island,  on 
which  there  was  no  wood  to  light  a  fire :  our  pemmican  was 
completely  damaged  by  the  late  accident ;  and,  as  a  climax  to 
our  misery,  it  rained  incessantly  the  whole  day. 

The  river  here  opened  out  to  a  considerable  breadth,  and  in 
some  places  was  very  shallow.  The  Rocky  Mountain  portage 
at  which  we  were  to  leave  our  canoes  appeared  in  sight,  and 
was  not  more  than  three  miles  distant.  As  we  threw  our  jaded 
bodies  on  our  stony  couch  this  evening,  we  most  truly  experi- 
enced that 

Wearinesi  can  more  upon  the  flint, 

When  restive  sloth  makes  the  down-pillow  hard. 

We  rose  at  the  usual  hour  on  the  27th,  and  at  nine  a.  m.  ar- 
rived at  the  entrance  of  Canoe  River,  where  the  portage  com- 
mences, and  with  indescribable  pleasure  we  bade  h  final  adieu 
to  our  crazy  battered  canoe.  Messrs.  M'Dougall  and  Bethune 
had  reached  it  the  day  before,  and  had  almost  despaired  of 
seeing  us.  Finding  so  many  of  our  men  invalids,  those  gentle- 
men deemed  .t  imprudent  to  bring  them  across  the  mountains,  the 
fatigues  of  which  they  would  not  be  able  to  encounter.  Six 
Canadians,  and  Holmes  the  English  ailor,  were  therefore  sent 
back  in  the  best  canoe  to  Spokan  House.  Out  of  the  seven 
men,  two  only  were  able  to  work ;  but,  as  the  current  was  in 
their  favour,  it  was  hoped  they  would  arrive  in  three  days  at  the 


I 


F 
t 
i 
t 


DREADFUL   DETAIL. 


245 


Kettle  Falls,  from  whence  they  could  cosily  reach  Spokan.  As 
our  stock  of  provisions  was  very  scanty,  we  could  only  spare 
them  enough  for  tlie  above  period.  On  separating  from  their 
comrades,  some  of  them  appeared  dejected  and  melancholy, 
and  foreboded  that  they  would  never  see  Canada  again.  Their 
prophecy,  alas  I  was  but  too  true.* 

*  I  did  not  hear  the  fate  of  this  unfortunate  partj  until  three  yean  a(lev'« 
ward.  The  folluwing  is  the  melancholy  detail.  On  leaving  the  Rocky 
Mountaina,  thry  drove  rapidly  dowri  the  current  until  they  arrived  at  the  Up« 
per  Dalles  or  narrows,  where  they  were  oblif^od  to  disembark.  A  cod-line 
was  made  fast  to  the  stern  of  the  canoe,  while  two  men  preceded  it  along  the 
banks  with  po  es  to  keep  it  from  striking  against  the  rocks.  It  had  not  de- 
scended mor  than  half  the  distance,  when  it  was  caught  in  a  strong  whirl- 
pool, and  the  lino  snapped.  The  canoe  for  a  moment  disappeared  in  the  vor- 
tex ;  on  eme'ging  from  which,  it  was  carried  by  the  irresistible  forco  of  the 
current  to  t  le  opposite  side,  and  dashed  to  pieces  against  the  rocks.  They 
had  not  the  prudence  to  take  out  either  their  blankets  or  small  quantity  of 
provisions,  vhich  were  of  course  all  lost.  Here  then  the  poor  fellows  found 
themselves  loprivod  of  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  at  a  period  of  the  year 
in  which  it  was  impossible  *o  procure  any  wild  fruit  or  roots.  To  return  to 
the  mountains  was  impossible,  and  their  only  chance  of  preservation  was  to 
proceed  downwards,  and  to  keep  as  near  the  banks  of  the  river  as  circum- 
stances would  permit.  The  continual  rising  of  the  water  had  completely  inun- 
dated the  beach,  iv  consequence  of  which,  they  were  compelled  to  forco  their 
way  through  an  alm^.  'mpervious  forest,  the  ground  of  which  was  covered 
with  a  strong  growth  of  prickly  underwood.  Their  only  nourishment  was 
water ;  owing  to  which,  and  their  wenkness  from  fatigue  and  ill  health,  their 
progress  was  necessarily  slow.  On  the  third  day  poor  Ma^on  died,  and  hie 
surviving  comrades,  though  unconscious  how  ..oon  they  might  bo  called  on  to 
follow  him,  determined  to  keep  off  the  fatal  moment  as  long  as  possible.  They 
therefore. divided  his  remains  in  equal  parts  between  them,  on  which  they 
subsisted  fur  some  days.  From  the  swollen  state  of  their  feet  their  daily 
progress  did  not  exceed  two  or  three  miles.  Holmes,  the  tailor,  shortly  fol- 
lowed Ma^on,  and  they  continued  for  some  time  longer  to  sustain  life  on  hie 
emaciated  body.  It  would  be  a  painful  repetition  to  detail  the  individual  death 
of  each  man.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  in  a  little  time,  of  the  seven  men,  two 
only,  named  La  Pierre  and  Dubois,  remained  alive.  La  Pierre  was  subse- 
quently found  on  the  borders  of  the  upper  lake  of  the  Columbia  by  two  Indiana 
who  were  coasting  it  in  a  canoe.  They  took  him  on  board,  and  brought  him 
to  the  Kettle  Falls,  from  whence  he  was  conducted  to  Spokan  House. 

He  stated  that,  after  the  death  of  the  fifth  man  of  the  party,  Dubois  and  he 
continued  for  some  days  at  the  spot  where  he  had  ended  his  sufferings,  and  on 
quitting  it  they  loaded  themselves  with  as  much  of  his  flesh  as  they  could  carry; 
thtt  with  this  they  succeeded  in  reaching  the  upper  lake,  round  the  shores 
of  which  they  wandered  for  some  time  in  vain  in  search  of  Indians ;  that 
their  horrid  food  at  length  became  exhausted,  and  they  were  again  reduced 
to  the  prospect  of  starvation  :  that  on  the  second  nifht  after  their  last  meal, 
he  (La  Pierre)  observed  something  suspicious  in  Wie  conduct  of  Dubois, 
which  induced  him  to  be  on  his  guard  ;  and  that  shortly  after  they  had  lain 
down  for  the  night,  and  while  he  feigned  sleep  he  observed  Dubois  cautiously 
opening  his  clasp  knife,  with  which  he  sprung  on  him,  and  inflicted  on  his 
hand  the  blov|c  that  was  evidently  intended  for  his  neck.  A  silent  and  despe- 
rate conflict  followed,  in  which,  after  severe  struggling.  La  Pierre  succeeded 
in  wrestinfT  the  knife  from  his  antagonist,  and  having  no  other  resource  left, 
he  was  obli^t  i1  in  self-defence  to  cut  Dubois's  throat ;  and  that  a  few  days  after- 
ward he  was  discovered  by  the  Indians  as  before  mentioned.     Thus  far 


m 


346 


WILD   AND   IMPREMIVB    ICBNBRY. 


CHAPTER  XXIV.  .  ,_: 

Canoe  Valley  and  Rivor — appearance  of  mountain* — M'Cillivra/'a  Rock— 
DangerouH  aituatiun  of  party  on  a  raft — Arrive  at  Rocky  Mountain  Houie 
— Volcanic  appearances — Animal*,  Sic. — Indian  tradition  respecting  Mam- 
moth—Difference in  Mize  of  trooe. 

Our  baggage  and  provisions  were  divided  between  the  nine 
remaining  men,  who  m  consequence  of  the  number  we  had  sent 
back,  were  obhged  to  carry  about  ninety  pounds  weight  each, 
besides  their  own  kits,  which  in  such  cases  are  never  taken  into 
consideration. 

Canoe  River,  which  here  joins  the  Columbia,  is  one  of  its 
principal  sources,  and  is  situated  in  lat.'52°  7'  9"  N.  In  the  dry 
season,  it  is  broad,  but  very  shallow,  and  near  its  entrance  spreads 
over  several  sandy  shoals. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th  of  May,  at  ten  o'clock  we  set  off 
on  foot  alonj^  the  banks  of  Canoe  River,  which  winds  its  way 
through  a  wide  and  cheerless  valley.  We  had  not  proceeded 
far  when  we  found  it  impossible,  from  the  great  rise  of  the 
water,  to  pass  the  ordinary  fords.  It  appeared  like  a  lake,  and 
completely  set  at  naught  the  topographical  knowledge  of  our 
guide.  This  obliged  us  to  strike  into  the  woods,  our  progress 
through  which  was  extremely  fatiguing,  and  at  three  p.  m.  we 
bivouacked  about  two  miles  beyond  a  long  woody  point,  which 
stretches  some  distance  across  the  valley.  The  weather  was 
cloudy  all  day,  with  slight  showers,  which,  during  the  night, 
increased  to  heavy  rain,  from  which  we  had  no  shelter. 

We  rose  early  on  the  morning  of  the  29th  of  May,  in  no  very 
enviable  situation.  A  thick  mist  still  enveloped  us,  and  rendered 
the  awful  solitude  of  this  gloomy  valley  peculiarly  impressive. 
It  appeared  never  to  have  been  trodden  by  the  foot  of  man, 
until  the  enterprising  spirit  of  British  commerce,  after  having 
forced  its  way  over  the  everlasting  snows  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, penetrated  into  the  anti-social  glen,  and  from  thence  en- 
tered the  mighty  waters  of  the  Columbia.    As  the  mists  gradu- 

nothing  at  first  appeared  to  impugn  the  veracity  of  hia  statement ;  but  some 
other  natives  subsequently  found  the  remains  of  two  of  the  party  near  those  of 
Dubois,  mangled  in  such  a  manner  as  to  induce  them  to  think  that  they  had 
been  murdered  ;  and  as  La  Pierre's  story  was  by  no  means  coteistent  in  many 
of  its  details,  the  proprietors  judged  it  advisable  to  transmit  him  to  Canada 
for  trial.  Only  one  Indian  attended  ;  but  as  the  testimony  against  him  was 
merely  circumstantial,  and  unsupported  by  corroborating  evulence,  he  was 
acquitted. 


DANOBRova  rouo. 


947 


ally  ascended  into  the  higher  regions,  we  obtained  a  more 
distinct  view  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  On  the  northern  side, 
tiers  of  mountuins,  thickly  covered  with  large  pine  and  cedar, 
towered  to  an  immeasurable  height;  while  the  southern  pre- 
sented  dark  perpendicular  rocks  of  immense  altitude,  partially 
covered  with  moss,  stunted  pine,  &c.,  over  which  at  intervals 
cascades  of  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet  high  forced  u  passage 
to  swell  the  torrent  below.  The  sun,  except  in  the  intervals  be- 
tween  the  rocks,  was  invisible ;  and  with  the  exception  of  our 
own  party,  no  trace  of  animated  nature  could  be  diitinguished 
ID  this  magnificent  solitude. 

^'  I  About  eleven  a.  m.  we  passed  a  second  woody  point,  which 
runs  into  the  valley  from  the  north  side ;  and  at  two  p,  m.  stop, 
ped  for  the  remainder  of  the  day.  The  n  en  were  much  fatigued 
from  their  heavy  loads,  and  some  of  the  in  were  hardly  able  to 
proceed. 

We  set  off  at  daybreak  on  the  30th,  sometimes  skirting,  and 
at  others  fording  the  river.  At  seven  a.  m.  we  arrived  at  a  par- 
ticular  part  called  the  grande  traverse,  owing  to  its  great  depth 
and  breadth.  To  cross  this  was  a  measure  of  much  danger. 
We  all  advanced  in  line,  the  tallest  and  strongest  mixed  alter- 
nately with  the  lowest,  each  ho' ling  tlie  other  firmly  by  the 
hand.  This  arrangement  was  [)uculiarly  necessary ;  for  during 
our  progress  several  of  the  smaller  men  were  swept  ofT  their 
legs  by  the  force  of  the  current,  and  would  inevitably  have  per- 
ished, but  for  the  support  they  derived  f"om  their  stronger 
brethren.  We  effected  the  passage  between  eight  and  nine, 
when  we  were  obliged  to  stop  and  dry  our  clothes,  and  break- 
fast. Afler  this,  which  did  not  occupy  much  time,  w  i  proceeded 
on,  and  about  noon  encamped  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
grande  cdte,  or  principal  hil  which  we  have  to  ascend  in  passing 
from  the  Columbia. — Weather  charming  all  day. 

Shortly  afler  dawn  on  the  morning  of  the  31st  we  commenced 
the  steep  ascent  of  the  first  great  hill.  At  its  base  were  cedar 
and  pine  trees  of  enormous  magnitude ;  but,  in  proportion  as 
we  ascended,  they  decreased  in  size,  and  at  the  summit  of  the 
hill  their  appearance  was  quite  dwarfish.  We  completed  the 
ascent  in  about  four  hours  and  a  half,  and  did  not  find  it  so  diffi- 
cult as  we  had  anticipated.  This  however  may  be  attributed  to 
our  having  commenced  the  task  early  in  the  morning. 

A  short  time  before  we  reached  the  summit,  and  from  thence 
to  the  level  of  the  table  land,  our  progress  lay  through  a  wilder- 
ness of  deep  snow,  which  we  had  to  beat  down  to  form  a  path- 
way for  the  loaded  men.  This  work,  owing  to  the  holes  into 
which  several  of  the  party  occasionally  fell,  was  both  fatiguing 
and  dangerous. 


i     '^ 


348 


MOUNTAINS   AMD  GLACIERS. 


4 


H 

if 


if    . 


il 


'!  i    :'' 


\- 


At  one  p.  M.  we  arrived  at  two  small  lakes,  between  which  wo 
encamped.  They  are  only  a  few  hundred  feet  each  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  the  distance  between  them  does  not  exceed  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  feet.  They  lie  on  the  most  level  part  of  the  height 
of  land,  and  are  situated  between  an  immense  cut  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  From  them  two  rivers  take  their  rise,  which  pursue 
different  courses,  .  nd  fall  into  separate  oceans  ;  the  first  winds 
into  the  valley  we  had  lately  left,  and,  after  joining  the  upper 
part  of  the  Columbia,  empties  itself  into  the  North  Pacific; 
while  the  other,  called  the  Rocky  Mountain  River,  a  branch  of 
the  Athabasca,  follows  first  an  eastern  and  then  a  northern  course, 
until  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Vnjiga  or  Feace  River.  This 
falls  into  Great  Slave  Lake,  the  waters  of  which  are  ultimately 
carried  byM'Kenzie's  River  to  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

The  country  round  our  encampment  presented  the  wildest 
and  most  terrifi-:  appearance  of  desolation  that  can  be  well  ima- 
gined. The  suiJ  shining  on  a  range  of  stupendous  glaciers,  threw 
a  chilling  brightness  over  the  chaotic  mass  of  rocks,  ice,  and 
snow,  by  which  we  were  surrounded.  Close  to  our  encamp- 
ment one  gigantic  mountain  of  a  conical  form  towered  majes- 
tically into  the  clouds  far  above  the  others,*  while  at  intervals 
the  interest  of  the  scene  was  heightened  by  the  rumbling  of  a 
descending  avalanche  ;  wiiich,  after  being  detached  from  its  bed 
of  centuries,  increased  in  bulk  in  its  headlong  career  downwards, 
until  it  burst  with  a  frightful  crash,  more  resembling  the  explo- 
sion of  a  maga^iine  than  the  dispersion  of  a  mass  of  snow. 

One  of  our  roughspun  unsophisticated  Canadians,  after  gazing 
upwards  for  some  time  in  silent  wonder,  exclaimed  with  much 
vehemence,  "  I'll  take  my  oath,  my  dear  friends,  that  God  Al- 
mighty never  made  such  a  place  !" 

Sunday,  June  1.  Set  off  about  an  hour  before  daybreak  in 
deep  snow ;  and  at  nine  o'clock,  having  arrived  at  its  termination, 
we  stopped  to  breakfast.  For  the  last  few  miles  this  lofty  val- 
ley widens  considerably,  and  permits  the  sun  to  act  with  greater 
effect,  in  consequence  of  which  the  sno  '  quickly  disappears  be- 
neath its  all-dissolving  influence.  At  eleven  a.  m.  we  reached  a 
charming  spot  of  rich  meadow  ground  called  by  our  hunters  fen- 
campement  du  fusil,  in  which  we  found  five  of  the  Company's 
horses  quietly  grazing.  Their  harness  was  placed  in  a  conspi- 
cuous situation  adjoining  a  large  fire,  the  remains  of  which  were 
burning  at  the  period  of  our  arrival.  These  horses  had  been 
sent  to  meet  us  from  our  establishment  at  the  east  end  of  the 
mountains,  and,  from  the  fresh  traces  about  the  fire,  we  judged 

*  This  is  called  M'Gillivray's  Rock,  in  konour  of  the  Iftte  Mr.  Wm.  M'Gil- 
livray,  a  principal  director  of  the  Company. 


RAFT   CARRIED  INTO  THE   lUf  ID. 


in 


D: 


that  the  persons  to  whose  care  they  had  been  intrusted  had  only 
left  that  morning.  They  proved  an  acceptable  relief  to  out 
poor  men,  who  quickly  transferred  to  them  their  loads ;  uftov 
which  we  resumed  our  Journey  with  great  spirits,  and  encamped 
ftt  four  p.  M.  on  the  banks  of  the  mountain  stream,  which  for  the 
last  few  leagues  begins  to  assume  the  appearance  of  an  import- 
ant river. 

Took  advantage  of  the  refreshing  coolness  of  the  morning  of 
the  2d,  and  advanced  some  miles  beiTore  sunrise.  Stopped 
twice  during  the  day  to  refresh  the  horses,  and  at  two  p.  m., 
after  passing  through  a  thick  wood  of  small  pine  a  few  miles  in 
length,  we  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  river,  at 
a  particular  spot  called  the  Traverse  du  Trou,  where  it  was  ne- 
cessary for  our  party  to  cross.  All  hands  immediately  set  about 
preparing  a  raft,  which  was  quickly  constructed.  The  river  at 
the  crossing-place  was  between  three  and  four  hundred  yards 
wide,  with  a  gentle  current  running  smoothly  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  length,  when  it  is  broken  by  a  broad  and  rather  shal- 
low rapid.  The  horses  were  first  sent  over,  and  gained  the  op- 
posite bank  in  safety.  Four  men  then  embarked  on  the  raft 
with  part  of  the  baggage ;  but  owing  to  their  having  lost  bottom 
too  soon  with  their  poles,  the  raft  was  carried  in  a  few  minutes 
into  the  rapid,  where  it  became  entangled  among  the  rocks. 
The  place  was  fortunately  shallow,  and  they  succeeded  after 
some  difficulty  in  gaining  the  shore.  The  raft  was  lost,  and  we 
were  therefore  obliged  to  construct  another.  I  embarked  on  it 
in  company  with  Messrs.  M'Gillivray  and  M'Dougall,  Gingras  the 
guide,  Louis,  an  Iroquois  Indian,  and  a  half-breed  lad  named  Per- 
rault.  We  took  with  us  the  remainder  of  the  baggage.  After 
pushing  off,  we  poled  away  with  might  and  main,  and  had  crossed 
two-thirds  of  the  river,  when,  on  the  point  of  entering  an  eddy 
which  would  have  brought  us  out  of  all  danger,  we  lost  bottom 
with  our  poles,  and  were  carried  almost  instantaneously  into  the 
rapid,  through  which  we  were  driven  a  short  distance,  when  we 
were  brought  up  by  the  rocks,  on  which  one  end  of  the  raft 
became  fast.  Gingras  instantly  jumped  over,  and  quickly  gained 
the  shore.  One  of  the  men,  who  had  crossed  over  first,  imme- 
diately came  off  to  us  with  a  line  for  the  purpose  of  trying  to 
secure  the  raft  until  the  baggage  could  be  transported  ashore. 
Having  fastened  one  end,  he  returned,  accompanied  by  Perrault, 
each  carrying  heavy  bundles.  This  however  lightened  the  raft 
so  much  that  it  instantly  swung  round;  the  line,  one  end  of  which 
was  held  by  the  Canadian,  snapped  in  two,  and  before  we  had  time 
to  look  about  us,  we  found  ourselves  again  descending  the  rapid. 
All  hands  immediately  jumped  overboard,  and  seized  ihe  raft  in 
the  hope  of  stopping  its  progress ;  but  the  overpowering  strength 

n  h 


Ml 


850 


CATARACT — ^NARROW   ESCAPE. 


4' 


# 


of  the  current  baffled  all  our  puny  efforts.  We  might  as  Mrell 
have  attempted  to  arrest  the  flight  of  an  eagle,  or  stop  a  canon-ball 
in  its  career.  M'Gillivray,  liouis,  and  I,  after  receiving  some 
severe  contusions,  succeeded  m  regaining  the  raft ;  but  M'Dou- 
gall  parted  company,  and  having  clambered  up  the  sides  of  a 
craggy  rock,  which  was  a  few  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water, 
remained  perched  on  its  summit  for  some  hours,  in  a  most  piti- 
able condition,  from  which  he  was  not  extricated  until  late  in  the 
evening. 

Only  three  of  us  now  remained,  and  we  had  neither  pole  nor 
paddle  by  which  we  could  guide  our  course.  We  quickly 
cleared  the  rapid  ;  but  had  scarcely  time  to  breathe  an  aspira- 
tion of  thanksgiving,  when  we  were  hurried  into  another,  from 
which  we  again  escaped  harmless.  On  emerging  from  this  we 
were  forced  with  inconceivable  rapidity  through  a  succession 
of  cascades  and  rapids,  two  miles  in  extent ;  in  the  course  of 
which,  owing  to  our  repeatedly  striking  on  the  rocks,  the  tim- 
bers began  to  separate.  A  brief  space  of  smooth  water  at 
length  appeared,  and  we  once  more  indulged  a  faint  hope  of 
escape,  when  a  loud  and  roaring  noise  announced  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  a  cataract.  The  current  became  swifter.  1  lOoked 
in  vain  for  relief  to  my  two  companions.  But  neither  the 
active  mind  of  my  friend  M'Gillivray,  ever  fertile  in  resources, 
nor  the  long  experience  of  the  Iroquois,  accustomed  from  his 
infancy  to  similar  scenes,  could  suggest  any  chance  of  escape. 
The  thunders  of  the  cataract  now  dinned  in  our  ears  ;  the  spray 
from  the  boiling  abyss  began  to  envelope  us  ;  and  every  suc- 
ceeding moment  diminished  the  slight  hopes  which  had  hitherto 
occasionally  shot  across  our  bewildered  senses.  An  attempt  to 
describe  my  feelings  would  be  vain.  The  frightful  rapidity 
of  the  current,  joined  to  the  apprehension  of  instant  annihila- 
tion, banished  even  the  recollection  of  "  kindred  home,"  which, 
for  a  moment,  obtruded  itself  on  my  imagination.  With  hope 
fled  despair,  and  in  silent  resignation  we  awaited  our  fate  ;  but 
at  the  moment  when  it  appeared  inevitable,  the  sharp  eye  of 
M'Gillivray  observed  that  the  raft  was  caught  by  a  counter  cur- 
rent immediately  above  the  fall.  He  had  a  small  stick,  with 
which  he  sounded,  and  found  the  depth  did  not  exceed  three 
feet.  He  instantly  jumped  overboard,  followed  by  Louis  and 
myself;  and  with  a  little  exertion  we  succeeded  in  dragging  the 
raft  into  an  eddy,  free  from  the  influence  of  the  great  oody  of 
water,  from  whence  we  easily  brought  it  to  shore  without  the 
loss  of  a  single  article  !  Our  companions  on  shore,  after  we 
had  been  carried  out  of  their  sight,  had  abandoned  all  hopes  of 
ever  seeing  us  again,  and  were  therefore  agreeably  surprised 
at  flnding  us  once  more  safe  on  terra  Jirma. 

Messrs.  Alexander  M'Tavish,  Bethune,  and  four  men,  still  re- 


1 


CON«TnUCTION   OF   RAFTS. 


251 


■R^< 


mained  on  the  western  side,  and  in  consequence  of  the  narrow 
escape  which  our  first  two  parties  had,  they  determined  not  to 
attempt  crossing  in  such  a  dangerous  spot.  Having  loaded  our 
horses,  we  proceeded  about  five  miles  below  the  traverse,  when 
we  encamped.  M'Tavish's  party  passed  the  night  on  the  oppo- 
site bank  in  a  miserable  situation,  being  totally  deprived  of  either 
food  or  covering,  and  without  means  even  to  make  a  fire. 

Started  early  on  the  morning  of  the  3d,  and  after  travelling 
about  four  miles  we  arrived  opposite  the  spot  where  our  friends 
had  passed  the  night.  They  had  no  means  of  joining  us  but  by 
a  raft.  The  river  was  smooth ;  which  circumstance,  strength- 
ened by  the  irrepressible  gnawings  of  hunger,  conquered  their 
dislike  to  that  mode  of  crossing.  Having  neither  axe  nor  line, 
they  collected  as  many  pieces  of  drift-wood  as  they  could  find 
on  the  beach,  which  they  bound  together  by  withes,  after  which 
they  embarked.  The  raft  however  had  scarcely  left  the  shore 
when  it  began  to  give  way,  and  Messrs.  Bethune,  M'Tavish, 
and  two  men  immediately  jumped  off,  and  regained  the  land  at 
the  expense  of  a  good  ducking.  The  other  two  men  however 
succeeded  in  crossing  the  river  on  separate  pieces,  and  joined 
us  in  safety. 

Francois,  a  Creole,  now  volunteered  to  swim  over  on  horse- 
back, and  bring  with  him  an  axe  and  some  line  for  the  purpose 
of  making  a  raft  lower  down.  This  proposition  was  gladly  ae» 
eepted,  and  having  taken  the  strongest  of  our  five  horses,  h© 
plunged  in  and  gained  the  opposite  bank. 

As  Mr.  Bethune  did  not  like  to  venture  a  second  time  at  this 
place,  we  appointed  to  meet  him  at  the  junction  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  with  the  Athabasca  river,  where  we  hoped  he  would 
be  able  to  join  us.  We  then  continued  our  progress,  and  at 
nintJ  A.  M.  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where  it  Joins  the 
Athabasca  ;  and,  to  our  great  surprise,  observed  Mr.  Bethune's 
party  proceeding  at  a  great  distance  down  the  western  bank  of 
the  river.  We  hailed  them,  and  fired  several  shots ;  but  as  they 
paid  no  attention  to  our  signals,  we  imagined  they  were  ac- 
quainted with  a  better  place  to  cross  the  river  than  that  which 
we  had  pointed  out. 

We  therefore  set  all  hands  to  work  to  construct  rafts  for  our 
party.  The  Athabasca  river  at  this  place  was  about  four  hun- 
dred yards  wide  ;  the  current  strong,  but  free  from  rapids,  and 
with  the  exception  of  two  rocks  in  the  centre  of  the  river,  there 
was  no  apparent  danger  to  be  apprehended.  We  remained 
until  one  o'clock,  making  two  rafts,  with  poles  and  paddles 
necessary  for  working  them.  The  horses  were  first  sent  across, 
followed  by  two  men,  after  which  we  embarked  five  on  each 
raft,  and  pushed  off.    I  took  care  not  to  separate  from  my  friend 


95jil 


THE   "OLD  VORT— 'MOUNTAIN   PRAIRIE. 


M'Gillivray  and  the  Iroquois.  After  poling  for  a  few  minutes 
we  lost  bottom,  and  were  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  the  pad- 
dles, with  which  we  worked  on  tolerably  well  until  we  reached 
the  centre  of  the  stream,  where  we  found  the  current  much 
more  rapid  than  we  had  anticipated.  Owing  to  this  circum- 
stance,  and  the  difficulty  of  steering  the  raft,  we  found  ourselves 
carried  alon^  with  great  velocity  towards  one  of  the  rocks 
already  mentioned.  The  danger  was  imminent ;  for,  had  we 
come  broadside  against  it,  we  should  undoubtedly  have  gone  to 
pieces  and  perished.  We  therefore  exerted  crselves  to  the 
utmost  to  prevent  the  collision,  and  were  so  far  fortunate  as  to 
escape,  with  merely  a  slight  shock  from  the  corner  of  the  rail 
touching  a  projecting  point  of  the  rock.  After  this  we  went  on 
smoothly,  and  reached  the  eastern  side  in  safety,  having  drifted 
about  a  mile  down  the  river  from  the  place  of  embarkation. 

The  horses  were  quickly  loaded,  and  we  proceeded  alone 
the  banks  about  nine  miles,  when,  ascending  a  high  hill,  which 
commanded  an  extensive  prospect,  we  observed  a  volume  of 
smoke  some  distance  ahead.  Supposing  it  had  been  made  by 
ovv  lost  companions,  two  active  men  were  sent  to  ascertain  the 
fact.  I'hey  shortly  returned,  and  stated  they  had  seen  a  fire  on 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  main  river,  but  no  appearance  of  any 
human  being  about  it.  We  therefore  conjectured  the  fire  had 
been  made  by  Bethune's  party,  and  that  they  had  continued  on. 

We  accordingly  increased  our  pace,  in  the  hope  of  overtaking 
them,  and  arrived  late  in  the  evening  at  an  uninhabited  house, 
heartily  tired.  This  place  is  called  the  "  Old  Fort,"  and  was 
built  several ,  years  before  as  a  hunting-lodge  for  trappers ;  but 
owing  to  the  scarcity  of  provisions  was  subsequently  aoandoned : 
its  lat.  is  52°  53'  10"  N. 

From  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers  to  the  old  fort,  the  country 
on  each  side  presents  a  pleasing  variety  of  prairies,  open  woods, 
and  gently  rising  eminences ;  and  one  spot  in  particular,  called 
La  prairie  de  la  Vache  (in  consequence  of  buffalo  having  been 
formerly  killed  in  it),  forms  a  landscape,  that  for  rural  beauty 
cannot  be  excelled  in  any  country.  Some  slight  showers  during 
the  day. 

June  4th.  Early  this  morning  we  despatched  two  parties  in 
quest  of  Messru*  M'Tavish,  Bethune,  and  the  men  who  remained 
with  them,  and  at  nine  o'clock  they  returned,  bringing  them  all 
back  in  safety,  but  in  a  state  of  great  exhaustion  from  want  of 
food,  and  exposure  without  covering  to  the  night  air.  They  had 
advanced  within  four  miles  of  our  encampment,  when  they  per* 
ceived  our  men ;  and  the  river  being  smooth,  they  constructed  a 
raft  and  crossed  over  in  safety.  Remained  here  a  couple  pf 
hours  to  refresh  the  party,  after  which  the  horses  wei^e  loa^^* 


SEPARATION  OF  THE  PARTY — HUNTING-LODGE. 


2» 


and  we  proceeded  for  about  three  miles  through  a  handsomely 
diversified  country,  when  our  progress  was  arrested  by  a  bold 
mountain  torrent,  which  fell  into  the  Athabasca.  It  was  too 
deep  to  ford,  and  we  were  again  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  our 
old  expedient  of  rafts  in  order  to  cross  it. 

The  navigation  of  the  main  river  from  this  place  to  Rockv 
Mountain  House  being  free  from  obstructions^  Mr.  M'Dougall 
determined  to  proceed  thither  by  water ;  and  taking  four  of  the 
men  with  him,  they  embarked  on  one  of  the  rafts,  and  we 
quickly  lost  sight  of  them.  We  continued  on  through  a  hand- 
some country  with  a  tolerable  pathway  until  sunset,  when  we 
encamped  on  the  border  of  a  small  rivulet  Wiiich  nma  into  the 
Athabasca. 

We  loaded  our  horses  at  three  in  the  morning  cf  the  5th,  and 
for  a  couple  of  hours  were  quite  shrouded  in  oceans  of  mist ; 
but  as  it  began  to  dissipate,  we  had  an  extensive  view  of  the 
surrounding  scenery. 

The  genial  influence  of  a  June  sun  relieved  the  wintry  per- 
spective of  snow-clad  mountains,  and  as  it  rose  above  their  lofty 
summits,  imparted  a  golden  tinge  to  the  green  savannas,  the 
open  woods,  and  the  innumerable  rivulets  which  contributed 
their  waters  to  swell  the  Athabasca.  It  was  indeed  a  landscape 
of  contrarieties,  scarcely  to  be  met  with  but  in  the  Alpine  regions 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

At  eight  A.  M.  we  arrived  at  a  hunting-lodge  belonging  to  the 
Company.  No  person  was  in  it ;  but  we  found  what  was  much 
more  acceptable,  the  body  of  a  buffalo  which  had  been  recently 
killed,  and  left  for  us  by  the  hunters.  It  was  none  of  the 
fattest :  but  to  such  half-famished  devils  it  was  an  unexpected 
luxury.  Having  eaten,  or  rather  devoured  our  breakfast,  and 
reserved  sufficient  for  supper,  we  resumed  progress  with  reno- 
vated spirits.  At  eleven  we  came  to  a  considerable  stream, 
which  it  was  necessary  to  cross.  It  had  recently  however  spread 
over  a  flat  bottom,  and,  forming  a  shallow  lake  of  some  acres 
in  extent,  completely  covered  the  pathway ;  in  consequence  of 
which  our  guide  experienced  much  difficulty  in  conducting  us 
through  it. 

About  a  mile  beyond  this  river  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  a 
stupendous  rock,  called  Le  Rocher  de  Miette,  over  which  we 
had  to  pass.  We  commenced  our  task  a  little  after  eleven  ;  and 
at  half  past  two  arrived  at  its  base  on  the  northern  side,  where 
we  remained  an  hour  to  refresh  the  liorses.  The  road  over 
this  rock  is  tolerably  good,  but  extremely  steep.  The  horses 
surmounted  it  with  great  labour ;  and  the  knees  of  the  majoiity 
of  our  party  were  put  to  a  severe  test  in  the  ascent.  From  the 
sumoiit  we  bad  wn  extensive  view  of  the  country,  the  general 


L:r  n 


4\' 


ROCKT  MOUNTAIN   HOUSE — SUPPOSED   VOLCANO. 


features  of  which  do  not  differ  materially  from  the  scenery 
through  which  we  passed  the  preceding  day.  A  little  above 
the  southern  point  of  the  rork  we  observed  that  the  Athabasca 
river  opened  into  a  lake  of  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  two 
in  breadth,  and  a  few  miles  below  its  northern  extremity  the 
river  formed  another  lake  of  nearly  similar  dimensions.  Inde- 
pendently of  these,  the  cr  ntinual  accession  of  waters  which  the 
Athabasca  received  from  its  tributary  streams  caused  it  to  burst 
its  natural  boundaries,  and  in  many  places  we  had  to  wade  from 
one  to  two  miles  through  the  flood.  Encamped  at  sunset,  at 
the  head  of  the  lower  lake ;  and,  maugro  our  fatigue  from  trav- 
elling "o'er  mountain  and  through  flood,"  succeeded  in  de- 
spatching with  wonderful  celerity  the  remains  of  our  buffalo. 

At  eight  A.  M.  on  the  morning  of  the  6th  we  came  opposite 
Rocky  Mountain  House,  which  is  built  on  the  western  shore  of 
the  second  lake.  A  canoe  was  immediately  despatched  for  us, 
and  we  crossed  over.  This  building  was  a  miserable  concern 
of  rough  logs,  with  only  three  apartments,  but  scrupulously 
clean  inside.  An  old  clerk,  Mr.  Jasper  Hawes,  was  in  charge, 
and  had  under  his  command  two  Canadians,  two  Iroquois,  and 
three  hunters.  Its  lat.  is  53°  18'  40"  N.  Mr.  M'Dougall  had 
arrived  the  day  before  us,  after  leaving  his  raft  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  lower  lake,  from  whence  he  and  his  party  walked  to  the 
house. 

We  expected  to  have  found  a  supply  of  provisions  here  that 
would  enable  us  to  reach  English  River ;  but,  to  our  extreme 
disappointment,  none  was  to  be  had.  Mr.  Hawes  informed  I's 
that  the  hunters  were  not  able  to  kill  more  animals  than  were 
barely  sufficient  to  support  his  party  ;  but  added,  that  there  was 
every  pi'obability  of  our  obtaining  a  supply  from  Lesser  Slave 
Lake,  where  Mr.  Alexander  Stewart  had  wintered,  and  whose 
party  we  expected  to  join  in  our  route  to  Fort  William.  Re- 
mained here  all  day  getting  our  canoes  into  order,  preparatory  to 
our  bidding  farewell  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  distance 
from  the  Columbia  to  this  place,  which  we  travelled  on  foot,  is 
by  computation  about  eighty-five  or  ninety  miles.  This  took 
nearly  ten  days  to  accomplish.  Some  of  our  men  were  greatly 
exhausted  ;  but  when  we  take  into  consideration  the  fatigues 
which  they  endured  in  ascending  the  Columbia,  the  burdens  they 
carried  in  crossing  the  mountain,  joined  to  the  difficulties  of  the 
road,  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  few  could  surpass  them  in 
strength,  patience,  or  perseverance.  The  house  is  situated  near 
a  stream  called  La  Riviere  a  la  Boucane,  in  consequence  of 
some  of  the  hunters  who  first  visited  this  place  having  alleged 
that  they  saw  a  vofcano  near  its  source,  which  emitted  great 
quantities  of  smoke.    On  making  inquiry  from  our  people,  I 


ANIMALS— 'TRADITION  CONCERNING  THE  M>MMOTH. 


255 


could  not  learn  that  they  had  ever  seen  r  .i  actual  eruption ;  but 
they  assert  that  in  the  autumnal  months  the  ground  is  quite  hot, 
and  that  smoke  issues  from  it  in  various  places ;  during  which 
period,  they  add,  a  strong  sulphuric  smell  pervades  the  at- 
mosphere. 

We  saw  nothing  from  which  we  could  judge  whether  the 
mountains  contained  any  metallic  ores  or  metals,  and  I  could 
not  find  on  the  banks  of  the  various  streams  any  of  those  fine 
agates  which  I  found  on  the  Columbia.  We,  however,  had  no 
time,  nor  were  we  qualified  to  enter  into  scientific  researches ; 
and  it  will  not  be  until  civilization  has  approached  a  few  hundred 
leagues  nearer  these  great  mountains  that  their  various  produc- 
tions will  be  known.  At  present,  however,  I  am  of  opinion 
that  they  contain  nothing  sufficient  to  repay  a  party  in  visiting 
them  merely  for  scientific  purposes.  The  animals  found  in  the 
various  passes  of  the  mountains  are  the  bufifaloes,  ibex,  big-horns, 
or  mountain  sheep,  bears,  and  sometimes  a  few  wolves.  These 
are  too  well  known  to  require  any  description  here.  Some  of 
the  Upper  Crees,  a  tribe  who  inhabit  the  country  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Athabasca  river,  have  a  curious  tradition  with  respect  to 
animals  which  they  state  formerly  frequented  the  mountains. 
They  allege  that  these  animals  were  of  frightful  magnitude, 
bpJnt^  from  two  to  three  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  high  in  pro- 
portion ;  that  they  form'^rly  lived  in  the  plams,  a  great  distance 
to  the  eastward ;  from  which  they  were  gradually  driven  by  the 
Indians  to  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  that  they  destroyed  all  smaller 
animals ;  and  if  their  agility  was  equal  to  their  size,  would  have 
also  destroyed  all  the  natives,  &c.  One  man  has  asserted  that 
his  grandfather  told  him  he  saw  one  of  those  animals  in  a  moun- 
tain pass,  where  he  was  hunting,  and  that  on  hearing  its  roar, 
which  he  compared  to  loud  thunder,  the  sight  almost  lefl  his 
eyes,  and  his  heart  became  as  small  as  an  infant's. 

Whether  i.uch  an  animal  ever  existed  I  shall  leave  to  the 
curious  in  natural  history  to  determine  ;  but  if  the  Indian  tradi- 
tion have  any  foundation  in  truth,  it  may  have  been  the  mam- 
moth, some  of  whose  remains  have  been  found  at  various  times 
in  the  United  States. 

The  height  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  varies  consideraWy. 
The  table  land  which  we  crossed  I  should  take  to  be  about 
11,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  the  immense  num- 
ber of  rapids  we  had  to  pass  in  ascending  the  Columbia,  and  its 
precipitous  bed  above  the  lakes,  I  consider  that  at  their  base  the 
mountains  cannot  be  much  under  8000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  Pacific ;  and  from  the  valley  of  Canoe  River  to  the  level 
part  of  the  heights  of  land  cannot  be  less  than  3000  feet,  but 
the  actual  altitude  of  their  highest  summits  must  be  much 


■CARCmr  OP  PROVISIONS — VEOSTATION. 


greater.  They  are  covered  with  eternal  ice  and  snow,  and  will 
probably  be  for  ever  inaccessible  to  man. 

June  7th.  We  were  detained  a  considerable  portion  of  this 
day  getting  the  canoes  finished,  and  at  half  past  one  p.  m.  we 
took  leave  of  the  melancholy  hermitage  of  Mr.  Jasper  Hawes. 
We  had  two  good  bark  canoes,  and  six  men  in  each.  The  lake 
extended  about  half  a  mile  below  the  house,  when  we  entered 
the  river,  the  current  of  which  is  very  strong,  with  here  and 
there  a  few  rapids,  at  none  of  which  we  were  obliged  to  unload. 

Encamped  at  dusk  on  a  small  low  island.  Had  several  smart 
showers  during  the  day. 

June  8th.  It  rained  the  greater  part  of  the  night.  Embarked 
at  daybreak  in  a  thick  fog,  which  continued  upwards  of  two 
hours.  At  eight  damaged  our  canoes  in  a  rapid,  at  the  foot  of 
which  we  stopped  to  breakfast  and  repair.  At  noon  passed  a 
small  river  from  the  east  called  M'Leod's  Fork.  Late  in  the 
evening  passed  two  lodges  of  Indians,  and  encamped  a  short 
distance  below  them.  They  paid  us  a  visit,  and  proved  to  be 
Crees  of  the  Forts  des  Prairies  department.  They  brought  with 
them  a  few  bags  of  dried  meat  and  fruit,  which  they  wished  to 
barter  for  rum ;  but  as  we  had  none  of  that  cheering  bevert^e 
to  ^ve  them,  we  tendered  them  our  bills  on  the  Company,  for 
which  they  would  have  obtained  value  from  any  proprietor  or 
clerk  of  the  establishment ;  at  the  same  time  explaining  to  them 
that  we  stood  in  great  need  of  provisions.  Mr.  Bethune  knew 
that  they  were  attached  to  the  interests  of  our  rivals  the  Hud- 
son's-Bay  Company,  and  therefore  offered  them  higher  prices 
than  he  would  have  done  to  those  of  a  friendly  tribe  ;  but  it  was 
all  unavaiiiLg.  They  would  hear  of  nothing — speak  of  nothing 
— until  rum  was  produced ;  and  on  finding  that  none  could  be 
obtained,  those  splendid  specimens  of  savage  hospitality  carried 
away  their  extra  provisions,  although  they  were  informed  that 
we  had  not  enough  to  subsist  on  for  a  couple  of  days ! 

From  Rocky  Mountain  House  to  this  place  the  country  on  each 
side  of  the  river  is  low,  and  tolerably  well  wooded,  but  a  strong 
and  marked  difference  is  observable  in  the  size  of  the  trees  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  mountains.  Here  all  is  dwarfish  and 
stunted ;  while  on  the  Columbia  the  vegetable  world  is  seen  in 
its  richest  and  most  magnificent  forms — including  all  the  varie- 
ties from  a  luxuriant  growth  of  blackberry  or  wild-cherry,  to 
the  stately  pine,  and  majestic  cedar.  It  is  difficult  to  account 
for  this  difference ;  but  if  I  might  hazard  an  opinion,  I  would 
attribute  it  to  the  great  humidity  of  the  climate  on  the  Colum- 
bia. There,  westerly  and  south-westerly  winds  prevail  eight 
months  out  of  the  twelve,  and  carry  with  them  immense  masses 
of  clouds  from  the  North  Pacific.    A  great  portion  <^  these 


UNPLEASANT   INTELLIGENCE. 


267 


break  over  the  high  lands  on  the  coast ;  and  such  as  escape  are 
arrested  in  their  flight  eastward  by  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
burst  over  their  western  base.  So  that  at  the  very  source  of  the 
Columbia  the  pine  and  cedar  are  as  gigantic  as  at  its  entrance 
into  the  ocean. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


Deieent  of  the  Athabasca  River — Party  dioappointed  in  receiving  provieiona 
— Elk  River  and  Lake — Join  the  brigade  from  Leaser  Slave  Lake — Arrive 
at  He  k  la  Crosse — Dreadful  effects  of  the  opposition  between  the  North- 
West  and  Iludson's-Bay  Companies — Sketch  of  Mr.  Peter  Ogden. 

Monday,  June  9th.  At  eleven  a.  m.  passed  a  small  river 
from  the  eastward,  called  the  Pembina,  from  a  profusion  of  ber- 
ries of  that  name  which  grow  on  its  banks.  At  two  p.  m.  stopped 
at  a  hunting-lodge  of  free  Iroquois.  The  head  of  the  family 
had  a  letter  addressed,  "  To  the  gentlemen  from  the  Columbia.'* 
It  was  eagerly  broken  open,  and  we  found  it  was  written  by  Mr. 
Alexander  Stewart,  and  dated  from  Lesser  Slave  Lake,  from 
which  place  he  was  on  the  point  of  setting  off"  with  his  winter's 
trade  of  furs  for  Fort  William.  In  it  he. regretted  his  inability 
to  assist  us  with  any  provisions,  alleging  as  a  reason,  that  he  had 
a  bare  sufficiency  for  the  support  of  his  own  people  outwards ; 
but  recommending  that  a  portion  of  our  party  should  be  sent  to 
Slave  Ijake,  where  they  would  find  fish  enough  during  the  sum- 
mer, and  be  able  to  set  off  the  ensuing  spring  without  any  fear  of 
starvation. 

This  intelligence  was  dreadful,  the  more  so  from  its  being  un- 
expected ;  for  the  spring  party  from  the  Columbia  had  hitherto, 
afler  crossing  the  mountains,  invariably  obtained  from  the  peo- 
ple ai,  liCsser  Slave  Lake,  a  fresh  stock  of  dried  meat  or  other 
lood  sufficient  to  support  them  to  English  River,  or  Cumberland 
House.  We  of  course  expected  the  usual  supply,  all  hopes  of 
which  were  now  banished  by  Mr.  Stewart's  letter.  A  council 
was  immediately  held  to  consider  what  plan  we  should  adopt  in 
this  emergency,  when  it  was  suggested  that  M'Tavish  and 
I  should  proceed  forthwith  with  six  men  to  Slave  Lake,  and 
remain  there  until  the  spring  for  our  passage  to  Canada.  To  me, 
another  year  in  the  Indian  country  would  be  an  age :  the  idea 
was  horrible;  and  I  at  once  refused  to  accede  to  sura  an  arrange- 
ment. M'Tavish  was  equally  unbending,  and  declared  his  fixed 
determination  to  proceed.    It  was  urged  that  we  had  not  pro- 

li 


S58 


DBSCENT   OF  TOE   ATHABASCA. 


visions  for  three  days,  and  that  with  such  a  scanty  alloteanccr, 
and  no  certainty  of  procuring  a  supply,  inevitable  starvation 
BM^aited  us.  Finding  that  this  gloomy  picture  made  no  impression 
on  us,  recourse  was  had  to  threats,  and  it  was  pretty  broadly 
insmuatcd  that  force  would  be  adopted  to  compel  obedience. 
Matters  now  became  desperate ;  we  loaded  our  gunc,  trimmed 
our  flints,  the  hilt  of  the  dirk  became  more  conspicuous,  and 
menace  was  answered  by  defiance.  The  canoe-men  looked  on 
in  silent  amazement,  but  did  not  attempt  to  interfere ;  indeed, 
had  they  been  so  inclined,  we  felt  certain  that  those  belonging 
to  our  own  canoe  would  not  have  deserted  us.  Our  opponents  at 
length  thought  it  prudent  to  yield  to  our  wishes,  and  a  sort  of 
sulky  reconciliation  took  place,  after  which  we  embarked.  We 
had  previously  ascertained  from  the  Iroquois,  that  Mr.  Stewart's 
brigade  was  not  more  than  four  days  ahead  ;  and  as  they  were 
heavily  laden  with  furs,  while  our  canoes  were  quite  light,  we 
determined  to  strain  every  nerve  to  overtake  them.  The  river 
was  broad,  with  a  swift  current,  and  free  from  rapids  ;  and  we 
therefore  continued  on  all  night,  a  disagreeable  head  wind  occa- 
sionally annoying  us. 

June  10th.  The  Athabasca  is  here  a  noble  river,  flowing 
through  a  rich  pasture  country  thinly  wooded;  saw  several 
tracks  of  buffalo  ;  but  while  we  had  the  current  in  our  favour 
we  did  not  think  it  prudent  to  stop.  The  stream  carried  us 
down  in  fine  style,  until  six  p.  m.,  when  we  arrived  at  the  en- 
trance of  ha  Riviere  de  la  Biche  (Elk  River),  where  we  left  the 
Athabasca,  which,  pursuing  the  course  I  have  already  mentioned, 
ultimately  discharges  its  waters  into  the  Arctic  Ocean.  For 
the  last  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  its  navigation  was  unin- 
terrupted by  rapids,  with  a  smooth  steady  current,  and  the  soil 
on  each  bank  of  the  richest  description. 

We  now  shaped  our  course  easterly,  and  ascended  Riviere 
de  la  Biche  about  three  miles,  when  we  encamped.  The  water 
was  very  low,  and  we  were  dreadfully  tormented  with  mosqui- 
toes ;  but  our  hunters  having  discovered  some  fresh  tracks  of 
buffalo,  cheered  our  drooping  spirits  a  little. 

June  1 1th.  Rose  at  daybreak,  but  could  scarcely  see  twenty 
yards  ahead,  from  a  thick  fog.  Owing  to  the  shallowness  of 
the  river,  the  passengers  preferred  walking,  in  order  to  lighten 
the  canoes.  Made  half  a  breakfast  of  our  dried  pemmican,  of 
which  we  had  not  now  enough  for  dinner.  At  ten  a.  m.  the 
river  became  wider  and  deeper,  which  enabled  us  to  embark 
and  resume  our  paddles.  At  eleven  passed  a  small  stream  called 
Auger's  River,  and  about  two  p,  m.  came  up  to  a  recent  en- 
campment of  the  Slave  Lake  brigade,  the  fires  of  which  were  still 
burning.    Here  we  also  found  some  pieces  of  buffalo  meat,  which 


FORTUNATE    REKOOVNTEB. 


'i59 


those  gentry  did  not  think  fat  enough  to  carry,  but  which  proved 
very  gruteiul  to  our  poor  fellows.  At  eight  passed  the  river  Pi- 
nette,  and  encamped  at  dusk.  The  land  on  each  side  was  very 
low,  and  thinly  wooded  with  small  pine  and  poplar.  In  some 
parts  wo  observed  patches  of  prairie  ground  of  two  or  three 
miles  in  extent.  Saw  one  buffalo  about  three  in  the  evening, 
but  missed  him. 

June  12th.  We  had  good  deep  water  for  paddling  from  day- 
break until  six  A.  M.,  when  the  river  for  about  four  miles  spread 
over  a  stony  bottom,  which  obliged  us  to  land  while  the  men 
worked  up  with  the  lines  and  poles.  It  then  became  narrower 
and  deeper,  and  continued  so  for  several  miles,  until  eleven  a. 
M.,  when  it  entered  Lac  de  la  Biche,  which  we  crossed  in  three 
hours  with  calm  weather.  As  wc  approached  the  eastern  shore, 
we  observed  smoke  issuing  from  a  small  cove,  and  immediately 
after  the  white  canvass  of  a  tent  met  our  delighted  eyes.  A 
few  minutes  more  brought  us  to  land,  when  we  had  the  inex- 
pressible pleasure  of  meeting  Mr.  Alexander  Stewart  and  the 
Slave  Lake  brigade,  consisting  of  eight  canoes  and  about  forty- 
five  men.  This  was  a  fortunate  circumstance.  We  had  not 
eaten  a  mouthful  that  day,  up  to  two  o'clock,  with  starvation 
staring  us  in  the  face,  no  natives  on  our  route,  and  our  chance 
of  killing  animals  more  than  doubtful.  Wc  now,  however, 
recompensed  ourselves  for  all  these  uncertainties  and  apprehen- 
sions by  a  plentiful  repast  of  roast  buffalo  and  white-fish. 

This  lake,  from  the  time  we  took  to  traverse  it,  I  should  sup- 
pose to  be  about  thirty  miles  in  circumference.  It  is  nearly  cir- 
cular, and  abounds  in  white-fish.  The  surrounding  country  ii 
extremely  low,  without  any  rising  ground  in  sight,  and  on  the 
western  side  the  land  is  quite  marshy.  The  shores  are  tolerably 
wooded,  principally  with  pine,  birch,  and  po)>Iar. 

During  the  night,  a  number  of  the  men  weie  employed  on  the 
lake  catching  fish  by  torch-light,  and  were  rati>er  successful. 

June  13th.  About  three  miles  to  the  eastward  of  our  encamp- 
ment lies  a  small  lake,  called  by  the  Canadians  Le  Petit  Lac  de 
Biche.  The  country  between  the  two  lakes  forms  the  height  of 
land  which  divides  the  waters  that  fall  into  the  Arctic  Ocean 
from  the  eastward,  from  those  which  fall  into  Hudson's  Bay  from 
the  westward.  Mr.  Stewart's  men  had  commenced  this  port- 
age yesterday,  and  it  took  us  the  greater  part  of  this  day  to  finish 
it;  which  will  not  appear  extraordinary,  when  it  is  considered 
that  ten  large  canoes,  and  between  two  and  three  hundred  packs 
of  beaver,  each  weighing  upwards  of  ninety  pounds,  had  to  be 
carried  three  miles  through  a  swampy  marsh,  full  of  underwood, 
during  the  greater  part  of  which  time  it  rained  heavily.  En- 
camped at  four  p.  BL  on  the  shore  of  the  little  lake  which  we 


960 


TEDIOUS  NAVIOATION. 


had  previously  crossed,  and  which  was  not  more  than  half  a  mile 
in  breadth. 

June  14th.  It  continued  raining  the  greater  part  of  the  night. 
Commenced  another  portage  this  morning,  of  two  hundred  bnd 
fifly  paces  in  length,  which  brought  us  to  a  small  stream  called 
Little  Beaver  River,  into  which  wo  threw  the  canoes.  There 
was  not  sufficient  water  to  float  them  when  loaded,  in  conse> 
quence  of  which  we  had  to  construct  dams  at  intervals  of  four 
or  five  hundred  paces.  This  was  both  a  tedious  and  laborious 
work ;  and  we  encamped  at  six  p.  m.,  having  advanced  only 
five  miles  since  morning.  Some  of  the  men  were  sent  ahead, 
to  make  more  dams.  The  passengers  walked  during  the  day, 
and  our  hunters  killed  one  fat  moose  deer.  The  country  is  thinly 
wooded  and  marshy,  ond  full  of  wild  onions  and  a  species  of 
plant  which  served  as  an  excellent  substitute  for  cabbage. 

June  15th.  It  rained  hard  all  night,  and  the  greater  part  of 
this  forenoon,owing  to  which  we  <lid  not  start  until  twelve  o'clock, 
and,  being  obliged  to  continue  the  damming  system  all  day,  our 
progress  was  of  course  extremely  tedious.  I'assed  several  hand- 
some prairies,  and  observed  in  many  places  along  the  banks  of 
the  little  river  marks  of  beaver  cuttings.  Birch,  pine,  and  poplar 
form  the  principal  timber  here.  Made  a  small  portage,  and 
encamped  at  seven  v.  m.  Our  hunters  killed  another  prime 
moose. 

June  16th.  Set  off  at  three  a.  m.,  still  in  the  dams.  At 
seven  made  a  short  portage,  at  the  end  of  which  we  stopped  to 
breakfast  and  repair  the  canoes,  which  had  been  greatly  shat- 
tered by  the  ditch  navigation.  About  one  p.  m.  we  had  a  suf- 
ficient navigation  to  admit  of  our  embarking,  and  we  proceeded 
with  a  tolerably  smooth  current  until  half  past  four,  when  we 
encamped,  having  overtaken  our  hunters,  who  had  killed  a  fat 
bull-buifalo  and  two  beavers,  on  which  we  made  an  excellent 
dinner.  The  country  was  not  so  well  wooded  as  yesterday. 
We  had  cloudy  and  occasionally  rainy  weather,  which  for  the 
season  was  also  rather  chilly. 

June  17th.  Embarked  at  half  past  three  a.  m.  Made  sev- 
eral portages  on  account  of  rapids  and  shoals.  Our  progress 
was  therefore  slow.  Killed  a  buck-moose  in  good  condition. 
On  shore  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  It  consisted  principally 
of  rich  meadow  land,  with  clusters  of  birch  and  poplar  scattered 
here  and  there  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  Encamped  at 
six  p.  M. 

June  18th.  Set  off  at  four,  and  had  a  pretty  smooth  steady 
current  all  day.  The  country  now  assumes  a  more  picturesque 
appearance,  rather  thickly  wooded,  and  the  banks  of  the  river 
more  bold  and  hilly.    The  rapidity  of  our  progress  brought  us 


LETTEUS    Fni<NI>— HALT    AND   EXCVRHIOKT. 


2G1 


considcmhiy  in  ndvanco  of  the  huritors,  and  nt  three  v.  m.  wc  put 
ashore  to  wait  for  ihc'm.  The  placo  at  which  we  8to()pc(l  wan 
called  Jm  Jolie  Buttr,  by  way  of  pre-eminence,  from  the  varied 
and  handsome  landscape  hy  which  it  was  Hiirrounded.  The  hunt- 
ers joined  us  at  six,  after  which  wo  continued  on,  ai.d  encamped 
at  eight  f.  m.  in  sight  'jf  Moose  Portage.  Only  t.iree  beavers 
were  killed  this  day. 

June  lUlh.  Sent  the  hunters  off  ahead  at  daybreak,  and  at 
half  past  five  commenced  Moose  I'ortagc,  which  we  passed  in  less 
than  two  hours.  Here  we  found,  fixe(l  on  poles  in  a  conspicuous 
part  of  the  portage,  some  letters  from  the  gentlemen  stationed 
nt  Forts  des  Prairies,  containing  satisfoctory  news.  From  their 
date  we  conjectured  that  the  messengers  who  brc'Ught  them  must 
have  been  very  recently  at  the  |)ortage.  At  nine  a,  m.  joined 
the  hunters,  who  had  just  returned  from  a  lo-ig  cha.so  to  the  north- 
ward,  in  the  course  of  wliich  they  only  killed  one  bull  and  one 
moose :  and  as  we  stood  in  great  need  of  a  supply,  we  were 
obliged  to  stop  here  the  '•cmainder  of  the  day,  to  guve  the  meat- 
men time  to  bring  in  the  bodies  of  those  animals.  Th(  hunters, 
however,  started  off  ahead. 

June  20th.  The  meat-men  did  not  return  until  nine  this  morn- 
ing, when  we  embarked ;  but  at  eleven  the  hunters'  signal  drew 
us  to  shore,  and  the  meat-men  were  despatched.  They  remained 
away  six  hours,  and  returned  at  five  p.  m.  loaded  with  the 
carcasses  of  an  immensely  sized  bull,  and  a  huge  grizzly  bear. 
Encamped  at  ei^ht  at  the  Portage  du  Lac  Froid,  a  small  lake, 
the  water  of  which  some  of  our  people  imagine  is  colder  than 
that  of  Beaver  River,  and,  in  order  to  account  for  this  extra  fri- 
gidity, it  is  supposed  that  it  is  fed  from  the  bottom  by  springs  of 
a  peculiar  nature.  I  tasted  it  ;  but  whether  it  was  owing  to  the 
heat  of  the  weather,  or  to  a  vitiated  palate  I  must  candidly 
confess,  that  I  could  not  discover  any  perceptible  difference  in 
its  temperature. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  for  the  last  few  days  is 
highly  diversified  with  hill  and  dale,  meadow-ground  and  timber, 
and  has  many  charming  spots  for  building. 

June  31st.  Set  off  at  tour  a.  m.,  and  drove  down  the  current 
in  fine  style  until  two  p.  m.,  when  we  came  up  with  our  hunters. 
They  had  just  returned  after  a  long  and  fatiguing  pursuit  of  a 
herd  of  buffaloes,  three  of  which  they  killed,  besides  five  they 
wounded,  but  which  made  their  escape.  Encamped  here,  and 
sent  oflf  a  party  for  tlie  meat.  A  ridge  of  pretty  high  hills  thickly 
wooded  runs  parallel  with  the  course  of  the  river  from  Lac 
Froid  to  this  place.  M'Tavish  and  I  took  a  stroll  inland  in  the 
track  of  the  hunters,  and  had  not  proceeded  more  than  a  mile, 


His 


262 


DISAGREEABLE  NEWS. 


when  we  observed  several  buffaloes  grazing.  I  instantly  fired, 
and  hit  one  under  the  left  shoulder.  The  remainder  fled ;  but 
the  wounded  animal,  bellowing  in  a  frightful  manner,  with  rage 
and  fury  flashing  from  his  rolling  eyes,  charged  on  us.  We 
retreated  behind  the  cover  of  a  tree,  from  whence  M'Tavish  took 
a  steady  aim,  and  lodged  a  ball  in  his  head  directly  over  the  right 
eye.  He  instantly  fell,  and  we  cautiously  approached  him,  but 
took  care  to  plant  a  couple  more  bullets  about  his  head  before 
we  came  within  arm's  length. 

June  22d.  The  meat-men  did  not  return  until  half  past  ten 
this  morning,  when  we  set  off,  but  were  obliged  to  stop  from 
twelve  to  three  for  another  buffalo  which  our  hunters  had  killed. 
Encamped  at  eight  f.  m.  in  a  handsome  prairie  on  the  north  side. 
Observed  recent  marks  of  buffalo  and  moose,  and  numerous 
beaver  cuttings. 

June  23d.  Embarked  at  half  past  three  a.  m.  Stopped 
about  an  hour  for  a  moose  which  was  killed  about  half  a  mile 
inland.  The  river  for  the  two  last  days  had  no  rapid  of  any  conse- 
quence, and  the  weather  was  very  warm.  A  little  after  eight  p.  m. 
observed  a  small  leather  hut  on  the  north  side,  in  which  we  found 
three  free  trappers,  who  had  been  formerly  engages  of  the  North- 
West  Company ;  but  who,  after  the  expiration  of  their  engage- 
ment, preferred  the  wild  and  wandering  life  of  a  trapper,  to  re- 
maining in  the  Company's  service,  or  returning  to  Canada.  We 
encamped  a  little  below  their  hut,  and  they  visited  us  after  sup- 
per. Their  news  was  by  no  means  of  an  agreeable  nature. 
They  informed  us  that  they  had  learned  from  some  natives  that 
a  party  of  the  Cree  Indians  from  Forts  des  Prairies,  urged  by 
large  promises  of  reward  from  the  Hudson's-Bay  Company,  had 
gone  on  a  war  expedition  to  destroy  our  establishment  at  He  a  la 
Crosse  and  all  its  inmates ;  adding,  that  whether  successful  or 
not,  it  was  more  than  probable  we  might  meet  this  party  en 
route. 

As  this  intelligence  was  quite  unexpected,  and  as  we  were 
badly  prepared  to  encounter  a  war  party  of  savages,  Mr.  Stew- 
art, who  had  now  the  command,  ordered  the  hunters  not  to 
advance  more  than  a  mile  ahead,  and  in  case  they  observed  any 
appearance  of  natives,  to  return  immediately  to  the  main  brigade. 
In  the  mean  time  our  fire-arms  were  put  in  order,  and  the  men, 
the  greater  part  of  whom  had  no  weapons  save  their  knives, 
were  ordered  to  furnish  themselves  with  clubs.  We  then  retired 
to  rest,  leaving  five  sentinels  and  an  officer  on  guard,  to  be  re- 
lieved every  two  hours. 

June  24th.  Set  off  at  half  past  three,  a.  m.  At  half  past 
two  p.  M.,  passed  Lac  Vert,  a  small  lake  so  called  from  the 
greenish  tinge  of  its  water.    Encamped  at  half  past  seven  at  the 


•^"    t. 


IW 


.  -=.^  - 


ARRIVAL   AT   THE   PORT — COMMERCIAL  WARFARE. 


263 


entrance  of  a  small  river  called  La  Poule  d'Eau.  The  coun* 
try  these  two  days  is  thinly  wooded,  and  very  flat.  In  many 
places  the  river  had  overflowed  its  banks.     Saw  no  animals. 

June  25th.  Embarked  at  half  past  three.  Stopped  from 
eleven  to  two  to  repair  the  canoes,  and  dry  some  of  the  beaver 
which  had  been  slightly  damaged  from  leaks.  The  country 
through  which  we  passed  this  day  was  quite  flat  and  marshy, 
occasioned  by  the  inundations  in  times  of  high  water.  Encamped 
at  dusk,  at  the  entrance  of  a  small  river  called  La  Plonge. 

June  26th.  Beaver  River  at  this  place  branches  into  several 
channels.  We  took  the  principal  one,  and  at  eleven  a.  m.  ar- 
rived at  its  termination,  where  it  enters  the  lake  of  lie  a  la  Crosse, 
nearly  opposite  the  tort.  Stopped  here  for  half  an  hour  pour  se 
faire  la  barbe,  and  make  other  little  arrangements  connected 
with  the  toilet.  These  being  completed,  we  embarked,  but  having 
the  fear  of  the  Crees  before  our  eyes,  our  progress  was  slow  and 
cautious  across  the  lake,  until  our  avant-couriers  announced  to 
us  that  the  flag  of  the  North-West  floated  from  the  bastions,  and 
that  all  was  safe.  The  Chanson  a  Vaviron  was  instantly  struck 
up,  and  at  one  p.  m.  we  reached  the  wharf,  where  we  were  met 
by  Messrs.  M'Murray  and  Ogden,  who  were  in  charge  of  the 
fort.  Those  gentlemen  had  also  heard  the  rumoured  intention  of 
the  Crees  to  attack  the  establishment,  but  they  were  of  opinion 
that  the  attempt  would  not  be  made.  They  had  only  eight  men 
under  their  command ;  but  the  place  was  surrounded  by  strong 
palisades,  and  flanked  by  two  bastions,  which,  although  not  very 
beautiful  specimens  of  fortification,  would  have  puzzled  a  bat- 
talion of  Indians  to  take.  The  Hudson's-Bay  Company  had  a 
fort  on  a  point  of  land  running  into  the  lake,  which  was  not  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant  from  our  establishment.  It  had 
been  taken  the  preceding  winter  by  the  North-West  Company, 
and  at  the  period  of  our  arrival  there  were  about  twenty  (men) 
prisoners  in  it,  and  upwards  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  women 
and  children,  laesides  dogs  innumerable.  They  were  miserably 
supplied  with  provisions,  and  all  seemed  dejected  and  emaciated. 
Their  principal  reliance  for  food  was  on  the  lake  ;  and  when 
the  fish  failed,  their  chief  support  was  tripe  de  rocher.  I  con- 
versed with  some  of  the  men.  They  were  from  the  Orkneys, 
and  wished  they  were  sale  home  again.  They  spoke  in  no 
flattering  terms  of  the  treatment  they  had  received  from  their 
captors ;  but  admitted  that  such  of  the  North- Westers  as  had 
been  made  prisoners  by  their  party  fared  no  better. 

It  will  undoubtedly  sound  odd  in  the  ear  of  British  readers, 
to  hear  of  forts  attacked  and  prisoners  taken  by  commercial 
companies,  natives  of  the  same  country,  and  subjects  of  the 


m 


Uk^i 


264 


RIVAL   COMPANIES COLONIAL   HARDSHIPS. 


'  \ 


same  king.  To  account  for  this  it  will  be  necessary  to  take  a 
short  retrospect,  in  order  to  explain  the  causes  that  led  to  a  state 
of  things  which  was  ultimately  productive  of  so  many  disastrous 
and  melancholy  consequences. 

The  opposition  between  the  Hudson's-Bay  and  the  North- 
West  Companies  was  for  many  years  carried  on  w'thoui  any 
violent  breach  of  the  peace  on  either  side.  As  I  have  observed 
in  the  introduction,  the  indolent  habits  uf  the  persons  belonging 
to  the  former,  unstimulated  by  any  hope  of  extra  reward  or 
prospective  promotion,  gave  to  the  North- West  Company  pow- 
erful advantages,  of  which  they  did  not  fail  to  avail  themselves ; 
and  while  their  enterprising  agents  explored  the  most  remote 
parts  of  the  continent  for  the  extension  of  their  trade,  their 
chartered  opponents,  with  a  Dutch-like  kind  of  apathy,  quietly 
confined  themselves  to  their  ancient  territory. 

Both  parties  were  thus  situated,  when  the  late  Earl  of  Selkirk 
conceived  the  idea  of  establishing  a  Colony  of  Scotch  and  Irish 
on  the  Red  River,  which  falls  into  Lake  Winepic.  The  soil  was 
fertile,  the  climate  temperate,  and,  were  it  not  for  its  great 
distance  from  civilization,  was  admirably  calculated  for  a  new 
settlement.  It  was,  however,  the  great  dep6t  of  the  North- West 
Company  for  making  pemmican,  the  principal  article  of  food 
used  by  their  canoe-men  in  voyaging.  If  the  colony  succeeded, 
it  would  gradually  cut  off  the  buffalo,  from  which  the  pemmican 
is  made,  and  ultimately  oblige  the  Company  to  import  from 
Canada,  at  an  enormous  expense,  a  great  portion  of  the  provi- 
sions necessarj'  for  their  travelling  parties.  It  may  therefore  be 
supposed,  that  the  settlers  were  not  regarded  with  the  most 
friendly  feelings ;  and  every  obstacle  short  of  actual  violence  was 
thrown  in  the  way  of  their  location.  Their  first  year  was  one 
of  incredible  hardships,  arising  from  their  ignorance  of  the  coun- 
try and  its  productions,  and  the  total  failure  of  their  provisions ; 
which,  joined  to  the  various  modes  of  annoyance  practised  by 
the  North- West  Company,  induced  the  greater  part  to  avail 
themselves  of  an  offer  made  by  members  of  that  concern  to 
transport  them  gratuitously  to  Canada  in  their  canoes. 

The  want  of  success  in  his  first  attempt  at  colonization  being, 
in  a  great  degree,  caused  by  the  opposition  of  the  North- West 
Company,  Lord  Selkirk  determined  to  adopt  retaliatory  mea- 
sures ;  and  for  this  purpose  purchased  a  number  of  shares  in  the 
Hudson's-Bay  Company,  of  which  he  became  an  active  director. 
His  Lordship  was  well  aware  that  several  clerks,  who  had  been 
many  years  in  the  service  of  the  rival  Company,  w»^re  discon- 
tented at  not  having  been  sooner  promoted  to  the  jroprietory, 
and  that  the  claims  of  the  old  and  faithful  were  too  often  passed 
over,  while  young  favourites  of  comparatively  little  experience 


MA.N(EUVRIN0 — RIVAL  TRADERS. 


265 


Were  placed  above  them.  It  was  therefore  an  important  object 
with  him  to  induce  as  many  as  possible  of  those  so  dissatisfied 
to  join  his  party  by  the  offer  of  large  salaries,  which  several,  at 
the  expiration  of  their  various  engagements  with  the  North- West 
Company,  accepted. 

The  most  active  of  these  gentlemen  was  Mr.  Colin  Robertson, 
an  enterprising  trader,  who  had  often  ventured  his  life,  both 
among  Indians  and  white  men,  to  advance  the  interests  of  his 
establishment.  Having  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  business  of 
the  interior,  Lord  Selkirk  intrusted  him  with  its  chief  manage* 
ment ;  and  as  he  knew  from  experience  the  great  superiority  of 
the  Canadian  voyageurs  over  the  Orkney  men,  in  the  manage* 
ment  of  canoes,  &c.,  he  engaged  a  number  of  them  at  Montreal 
at  a  much  higher  rate  of  wages  than  had  been  previously  paid 
by  the  North- West  Company. 

The  opposition  between  the  rival  parties  now  assumed  a  new 
and  more  marked  character,  and  the  invigorating  spirit  which 
had  been  infused  into  the  hitherto  cautious  councils  of  the  Hud* 
Bon's-Bay,  by  the  daring  policy  of  Mr.  Robertson,  soon  became 
manifest.  He  knew  the  strong  holds  and  the  weak  points  of 
his  opponents,  and  being  of  opinion  that  much  depended  on 
the  first  impression  made  on  the  Indians,  he  at  once  determined 
to  push  for  Athabasca,  the  great  northern  department  of  the 
North- West,  and  the  most  productive  in  beaver.  No  rival 
trader  had  ever  before  ventured  to  encroach  on  Athabasca,  and 
this  unexpected  invasion  was  deemed  the  ne  plus  ultra  of  au» 
dacity,  the  seizure  of  the  bull  by  the  bonis. 

Mr.  Robertson  was  successful  in  his  first  expedition.  The 
high  prices  he  offered  for  their  furs  seduced  the  natives  from 
their  allegiance  to  their  old  masters,  and  hundreds  came  crowd* 
ing  to  his  standard.  In  other  parts  of  the  interior  the  struggle 
was  more  obstinate,  and  the  North-Westers,  to  secure  the  waver- 
ing loyalty  of  the  Indians,  were  compelled  to  keep  pace  with  the 
advanced  prices  of  their  opponents. 

A  reinforcement  of  settlers  having  in  the  mean  time  arrived 
at  Hudson's  Bay,  they  were  despatched  to  the  Red  River,  where 
they  built  a  strong  fort,  and  began  to  re-establish  the  colony. 
Several  of  the  natives  joined  them,  and  the  influence  of  the 
North- West  became  sensibly  diminished  in  that  quarter. 

Thus  far  Lord  Selkirk's  plan  of  operations  for  the  year  1814* 
15  succeeded  beyond  his  expectations  ;  and  great  preparations 
were  made  by  him  for  opening  the  ensuing  campaign  on  a  much 
more  extended  scale.  The  exertions  of  the  North- Westers 
were  equally  vigorous.  Double  the  usual  quantity  of  trading 
goods  was  sent  to  the  interior,  the  men's  wages  were  raised,  and 
several  clerks  were  elected  proprietors.     The  orders  to  both 

Kk 


H-^ 


V^: 


266 


COMMERCIAL   WARFARtT. 


parties  were,  to  secure  as  much  provisions  and  furs  as  they 
could  collect,  coiite  qui  coute. 

Mr.  Clarke,  lately  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company,  on  his  arrival 
in  Canada  from  the  Columbia,  was  engaged  by  Lord  Selkirk, 
and  proceeded  with  a  strong  force  to  Athabasca,  in  which  de- 

Kartment  he  had  spent  many  years  while  in  the  service  of  the 
forth- West,  during  which  period  he  was  a  great  favourite  with 
the  Chepweyans. 

It  is  not  my  intention,  however,  to  give  a  detail  of  the  various 
quarrels,  the  prisoners  made,  the  forts  surprised,  or  the  lists  of 
killed  and  wounded  on  each  side :  but  from  the  following  ex- 
tracts of  letters,  which  I  received  before  quitting  the  Columbia, 
it  will  be  seen  that  the  Hudson's-Bay  people  were  the  greatest 
sufierers. 


I !  .  i^ 


•♦  Fort  William,  28th  July,  1816. 

'*  You  already  know  t?  e  strong  opposition  that  came  into  the 
country,  the  greatest  part  of  which  went  to  Athabasca  and 
Slave  Lake.  You  must  also  have  heard  of  their  success  at  the 
former  place,  having  been  obliged  from  starvation  to  give  them- 
selves up  to  the  North-West ;  although  your  old  friend*  swore 
he  would  rather  die  than  come  under  any  obligations  to  our 
people.  He  lost  seventeen  men  by  famine.  At  Slave  Lake 
they  were  more  successful ;  but  at  the  different  establishments 
they  had  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  they  lost  thirteen  more 
by  starvation.  Last  June  they  received  a  mortal  blow  from 
the  Cossacksf  of  Red  River ;  of  which  affair,  as  I  was  on  the 
spot  a  few  days  after,  I  shall  give  you  a  detail.  You  of  course 
know  that  two  of  our  forts  were  taken,  and  all  the  property ; 
and  that  Capt.  CameronJ  was  made  prisoner.  The  forts  were 
subsequently  burned. 

"Mr.  A,  M'Donell,  who  was  stationed  at  Qu'appelle  river, 
held  his  fort  in  defiance  of  them.  He  was  threatened  with 
destruction  if  he  made  any  attempt  to  pass  downward.  His 
opponent,  however,  started  with  his  men,  and  returns  of  furs 
and  provisions  ;  of  the  latter  he  had  about  three  hundred  tau- 
reaux  (pemmigans)  well  guarded,  as  they  thrught,  but  those 
blackguard  Brulcs  (I  know  not  for  what  ca'ise)  fell  in  with 
them,  took  them  all  prisoners,  and  carried  the  property  to  Mr. 
M'Donell.  No  blood  was  shed  on  this  occafion.  Some  time 
after  Mr.  M'Donell  being  anxious  for  the  arrival  of  the  gentle- 


*  Mr.  Clarke. 

t  A  nom  de  guerre  given  by  the  writer  to  the  sons  of  white  men  by  Indian 
wives.  They  are  also  called  Bois  BruUs, — but  why,  it  is  dillicult  to  detet- 
r.;ine. 

t  This  gentleman  was  a  proprietor  of  the  Noith-West  Company. 


^'- 


they 


nver, 


COMMERCIAL   WARFARE. 


267 


men  from  the  ti.^rr award,  sent  a  party  of  five  Canadians  with 
two  carts  loaded  with  provisions  for  us  by  land ;  and  the  above 
blackguards  took  upon  themselves  to  accompany  them,  to  the 
number  of  fifty.  On  passing  by  the  colony,  at  the  distance  of 
two  miles,  they  were  stopped  by  the  governor  and  twenty-six 
men  well  armed.  The  BruUs  were  at  that  time  but  thirteen, 
including  the  Canadians.  A  few  words  arose  between  the 
governor  and  one  of  our  men.  The  former  ordered  hiK  men 
to  fire,  when  two  only  with  much  reluctance  obeyed.  The  fire 
was  immediately  returned  by  the  BruUs,  when  seven  instantly 
fell.  A  retreat  was  begun  by  the  Hudson's-Bay  people ;  but 
out  of  twenty-six,  only  four  escaped.  Officers  killed.  Governor 
Semple,  Messrs.  M'Lean,  Rogers,  Holt,  Wilkinson,  and  Doctor 
White.  A  Mr.  Burke,  who  commanded  their  artillery,  wag 
wounded,  and  is  now  a  prisoner  here  with  *Sree  others.  The 
Brules  had  only  one  man  killed  and  one  wounded.  They 
took  the  fort,  with  a  great  quantity  of  arms  and  ammunition, 
and  have  sworn  vengeance  against  every  description  of  Hud- 
son's-Bay men.  Even  the  Indians  attached  to  the  interests  of 
the  latter  were  obliged  to  come  under  the  banners  of  the  Brulis. 
They  were  commanded  by  six  officers,  some  of  whom  you 
know.*  This  happened  on  the  19th  of  June,  and  we  arrived  on 
the  23d. 

"  Lord  Selkirk  is  coming  up  in  person  with  a  strong  force, 
expecting,  no  doubt,  to  carry  every  thing  before  him.  His  body- 
guard was  taken  from  him  before  leaving  Montreal,  as  the  regi- 
ment was  disbanded.  He  has,  however,  hired  some  of  them  on 
his  own  account.  We  expect  him  daily.  His  friend  Miles 
M'Donell,  with  two  canoes,  went  in  almost  to  Ban  de  la  Riviere ; 
but  on  learning  from  the  Indians  the  above  intelligence,  he 
thought  proper  to  change  his  course,  and  immediately  returned 
to  wait  his  lordship's  orders.  Five  of  their  canoes  are  stuck  fast 
near  this  place,  one  further  on,  and  three  have  returned  to  the 
Sault  in  a  state  of  mutiny.  By  this  you  may  see  what  his 
lordship's  prospects  may  be/' 

"  Fort  William,  30th  July,  1826. 
"  My  dear  Cox, 
"  Times  have  much  altered  since  I  have  been  on  this  side  the 
mountains.     The  habits  of  indolence  which  I  acquired  on  the 
banks  of  the  Columbia  render  every  thing  on  this  busy  bustling 

*  The  leader  of  this  party,  Mr.  Alexander  Fraser,  is  the  same  individual 
who  lost  his  life  at  the  commencement  of  the  year  1829  in  Paris,  in  a  quarrel 
with  a  Mr.  Warren,  who  was  subsequently  tried  for  the  offence,  and  sen- 
tenced to  eighteen  months  imprisonment.  Mr.  Fraser  was  wholly  bUnjelesa 
lA  the  unfortunate  Affair  which  ended  in  liii  death. 


{ 


I 


{' 


\i-' 


■>  { ■ 


M:  V 


>  •( 


368 


COMMERCIAL   WARFARE. 


u 


!r"/i 


scene  rather  disagreeable ;  and,  to  add  to  my  vexation,  notwith< 
standing  my  long  services,  and  my  exertions  to  avoid  it,  1  have 
been  appointed  to  winter  in  a  most  villanous  starving  post,  with 
a  strong  force  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  to  oppose  me. 

"Mr.  Clarke  v^^as  remarkably  unfortunate  in  his  Athabasca 
expedition.  He  lost  numbers  of  his  people  from  starvation ; 
and  in  order  to  save  the  remainder  he  was  forced  to  capitulate, 
surrender  his  fort,  and  the  whole  of  his  property. 

"  At  Red  River,  during  the  winter,  the  Hudson's-Bay  drove 
all  before  them.  They  took  several  of  our  forts,  and  made  a 
prisoner  of  one  of  our  proprietors  (Mr.  Cameron),  whom  they 
sent  to  the  Bay,  to  be  from  thence  transmitted  for  trial  to  Eng- 
land. They  met  however  a  severe  blow  in  the  sprin?.  They 
attacked  a  party  of  half-breeds,  and  were  defeated  with  the  loss 
of  twenty-five  men,  including  three  officers.  Their  forts  and 
provisions  fell  into  our  hands,  their  men  were  made  prisoners, 
and  the  wliole  of  their  colonists  and  traders  were  diiven  out 
of  the  Red  River. 

"  We  are  daily  expecting  Lord  Selkirk  wit'.i  a  force  of  two 
hundred  men  from  Montreal,  but  he  will  be  uadoubtedly  forced 
to  retreat  from  want  of  provisions.  He  is  yet  ignorant  of  the 
disasters  that  have  befallen  his  favourite  colony.  What  the 
result  will  be,  time  must  determine." 

The  writers  of  those  letters  were  two  of  the  most  moderate 
men  in  our  Company ;  but  from  the  apathy  they  evince  in 
speaking  of  the  ruthless  massacre  of  the  unfortunate  settlers,  the 
esprit  de  corps  which  animated  the  fighting  members  may  be 
conjectured.  In  fact,  the  infernal  spirit  of  rivalry  had  attained 
such  a  height,  that  the  mildest  and  the  bravest  of  both  parties 
bepame  in  turn  the  most  reckless  desperadoes.  Force  was  the 
Drily  tribunal  to  which  they  appealed,  and  arms  their  only 
arguments. 

The  peace  with  the  United  States  had  thrown  idle  in  Canada 
a  number  of  soldiers  whose  regiments  had  been  disbanded. 
Among  those  was  de  Meuron's  regiment,  upwards  of  two  hun- 
dred of  which  were  engaged  by  Lord  Selkirk,  as  a  corps  d'obser- 
vation,  to  awe  the  North- Westers.  On  hearing  however  of  the 
fate  of  the  colonists  at  Red  River,  he  did  not  think  it  prudent  to 
venture  beyond  Fort  William,  and  immediately  returned  to  the 
seat  of  government  in  Canada.  A  number  of  the  most  influ- 
ential members  of  the  rival  companies  had  been  the  year  before 
appointed  magistrates  cf  the  Indian  territory  ;  and  owing  to  the 
representations  of  his  lordship,  as  to  the  manner  in  which  his 
majesty's  subjects  were  murdering  each  other  with  impunity, 
the  governor-general  issued  a  proclamation,  comnianding  the 


U08FITABLE  BNTERTAINMKNT, 


260 


immediate  arrest  of  all  persons  concerned  in  the  recent  outrp-^es, 
and  threatening  wi(h  the  severest  punishment  all  futui-e  breaches 
of  the  peace.*  His  excellency  also  appointed  Messrs.  Collman 
and  Fletcher,  two  gentlemen  of  the  highest  respectability,  and 
unconnected  with  either  company,  as  commissioners  to  proceed 
forthwith  to  the  Indian  country,  for  the  purpose  of  investigating 
into  the  origin  of  the  outrages,  and  to  order  the  arrest  of  all  per- 
sons implicated,  with  a  view  to  their  being  transmitted  to 
Canada  for  trial.     It  was  however  rather  late  in  the  season  to 

[)roceed  to  the  interior,  and  their  departure  was  therefore  de- 
ayed  until  the  spring  of  1817. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  war  was  carried  on  with  unabated 
vigour  during  the  winter  of  1816-17.  One  partner,  one  clerk, 
and  a  few  men  belonging  to  the  North- Westers,  were  captured 
by  the  Hudson's- Bay  people  ;  but  the  latter  were  generally  de- 
feated. Several  of  their  officers  and  numbers  of  their  men 
were  made  prisoners ;  and  some  of  their  forts  were  obliged  to 
capitulate  on  unconditional  terms. 

The  spirit  of  ruinous  competition  had  at  this  period  gained 
such  a  height,  that  the  prices  given  to  the  Indians  for  their  furs, 
after  deducting  the  expenses  of  carriage  and  other  contingent 
charges,  far  exceeded  their  value  to  the  Company.  Their  profits 
became  sensibly  diminished,  and  the  persons  who  derived  the 
greatest  benefits  from  the  opposition  were  the  clerks  and  other 
employes. 

Such  was  the  situation  of  affairs  when  we  arrived  at  He  k  la 
Crosse.  As  I  have  already  mentioned,  the  Hudson's-Bay  estab- 
lishment at  this  place  had  been  captured  the  preceding  winter 
by  the  North-West,  and  the  officer  in  charge  sent  forward  to 
join  some  more  of  his  companions  in  captivity. 

We  remained  a  couple  of  days  at  the  fort  to  refresh  the  men, 
and  were  hospitably  entertained  by  our  hosts,  on  excellent 
white  fish,  and  tea  without  sugar.  One  of  those  gentlemen, 
Mr.  Peter  Ogden,  was  nearly  related  to  a  high  judicial  func- 
tionary, and  in  early  life  was  destined  for  the  same  profession. 
The  study  of  provincial  jurisprudence,  and  the  seignorial  subdi- 
visions of  Canadian  property,  had  no  charms  for  the  mercurial 
temperament  of  Mr,  Ogden ;  and,  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  his 
friends,  he  preferred  the  wild  and  untrammelled  life  of  an  Indian 
trader,  to  the  "  law's  delay,"  and  the  wholesome  restraints  which 
are  provided  for  the  correction  of  over-exuberant  spirits  in  civ- 
ilized society.  His  accounts  of  his  Various  rencounters  with 
Orkney  men  and  Indians  would  have  filled  a  moderate-sized 

*  This  document  was  forwarded  by  express  to  the  interior,  and  treated  with 
WPi9nlgn  contempt  by  the  raqjoritjr  of  those  to  whom  it  was  addressed. 


i 


■    I! 


ill  I 


ii  'i>  I 


fmi. 


270 


ROUTE   CONTINUED. 


octavo,  and  if  reduced  to  writing  would  undoubtedly  stagger  the 
credulity  of  any  person  unacquainted  with  the  Indian  country; 
arid  although  some  of  his  statements  were  slightly  tinctured  with 
the  prevalent  failing  of  La  Guienne,  there  was  vraisemblance 
enough  throughout  to  command  our  belief  in  their  general  accu- 
racy. In  a  country,  however,  in  which  there  is  no  legal  tribunal 
to  appeal  to,  and  into  which  the  "  king's  writ  does  not  run," 
many  acts  must  be  committed  that  would  not  stand  a  strict  in- 
vestigation in  Banco  Regis.  "  My  legal  primer,"  said  Ogden, 
"  says  that  r  'cessitv  t  is»  lo  law  ;  and  in  this  place,  where  the 
custom  of  th>.  •  u!  ,  or  at,  lawyers  say,  the  Lex  non  scripta  is 
our  only  guii>  ^"'st,  in  our  acts  of  summary  legislation, 

sometimes  pei    v,r  parts  of  judge,  jury,  sheriff,  hangman, 

gallows  and  all  1 


1 
c 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


Gnglish  river — Pass  numerous  lakes  and  rapids — Arrive  at  Cumberland  House 
— Saskachawaine  river — Lake  Winepic — Aurora  Borealis — River  Winepic— 
Meet  various  parties — Hainy  Lake  and  Fort — Death  of  an  Indian. 


J.  , 


Sunday,  June  29th.  At  half  past  eleven  a.  m.  this  day  we 
bid  adieu  to  the  humorous,  honest,  eccentric,  law-defying  Peter 
Ogden,  the  terror  of  Indians,  and  the  delight  of  all  gay  fellows. 

It  blew  pretty  fresh  during  the  day,  which  obliged  us  to  keep 
our  square-sail  closely  reefed.  We  generally  kept  from  two  to 
six  miles  from  shore,  and  occasionally  shipped  a  good  deal  of 
water.  Encamped  at  eight  p.  m.  at  the  extremity  of  he  lake. 
It  is  computed  to  be  eighteen  leagues  in  length,  and  from  three 
to  five  in  breadth,  and  is  indented  by  a  number  of  deep  bays, 
the  shores  of  which  were  at  times  scarcely  visible  with  the  naked 
eye.  A  few  islands  are  scattered  over  it,  on  which  we  observed 
immense  numbers  of  pelicans. 

June  30th.  Embarked  at  three  a.  m.  At  five  passed  the 
Portage  Sonnani,  which  was  followed  by  several  bad  rapids, 
through  which  v/e  ran  without  unloading.  At  six,  passed  Cari- 
boeuf  river,  celebrated  for  its  excellent  fish,  and  at  eight  passed 
the  Portage  de  la  Puisse,  where  we  stopped  to  breakfast  and 
repair  the  canoes.  At  half  past  two,  passed  the  Portage  des 
Anglais ;  and  at  six  crossed  Knee  Lake,  a  pretty  large  body  of 
water.  Encamped  at  eight,  at  La  Rivifere  Croche :  charming 
weather  all  day. 


h 


8TRA.ITGNBD  SUPPLIES — nANQEROUS   RAPIDS. 


271 


July  1st,  1817.  Embarked  at  three  a.  m.,  and  at  four  over- 
took the  loaded  canoes,  which  we  passed.  Crossed  Lac  du 
Sable  with  a  stiff  breeze,  and  shot  down  Les  Rapides  des  Ser- 
pens, without  unloading.  This  brought  us  into  Lac  des  Serpens, 
which  we  crossed  with  a  fair  wind  at  half  past  ten,  and  imme- 
diately entered  Lac  de  Souris  ;  at  the  end  of  which  we  break- 
fasted. Continued  on  at  noon  with  a  fine  breeze  across  Lac 
des  Epingles,  and  at  half  past  two  passed  the  portage  at  its  ter- 
mination. At  three  passed  the  Portage  des  Bouleaux,  at  which 
we  only  took  out  half  the  loading ;  and  at  four  passed  another  port- 
age, called  Le  Canot  Casse.  Shortly  after  crossed  Le  Lac 
d'Huile  d'Ours  with  a  fair  wind,  and  encamped  at  six,  a  little 
below  Le  Rapide  qui  ne  parle  point.  Four  lodges  of  the  Che- 
pewyan  Indians  were  near  our  encampment,  from  whom  we 
purchased  a  small  quantity  of  meat.  We  also  caugf'it  nine  ex- 
cellent pike.  It  rained  occasionally  during  the  evening.  cJaw 
three  moose  and  five  bears,  but  could  not  get  a  shot  at  them. 

July  2d.  On  examining  our  nets  this  morning  we  found  only 
six  pike,  a  miserable  supply  for  so  many  people.  Set  off  -'^ 
three  a.  m.  with  a  fair  wind,  and  had  tolerably  good  navigation 
until  eight,  when  we  arrived  at  the  Portage  des  Ilalliers,  at  tae 
southern  end  of  which  we  breakfasted.  At  one  passed  'n 
Portage  de  Traite :  at  two,  that  of  the  Petit  Rocher,  and  at  thi  , 
a  demi-portage  called  Les  Ecors,  where  the  lading  only  was  car- 
ried. Encamped  at  five,  at  Laviere  des  C6tes  where  we  ex- 
pected to  make  a  good  haul  with  our  nets.  We  caught  ten  pike 
during  the  day  at  the  different  portages.  Saw  two  large  bears, 
but  could  not  hit  them.     Weather  very  warm. 

July  3d.  Our  nets  this  morning  produced  thirty  white  fish, 
pike,  pickerel,  and  carp.  Embarked  at  three  a.  m.  and  crossed  Le 
Lac  du  Diable  with  a  fair  breeze.  At  six  finished  the  Portage  du 
Diable  on  the  left  side.  The  road  is  long,  crooked,  and  narrow ; 
which  accounts,  I  should  suppose,  for  the  name  given  by  the 
Canadians  to  the  portage.  A  small  lake  next  followed,  which 
brought  us  to  a  chain  of  short  ugly  rajwds  called  Les  Petits 
Diables,  down  which  we  shot  without  unloading,  but  damaged 
the  canoes  considerably.  At  the  end  of  the  last  "  Little  Devil,'^ 
we  were  obliged  to  unload  the  trading  packeiges,  &c.  At  this 
jlace  the  water  forces  its  way  through  three  small  straits  into  a 
ake  about  five  miles  long,  which  is  terminated  by  Le  Rapide  de 
'Outre,  at  the  end  of  which  we  breakfasted.  At  ten  renewed 
our  progress,  and  entered  Le  Lac  de  I'Outre,  which  brought  us 
to  a  portage  called  Le  Petit  Rocher  de  la  Montague,  which  we 
finished  at  half  past  twelve.  At  two  made  the  Portage  de  la 
Montague.  The  distance  between  the  two  portages  does  not 
exceed  half  a  mile,  and  they  derive  their  name  from  high  rocky 


1 


H  i 


Hi 


« ill. 


■^ 


1!  j!"^  iHr* 


272 


riSIIING — (OnTAGER — nOUTE   CONTINUED. 


,/! 


eminences  in  the  vicinity.  Encamped  at  five,  at  the  south  end 
of  Le  Lac  de  la  Queue  Depouillee ;  where  we  set  our  nets. 
Passed  some  fine  rising  grounds  during  the  day,  well  stocked 
with  spruce,  poplar,  birch,  cypress,  and  willow.  Near  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  we  observed  quantities  of  wild  gooseberry,  currant, 
strawberry,  blueberry,  &c. 

July  4tn.  Caught  only  twenty  carp,  pike,  and  white  fish. 
Started  at  three.  At  five  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  Riviere  au 
Rapide,  where  there  are  a  couple  of  small  houses  for  the  ren- 
dezvous of  the  people  belonging  to  Lac  la  Ronge,  a  trading 
establishment  situated  about  six  leagues  from  this  place.  As  this 
was  esteemed  a  capital  fishing  spot,  we  sent  on  the  loaded  ca- 
noes, and  remained  ourselves  here  the  remainder  of  the  day,  to 
recruit  our  stock  of  provisions.     Weather  very  sultry  all  day. 

July  5th.  Caught  only  thirty  fislr,  seventeen  of  which  were 
speared.  Embarked  at  three,  and  in  half  an  hour  afterward 
made  the  portage  of  La  Riviere  au  Rapide,  which  is  very  short. 
This  brought  us  into  a  handsome  lake,  and  at  six  made  the  Port- 
age de  I'lle,  over  a  small  island,  by  which  a  circuitous  passage 
by  the  river  is  considerably  shortened.  After  re-embarking  we 
passed  through  another  lake  interspersed  with  islands,  which 
Drought  us  to  a  narrow  rapid  channel,  through  which  we  passed 
until  we  arrived  at  Portage  de  Barril  at  eight  o'clock,  where  we 
overtook  the  loaded  canoes.  They  had  only  caught  fish  enough 
for  breakfast.  After  quitting  this  place  we  entered  another  lake  a 
few  miles  in  extent,  in  the  centre  of  which  was  a  very  bad  rapid. 
At  nine  arrived  at  another  portage  called  Le  grande  Rapide  du 
Fort  de  Traite.  It  is  the  longest  carrying-place  on  the  Eng- 
lish River.  Here  we  breakfasted  and  repaired  the  canoes. 
Caught  also  eight  good  pike.  Proceeded  on  at  eleven,  and 
crossed  Le  Lac  du  Fort  de  Traite  in  three  hours  and  a  half,  with 
rather  a  head  wind  the  greater  part  of  the  way. 

At  three  passed  the  Portage  du  Fort  de  Traite,  which  is  rather 
long.  Here  took  leave  of  the  English  River,  which,  taking  the 
name  of  Churchill,  turns  down  to  Hudbon's-Bay.  During  the 
six  days  that  we  were  sailing  down  this  river,  we  crossed  sixteen 
lakes,  and  passed  upwards  of  thirty  rapids,  at  sixteen  of  which 
we  were  obliged  to  make  portages. 

A  little  afler  three  p.  m.  entered  a  small  river  with  an  imper- 
ceptible current,  in  which  wo  had  not  proceeded  more  than  half 
a  mile,  when  it  widened  considerably,  and  presented  to  our  view 
an  extensive  prospect  of  fine  flat  country,  bounded  at  a  great 
distance  by  well- wooded  hills.  A  little  further  on,  the  channel 
again  became  quite  contracted,  and  more  difficult  to  navigate, 
owing  to  several  small  islands  interrupting  the  course  of  the  cur- 
rent.   At  one  deUwl,  we  were  obliged  to  unload  and  carry  the 


< 
t 
c 
r 

f 
c 
I 
i 

t 


«U*PLV   OF   W8H — DANOEROUa   NAYIOAtlON. 


2-73 


^ods  some  di:  :nnce.  This  brought  us  to  a  lake  which  w6 
crossed  at  half  past  four,  and  on  the  shores  of  which  we  encamp- 
ed, for  the  purpose  of  trying  to  procure  a  supper  offish.  Killed 
two  hares,  a  pair  of  ducks,  and  a  brace  of  patridges  during  the 
day,  which  we  boiled  with  trijie  du  rochcr,  a  species  of  nutritive 
moss  growing  on  the  rocks,  and  which  made  excellent  soup. 

July  6th.  Embarked  at  three.  Our  nets  only  produced  four 
fish  thifi  morning.  Entered  Lac  du  Bois  at  half  past  three,  and 
crossed  it  in  fiv  hours.  It  is  u  fine  body  of  water,  surrounded 
by  a  champaign  country,  tolerably  well  wooded.  At  the  end  of 
the  lake  made  three  small  portages,  close  to  each  other,  and 
about  two  miles  lower  down  made  half  a  portage  called  Le  De- 
charge  au  Lac  du  Bois,  all  of  which  we  completed  at  half  past 
ten  A.  M.  Mr.  Stewart's  canoe  and  mine  remained  here  the  rest 
of  the  day  to  fish ;  one  only  of  the  loaded  canoes  joined  us. 
Dined  tnd  supped  chiefly  on  tripe  de  rocher. 

July  7th.  We  caught  du.ing  the  night,  with  the  net,  linear, 
and  spears,  fifty  well-assorted  fish,  which  gave  a  tolerable  meal 
to  our  half-starved  hard-working  men.  Set  off"  at  the  usual  houn 
At  seven  crossed  Pelican  Lake,  at  which  we  stopped  to  break*- 
fast.     Here  also  we  caught  a  few  carp. 

Proceeded  on  at  nine,  and  shortly  after  arrived  at  the  head  of 
Lac  Miron,  where  we  remained  till  noon  wind-bound.  The 
weather  having  moderated  a  little,  we  embarked  about  a  quar- 
ter past  twelve,  but  had  not  reached  more  than  the  centre  of  the 
lake  when  we  were  overtaken  by  a  storm  of  thunder,  and  heavy 
rain,  accompanied  by  dreadful  squalls  from  every  quarter  of  the 
compass.  To  return  was  impossible,  and  we  continued  occa- 
sionally shipping  large  quantities  of  water,  and  momentarily 
expecting  to  be  upset  by  the  violence  of  the  storm.  We  crossed, 
however,  in  safety  ;  and  at  four,  encamped  at  the  Portage  d'Ep- 
inettes,  for  the  purpose  of  drying  ourselves,  and  spreading  the 
nets.  The  weather  continued  rainy  and  squally  during  he 
night. 

July  8th.  This  morning  only  produced  five  pike  for  the  two 
canoes.  Started  at  half  past  three.  At  four,  made  the  short 
Portage  de  I'lle;  and  at  half  past  seven  passed  the  Portage  des 
Bouleaux  dans  la  Rivifere  Creuse.  It  was  long  and  slippery, 
owing  to  the  recent  rains.  Shortly  below  it,  ran  down  a  dan- 
gerous rapid,  called  la  Carpe,  withcut  unloading,  and  were 
near  perishing,  from  the  intricacy  of  the  channel.  At  nine, 
made  the  Portage  de  la  Carpe,  at  the  end  of  which  we  break- 
fasted, repaired  thecanoes,  and  caught  twenty  white-fish  with  a 
kind  of  hook  formed  by  one  of  the  men  out  of  the  handle  of  the 
cooking-kettle.  Proceeded  on  at  noon,  through  a  clear  chan- 
nel, until  3  p.  M.,  when  we  arrived  at  the  Rapide  des  Ecorsi 

LI 


V.^r 


;.Llii.' 


t: 


274     OALE  AMD  THUNDER  STOItM — LA   RIVIERE  MALIONE. 

which  wc  shot  down  without  unloading.  At  five  mndo  the 
Portage  de  lu  Puntc,  ailer  which  a  steudy  uninterrupted  current 
brought  us,  at  hulf  past  six,  to  Lac  Castor.  Here  Mr.  Stew- 
art's canoe  took  the  lead,  and  we  continued  on  in  a  tioavy  gale 
and  thunder-storm,  until  night  overtook  ua  in  the  centre  of  the 
lakor  We  were  for  son\o  time  in  a  very  critical  situation,  owing 
to  the  darkness,  which  was  only  relieved  by  an  occasional  flash 
of  lightning.  We  at  length  approached  shore,  and  observed 
a  long,  high,  and  rocky  point,  which  it  would  be  madness  to 
attempt  to  double.  Orders  were  therefore  given  to  land  at  the 
most  practicable  part ;  and,  after  beating  about  for  some  time 
in  search  of  a  beach,  we  su'^ceeded  about  eleven  o'clock  in  run- 
ning the  canoes  into  a  small  cove  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
point.  It  rained  on  us  the  whole  night,  and  we  had  not  a 
mouthful  of  provisions.  t 

July  9th.  The  gale  continued  without  intermission  accom- 
panied by  heavy  ram  all  the  forenoon  ;  and  owing  to  our  tent 
being  in  Mr.  Stewart's  canoe,  we  were  deprived  of  any  shelter. 
About  five  p.  M.  the  weather  moderated,  and  enabled  us  to  push 
off".  We  doubled  the  point  in  safety,  after  which  we  hoisted 
sail,  and  in  holf  an  hour  afterward  joined  Mr.  Stewart,  who 
had  encamped  at  the  head  of  La  Riviere  Maligne,  where  he 
waited  our  arrival.  Stopped  here  the  remainder  of  the  day, 
being  anxious  to  ascertain  now  the  loaded  canoes  had  weathered 
out  the  gale.  The  unsettled  state  of  the  wind  prevented  us 
from  catching  any  fish,  and  we  were  obliged  to  retire  again  on 
this  night  to  our  stony  couch  supperless. 

July  10th.  Embarked  at  three  a.  m.  and  entered  La  Riviere 
Maligne.  We  had  not  proceeded  far,  when,  in  running  down 
La  Rapide  Croche,  our  canoe  came  in  contact  with  the  rocks, 
by  which  eight  ribs  were  broken,  and  it  was  otherwise  badly 
damaged.  This  delayed  us  some  time  to  repair.  After  launch- 
ing again  we  had  not  proceeded  through  more  than  two  or  three 
miles  of  smooth  water,  when  we  got  into  a  chain  of  shallow, 
crooked,  and  rocky  rapids,  in  every  one  of  which  we  sustained 
more  or  less  injury.  At  eight  a.  m.  passed  the  mouth  of  Rat 
River,  a  small  stream  ;  and  within  a  quarter  of  nine  arrived  at 
the  termination  of  La  Riviere  Maligne,  where  it  discharges  its 
waters  into  Cumberland-House  Lake.  This  river  is  most  ap- 
propriately named  by  the  Canadians ;  for  I  believe,  for  its  length, 
It  is  the  most  dangerous,  cross-grained  piece  of  navigation  in  the 
Indian  country. 

Owing  to  a  head  wind,  we  were  unable  to  proceed  until  half 
past  four  p.  M.,  when  it  veered  about  in  our  favour.  We  in- 
stantly hoisted  sail,  and  made  the  Grande  Traverse  in  three 
hours.    Encamped  at  nine  on  a  low  muddy  beach.     Caught 


RIVAL  SETTLEMENTS — MOSQUITOES. 


275 


three  small  fish,  which  were  boiled  with  some  tripe  dv  rnchar, 
and  atlbrded  a  spoonful  of  soup  to  cnch  of  the  poor  fatnished  men. 

July  11th.  Hturtcd  nt  two  a.  m.,  and  u  short  distance  a>K)vo 
our  encampment  passed  the  lodge  of  a  Hshcrman  belonging  to 
Cumberland  House,  from  whom  we  obtained  a  most  welcome 
and  seasonable  supply  of  three  prime  sturgeon.  At  four,  made 
the  Traverse  dc  I'lle  with  a  strong  side  breeze,  when  we  landed 
to  allow  time  to  our  hungry  t^i/ui^fttrs  to  regale  themselves  on 
the  fisherman's  sup[)ly.  A  roaring  fire  quickly  crackled  on  th« 
beach,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  the  sturgeon  entirely  disap- 
peared. Proceeded  on  at  six,  and  at  seven  arrived  at  (Cumberland 
House,  of  which  we  found  a  gentleman  named  Fairis  in  charge, 
who  treated  us  to  an  excellent  breakfast  oi'  tea,  fish,  and  steaks. 
Remained  here  during  the  day  to  recruit  the  men. 

At  this  period  the  rival  Companies  had  large  forts  here,  whicli 
were  well  fortified  ;  but  no  breach  of  the  pea(«  had  occurred 
during  the  winter  between  the  respective  traders.  Friendly 
intercourse  was  out  of  the  (|uestion,  and  a  suspicious  kind  of 
armed  neutrality  was  preserved  on  each  side. 

The  country  round  Cumberland  House  is  low,  with  a  rich  soil 
and  thinly  wooded.  Land  animals  are  scarce ;  but  the  lake 
furnishes  an  abundance  of  white  fish,  pike,  and  sturgeon.  A 
few  horses  are  employed  about  the  forts  chiefly  for  dofnestic 
purposes.  The  Indians  who  occasionally  visit  it,  are  a  friendly 
well-disposed  tribe,  rather  addicted  to  the  use  of  ardent  spirits. 

July  12th.  Sent  oft' the  loaded  canoes  at  one  p.  m,  ;  but  did 
not  start  ourselves  till  five,  when  we  took  our  leave  of  Mr. 
Fairis,  and  shortly  afterward  encamped  on  an  island  not  far 
from  the  fort. 

July  13th.  At  three  a.  m.  embarked,  and  entered  the  Sas- 
kachawaine  River,  a  noble  broad  stream,  with  a  strong  steady 
current,  uninterrupted  by  rapids.  According  to  Canadian  com- 
putation we  made  forty-nine  leagues  before  night  set  in.  I  doubt 
the  accuracy  of  tMis  calculation,  although  we  certainly  made 
■wonderful  progress.  The  country  on  each  side  of  the  river  k 
extremely  low,  and  totally  devoid  of  timber,  but  is  dreadfully 
prolific  in  mosquitoes.  Those  insects  swarmed  about  us  in 
such  myriads,  that  we  in  vain  attempted  to  effect  a  landing,  and 
to  preserve  the  small  quantity  of  blood  still  remaining  m  our 
veins,  were  c«^''istrained  to  pass  the  entire  night  on  the  water, 
driving  quietly  and  calmly  down  the  current  Numerous  par- 
ties, however,  of  the  enemy  occasionally  swarmed  about  our 
heads,  which  we  partially  protected  by  constant  smoking. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  14th,  we  entered  Lac  Vasp,  and 
made  the  first  traverse  in  Lac  Bourbon  with  a  lair  wind,  but  in 
the  midst  of  the  most  dangerous  swells. 


I 


;iiMi 


270 


rNEXPECTED   ARRIVAL — LAKE   WINEHC. 


The  wind  having  increased  to  a  heavy  gale,  we  were  obliged 
to  put  ashore  at  eight  o'clock  on  Martel's  island,  where  we 
were  detained  until  four  v.  in.,  when  we  were  enabled  to  pro- 
ceed. Passed  the  Grande  Traverse  of  Bourbon  Lake  in 
moderate  weather,  and  encamped  at  ten  p.  m.  on  a  low  stony 
island,  which  we  selected  in  consequence  of  its  being  free  from 
mosquitoes.  Here  we  found  several  hundred  gulls'  eggs,  on 
which  we  made  an  excellent  supper.  The  weather  for  the  last 
few  days  was  extremely  sultry,  with  thunder  and  lightning  at 
intervals.     This  night  we  found  it  rather  cool. 

July  15th.  Embarked  at  three  a.  m.  Hard  rain  during  the 
moi  iiing.  On  quitting  Bourbon  Lake  we  entered  a  long  strait 
full  of  dangerous  rapids,  which  brought  us  to  Lac  de  Travers, 
about  five  miles  in  breadth.  On  leaving  this  we  entered 
another  chain  of  dangerous  rapids,  which  finally  brought  us,  at 
seven  a.  m.,  to  the  great  rapid  of  Lac  Winepic.  This  exceeded 
by  far,  in  body  of  water  and  general  magnitude,  any  rapid  I 
liad  seen  to  the  eastward  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  canoes 
were  let  down  for  a  distance  of  three  miles  with  double  lines ; 
and  in  some  places,  where  large  rocks  projected  into  the  river, 
the  lading  was  taken  out,  and  carried  to  the  other  side  of  the 
point.  Reached  the  foot  of  the  rapid  without  any  accident,  at 
a  quarter  before  nine,  where  we  stopped  to  breakfast.  Four 
Canadian  free  trappers,  named  Montreuil,  Rac^ette,  Martin,  and 
son,  were  encamped  at  this  place  with  their  squaws.  As  it  blew 
too  hard  to  attempt  entering  Lake  Winepic,  we  pitched  our 
tents  and  partook  of  an  excellent  breakfast  with  old  Martin, 
consisting  of  cherry-tree  tea,  with  boiled  and  fried  sturgeon. 
Late  in  the  evening  we  were  agreeably  surprised  by  the  arrival 
of  a  party  bound  to  the  interior,  consisting  of  Messrs.  John  D. 
Campbell,  Alexander  M'Uonell,  Samuel  Black,  and  my  old 
Columbian  companion,  M'Kay,  with  sixteen  men,  and  two 
canoes.  They  pitched  their  tents  alongside  ours  ;  and  as  their 
garde-vips  were  tolerably  well  stocked,  we  sat  up  the  entire 
night  swallowing  the  news  which  they  brought  from  the  civil- 
ized world. 

July  16th.  Embarked  at  three  a,  m.,  having  previously  pur- 
chased from  Martin  six  sturgeon  for  each  canoe.  The  morning 
was  calm  and  cloudy  as  our  little  flotilla  entered  the  great 
waters  of  Lake  Winepic.  About  eight  o'clock  a  smart  breeze 
sprung  up,  which  enabled  us  to  hoist  sail.  At  ten  it  increased 
to  a  close-reefer,  and  we  scudded  along  for  a  couple  of  hours  in 
glorious  style  ;  at  times  two  or  three  miles  from  the  shore^ 
About  noon,  however,  the  gale  became  so  violent  that  we  were 
compelled  to  make  the  best  of  our  way  to  a  landing-place,  wher* 
■yve  pitched  our  tents  for  the  day. 


LAKE   NAVIGATION AURORA    BOREALId. 


277 


July  17th.  It  blew  a  perfect  hurricane  the  entire  day,  which 
prevented  us  from  attempting  to  embark. 

July  18th.  Shortly  after  midnight  the  gale  moderated,  and 
at  half  past  one  this  morning  we  set  off"  in  calm  weather.  About 
sunrise  a  favourable  breeze  sprang  up,  which  wafted  us  on  till 
twelve,  when  its  increasing  violence  again  obliged  us  to  seek  the 
shore,  a  few  miles  above  La  Pointe  Maligne  ;  a  long  rocky  neck 
of  land  so  called,  which  stretches  some  distance  into  the  lake, 
and  which  in  stormy  weather  is  difficult  to  double.  Remained 
here  until  six  p.  m.,  when  the  gale  having  moderated,  we  again 
embarked,  and  continued  on  all  night,  alternately  with  the  sail 
and  the  paddle. 

July  19th.  Light  fair  breezes  wafted  us  on  gently  during  the 
greater  part  of  that  day.  They  rather  impeded  than  accel- 
erated our  progress  ;  for  by  the  custom  of  voyaging,  the  pad- 
dles are  laid  aside  while  the  sail  is  hoisted,  and  the  men  very 
naturally  keep  it  up  while  the  smallest  breath  ruffles  the  water. 
At  four  passed  I'lle  de  St.  Martin  ;  and  at  eight,  encamped  at  a 
point  Culled  La  Tcte  de  Picheu.  Weather  dark  and  calm 
during  the  day. 

July  20tli.  Embarked  at  two  a.  m.,  with  a  stiff  breeze,  which 
brought  us  past  La  Tete  de  Brochet  in  fine  style.  The  wind 
having  increased  to  a  hard  gale,  we  put  ashore  at  half  past 
eleven,  at  the  south  side  of  the  Traverse  des  lies  d'Ecorce, 
which  it  would  be  dangerous  to  attempt  passing  in  stormy 
weather.  About  five  it  moderated,  and  we  continued  on  with  a 
fair  wind  all  the  evening.  The  navigation  here  being  rather 
dangerous,  and  the  weather  extremely  dark,  it  was  judged  pru- 
dent to  encamp  at  ten  p.  m.,  in  a  snug  little  cove  on  the  northern 
shore,  about  half  way  between  La  Tete  de  Chien  and  La 
Detroit  du  Dug.  The  country  all  round  was  in  a  state  of  con- 
flagration, the  smoke  from  which  was  quite  suffocating.  The 
scene  was  magnificent,  and  there  was  imparted  to  it  a  terrible 
degree  of  interest  by  the  howling  of  wolves  and  other  beasts  of 
prey,  which  the  extending  flames  forced  from  their  long-fre- 
quented haunts. 

The  Aurora  Borealis  too  appeared  in  all  its  splendid  kaleido- 
scope variety  of  forms.  At  times  a  vertical  battalion  of  strange 
figures  seemed  to  rush  in  fierce  encounter  on  a  horizontal  pha- 
lanx ;  the  whole  mass  became  mingled,  and  in  an  instant  flew 
oflf  into  rew  and  more  fantastic  shapes.  A  loud  and  crackling 
noise  ^xcasionally  struck  on  our  ears,  and  it  was  difficult  to 
determine  whether  it  proceeded  from  the  evanescent  meteors 
above,  or  the  falling  timbers  of  the  burning  forest  below. 

July  21st.  Left  our  encampment  at  half  past  two  a.  m.  ; 
and  at  five  passed  through  a  small  strait  called  Le  Detroit  dw 


^^n 


278 


VOYAOE   CONTINUED— WINEPIC    RIVER. 


>  |i  ■,  !  ' 


Due,  where  the  two  shores  approach  to  within  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  of  each  other.  Beyond  this  however  the  lake  again  widens 
to  five  leagues. 

At  ten  a  smart  breeze  sprung  up.  Met  two  Indians  (Sau- 
teus)  in  a  small  canoe  close  to  a  rocky  point  called  I.a  Tete  de 
Boeuf,  from  whom  we  purchased  a  small  quantity  of  dried  meat. 
At  noon  a  hard  gale  came  on,  accompanied  by  thunder,  heavy 
rain,  and  dangerous  squalls :  we  hf;wever  continued  on  for  some 
time  ;  but  having  shipped  a  good  deal  of  water,  we  were  forced 
to  put  ashore  a  few  miles  below  another  strait,  named  Le  Detroit 
de  la  Tete  de  Bceuf,  at  which  place  we  stopped  for  the  remain- 
der of  the  day. 

July  22d.  Embarked  at  four  a  m.,  with  a  steady  breeze, 
which  continued  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  At  noon  doubled 
La  Pointe  de  Metasse  in  a  hard  gale,  which  nearly  filled  the 
canoes.  Here  we  breakfasted,  and  at  two  p.  m.  arrived  at  Fort 
Alexander,  situate  at  the  end  of  Lake  Winepic,  and  at  the  en- 
trance of  Winepic  River.  Messrs.  Heron  and  Crebassa  were 
in  charge,  with  three  men  anr',  a  dozen  of  women. 

July  23d.  Remained  at  Fort  Alexander  until  three  p.  m., 
when  we  bid  adieu  to  our  friend  Mr.  Alexander  Stewart,  who 
was  not  to  proceed  beyond  this  place.  We  previously  sent  off 
the  loaded  canoes  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning. 

Winepic  River  is  greatly  obstructed  by  rapids  ;  at  numbers  of 
which  portages  must  be  made,  or  part  of  the  goods  unloaded. 
In  the  last  case  they  are  only  called  Decharges.  It  would  be 
tiresome  and  useless  to  give  the  various  names  by  which  the 
Canadians  distinguish  those  places.  We  passed  six  in  the  after- 
noon, and  encamped  at  dusk  at  the  head  of  Portage  des  Chenes. 

July  24th.  Set  off  at  daybreak,  and  encamped  at  seven  p.  m., 
after  having  made  five  portages  during  the  day.  In  passing 
through  Lac  de  Bonnet,  we  met  Mr.  Hughes,  a  proprietor,  who, 
with  six  men  in  a  canoe,  was  proceeding  to  Forts  des  Prairies, 
of  which  department  he  had  charge.  Weather  extremely 
sultry. 

July  25th.  Commenced  our  morning's  work  by  making  seven 
portages,  "  all  in  a  row,"  at  the  upper  end  of  which  we  stopped 
to  breakfast  and  repair  the  canoes.  Here  we  were  overtaken 
by  Mr.  Crebassa  in  a  light  canoe  with  twelve  men,  on  his  way 
to  Fort  William,  with  despatches.  Encamped  late  at  the  end 
of  Portage  Brule. 

July  26th.  We  had  much  thunder  and  torrents  of  rain  the 
greater  part  of  last  night,  by  which  o-ir  goods  and  covering 
were  quite  wet.  Remained  a  few  hours  at  the  encampment  to 
dry  our  clothes,  &c.  At  eight  a.  m.,  Mr.  Leith,  one  of  the  pro- 
prietors, accompanied  by  Lieut.  Austin  of  the  37th  foot,  with 


■M 


HIBERNUN   DESCRIPTION. 


279 


w... 


thirteen  of  his  regiment,  and  twelve  well-armed  Iroquois,  arrived 
at  our  encampment.  They  were  on  their  way  to  Red  River, 
for  the  purpose  of  arresting  all  the  delinquents  they  could  catch, 
who  had  been  concerned  in  the  recent  outrages.  We  stopped 
to  breakfast  with  them.  While  it  was  preparing,  I  asked  one 
of  the  soldiers,  (an  Irishman),  how  he  liked  the  mode  of  travel- 
ling in  that  country  ?  "  By  J ,  sir,"  he  replied,  "  it's  awk- 
ward enough.  Here  we  are  cramped  up  in  a  bit  of  a  canoe, 
put  like  chayney  gods,  with  our  muskets  and  knapsacks,  striving 
to  keep  our  clothes  and  'coutrements  clane.  We  haven't  seen  a 
sign  of  Christianity  these  two  or  three  months ;  not  a  church, 
or  chapel,  or  house,  or  garden  ;  nor  even  a  horse,  or  a  cow,  or  a 
sheep ;  nothing  during  the  entire  day ;  just  rocks,  rivers,  lakes, 
portages,  waterfalls,  and  large  forests ;  bears  roaring  a  tattoo 
every  night,  and  wolves  howling  a  reveille  every  morning.  O  ! 
to  the  devil  I  bob  it ! — Give  me  India  or  Spain,  with  all  their 
hard  fighting,  before  such  an  infernal,  outlandish,  unchristian 
country." 

Parted  from  those  gentlemen  a  little  after  nine  o'clock,  and 
shortly  after  overtook  the  brigade  of  loaded  canoes.  Passed 
two  lodges  of  Sauteus,  and  encamped  late  a  few  miles  above 
Portage  de  I'lle.     Weather  during  the  day  excessively  sultry. 

July  27th.  Embarked  at  daybreak.  About  five  a.  m.  Colo- 
nel Dickson,  and  a  gentleman  named  Gale,  passed  us  on  their 
route  to  Red  River.  Their  journey  also  was  connected  with 
the  investigation  ordered  by  the  governor  general.  About  an 
hour  afterward  we  met  Messrs.  Simon  M'Gillivray,  jun.,  and 
Roderick  M'Leod,  with  two  canoes,  bound  for  Athabasca ;  we 
remained  to  breakfast  with  them,  and  stopped  a  couple  of  hours. 
A  smacking  breeze  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day  gave  the 
men  considerable  relief  from  paddling. 

Encamped  at  seven  p.  m.  a  few  miles  below  the  Portage  des 
Rats. 

July  28th.  Passed  Rat  Portage  early.  A  few  lodges  of 
natives  were  encamped  at  it,  from  whom  we  could  purchase 
nothing.  On  quitting  this  portage  we  entered  Lac  du  Bois,  with 
tolerably  calm  weather.  We  employed  the  paddle  and  sail 
alternately,  until  one  p.  m.,  when  we  arrived  at  a  long  and  nar- 
row peninsula,  which  stretches  a  considerable  distance  into  ihe 
lake.  A  portage  was  made  across  this  point  in  a  short  time,  by 
which  the  tedious  and  circuitous  passage  round  its  extremity 
was  avoided.  We  observed  great  quantities  r  f  wild  rice  grow- 
ing here,  which  the  Canadians  called  lafolle  avoine.  Had  a  lair 
wind  all  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  at  half  past  seven,  within 
three  leagues  of  the  Grande  Traverse. 


I 


'«> 


' 


\\i\ 


V 


i 


i 


11 


:j 


sso 


FOKT  hKC   LA  TLVIE — ENTERTAINMENT^. 


■■'II 


July  29th.  Observed  some  faint  appearances  of  the  Aurora 
Borealis  during  the  night.  Set  off  at  daybreak,  and  at  ten  a.  m. 
passed  the  Grande  Traverse  with  a  light  breeze.  This  brought 
us  to  Lac  la  Pluie  River,  at  the  entrance  of  which  we  passed  a 
few  natives.  During  the  evening  passed  a  Mr.  Grant,  with  tt 
few  men,  who  were  returning  in  a  canoe  to  the  fort  at  Lac  la 
Pluie,  from  a  provision  voyage.     Encamped  at  seven  p.  m. 

July  30th.  Set  oft"  at  the  usual  hour.  At  two  p.  m.  met  Mr. 
M'Pherson,  with  a  brigade  of  eleven  loaded  canoes,  bound  for 
Athabasca.  Not  a  voyageur  in  the  whole  party,  at  the  period 
we  met  them,  could  be  accused  of  sobriety.  Encamped  at 
dusk. 

July  31st.  At  nine  a.  m,  arrived  at  the  fort  of  Lac  la  Pluie, 
in  which  we  found  a  number  of  gentlemen,  guides,  interpreters, 
and  engages ;  some  outward  bound,  and  others  belonging  to 
various  departments  destined  for  the  interior.  Among  them  'vas 
my  old  esteemed  friend,  Mr.  La  Rocque,  whose  name  frequently 
occurs  in  the  eventful  scenes  of  the  Columbia,  to  which  place 
he  was  now  about  returning  with  a  reinforcement  of  forty  men, 
principally  Iroquois  Indians,  from  Canada. 

We  remained  seven  days  at  Lac  la  Pluie,  waiting  the  arrival 
of  goods  from  Fort  William,  and  making  the  necessary  distribu- 
tion of  men,  &c.  for  the  different  trading  posts.  This  place  is  a 
considerable  depot  of  provisions ;  so  that  during  our  stey  we 
fared  sumptuously  on  cakes,  pemmican,  tea,  coffee,  wild  fowl, 
fish,  and  deer,  with  a  moderate  modicum  of  rum  and  shrub. 
We  had  two  excellent  fiddlers  ;  and  as  several  of  the  gentle- 
men had  wives,  we  got  up  three  or  four  balls,  in  which  tb«  exhi- 
larating amusement  of  the  "light  fantastic  toe"  was  kept  up  to  a  late 
hour  in  the  morning.  We  v\  alked  throngh  no  lazy  minuets  ;  we 
had  no  simpering  quadrilles  ;  no  1? ';  J  'nng  half-dying  waltzes; 
no, — ours  was  the  exer-^'se  of  he; :  <  r  v'i  light  lively  reel,  or  the 
rattling  good  old-fashioned  country  ;'.un»^c,  in  which  the  graceful 
though  untutored  movements  of  the  North-west  females  would 
have  put  to  the  blush  many  of  the  more  refined  votaries  of  Terp- 
sichore. 

Several  lodges  of  Sotoes,  or  as  the  Canadians  spell  the  word, 
Sauteus,  were  encamped  near  the  fort.  They  were  formerly  a 
very  powerful  tribe  ;  but  the  smallpox,  war,  and  rum,  have  con- 
siderably diminished  their  numbers.  They  are  greatly  addicted 
to  the  use  of  ardent  spirits,  and  make  a  point  never  to  com- 
mence a  barter  of  their  furs  until  a  suitable  quantity  of  rum 
be  given  to  them  gratuitously.  When  they  recover  from  the 
intoxication  produced  by  this  preliminary  debauch,  they  proceed 
to  business.     A  certain  portion  of  their  furs  is  set  apart  for  a 


m 


111  • 


INDIAN    ENCAMPMEW  i' — SEPARATION. 


281 


gun,  another  for  ammunition,  a  third  for  blankets,  a  fourth  for 
tomahawks  or  knives,  a  fifth  for  tobacco,  a  sixth  for  the  wants  of 
the  wife  and  children,  and  then  a  portion  for  rum. 

I  visited  the  encampment  of  this  party  after  they  had  finished 
their  trade.  The  men  were  gambling  and  drinking  to  excess. 
While  joy  sparkled  in  the  eyes  of  some,  others,  whose  losses  had 
been  great,  looked  like  demons.  A  dispute  arose  between  two 
fine  young  men  respecting  a  knife  :  oae  gave  his  antagonist  a 
blow  across  the  face,  upon  which  the  other  darted  to  his  lodge, 
seized  his  gun,  and  taking  a  deadly  aim,  shot  the  aggressor 
thro"  j!i  th ;  body.  lie  was  in  ihe  act  of  drinking  rum  out  of  a 
pint  lueasi  re  when  he  received  the  fatal  bullet.  He  did  not 
start,  no  feamre  changed,  and  lie  walked  on,  singing  a  war-song, 
carrying  the  rum  in  his  hand,  until  he  raised  his  foot  to  pass  o^'er 
the  threshold  of  his  lodge,  when  he  fell  dead  at  the  door. 

A  scene  of  indescribable  confusion  followed.  Each  warrior 
ran  for  his  gun,  dagger,  or  tomahawk,  while  the  women  and  chil 
dren  flew  towards  the  fort  for  protection.  Fearful  that  an  indis- 
criminate massacre  would  be  the  consequence,  a  number  of 
gentlemen  rushed  am  ^ng  them,  and  with  much  persuasion,  joined 
to  some  force,  succeeded  in  disarming  the  more  violent,  and 
restoring  tranquillity.  Compensation  was  ultimately  made  to 
the  relatives  of  the  deceased :  and  so  terminated  this  drunken 
homicide. 


CHAPTER  XXVH. 

Leave  Rainy  Lake — Messrs.  M'Gillivray  and  La  Rocqur — Skbtch  of  Measri. 
Wentzol  and  jM'Neill — Great  falls  of  the  mountain- -Description  of  Fort 
William,  its  inhabitants,  &c. 

Thursday,  August  7th.  At  two  p.  m.  took  our  deperture 
from  Lac  la  Pluie  for  Fort  William  in  two  light  canoes,  contain- 
ing nine  voyageurs  each.  Messrs.  Robert  Henry  and  A'exander 
M'Tavish  were  in  one  ;  and  Messrs.  Ferdinand  Wen  >/al,  Hector 
M'Neill,  and  myself,  were  in  the  other.     Mr.  La  Ftocque  tuid 

Sarty  set  off  at  the  same  time  for  the  Columbia  ;  and  Messrs. 
oseph  M'Gillivray  and   William  Henry   for  Athabasca  and 
Lesser  Slave  Lake. 

By  the  new  distribution,  I  was  deprived  of  the  pleasure  of  my 
friend  M'Tavish's  company,  which  I  much  regretted  •.  however, 
as  we  were  to  proceed  together  in  the  same  brigade  to  Canada, 
the  separation  was  infinitely  less  painful  than  that  which  I  expe- 

M  m 


..      ' 


'li' 

i' 

4    H 

!'! 


^' 


ViSAVING    OLD   FRIENDS — FELLOW-TRAVELLERS. 


£'1 1  H*| 


rienced  in  parti/ig  from  my  old  friends  M'Gillivray  and  La 
Rocque. 

We  had  spen.  muny  happy  days  together  on  the  banks  of  the 
distant  Columb'a.  Our  studies  and  amusements  were  the  same. 
We  had  suffenjd  in  common  many  privations  incident  to  that 
dangerous  dis.rict ;  and  whether  in  a  canoe  or  on  horseback, 
over  a  hit  of  backgammon  or  on  the  midnight  watch,  there  was 
a  community  of  feehng  that  pecuHarly  endeared  us  to  each  other. 
I  was  about  re-entering  the  busy  scenes  of  civilized  life,  while 
they  were  leturning  to  encounter  all  the  dangers  and  hardships 
attendant  on  a  trader's  occupation ;  and  the  pressure  therefore 
of  the  pa'.'ting  grasp  was  rendered  doubly  painful  by  *he  reflec- 
tion, that  in  all  human  probability  we  should  never  meet  again. 

Those  only  who  knew  them  as  I  did,  and  were  acquainted 
with  their  many  excellent  and  social  qualities,  "  thoir  scorn  for 
wrong,  their  zeal  for  truth,"  can  oppreciate  the  justice  of  this 
poor  tribute  to  the  manliness  of  their  character,  and  the  steady 
sincerity  of  their  friendship. 

About  an  hour  after  quitting  the  fort,  we  made  one  portage  ; 
and  shortly  after  passed  a  small  trading-post  of  Lord  Selkirk's. 

Encamped  about  six  p.  m.  on  an  island  in  the  lake. 

August  8th.  Embarked  at  half  past  one  a.  m.  Had  a  steady 
breeze  all  the  morning.  Made  several  portages.  Messrs.  H. 
Mackenzie  and  M'Lean,  of  the  North- West  Company,  passed 
us  on  their  way  to  Winepic  River,  and  shortly  after  we  met  six 
canoes  belonging  to  the  Hudson's-Lay  Company,  twenty-five 
days  from  Point  Meuron,  bound  to  the  interior.  Parsed  several 
Indian  encampments,  at  which  we  procured  a  quantity  of  wild 
rice.  This  we  boiled  and  took  in  preference  to  the  sturgeon  we 
were  fiirnished  with  at  the  fort,  and  which  had  now  a  very 
mauvaise  odeur.  Encamped  alone  this  evening,  in  consequence 
of  Messrs.  H :.  ry  and  M'Tavish  having  very  good-naturedly  gone 
on  ahead,  and  leit  us  to  manage  matters  as  well  as  we  could.  It 
was  not,  however,  with  tny  friend  M'Tavish's  consent  that  we 
were  left  behind  ;  for  I  knew  he  would  have  preferred  remaining 
with  us,  lipd  his  own  wishes  been  consulted  ;  but  when  any  of 
the  littli^  great  men  of  the  North-West  obtain  a  command,  they 
imag'ne  they  have  no  legitimate  method  of  showing  their  tempo- 
r,/jy  u<iper*'vri{.y,  but  by  leaving  their  subordinate  officers  as  far 
f  j(.  arncre  ks  o^tssible. 

T  der ivod  rn  j  ;h  pleasure  from  the  conversation  of  my  two  new 
compagnan'  Ic  i  <■, tage,  Messrs.  Wentzel  and  M'Neill.  The  former 
had  been  I'pvvarci"  of  sixteen  years  in  the  Indian  country,  princi- 
pally in  Ine  Hepartaient  of  Athabasca,and  had  obtained  a  thorough 
knowledgi  of  the  niaiiners,  customs,  and  language  of  the  natives 
cf  that  qvi  rter.     He  was  an  active,  enterprising  trader;  but, 


BIOGRAPHICAL   SKETCH — WARLIKE    CHARACTER. 


283 


having  no  family  connexions  to  place  his  claims  in  the  prominent 
point  of  view  which  they  ought  to  occupy,  and  being  moreover 
of  an  honest  unbending  disposition,  his  name  was  struck  out  of  the 
house-list  of  favourite  clerks  intended  for  proprietors,  and  he 
had  the  vexation  to  see  many  young  men  promoted  over  his 
head,  several  of  whom  had  never  slept  a  night  with  a  hungry 
stomach,  or  seen  a  shot  fired  in  anger.  Disgust  followed  disap- 
pointment, and  he  was  now  proceeding  to  Canada,  determined, 
if  justice  were  not  rendered  him  by  the  directors,  to  quit  the 
service  of  the  Company  for  ever.* 

M'Neill  belonged  to  a  highly  respectable  family  in  the  north 

of  Ireland,  and  had  at  an  early  age  entered  the regiment 

of  foot  as  an  ensign.  Owing,  however,  to  a  serious  quarrel 
with  his  commanding  officer,  he  was  obliged  to  quit  the  service  ; 
and  being  too  proud  to  seek  any  assistance  from  his  relatives, 
whom  he  had  reason  to  suspect  were  displeased  at  his  conduct, 
he  re-entered  the  army  as  a  private  soldier.  He  was  quickly 
appointed  a  sergeant,  and  behaved  with  distinguished  bravery 
throughout  the  peninsular  campaigns,  in  which  he  was  twice 
wounded.  After  the  battle  of  the  Pyrenees  he  was  promoted 
to  the  rank  of  sergeant-major ;  and  upon  the  termination  of  hos- 
tilities in  the  south  of  France,  his  regiment,  with  others,  were 
ordered  from  Bourdeaux  to  Canada.  His  American  services 
were  of  short  duration.  Peace  speedily  followed  Sir  George 
Prevost's  disgraceful  retreat  from  Plattsburg,  and  the  battalion 
to  which  M'Neill  belonged  was  ordered  to  be  disbanded.  This 
unwelcome  intelligence  reached  him  at  a  period  when  he  had 
every  reason  to  hope  that  he  would  have  been  speedily  restored 
to  his  former  rank.  Not  wishing  to  return  home,  he  preferred 
accepting  his  discharge  in  Canada,  where  he  was  shortly  after 
introduced  to  one  of  the  agents  of  the  North- West  Company, 
which  then  stood  in  need  of  a  few  fighting  characters,  to  make 
a  stand  against  the  encroachments  of  their  rivals. 

M'Neill's  face  was  in  itself  a  letter  of  recommendation.  His 
countenance  was  a  ruddy  bronze,  with  a  noble  nose  of  the  Nassau 
cut,  a  superb  pair  of  full-blown  Cossack  whiskers,  and  an  inter- 
esting transverse  sabre-wound  over  his  right  eye.  .  Valour  was 
then  at  a  premium,  and  M'Neill's  character,  joined  to  his  war- 
like visage,  at  once  secured  him  a  handsome  engagement.  On 
his  arrival  in  the  interior,  an  opportunity  quickly  offered  for  try- 
ing his  hand  at  his  old  profession.  He  was  despatched  with  a 
few  men  to  intercept  a  party  of  Indians  who  were  loaded  with 
furs,  in  order  to  prevent  them  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  Hud- 
son's-Bay  Company.     He  found,  however,  that  he  had  been 

"*  This  gentleman  is  the  same  whose  name  so  frequently  occurs  in  Captain 
Franklin's  Journal. 


li 


h 


li 


rf 


Pi 


If 


^. " 


If 


!•'   I 


* 


284 


DVELS — ROUTE   CpNTHfUED. 


anticipated  by  a  clerk  of  the  latter  establishment.  Warm  word* 
took  place  between  them,  and  a  duel  was  the  consequence. 
M'NeiU  drove  a  ball  through  his  adversary's  hat,  and  there  the 
affair  ended.  Some  lime  after  he  was  engaged  in  two  broad- 
sword encounters,  in  which  he  wounded  one  of  his  opponents, 
and  disarmed  the  other.  His  fame  sof)n  became  established ; 
and  wherever  ho  appeared,  opposition  vanished. 

A  year  of  inactivity  followed  his  first  campaign  ;  and  as  no 
fighting  reinforcement  appeured  among  the  ranks  of  the  enemy, 
he  became  dist  tisfied  with  his  situation.  A  quarrel  occurred 
between  him  and  the  proprietors.  He  alleged  that  he  was 
badly  treated,  and  did  not  experience  the  attention  to  which  he 
considered  himself  justly  entitled  ;  while  the  latter  stated,  that 
his  unruly  conduct  was  a  terrible  example  of  insubordination  to 
all  the  younger  clerks  in  the  establishment ;  and  that  in  his 
bearing  to  Ins  superiors,  he  showed  more  of  the  major  than  of 
the  sergeant-major. 

Without  stopping  to  inquire  upon  whom  the  greater  share  of 
blame  rested,  it  is  sufficient  to  say,  that  the  gentlenen  of  the 
interior  were  graciously  pleased  to  dispense  with  his  services  a 
year  before  the  termination  of  his  engagement,  and  generously 
allowed  him  the  full  amount  of  his  salary  for  the  entire  period. 
He  was  now  on  his  way  to  Canada,  uncertain  as  to  bis  future 
course  of  life  ;  but  so  strongly  imbued  with  a  dislike  of  the  In- 
dian country,  that  he  swore  he  would  rather  carry  a  halberd  all 
his  life,  than  roll  in  a  coach  and  four  obtained  by  cheating  the 
poor  Indian?. 

August  9th,  Embarked  at  half-past  three  a.  m.  Made  four 
portages  during  the  day,  and  passed  a  few  Sotoes  in  canoes. 
Ea^.arked  at  eight  o'clock  in  Lac  d'Eturgeon.  The  scenery, 
since  we  left  Lac  la  Pluie,  is  much  more  diversified  with  woods 
and  rising  grounds,  than  below  that  establishment.  Weather 
verj/  warm  for  the  last  three  days. 

August  10th.  At  eight  a.  m.  made  the  Portage  des  Deux 
Rivieres,  and  at  nine,  that  of  Les  Morts,  at  which  we  break- 
fasted. Arrived  at  the  Portage  des  Frantjais  at  half  past  one 
p.  M.  and,  owing  to  its  length,  and  bad  pathway,  did  not  finish  it 
nntil  half  past  seven.  Encamped  at  dusk  at  the  entrance  of 
Riviere  des  Franqais.  Had  a  great  deal  of  thunder  and  heavy 
rain  during  the  afternoon. 

August  11th.  Made  the  Portage  de  la  Pente  at  ten  a.  m.  At 
noon  passed  the  Portage  des  Barrils,  and  entered  Mille  Lac 
with  a  fair  breeze.  At  five  p.  m.  passed  an  uninhabited  house, 
built  last  year  for  a  trading- post  by  order  of  Lord  Selkirk.  En- 
camped at  eight,  in  a  handsome  savanna,  close  to  a  river  which 
takes  its  name  from  the  place  (La  Savanne). 


im 


RENCOUNTER FI0TCRESQUE    SCENERY. 


285 


August  12th.  Started  rt  daybreak.  At  ten  met  an  old  guide, 
named  Joseph  Paul,  in  charge  of  a  brigade  of  seven  loaded 
canoes  destined  for  English  River.  At  eleven,  arrived  at  Sa- 
vanna portnge,  which  we  did  not  finish  until  three  v.  m.  At  five 
Eassed  the  Portage  de  Milieu ;  at  which  we  met  a  single  canoe 
eavily  laden,  destined  for  the  Red  River.  At  dusk  we  made 
the  Portage  de  la  Prairie,  and  encamped  on  '  a  shores  of 
another  Lac  Froid ;  a  small  body  of  clear  water,  so  called 
from  its  extreme  frigidity. 

August  13th.  Found  the  air  very  chilly  during  the  night, 
which  some  of  our  Canadian  Savons  attributed  to  the  proximity 
of  Lac  Froid.  A  lieavy  dew  also  fell.  Embarked  at  half  past 
four ;  and  at  half  past  five  made  the  Portage  de  TEau  Froide, 
the  air  round  which  we  found  extremely  cold.  We  continued 
down  a  chain  of  small  rapids,  in  one  of  which  we  were  obliged 
to  unload.  After  this  we  descended  a  small  river,  with  low 
banks,  and  a  smooth  current ;  in  which,  at  three  r.  m.,  we  met 
Messrs.  John  George  M'Tavish  and  J.  Thompson  on  their  way 
to  the  interior.  Encamped  at  seven  at  Lac  des  Chiens,  where 
we  were  joined  by  a  M"  Connolly,  a  senior  clerk,  for  many 
years  in  charge  of  one  of  the  principal  trading-posts  in  the  inte- 
rior. We  encamp,"d  together ;  and  he  invited  us  to  his  tent, 
where  we  made  a  sensible  impression  on  the  contents  of  a  well- 
stocked  garde-vin.  This  gentleman  left  Ireland  when  a  boy, 
with  his  family,  who  settled  in  Canada.  He  had  at  this  period 
been  seventeen  years  in  the  (/ompany's  service,  and  was  to  be 
elected  a  partner  the  following  year.  He  was  un  veritable  bon 
gargon,  and  an  Emeralder  of  the  first  water. 

August  14th.  At  four  a.  m.  parted  from  our  worthy  host  of 
the  tent,  when  each  pursued  his  different  route.  At  six,  met  Mr. 
Duncan  M'Dougall  proceeding  to  Winepic  River  in  a  loaded 
canoe.  We  stopped  a  couple  of  hours  with  him,  and  breakfasted 
together.  This  gentleman  had  been  one  of  the  directors  of  the 
late  Pacific  Fur  Company,  and  had  consequently  joined  the 
North- West.  He  was  one  of  our  party  crossing  the  mountains  ; 
but  at  the  English  River,  he  set  off  in  a  light  canoe  with  Mr. 
Bethune  for  Fort  William,  from  which  place  he  was  now  return- 
ing to  his  winter-quarters. 

Came  to  the  termination  of  tlie  lake  about  eleven  o'clock,  and 
finished  the  Portage  des  Chiens  at  noon.  The  country  about 
this  place  is  very  handsome,  and  the  view  from  the  rising  grounds 
about  the  portage  highly  picturesque  and  diversified.  At  one, 
passed  another  portage,  called  Le  Petit  Chien ;  and  in  the  course 
of  the  evening  passed  several  rapids,  at  six  of  which  we  were 
obliged  to  unload  and  let  the  canoes  down  with  the  line.  En- 
camped at  dusk  at  the  Portage  des  Cedres.    From  Lac  des 


m 


.lie 

f 
'■'i. 


'.i 


I' 


386 


CATARACTS RAPIDS FORT   WILLIAM. 


Chiens  the  country  assumes  quite  a  hilly,  and  in  some  places  a 
mountainous  appearance.  Tlie  timber  too,  particularly  the  pine 
and  spruce,  becomes  much .  larger,  and  nearly  approaches  the 
magnitude  of  tlie  trees  on  the  Columbia. 

August  15th.  At  fivo  A.  M.  njade  the  Portage  de  I'lle ;  pre- 
vious to  which  we  were  obliged  to  unload  at  two  rapids.  At 
eight  made  the  Portage  Ecarte  ;  and  soon  after,  a  loud  and 
roaring  noise  announced  our  approach  to  the  great  falls  of 
Portage  de  la  Montague,  which  we  reached  a  little  before  ten 
o'clocK. 

This  stupendous  cataract  is  second  only  to  Niagara.  It  is  one 
hundred  and  fifty-six  feet  in  height,  and  upwards  of  two  hun- 
dred in  breadth.  The  river,  in  its  advance  to  the  fall,  moves 
slowly  and  majestically  forward  until  its  course  is  interrupted  by 
a  huge  mass  of  rough  craggy  rocks,  over  whose  dark  gray  front 
it  rushes  with  a  tremendous  noise  resembling  distant  thunder. 

We  stopped  to  breakfast  at  the  foot  of  the  cataract,  the  spray 
from  which  dashed  over  us.  It  was  a  melancholy-looking  spot. 
The  morning  was  dark  and  cloudy,  and  not  a  ray  of  sunshine 
appeared  to  enliven  the  dread  abyss ;  owing  to  which  circum- 
stance, and  the  banks  on  each  side  being  high,  rocky,  and  thickly 
wooded,  we  were  deprived  of  seeing  that  beautiful  phenomenon 
of  the  prismatic  rainbow,  so  often  observed  at  Niagara  and  other 
great  falls.  The  scene  was  one  of  sombre  grandeur  ;  and,  how- 
ever it  might  have  been  relished  by  a  philosopher,  or  an  embryo 
Demosthenes,  was  well  calculated  to  damp  the  animal  spirits  of 
the  most  vivacious  disciple  of  Momus. 

For  six  leagues  below  this  cataract  there  is  a  chain  of  shallow 
rapids,  down  which  we  had  to  pass  the  canoes  with  the  cod- 
lines.  Encamped  late  at  the  foot  of  the  last  rapid,  without  a 
mouthful  of  any  substance  for  dinner  or  supper  ;  indeed  we  had 
been  in  a  starving  state  for  the  last  four  days,  having  had  only 
a  scanty  meal  per  diem.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  met  a 
brigade  of  loaded  canoes,  bound  for  Forts  des  Prairies,  and 
another  for  Lac  la  Pluie. 

August  16th.  Embarked  at  daybreak ;  and  at  six  passed 
Point  Meuron,  one  of  Lord  Selkirk's  establishments,  so  called 
from  a  number  of  De  Meuron's  regiment  having  been  employed 
in  building  it.  The  situation  is  handsome  ;  but  the  settlement 
consists  off  a  few  straggling  huts,  miserably  provided  with  the 
common  necessaries  of  life. 

At  eight  o'clock  we  arrived  at  Fort  William,  as  the  welcome 
sound  of  the  breakfast-bell  was  summoning  the  inmates  to  their 
morning's  repast.  We  instantly  repaired  to  the  iaalle  a  manger, 
and  over  a  bowl  of  coffee,  fresh  eggs,  excellent  hot  cakes,  and 
prime  cold  venison,  quickly  forgot  Ov "  late  privations. 


COMPANY    AT    PORT   WILLIAM. 


287 


Fort  William  is  the  great  emporium  for  the  interior.  An  ex- 
tensive assortment  ol'  iucrrhaii<h.se  is  annually  brought  hither 
from  Montreal,  by  laige  canoes,  or  the  Company's  vesaels  on 
the  lakes,  which,  in  return,  brinj;  clown  the  produce  of  the  win- 
tering postH  to  Canada,  from  whenc«!  it  is  shipped  for  England. 
A  number  of  the  partners  and  clerks,  whose  turn  of  rotation  has 
not  arrived  lor<^oingto  Montreal,  assen\ble  here  every  summer, 
and  dep(  tc  the  furs  which  they  pureliuse  during  the  winter, 
when  the\  obtain  u  fresh  sup()ly  of  trading  goods  for  the  ensuing 
season.  Those  on  their  way  fn  Canada  also  remain  some  time 
previo  IS  to  their  final  departure.  In  addition  to  these,  one  or 
two  of  the  principal  directors,  and  several  clerks,  come  up  every 
spring  from  Montreal  to  make  the  necessary  changes,  and  super- 
intend the  distribution  of  the  mirehandise  for  the  wintering 
parti(!s.  Fort  "William  may  therefore  be  looked  upon  as  the 
metropolitan  post  of  the  interior,  and  its  fashionable  season 
generally  continues  from  the  latter  end  of  May  to  the  latter  end 
of  August.  During  this  period,  good  living  and  festivity  pre- 
dominate ;  and  the  luxuries  of  the  dinner-table  compensate  in 
some  degree  for  the  long  fasts  and  short  commons  experienced 
by  those  who  are  stationed  in  the  remote  posts.  The  voyageurs 
too  enjoy  their  carnival,  and  between  rum  and  baubles  the 
hard-earned  wages  of  years  are  often  dissipated  in  a  few  weeks. 

We  arrived  too  late  to  see  Fort  William  in  its  prime.  A 
great  portion  of  the  interior  aristocracy  had  departed  for  their 
winter  destinations  ;  and  most  of  those  outward-bound  had  set 
off  before  our  arrival.  A  small  portion  of  respectability,  how- 
ever, remained  ;  and  during  the  two  days  that  we  stopped,  our 
time  was  passed  agreeably  enough. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  the  company  who  as-embled  at  the 
dinner-table :  viz.  Messrs.  John  M'Donald  (le  Borgne*),  Hal- 
dane,  Ronald  Cameron,  James  Grant  (le  Borgne),  and  Doctor 
M'Loughlin.  The  above  comprised  all  the  members  of  the  pro- 
prietory present ;  the  doctor  having  two  shares  in  consequence 
of  long  services,  and  being  resident  physician  at  the  fort. 

Among  the  clerks  were,  Captain  R.  M'Kenzie,  nearly  fifty 
years  of  age,  twenty-five  of  which  he  had  spent  in  the  Indian 
country ;   Mr,  Crebassil,  also  a  North- Wester  of  twenty-five 

Jreoxs  standing,  who  was  now  on  his  way  to  Canada  to  abide 
lis  trial,  on  certain  charges  preferred  against  him  by  some  of 
Lord  Selkirk's  agents ;  Mr.  Wentzel,  my  travelling  companion, 
of  whom  I  have  already  spoken  ;  Mr.  Cummings,  thirteen  years 
in  the  Company's  service,  and  presiunptive  heir  to  a  partnership ; 
Mr.  Alexander  M'Tavish,  from  the  Columbia,  going  to  Canada 

*  So  called  by  the  Canadians,  owing  to  the  gentleman  haring  lost  one  eye. 


i\ 


^, 


%^  V  ^ 


^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


t  ^,% 


K<^ 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


ut  Ui   12.2 
2.0 


III 

lU 

u 


IE 


O^ 


7 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STRiET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MStO 

(716)  872-4503 


BVILUINOS   AT  THE   FOBT. 


»* 


from  ill  health ;  Mr.  Hector  M'Neill,  from  Athabasca,  quitting 
the  country  in  consequence  of  having  no  one  to  fight  with. 
There  were  also  from  the  establishment  in  Montreal,  Messrs. 
Grant,  M'Robb,  Cowie,  M'Lean,  and  Robinson ;  and  at  the  end 
of  the  table  a  long  list  of  worthies,  consisting  of  hieroglyphic 
clerks,  interpreters,  and  guides,  who  are  looked  upon  as  war- 
rant oncers,  and  at  head-quarters  are  permitted  to  dine  with 
the  mess. 

The  dining-hall  is  a  noble  apartment,  and  sufficiently  capa- 
cious to  entertain  two  hundred.  A  finely  executed  bust  of  the 
Lte  Simon  M'Tavish  is  placed  in  it,  with  portraits  of  various 
proprietors.  A  full-length  likeness  of  Nelson,  together  with  a 
splendid  painting  of  the  battle  of  the  Nile,  also  decorate  the 
walls,  and  were  presented  by  the  Hon.  William  M'Gillivray  to 
the  Company.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  hall  there  is  a  very 
large  map  of  the  Indian  country,  drawn  with  great  accuracy  by 
Mr.  David  Thompson,  astronomer  to  the  Company,  and  com- 
prising all  their  trading-post?,  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  from  Lake  Superior  to  Athabaf'ca  and  Great  Slave 
Lake. 

This  immense  territory  is  very  little  known,  except  to  those 
connected  with  ^he  Company ;  and  if  it  did  not  interfere  with 
their  interests,  the  publication  of  Mr.  Thompson's  map  would 
prove  a  most  valuable  addition  to  our  geographical  knowledge 
of  the  interior  of  that  great  continent. 

The  buildings  at  Fort  'William  consist  of  a  large  house,  in 
which  the  dinmg-hall  is  situated,  and  in  which  the  gentleman 
in  charge  resides ;  the  council-house ;  a  range  of  snug  buildings 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  people  from  the  interior ;  a  larse 
counting-house ;  the  doctor's  residence  ;  extensive  stores  for  the 
merchandise  and  furs ;  a  forge ;  various  work-shops,  with 
apartments  for  the  mechanics,  a  number  of  whom  are  always 
stationed  here.  There  is  also  a  prison  ^or  rp%ictory  voyageurs. 
The  whole  is  surrounded  by  wooden  to^tifications,  fiianked  by 
bastions,  and  is  sufficiently  strong  to  withstand  any  attack  from 
the  natives.  Outside  the  fort  is  a  shipyard,  in  which  the  Com- 
pany's vessels  on  the  lake  are  built  and  repaired.  The  kitchen- 
garden  is  well  stocked,  and  there  are  extensive  fields  of  Indian 
com  and  potatoes.  There  are  also  several  head  of  cattle,  with 
sheep,  hogs,  poultry,  &c.,  and  a  few  horses  for  domestic  use. 

The  country  about  the  fort  is  low,  with  a  rich  moist  soil.  The 
air  is  damp,  owing  to  frequent  rains,  and  the  constant  exhalation 
from  Lake  Superior.  This  produces  agues ;  and  numbers  of 
the  people  who  have  wintered  here,  have  been  more  or  less 
afflicted  with  that  troublesome  disorder. 

In  addition  to  the  persons  whose  names  I  have  already  men- 


•m 


MIXTURK   OF  NATIONS— OBSERVATORY. 


289 


use. 


tioned,  we  also  found  at  Fort  William,  Captain  Miles  M'Don- 
nell,  a  gentleman  connected  with  Lord  Selkirk's  establishment, 
in  the  custody  of  a  constable  named  Fitzpatrick,  on  certain 
charges  preferred  against  him  by  some  members  of  the  North- 
West  Company,  and  for  which  he  was  about  to  be  conducted  to 
Canada.  There  was  also  a  Mr.  Joillette,  a  notary  from  Assump- 
tion, who  came  up  as  secretary  to  the  commissioners,  Messrs. 
Coltman  and  Fletcner ;  by  the  latter  of  whom  he  was  discharged 
from  his  functions,  and  was  now  waiting  for  a  passage  to  Mont- 
real. Besides  the  above,  there  were  a  subaltern's  detachment  of 
the  70th  foot,  and  a  number  of  disbanded  soldiers,  who  had 
belonged  to  De  Meuron's  regiment,  and  who  were  ready  and 
willing  to  cut  the  throats  of  all  persons  opposed  to  the  interest 
of  their  employers. 

Most  part  of  the  voyageurs,  soldiers,  Indians,  half-breeds,  &c., 
were  encamped  outside  the  fort  in  tents,  leathern  lodges,  mat- 
covered  huts,  or  wigwams.  On  inquiry,  I  ascertained  that  the 
aggregate  number  of  the  persons  in  and  about  the  establishment 
was  composed  of  natives  of  the  following  countries :  viz.  Eng- 
land, Ireland,  Scotland,  France,  Germany,  Italy,  Denmark, 
Sweden,  Holland,  Switzerland,  United  States  of  America,  the 
Gold  Coast  of  Africa,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Bengal,  Canada, 
with  various  tribes  of  Indians,  and  a  mixed  progeny  of  Creoles, 
or  half-breeds.  What  a  strange  medley  ! — Here  "Asre  assem- 
bled, on  the  shores  of  this  inland  sea.  Episcopalians,  Presbyte- 
rians, Methodists,  sun- worshippers,  men  from  all  parts  of  the 
world,  and  whose  creeds  were  "  wide  as  the  poles  asunder," 
united  in  one  common  object,  and  bowing  down  before  the 
same  idol.* 

An  observatory  (rather  a  crazy  structure)  stands  in  the  court- 
yard of  the  fort.  From  it  the  eye  takes  in  an  extensive  view 
of  flat  country,  thickly  wooded,  with  the  bold  shores  of  Thunder 
Island  at  a  distance,  rising  abruptly  out  of  Lake  Superior; 
while  immediately  around  the  fort  the  scene  was  enlivened  by 
animating  groups  of  women,  soldiers,  voyageurs,  and  Indians, 
dancing,  singing,  drinking,  and  gambling ;  in  their  features  com- 
prising all  the  shades  of  the  human  species,  and  in  their  dress, 
all  the  varied  hues  of  the  rainbow. 

*  We  had  one  East-Indian  from  Bengal,  two  negroes,  and  the  De  Meurons 
w«re  a  mixture  of  nearly  every  nation  in  Europe. 


^ 


y  men- 


290 


VOYAGE  ON  LAXS  8VPKRIOK. 


,'     j**-**- 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


Enter  Lako  Superior — St.  Mary's  Falli — Sketch  of  Mr.  Johnston— Lak« 
Huron — French  River — Lake  Nipising — Arrive  on  the  Ottawa — A  back- 
woodsman— Chaudidre  Falls — Hull — Longue  Sault — Mr.  Grant — Laugh- 
able mistake— Mr.  M'Donald  Le  Pr«trc— .Mr.  M'Gilles— Snyder's  Tavam — 
Lake  of  the  two  mountains — La  Chine — Arrive  at  Montreal. 

AvovsT  18th.  Received  our  sailing  orders  and  provisions  for 
our  voyage  last  night ;  and  at  six  this  morning  took  our  depar- 
ture from  Fort  William,  in  company  with  a  brigade  of  loaded 
canoes.  Messrs.  Wentzel,  M'Neill,  and  I  travelled  in  the 
same  canoe.  The  day  was  remarkably  warm  and  calm.  Our 
route  lay  along  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  and  we 
encamped  at  seven  p.  m.  on  a  stony  beach.  The  country 
appeared  to  be  generally  high  and  rocky.  Some  handsome 
open  spots  were  visible  at  intervals  along  shore ;  and  other 
parts  were  thickly  wooded. 

August  19th.  This  day  was  also  calm,  and  we  continued  on 
with  the  paddle  until  dusk,  when  we  put  ashore  in  a  small  bay. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  land  was  rocky,  diversified,  how- 
ever, by  several  beautiful  (situations  admirably  calculated  for 
settlements. 

August  20th.  Embarked  at  daybreak.  The  shores  appeared 
higher,  and  were  indented  with  larger  bays  than  we  had  yet 
seen.  We  had  several  slight  showers.  About  noon  it  came  on 
to  blow  rather  fresh,  and  at  two  p.  m.  we  were  obliged  to  put 
ashore  from  the  violence  of  the  gale,  which  kept  us  stationary 
the  remainder  of  the  day. 

August  21st.  Started  at  three  a.  m.  At  six  a  hard  bieexe 
sprung  up,  accompanied  by  heavy  rain ;  and  as  the  lowering 
appearance  of  the  clouds  portended  no  favourable  change,  we 
put  ashore  at  ten  o'clock  at  one  of  the  Company's  trading-posts, 
called  Le  Pic.  The  house  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  snurcs 
of  a  small  bay.  A  proprietor  was  in  charge.  He  was  on  the 
beach  when  we  approached  in  shore ;  and  on  seeing  us  disem- 
bark, he  turned  on  his  heei  and  retreated  into  the  fort  This 
movement  foreboded  any  thing  but  a  hospitable  reception ;  and 
we  therefore  pitched  our  tent,  and  prepared  for  breakfast.  As 
Wentzel  had  formerly  known  him,  he  paid  him  a  visit;  but 
M'Neill  and  I  preferred  remaining  in  the  tent,  from  which  no 
friendly  invitation  offered  to  dislodge  us. 

Between  one  and  two  p.  m.  the  rain  ceased,  as>d  enabled  us 
to  quit  the  dominions  of  the  surly  landlord  of  the  Pic.    A  stiff 


.■*-'% 


KBNCOCNTBK— OBlTEBOCfl   ■^tTlRTAlNMSNT. 


301 


breeze  wafted  us  on  rhpidly  the  remainder  of  the  day,  and  we 
encamped  late  in  a  small  bay.  After  leaving  the  Pic  the  uhores 
appeared  quite  rocky,  with  little  timber,  and  the  interior  moun- 
tainous. 

August  22d.  Had  a  strong  breeze  all  day,  which  at  half-past 
four  p.  M.  brought  us  to  the  River  de  la  Chienne,  close  to  the 
great  bay  of  Michipicoten,  to  cross  which  in  stormy  weather  is 
rather  hazardous.  We  therefore  encamped  at  the  river,  where 
we  remained  all  night.  During  the  day  we  passed  several 
islands,  which,  like  the  northern  shore  of  the  lake,  are  rocky ; 
they  are  also  thinly  wooded,  and,  as  the  voyageurs  told  me, 
possess  a  very  unprixluctive  soil. 

August  23d.  Rose  at  three  ;  but  the  threatening  aspect  of 
the  clouds  deterred  us  from  embarking  until  half  past  four  a.  m., 
when  we  commenced  crossing  the  bay,  or  as  the  voyageurs  called 
it,  the  Grande  Traverse  de  Michipicoten.     We  made  use  of  the 

Saddle  and  the  sail  by  turns,  and  finished  the  traverse  in  five 
ours.  At  noon  arrived  at  a  point  called  Gargue  en  trois,  from 
which  a  strong  breeze  brought  us,  at  half  past  four,  to  Montreal 
island,  on  which  we  encamped.  The  northern  coast  more  rocky 
and  mountainous  than  yesterday. 

August  24th.  Embarked  at  four,  in  calm  weather,  which 
about  seven  increased  to  a  breeze,  that  brought  us  on  rapidly 
till  ten,  when  it  obliged  us  to  land  at  Point  Mamas.  Here  we 
overtook  Mr.  Fletcher,  a  barrister  and  superintendant  of  police 
at  Quebec.  This  gentleman  had  been  appointed  by  the  gover- 
nor-general joint  commissioner  with  Mr.  Coltman,  to  inquire 
into  the  causes  of  the  various  affrays  between  the  two  Compa- 
nies, and  was  now  on  his  way  to  Canada  with  the  result  of  his 
mission.  We  remained  wind-bound  at  this  place  until  three 
V.  M.,  when  the  gale  moderating,  we  continued  on  in  company 
with  Mr.  Fletcher.  Encamped  at  dusk  at  the  opening  of  the 
bay  of  Batchiwina,  one  of  the  most  extensive  mlets  on  the 
northern  shores  of  Lake  Superior.  Mr.  Fletcher  invited  us  to 
his  tent,  which  was  plentifully  stocked  with  Unites  Its  bonnes 
ehoses  calculated  to  render  travelling  in  such  a  country  very 
agreeable;  and  as  our  Fort  William  supply  of  luxuries  was 
rather  in  a  consumptive  state,  this  gentleman  in  the  kindest  man- 
ner helped  us  most  liberally  from  his  store. 

From  Point  Mamas  to  this  place  the  shore  is  rather  low,  and 
much  less  rugged  than  any  part  we  had  hitherto  seen. 

August  25th.     Embarked  at  daybreak  with  a  fair  breeze,  and 
made  the  traverse  of  the  Batchiwina,  without  using  a  paddle.* 

*  This  ii  a  dangerous  traverse.  The  year  before,  as  Mr.  Kenneth  Macken- 
xie  and  fourteen  men  were  crossing  it  in  a  gale  of  wind,  under  heavy  sail,  their 
canoe  upiet,  and  that  gentlemaa  and  ten  of  the  voyageun  were  oiubrtunatelj 
drowned. 


"i!-'^ 


u 


292 


ST.  mart's  falls — BIOOBAPBICAL  BX11TC9. 


At  Oh  p.  M.  doubled  a  cape  called  by  the  Canadians  La  Orot 
Cap,  at  wiiich  place  the  lake  suddenly  narrows  to  little  better 
than  a  mile  in  breadth.  The  country  on  both  sides  is  low  and 
well  wooded. 

At  five  p.  M.  arrived  at  St.  Mary's  Falls,  or,  as  the  Canadians 
name  the  place,  I^e  Saut  de  Sainte  Marie,  at  which  Lake  Su- 
perior terminates,  and  discharges  its  waters  into  Lake  Huron. 
The  North* West  Company  had  extensive  stores  at  this  place,  of 
which  a  Mr.  Kennedy  had  charge.  Mr.  Fletcher  stopped  with  us 
at  the  Company's  house,  where  we  had  an  excellent  dinner  of 
fish,  wild-fowl,  and  deer. 

"rhe  southern  side  of  St.  Mary's  forms  part  of  the  territory  of 
the  United  States  ;  the  northern  belongs  to  Great  Britain.  On 
the  American  side  there  are  several  settlements,  in  consequence 
of  which  the  North- Westers  regard  this  place  as  the  commence- 
ment of  civilization.  We  crossed  over  in  the  evening  in  com- 
pany with  Mr.  Fletcher,  from  the  stern  of  whose  canoe  a  British 
jack  was  flying.  On  landing,  we  were  received  in  the  kindest 
manner  by  Mr.  Johnston,  the  principal  inhabitant  of  the  place, 
who  politely  invited  us  to  his  house,  where  we  spent  a  few  hours. 
He  r.Ljrned  with  us  to  the  Company's  establishment,  and  the 
nigh;  was  far  advanced  before  we  separated. 

August  26th.  In  consequence  of  the  canoes  requiring  some 
repairs,  we  remained  at  St.  Mary's  Falls  this  day,  which  we 
passed  in  the  most  agreeable  manner  at  the  residence  of  Mr. 
Johnston. 

The  history  of  this  gentleman  is  remarkable.  He  was  a  mem- 
ber of  a  iiighly  respectable  family  in  the  county  Antrim,  and  in 
early  life  moved  in  the  most  fashionable  circles  in  Ireland.  A  cir- 
cumstance, however,  which  blasted  his  early  hopes  of  happiness, 
induced  him  to  abandon  his  native  country,  and  about  twenty- 
eight  years  before  this  period  he  arrived  in  America.  After 
wandering  for  some  time  about  the  continent,  he  made  his  way 
to  St.  Mary's  Falls,  where  he  shortly  became  a  great  favourite 
with  the  Indians,  and  entered  extensively  into  the  fur  trade. 
The  chief  had  an  only  child,  a  daughter.  She  was  a  beautiful 
and  interesting  girl,  and  although  sought  for  as  a  wife  by  many 
of  the  youthful  warriors,  she  declined  all  their  offers.  Her 
father  was  old  and  infirm,  and  wished  her  to  marry  before  his 
death  ;  but  still  his  affection  for  his  daughter  was  so  great,  that 
he  would  not  exercise  his  parental  authority  in  compelling  her  to 
choose.  It  soon,  however,  became  apparent  that  Mr.  Johnston 
was  the  object  of  her  choice.  For  some  time  previous,  as  he 
told  me  himself,  he  began  to  experience  the  truth  of  St.  Pierre's 
opinion,  that  "  man  without  woman,  and  woman  without  man, 
are  imperfect  beings  in  the  order  of  nature."     On  learning, 


•'».    ■ 


LOYALTY   AND  MIDPORTUNE. 


303 


k 


therefore,  that  ho  had  found  favour  in  the  sight  of  this  youth- 
ful Indian,  he  at  once  came  to  the  resolution  of  rendering  both 
himself  and  her  perfect,  iler  father  consented,  and  they  were 
married  according  to  the  rites  and  ceremonies  of  the  tribe. 
Death  shortly  after  deprived  the  old  man  of  his  command  ;  and 
Mr.  Johnston,  Avhose  wisdom  and  courage  were  highly  admired 
by  the  Indians,  was  unanimously  elected  his  successor. 

Some  yeara  after  his  union  with  the  chief's  daughter,  an  ex- 
tensive property  fell  to  him  in  the  north  of  Ireland,  to  which 
place  he  repaired  in  order  to  take  possession.  While  there, 
offers  of  a  tempting  nature  were  made  to  induce  him  to  reside 
in  the  country  of  his  nativity,  but  his  fealty  to  the  "  Lxidy  of  the 
lake"  could  not  be  shaken  ;  and  the  moment  he  had  finished  his 
business,  he  hastened  back  to  St.  Mary's.  His  family  consisted 
of  two  sons  and  two  daughters,  and  a  Miss  Campbell,  an  interest- 
ing girl,  whose  father  had  a  few  years  before  been  shot  in  a 
duel  by  a  Mr.  Crawford.  One  son  was  employed  in  a  public 
department  in  Canada,  and  the  other  was  an  officer  in  a  local 
corps.  The  mother  received  us  in  a  friendly  manner  at  the 
door,  but  did  not  join  us  at  the  breakfast  or  dinner-table. 

Mr  Johnston  has  extensive  plantations  of  com  and  potatoes, 
&c.,  with  a  beautifully  arranged  and  well-stocked  fruit  and 
flower  garden.  During  the  late  short  war  with  America,  he 
induced  one  thousand  Indian  warriors  (of  whom  he  took  the 
command)  to  join  the  British  forces,  and  rendered  important  ser- 
vices while  so  employed. 

He  suffered  severely  for  his  loyalty ;  for,  during  his  absence 
with  the  army,  a  predatory  party  of  Americans  attacked  his 
place  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a  large  quantity  of  valuable  furs, 
which  they  were  informed  he  had  in  his  stores,  but  which  a  short 
time  before  his  departure  he  had  fortunately  removed.  Disap- 
pointed in  their  hopes  of  plunder,  they  burned  his  house,  out- 
offices,  &.C. ;  destroyed  the  greater  part  of  his  valuable  stock, 
and  carried  away  every  portable  article  they  could  find.*  At 
the  period,  therefore,  of  our  visits  the  buildings  were  quite  new, 
and  were  constructed  with  much  taste.  The  furniture  was  ele- 
gant, and  the  library  select  and  excellent. 

Mr.  Johnston  possessed  a  highly  cultivated  mind,  much  im- 
proved by  extensive  reading.  He  had  made  many  excursions 
round  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  and  along  the  banks  of  its 
tributary  streams,  in  which  scientific  researches  imparted  a  pleas- 
ing variety  to  the  business  of  an  Indian  trader.  His  collections 
of  specimens  were  varied  and  well  selected ;  and  if  the  result  of 

*  I  met  Mr.  Johnston  a  few  years  aflerward  in  England,  and  was  happy  to 
loarn  that  he  aucceeded  in  obtaining  from  government  compensation  for  th« 
iowea  he  lustained  on  the  above  occasion.  ^ 


.11 


994 


LAKB   HURON. 


hit  inquiries  be  published,  they  vrill,  I  have  no  doubt,  prove  a 
valuable  addition  to  our  geological  knowledge  of  interior  America. 

Mr.  Johnston  was  an  entiiusiustic  admirer  of  Indian  manners 
and  customs ;  and  if  a  word  were  uttered  condemnatory  of 
their  morals,  he  poured  forth  a  torrent  of  eloquent,  but  vitupe- 
rative satire  against  the  fashionable  follies  of  the  civilized  world ; 
which,  as  it  was  felt  he  spoke  jure  uxoris,  if  it  failed  to  establish 
the  superior  morality  of  Indian  manners,  silenced  at  least  all  op- 
position. 

Two  retired  traders,  named  Nolin  and  Ermantinger,  also  re- 
sided on  the  same  side  with  Mr.  Johnston,  a  short  distance  below 
his  house.  They  had  Indian  wives,  and  large  families,  and  ap- 
peared to  be  in  comfortable  circumstances. 

Mr.  Johnston  has  plenty  of  catth,  hogs,  sheep,  domestic  fowl, 
&c.  j  and  has  also  a  very  good  windmill  close  to  his  dwelling- 
house.  Fish  is  found  in  great  abundance,  particularly  trout. 
They  are  of  enormous  size — sixty  pounds  is  not  uncommon ; 
and  Mr.  Johnston  assured  me  he  saw  one  caught  in  Lake  Supe- 
rior which  weighed  ninety  pounds  I 

He  treated  us  to  an  excellent  dinner,  fine  wine,  and  a  few 
tumblers  of  Irish  mountain  dew,  which  had  never  seen  the  face 
of  an  exciseman.  We  left  Mr.  Johnston's  at  dusk ;  but  he  crossed 
over  with  us,  and  we  spent  togp^'  ^r  another  night  of  social  and 
intellectual  enjoyment. 

August  27th.  Embarked  at  7  nd  bade  adieu  to  the  worthy 

Hibernian  chieilain  of  St.  Mary  o.  Entered  Lake  Huron  with  a 
stiff  breeze,  which  kept  up  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day, 
with  rain  at  intervals.  We  were  obliged  to  land  at  five  p.  m., 
owing  to  the  increasing  violence  of  the  gale.  Passed  a  number 
oi  islands,  for  every  one  of  which  the  Canadians  have  peculiar 
names.  The  part  of  the  lake  through  which  we  pa'^sed  this  day 
was  rather  narrow,  the  shores  on  each  side  being  visible. 
Country  low,  and  thickly  wooded. 

August  28th.  Left  our  encampment  at  daybreak  with  a  fair 
wind,  shortly  after  which  the  lake  suddenly  widens,  and  we 
quickly  lost  sight  of  the  southern  shore.  At  noon  passed  the 
traverse  opposite  Michillimackana,  and  at  two  passed  the  River 
de  Tresallons.  Encamped  late  on  an  island.  Several  smart 
showers  during  the  day.     Country  low  and  woody. 

August  29tn.  Set  off  at  five  a.  m.  Passed  a  number  of 
islands  during  the  day.  They  were  generally  rocky,  and  covered 
with  pine,  birch,  dwarf  oak,  and  immense  quantities  of  the  In- 
dian weed  called  Sacacommis.  Encamped  at  six  p.  m.  on  an 
island,  in  company  with  a  brigade  of  loaded  canoes,  under  the 
charge  of  a  guide  named  Guillaume  d'Eau.  Weather  exces- 
sively sultry,  with  slight  rain. 


-■^ 


jt^ib. 


in.ANI>S— FRANCISCAN   MtHSlONARV. 


S95 


August  30.  Started  at  four  a.  u.  Passed  nearly  as  many 
islands  as  yesterday,  and  much  of  the  same  appearance.  The 
shore  of  the  mainland  still  low  and  rocky,  with  a  few  handsome 
spots.  Sultry  weather  and  light  breezes.  Encamped  on  an 
island  at  seven  p.  m. 

August  31st.  Embarked  at  four.  Charming  weather  all  day. 
Some  of  the  islands  we  passed  were  rather  long  and  fertile. 
The  north  shore  of  the  lake  still  low,  but  during  the  day  we 
observed  a  few  ridges  of  rather  high  hills  some  distance  in  the 
interior.  Encamped  at  half  past  five  at  the  entrance  of  Riviere 
des  Franqais,  at  which  place  we  quitted  Lake  Huron,  on  our 
way  to  the  Ottawa.  The  country  about  the  mouth  of  the  river 
is  rather  low  and  swampy. 

September  Ist.  At  half  past  four  a.  m.  commenced  ascend- 
ing the  Riviere  des  Fraii(;ais ;  and  ut  seven  passed  a  rapid  called 
La  Petite  Faucille,  at  which  we  were  obliged  to  carry  the  greater 
part  of  the  lading.  At  half  past  three  p.  m.  came  to  a  small  cas- 
cade  a  few  feet  perpendicular,  called  the  Portage  de  Recollet, 
previous  to  which  we  passed  several  small  rapids.  The  Cana- 
^'  dians  say  this  portage  obtained  its  present  name  in  consequence 
of  a  Franciscan  friar  having  made  his  way  to  it  as  a  missionary, 
'  for  the  purpose  of  converting  the  Indians,  during  the  period  that 
the  French  had  possession  of  Canada.  He  lived  to  an  old  age, 
and  during  his  last  illness  was  attended  by  the  natives ;  who, 
after  his  death,  deposited  his  remains  in  a  grave  behind  his  soli- 
tary hut.  During  the  remainder  of  the  day  the  river  was  unin- 
terrupted by  any  rapids ;  and  we  encamped  at  six  p.  m.,  close 
to  a  few  lodges  of  Indians.    Weather  very  sultry  all  day. 

September  2d.  Embarked  at  half  past  three.  Passed  seve- 
ral small  rapids  in  the  morning.  At  eight  made  the  Portage  de 
Parisien,  and  at  eleven  passed  the  three  dischai^s  of  La  Grande 
Faucille,  Les  Pins,  and  Portage  des  Pins,  all  short.  The  banks 
of  the  river  thickly  wooded,  with  a  rocky  soil.  At  four  p.  m. 
made  the  Portage  de  Chaudiere,  at  the  head  of  the  river,  where 
it  takes  its  rise  from  Lake  Nipising.  Encamped  at  five,  a  short 
distance  in  the  lake.  Passed  a  free  trader  named  La  Ronde,  on 
his  way  to  Montreal,  in  a  canoe  with  fourteen  packs  of  beaver, 
and  nearly  as  many  children. 

September  3d.  Started  at  two  a.  m.,  with  calm  weather, 
which  continued  until  we  got  about  halfway  over  the  Grande 
'  Traverse,  when  we  were  struck  by  a  hard  squall,  which  nearly 
filled  our  canoes.  At  ten  a.  m.  arrived  at  a  snug  house  belong- 
ing to  Mr.  La  Ronde's  son,  at  which  we  breakfasted.  Here  we 
left  Lake  Nipising,  and  entered  a  small  stream  which  falls  into 
it,  and  which  is  called  La  Petite  Riviere.  Its  banks  are  low, 
with  a  ri  :h  soil,  and  well  wooded.  About  two  miles  up  the  river 
made  rather  a  long  portage  called  La  Vase,  above  which  a  dam 


>*•■ 


396 


MOiQUITOBS — ROim   CONTDTVID. 


has  been  constructed,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  aome  water  in 
the  channel,  which  at  this  place  w  little  better  than  a  ditch.  We 
floated  the  canoes  through  this  canal  about  two  miles,  when  we 
were  compelled  to  stop  and  make  another  pretty  long  portage, 
named  the  Middle  Vase,  at  the  end  of  whicn  we  encamped. 

September  4th.  Rose  at  five  a.  h.,  after  suftbring  the  most 
dreaaful  torments  all  night  from  the  combined  attacks  of  the  mos- 
quitoes and  sand-flies,  which  insinuated  themselves  through  the 
smallest  aperture  of  the  tent,  and  fastened  their  infernal  fangs 
on  every  part  of  our  bodies,  the  neck,  cheeks,  and  forehead  m 
particular.  At  nine  a.  m.  made  another  portage,  called  the  Last 
Vase.  It  is  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  full  of  flnc  trees,  with 
an  excellent  road,  and  a  rich  olack  soil.  From  the  Middle  Vase 
to  this  there  Is  a  narrow  communication  by  water,  sufficiently 
large  to  float  a  canoe  and  no  more.  Remained  encamped  at  the 
end  of  the  portage  all  day,  in  consequence  of  heavy  rains,  and 
the  canoes  wanting  repairs. 

September  5th.  Embarked  at  half  past  four  a.  m.,  and  crossed 
a  small  lake  about  four  hundred  yards  wide,  at  the  end  of 
which  we  made  the  D^charge  de  Sable.  From  this  we  had  a 
clear  navigation  of  four  leagues,  which  brought  us  to  the  De- 
charge  de  la  Tortue.  At  half  past  ten,  ir.'^de  a  portage  called 
Mauvaise  de  la  Musiquc,  the  road  of  which  is  extremely 
awkward  and  dangerous.  A  few  years  before,  a  man  while 
carrying  a  canoe  fell  against  a  large  rock,  hy  which  his  head 
was  completely  severed  from  his  oody.  His  grave  is  in  the 
middle  of  the  pathway.  At  half  past  twelve,  made  the  por- 
tage des  Pins-de  la  Musique ;  and  at  half  past  four  made  another 
portage  called  Les  Talons,  the  road  in  which  is  bad  and  rocky, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  repair  the  canoes  ader  crossing  it. 
Within  a  few  minutes  of  pix,  made  the  Decharge  de  la  Carpe ; 
and  at  half  past  seven,  passed  another  decharge  named  La  Prai- 
rie, at  the  end  of  which  we  encamped. 

The  banks  of  this  river  are  generally  high,  rocky,  and  thickly 
wooded  with  pine,  ash,  beech,  and  poplar.  The  stream  itself  is 
narrow,  and,  except  where  it  is  interrupted  by  cascades  or  rapids, 
the  current  moves  on  very  sluggishly.  The  reflection  of  the 
dark  foliage  of  the  trees  gives  the  place  a  gloomy  appearance, 
which  is  unenlivened  by  the  sight  of  game,  or  the  warbling  of 
a  single  bird. 

September  6th.  Remained  until  half  past  six  repairing  the 
canoes,  after  which  we  embarked.  At  nine  arrived  at  a  pretty 
high  fall,  called  the  Portage  de  Paresseux,  the  view  from  which 
is  nighly  picturesque.  At  half  past  ten,  passed  a  small  decharge 
called  Les  Epingles,  and  at  noon  made  the  D6charge  des  Gros- 
ses Roches.  At  two,  passed  the  Decharge  du  Campion;  at 
three,  the  Decharge  des  Roses ;  and  at  seven,  the  Portage  du 


OTTAWA    RIVER — RAPIDS. 


297 


at 


Plein  Champ,  nt  the  end  of  which  wo  encamped.  The  river 
thia  day  appeared  a  little  wider,  hut  the  general  aspect  of  the 
country  did  not  diftur  from  that  described  yesterday. 

September  7th.  Embarked  ut  six  a.  m.  ;  passed  a  few  rapids, 
and  at  seven  arrived  at  the  termination  of  the  river  where 
it  falls  into  the  Ottawa,  called  by  the  Canadians  La  Grande 
Riviere.  Remained  here  the  rest  of  the  day  for  the  loaded 
canoes  behind.  A  range  of  high  hills  are  visible  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Ottawa,  which  extend  down  to  the  Labrador  coast. 

September  8th.  Mr.  Fletcher  took  the  sun's  altitude  at  noon, 
and  determined  this  place  to  be  in  latitude  46°  19'  N. ;  exactly 
the  same  as  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia ;  and  the  longitude  about 
80°  West.  Did  not  embark  until  four  p.  m.  PassecT two  rapids, 
in  one  of  which  we  partly  unloaded,  and  encamped  at  five  to 
wait  for  the  canoes.  The  banks  of  the  Ottawa,  as  far  as  we 
have  proceeded,  are  high,  the  soil  gravelly,  and  the  wood  prin- 
cipally pine  and  birch.     Had  very  line  weather  all  doy. 

September  9th.     Set  off  at  half  past  five  a.  m.     Unloaded 

{>art  of  our  packages  at  Les  Batteries  de  Mutawan  and  I^'Eveil- 
ee ;  and  took  out  all  our  loading  at  the  Trou  and  Les  Deux 
Rivieres,  at  the  foot  of  which  latter  {>  ace  we  encamped.  These 
are  all  large  rapids,  and  the  two  latter  are  dangerous.  During 
the  day  we  passed  some  very  fine  low  bottoms,  admirably 
adapted  for  building  on,  and  completely  sheltered  by  the  hills  in 
their  rear.  Wood  and  soil  same  as  yesterday,  and  the  current 
of  the  river  generally  rapid. 

September  10th.  It  rained  hard  nil  night.  Remained  until 
eight  a.  m.,  repairing  the  canoes.  At  half  past  ten  arrived  at 
the  great  rapid  called  Le  Rocher  Capitaine,  at  which  we  were 
obliged  to  unload,  and  carry  the  goods  by  a  long  portage.  En- 
camped at  five,  at  a  handsome  spot  called  the  Pointe  aux  Chenes, 
from  the  great  quantity  of  oak-trees  growing  on  it.  It  is  one  of 
the  prettiest  situations  I  have  ever  seen  for  a  village. 

September  11th.  Embarked  at  five  a.  m.,  in  a  thick  fog. 
At  seven  arrived  at  a  dangerous  rapid  called  the  Joachim,  at 
which  we  were  obliged  to  unload  and  carry  the  canoes  and 
packs  over  a  very  bad  portage,  which  we  finished  at  half  past 
eight.  About  an  hour  after  came  to  another  equally  dangerous 
rapid  called  the  Second  Joachim,  where  we  also  unloaded,  and 
finished  the  portage  at  a  quarter  past  eleven.  Here  we  break- 
fasted, and  stopped  to  gum  and  repair  the  canoes.  We  walked 
between  the  two  portages,  and  passed  a  small  inland  lake  about 
a  furlong  in  breadth.  Continued  on  at  one  p.  m.,  and  had  no 
farther  obstructions  in  the  river  during  the  day.  Encamped  at 
seven  in  a  pretty  little  bay.  The  banks  of  the  Ottawa  this  day 
appeared  to  be  well  supplied  with  excellent  pine,  birch,  and 

Oo 


:"^- 


PORTAOIB — DAIfOEROUl   nAVIOATIOn. 


Other  treci.  Tlie  oak  had  a  dwarfish  appearance,  and  very 
little  underwood  was  visible  ;  a  circumstance  which  must  mate< 
rially  facilitate  the  location  of  new  settlers. 

September  12th.  Embarked  at  half  past  two  a.  m.  At 
■even  passed  a  rapid  culled  the  Culbute,  at  which  we  partly  un- 
kuided.  Within  a  few  minutes  of  nine  passed  another,  called 
Les  Allumettes,  where  also  we  were  obliged  to  carry  part  of  our 
lading.  At  two  p.  m.  arrived  at  a  trading-post  called  Fort  Cou- 
longe,  in  charge  of  a  worthy  substantial  old  soul,  called,  from 
his  age  and  weight.  Alderman  Godin.  He  gave  us  a  repas*  of 
the  best  he  had,  which  was  no  ^reat  things ;  but  as  lie  was 
vnable  to  supply  us  with  any  provisions  for  tlie  use  of  the  men» 
we  took  our  leave  of  him  at  sunset,  niul  drove  down  the  current 
all  night,  which,  being  free  from  rapids,  expost '  us  to  no  great 
danger.  The  poor  voyae;eurs,  who  were  in  a  starving  condition, 
kept  up  les  chansons  d  Vaviron  until  daybreak,  to  divert  their 
hunger. 

September  13th.  At  six  a.  m.  arrived  at  the  rapid  of  the 
Grand  Calu^net,  where  wo  had  to  make  a  portage  of  our  canoes 
and  baggage,  which  was  not  completed  until  a  quarter  past 
eleven.  This  portage  is  very  long,  but  the  pathway  is  excel* 
lent.  At  twelve  passed  a  rapid  called  Tergir,  at  which  we 
partly  unlooded ;  and  in  less  than  an  hour  afterward  came  to  the 
Portage  de  la  Montague,  which  we  finished  at  half  past  one. 
Road  excellent.  Some  time  after  we  shot  down  a  very  dan- 
gerous rapid  called  Du  Sable,  without  unloading.  Our  canoes 
touched  the  rocks  several  times,  and  sustained  considerable 
injury.  At  half  past  four  made  Portage  du  Fort,  rather  short ; 
and  at  six  encamped  at  the  entrance  of  Lac  des  Chats.  We 
walked  several  miles  on  each  bank  during  the  day,  and  observed 
the  predominant  timber  to  be  stately  pine  and  very  fine  cedar. 

September  1 4th.  The  Ottawa  here  forms  a  lake,  which  the 
Canadians,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  called  Lac  des  Chats, 
but  why  1  could  not  learn.  The  shores  of  thci  lake  are  rather 
low,  and  the  trees  much  smaller  than  those  higher  up.  We 
embarked  at  four  a.  m.,  and  crossed  the  lako  at  half  past  ten  ; 
after  which  we  entered  a  number  of  dangerous  and  intricate 
channels  formed  by  several  rocky  islands,  through  which  we 
had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  passing,  f:om  a  combination  of 
rocks,  snags,  &c.  On  extricating  ourselves  from  this  labyrinth, 
we  arrived  at  Portage  des  Chats,  which  we  passed  at  noon. 
At  the  end  of  this  portage  we  found  a  Mr.  Hodgeson  settled, 
who  had  formerly  been  a  clerk  in  the  service  of  tne  Hudson's- 
Bay  Company.  The  only  refreshment  he  could  afford  to  our 
half-starved  men,  was  a  meal  of  potatoes  and  butter.    Finding 


'■^■^wy 


m, 


BXCTAL  INIlOBPITiiLITY — rORCCD  CONTRIBUTION. 


390 


^ 


nothing  very  attractive  about  thiu  solitary  settlcmont,  we  loit  no 
time  in  returning  our  journey. 

Encountered  no  otticr  rapids  during  the  day,  and  at  nine  p.  m. 
arrived  at  the  houao  of  an  American  iMckwoodsman,  vrho  with 
hia  family  had  retired  to  rest.  It  was  a  miserable  amoky  dwell- 
ing, and  it  woh  no  caHy  task  to  rouse  them  from  i  lofl  in  whicb 
their  dormitory  was  situated.  The  master  of  the  family  rl 
length  made  his  appearance,  which  was  highly  unprefXMsessicc. 
On  bis  bead  ho  wore  an  old  boar-skin  cap,  and  over  his  shoul- 
ders was  thrown  a  kind  of  half-worn  deer-skin  covering.  He 
was  upwards  of  six  feet  in  height,  with  square  shoulders,  pierc- 
ing gray  eyes,  liu-go  bushy  whiskers,  a  smoke-dried  countenance, 
and  a  beard  wliich  for  months  had  not  telt  a  razor. 

The  salutation  of  this  uncouth  savage  gave  us  no  favourable 
idea  of  his  hospitality.  On  opening  the  door  ho  roared  out  in 
a  sharp  nasal  accent,  "  D — n  and  b — t  ye,  what  do  ye  want  t 

Why  do  ye  make  sich  a  d n  noise  at  this  hour  of  the  night, 

ye  d — d  French  rascals  ?" 

"  We  are  hungry,  and  want  something  to  eat." 

*♦  I  have  none  to  give, — so  be  ofl. ' 

"  But  we  will  pay  you  for  it  in  hard  dollars."* 

*♦  B — t  me  if  1  care. — I  have  nothing, — so  don't  trouble  me 
any  more." 

The  Canadians  however  having  assured  us  that  he  was  gene- 
rally well  supplied  with  provisions,  we  told  him  we  should  forth- 
with institute  a  search,  and  take  by  force  that  which  he  refused 
for  money.  This  threat  induced  the  boor  to  dislodge  from  a 
large  cupboard  some  cold  meat,  dried  fish,  and  Indian  com, 
which  with  a  mess  of  potatoes  served  to  blunt  the  keen  edge  of 
our  appetite  for  the  night. 

September  15tli.  Started  at  daybreak.  At  half  past  seven 
passed  a  large  log-house  occupied  by  several  Americans,  from 
whom  the  men  obtained  corn  and  fish  enough  for  a  meal  At 
half  past  nine  arrived  at  Portage  des  Chcncs,  where  we  obtained 
an  excellent  breakfast  at  two  shillings  ahead  in  the  house  of  Mr. 
M'Collum,  a  native  of  Prince  Edward's  Island,  from  which 

Elace  he  had  lately  removed  to  the  banks  of  the  Ottawa,  where 
e  set  up  a  small  tavern,  the  first  I  had  seen  for  six  years. 
A  short  distance  below  this  portage  the  navigation  is  inter- 
rupted by  the  great  falls  of  La  Chaudiere,  at  wliich  the  village 
of  Hull  is  situated.  We  walked  thither  from  M'CoUums. 
This  settlement  appeared  to  be  in  a  thriving  condition,  and, 
under  the  superintendence  of  its  enterprising  proprietor  Mr. 


*  M'Neill,  Wentzel,  and  I  obtained,  a  couple  of  days  before,  aixtj  doUan 
from  Mr.  Fletcher,  who  had  gone  on  ahead  for  MontreiaL 


I 


4 


j^ 


300 


VILLAGE — TIMBER  TRADE — CASCADES. 


m 


Wright,  bids  fair  to  be  a  place  of  considerable  importance. 
We  observed  a  few  comfortable  houses  ;  and  his  shop,  the  only 
one  in  the  village  of  any  respectability,  was  tastefully  orna- 
mented by  a  handsome  steeple.  No  provisions  could  be  ob- 
tained for  love  or  money,  and,  with  the  exception  of  some  bad 
rum,  our  men  could  procure  no  refreshment  of  any  description. 
The  crops  promised  to  be  very  abundant,  but  a  premature  frost 
had  in  a  great  degree  injured  them.  The  potatoes  were  very 
large,  but  quite  moist,  which,  some  of  the  inhabitants  told  me,  is 
their  general  characteristic  both  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence and  the  Ottawa.  The  soil  near  the  shore  is  rocky  and 
barren,  but  a  short  distance  in  the  interior  it  is  rich  and  highly 
productive.  Rafting  is  the  principal  business  of  the  settlers ; 
and  white  oak,  red  and  white  pine,  the  chief  timber  sent  down- 
wards. Notwithstanding  the  immense  distance  these  rafts  have 
to  descend,  and  the  number  of  hands  employed  in  hewing  the 
timber,  the  business  is  tolerably  profitable. 

Tvventy-tv  ")  families  of  emigrants,  chiefly  Irish  and  Scotch, 
had  reached  Hull  a  short  time,  previous  to  our  arrival.  They 
were  stationed  in  a  range  of  small  miserable  huts,  and  appeared 
to  be  in  a  state  of  great  destitution.  The  portion  of  land  which 
each  expected  had  not  yet  been  allotted,  and  the  poor  creatures 
complained  with  apparent  justice  of  t  \t:  gross  want  of  attention 
on  the  part  of  those  whose  duty  it  was  to  superintend  their 
location.  A  few  lodges  of  Indians  were  also  here.  The  men 
cssisted  our  voyageurs  in  carrying  the  packs  across  the  por- 
tage ;  and  their  squaws,  who  were  poor  and  dirty,  made  cer- 
tain advances,  which,  to  judge  by  their  amatory  glances,  some 
of  the  Canadians  perfectly  understood  without  any  lingual  ex- 
planation. 

The  navigation  of  the  Ottawa,  at  this  place,  is  obstructed  by 
a  line  of  bold,  dark-looking  rocks,  which  stretch  across  the  river, 
and  over  which  the  descending  torrent,  after  rushing  with  head- 
long fury,  and  forming  a  beautifully  extended  prismatic  curtain, 
falls  into  a  foaming  cauldron,  the  frightful  ebullition  of  which  re- 
quires no  small  degree  of  nerve  to  survey  with  composure. 

We  remained  this  evening  at  Hull,  and  but  for  the  hospitable 
attention  we  received  from  a  Mr.  Downes,  who  was  in  the  em- 
ployment of  Mr.  Wright,  we  should  not  have  imagined  ourselves 
within  the  precincts  of  civilization. 

September  16th.  It  rained  hard  during  the  morning,  which 
delayed  our  departure  until  nine  o'clock.  Passed  a  number  of 
poor  straggling  huts  some  distance  below  Hull,  inhabited  by 
some  of  the  newly-arrived  settlers.  At  eleven  p.  m.  passed  the 
River  Rideau,  which  falls  into  the  Ottawa  over  a  high  perpen- 
dicular rock,  and  forms  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  cascade. 


^Hf 


IkANOEROVS   RAPID — AGREEABLE   MISTAKE. 


301 


This  river,  I  understand,  runs  through  a  fruitful  district,  which  is 
thickly  settled,  chiefly  by  Scotch  emigrants.  A  few  miles  lower 
down  passed  another  stream  called  La  Riviere  Blanche,  near 
the  mouth  of  which  there  is  a  thriving  village.  During  the  day 
we  observed  several  farms  thinly  scattered  along  the  banks,  the 
occupants  of  which  were  very  reluctant  in  parting  with  any  of 
their  provisions.  Had  a  smooth  steady  current  allday,  uninter- 
rupted by  rapids.  The  appearance  of  the  country  was  low,  and 
tolerably  well  wooded;  but  the  Canadians  say  that  in  high 
water,  some  of  the  flat  bottoms  are  inundated.  At  nine  p.  m. 
put  ashore  at  a  farm-house,  where  we  procured  a  little  addition 
to  our  scanty  supply  for  supper.  As  tne  weather  was  flne,  and 
the  navigation  free  from  danger,  we  re-embarked  at  eleven  p.  m. 
and  drove  gently  down  the  current  all  night. 

September  I'Tth.  At  half  past  eight  a.  m.  we  arrived  at  the 
great  rapid  called  Lc  liOng  Sault,  the  navigation  of  which  is  so 
dangerous,  that  guides  reside  at  the  place  for  the  special  purpose 
of  conducting  the  canoes  through  it.  While  we  were  waiting 
for  our  pilot,  we  askcdoneof  the  AoWton*  where  we  could  obtain 
a  good  breakfast  ?  He  pointed  to  a  handsome  house  on  an  emi- 
nence above  the  rapid,  and  merely  said  "  Id  /"  A  few  seconds 
brought  us  to  the  door,  which  was  opened  by  a  ruddy  blue-eyed 
damsel,  who  conducted  us  to  the  parlour.  We  told  her  we 
wished  to  see  her  master  or  mistress  immediately,  upon  which 
she  curtsied  obedience  and  withdrew.  , 

From  the  windows  of  this  apartment  we  had  an  extensive  and 
picturesque  view  of  hills,  forests,  corn-flelds,  farm-houses,  and 
gardens ;  while  close  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  the  majestic  Ottawa 
rolled  its  turbulent  waters  over  a  mass  of  large  detached  rocks 
upwards  of  two  miles  in  extent.  The  parlour  itself  was  the 
beau  ideal  of  elegance  and  comfort.  The  breakfast-table  vtras 
partly  laid,  and  a  polished  copper  tea-kettle  simpered  most  har- 
moniously on  a  bright  brass  footman,  which  was  suspended  from 
the  shining  bars  of  a  Rumford  grate. 

While  we  were  indulging  by  anticipation  in  the  pleasures  of  a 
substantial  dejeune,  tlie  door  opened,  and  a  female  en  deshabille 
of  prepossessing  appearance,  entered.  A  large  bunch  of  keys 
in  her  hand  announced  her  domestic  supremacy.  She  saluted  us 
in  the  most  cordial  and  friendly  manner,  and  begged  to  know  if 
we  had  come  from  the  interior  ?  Having  replied  in  the  afllirm- 
Btive,  she  added — 

"  You  are  Nor- Westers  I  presume,  gentlemen  V* 

**  Yes,  Madam,"  said  Wentzel,  "  and  have  been  travelling  all 
night  in  search  of  a  breakfast,  which  one  of  the  habitana  toM  us 
we  could  get  here." 


\m 


W^i' 


^m\ 


0 


i^ 


^t  i;ii  J.  -.  .  8n  '■ikt'i  4 


.ii:! 


.?.  H  f    1  iioi' 


0 


302 


UNEXPECTED   DISCOVERY. 


'aI 


"  You  shall  have  the  best  the  house  affords/'  was  the  reply. 

«Ho»  rolls?"— "Yes."  i 

♦♦  Frc  .h  eggs  ?"— ■"  Most  decidedly." 

*'  A  broiled  chop  ?" -"  I'll  try." 

"  And  do  you  hear  me,  landlady,"  said  M 'Neill,  as  she  was 
quitting  the  room,  "  This  is  a  sharp  morning, — could  we  get  a 
whet  out  of  Boniface's  own  bottle  ?"  To  this  a  favourable  an- 
swer was  also  returned,  and  away  she  flew  to  comply  with  our 
various  requisitions. 

In  a  few  minutes  Marguerite  made  her  appearance,  carrying 
a  large  tray  furnished  with  the  hot  rolls,  fresh  eggs,  broiled  chop, 
and  the  whet.  She  was  followed  by  her  mistress,  who  was  ac- 
companied by  a  middle-aged  gentleman  in  his  dressing-gown. 

"  You  are  welcome,  gentlemen,"  said  he ;  "  Ha  !  my  dear 
Wentzel,  is  this  you  ?  I'm  delighted  to  see  you.  How  did  you 
find  me  out?" 

"  Find  you  out,"  replied  Wentzel; "  Why,  my  dear  Grant,  can 
this  be  your  house  ?"  "  Certainly,"  said  he ;  "  and  permit  me  to 
introduce  you,  gentlemen,  to  Mrs.  Grant.'' 

We  all  began  to  stammer  out  excuses  for  our  apparent  rude- 
ness, and  explained  the  trick  which  the  Tony  Lumpkin  of  the 
village  had  played  on  us.  Mrs.  Grant  laughed  heartily  at  our 
confusion,  and  graciously  sealed  our  pardon  by  pledging  us  in  a 
flowing  bowl  of  refreshmg  Hyson. 

Mr.  Grant  hf^d  been  formerly  a  member  of  the  North- West 
Company,  and  while  in  the  Indian  country  had  been,  associated 
with  Wentzel  in  many  hazardous  excursions.  In  short,  they  were 
old  friends,  and  were  naturally  overjoyed  at  their  unexpected 
meeting,  the  pleasure  of  which  was  much  heightened  by  the  lu- 
dicrous mistake  that  led  to  it.  At  11  o'clock,  we  took  leave  of 
our  worthy  hosi  and  his  amiable  lady ;  and  in  less  than  two 
hours  arrived  at  the  foot  of  Le  Long  Sault,  which  is  one  of  the 
longest  and  most  dangerous  rapids  in  the  interior.  Here  we 
met  another  retired  partner  of  the  North- West  Company,  Mr. 
John  M'Donald,  who  insisted  on  our  visiting  his  house.  An  ex- 
cellent dinner  was  quickly  prepared,  during  the  demolition  of 
which  we  cracked  half  a  dozen  of  Mr.  Mac's  prime  Madeira. 
This  gentleman  was  a  strict  Roman  Catholic,  and,  during  his 
residence  in  the  Indian  country,  was  dtstingushed  by  the  Cana- 
dians from  others  of  the  same  name  by  the  title  of  Le  PrStre 
(priest),  owing  to  the  rigid  manner  in  which  he  made  his  men 
adhere  to  the  various  fasts  of  the  Catholic  church ;  a  proof  of 
orthodoxy  with  which  the  great  majority  of  them  would  have 
gladly  dispensed.  From  this  circumstance,  joined  to  his  general 
character  among  the  voyageurs,  1  was  led  to  expect  m  Mr. 
M'Donald  a  second  St.  Francis ;  but  in  lieu  of  the  austere  monk, 


KINDNESS  AND   HOSPITALITY — TAVERN. 


303 


we  saw  in  the  retired  trader  a  cheerful,  healthy,  and  contented 
old  man — a  proof,  if  any  were  wanting,  that  true  piety  and 
social  gayety  are  not  incompatible. 

At  five  p.  M.  we  took  our  leave  of  the  hospitable  Pritre,  who 
anxiously  pressed  us  to  spend  the  night  at  his  house  ;  an  invita- 
tion which  our  arrangements  precluded  us  from  accepting. 
Passed  several  handsome  farms  during  the  evening ;  and  after 
night-fall  had  set  in,  we  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  Riviere  k  la 
Graisse,  on  the  banks  of  which  a  long  straggling  village  is 
situated.  Having  seen  the  men  properly  accommodated,  we 
left  them  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  proceeded  towards  the 
village,  in  which,  after  some  inquiry,  I  found  an  old  Columbian 
friend,  named  Donald  M'Gillis,  comfortably  settled.  He  quickly 
collected  a  few  rustic  bon  vivans  to  greet  our  arrival,  and  the 
night  was  far  advanced  in  festive  mirth  before  our  good-natured 
host  permitted  us  to  throw  our  jaded  bodies  on  a  bed. 

Sept.  18th.  We  did  not  rise  till  ten  this  morning,  at  which  time 
some  of  the  men  insisted  on  awakening  us.  They  told  us  that 
two  of  the  loaded  canoes,  which  stopped  to  repair  below  the 
Sauk  the  evening  before,  had  not  yet  arrived.  We  therefore 
told  them  to  wait  a  couple  of  hours  longer,  at  the  expiration  of 
which,  if  they  did  not  arrive,  we  should  proceed.  Took  a  late 
breakfast,  shortly  after  which  we  bade  farewell  to  my  friend 
M'Gillis,  who  accompanied  us  to  the  beach.  Seeing  no  appear- 
ance of  the  two  canoes,  we  ordered  our  men  to  make  little  use 
of  the  paddles;  and  as  the  day  was  remarkably  fine,  after 
descending  a  few  miles,  Wentzel,  M'Neill,  and  I  landed,  and 
proceeded  seven  or  eight  miles  on  a  good  road  running  parallel 
with  the  river,  until  we  arrived  at  an  excellent  tavern  kept  by  a 
curious  and  eccentric  person  named  Snyder,  a  German  by  birth, 
at  which  place  we  determined  to  pass  the  night.  We  therefore 
sent  orders  to  the  canoes  to  encamp  before  the  tavern ;  and, 
having  inquired  what  we  could  obtain  for  dinner,  were  presented 
with  a  bill  of  fare  that  would  not  have  derogated  from  the 
credit  of  the  first  inn  in  England.  It  was  not,  however,  like 
many  of  those  documents — all  show  and  no  substance  :  the  Ger- 
man put  nothing  on  paper  that  he  was  not  prepared  to  put  on 
the  table  ;  and  in  less  than  an  hour  after  our  orders  were  given, 
the  dinner  was  served  up  in  a  style  of  neatness  and  even  ele- 
gance which  I  have  seldom  seen  surpassed  in  any  house  of  public 
entertainment. 

Atter  dinner  we  invited  the  old  man  to  join  us.  He  was  a 
most  entertaining  companion.  Fame  had  celebrated  him  as  a 
first-rate  narrator  of  anecdotes,  and  the  report  we  found  was 
not  exaggerated.  His  conversation  was  a  complete  antidote  to 
ennui,  and  effectually  checked  any  propensities  we  might  have 


I 


I.  I'' 


f 


:!! 


it*r 


-?* 


n 


•m 


H 


ao4 


AMUSING   LANOLOED— ROUTE   CONTINUED. 


'•    I' 

m 


had  to  sleep.  The  North- Westers,  he  said,  were  the  founders 
of  his  fortune :  they  always  stopped  at  his  house  in  their  jour^ 
neys  to  and  from  the  interior,  and,  no  matter  how  other  cus- 
tomers might  fare,  a  North- Wester  should  always  have  the  best 
bed  and  M)ttle  in  his  house.  He  kept  his  word, — but  we  could 
not  keep  our  beds.  Five  months  continued  sleeping  on  the 
hard  ground  had  so  vitiated  our  taste  for  comfort,  that  we  in 
vain  endeavoured  to  compose  ourselves  to  rest ;  and,  alter  suf- 
fering the  torments  of  luxury  for  a  couple  of  hours,  were  obliged 
to  order  the  beds  to  be  removed,  after  which  we  slept  tolerably 
well  on  the  mattra^ses. 

September  19th.  Partook  of  an  early  breakfast  with  the 
worthy  old  Rhinelander,  immediately  after  which  we  embarked. 
Some  distance  below  Snyder's  we  entered  the  Lake  of  the  Two 
Mountains,  which  is  formed  by  the  extension  of  the  Ottawa. 
Stopped  at  a  village  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake,  from 
which  it  derives  its  name.  'I'he  principal  inhabitants  of  this 
place  are  Iroquois  Indians,  a  small  remnant  of  that  once  power- 
ful tribe.  They  are  all  Roman  Catholics,  and  have  a  plam  neat 
church.  Here  I  also  ound  another  old  friend  from  the  Colum- 
bia, Mr.  Pillet,  with  whom  we  stopped  a  couple  of  hours.  He 
had  a  snug  farm,  a  comfortable  house,  a  handsome  wife,  and 
two  pretty  children,  and  altogether  appeared  to  be  in  happy 
circumstances. 

The  two  canoes  which  had  been  so  long  in  the  rear  overtook 
us  here,  and  we  continued  on  together  the  remainder  of  the  day. 
On  passing  the  village  of  St.  Anne's  we  were  hailed  by  Mr. 
Daniel  M'Kenzie,  one  of  the  senior  proprietors  of  the  North- 
West  Company,  for  whom  I  bad  some  letters.  We  therefore 
put  ashore,  and  found  with  him  Messrs.  Cameron,  and  Sayers, 
against  whom  certain  charges  had  been  preferred  by  some  mem- 
bers of  the  Hudson's-Bay  Company,  relative  to  the  outrages  in 
the  interior,  the  result  of  which  it  was  deemed  prudent  they 
should  abide  at  this  reiired  village.  Remained  a  few  hours 
with  those  gentlemen,  with  whom  we  took  a  luncheon ;  after 
which  we  resumed  o>ir  voyage. 

The  country  from  Kiviere  a  la  Graisse  to  Snyder's,  and  from 
thence  to  St.  Anne's,  is  highly  cultivated,  well  stocked  with 
farms  and  thriving  villages,  and  is  rich  in  scenery  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  romantic  description. 

At  four  p,  M.  arrived  at  the  termination  of  the  Ottawa,  where 
it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Great  St.  Lawrence,  down  which 
we  continued  until  six,  when  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  La 
Chine,  at  which  place  canoe-voyaging  terminates,  with  the 
parties  homeward-bound,  and  commences  with  those  destined 
for  the  interim. 


CANADIAlf   VOYAOEUR8. 


305 


After  some  delay  we  procured  a  caliche  sufficiently  lai^e  to 
hold  Wentzel,  M'Neill,  and  myself.  We  next  purchased,  at  a 
neighbouring  auberge,  a  keg  of  rum,  which  we  presented  as  a 
valedictory  allowance  to  our  vcyageurs,  and,  having  shook  each 
man  cordially  by  the  hand,  drove  off  amid  their  benedictions 
for  Montreal,  in  which  city  we  arrived  at  half  past  nine  p.  m.,  at 
Clamp's  Coffee  House  in  Capital-street,  after  a  journey  of  five 
months  and  three  days  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 


|y 


!4n 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


Sketches  of  the  Canadian  Voyageurs — Anecdote  of  La  Libert^ — The  Fr«e« 
men,  or  Trappers — The  Half-breeda — Anecdote — Retired  Partners — Joae* 
phine — F/an9aise — Amusing  Letter — Iroquois  Indians — Anecdote. 

There  are  three  descriptions  of  men  in  the  Compary'  em- 
ployment, namely, — the  white  Canadians,  the  half-breeds,  and 
the  Iroquois  Indians.  A  few  words  respectingeach  class  may 
not  be  uninteresting  to  the  general  reader.  The  first  are  the 
descendants  of  the  original  French  settlers.  They  are  gene- 
rally engaged  for  five  years ;  and,  at  the  period  I  speak  of,  the 
foreman  and  steersman  of  each  canoe  received  one  thousand 
livres  per  annum,  the  middlemen  six  hundred,  with  an  equip- 
ment, which  means  a  suit  of  clothes  and  a  large  carrot  of 
tobacco  annually.  The  number  of  men  in  each  canoe  varies, 
according  to  its  size,  from  six  to  ten.  The  strongest  and  most 
expert  are  employed  in  the  bow  and  stern ;  for  upon  their  skil- 
ful management  in  conducting  the  vessel  through  the  dangerous 
rapids  the  safety  of  the  crew  chiefly  depends.  Their  rations 
at  first  view  may  appear  enormous.  Each  man  is  allowed  eight 
pounds  of  solid  meat  per  diem,  such  as  buffalo,  deer,  horse,  &c., 
and  ten  pounds  if  there  be  bone  in  it.  In  the  autumnal  months, 
in  lieu  of  meat,  each  man  receives  two  large  geese,  or  four 
ducks.  They  are  supplied  with  fish  in  the  same  proportion.  It 
must,  however,  be  recollected  that  these  rations  are  unaccompa- 
nied by  bread,  biscuit,  potatoes,  or,  in  fact,  by  vegetables  of  any 
description.  In  some  of  our  journeys  up  the  Columbia  they 
were  allowed  pork  and  rice  ;  and  Oii  particular  occasions,  such 
as  wet  weather,  or  making  a  long  portage,  they  received  a  glass 
of  rum. 

At  Christmas  and  New-year  they  are  served  out  with  flour  to 
make  cakes  or  puddings,  and  each  man  receives  half  a  pint  of 

Pp 


m 


J». 


306 


CHARACTEH    OF  THE   CANADIANS. 


rum.  This  they  call  a  regale,  and  they  are  particularly  grateful 
for  it. 

With  no  rent  to  pay,  or  provisions  to  purchase,  it  may  be 
thought  these  men  save  the  greater  part  of  their  wages.  Such, 
however,  is  not  the  fact.  There  is  not  perhaps  in  the  world  a 
more  thoughtless  or  improvident  race  of  people  than  the  Cana- 
dian voyageurs.  Every  article  of  extra  clothing  or  finery  which 
they  want  must  be  obtained  from  the  Company's  stores  ;  and  as 
there  is  no  second  shop  at  which  to  apply,  prices  immeasurably 
beyond  the  value  are  charged  for  the  various  articles  they  pur- 
chase. In  this  manner,  between  the  expenses  attending  their 
Indian  wives  and  children,  the  purchasing  of  horses,  gambling, 
&c.,  the  wages  of  years  are  dissipated. 

I  know  of  no  people  capable  of  enduring  so  much  hard 
labour  as  the  Canadians,  or  so  submissive  to  superiors.  In  voy- 
ages of  six  months'  duration,  during  which 

"  Sunday  shiiiea,  no  Sabbath-day  to  them,"  ,    .. 


'1  4 


'•3- 


% 


I  ! 


they  commence  at  daybreak,  and  from  thence  to  night-fall  hard 
paddling  and  carrying  goods  occupy  their  time  without  inter- 
mission. They  are  remarkably  good-natured  and  affectionate 
to  each  other,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  hear  one  man 
address  his  comrade  as  "  man  frere"  or  "  mon  cousin,"  without 
any  degree  of  consanguinity  existing  between  them.  The 
enlivening  anecdote,  or  la  chanson  a  Faviron,  by  turns  softens 
down  the  severity  of  their  laborious  duties,  in  the  midst  of  which 
they  uniformly  display  the  same  elasticity  of  spirits  and  gaiete 
de  cceur  by  which  their  vivacious  French  ancestors  were  so 
much  distinguished.  It  is  laughable  to  hear  the  nominal  distinc- 
tions they  are  obliged  to  adopt  in  reference  to  many  of  the  part- 
ners and  clerks,  who  have  the  same  surname.  There  are  Mr. 
Mackenzie,  le  rouge;  Mr.  Mackenzie,  le  blanc ;  Mr.  Macken- 
zie, le  borgne ;  Mr.  Mackenzie,  le  picoU ;  Mr.  M'Donald,  le 
grand ;  Mr.  M* Donald,  lepretre ;  Mr.  M' Donald,  le  bi-as  crocks ; 
and  so  on,  according  to  the  colour  of  the  hair,  the  size,  or  other 
personal  peculiarity  of  each  individual. 

Mr.  Shaw,  one  of  the  agents,  had  passed  many  years  in  the 
interior,  and  was  by  the  voyageurs  called  Monsieur  Lt.  Chat. 
On  quitting  the  Indian  country  he  married  a  Canadian  lady,  by 
whom  he  had  several  children.  Some  years  after  this  event, 
one  of  his  old  foremen,  named  Louis  La  Liberte,  went  to  Mont- 
real to  spend  the  winter.  He  had  heard  of  his  old  bourgeois 
marriage,  and  was  anxious  to  see  him.  Mr.  Shaw  was  walking 
on  the  Champ  de  Mars  with  a  couple  of  officers,  when  La 
Liberte  spied  him.    He  immediately  ran  up,  and  seizing  him  by 


difil-i. 


grateful 

may  be 
Such, 

world  a 
le  Cana- 
ry which 
I ;  and  as 
lasurably 
;hey  pur- 
ing  their 
gambling, 

[ich  hard 
In  voy- 


t.fall  hard 
out  inter- 
fectionate 
one  man 
,"  without 
em.     The 
ns  soilens 
t  of  which 
ind  gaiete 
were  so 
lal  distinc- 
f  the  part- 
e  are  Mr. 
-.  Macken- 
Donald,  le 
'as  croche  ; 
e,  or  other 

ears  in  the 

La  Chat. 

m  lady,  by 

this  event, 

It  to  Mont- 

bourgeois 

as  walking 

when  La 

ing  him  by 


DRB88  OF  THE   CANADIANS. 


307 


both  hands,  began  as  follows : — "  Ah,  mom  cher  Monsieur  ie  Chat, 
comment  vous  portez-vous  V  "  Tris  bien,  Louiaon."  "  Et  com- 
ment se  parte  Madame  la  Chatte  ?"  "  Bien,  bien ;  Louison,  elle 
est  tres  bien." — "  Et  tous  les  petits  Chatons  ?"*  This  was  too 
much  for  Mr.  Shaw,  who  answered  shortly  that  kittens  and  all 
were  well,  and  telling  him  to  call  at  his  house,  turned  away  with 
his  military  friends,  leaving  the  catechetical  Louison  quite 
ustonished  at  the  abruptness  of  his  departure. 

La  Liberte  was  an  extraordinary  old  man ;  he  had  several 
fine  daughters  by  an  Indian  wife,  and  became  father-in-law  to 
three  proprietors.  He  was  therefore  proud  of  his  connexions, 
and,  feeling  indignant  at  Mr.  Shaw's  supposed  cavalier  treat- 
ment, adopted  an  eccentric  method  of  manifesting  his  resent- 
ment. He  ordered  a  coat  to  be  made  of  fine  green  cloth,  with 
silver  buttons,  a  waistcoat  of  crimson  velvet,  back  and  front 
(like  the  sailor  at  Portsmouth),  with  cornelian  buttons,  braided 
sky-blue  pantaloons,  Hessian  boots  with  gold  tassels  and  silver 
heels,  a  hat,  feathers,  and  silk  sash  ;  and  thus  accoutred,  with  a 
long  calumet  in  his  right  hand,  and  a  splendidly  ornamented 
smoking-bag  in  his  left,  he  proceeded  to  the  Champ  de  Mars, 
during  a  regimental  parade,  and  observing  Mr.  Shaw  walking 
in  company  with  some  ladies  and  gentlemen,  he  vociferated, 
**  JHa,  ha.  Monsieur  le  Chat,  voijez  ma  veste,  voild  les  boutons ! 
En  avez-mus  de  meme  ?  Ha,  ha.  Monsieur  le  Chat,  regardez 
mes  bottcs—je  suis  ferri  d^argent  Je  suis  I  beau-pere  de  Mon- 
sieur M'Dinnill ; Monsieur  Mochenzie  est  mon  gendre ;  et 

je  me  sacrt  de  tous  les  Chats,  et  d<;  toutes  les  Chattes  /"  Some 
of  his  friends,  /ho  previous  to  his  leaving  home  observed  him 
drinking  a  quantity  of  rum,  followed  him  to  the  parade  ground, 
and  with  much  difficulty  at  lergth  succeeded  in  forcing  him  away, 
while  the  poor  old  man  every  now  and  then  lifted  up  a  leg,  and 
dared  any  Shaw,  or  officer  on  the  ground,  to  show  silver  heels 
to  his  boots ! 

The  dress  of  a  voyageur  generally  consists  of  a  capot  made  out 
of  a  blanket,  with  leather  or  cloch  trousers,  mocassins,  a  striped 
cotton  shirt,  and  a  hat  or  fi'r  cap.  They  seldom  annoy  themselves 
with  a  waistcoat ;  and  in  the  summer  season  their  necks  are 
generally  exposed.  They  all  wear  belts  of  variegated  worsted, 
from  which  their  kniv  js,  smoking-bags,  &c.  are  suspended. 
.They  enjoy  good  health,  and  with  the  exception  of  occasional 
attacks  of  rheumatism,  are  seldom  afflicted  with  disease.  The 
principal  trading  establishments  are  supplied  with  well-assorted 
medicine-chests,  containing  books  of  directions,  lancet!^,  &;c.  An 
assortment  of  the  more  simple  medicines  is  made  up  for  each 
outpost ;  and  as  each  clerk  must  learn  how  to  bleed,  we  gene- 
rally manage,  between  low  diet,  salts,  castor  oil,  opodeldoc,  uiar'a 


% 


'i 


mil 


*  ■  m 


308 


CANADIAN    VOLVNTERRS. 


balram  and  phlebotomy,  to  preserve  their  health  unimpaired,  and 
cure  anv  common  accident  which  may  befal  them. 

The  Canadians  are  not  much  inclined  to  Indian  warfare.  This, 
however,  does  not  proceed  from  any  want  of  courage ;  for  in 
the  late  short  war  with  the  United  States  they  conducted  them- 
selves with  eminent  bravery.  A  local  corps,  composed  of  the 
officers  and  men  of  the  North-West  Company,  was  raised  by 
the  honourable  William  M'Gillivray.  His  son  Mr.  Joseph 
M'Gillivray,  as  I  have  mentioned  elsewhere,  was  an  officer  in  it ; 
and  he  gave  us  some  laughable  details  relative  to  the  conduct  of 
the  privates  in  the  campaign  in  which  he  was  engaged.  When 
on  duty  in  company  with  the  regular  forces  or  the  militia  they 
were  guilty  of  much  insubordination,  and  it  was  quite  impossi- 
ble to  make  them  amenable  to  military  law.  They  generally 
came  on  parade  with  a  pipe  in  their  mouths,  and  their  rations  of 
pork  and  bread  stuck  on  their  bayonets.  On  seeing  an  officer, 
whether  general,  colonel,  or  subaltern,  they  took  on  their  hats 
and  made  a  low  bow,  with  the  common  salutation  of  Bon  jouVf 
Monsieur  le  Generel,  or  le  Colonel,  as  the  case  might  be  ;  and  if 
they  happened  to  know  that  the  officer  was  married,  never  failed 
to  inquire  after  the  health  of  Mad  ime  et  les  enfans.  On  parade 
they  talked  incessantly,  called  each  other  "  pork  eaters,"  quar- 
relled about  their  rations,  wished  they  were  back  in  the  Indian 
country  again,  &c.,  and  when  called  to  order  by  their  officers 
and  told  to  hold  their  tongues,  one  or  more  would  reply, "  Ah, 
dear  captain,  let  us  off  as  quick  as  you  can  ;  some  of  us  have 
not  yet  breakfasted,  and  it's  upwards  of  an  hour  since  1  had  a 
smoke."  If  the  officer  was  a  North- Wester  he  generally  told 
them  to  have  patience,  and  he  would  give  them  their  congi  tout 
de  suit.  In  moments  when  danger  ought  to  have  produced  a 
little  steadiness,  they  completely  set  discipline  at  defiance,  and 
the  volatile  volunteer  broke  out  into  all  the  unrestrained  mirth  and 
anti-military  familiarity  of  the  thoughtless  voyageur.  In  vain 
the  subaltern  winked,  in  vain  the  captain  threatened,  in  vain  the 
colonel  frowned  ;  neither  winks,  threats,  or  frowns  could  restrain 
the  vivacious  laugh,  silence  the  noisy  tongue,  or  compose  the 
ever-changing  features  into  any  thing  like  military  seriousness. 

These  repeated  infractions  of  the  code  militaire  subjected 
many  of  them  to  temporary  confinement ;  but  as  night  ap- 
proached, if  the  sentinel  was  a  voyageur,  he  told  the  prisoner  to 
"  aller  coucher  avec  safemme,  et  retoumer  le  lendemain  de  bonne 
heure."  This  friendly  advice  was  immediately  followed,  and 
they  had  always  the  honour  to  return  according  to  promise. 
They  could  not  be  got  to  wear  stocks ;  and  such  as  did  not  use 
cravats  came  on  parade  with  naked  necks,  and  very  often  with 
rough  beards.    In  this  condition  they  presented  a  curious  con- 


JK 


jred,aiid 

\e.  Thii, 
for  in 
3d  them* 
d  of  the 
aised  bv 
h 


cer  in  it ; 
»ndiict  of 

When 
litia  the^ 
itnpossi- 
;enerally 
rations  of 
n  officer, 
heir  hats 
3on  jouVf 

;  and  if 
irer  failed 
n  parade 
rs,"  quar- 
le  Indian 
r  officers 
ply,  "Ah, 
f  us  have 
3 1  had  a 
rally  told 
ongi  tout 
oduced  a 
ance,  and 
mirth  and 

In  vain 
n  vain  the 
d  restrain 
ipose  the 
ousness. 
subjected 
night  ap- 
risoner  to 
%de  bornie 
wed,  and 
promise, 
id  not  use 
>flen  with 
ious  con* 


r^. 


TRAPPKRS — THE   IIALF-BREBDS. 


309 


trast  to  the  unchangeable  countenances  and  well-drilled  move- 
ments of  the  British  soldiery,  with  whom  they  occasionally  did 
duty.  Notwithstanding  these  peculiarities  the  utyageura  were 
excellent  partisans,  and,  from  tlieir  superior  knowledge  of  the 
country,  were  able  to  render  material  service  during  the  wpj*. 
They  had  great  confidence  in  their  officers,  particularly  their 
colonel,  Mr.  M'Gillivray,  whose  influence  frequently  saved  them 
from  the  punishment  to  which  their  repeated  breaches  of  disci- 
pline  subjected  them. 

There  are  scattered  throughout  ihe  North- West  territories  a 
few  dozen  Canadian  trappers  called  free-men.  These  indi- 
viduals were  formerly  engaged  as  voyageurs  in  the  Company's 
service,  and  preferred,  afte.  :he  termination  of  their  respiective 
engagements,  to  remain  in  the  Indian  country  rather  than  return 
to  Canada.  They  have  generally  Indian  families,  and  from 
their  peculiar  occupation  lead  a  wandering  life. 

They  must  bring  the  produce  of  their  hunts  to  the  Company's 
posts,  when  they  receive  payment  in  goods  according  to  a  regu- 
lated tariff,  or  the  value  in  money  is  placed  to  their  credit,  and 
paid  on  their  arrival  in  Montreal.  From  their  constant  ex- 
posure to  the  sun,  these  men  are  as  irretrievably  bronzed  as  the 
native  Indians,  from  whom,  owing  to  their  long  separation  from 
their  countrymen,  they  differ  but  little  either  in  their  habits  or 
modes  of  living.  Some  of  them  have  large  bands  of  horses ; 
and,  I  understand,  a  plurality  of  wives  is  not  unfrequent  among 
them  I 


THE   HALF-BREEDS. 


■  :"t 


This  race  is  now  numerous  throughout  the  Indian  country  ; 
particularly  on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Owing  to 
the  recent  arrival  of  white  people  at  the  Columbia,  they  are  com- 
paratively few  on  the  western  side.  The  sons  of  the  Doyageurs, 
on  attaining  a  proper  age,  are  generally  engaged  in  the  Com- 
pany's service.  They  are  called  Les  Bois  Brules — but  why,  it 
IS  difficult  to  ascertain.  While  they  are  taught  to  despise  the 
traditions  of  their  mothers'  tribe,  no  one  busies  himself  in  unfold- 
ing to  them  the  divine  truths  of  Christianity,  and  the  loose  mr\n- 
ners  of  their  fathers  are  but  ill  calculated  to  impress  them  with 
any  great  respect  for  the  ties  of  morality.  It  is  therefore  not 
surprising,  that  when  precept  is  silent,  and  parental  example 
vicious,  they  should  exhibit  conduct  at  variance  with  the  rela- 
tions of  civilized  life.  They  arc  fond  of  ardent  spirits,  and  are 
much  addicted  to  swearing :  while  the  abominable  custom  of 
Indian  mothers  in  talking  in  the  most  undisguised  manner  before 
their  children  of  sexual  intercourse  creates  a  grossncss  of  ideas 


¥ 

*i'\l 


'm 


310 


HALF-BRBBD   WOMEN — A    MARRIAOB. 


Mrith  rcffard  to  female  purity,  which  may  account  in  a  great 
deffree  for  their  carelessness  on  that  head. 

They  are  good  canoe-men,  and  excellent  hunters,  remarkably 
active  either  on  horseback  or  on  foot ;  br  •  -'iring,  rather  pas- 
sionate, and,  wliile  they  possess  all  the  itv  of  thcii  father, 
they  at  times  manifest  a  slight  sympton>  .  indian  ferocity ;  this 
however  is  only  evinced  when  any  insultinc  allusion  is  made  to 
their  mixed  origin.  They  are  open-hearted  and  generous,  prac- 
tise little  cunning,  detest  hypocrisy  ;  ond  while  they  are  deter- 
mined not  to  submit  quietly  to  a  wrong,  nrn  extremely  cautious 
against  giving  any  unnecessary  cause  of  uileuce. 

The  proprietors  generally  send  their  sons  to  Canada  or  Eng- 
land for  education.  They  have  a  wonderful  aptitude  for  learn- 
ing, and  in  a  short  time  attain  u  facility  in  writing  and  speaking 
both  French  and  English  that  is  quite  astonishing.  Their  man- 
ners are  naturally  and  unaffectedly  polite,  and  their  conversation 
displays  a  degree  of  pure,  easy,  yet  impassioneJ  eloquence,  sel- 
dom heard  in  the  most  refined  societies. 

On  finishing  their  studies  those  intended  for  the  Company's 
service  enter  as  apprentice-clerks ;  and  in  course  of  time, 
according  to  their  talents  and  seniority,  become  proprietors. 

The  half-breed  women  are  excellent  wives  and  mothers,  and 
instances  of  improper  conduct  are  rare  among  them.  They  are 
very  expert   at  the  needle,  and  make  coats,  trousers,  vests, 

fowns,  shirts,  shoes,  &:c.,  in  a  manner  that  would  astonish  our 
English  fashioners.  They  are  kept  in  great  subjection  by  their 
respective  lords,  to  whom  they  are  slavishly  submissive.  They 
are  not  allowed  to  sit  at  the  same  table,  or  indeed  at  any  table, 
for  they  still  continue  the  savage  fashion  of  squatting  on  the 
ground  at  their  meals,  at  which  their  fingers  supply  the  place  of 
forks.  They  wear  no  caps  in  the  house  ;  but  m  travelling,  hats 
are  used  instead  of  bonnets.  With  the  exception  of  the  head 
their  dress  resembles  that  worn  by  the  Bavarian  broom-girls, 
who  of  late  years  visit  our  shores. 

A  gentleman  whose  name  frequently  occurs  in  these  pages, 
but  which  it  is  here  unnecessary  to  repeat,  had,  a  few  years 
afler  iis  arrival  in  the  Indian  country,  taken  a  half-breed  girl  as 
a  partner.  She  was  the  daughter  of  a  Canadian  by  a  Cree 
mother,  and  was  very  young,  handsome,  and  possessed  such 
amiable  and  engaging  manners  that  he  determined  to  bring  her 
with  him  on  his  first  visit  to  Canada,  and  legalize  their  union  by 
the  seal  of  marriage.  She  had  made  some  progress  in  reading, 
and  had  two  fine  boys,  whom  he  sent  to  Scotland  for  their  edu- 
cation.    In  short,  no  man  was  more  happy  than  young , 

no  woman  was  judged  more  perfect  than  his  interesting  wife. 
He  was  obliged  one  year  to  conduct  a  brigade  of  loaded  canoes 


CONJUGAL   INF1DBLITV. 


311 


from  his  wintering-post  to  Fort  Willinm,  and  durins  liis  absence, 
which  occupied  about  four  nnontht),  iei\  tils  wife  behind  him. 

He  returned  sooner  than  was  expected,  and,  leaving  the  canoes 
lome  distance  below  the  fort,  arrived  there  about  midnight. 
The  dogs  know  his  signal,  und  he  proceeded  without  any  noise 
or  obstruction  to  his  bedroom,  in  which  he  found  his  guilty 
partner  in  the  arms  of  another.  He  instantly  drew  his  dagger, 
with  which  he  nearly  destroyed  the  paramour,  while  she  fled  to 
one  of  the  married  men's  apartments,  in  which  she  remained 
concealed  during  the  night.  Next  morning,  when  his  passion  had 
cooled,  he  sent  for  her,  and  addressed  her  feelingly  on  her  base  and 
ungrateful  conduct.  He  declared  he  could  not  thmk  of  living  again 
with  her ;  that  he  should  send  her  to  her  father  (who  was  a  Tree 
trapper),  end  give  her  all  her  clothes,  trinkets,  he. ;  and  .iiould 
her  future  life  prove  correct,  promised  that  her  usual  supply  of 
clothes  and  provisions  should  be  regularly  furnished  her.  She 
retired  weeping,  and  deeply  affected,  ller  misconduct  preyed 
heavily  on  her  mind  ;  and  in  less  than  four  months  after  joining 
her  father,  she  was  numbered  with  the  dead.     Her  seducer 

quitted  the  Company's  service,  and  Mr. never  after 

took  a  wife.  Instances  of  this  nature  are,  however,  of  rare  oc« 
currence  among  the  half-breed  women  ;  and  taking  their  num- 
bers and  want  of  education  into  consideration,  perhaps  fewer 
cases  of  infidelity  occur  among  them  than  among  any  equal 
portion  of  females  in  the  civilized  world. 

When  a  young  trader  becomes  united  to  an  Int  an  or  half- 
breed  woman  he  seldom  calculates  on  a  family,  and  foolishly 
imagines  he  can  easily  dissolve  a  connexion  which  is  unsanc- 
tioned by  the  ceremony  of  marriage.  He  is  however  much  de- 
ceived. When  the  period  which  he  had  originally  iixed  for  quitting 
the  Indian  country  arrives,  he  finds  that  the  woman  who  had 
been  for  many  years  a  faithful  partner  cannot  in  a  moment  be 
"  whistled  off,"  and  "  let  down  the  wind  to  prey  at  fortune." 
Children  have  grown  up  about  him  ;  the  natural  affection  of  the 
father  despises  the  laws  of  civilized  society, — the  patriot  sinks 
in  the  parent, — each  succeeding  year  weakens  the  recollection  of 
home,  and  of  ...  ,  ,    .  . 

The  pleasant  fields,  travelled  so  oft, 

In  ]ifo''s  morning  march  when  his  bosom  was  young  ; 

and  in  most  cases  the  temporary  liaison  onds  in  a  permanent 
union.  Those  so  circumstanced,  on  quitting  the  Company,  brine 
their  families  to  Canada,  where  they  purchase  estates,  on  which 
they  live  in  a  kind  of  half  Indian  half  civilized  manner,  con- 
stantly smoking  their  calumet,  and  railing  at  the  fashionable  friv- 
olities of  the  great  world. 


I' 


sit 


MATRIMONY. 


When  a  tnuler  wiihen  to  Rcparato  from  his  Indian  wife,  he  ffen« 
erally  ullows  her  an  annuity,  or  gets  her  comfortably  married  to 
one  of  the  voyageurs,  who,  for  a  handfiomc  sum,  is  happy  to 
become  the  husband  of  la  dame  <Vun  Bourgema.  A  retired 
partner,  thus  disembarrassed,  arrives  in  Canada  determined  to 
enjoy  the  pleasures  of  matrimony  with  nn  educated  female.  His 
arrival  is  quickly  known,— his  object  buzzed  about.  The  ladies 
of  Montreal  ana  Quebec  are  immediately  on  the  qui  vive ;  invi- 
tations are  numerous,  the  wealthy  North- Wester  is  universally 
admired ;  bronzed  features,  Oxford-gray  hairs,  and  a  dtgagt 
tout  ensemble  impart  peculiar  interest  to  his  appearance.  When 
he  speaks  every  tongue  is  silent ; 

f. ' 

Each  moving  accident  by  flood  and  field 

is  listened  to  with  breathless  attention,  and  many  a  fair  auditor 
unconsciously  wishes  that 

Heaven  had  made  her  such  a  man. 

Music  follows,  then  a  song ;  dancing  succeeds ;  and  he  retires 
bewildered  in  joy,  and  cursing  the  fortune  that  so  long  debarred 
him  from  the  enjoyment  of  such  happiness.  His  selection  is 
quickly  made,  and  he  at  length  becomes  a  legal  Benedict. 

I  beliex'e  such  unions  are  generally  happy ;  but  the  censorious, 
particularly  those  who  remain  faithful  to  their  Indian  wives, 
assert  that  many  of  their  old  associates  have  been  sadly  duped 
in  their  matrimonial  speculations. 

These  envious  scandal- mongers  allege  that  the  unfortunate 
husband  too  quickly  discovers  that  a  bright  eye,  a  fair  face,  a 
sweet  voice,  or  a  tunc  on  the  piano  is  rather  nn  empty  compen- 
sation for  the  waste  of  a  hard-earned  fortune ;  while,  if  he  at- 
tempts to  remonstrate  against  his  wife's  extravagance,  his  inter- 
esting bronze  is  compared  to  copper,  the  Oxford-gray  assumes  a 
whiter  hue,  the  air  dfgagi  degenerates  to  the  air  slovenly ;  and 
an  English  tongue,  quite  at  variance  with  his  ideas  of  conjugal 
submission,  reminds  him  that  when  all  the  officers  in  the  garrison 
were  dying  for  her,  she  was  thrown  away  upon  a  weather-beaten, 
rheumatic,  dog-eating,  moss-chewing  barbarian,  whose  habits 
were  better  adapted  to  the  savage  society  of  Indian  squaws, 
than  to  that  of  ladies  of  education.  The  latter  gentlemen,  how- 
ever, retaliate  on  the  former  by  alleging  that  all  their  ill-natured 
reports  are  caused  by  the  refusal  of  the  white  ladies  to  visit  or 
associate  with  those  brought  down  from  the  interior,  whom  thev 
regard  as  little  better  than  savages.  There  may  be  some  truth 
on  each  side ;  but  on  which  it  preponderates  I  am  unable  to  de- 
termine. ,   •   ,. 


VlinPBOnD   BIRTH— A   illCOND   MAWMIAOB. 


313 


Very  few  men  winh  to  have  nny  oftHpring  by  their  Indian 
wivei ;  a  iteril  woman  is  thcrcfori;  invaluublc.  flioy  are  how- 
ever  icarco,  ami  happy  in  the  man  who  succecdii  in  obtaining 
one. 

One  of  the  clerks  on  the  Cohimbia,  Mr.  J ,  was  particu- 

larly  cautioned  by  his  father,  wlio  v/\m  an  old  proprietor,  ngainit 
takmg  an  Indian  wife,  lost  hu  should  be  burdened  with  children 
during  his  clerkship.  Tho  son  promised  obedience  ;  but  being 
itationedatKamloop8,ho  lunrnod  thutun  Indian  recently  drowned 
had  been  married  Hve  years,  during  which  period  his  wife  never 
had  a  child.  This  was  a  prize  not  to  bo  lost ;  and  as  he  knew  the 
parental  prohibition  was  more  lovclled  against  children  than  a 
wife,  ho  lost  no  time  in  proposing  for  tho  young  widow.  Hii 
oflfers  were  liberal,  and  were  gladly  accepted  by  her  relations. 
From  a  fancied  resemblance  to  a  late  celebrated  empress  he 
called  her  Josephine.  The  resemblance  however  wps  imperfect, 
for  nine  months  had  scarcely  elapsed  when  hia  Josephine 
brought  forth  a  thumping  swarthy  pet.  He  was  in  despair — 
immediately  dissolved  the  connexion,  cove  the  boy  to  one  of  the 
men's  wives  to  nurse,  and  sent  home  the  mother  with  a  plentiful 
stock  of  clothes  and  presents,  which  quickly  obtained  her  an- 
other husband. 

Mr.  J was  transferred  that  autumn  from  the  Columbia 

to  the  Athabasca  department,  to  replace  a  Mr.  C — •—  who 
was  about  quitting  the  country,  and  leaving  behind  him  a  hand- 
some half-breed  wife.    J succeeded  him  both  in  bed  avid 

board,  with  what  results  will  appear  from  the  following  ax- 
tract  of  a  letter  which  I  subsequently  receivod  from  him  : 

"  You  are  aware  of  the  cause  which  obliged  me  to  repudiate 
iny  Columbian  wife,  Jose|)hinc.  Another  great  man  repudiated 
his  Josephine  for  the  opposite  cause  ;  but,  n'importe,  I  divorced 
myself,  and  resolved  thenceforth  never  to  run  the  risk  of  having 
another  child  in  the  pays  sauvage.     On  my  arrivtl  here,  I  found 

my  friend  C on  the  point  of  quitting  Athabasca,  and  bidding 

adieu  to  his  wife,  la  belle  Francmse,  one  of  the  finest  women  in 
the  department.  Her  history  is  rather  hors  du  commun.  Her 
father  was  a  Canadian  guide,  and  at  the  nge  of  fourteen  gave 
her  in  marriage  to  an  interpreter,  with  whom  she  lived  three 
years  without  children,  when  she  became  a  widow  in  conse- 
quence of  her  husband  having  been  killed  by  some  of  the  Blood 

Indians.    Mr.  C shortly  after  became  her  husband,  and 

brought  her  to  Athabasca,  where  she  lived  with  him  eight  years 
sans  enfans. 

"  She  had  lived  eleven  years  with  two  husbands,  and  her 
character  therefore  was  firmly  established.  She  was  besides  a 
fine  woman,  good  tempered,  and  remarkably  ingenious.     I  there- 


#*•? 


314 


ANOTHER   UNEXPECTED   BIRTH — INDIAN   TRIBES. 


fore  determined  to  secure  such  a  prize,  and  made  my  proposals 
in  due  form.  Che  was  her  own  mistress  ^  and  happy  at  catch^ 
ing  such  a  respectable  successor  to  her  late  lord,  she  at  once  con- 
sented to  become  mine. 

"  Ere  a  few  months  passed  symptoms  of  a  most  suspicious 
nature  began  to  appear  ;  but  I  could  not  imagine  my  Franqaise 
would  turn  mother ;  it  might  be  dropsy — any  thing  in  fact  but 
pregnancy — but  *  list,  oh  list.'  On  the  first  of  April  we  became 
one  (the  day  was  ominous),  and  on  that  day  nine  months  precisely 
(it  is  a  melancholy  coincidence  of  dates)  she  presented  me  with 
a  New-year's  gift  in  the  shape  of  a  man-child  !  But  the  cup  of 
my  misfortunes  is  not  yet  full.  Owing  to  some  mamillary  mal- 
formation, she  was  unable  to  supply  the  brass  bantling  with  milk, 
which  obliged  me  to  give  it  to  nurse  to  one  ol  the  men's  wives. 
Apprehensive  of  having  another,  I  resolved  on  a  separation,  but 
I  knew  not  how  to  break  my  intention  to  her.  The  new-born 
delight  of  a  mother  seemed  to  absorb  all  her  faculties.  The 
child  is  continually  in  her  hands,  she  says  he's  my  picture,  and 
to  do  the  little  rascal  justice,  I  think  there  is  a  likeness ;  but 
to  my  story  : — while  I  was  deliberating  as  to  the  least  painful 
mode  of  conveying  my  resolution  to  her,  I  received  a  few  day» 
since  the  astounding  intelligence  of  her  being  encore  enceinte  I  f 
Murder !  murder !  isn't  this  too  bad  ?  Still  I  can't  blame  her, 
knowing  that  1  am  a  partieeps  criminis.  But  what  will  the  gov- 
ernor say  ?  Ay,  that's  the  question.  In  two  years  two  copper 
grand-cliildren  ;  three  I  mean,  for  I  understand  my  Columbian 
pet  is  thriving  apace.  Why,  the  old  gentleman  will  destroy  me. 
Was  ever  a  man  so  tricked  ?  There's  the  fruits  of  strivmg  to 
cheat  Nature  ;  but  I  must  send  him  a  long,  explanatory,  apolo- 
getical  letter,  introduce  morality,  &c.  Franqaise  may  now  as 
well  remain  until  I  hear  from  him  ;  and  if  he  interposes  no  ob- 
jection, I  do  not  intend  to  change  her.  I  have  called  my  last 
Hector.    Adieu  F' 

The  third  description  of  men  in  the  Company's  service  are 
the  Iroquois,  Nipisings,  and  others  of  the  native  tribes  of  Ca- 
nada. These  Indians  have  been  all  nearly  reclaimed  from  their 
original  state  of  barbarism,  and  now  profess  the  Roman  Catholic 
religion.  They  engage  for  limited  periods  in  the  Company's 
service  as  canoe-men  and  hunters,  but  on  lower  terms  than  are 
usually  allowed  to  the  French  Canadians.  They  are  strong, 
able-bodied  men,  good  hunters,  and  well  acquainted  with  the 
management  of  canoes.  They  are  immoderately  attached  to 
the  use  of  ardent  spirits ;  are  rather  quarrelsome,  revengeful, 
and  sometimes  insubordinate  ;  and  during  their  periods  of  intoxi- 
cation the  utmost  prudence  and  firmness  are  necessary  to  check 
their  ferocious  propensities,  and  confine  them  within  proper 


9. 


EFFKCT  OF   DRUNKENNESS — BLOODY  COMBAT. 


315 


proposals 

at  cBtcIV' 
once  con- 
suspicious 
Fran(;aise 
n  fact  but 
e  became 

precisely 
d  me  with 
the  cup  of 
llary  mal- 
with  milk, 
n's  wives. 

at  ion,  but 
new-born 
ies.  The 
eture,  and 
ness ;  but 
ast  painfu) 

few  day» 
mceinte !  f 
»lame  her, 
11  the  gov- 
ivo  copper 
]^olumbian 
estroy  me. 
strivmg  to 
)ry,  apolo- 
ay  now  as 
ises  no  ob- 
sd  my  last 

ervice  are 
)es  of  Ca- 
from  their 
n  Catholic 
Company's 
IS  than  ai-e 
re  strong, 
with  the 
tached  to 
avengeful, 
i  of  intoxi- 
y  to  check 
tin  proper 


bounds.  They  are  generally  employed  on  the  east  side  of  the 
mountains,  but  we  had  a  few  of  them  on  the  Columbia.  One, 
named  George  Teewhattahownie,  was  a  powerful  man  about 
six  feet  high.  On  one  occnsion,  during  our  voyage  to  the  sea, 
we  had  a  stiff  breeze,  and  George,  who  was  foreman  of  my 
canoe,  kept  up  a  heavy  press  of  sail.  I  requested  him  repeat- 
edly to  take  in  a  reef,  and  pointed  out  the  danger  to  which  we 
were  exposed  in  the  event  of  an  accident.  He  appeared  to 
pay  no  attention  to  my  request,  and  I  was  at  length  obliged  to 
use  peremptory  and  threatening  language,  which  produced  a 
forced  and  sulky  obedience.  A  few  days  after  our  arrival  at 
Fort  George  he  came  into  my  room  in  a  state  of  intoxication, 
and  ungovernable  rage,  with  a  vessel  containing  rum  in  his  left 
hand,  and  in  his  right  his  couteau  de  chasse ;  in  short,  his  whole 
appearance  was  wild  and  savage,  and  I  at  once  guessed  his  visit 
was  not  of  a  friendly  nature.  His  opening  speech  realized  my 
suspicions. 

"  Cox,  you  toad,  prepare  for  death !  you  abused  me,  and  I 
must  have  my  revenge." 

"  You're  not  sober,  George ;  go  sleep  a  while,  and  we'll  talk 
on  this  subject  to-morrow." 

"  No ;  you  insulted  me  before  the  men,  and  I  must  have  satis- 
faction ;  but  as  you're  a  young  man,  I  will  now  only  take  one 
of  your  ears !" 

1  became  a  little  easy  on  finding  he  had  lowered  his  demands ; 
but  as  I  had  an  equal  affection  for  both  lugs,  and  as  "  the  preju- 
dice ran  in  favour  of  two,"  I  had  no  wish,  like  Jack  Absolute,  to 
afiect  singularity  in  that  respect.  After  some  further  parley,  and 
finding  he  was  determined  to  try  his  knife  on  my  auricular  carti- 
lages, I  told  him  to  retire,  or  I  should  he  obliged  to  order  him 
into  confinement.  "  Ha !  crapaud  !"  said  he,  "  do  you  threaten 
Teewhattahownie  1"  and  r^  tiie  same  instant  rushed  on  me  like  a 

grizzly  bear.  I  was  now  forced  to  draw  my  dagger  in  selt 
efence,  and  in  parrying  off  his  thrust  gave  him  a  severe  wound 
across  the  fingers  of  the  right  hand.  He  dropped  the  knife,  but 
instantly  seized  it  with  the  left  hand,  and  at  the  same  time 
attempted  to  catch  me,  which  I  avoided  by  running  under  his 
arm,  and  as  he  turned  round  was  compelled  to  give  him  u  severe 
cut,  which  nearly  laid  open  one  side  of  his  head.  He  now 
became  quite  furious,  roared  like  a  buffalo,  and  with  the  blood 
streaming  down  his  face  appeared  more  like  a  demon  than  a 
human  being.  I  thought  to  fly,  but  in  the  attempt  he  seized  the 
skirt  of  my  coat,  and  I  was  obliged  once  more  tc  give  him 
another  wound  across  the  left  hand,  which  obliged  him  to  dr(^ 
the  knife ;  a  desperate  struggle  then  followed  for  the  dagger, 
whicb,  from  his  great  sXxenph,  he  must  have  wrested  from  me, 


•<  i 


MHM 


816 


CONTRITION — RETIIOSFECTION. 


:n  n 


had  not  the  noise  occasioned  by  his  belloMring,  and  my  cries  for 
assistance,  brought  Mr.  Montour  and  some  oT  the  men  into  the 
room.  With  much  difficulty  they  succeeded  in  binding  him 
hand  and  foot,  and  lodging  him  in  the  guard-room.  He  tore  off 
the  dressings  that  were  applied  to  his  wounds,  refused  every 
assistance,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  night  was  spent  in  wild 
yells  and  ferocious  tiireats  against  me.  Nature  at  last  became 
exhausted,  and  he  fell  asleep,  in  which  state  his  wounds  were 
dressed.  None  of  them  were  dangerous.  Between  the  loss  of 
blood  and  a  long  fast  he  became  quite  cool  on  the  following  day, 
and  when  told  of  what  had  occurred  he  could  scarcely  believe  it, 
cursed  the  rum  as  the  cause,  and  made  a  solemn  promise  never 
again  to  drink  to  intoxication.  At  the  end  of  a  couple  of  days  I 
interceded  and  had  him  liberated.  He  appeared  most  grateful, 
acknowledged  that  he  deserved  what  he  got,  expressed  his  sur- 
prise that  1  did  not  kill  him,  and  declared  if  he  ever  heard  a  man 
say  a  bad  word  of  me  for  wounding  him  he  would  knock  him 
down.  I  believe  his  regret  was  sincere,  and  from  that  period 
until  the  following  year,  when  I  quitted  the  Columbia,  I  never 
saw  him  in  a  state  of  inebriety. 


CONCLUSION. 


Coalition  of  the  two  Companies — New  Caledonia — DeBcription  of  the  Cbil- 
cotina,  Talkotina,  &c. — Soil,  produce,  lakes,  rivers,  animalei,  climate — Pecu- 
liarities  oi*  the  natives — Suicides — Cruelty  to  relatives — Horrible  treatment 
of  prisoners — Sanguinary  quarrels — Extraordinary  ceremonies  attending 
the  dead — Barbarities  practised  on  widows,  &c. — Table  of  population. 

It  will  be  seen  from  a  perusal  of  the  foregoing  pages  that 
they  contain  simply  a  detail  of  such  events  as  occurred  under 
my  own  observation,  or  were  contemporaneous  with  my  resi- 
dence in  the  interior.  I  thought  it  better  to  follow  this  course, 
than,  by  the  introduction  of  new  matter,  to  break  in  on  the  regu- 
lar chronological  order  of  the  narrative.  Since  I  left  the  Indian 
country  I  have  maintained  a  correspondence  with  many  of  my 
old  associates  there,  particularly  Mr.  Joseph  M'Gillivray,  from 
whose  friendly  communications  the  information  contained  in  the 
following  pages  is  chiefly  extracted. 

It  will,  I  have  no  doubt,  be  found  highly  interesting ;  and  his 
description  of  New  Caledonia  furnishes  the  only  information  we 
possess  of  a  portion  of  the  American  continent  respecting  which 
we  have  been  heretofore  perfectly  ignorant. 

A  few  years  subsequent  to  my  quitting  the  Columbia,  the  Com- 


1 


r  cries  for 
1  into  the 
iding  him 
[e  tore  off 
sed  every 
It  in  wild 
3t  became 
inds  were 
the  loss  of 
wing  day, 
believe  it, 
lise  never 
1  of  days  I 
t  grateful, 
;d  his  sur- 
ard  a  man 
Lnock  him 
bat  period 
a,  I  never 


of  the  Chil- 
(late — Pecu- 
le  treatment 
8  attending 
ulation. 

>iiges  that 
red  under 
I  my  resi- 
lis  course, 
1  the  re^- 
the  Indian 
my  of  my 
Tay,  from 
ned  in  the 

\ ;  and  his 
nation  we 
ing  which 

,  the  Com< 


UNION   OF  THE   COMPANIES — NEW   CALEDONIA. 


317 


pany  abandoned  Fort  George  (of  which  I  have  made  such  fre- 
quent mention),  and  erected  another  on  a  larger  scale  in  a  beau- 
tiful situation  at  Bellevue  Point,  on  the  northern  shore,  and  about 
eighty  miles  from  the  entrance  of  the  river.  This  point  was  so 
named  by  Lieutenant  Broughton,  who  had  been  sent  up  the  Co- 
lumbia by  Vancouver,  and  in  honour  of  the  latter  the  Company 
has  called  the  new  establishment  "  Fort  Vancouver." 

The  long  and  violent  opposition  between  the  Hudson's-Bay 
and  North-West  Companies  ceased  in  the  year  1821,  by  their 
coalition.  The  ruinous  rivalship  that  so  long  existed  between 
them  must  have  ultimately  proved  destructive  to  both,  had  not  a 
few  sensible  men  come  forward,  and  by  their  united  exertions 
succeeded  in  forming  a  junction.  The  preliminaries  were  signed 
in  London,  in  March,  1821,  and  confirmed  at  Fort  William  by 
the  wintering  partners  in  the  July  following.  The  particulars  of 
the  treaty  would  be  uninteresting  to  the  general  reader ;  and  I 
shall  here  only  remark  that  the  old  North-Westers  are  by  no 
means  pleased  with  it,  and  loudly  complain  of  some  of  its  minor 
arrangements,  &c. 

NEW   CALEDONIA. 

This  district  extends  from  51°  SC  north  lat.  to  about  56°.  Its 
extreme  western  boundary  is  124°  10'.  Its  principal  trading- 
post  is  called  Alexandria,  after  the  celebrated  traveller  Sir  Alex- 
ander Mackenzie.  It  is  built  on  the  banks  of  Fraser's  River,  in 
about  lat.  53°  N.  The  country  in  its  immediate  vicinity  presents 
a  beautiful  and  picturesque  appearance.  The  banks  of  the  river 
are  rather  low ;  but  a  little  distance  inland  some  rising  grounds 
are  visible,  partially  diversified  by  groves  of  fir  and  poplar. 

Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie,  in  his  voyage  of  discovery  across 
the  continent  in  1793,  came  to  the  spot  on  which  the  fort  is  built, 
and  was  dissuaded  by  the  Indians  from  following  the  course  of 
the  river  to  its  mouth.  On  quitting  this  place  he  proceeded  to 
the  West  Road  river,  from  whence  by  an  over-land  journey  he 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

This  country  is  full  of  small  lakes,  rivers,  and  marshes.  It 
extends  about  ten  days'  march  in  a  north  and  north-east  direc- 
tion. To  the  south  and  south-east  the  Atnah,  or  Chin  Indian 
country  extends  about  one  hundred  miles  ;  on  the  cast  there  is  a 
chain  of  lakes,  and  the  mountains  bordering  Thomps  jn's  River ; 
while  to  the  westward  and  north-west  lie  the  lands  of  the  Nasko- 
tins  and  Clinches. 

The  principal  rivers  are  Fraser's,  Quesnel's,  Rough  Poplar, 
Chilcotin,  and  West  Road.    Of  these  Fraser's  River  only  ii 


318 


soil, VEGETATION. 


>?-iw 


navigable.     It  receives  the  waters  of  Quesnel's  and  West  Poplar 
rivers,  which  issue  from  small  lakes  to  the  eastward. 

The  lakes  are  numerous,  and  some  of  them  tolerably  large  : 
one,  two,  and  even  three  days  are  at  times  required  to  cross 
some  of  them.  They  abound  in  a  plentiful  variety  of  fish,  such 
as  trout,  sucker,  &c. ;  and  the  natives  assert  that  white  fish  is 
sometimes  taken.  These  lakes  are  generally  fed  by  mountain 
streams,  and  many  of  them  spreaJ  out,  and  are  lost  in  the  sur- 
romiu.iig  marshes. 

In  visiting  the  Naskotin  and  Chin  Indians,  our  conveyance  is 
by  canoes  on  Eraser's  River ;  but  our  journeys  to  Bear  Lake, 
Kloukins,  and  Chilcotins,  must  be  performed  on  foot. 

The  trading  goods  are  now  obtained  from  the  Columbia  de- 
partment, to  which  the  returns  of  furs  are  forwarded.  Horses 
are  used  for  conveying  the  goods,  and  the  joUrney  generally 
occupies  six  weeks.  The  roads  are  extremely  bad,  and  in  every 
direction  we  encounter  numerous  rivulets,  small  lakes,  and 
marshes. 

The  soil  is  poor :  an  indifferent  mould,  not  exceeding  eight 
inches  in  depth,  covers  a  bed  of  gravel  and  sand.  All  the  vege- 
tables we  planted,  notwithstanding  the  utmost  care  and  precau- 
tion, nearly  failed  ;  and  the  last  crop  of  potatoes  did  not  yield 
one-fourth  of  the  seed  planted. 

On  the  banks  c^  the  river,  and  in  the  interior,  the  trees  con- 
sist of  poplar,  cypress,  alder,  cedar,  birch,  and  different  species 
of  fir,  spruce,  and  willow.  There  is  not  the  same  variety  of 
wild  fruit  as  on  the  Coluinbia  ;  and  this  year  (1827)  the  berries 
generally  failed.  Service-berries,  choke-cherries,  gooseberries, 
strawberries,  and  red  whortleberries  are  gathered ;  but  among 
the  Indians  the  service-berry  is  the  great  favourite.  There  are 
various  kinds  of  roots,  which  the  natives  preserve  and  dry  for 
periods  of  scarcity.  There  is  only  one  I'ind  which  we  can  eat. 
It  is  called  tza-chin,  has  a  bitter  taste,  bu'  «vhen  eaten  with 
salmon  imparts  an  agreeable  zest,  and  effectually  destroys  the 
disagreeable  smell  of  that  fish  when  smoke-dried.  St.  John's 
wort  is  very  common,  and  has  been  successfully  applied  as  a 
jR>mentation  in  topical  "nflammations.  A  kind  of  weed,  which 
the  natives  convert  into  a  species  of  flax,  is  in  general  demand. 
An  evergreen  similar  to  that  we  found  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia, (and  before  described),  with  small  berries  growing  in 
clusters  like  grapes,  also  flourishes  in  this  district.  Sarsaparilla 
and  bear-root  are  found  in  abundance  A  strong  decociion  of 
the  two  latter  with  the  berries  last  mentioned  has  been  repeat- 
edly tried  by  our  men  in  venereal  cases,  and  has  always  proved 
successful. 


m 


ist  Poplar 

>ly  large : 
to  cross 
fish,  such 
ite  fish  is 
mountain 
the  sur- 

eyance  is 
iar  Lake, 

tmbia  de- 
Horses 
generally 
I  in  every 
ikes,  and 

ling  eight 
the  vege- 
d  precau- 
not  yield 

rees  con- 
it  species 
variety  of 
le  berries 
seberries, 
it  among 
Phere  are 
d  dry  for 
i  can  eat. 
aten  with 
troys  the 
3t.  Jolm's 
ilied  as  a 
;d,  which 
demand, 
f  the  Co- 
owing  in 
irsaparilla 
lociion  of 
in  repeat^ 
fs  proved 


MINSRAIiS — ANIMALS — CLIMATE. 


3ia 


White  earth  abounds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort ;  and  one 
description  of  it,  mixed  with  oil  and  lime,  might  be  converted 
into  excellent  soap.  Coal  in  considerable  quantities  has  been 
discovered ;  and  in  many  places  we  obsen^ed  a  species  of  red 
earth,  much  resembling  lava,  and  which  appeared  to  be  of  vol- 
canic origin. 

We  also  found  in  different  parts  of  New  Caledonia  quartz, 
rock  crystal,  cobalt,  talc,  iron,  marcasites  of  a  gold  colour,  gra- 
nite, fuller's  earth,  some  beautiful  specimens  of  black  marble, 
and  limestone  in  small  quantities,  which  appeared  to  have  been 
forced  down  the  beds  of  the  rivers  from  the  mountains. 

The  jumping-deer,  or  chevreuil,  together  with  the  rein  and 
red-deer,  frequent  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains  in  considerable 
numbers,  and  in  the  summer  season  they  oftentimes  descend  to 
the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  the  adjacent  flat  country. 

I'he  marmot  and  wood-rat  also  abound :  the  flesh  of  the 
former  is  exquisite,  and  capital  robes  are  made  out  of  its  skin ; 
but  the  latter  is  a  very  destructive  animal. 

Their  dogs  are  of  diminutive  size,  and  strongly  resemble  those 
of  the  Esquimaux,  with  the  curled- up  tail,  small  ears,  and  pointed 
nose.  We  purchased  numbers  of  them  for  the  kettle,  their  flesh 
constituting  the  chief  article  of  food  in  our  holiday  feasts  for 
Christmas  and  New-year. 

The  fur-bearing  animals  consist  of  beavers ;  bears,  black, 
brown,  and  grizzly ;  otters,  fishers,  lynxes,  martins ;  foxes,  red, 
cross,  and  silver ;  minks,  musquash,  wolverines,  and  ermines. 
Rabbits  also  are  so  numerous  that  the  natives  manage  to  subsist 
on  them  during  the  periods  that  salmon  is  scarce. 

Under  the  head  of  ornithology  we  have  the  bustard,  or  Cana- 
dian outarde  (wild  goose),  swans,  ducks  of  various  descriptions, 
hawks,  plovers,  cranes,  white-headed  eagles,  magpies,  crows, 
vultures,  wood-thrush,  red-breasted  thrush,  or  robin,  woodpeck- 
ers, gulls,  pelicans,  hawks,  partridges,  pheasants,  and  snow- 
birds. 

The  spring  commences  in  April,  when  the  wild  flowers  begin 
to  bud,  and  from  thence  to  the  latter  end  of  May  the  weather 
is  delightful.  In  June  it  rains  incessantly,  with  strong  southerly 
and  easterly  winds.  During  the  months  of  July  and  August  the 
heat  is  intolerable ;  and  in  September  the  fogs  are  so  dense  that 
it  is  quite  impossible  to  distinguish  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
any  morning  before  ten  o'clock.  Colds  and  rheumatisms  are 
prevalent  among  the  natives  during  this  period :  nor  are  our 
people  exempt  from  them.  In  October  the  falling  of  the  leaves 
and  occasional  frost  announce  the  beginning  of  winter.  The 
lakes  and  parts  of  the  river  are  frozen  in  November.  The  snow 
seldom  exceeds  twenty-four  inches  in  depth.    The  mercury  in 


;i: 


I 


r 


•51  ! 


-i1 


SALMON   FISHERY — FISH. 


Fahrenheit's  thermometer  falls  in  January  to  15°  below  0 ;  but 
this  does  not  continue  many  days.  In  general,  I  may  say,  the 
climate  is  neither  unhealthy  nor  unpleasant ;  and  if  the  natives 
used  common  prudence,  they  would  undoubtedly  live  to  an  ad- 
vanced age. 

The  salmon  fishery  commences  about  the  middle  of  July,  and 
ceases  in  October.  This  is  a  busy  period  for  the  natives ;  for 
upon  their  industry  in  saving  a  sufficiency  of  salmon  for  the 
winter  depends  their  chief  support.  Their  method  of  catching 
the  salmon  is  ingenious,  and  does  not  differ  much  from  that  prac- 
tised by  the  upper  natives  of  the  Columbia.  A  certain  part  of 
the  river  is  enclosed  by  a  number  of  stakes  about  twelve  feet 
high,  and  extending  about  thirty  feet  from  the  shore.  A  netting 
ofrods  is  attached  to  the  stakes  to  prevent  the  salmon  running 
through.  A  conical  machine,  called  a  vorveau,  is  next  formed :  it  is 
eighteen  feet  long,  and  five  feet  high,  and  is  made  ofrods  about  one 
inch  and  a  quarter  asunder,  and  lashed  to  hoops  with  whattap.* 
One  end  is  formed  like  a  funnel  to  admit  the  fish.  Two  smaller 
machines  of  nearly  equal  length  are  joined  to  it.  It  requires  a 
number  of  hands  to  attach  these  vorveaux  to  the  stakes.  They 
are  raised  a  little  out  of  the  water ;  and  the  salmon  in  their  as- 
cent leap  into  the  boot  or  broad  part,  and  fall  into  the  enclosed 
space,  where  they  are  easily  killed  with  spears.  This  contrivance 
is  admirably  calculated  to  catch  fish  ;  and  when  salmon  is  abund- 
ant, the  natives  take  from  eight  to  nine  hundred  daily. 

The  salmon  fishery  this  year  (1827)  completely  failed,  which 
obliged  us  to  send  to  Kamloops,  a  post  belonging  to  the  Colum- 
bia department,  for  a  supply.  We  got  thence  two  thousand  five 
hundred,  and  subsequently  one  thousand  five  hundred  from  Mr. 
Connolly,  which,  with  some  of  our  old  stock  and  thirty-five  kegs 
of  potatoes,  kept  us  from  starvation. 

Jub,  suckers,  trout, and  white  fish  are  caught  in  the  lakes;  and 
in  the  month  of  October,  towards  the  close  of  the  salmon  fish- 
ery, we  catch  trout  of  the  most  exquisite  flavour.  Large-sized 
sturgeon  are  occasionally  taken  in  the  vorveaux,  but  they  are 
not  relished  by  the  natives. 

In  consequence  of  several  of  the  Chilcotin  tribe  having  rep- 
resented that  beaver  was  plentiful  in  their  country,  some  of  our 
people  visited  it,  whose  statements  fully  corroborated  those  of 
the  Indians ;  and  the  northern  council  of  Rupert's  Land  there- 
fore determined  about  two  years  ago  to  establish  a  trading-post 
in  that  quarter.    A  circumstance,  however,  shortly  after  occurred 

*  A  tough  fibrous  root,  used  in  sowing  bark  canoes.  It  is  oplit  into  varioui 
lengths,  quite  flat  and  fiexible,  and  seldom  exceeding  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in 
breadth.  / 


INDIAN   REVENGE — SAVAGE   WAR. 


331 


V  0 ;  but 
'  say, the 
3  natives 
to  an  ad- 
July,  and 
ives;  for 
I  for  the 
catching 
hat  prac- 
n  part  of 
elve  feet 
A  netting 
1  running 
med :  it  is 
about  one 
ivhattap.* 
o  smaller 
equires  a 
s.  They 
their  as- 
enclosed 
ntrivance 
is  abund- 

ed,  which 
e  Colum- 
isand  five 
from  Mr. 
five  kegs 

ikes ;  and 

mon  fish- 

irge-sized 

they  are 

iving  rep- 
ne  of  our 
those  of 
nd  there- 
ding-post 
•  occurred 


into  varioui 
an  inch  in 


which  has  hitherto  (>rcvented  the  Company  from  carrying  their 
intention  into  effect. 

The  Talkotins.  who  inhabit  the  banks  of  Eraser's  River,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Alexandria,  were  formerly  on  the  most  friendly  terms 
with  the  Chilcotins,  and  when  salmon  failed  among  the  latter 
they  were  always  permitted  to  fish  in  Eraser's  River. 

In  the  winter  of  1826,  four  young  men  of  the  Talkotins  oro- 
ceeded  on  a  hunting  excursion  to  the  Chilcotin  lands.  A  quar- 
rel, the  cause  of  which  we  could  never  ascertain,  occurred 
between  them,  and  three  of  the  young  men  were  butchered. 
The  fourth,  who  escaped  dangerously  wounded,  arrived  at  the 
fort  on  the  19th  March,  and  immediately  communicated  the  dis- 
astrous intelligence  to  his  countrymen.  One  Chilcotin,  who  wag 
at  the  fort,  would  have  fallen  a  victim  to  their  revenge  had  we 
not  interfered,  and  with  much  difficulty  concealed  him  until  an 
opportunity  offered  for  his  escape  ;  which,  notwithstanding  the 
vigilance  of  his  enemies,  he  effected.*  A  sanguinary  war  fol- 
lowed, and  in  some  skirmishes  the  Talkotin  chief  lost  three 
nephews.  This  determined  him  to  carry  hostilities  into  the  ene- 
my's camp ;  and  having  selected  a  chosen  band  of  warriors, 
twenty-four  in  number,  they  departed  on  the  19th  of  April,  and 
on  the  30th  of  June  returned  with  five  prisoners,  and  the  scalps 
of  twelve  men,  women,  and  children,  whom  they  had  surprised 
and  killed. 

A  large  party  of  Chilcotins,  who  were  quite  ignorant  of  the 
rival  chiefs  successful  expedition,  appeared  on  the  2l8t  June 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  opposite  the  fort.  They  killed  one 
stray  Talkotin,  but  retired  without  coming  to  a  general  engage- 
ment. A  few  weeks  afterward,  a  party  consisting  of  twenty- 
seven  made  their  appearance,  and  tlieir  chief  made  an  oration, 
which,  owing  tc  a  strong  wind,  we  could  not  understand.  They 
encountered  some  of  our  people  who  were  attending  the  gai- 
dens  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  but  did  not  injure  them. 
They  also  retired  v  ithout  coming  to  blows.  During  the  sum- 
mer, the  Talkotins  were  constantly  kept  on  the  qui  vive  by  vari- 
ous rumours  of  intended  attacks ;  and  at  length,  on  the  morning 
of  the  24th  September,  a  formidable  party  of  Chilcotins,  amount- 
ing to  eighty  warriors,  appeared  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  The 
Talkotins  were  lodged  in  a  log-hotise,  surrounded  by  rows  of 
gtrong  palisadef.  with  numerous  loop-holes  between.  The  bat- 
tle commenced  a  little  after  daybreak  ;  but,  owing  to  the  man- 
ner in  which  the  latter  were  protected,  their  loss  was  trifling — 
say  one  man  and  one  old  woman  killed  ;  while  that  of  the  Chil- 
cotins amounted  to  six  killed  and  many  dangerously  wounded. 

*  Thu  poor  fellow  waa  subsequently  murdered  b;  a  Talkotin. 

Rr 


II 


^rJ 


mSim- 


■^ 


332 


CIIILCOTIN    COUNTRY — THE    CHILCOTIN8. 


I 


I 


« 


Btill  they  pressed  on,  and  might  have  been  ultimately  successfuf, 
had  we  not  forwarded  to  the  Tulkotins  a  supply  of  arms  and 
ammunition,  which  effectually  checked  their  advances  on  the 
log-house.  A  woman  of  the  Chilcotin  tribe,  who  happened  to 
be  at  the  fort,  observing  the  assistance  we  had  given  the  enemy, 
stole  away  unperceived  and  communicated  to  her  countrymen 
the  circumstance  ;  on  learning  which,  they  at  once  determined 
to  retreat.  On  their  departure  they  denounced  vengeance 
against  us,  and  threatened  to  cut  off  all  white  men  that  might 
tnereafler  fall  in  their  way. 

No  friendly  overture  has  been  since  made  by  either  tribe ; 
and  although  we  sent  word  repeatedly  to  the  Chilcotins  that  we 
should  feel  happy  in  bringing  about  a  reconciliation,  we  have  not 
as  yet  received  an  answer,  and  none  of  them  have  been  seen 
in  our  neighbourhood  since  Sept.  1826.  Notwithstanding  this 
apparent  disinclination  on  their  part  to  renew  relations  of  friend- 
ship, we  determined  in  the  autumn  of  1827,  to  establish  a  trading- 
post  in  their  country ;  but  were  prevented  from  doing  so  by  the 
total  failure  of  salmon. 

I  herewith  subjoin  a  brief  sketch  of  the  district.  The  Chil- 
cotin River  takes  its  rise  in  a  lake  of  the  same  name  ;  its  course 
from  Alexandria  is  S.  S.  £. ;  its  length,  including  its  meanderings, 
about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles ;  and  its  breadth  varies  from 
forty  to  sixty  yards:  it  is  quite  shallow,  and  full  of  rapids.  The 
lake  is  about  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  sixty  miles  in  length, 
and  is  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains,  from  which  a  number  of 
small  rivulets  descend.  It  contains  abundance  of  sucker,  trout, 
and  white  fish.  Salmon  however  is  the  favourite  fish  ;  but  as  it 
does  not  regularly  descend  their  river,  they  are  often  obliged  to 
content  themselves  with  the  produce  of  the  lake.  They  are 
poor  hunters,  otherwise  they  might  chiefly  subsist  on  animal 
food ;  for  the  rein-deer,  with  the  red  and  moose  deer,  are  found 
in  great  numbers  in  the  mountains ;  and  in  the  autumnal  months 
the  black-tail  and  jumping-deer  are  plentiful.  Beaver  must  be 
abundant ;  for  men,  women,  and  children  are  clad  in  robes  of 
the  fur  of  that  animal. 

It  is  impossible  to  ascertain  with  accuracy  the  number  of  the 
tribe ;  but  I  conceive  the  men  capable  of  bearing  arms  cannot 
be  under  one  hundred  and  eighty.  They  are  cleanly  in  their 
persons,  and  remarkably  hospitable. 

The  Chilcotins  speak  the  Carrier  language,  but  many  of  their 
words  bear  a  strong  affinity  to  the  Slave  Indian  dialect. 

They  are  extremelj;  fond  of  iron-works,  and  appear  to  be 
well  acquainted  with  the  use  of  firearms.  We  saw  one  excellent 
gun  in  their  possession,  marked  "  Barret,  1808."  The  owner 
said  he  purchased  it  from  Indians  who  came  from  the  sea-coast. 


t 


i\  * 


INDIAN  TSIBEB — DIRTINESS. 


333 


luccessfuf, 
arms  and 
es  on  tli8 
ppened  to 
le  enemy, 
untrymen 
etermined 
vengeance 
hat  might 

ler  tribe ; 
ns  that  we 
ro  have  not 
been  seen 
inding  this 
I  of  friend- 
\  a  trading* 
f  so  by  the 

The  Chil- 
its  course 
ianderings, 
varies  from 
pids.  The 
s  in  length, 
number  of 
cker,  trout, 
1 ;  but  as  it 
I  obliged  to 
They  are 
on  animal 
',  are  found 
inal  months 
er  must  be 
in  robes  of 

iber  of  the 
-ms  cannot 
nly  in  their 

iny  of  their 
set. 

pear  to  be 
le  excellent 
The  owner 
i  sea-coast. 


According  to  their  accounts  travellers  may  in  six  days,  from  the 
end  of  Chilcotin  Lake,  after  crossing  a  mnf  ',  of  mountains, 
reach  a  river  in  a  southerly  direction  which  discliurges  its  waters 
into  the  ocean,  at  a  place  where  the  Indians  carry  on  a  traffic 
with  Europeans.  From  their  general  behaviour  we  were  led  to 
imagine  they  must  have  hud  frequent  intercourse  with  the  whites ; 
and  a  peculiar  kind  of  blanket,  resembling  a  rug,  which  was  in 
common  use  among  them,  we  supposed  had  been  obtained  from 
Russian  traders.  The  journey  from  Alexandria  to  the  Chilcotin 
lake  occupies  eighteen  days  ;  and  as  a  proof  of  the  richness  of 
the  country  in  fur-bearing  animals,  I  have  only  to  state  that  the 
small  experimental  party  sent  thither  in  December,  1825,  pur- 
chased from  the  natives  between  three  and  four  hundred  excel- 
lent beaver  skins. 

The  Indians  on  the  upper  part  of  Eraser's  River  are  divided 
into  various  tribes,  under  the  following  names :  viz. :  Slower- 
cuss,  Dinais,  Nascud,  Dinnee,  and  Talkotin.  They  are  evidently 
sprung  from  one  common  origin.  Their  manners  and  customs 
are  the  same  ;  and  there  is  no  variation  in  their  language,  which 
bears  a  close  affinity  to  that  spoken  by  the  Chcpewyans  and 
Beaver  Indians. 

Several  families  generally  club  together  and  build  a  house,  the 
size  of  which  is  proportioned  to  the  number  of  inhabitants,  and 
is  partitioned  off  into  several  divisions.  The  building  has  one 
long  ridge  pole,  which  in  several  places  is  uncovered,  for  the 
free  egress  of  t"he  smoke.  They  are  supremely  dirty  and  lazy, 
and  full  of  vermin,  which  they  take  great  pleasure  in  eating. 
They  never  bathe  or  wash  their  bodies,  which,  with  the  interior 
of  their  dwellings,  and  the  surrounding  neighbourhood,  present 
a  shockingly  repulsive  appearance  of  Hlthy  nastiness,  which  we 
never  observed  among  any  other  tribe.  When  reproached  with 
their  want  of  cleanliness  they  replied,  that  the  dirt  preserved 
them  from  the  intense  cold  of  winter,  and  protected  them  equally 
from  the  scorching  sun  of  summer ! 

The  women  are,  if  possible,  worse  than  the  men ;  and  when 
they  wish  to  appear  very  fine  they  saturate  their  hair  with  sal- 
mon oil,  after  which  it  is  powdered  over  with  the  down  of  birds, 
and  painted  with  red  ochre  mixed  with  oil.  Such  another  pre- 
paration for  the  head  is  certainly  not  used  by  any  other  portion 
of  his  majesty's  copper-coloured  subjects.  While  in  this  oleagi- 
nous state  they  are  quite  unapproachable  near  a  fire  ;  and  even 
the  voyageur,  whose  sense  of  smelling  is  not  over-refined,  can- 
not bring  his  nasal  organ  into  a  warm  apartment  with  one  of 
those  bedizened  beauties. 

It  is  quite  common  to  see  six  or  eight  of  the  men  during  the 
cummer,  while  their  wives  and  children  are  digging  roots  for 


% 

■m 


J 


IKDOLrafCB—OAMBUNO — ^raAiriNO. 


their  subsistence,  stretch  their  filthy  covering  on  branches,  and 
expose  their  naked  bodies  to  the  sun,  changing  their  position  as 
it  revolves  in  its  course. 

Independently  of  the  starvation  to  which  their  incurable 
indolence  su'.)Ject8  them,  it  also  entails  on  them  diseases  which 
often  prove  fatal  to  numbers  ;  and  asthma,  with  rheumatic  and 
pulmonary  complaints,  are  quite  common  among  them 

They  are  generally  about  the  middle  size,  and  few  of  them 
reach  to  the  height  of  five  feet  nine  inches.  Their  colour  is  a 
light  copper,  with  the  same  long  lank  hair  and  black  eyes  which 
distinguish  the  other  aborigines  of  America.  Their  features  are 
good,  and  were  it  not  for  ihe  barbarous  incrustation  which  sur- 
rounds them,  "light  be  called  prepossessing.  The  women  are 
stouter  than  the  men,  but  inferior  to  them  in  beauty.  Thedresi 
of  both  consists  of  a  robe  made  of  marmot,  or  rabbit  skin,  tied 
round  the  neck  und  reaching  to  the  knees,  with  a  small  slip  of 
leather  or  cloth  covering  underneath.  In  the  summer  nnonths 
the  men  dispense  even  with  this  slight  covering,  and  wander 
about  in  a  complete  state  of  nudity.  They  are  fond  of  European 
clothing  ;  and  such  of  them  as  were  enabled  to  purchase  a  coat, 
trousers,  and  shirt,  took  great  pride  in  appearing  in  them  at  the 
fort. 

They  are  much  addicted  to  gambling,  and  umpires  are  chosen 
to  see  that  each  party  plays  fairly ;  still  their  games  seldom  ter- 
minate without  a  quarrel.  They  will  gamble  their  guns,  robes, 
and  even  their  shoes.  One  of  them,  who  had  been  out  three 
months  on  a  hunting  excursioi;,  returned  with  a  large  lot  of 
prime  beaver,  with  which  he  intended  to  purchase  a  gun  for 
nimself,  and  other  articles  for  his  wife  and  children.  His  evil 
genius  induced  him  to  play  ;  and  in  a  short  time  he  lost  half  his 
stock.  He  then  desisted,  and  was  about  retiring  to  the  fort ; 
but  in  the  mean  time  several  of  the  gamblers  collected  about 
him,  and  upbraided  him  with  want  of  spirit.  His  resolution  was 
overcome,  and  he  recommenced  :  fortune  was  still  unpropitious, 
and  in  less  than  an  hour  he  lost  the  remainder  of  his  furs.  The 
following  day  he  came  to  us  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  and  having 
related  his  misfortune,  and  promised  never  to  run  so  great  a 
risk  again,  we  gave  him  goods  on  credit  to  the  amount  of  twenty 
beavers. 

They  are  fond  of  feasting,  and  on  particular  occasions  invite 
their  friends  from  villages  thirty  or  forty  miles  distant.  When 
the  entertainment  is  over,  the  guest  has  nothing  more  to  expect ; 
and  no  matter  how  long  he  may  remain,  there  is  no  renewal  of 
hospitality.  Gambling  is  carried  on  to  a  dreadful  extreme  at 
these  assemblages. 

Polygamy  is  practised,  but  it  is  not  very  general,  few  of  them 


m 


i  -^ 


r  t 

III 


iviciDE — «TARVATiow — iiminKANmr. 


395 


ichea,  and 
osition  u 

incurable 
968  which 
natic  and 
I 

r  of  them 
olour  is  a 
y^cs  which 
itures  are 
vhich  sur- 
omen  are 
The  dresi 
skin,  tied 
lall  slip  of 
r  n'onthi 
d  wander 
European 
ise  a  coat, 
em  at  the 

re  chosen 
ildom  ter- 
ns, robes, 
out  three 
"ge  lot  of 
a  ffun  for 
His  evil 
St  half  his 
the  fort; 
ted  about 
ution  was 
)ropitiou8, 
irs.  The 
id  having 
0  great  a 
of  twenty 

ons  invite 
t.  When 
o  expect ; 
enewal  of 
itreme  at 

V  of  them 


being  able  to  support  more  than  one  wife.  There  are  no  mar> 
riaffe  ceremonies.  The  choice  of  each  party  is  Icfl  unfettered ; 
and  it  frequently  happens  that  if  their  tempers  do  not  agree,  the 
union  is  dissolved  by  mutual  conticnt.  The  women  are  unfruit- 
ful, which  may  be  attributed  to  the  many  laborious  avocations 
to  which  they  are  condemned,  purticulurly  that  of  digging  for 
roots ;  and  abortions  are  also  i'rc(|ucnt  among  them. 

Prostitution  is  notoriously  practised  among  unmarried  females, 
and  is  productive  of  disease  to  a  deplorable  extent.  Few 
escape  the  consequences  resulting  from  this  general  depravity, 
and  many  fall  victims  to  it.  Leprosy  is  also  common  among 
the  young  people  of  both  sexes,  and  proceeds  from  the  same 
demoralising  cause.  Sickness  or  excessive  labour  produces  a 
depression  of  spirits  among  the  females,  many  of  whom  while  in 
that  state  commit  suicide.  We  saw  the  bodies  of  several  of 
these  wretched  beings  who  had  hanged  themselves  from  trees  in 
sequestered  parts  of  the  wood. 

Their  doctor,  or  man  of  medicine,  differs  little  from  the  same 
personage  on  the  Columbia,  except  that  the  profession  here  is 
rather  dangerous. 

The  same  mode  of  throwing  the  patient  on  his  back,  beating 
the  parts  affected,  singing  in  a  loud  voice  to  drown  his  cries, 
&c.  IS  practised  here  ;  but  in  the  event  of  his  death,  his  relatives 
generally  sacrifice  the  quack  or  some  one  of  his  connexions. 
This  summary  mode  of  punishment  is  admirably  calculated  to 
keep  the  profession  free  from  intruders ;  and  their  medical 
practitioners,  I  am  happy  to  state,  are  becoming  every  day  less 
numerous. 

The  affectionate  regard  for  friends  and  relatives  which,  more 
or  less,  characterizes  other  tribes,  appears  to  be  unknown  among 
these  savages.  A  few  instances,  which  came  under  our  per- 
gonal knowledge,  may  be  sufficient  to  prove  their  total  want  of 
all  the  finer  feelings  of  humanity. 

In  December,  1826,  an  elderly  man,  nearly  related  to  theTal- 
kotin  chief,  fell  short  of  provisions,  and  although  he  was  sur- 
rounded by  numbers  who  had  an  abundance  of  dried  salmon,  he 
was  actually  allowed  to  die  of  starvation  in  the  midst  of  plenty. 
The  day  after  his  death  the  corpse  was  burned,  and  no  one 
seemed  to  mourn  his  loss. 

One  night  during  the  same  winter  a  young  women,  nearly 
naked,  her  body  coveied  with  bruises,  and  dreadful'y  frost- 
bitten, cjime  to  the  fort,  and  begged  for  admission.  This  was 
readily  granted.  She  alleged  she  had  been  in  a  starving  condi- 
tion, and  had  asked  her  husband  for  a  little  dried  salmon,  which 
he  refused  to  give,  although  he  had  plenty  in  his  lodge ;  that  she 
watched  an  opportunity  during  his  absence   to  take  a  small 


:^l 


i,)i 


f 


lit 


l"{ 


{. 


"# 


J 


INHUMANITY INDIAN    CHARACTBR. 


I 


i'1 


piece,  which  he  discovered  her  in  the  act  of  eating ;  and  that 
without  any  other  cause  he  gave  her  a  dreadful  beating,  and 
then  turned  her  out,  decluriiig  she  should  no  longer  live 
with  him.  She  adiled,  tlint  all  her  friends  refused  her  assist- 
ance,  and  that  she  would  have  inevitably  perished  from  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather  but  for  the  protection  and  relief  v/e 
afforded  her.  During  her  narrative  her  uncle  entered,  and,  on 
learning  the  particulars,  he  declared  he  would  make  up  the 
quarrel ;  and  went  away,  promising  to  return  shortly  with  some 
rabbits.  With  much  difiiculty  we  succeeded  in  restoring  her 
to  health ;  but  neither  husband,  uncle,  nor  any  other  relation 
ever  after  troubled  us  with  inquiries  concerning  her,  and  she 
still  remains  at  the  fort  living  on  our  bounty. 

Another  instance,  and  I  shall  have  done:— In  January,  1827, 
two  stout  young  men,  brothers,  with  their  wives  and  children, 
and  a  gray-headed,  iniirm  old  man,  their  father,  encamped  for  a 
few  days  close  to  the  fort. 

Late  in  the  evening  of  the  second  day  after  their  departure  we 
were  surprised  at  seeing  the  unfortunate  old  man  crawling 
towards  the  house,  ond  crying  out  piteously  for  "  fire  and  saU 
mon."  His  hands  and  feet  were  frost-bitten,  and  he  was 
scarcely  able  to  move.  A  piece  of  salmon  and  a  glass  oT  rum 
quickly  revived  him,  when  he  told  us  that  on  that  morning  his 
sons  abandoned  him  at  the  place  they  had  slept  at  the  night 
before,  and,  on  going  away,  told  him  he  might  take  care  of  him- 
self as  well  as  he  could,  as  they  would  not  any  longer  be  on- 
cumbered  with  him ! 

These  cases  establish  a  degree  of  barbarism  I  believe  unpar- 
alleled in  any  country ;  and  1  know  of  no  redeeming  feature  to 
counterbalance  them.  We  have  repeatedly  afforded  relief  to 
numbers  who  were  dying  from  starvation  or  disease,  and  who, 
but  for  our  assistance,  would  have  perished  ;  yet  ingratitude  is 
so  strongly  implanted  in  their  savi  nature,  that  these  very  in- 
dividuals, in  periods  of  plenty,  hrve  been  the  first  to  prevent  us 
from  taking  a  salmon ;  and  whenever  a  dispute  or  misunder- 
standing arose  between  our  people  and  the  natives,  these  scoun- 
drels have  been  seen  brandishing  their  weapons  and  urging  their 
countrymen  to  exterminate  us. 

They  are  also  incorrigible  thieves  and  liars.  No  chexmlier 
dUndustrie  could  excel  them  in  skilful  operations ;  and  it  re- 
quired our  utmost  vigilance  to  guard  against  their  felonious  pro- 
pensities :  while  their  disregard  of  truth  is  so  glaring,  that  we 
nave  actually  heard  them  contradict  facts  of  which  we  ourselves 
had  been  eyewitnesses. 

During  the  severity  of  winter  they  make  excavations  in  the 
ground  sufficiently  capacious  to  contain  a  number  of  persons ; 


ll  . 


Wh 


and  that 
ting,  and 
i^or  live 
icr  assist* 
rr<im  the 
relief  we 
,  and,  on 
0  up  the 
'ith  some 
)rinff  her 
■  remtion 
,  and  she 

ry,  1827, 

children, 
ped  for  a 

irture  we 
crawlinff 
and  sal- 
he  was 
IS  oT  rum 
rning  his 
the  night 
e  of  him- 
jr  be  en- 

fc  unpar- 
cature  to 
relief  to 
and  who, 
atitude  is 
5  very  in- 
revent  us 
nisunder- 
se  scoun- 
ging  their 

chevalier 
nd  it  re- 
lious  pro- 
\,  that  we 
ourselves 

)ns  in  the 
persons ; 


A    SAVACiU    TRIUMPH — WAK-DANCE. 


397 


and  in  these  holes  they  burrow  until  the  warm  weather  once  more 
permits  them  to  vunlure  nbovu  ground.  They  preserve  their 
dry  salmon  rolled  up  in  biiNkrln  o(  birch  burk,  in  holes  of  a  simi- 
lar description,  but  HOHDnvhut  Hmullcr.  The  Mmell  from  these 
■ubtcrranenn  dwoilitigs  wliilc  thus  occupied  is  horribly  otTensivo, 
and  no  white  man  could  Htiuid  within  itn  influence.  Men, 
women,  and  children,  duga,  tleas,  dec.  all  live  together  in  this 
filthy  state. 

It  has  been  already  montioied,  that  in  the  battle  of  Septem- 
ber, 18*27,  they  killed  houio  (^hilcotins  u!id  took  others  prisoners. 
Their  treatment  of  both  dotid  und  living  was  in  perfect  accord- 
ance with  their  general  churactcr.  After  having  taken  off  the 
scalps,  they  raised  the  bodies  of  the  deceased  on  stuuips  of  trees, 
and  exhibited  them  to  the  Atnuhs,  a  band  of  whom  had  been 
specially  invited  to  witness  these  trophies  of  (heir  valour.  One 
would  then  plunge  his  knife  into  the  corpse,  u  second  hack  the 
skull  with  his  axe,  ond  u  third  pcrforntc  the  body  with  arrows. 
Women  and  children  equally  participated  in  this  savage  amuse- 
ment, and  all  washed  their  hands  and  faces  in  the  blood  of  their 
victims,  which  they  did  not  remove  until  it  dried  and  fell  off. 

Among  the  prisoners  was  one  woman  with  a  child  at  her 
breast.  A  Talkotin  rufKan  instantly  cut  its  throat,  and,  holding 
the  infant  on  the  point  of  his  knife,  asked  the  mother,  with  a 
degree  of  horrible  exultation,  if  it  "  smelt  good."  She  re- 
plied, "  No."  He  repeated  the  question,  but  still  received  the 
same  answer.  Irritated  at  her  obstinacy,  he  seized  her  vio- 
lently by  the  neck,  and  asked  her  the  third  time  if  it  "  smelt 
good."  The  wretched  woman,  knowing  that  death  awaited  her, 
m  the  event  of  another  refusal,  al  length  faltered  out  an 
affirmative.  *'  Is  it  very  good  ?"  repeated  the  savage.  "  Yes," 
she  replied,  "  very  good ;"  upon  which,  flinging  her  from  him, 
and  dashing  the  lifeless  remains  of  her  infant  on  the  ground,  he 
walked  away.  ',  ;• 

The  war-dance  next  commenced ;  and  the  unfortunate  prison- 
ers were  introduced  into  the  middle  of  the  circle,  and  compelled 
to  join  in  the  dancing  and  singing,  while  at  intervals  their  inhu- 
man conquerors  displayed  the  scalps  of  their  fathers,  brothers, 
or  husbands,  and  rubbing  them  across  their  faces,  asked  with 
ferocious  joy  if  they  "  snielled  good  ?" 

We  endeavoured  to  purchase  some  young  children  which  were 
among  the  captives,  with  a  view  of  returning  them  to  their 
friends ;  but  they  refused  all  ou»*  offers.  They  however  pro- 
mised that  none  of  them  should  be  injured ;  but  their  habitual 
perfidy  was  manifested  in  this  as  in  all  their  other  transactions ; 
for  we  learned  that  on  the  same  night  a  child  was  killed  and  the 
body  burned ;  a  few  days  afterward  another  was  thrown  alive 


/y. 


'ipi 


328 


DOMESTIC   QVAnRELS FUNERAL   CEREMONIES. 


t 

V 


I 


? 


into  a  large  fire,  and  consunned  ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  winter 
our  people  discovered  the  remains  of  three  others,  with  scarcely 
any  flesh  on  their  bones ;  and  we  had  good  reason  to  believe 
they  had  been  starved  to  death. 

Inhumanity  to  prisoners,  however,  is  a  vice  which  these  In- 
dians practise  in  common  with  all  the  savage  tribes  of  America  ; 
but  in  their  domestic  quarrels  the  Talkotins  evince  the  same 
brutal  and  sanguinary  disposition;  a  remarkable  instance  of 
which  occurred  in  the  year  1826.  A  young  man,  who  had 
killed  a  rein-deer,  determined  to  give  a  treat  to  his  friends,  and 
having  concealed  it,  as  he  thought,  in  a  place  of  security,  pro- 
ceeded to  the  various  dwellings  for  the  purpose  of  inviting  them 
to  the  feast.  In  the  interim,  however,  some  of  the  tribe  dis- 
covered the  hidden  treasure,  the  greater  part  of  which  they 
made  away  with.  He  became  highly  exasperated  at  his  disap- 
pointment, and  in  his  passion  slew  one  man  whom  he  found 
sitting  at  a  fire  broiling  part  of  the  animal.  The  friends  of  the 
deceased  instantly  armed  themselves,  and  having  surrounded  the 
lodge  in  which  the  owner  of  the  deer  resided,  butchered  all  his 
relations,  amounting  to  seven  individuals.  lie  however  escaped, 
and  being  a  person  of  some  influence,  quickly  collected  a  num- 
ber of  his  friends,  determined  on  revenge ;  but  the  murderers 
in  the  mean  time  fled  to  the  mountains,  where  they  have  lurked 
about  ever  since,  occasionally  obtaining  relief  by  stealth  either 
from  our  people  or  from  some  of  their  own  countrymen. 

Since  the  battle  of  Sej)tember,  1827,  the  Talkotins  have,  as  a 
measure  of  security,  established  their  village  within  pistol-shot 
of  our  fort.  They  are  by  no  means  pleasant  neighbours.  They 
are  in  a  constant  state  of  apprehension  from  the  Chilcotins,  and 
pass  the  nights  up  to  two  or  three  o'clock  each  morning  singing,  » 
screaming,  and  howling  in  a  most  disagreeable  manner,  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  sleep.  The  slightest  rustling  in  the  branches, 
or  the  barking  of  a  dog,  turns  out  the  whole  population  ;  and  if  a 
strange  Indian  appears,  he  is  immediately  magnifled  into  a  host 
of  warriors,  coming  to  destroy  both  them  and  the  white  men. 

The  ceremonies  attending  the  dead  are  very  singular,  and 
quite  peculiar  to  this  tribe.  The  body  of  the  deceased  is  kept 
nine  days  laid  out  in  his  lodge,  and  on  the  tenth  it  is  burned. 
For  this  purpose  a  rising  ground  is  selected,  on  which  are  laid  a 
number  of  sticks,  about  seven  feet  long,  of  cypress  neatly  split, 
and  in  the  interstices  is  placed  a  quantity  of  gummy  wood. 
During  these  operations  invitations  are  despatched  to  the  natives 
of  the  neighbouring  villages,  requesting  their  attendance  at  the 
ceremony ;  when  the  preparations  are  perfected,  the  corpse  is 
placed  on  the  pile,  which  is  immediately  ignited,  and  during  the 
process  of  burning  the  by-standers  appear  to  be  in  a  high  state 


i!i 


I  \ 


.^■^• 


BURNING   OP   THE   DEAD— WIDOWHOOD. 


339 


he  winter 
I  scarcely 

0  believe 

these  In- 
America ; 
the  same 
stance  of 
who  had 
ends,  and 
irity,  pro- 
iting  tliem 
tribe  dis- 
hich  they 
his  disap- 
he  found 
ids  of  the 
unded  the 
red  all  his 
r  escaped, 
ed  a  num- 
murderers 
ive  lurked 
ilth  either 
len. 

have,  as  a 
pistol-shot 
irs.  They 
;otins,  and 
ig  singing, 
ler.  It  is 
branches, 
;  and  if  a 
nto  a  host 
ite  men. 
gular,  and 
ed  is  kept 
is  burned. 

1  are  laid  a 
eatly  split, 
my  wood, 
the  natives 
ice  at  the 

corpse  is 

during  the 

high  Btate 


of  merriment.  If  a  stranger  happen  to  be  present  they  inva* 
riably  plunder  him  ;  but  it  that  pleasure  be  denied  them,  they 
never  separate  without  quarrelling  among  themselves.  What- 
ever property  the  deceased  possessed  is  placed  about  the  corpse ; 
and  if  he  happened  to  be  a  person  of  consequence,  his  friends 
generally  purchase  a  capot,  a  shirt,  a  pair  of  trousers,  &c., 
which  articles  are  also  laid  round  the  pile.  If  the  doctor  who 
attended  him  has  escaped  uninjured,  he  is  obliged  to  be  present 
at  the  ceremony,  and  for  the  last  time  tries  his  skill  in  restoring 
the  defunct  to  animation.  Failing  in  this,  he  throws  on  the  body 
a  piece  of  leather,  or  some  other  article,  as  a  present,  which  in 
some  measure  appeases  the  resentment  of  his  relations,  and  pre- 
serves the  unfortunate  quack  from  being  maltreated.  During 
the  nine  days  the  corpse  is  laid  out,  the  widow  of  the  deceased 
is  obliged  to  sleep  alongside  it  from  sunset  to  sunrise  ;  and  from 
this  custom  there  is  no  relaxation,  even  during  the  hottest  days 
of  summer !  While  the  doctor  is  performing  his  last  operation 
she  must  lie  on  the  \  le  ;  and  after  the  fire  is  applied  to  it,  she 
cannot  stir  until  the  doctor  orders  her  to  be  removed  ;  which, 
however,  is  never  done  until  her  body  is  completely  covered 
with  blisters.  Afler  being  placed  on  her  legs,  she  is  obliged  to 
pass  her  hands  gently  through  the  flames,  and  collect  some  of  the 
liquid  fat  which  issues  from  the  corpse,  with  which  she  is  per- 
mitted to  rub  her  face  and  body  !  When  the  friends  of  the 
deceased  observe  the  sinews  of  the  legs  and  arms  beginning  to 
contract,  they  compel  the  unfortunate  widow  to  go  again  on  the 
pile,  and  by  dint  of  hard  pressing  to  straighten  those  members. 

If  during  her  husband's  lifetime  she  had  been  known  to  have 
committed  any  act  of  infidelity,  or  omitted  administering  to  him 
savoury  food,  or  neglected  his  clothing,  &c.,  she  is  now  made  to 
suffer  severely  for  such  lapse  of  duty  by  his  relations,  who  fre- 
quently fling  her  on  the  funeral  pile,  from  which  she  is  dragged 
by  her  friends ;  and  thus,  between  alternate  scorching  and  coohng, 
she  is  dragged  backwards  and  forwards  until  she  falls  into  a 
state  of  insensibility. 

Afler  the  process  of  burning  the  corpse  has  terminated  the 
widow  collects  the  larger  bones,  which  she  rolls  up  in  an  enve- 
lope of  birch  bark,  and  which  she  is  obliged  for  some  years  afler- 
ward  to  carry  on  her  back  !  She  is  now  considered  and  treated 
as  a  slave ;  all  the  laborious  duties  of  cooking,  collecting  fuel, 
&CC.  devolve  on  her.  She  must  obey  the  orders  of  all  the  wo- 
men, and  even  of  the  children  belonging  to  the  village,  and  the 
slightest  mistake  or  disobedience  subjects  her  to  the  infliction  of 
a  heavy  punishment.  The  ashes  of  her  husband  are  carefully 
collected  and  deposited  in  a  grave,  which  it  is  her  duty  to  keep 
free  from  weeds ;  and  should  any  such  appear,  she  is  obliged  to 

S  s 


'% 


I   >• 


330 


CONCLV8IOIV. 


root  them  out  with  her  fingers  I  During  this  operation  her  hus« 
band's  relatives  stand  by  and  beat  her  in  a  cruel  manner  until 
the  task  is  completed,  or  she  falls  a  victim  to  their  brutality. 
The  wretched  widows,  to  avoid  this  complicated  cruelty,  fre- 
quently commit  suicide.  Should  she,  however,  linger  on  for 
three  or  four  years,  the  friends  of  her  husband  agree  to  relieve 
her  from  her  painful  mourning.  This  is  a  ceremony  of  much 
consequence,  and  the  preparations  for  it  occupy  a  considerable 
time,  generally  from  six  to  eight  months.  The  hunters  proceed 
to  the  various  districts  in  which  deer  and  beaver  abound,  and 
after  collecting  large  quantities  of  meat  and  fur,  return  to  the  vil- 
lage. The  skins  are  immediately  bartered  for  guns,  ammunition, 
clothing,  trinkets,  &c.  Invitations  are  then  sent  to  the  inhabit- 
ants of  the  various  friendly  villages,  and  when  they  have  all 
assembled  the  feast  commences,  and  presents  are  distributed  to 
each  visiter.  The  object  of  their  meeting  is  then  explained,  and 
the  woman  is  brought  forward,  still  carrying  on  her  back  the 
bones  of  her  late  husband,  which  are  now  removed,  and  placed 
in  a  carved  box,  which  is  nailed  or  otherwise  fastened  to  a  post 
twelve  feet  high.  Her  conduct  as  a  faithful  widow  is  next  highly 
eulogized,  and  the  ceremony  of  her  manumission  is  completed 
by  one  man  powdering  on  her  head  the  down  of  birds,  and 
another  pouring  on  it  the  contents  of  a  bladder  of  oil !  She  ig 
then  at  liberty  to  marry  again,  or  lead  a  life  of  single  blessed- 
ness ;  but  few  of  them,  1  believe,  wish  to  encounter  the  risk 
attending  a  second  widowhood. 

The  men  are  condemned  to  a  similar  ordeal ;  but  they  do  not 
bear  it  with  equal  fortitude ;  and  numbers  fly  to  distant  quarters 
to  avoid  the  brutal  treatment  which  custom  has  established  as  a 
kind  of  religious  rite. 

Mr.  M'GilIivray  here  concludes  his  remarks  on  the  various 
tribes  about  Eraser's  River  by  a  table,  which  he  formed  from 
the  most  authentic  sources  of  information,  and  which  will  show 
their  relative  numbers  of  married  and  unmarried  men,  women, 
&c. 


''■'*'*• 


v.«?-.. 


331 


■*' 


■<*■;■ 


n  her  hath 
nner  until 

brutality, 
uelty,  fre- 
er on  for 
to  relieve 

of  much 
nsiderable 
's  proceed 
ound,  and 
to  the  vil- 
nmunition, 
le  inhabit- 

have  all 
tributcd  to 
ained,  and 

back  the 
ind  placed 
1  to  a  post 
lext  highly 
completed 
birds,  and 
She  is 
blessed^ 

the  risk 


hey  do  not 
nt  quarters 
ilished  as  a 

:he  various 
•med  from 
I  will  show 
in,  women, 


{  : 

•I 


*  ft  "  -^ 

S^  i  e.S 

S  e  E  0  a 

S;  o  2  I.  5 

o  *"  S  s  ♦! 


/.       '^ 


iv/^; — 


.4SU> 


Ki^  a 


«^i 


•^&. 


If* 


.,■*- 


^     '«^.' 


<"       -'■    -SI  J 


*1* 


'^PP" 


^1*    :■ 


^ 


•tt 


■J% 


^     ■*■- 


, 


I   i 


'•V 


% 


^ 


ig^'>  ■ 


II 


*fe 


% 


*% 


e^''    *. 


t      *t.. 


*- 


APPENDIX. 


^ 


Extract  of  a  letter  from  the  Interior,  dated  July,  1839. 

The  intelligence  from  this  country  is  by  no  meant  of  a  pleasant 
nature.  The  number  of  lives  lost  last  winter  is  incredible,  particularly 
in  your  old  department,  the  Columbia. 

The  Company's  ship,  after  a  tolerably  quick  passai^e  from  England, 
was  lost  on  the  bar,  and  the  entire  crew,  twenty-six  in  number,  were 
inhumanly  butchered  by  the  Clatsops. 

Your  friend  Ogder.  in  a  hunting  excursion,  was  attacked  by  a  party 
of  the  Black-feet,  whc  killed  four  of  his  men '  and  six  of  the  people 
stationed  at  New  Caledonia  were  murdered  by  the  Carriers  during  the 
winter. 

Two  American  parties,  under  the  command  of  Messrs.  ^tmith  and 
Tulloch,  were  completely  cut  off;  not  a  soul  escaped ;  and  property  to 
a  considerable  amount  ftll  into  the  hands  of  the  savages. 

These  misfortunes  have  considerably  weakened  our  influence  With 
the  Indians  on  the  Columbia,  whose  behaviour,  in  consequence,  has  be« 
come  very  bold  and  daring,  and  we  greatly  fear  the  ensuing  winter 
may  be  productive  of  more  disasters. 

We  shaii  have  much  difficulty  in  filling  up  the  appointments  for  that 
district  next  spring ;  in  fact,  symptoms  of  rebellion  have  already  begun 
to  manifest  themselves,  and  several  of  our  gentlemen  have  been  heard 
to  declare,  that  in  the  event  of  their  being  nominated  to  the  Columbia, 
they  will  retire  from  the  service  sooner  than  risk  their  lives  among  iu6h 
sanguinary  barbarians. — God  speed  them !  I  say.  Numbers  of  them 
have  been  long  enough  enjoying  idleness  and  luxury  on  the  east  side 
of  the  mountains,  and  it  is  only  »ir  they  should  experience  some  of  our 
Columbian  privations.— I  have  had  my  full  share  of  them,  and  am  there- 
fore under  no  apprehensions  of  being  ordered  there  in  a  hurry. 

Extract  of  another  letter. 

In  your  last  you  expressed  a  wish  to  know  the  population  of  the  new 
colony  at  the  Red  River,  and  how  they  are  getting  on.  I  have  not  been 
there  lately,  but  I  enclose  you  the  last  census  taken  about  two  years 
ago,  since  whiich  period  it  has  scarcely  increased.  Besides  men,  women, 
boys,  and  girls,  I  give  you  a  list  of  the  most  useful  animals  in  pos- 
session of  the  settlers,  in  order  that  my  statistics  may  be  perfect  so  far 
as  regards  the  animal  world. 

189  married  men. 
37  unmarried  do. 
*  193  married  women  and  widows. 

96  young  women. 
237  girls. 

90  young  men.  ^ 
210  boys. 


ii 


1052  souls. 


((*»" 


1*' 


V' 


\ 


-.»   ,1 


^1 


i^hl  l»»'lTT-r- 


*• 


r 

^ 


41 

It 


W'- 


'l    'J? 


r 


■•i,-^ 


334 


▲VPBlfDIX- 


33  bania. 
164  horses. 
27  bulls. 
76  oxen. 
20  swine. 
31  ploughs. 
13  boats. 


^.  178  houiei 

'  .  126  stables 

87  mares 
'  295  cows 

*  l     i  147  calves       » 

.  **  96  carts 

39  harrowi 
173  canoes 
There  are  67'J J  acres  of  Ian  1  in  a  state  of  cultivation ;  144,105  acres 
of  prairie,  and  21,901  acres  cf  woodland.    The  total  extent  of  lands 
measured  amounts  to  170,135  acres  3  roods. 

The  population  would  have  been  double  the  above  number  were  it  not 
for  the  falling  off  of  the  Swiss  and  the  De  Meurons,*  most  of  whom  have 
abandoned  the  colony,  and  proceeded  to  St.  Louis  and  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  their  pieces  have  not  been  svpplied  by  any  fresh  arri- 
vals from  England. 

I       Extract  of  a  letter  from  Churchill,  or  Prince  of  Wales'  Fort,  1829. 

After  spending  several  years  among  our  new  establishments  on  the 
north-west  side  of  this  great  continent,  behold  me  now  in  one  of  our 
most  anciijut  settlements  on  the  nortli-east  side.  Any  thing  in  the 
shape  of  antiquity  is  a  novelty  in  the  pays  saucns^e ;  and  as  I  know  you 
are  fond  of  novelty,  I  must  q've  you  a  sketch  ol  this  redoubtable  for- 
tress. Churchill  was  erected  in  1733,  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr. 
James  Robson,  chief  arch'teot  to  the  Hudson's-Bay  Company.  It  was 
well  fortified  with  a  ravelioe  and  four  bastions,  and  the  walls  measure 
twenty-seven  feet  in  breaclth.  Forty  pieces  of  cannon  were  mounted 
on  the  wails:  in  fact,  the  place  was  dv  emed  impregnable:  yet,  notwith- 
standing all  this  apparent  strength,  it  was  captured  by  La  Peyrouse, 
without  any  trouble,  and  nearly  all  razed  to  the  ground.  Had  the  Corn- 
pany's  servants  done  their  duty  at  the  time,  they  might  have  bid  defi- 
ance to  any  force ;  but  de  mortuis  nil,  &c.  About  the  fort  are  now  to  be 
seen  decayed  carriages  without  guns,  rust-eaten  guns  without  carriages, 
groups  of  unappropriated  balls  of  various  caliber,  broken  down  walls, 
and  dilapidated  stores.  The  governor's  old  house  is  the  only  place  any 
way  inhabitable;  and  even  it  will  require  immense  repairs  to  make  it 
tolerably  tenantable.  I  assure  you  I  would  prefer  residing  in  one  of 
our  snug  square-built  little  boxes  on  the  Columbia  to  this  melancholy 
remnant  of  departed  greatness. 

The  following  names  are  cut  out  in  large  characters  in  the  wall  in 
front  of  the  fort :  Richakd  Norton,  1752 ;  Guilford  Long  of  Rother- 
HiTHe,  1754 ;  John  Newton,  1752.t 

In  the  year  1800  Mr.  Atkinson  found  the  following  inscription  writ- 
ten in  a  pi<^ce  of  cedar-wood,  about  a  foot  square  and  five  feet  above  the 
ground,  on  Old  l^actory  Island  in  James's  Bay,  about  thirty  miles  to  the 
northward  of  East  Main  Factory.    All  the  letters  were  quite  visible. 

"  In  the  year  1692  wintered  three  ships  at  this  island,  with  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-seven  men,  under  the  government  of  Captain  James 
Knight.    Then  we  erected  this  monument  in  remembrance  of  it." 

Three  different  tribe?  occasionally  visit  us.  They  belong  to  the  Crees, 
Chepewyans,  and  the  Esquimaux,  and  we  purchase  from  them  beaver, 

*De  Mmron's  regiment  wm  diBbnnded  In  Canada  at  the  lain  neaee.  and  niuiben  of  tbe  men 
proceeded  tn  Lord  Selkirk's  colony  at  the  Red  River.  '  .. ' 

t  Churchill  ii  in  lat.  see  44' N.,  nnd  long,  QSO  30' W.  • 


'^::^ 


^w 


S4»» 


f 


m 


■ft- 


K 


m 


% 


4W 


^ 


APPENDIX. 


w 


otter,  marten,  red,  silver,  and  white  foxes,  &c.  The  Crees  who  have 
visited  us  have  never  exceeded  twelve  men,  }'oung  and  old.  The  Chep- 
ewyans  vary  considerably  in  their  numbers.  From  twenty  to  fifty  oc- 
casionally come,  and  the  total  number  who  have  visited  the  fort  does 
not  exceed  one  hundred.  Our  Esquimaux  customers  reside  at  and' 
about  Chesterfield  Inlet.  They  do  not  muster  more  than  one  hundred 
and  twenty  full-grown  men,  about  forty  of  whom  visit  us  annually. 
They  are  all  quiet,  well-behaved  people,  and  tolerably  honest. 

i^ bout  two-thirds  of  our  provisions  consists  of  country  produce ;  the 
remaining  one-third,  namely,  flour  and  oatmeal,  we  procure  from  Etif^' 
land.  Among  the  former  we  have  fresh  and  salt  geese,  partridges,  veni- 
son, and  fish.  The  geese  are  principally  procured  in  the  spring  from 
the  Crees  and  Chepewyans,  and  numbers  are  salted  by  our  i)eople.  The 
latter  tribe  chiefly  supply  us  wiUi  the  venison,  which  they  bring  in  a  b^f- 
dried  state,  nearl}-  a  distance  of  seventeen  days'  march.  During  the 
summer  season  we  occasionally  kill  a  chance  deer.  In  the  winter  we 
are  well  supplied  with  partridges,  the  chief  part  of  which  our  men  take 
in  nets. 

Our  principal  fish  is  the  salmon  and  jack-fish :  the  former  is  taken 
during  the  summer  season  in  nets  at  a  place  called  Cuckold's  Point, 
between  two  and  three  miles  from  the  fort ;  and  the  jack  is  taken  in 
October  and  November  at  Deer's  River,  distant  about  twenty-five  miles 
from  Churchill.    Neither  however  is  plentiful. 

It  was  from  this  place  that  Heame  set  out  on  his  Arctic  Ocean  hunt- 
ing expedition ;  and  as  I  think  he  says  enough  about  the  climate,  soil, 
productions,  &c.,  I  shall  not  tire  you  by  alluding  to  these  subjects.  Suf- 
fice it  to  say,  that  Churchill  is  a  rascally,  disagreeable,  cold,  unsocial, 
out-of-the-way,  melancholy  spot, — and  1  don't  care  how  soon  I  am 
changed.  No  hunting,  horse-racing,  or  any  other  of  the  sports  which' 
we  enjoyed  on  the  Columbia,  which  I  once  thought  bad  enough :  but, 
talking  of  Indian  trading  posts,  I  may  truly  say,  "  bad  is  the  best." 
So,  wishing  you  all  manner  of  good  things,  with  plenty  of  white  boyt^ 
and  abundance  to  feed  them, I  remain  ton  tendre  ami  dlamort. 


J*     ,. 


\: 


^ 


THB    KlfD. 


^r* 


5  ■'■  *  * 


t" 


J:''' 


4* 


ti: 


.^    -K 


V-.jc.'  ''■  ■,■'*'    ^  ~4i 


